Living on the Peninsula, June 2015

SUMMER 2015

The Boating Life The Live-aboard Life in Port Townsend Sequim Bay Yacht Club starts family sailing program Celebrating wooden boats — P.T. festival draws thousands Supplement to the Sequim Gazette and Port Townsend and Jefferson County Leader

The marina with the famous name: John Wayne’s legacy lives on in Sequim

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Departments

Contents 18

Outdoor Recreation 6 | A kayak trip to Freshwater Bay offers scenery and wildlife

The Living End 40 | Anchors Away!

Arts & Entertainment 29 | Check out Art Blast and other events from the North Olympic Library System

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In Focus The Boating Life

8 | Untamed seas The rugged Washington coast and its history of shipwrecks 10 | Attention to craftsmanship Some of the world’s premier yachts are built in Port Angeles

Vol. 11, Number 2 • Living on the Peninsula is a quarterly publication.

13 | Pristine waters Kayakers agree: Peninsula’s pristine waters are a paddler’s paradise

147 W. Washington St., Sequim WA 98382 © 2015 Sequim Gazette

18 | Marina with a famous name: John Wayne Marina is more than a place to moor a boat

John Brewer, Publisher Steve Perry, Advertising Director Editorial: Patricia Morrison Coate, Editor pcoate@sequimgazette.com

23 | By the beautiful bay Sequim Bay Yacht Club marks 40th anniversary

Production: Mary Field, Graphic Designer Trish Tisdale, Page Designer

32 | Live-aboard life A look at the small community of people who live on their boats 38 | Celebrating wooden boats Port Townsend Wooden Boat Festival draws 20,000 visitors 4 LOP Summer 2015

Advertising: (360) 683-3311 • (360) 452-2345

On our cover: Dozens of sailboats wait for the wind at John Wayne Marina near Sequim. Photo

by Patricia Morrison Coate

226 Adams St. Port Townsend, WA 98368 360-385-2900 Fred Obee: fobee@ptleader.com © 2015 Port Townsend Leader

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OUTDOOR

RECREATION

RIGHT ON THE

WATER Story and photo by Ross Coyle

Being on a boat is fun, but being on a kayak so close to the water you’re a part of the swells is better.

When you can feel the waves raising and dropping the kayak, feel kelp strands bump the bottom of the boat as you glide over them and take a break in the shadow of a 50-foot sea cliff, you get a completely different perspective on the environment.

That was my experience during a kayak trip to Freshwater Bay with Mark Palmer, a Port Angeles-based guide. On our short, 2.5-hour cruise out of the bay, we saw harlequin ducks, herons, river otters and even bald eagles. The trip took us out to Bachelor Rock, an isolated stack at the north end of the bay. Turning west, we explored several small inlets and even checked out a small sea cave.

While Palmer sold kayaks for several years, he’s been active in the sport for much longer. “It was about the mid-1980s that I took my first paddles,” the Michigan native says.

Palmer also says that kayaking has changed dramatically in the 30 years since he started.

“You used to get a boat and that was your only boat,” he laughs.

Today, the sport has diversified to river and sea kayaking, stunt-oriented play boating and even kayaks designed to tackle

6 LOP Summer 2015

says, because different paddles use different types of strokes and your stroke depends significantly on your body type. Some people use a long-bladed paddle and a deep, drawnout paddle stroke that provides more power over time.

Others use a short paddle that requires more shorter, fast strokes but is more maneuverable.

Palmer stresses getting a paddle that feels good to grip and isn’t too heavy. While six ounces might not seem like much, it can add up after hundreds of paddle strokes over a few hours. “The easier you can make it for you, the more you’ll enjoy the experience,” he says.

“I look at paddles like I look at tires,” Palmer emphasizes. “That’s what makes direct contact with the road for your car.

Your paddle makes direct contact with the ocean, you want to have a good paddle.”

Brian Orr, with Sound Bike and Kayak in Port Angeles, says newbies should expect to spend between $400 and $750 for kayaking gear. If you’ve got money left over, you also can pick up a kayak, but they can cost anywhere between $600 and $1,000. For beginners, renting a kayak for $50 a day is an easier financial commitment.

Finally, Palmer says that it’s always a good idea to start out with a guide to make sure Kayak guide Mark Palmer takes a break beneath a sea cave west of Freshwater Bay. On a previous kayak trip, Palmer says he saw an octopus working its way up the cave wall tentacle by tentacle.

drops from waterfalls. Waterfall kayakers regularly “drop 40 to 50 feet, which is just insane,” Palmer explains.

The varieties of modern kayaks can be daunting at first glance, but Palmer says that newcomers only need to worry about buying a few pieces of important gear. Getting a kayak can wait.

Palmer recommends getting cold weather clothes, a paddle and a life vest to start.

Clothes can be a wetsuit or drysuit with fleece layers underneath. The life vest should fit comfortably, but he reminds buyers that it only needs to float, so buy an inexpensive but reliable vest to save money for a paddle. Getting a personal paddle is useful because it will be matched to your stroke style and body.

Personal paddle power

Take your time buying a paddle, Palmer

you’re doing everything right. He says that it’s easy to get into bad habits and having a guide for the first few trips helps new kayakers get their bearings.

Guides also can teach some of the important skills all kayakers should know, such as how to exit and enter a kayak in the water, how to handle emergencies and paddle technique.

Palmer emphasizes the importance of paddle technique. Instead of pulling forward with just one arm, it uses less energy to engage your whole upper body. Under his guidance, I quickly learned to rotate forward and backward using my core to drive the paddle, instead of lunging forward to pull with my arms.

“It can really make your experience much more enjoyable because you’re much more efficient,” he says, but more importantly, correct technique protects the wrists, elbows and shoulders, which poor technique can easily injure.

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Ross Coyle is an education and sports reporter at the Kent Reporter and former staff reporter at the Sequim Gazette.

