SOUTHERN FRANCE

This is Provence, a region abounding with delicious and delightful pale rosés which have just got better and better over the last dozen years. We are very delighted to work with both Château Leoube in Bormes-les-Mimosas, an immaculate organic estate set in an amazing landscape producing wines of such silkiness and such appeal that they are impossible to resist! Some rather good red is also made and is well worth a try. Equally irresistible and even paler in colour are the sublime roses made at Domaine de Jale by family Seminel; an estate I have known and worked with now for 12 years, and indeed drink myself in substantial volume!

Beyond Provence and to the West are many small and intriguing appellations including Bandol where there are some fabulous reds including Domaine Tempier and Château Pibarnon, all crafted from Mourvèdre. Some good rosé, too, but a little fuller in flavour than the neighbouring Provençal wines.

The main and largest expanse of vineyard is the Languedoc-Roussillon, which stretches from the southern Rhône across to the Spanish border, and produces close to 30% of all French wines, meaning volumes bigger than all of Australia and 3 times that of Bordeaux! Wines made here are often sold under the “vin de pays d’Oc” appellation, and more often than not will feature the grape variety prominently on the label, and so in many ways are easier to understand. Look out for Picpoul de Pinet white, some very good Chardonnay and Sauvignon and for red - Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet, Grenache all work really well.

There is one rather wonderful wine, which has often been described as the “Lafite of the Languedoc” called Mas de Daumas Gassac, which we have long bought and is well worth enjoying; equally Domaine de Trevallon near to the beautiful village of St. Rémy de Provence is well worth looking out for.

Julian Chamberlen

SOUTHERN FRANCE

CLASSIC GRAPE VARIETALS

Syrah, Grenache, Carignan, Mouvedre and Cinsault

FAVOURITE PRODUCERS

Tempier, Mas de Daumas Gassac, Domaine de Jale, Pibarnon and Leoube

MEET THE GROWER Mas de Daumas Gassac

LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON

Founded in 1974 by the Daumas family, this estate is referred to as the “Lafite of the Languedoc”. It is truly a unique offering, making not only spectacular red wines based on Cabernet Sauvignon, with a great ability to age, but also a tiny amount of white wine, from an eclectic blend of Chardonnay, Viognier, Petit Manseng, Marsanne, Rousanne and Chenin Blanc, which drinks wonderfully when young and then metamorphoses into something extraordinary with age. Wines are all made with total respect to nature and are great fun to include in “blind tastings” as they are sure to excite debate.

GASSAC ROUGE

MAS DE DAUMAS 2018

DRINK 2022 - 2038

6x75 £170

12x37.5 £175

3x150 £175

1x300 £130

A lovely dense colour, purpley red, the nose is delightfully engaging, fragrant and lifted, really pure. Some red and black fruit intermingled with spice, lavender and thyme. On the palate there are moderate tannins supported by very healthy fruit, strawberry, raspberry and cassis, real freshness and energy, juiciness too. I think this will drink soon but enjoy a long life.

MEET THE GROWER

Domaine de Jale

Domaine de Jale sits inland on the road to

Vidauban and is punctuated by outcrops of granite. Anne Seminel and her husband Dimitri manage every detail under the watchful eye of François Seminel, although he still finds time to pursue his passion for live music! Wild herbs including fennel, lavender and rosemary are found in the vineyard, and provide a subtle reference to the wines; indeed, the cuvée we ship is titled Les Fenouils, reflecting the fennel found there. A little white Vermentino is blended with the Grenache, Syrah and

Mouvèdre. These wines are super pure, and Anne is a major believer in “debourbage,” a process which allows the sediment to settle in the tanks over a couple of hours, prior to fermentation, following which the wine is racked off, and is therefore super clean and pure. These wines are electrifyingly pure, bright and expressive and modest in alcohol too. We are delighted to be their UK importer.

MEET THE GROWER

Château Léoube

Château Léoube’s magnificent organic estate sits in the midst of a national park which abuts the Mediterranean in Bormes-les-Mimosas. Wines are meticulously made by Romain Ott, whose family own the neighbouring estate of Domaine Ott. Principally they make exquisite dry roses: Rosé de Léoube, Le Secret de Léoube, and La Londe. The defining character of these wines is the silky texture, and purity of flavour. They are super fine, and really leave one feeling invigorated, such is their purity and authenticity. Magnums, Double magnums and Imperials are all produced, and for me a double magnum (3 litres) is the perfect vessel to enjoy the wine in!