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There are several kayaking guides in the area, including Adventures Through Kayaking, Olympic Raft and Kayak, Dungeness Kayaking and the Dungeness Paddlers.

Kayak clubs like the Olympic Peninsula Paddlers or the Olympic Kayak Club complement these businesses. The clubs can be great sources of information, whether it’s skills practice in a pool or learning about new paddle sites on the coast.

There are several great kayaking sites for beginners around Port Angeles and Sequim. One of the best introductory sites is Freshwater Bay, according to Palmer. It is so popular that National Geographic listed it in a feature on things to do on the peninsula.

The shallow bay is a great location to start training, as its slow dropoff allows new kayakers to get a feel for maneuvering and paddle skills with a “safety net” if they fall out of the boat. As they get comfortable with kayaking, they can paddle out west to Salt Creek Recreation Area, a 5- or 6-mile trip.

Palmer also recommends the Dungeness Spit to intermediate kayakers, as long as they check tide tables and currents beforehand.

While the spit can be a great trip, he warns that sudden winds and tides can turn a good day sour. “It can get a little crazy out there in no time.”

With experience, kayaking trips can shift from a day or half-day to multi-day tours of the coast or a river. Palmer suggests Lake Ozette’s Tivoli Island as a place to practice a multi-day trip. The island sports two campsites and the lake allows kayakers to test carrying gear with a park ranger only six miles away if something goes wrong.

Those interested in getting into kayaking can stop by any of several shops and guide services along the peninsula. The Puget Sound and Strait of Juan de Fuca have become increasingly popular kayak regions over the years. n

A REALLY HOT SUMMER?

THE RUGGED WASHINGTON COAST AND ITS HISTORY OF SHIPWRECKS

UNTAMED SEAS

By Christi Baron

Photos courtesy of U.S. Coast Guard Archives

Three Russian sailors wait their turn for rescue. y Norwegian grandfather was a seafaring man; he served as first mate on a sailing ship called the St. Paul, also called the “Hell Ship” for reasons I have yet to uncover. He sailed out of Ballard for the Bering Sea many times, the last time being 1910. For me, the seafaring gene never kicked in.

I like the dry land, but I am continually fascinated by those that have made their living on the open water and the many shipwrecks that have occurred along the coast of the West End of Clallam County. Here are a couple …

The Prince Arthur

One thing that is predictable about the weather along the Washington coast is that it is unpredictable. Over the years this unpredictable weather and the rugged coast line have been the nemesis of many a seafaring vessel.

On the evening of Jan. 2, 1903, a ship’s officer aboard the Prince Arthur, a Norwegian bark that had been at sea 50 days from Valparaiso and on its way to Port Blakeley, most likely mistook a light on shore for the Tatoosh Island beacon, causing the ship to turn east into what he thought would be the Strait of Juan de Fuca. Instead, the ship turned into the rocky shoreline of Clallam County at about 5 p.m. that afternoon in heavy weather — the ship had no chance.

In spite of her iron construction, the ship began to break up. An attempt was made to lower the ship’s lifeboats but it was useless, waves were breaking over most of the vessel. Of the 20 men on board, 18 Norwegians and two Danes, only two men made it off alive.

Sixty years later in an interview, survivor Christopher Hansen, living in Brooklyn, N.Y., at the time, still could recall hearing the voices of his fellow shipmates calling for help from the foamy surf and

8 LOP Summer 2015

knowing there was nothing he could do. After dragging himself away from the waves hitting the shore, he fell asleep on the beach near what he described as a primeval forest.

It would be the next day when Hansen would discover that also surviving the wreck was the ship’s carpenter, a Dane named Knud Larsen.

Walking along the isolated beach, the two found some barrels of flour and butter washing up in the surf. They also eventually found the 18 deceased crew members.

Hansen also sadly remembered removing a pair of boots off of one of the departed. His own boots had been lost in his swim ashore and he knew he would not make it far in the rough terrain without suitable footwear.

After heading inland and then deciding their best bet for rescue was along the beach, they spotted smoke from the timber cutters’ cabin.

After a perilous ride in an Indian canoe and several other modes of transportation, Hansen was back in Norway promising his mother he would never go to sea again, but within a year he was back on another ship. Hansen and Larsen never saw each other again.

It took five days for news to get to Clallam Bay that the Prince Arthur had foundered. The Norse Club of Seattle launched a delegation to go retrieve the bodies and return them for proper burial, but due to advanced decomposition it was decided the dead should be buried near the beach and a location for a monument was chosen on the Norwegian timber cutters’ claim.

A few months later the 10-foot tall granite monument was put in place with the epitaph, “Here lies the crew of bark Prince Arthur of Norway foundered January 2, 1903,” and the names of the dead sailors, also including the names of the two survivors.

Eventually one of the Norwegian timber cutters left the area and the other died in 1933 but his family continued to pay taxes on the property, where the monument was placed, until Olympic National Park took over the property.

Through the years various groups and local residents have worked to keep the moss and brush from overtaking the monument.

Initially, the National Park Service designated the grave site as the Swedish Memorial, but later corrected it to the Norwegian Memorial, when

in fact maybe it really should be the Norwegian/ Danish Memorial or maybe it should just serve as a reminder to all that just like the weather, life and death are unpredictable.

The Lamut

On the evening of March 31, 1943, the Russian freighter Lamut left Portland, Ore., Vladivostok bound. As the ship headed up the coast, a southeasterly gale and a blinding rain caused the captain to become disoriented. In the galewhipped seas the captain, no longer sure of his position, ran aground at Teahwhit Head.

The rocky cove and U-shaped cliffs trapped the vessel, grinding and tearing her steel hull as the breakers forced her on her side. The 44 men and eight-women crew huddled in the pitch black darkness as the storm raged on.

Soon the Russians decide to launch a lifeboat.

As the craft was being lowered, a line snapped, sending one female crew member hurling and another female crew member to her death.

As morning broke the 6 a.m.-noon Coast Guard Patrol at LaPush at the Quillayute Coast Guard Station began to notice debris in the sea and a beach patrol soon found the body of the deceased woman. A sea rescue was launched but it soon became evident to the Coast Guardsmen that the position of the vessel and the high seas made it impossible.

As the wind continued to blow, 12 Coast Guardsmen initiated a land rescue. They hacked their way through thickly wooded terrain. It took two hours to go the one mile that brought them to the beach. Then they became mountain climbers.

They scaled the windswept sharp rocks and 200 feet below they could see the Russians hanging from the slanting deck. The Russians had made a sign which read “1 Wuman ill.”

After several attempts to throw a line to the freighter, the men on the rocks realized the rope was not long enough and time was running out.

Then one of the Coast Guardsmen had a simple but brilliant idea; he told everyone to take their laces out of their boots. The laces were tied together and then to the rope. A rock was attached to the end and finally the line was on the deck of the Lamut. Series of ropes were passed back and forth until a heavy enough one was in place. The Russian crew members went hand over hand over the raging seas to a ledge on the cliff. The injured woman somehow also was saved and almost 24 hours later, they all staggered out of the forest to waiting Coast Guard trucks.

Since it was wartime, news of the wreck of the Lamut went almost unnoticed. Only those who had a part in the rescue or were concerned with her movement knew of her loss. Also at that time, Russian sea captains who lost their ships faced the death penalty. Many Americans involved with the rescue wrote letters to Joseph Stalin asking that he not punish the captain for the loss of the ship. These letters are believed to have spared the captain’s life after his return to Russia.

One should never underestimate the power of Mother Nature, but one also should never count out the will of the human spirit and necessity. n

Above: The treacherous rocks of Teahwhit Head, located at the south end of Second Beach, south of LaPush, holds the Lamut captive.

Below: Coast Guardsmen, turned rock climbers, use ropes to rescue one of the Lamut crew members.

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In a publicity shot is Westport’s 164-foot yacht manufactured in Port Angeles

Attention to technology, craftsmanship makes Westport a leader in large yachts Story by Patricia Morrison Coate Photos courtesy of Westport, LLC

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ome of the world’s premier luxury yachts sailing the “seven seas” are built on the Olympic Peninsula

by Westport, LLC in the small coastal towns of Hoquiam, Westport and Port Angeles. The company’s reputation for outstanding engineering, design and craftsmanship is well-known among an ever-increasing number of millionaires and billionaires, especially in the Asian and European markets.

“Westport builds luxury yachts that range from 112 feet (Hoquiam) to 130 feet (Westport) to 164 feet (Port Angeles),” said Westport’s general manager in Port Angeles, David Hagiwara. “Our customers are worldwide and we have well over 120 boats of various models in service right now in the waters of the South Pacific, Alaska, Caribbean and Mediterranean.”

Westport was founded in 1964 to build vessels for the North Pacific commercial

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fishing fleet and over three decades constructed 200 commercial vessels, including 35 commercial passenger boats.

“When fishing hit hard times, the company decided to transition to pleasure boats,” Hagiwara explained.

Westport has embraced composite technology that makes its diesel-powered yachts lighter, faster, quieter and more fuel and energy efficient. At each of the shipyards, the yachts are built from the hull up, with the Port Angeles facility also having an 80,000-square-foot cabinet shop and a 4,100-square-foot upholstery shop.

“Our business model begins with all of our boats on a spec basis,” Hagiwara said.

“We will have several (of each model) under production and we start without a customer during the build process. The advantage to doing production-based repeating models is it provides reliability to the customer.

We pride ourselves on our warranty and

customer service after the boat is bought.”

Among its three shipyards, Westport employs an army of skilled tradesmen, from fiberglass fabricators, to laminators, electricians, plumbers, mechanics, carpenters, joiners, cabinet makers upholsterers, and communications and navigation installers.

To get some perspective, Westport’s largest yacht is about 55 yards on a professional football field.

Each model has a basic floor plan with a salon, dining room, galley, bathrooms, staterooms and crew quarters. The W112 will sleep eight in four suites; the W130 accommodates 10 and the W164 has room for 12, with the owners’ master suite on deck.

Westport yachts have luxurious interiors customized to match the tastes and desires of each customer, from the largest details to the smallest.

“We have interior design staff who work

o , s n s

Far left: This handcrafted nautical star is just one of hundreds of examples of the fine details that go into Westport yachts.

Top: A Hoquiam employee works on the pilothouse controls on one of Westport’s 112foot vessels.

Middle left: The bathroom, known in ship’s jargon as the head, features Italian marble and exotic woods.

Bottom: A sumptuous sky lounge aboard a Westport yacht reflects a customer’s personal tastes.

with each customer to get the feel of what the customer wants. One of our yachts is just like a custom-built house — the customer picks everything, down to the types of light bulbs and china.”

Designers have a library of materials showcasing exotic woods, imported marbles, carpeting, furniture styles and upholstery materials.

“The boats may look similar on the outside but customers personalize their own because each customer has a different use for their yacht,” Hagiwara said. “It takes an 80-week build cycle for the W164 to go from start to finish, from hull to hanging bathroom towels.”

The smaller and medium-sized models take 39 and 60 weeks, respectively.

For this interview, no photos were allowed on the production floor because, Hagiwara said, “Our customers are successful business folks and confidentiality is an issue for us and for them.”

Westport runs sea trials on every completed yacht in the Strait of Juan de Fuca, so if you watch carefully, you might just see one of these dream boats cruising it before heading for a life of sailing adventure across the world. 

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Members of the Olympic Peninsula Paddlers enjoy a paddle to Salt Creek in January.

Photo by Susan Blenk, courtesy of Olympic Peninsula Paddlers

Vicki Heckman, owner of Sound Bikes & Kayaks in Port Angeles, and best friend Angus are amid the dozens of kayaks available at the store.