CÔTES DE PROVENCE ROSÉ, CUVÉE LES FENOUILS

DOMAINE DE JALE 2019

DRINK 2020 - 2022

6x75 £55.61

Our classic and superb Provence rosé. Piercingly pale, highly concentrated nose. Ripe lemon pith, fennel seed - as the name suggests, wild strawberry and melon fruit. Citrus, orange peel and blossom with a wonderful, long and fresh finish. Only 12.5% abv and extremely more-ish.

ROSÉ DE LÉOUBE

CHÂTEAU LÉOUBE 2019

DRINK 2020 - 2023

6x75 £71.61

Very pale, bright and alluring in the glass. The nose instantly offers up delicate orange peel, grapefruit, citrus and chamomile underpinned by subtle red berry notes. The palate is refined and pure with lovely volume of silky fruit; summer berries in a glass. Dry and organic this is excellent.

The Languedoc is a diamond in the rough and continues to be an incredible source of highquality wines, as well as terrific values.

—JEB DUNNUCK

RECIPE

Salade Niçoise

FOR THE SALAD

• 450g/1lb fresh tuna, cut 1in thick

• 8 new potatoes, cooked and quartered lengthways • 4 plum tomatoes, roughly chopped • 115g extra fine French beans, topped, cooked and drained • 4 little gem lettuce hearts, quartered lengthways • 1 red onion, finely sliced • 4 eggs, cooked for 6 minutes in boiling water from room temperature, halved • 6 anchovy fillets cut lengthways into thin strips • 16 pitted black olives in brine • 8 basil leaves, ripped

METHOD

1. To make the dressing or marinade whisk together the red wine vinegar, olive oil, parsley, chives, garlic, salt and pepper.

2. Place the tuna in a shallow dish and pour over half of the dressing.

Cover and chill for 1-2 hours to allow the fish to marinate. Toss in the marinade from time to time.

3. Heat a ridged griddle pan on the hob or a hot barbecue for 5 minutes. Remove the tuna from the marinade. Cook the tuna steaks for 2-3 minutes on each side, depending on how rare you like your fish.

4. Lay the lettuce leaves onto a large plate and add the lettuce, onion, tomatoes, potato, tuna, beans and anchovies. Drizzle over the remaining dressing then finish by adding the eggs, olives and ripped basil leaves.

FOR THE DRESSING

• 7tbsp extra virgin olive oil • 3 tbsp aged red wine vinegar • 2 tbsp freshly chopped parsley • 2 tbsp freshly snipped chives • 2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped • 1 tsp salt • 1 tsp ground black pepper

TRAVEL TIPS

Travel to Southern France

The south of France conjures up images of endless beaches lapped by the Mediterranean, and indeed it is one of life’s great pleasures to spend a long lazy lunch at Cap 21 on Pampelonne beach, or west to La Croix Valmer and to a very cool restaurant on the water called Couleurs Jardin. If as can happen there is some Mistral or an overcast day, make your way to Auberge de La Môle, sited in an old petrol station, and indeed with a private landing strip nearby. Here you will enjoy an indulgence of foie gras and local gastronomy, coupled with an excellent wine list.

If you have a boat head over to Porquerolles, visit an impressive collection of Impressionist art in the main square, and choose an ice cream from at least 50 enticing flavours offered. If you are feeling energetic you can hire a bike and explore the island. Back towards Cannes is the small island of St. Marguerite on which is found La Guerite restaurant. Now this is serious party time; get your dancing shoes on, as come 3 pm the DJ will crank up the volume and the whole place becomes a dancing, champagne spraying, glorious scene. Unforgettable!

If you happen to be travelling near Aix-en-Provence, we recommend a stop at the exceptional table of Restaurant Dan B. in Ventabren – amazing food and a spectacular view.

Julian Chamberlen Notable places

CAP 21

42 Boulevard Patch, 83350 Ramatuelle, France

www.cap21beach.com

AUBERGE DE LA MÔLE

Place de l’Église, 83310 La Mole, France

RESTAURANT DAN B

1 Rue Frédéric Mistral, 13122 Ventabren, France

www.danb.fr/en

LA GUERITE

Île Sainte-Marguerite, 06400 Cannes, France

www.restaurantlaguerite. com/cannes/en/