Pristine Waters Local kayakers agree the North Olympic Peninsula is one of the best places anywhere to enjoy paddling Story and photos by Mary Powell

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isters Stephanie Nellis Hayes and Renée Nellis make the trek to Sequim at least once a year where their parents have retired. On this particular visit in early May, the Nellis sisters — Stephanie from Panama and Renée from Florida — were looking to do something a bit different than the usual drive to Hurricane Ridge or perhaps a hike along the Dungeness River. This time, they told their dad Dan Nellis, they wanted to experience the sea life in the waters surrounding Sequim, which led them to Don Rice, owner of Dungeness Kayaking. It was a good call.

Rice is a somewhat quiet, no-nonsense man who knows his stuff when it comes kayaking. The retired Sequim High School teacher moved from California to Sequim in 2002. He began kayaking tours as a summer gig when he first got here, but retirement now allows him more time for the fun stuff, like kayaking.

“Kayaking puts you on eye level with seals, otters and other sea wildlife.”

– Tammi Hinkle, owner

Adventures through Kayaking Port Angeles So it was on a sun-filled, but chilly and windy day in May, that the Nellis sisters and Rice arranged to meet at Cline Spit for a day of kayaking. Dad Dan tagged along to take photos and see for himself if his 52- and 57-year-old daughters actually were going to climb into a

kayak and paddle out to the New Dungeness Lighthouse and back, a 4-hour trip.

Their third daughter, Dan proffered, might be a bit smarter. “She and her husband went to Lake Crescent, much warmer there.”

The North Olympic Peninsula is surrounded by water on three sides, thus there is no shortage of water recreational opportunities. And kayaking is one of the most popular. In the summertime, particularly, it seems as if every other vehicle has a kayak or two strapped to its top, heading out to a freshwater lake, one of the spits on the Strait of Juan de Fuca or to the the calm waters of Discovery Bay. Visitors and those lucky enough to live in this pristine paddling paradise have an abundance of choices when it comes to kayaking. Don’t own a kayak? Not a problem.

There are dozens of shops that sell or rent, individuals who provide kayaks by the hour and plenty more who give lessons, tours or

Summer 2015 LOP 13

Left: And they’re off. Sisters Stephanie Nellis Hayes and Renee Nellis, visiting family in Sequim, get a final push from tour guide Don Rice, a longtime kayaker.

Below: Kayak and stand-up boarders enjoy a day in the water near Port Angeles. Photo courtesy of Sound Bikes & Kayaks

simply let a prospective buyer or renter take a few hours to try out paddling.

Rice is one of those who no longer owns a shop, but through his Dungeness Kayaking business, rents kayaks and offers tours and lessons between April and September. That fit the bill for Stephanie and Renée.

The first order of business before putting in was a discussion about the wind, which was fairly strong that May day.

“The weather is always a factor,” Rice said, “especially when I’m taking someone out who may not have a lot of paddling experience.”

Stephanie was game, but Renée, the sister from warm-weather Florida, needed a little convincing, especially when she learned she would get wet and would have to wade into the water in order to get in the kayak, being as the beach was rocky and would puncture the bottom of the boat.

Eventually the decision was a go. The sisters were outfitted with something called a skirt, which keeps the water off the legs, Stephanie donned a pair of boots, Renée a pair of non-waterproof shoes, and after a short, but thorough lesson on using the paddles, safety measures and whatnot, Rice put the kayak-for-two in the mildly choppy water, the sisters sloshed out to the vessel, he put his kayak in and away they went, with Renée looking back

14 LOP Summer 2015

WHERE TO FIND KAYAKING GEAR & GUIDES ADVENTURES THROUGH KAYAKING 2358 Highway 101 West, Port Angeles 360-417-3015 OLYMPIC RAFT & KAYAK 23 Lake Aldwell Road, Port Angeles 360-452-1443 DUNGENESS KAYAKING 369-681-4190 SOUND BIKES & KAYAKS 120 E. Front St., Port Angeles 360-457-1240 OLYMPIC PENINSULA PADDLERS Visit www.olympicpeninsulapaddlers.com for membership information over her shoulder, telling her dad not to go far from the phone. “I may have to come in early,” she shouted above the wind.

Those who kayak have many reasons for doing so, but all seem to agree there is no place like the North Olympic Peninsula to paddle.

“This is the best place anywhere to kayak,” claims Michael Stanhope, president of the Olympic Peninsula Paddlers. Stanhope is a jovial fellow who is at the ready to talk kayaking at the drop of a hat. He and his wife Lydia are California transplants and have lived in Sequim for 12 years. He has been a kayak enthusiast for at least 15 years. That was when he was 60.

Olympic Peninsula Paddlers (OPP) is a club for sea kayakers, white water paddlers, rafters, canoeists and any other paddle-powered watercraft. Membership ranges from people just beginning to experts in Greenland-style rolling and in surf kayaking, from members looking to purchase their first boat to those who have built their own stitch-and-glue or skin-on-frame kayak.

There is a group paddle each month, 52 weeks a year, Stanhope said. Oh, except for December, when they take time for a Christmas party. Although much merrymaking is involved, the group takes their paddling seriously. One winter, they were breaking ice while paddling out on the Strait of Juan de Fuca. Now, that’s dedication.

Stanhope, and more often than not Lydia, kayak every Monday and Thursday, as well as the monthly paddle. “We’ve seen orcas, continued on page 16 >>

WALKING ON WATER Stand-up paddle boarding comes into its own Story by Mary Powell If that sounds scary, those who do it Looking for a good core workout and say it’s not. maybe some balance practice as well?

On opening day of halibut season, Stand-up paddle boarding may be just usually the second weekend in the ticket.

May, friends Kelly and Chad made “Pulling through the water with your arrangements with Dell to rent two paddle is a very good core workout,” says stand-up boards and make a day of Shanon Dell, a frequent stand-up paddle paddling around Sequim Bay. Both boarder. “You’ll feel it the next day.” previously had paddled, but agree the Dell is the proprietor of Given to Glide first time they tried, it was easy. And Paddle Sports and has partnered with they added, Given to Glide was “a great John Wayne’s Waterfront Resort to open place to rent a board.” the paddle board rental and private On the warm, deliciously sunny day, lesson business. The bay (Sequim Bay), Kelly and Chad (who preferred not he says, has the best to offer for standto use their last names), pulled up to up paddle boarding. the resort, shook hands with Dell and “The calm water is great for proceeded to don wetsuits and booties. beginners while the complex current and The wetsuits, Kelly says, are designed to protected bay offers miles of interesting keep boarders warm, but on this day, coastline to explore,” Dell, who seems A glorious sunset is the background for a kayaker both she and Chad were concerned they to have a perpetual smile on his face, and stand-up paddle boarders at Sequim Bay. Photo courtesy of Shanon Dell, Given to Glide Paddle Sports would be too hot. Out on windy, coldsays of one his personal favorite paddle water Sequim Bay? boarding spots.

“We often jump in the water while A Montana transplant to Sequim, Wayne’s Waterfront Resort, she had been boarding just to cool off,” Kelly laughs.

Dell is a journalist by profession, having earned looking to bring more amenities to the resort.

Although Dell was confident his clients were a degree from the University of Montana in “It’s a great resource for our guests,” she says. well-versed in stand-up boarding, nonetheless, a Missoula. He spent seven years reporting for “My kids and I went out and were surprised at short lesson and safety tips commenced before NBCNews.com, but when the job was being how quickly we learned and how much fun it hitting the water. The paddle, he tells them, is transferred to New York City, he declined, was. Shanon is an excellent teacher.” “your stability, like a walking stick.” saying he needed “water and trees and A second cousin to the ever-popular kayak, Once there, both Kelly and Chad put in on mountains nearby.” The North Olympic the stand-up paddle board is just what it the beach at John Wayne Marina, paddled a Peninsula fit the bill. sounds like: a surfing-type board with no seat, short distance on their knees, then easily stood He now is the media technician for Peninsula a small rudder on the bottom and you standing up and headed out to enjoy the lovely day on College’s branch in Port Hadlock. Since he had up paddling. While early settlers who lived in the water. The temptation was too great for summers off, he began his stand-up paddle river-based and coastal communities stood up Dell; he asks if they want a tour — to which the boarding venture as a summer job. Dell, in their canoes and rafts and paddled standing answer was yes — and ran back up to his car to who admits to being “29 plus a few years,” for thousands of years, the popularity of standretrieve his brand new paddle board. is a PSUPA certified stand-up paddle board up paddle boarding originated in Hawaii as That’s the best part of his business, Dell instructor and gives a short lesson to everyone an offshoot of surfing. From a contemporary admits: talking to customers and showing off who decides to rent a board. standpoint and as a sport, stand-up paddle the sparkle of the North Olympic Peninsula.

“Our boards are large and stable, the water boarding began taking off after 2005.

“There aren’t that many paddle boarders is calm and you get a lesson before you hit the Stand-up paddlers wear a variety of wetsuits here,” he laments. “I would like to build that up.” water,” he claims. “If you’ve ever wanted to try and other clothing, depending on both water For more information, or to arrange a standpaddle boarding, this is without a doubt the and air temperature since most of their time is up paddle board session, call Dell at 888-216best place to give it a shot.”

0972 or visit www.giventoglide.com. n spent standing on the board.

Tracy Swanson agrees. As manager of John

Summer 2015 LOP 15

<< continued from page 14 gray whales, stellar sea lions. It’s just beautiful out there,” Stanhope said. “Sometimes they swim right under the kayak.”

He admits to owning nine kayaks, but uses the excuse his daughter, son-in-law and three grandchildren have to have something to paddle when they visit.

Kayaking is neither the most, nor the least expensive pastime. Unless renting is a permanent option, the first investment is the kayak, which can cost anywhere from $650 up to $4,000, “depending on kind of paddling you want to do,” said Vicki Heckman, owner of Sound Bikes & Kayaks located in Port Angeles.

Recreational kayaks, she said, are the least expensive, tour boats run between $1,000 to $2,000 while performance kayaks are the pricey ones.

“Yes, kayaking can be expensive, initially so,” she agreed. “But it is a lifetime of play after then initial output.”

This is the 16th year Heckman has both owned the store and enjoyed kayaking. For a kayak fan, walking into the store could be compared to a kid in a candy shop. One side of the store is devoted to mountain bikes, the other is filled with a variety of kayaks, paddles, life vests and any kind of equipment one might deem necessary to have fun and keep safe out on the water.

For newbies, Heckman recommends starting with a guided tour and renting a kayak for a time. She provides both. Then, when the bug bites, it’s time to “get a boat to grow into as paddling skills increase,” Heckman recommended.

“Kayaks are like shoes, they should fit you like your most comfortable shoe,” Heckman claims.

Don Rice, of Dungeness Kayaking, helps Stephanie Nellis Hayes, left, and her sister Renée Nellis don skirts that will keep laps dry on their paddle from Cline Spit to the Dungeness Lighthouse and back.

According to the history books, the Inuit and Aleut tribes of Arctic North America were the first people to build and use kayaks.

There were two basic types of kayaks: one was built with light driftwood, while others were made by stretching animal skins over frames make of whalebone. Tribe members used whale fat to waterproof the boats and filled seal bladders with air for buoyancy.

In addition to the single-person kayaks, they built umiaqs, which were large kayaks that could carry families and their possessions from one place to another.

These umiaqs were as long as 60 feet.

In 1936, kayak racing became a part of the The second annual Port Angeles Kayak and Film Festival in Olympic Games in Berlin, mid-April hosted nearly 400 kayak enthusiasts. The two-day event included kayaking and stand-up boarding classes and in an event called flatwater short paddle sport films. Photo by Susan Blenk, courtesy of racing. Kayak clubs began Olympic Peninsula Paddlers developing throughout

16 LOP Summer 2015

Europe and became more popular as time went by. The 1950s saw the development of fiberglass kayaks; polyethylene plastic became the norm by the 1980s. Kayaking was considered a fringe sport until the 1970s, when it became very popular.

So popular that many communities today host festivals revolving around paddling.

That includes Port Angeles, where the second annual Port Angeles Kayak & Film Festival took place in mid-April. How, exactly, one might ask, do movies and kayaks work together?

Tammi Hinkle, owner of Adventures Through Kayaking located on the west side of Port Angeles, and one of the organizers for the festival, explained.

“We show kayaking educational films and kayaking shorts outdoors, films that are only two to five minutes,” she said. “The films were made all around the world and it shows the interaction with other countries when it comes to paddle sports.”

Nearly 400 kayak and paddle fans attended the two-day festival that offered a variety of classes, plenty of kayaking opportunities and just plain fun.

What entices someone to climb into a kayak and paddle the waters?

The answer almost always includes words like serene, tranquil, quiet, peaceful, wildlife, nature, environment or even adrenalin rush.

“I love being out in the kayak,” Hinkle enthused. “We’re not under power, so it is quiet and peaceful and I feel a part of the environment, on eye level with seals and otters.”

As the name of her shop indicates, Hinkle and her staff offer many guided tours, either via kayak, mountain bike, paddle board or rafting. One of her favorite kayak trips follows what is called the Whale Trail, along the shoreline of Freshwater Bay on the Strait of Juan de Fuca. The view almost always includes bald eagles, otters, harbor seals, and, if guests are lucky, a whale.

And then there’s whitewater kayaking, and yes it does exist here. Just out of Port Angeles, Morgan Colonel owns Olympic Raft and Kayak.

“We’re kind of the river side of things when it comes to paddling,” said Colonel, who gets pretty animated when talking about the guided tours he gives.

Colonel moved from Wyoming to the Port Angeles area about two years ago, “because I like water,” he laughed.

So far, most folks opt for whitewater river rafting, but Colonel said he foresees in the future, kayaking the Elwha, Sol Duc and Hoh rivers in Olympic National Park will be a big draw for a lot of kayakers. Must be where adrenalin rush comes in.

And, he added, with the recent Elwha Dam removal, he and visitors will have more access for using kayaks to run the rapids, so to speak.

Almost makes one want to give it a try, doesn’t it? Or perhaps a calmer paddle on Lake Crescent or one of the scores of inlets along the strait might be more comfortable, especially for a first-timer climbing into the seat of a kayak.

Sort of like Stephanie Nellis Hayes and Renée Nellis, who, by the way, did not have to call their dad to pick them up. Rice reported the wind died down shortly after they paddled out of Cline Spit, they enjoyed the visit to the New Dungeness Lighthouse and paddled back to find their dad ready to take his daughters home to share tales of a first kayak trip on the North Olympic Peninsula. It was indeed, a good call. n

QUICK FACTS • The average kayak weighs 65 pounds • Kayaks range in price from $650 to $4,000 • Kayaks come in one-, two- or three-seated styles and vary between 10 and 20 feet in length • Sea kayaking is done out in the ocean or other bodies of water which are large and unpredictable; sea kayaks have two sealed bulkheads • Whitewater kayaking is done in rivers, streams and creeks where rapids or whitewater is present. The whitewater classification system rates the different rivers and rapids by level of difficulty to help paddlers assess.

• Surf kayaking takes place in the ocean but uses kayaks similarly shaped to whitewater boats • The name kayak means hunter’s boat, as kayaks originally were built by the Inuit and the Aleut tribes for hunting • Kayaking became an official sport at the 1936 Olympic games in Berlin

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FAMOUS NAME Sequim Bay’s John Wayne Marina is much more than a place to moor a boat Story and photos by Mary Powell epending on the time of year, John Wayne Marina, situated on Sequim Bay, can be a sanctum for quiet meditation, a long talk with a friend or skipping stones out onto the water, or it can be a abuzz with fishermen (and women), shrimpers, crabbers, sailors taking off for ports beyond, bicyclists, dogs splashing in the surf or perhaps a wedding overlooking the bay.

Indeed, there is something for everyone at John Wayne Marina. If it is the quiet you are seeking, then early fall and winter days are going to be calmer. Because Sequim sees an average of only 16 days of rain per year, winter is often the perfect time to bundle up, take a brisk walk along the marina’s numerous pathways, perhaps snap a few glorious photos with the crisp, clear water and air a backdrop, bird watch or leash up Buster for a walk, unhampered by dozens of visitors.

If hustle and bustle is more to your liking, late spring and summer at the marina is where it’s at. A day in late April, the shrimping season had begun and it was a prolific yield. In the south parking lot, boats were unloading coolers of shrimp onto pallets. A group from a company in Kent then loaded plastic bins filled with ice and shrimp onto their truck for the trip to the company headquarters to be processed and sold to various restaurants — and then onto the dinner table.

18 LOP Summer 2015

DID YOU KNOW?

John Wayne Marina is known as one of the most beautiful sailing centers on the Olympic Peninsula. The marina has moorage space for 300 boats and 22 slips for guest moorage.

There are 30 live-aboard slips, with one-half occupied.

“It’s kind of far from Kent,” one of the loaders said, “but this is one of the best places to get good shrimp and lots of it.”

Opening day for fishing was May 3, with the halibut season starting a week later.

There’s not a parking space to be found during these days. There is a winter and summer crabbing season which for the summer begins in early July this year.

The marina is a great place for kayakers and stand-up paddle boarders to put in, which is usually a spring and summer activity, as well.

There is a reason the marina has its well-known name. During his lifetime, the famous film actor John Wayne, along with his family of seven children, often sailed his yacht, The Wild Goose, in the waters near Port Angeles and Sequim. Turns out he liked the area so much he bought a chunk of property in Sequim, specifically near Sequim Bay. Wayne also was of the opinion Sequim

Bay would be a perfect spot for a marina.

In 1975, Wayne offered to donate 23 acres of land at Pitship Point on Sequim Bay. However, the offer came with two conditions: that the land be developed as a public marina and that construction begin by 1980.

But let’s back up a bit and bring the Port of Port Angeles into the story.

The Port of Port Angeles, which was established in 1923, owns, operates and manages marine facilities and marinas, among other lines of business. In 1931, the port built a small marina in Port Angeles that provided moorage for about 50 boats. By 1946, the need for a larger facility led to the construction of the Port Angeles Boat Haven, located west of Terminal 1. The Boat Haven was expanded in 1958 and renovated in 2006 and now has moorage for 410 boats.

But by the 1960s, the port began researching the possibility of building another marina, preferably in or near

• John Wayne was born Marion Robert Morrison in Winterset, Iowa, in 1907.

• When he was a boy, his family moved to Lancaster and then Glendale, Calif.

• His dog, an airedale, was named Duke and soon the local Glendale firefighters started calling Marion Duke, too. The name stuck.

• The Duke earned a football scholarship to the University of Southern California.

• John Wayne appeared in more than 175 films during his acting career, winning an Academy Award for “True Grit.”

• In 1964, he was diagnosed with lung cancer, but beat it. Fifteen years later he was diagnosed with stomach cancer, succumbing to the disease at age 72.

• • Wayne was posthumously awarded the Congressional Gold Medal and the Presidential Medal of Freedom, America’s highest civilian honor.

• • In his honor, the John Wayne Cancer Foundation, founded in 1985 by Wayne’s children, is an organization that brings courage, strength and grit to the fight against cancer.

Source: John Wayne Enterprises

Sequim. First proposals were to build a marina near the Dungeness Spit, but this plan was not popular with environmentalists and other groups and agencies.

This is when Wayne stepped up with his offer of land on which he mandated it be developed as a public marina. What a fantastic opportunity for the county, the port and in particular, Sequim. And what a stunning area for boaters and the general public to recreate.

The gift, however, didn’t come without controversy. Remember, Wayne had wanted the construction to start by 1980, which didn’t happen. Instead, there were years of planning and squabbling between the port and Clallam County over the size and scope of the marina. In 1983, the Corps of Engineers issued a permit giving the green light to start building the marina. The price tag: $6 million.

John Wayne Marina was dedicated on

Summer 2015 LOP 19

Sept. 14, 1985, which was store on site is at the attended by many of the ready to sell bait, tackle actor’s children (Wayne and groceries. died in 1979). Today, the As evidence of its special main marina building has character, John Wayne a collection of John Wayne Marina was featured in memorabilia on display. the June 2003 issue of SEA The amenities are plentiful Magazine as “Best of the at the almost city-like West” for small marinas. marina tucked into Sequim How about that?

Bay. It is truly a fisherman’s Next time you paradise, with showers, are enjoying a walk, laundry, launch ramps and picnic, boating, eating, fuel facilities. For those meditating, throwing the not interested in baiting ball for Fido, give a bit of up, the public beach access silent thanks for the John and picnic areas make for a Wayne family and for the wonderful day at the park.

Port of Port Angeles for The Dockside Restaurant its forward-thinking goals is conveniently situated to provide such an ideal close to the launch ramps facility for the people who and offers superb seafood live and visit this piece of with a view to match. heaven.

Within the same building John Wayne Marina is are banquet and meeting at 2577 West Sequim Bay facilities. Brides and grooms Road, Sequim, WA 98382.

The beach on the north side of the John Wayne Marina offers beach combing, find the grassy knoll For more information, call dog walking and a perfect site for putting in kayaks or paddle boards. overlooking the bay a perfect 360-417-3440 or visit www. spot to exchange vows. portofpa.com. cabins, camping and RV sites, all with A stone’s throw away The John Wayne’s stunning views of Sequim Bay. The cabins from the marina itself is the John Wayne’s Waterfront Resort is at 2634 West Sequim Bay were built in 1910 and boast some of the Waterfront Resort, which still is owned by Road, Sequim, WA 98382, 360-681-3853, or visit the Wayne family. Its resort offers historical www.johnwaynewaterfrontresort.com. n oldest structures on the bay. A quaint little

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Powerboats and sailboats perform maneuvers in unison during the annual parade. In the foreground is the Triple J, a Bayliner owned by Jim and Jan Jones.

By the bay, by the bay

BY THE BEAUTIFUL BAY Sequim Bay Yacht Club marks 40th anniversary Story and photos by Patricia Morrison Coate The sea gods were smiling over Sequim Bay during opening day of the spring/ summer sailing season of the Sequim Bay Yacht Club on May 2, providing azure skies with wispy white clouds and teasing sailboats with puffs of wind.

“Wind, we’re always asking for wind,” said Dale Dunning, manning the tiller of a 19-foot Flying Scot dinghy and maneuvering the boat’s main and jib sails to take advantage of the capricious wind well out into the bay from John Wayne Marina. Under Dunning’s practiced eye and hand, the dinghy glided over the water’s mirror-glass surface, with the only sounds of seabirds in flight.

“Personally, I think this venue is one of the most beautiful in the country. It’s a perfect place to race because it’s like sailing on a saltwater lake — it’s got its own private wind.”

Dunning was one of several experienced club members to give rides around the bay to about 35 adults and children and to introduce them to sailing during opening day.

Toward that end, the club started its Small Boat Family Sailing Program this year and will offer two sessions of sailing lessons in June. It’s also been purchasing small sailboats called dinghies to rent for people without boats.

“We’re trying to get more regular people involved because the club’s members have tended to be older and retired,” Dunning said. “We have about 100 members and our goal is to increase that by 20 percent in the next couple of years. Their age span is from 40 to 90 but we want people in their 20s and 30s, too, and get them on the water.”

Dunning, a sailing instructor and coordinator of the family sailing program, also is the district governor of the Flying Scots Sailing Association and president of the International Thunderbird Association.

“Boating is a real big draw even with people with no boating experience but who have dreamed of it,” Dunning said.

“We want to make their dreams come true through classes.”

And for boaters who are a bit barnacled in their skills, Dunning said, “Sailing is like riding a bicycle — it just comes back.”

Sailing into history

A full decade before John Wayne Marina opened in July 1985, about a dozen Sequim boaters decided to establish a yacht club during the summer of 1975. They met monthly, set dues at $12 a year, designed their pennant, elected officers, organized “excursions” and patiently waited for a home marina to be built. By the next spring, the club had attracted 170 members and had its first sailboat races in Sequim Bay. The SBYC, as members call it, also established a tradition of races, regattas, balls and holiday parties.

On its website at www.sequimbayyachtclub. org, charter member Bill Thomas waxed nostalgic. “We had a lot of fun back in the old days, but we worked hard, too. We attended every meeting the Port of Port Angeles held on the marina, did research on water and

Summer 2015 LOP 23

really have to experience it!”

It’s easy to become enthralled with the notion of sailing as Dunning whips out words with a hurricane force. The 58-year-old has been sailing since his high school days in 1976.

“I’m a fanatic about sailing — I just love it because I feel it’s what I was meant to do. I feel so natural with the tiller in my hand and all the day’s problems are gone for the time I’m on a boat. In a small boat, you’re part of the water, you’re connected with the water. This area is just a boater’s paradise and with the San Juans 25 miles north, we have some of the greatest cruising grounds in the world.”

Dunning also likes to race and that seems to be a club trait, too.

“Sailing with the wind is pretty cool — and racing is even cooler. It’s a beautiful sight, 25 sailboats racing for two days (in Sequim Bay). The area offers competitive sailors lots of competition opportunities,” Dunning said, adding, “and other just like messing around on their boats.”

The Malaika, owned by Ted and Judy Shanks, leads the way and broadcasts directional instructions via marine radio to the dozen or so boats in the sea parade. marinas, and fought hard to get our new facility. The club grew from the original 14 to over 300 at one time and we figured we were the largest dry land yacht club in the world.

Most of the people who belonged didn’t even own a boat, they just wanted to help get the new marina built. If my memory serves, it took either five or seven years from the time we began urging the Port to begin a marina on Sequim Bay until they began excavation.

For the people who arrive here and marvel at the facility, you can’t imagine what we went through to get it.”

The club marks its 40th anniversary this summer.

“There are retired people who will spend their summers cruising. It becomes a lifestyle for people. Even when your boat is moored at the marina, it ‘eats’ if you’re using it or not. It’s a getaway and you’re always planning events around boating. You just

‘Won’t you let me take you on a sea cruise?’

Whether baby boomers remember Frankie Ford’s hit “Sea Cruise” from 1959 or Johnny Rivers’ rendition in 1974, the question is a no-brainer for sailing couple Durkee and Mary Jeanne Richards, SBYC members since shortly after they arrived from Minnesota to retire on the Olympic Peninsula in 2001.

The pair had sailing experience while

The seduction of sailing

“Traditionally, when you think of a yacht club, you think of rich, swanky people and that is so far from the truth with our club,” Dunning said. “We all just have the common interest of water and boating. A yacht is a big cruising boat that costs $1 million-plus — it’s something big and expensive. Most of our club members don’t own yachts but powerboats and sailboats and within the club, there’s such a range of boats — as different as people are different.”

Club members’ cruising powerboats and sailboats range from 19-foot Flying Scots to 25-foot Bayliners, 40-foot trawlers and 50-foot sailboats. They’re for racing or for cruising, Dunning said.

“There’s a boating culture and all of these little subcultures within it — sailboats, wooden boats, racing, cruising and sport fishing. The boating community is very diverse on the peninsula,” Dunning noted.

24 LOP Summer 2015

Mary Jeanne Richards reads out maneuvering instructions to her husband, Durkee Richards, as he pilots their 32-foot boat Sirius during the yacht club’s opening day parade in Sequim Bay.

g y q

a i D

J a n w u t v

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growing up in Portland, Ore., and even 40 years in the “Land of 10,000 Lakes” didn’t quench their love for the open ocean.

“We loved the cruising opportunities and John Wayne Marina and we had a slip in the marina even before we had a house,” Durkee said.

While back in Minnesota, they saw a J/32 cruising boat for sale in a magazine and promptly bought it. The 32-foot boat named Sirius has both sails and an engine, with room to sleep five sardine-fashion, but usually it’s just the Richards alone who prefer the solitude of annual monthlong voyages, venturing only into marinas for provisions.

“Our first date was on a sailboat and I love the cruising we do,” Mary Jeanne said. “I’ll go anywhere that boat goes! I love the solitude, provisioning, organizing and preparing to go for weeks at a time. We usually take 3-4 weeks but sometimes up to six weeks and jaunts to Port Angeles and Port Townsend.”

“Soon after we moved here we said, ‘Let’s get engaged with the local sail fleet,’ so I raced with Bob McClinton as a crew member for several years,” Durkee said. “The sport tends to keep you enthusiastic about life later in life. By racing with the local sail fleet, I became a much better sailor even though I’d sailed for a lot of years. With racing, you

Home to the Sequim Bay Yacht Club, this facility overlooking John Wayne Marina is popular with club members and the public.

OLYMPIC PENINSULA SAILING EVENT CALENDAR JUNE

June 12 — Port Townsend Summer Catspaw 1 June 13 — Etchells Spring Series 4/Port Ludlow June 16 — SBYC Flying Scot & Small Boat Summer Series/Sequim June 20 — Midsummer Regatta/Port Townsend June 23 — SBYC Flying Scot & Small Boat Summer Series/Sequim June 26 — Port Townsend Summer Catspaw 2 June 27 — Etchells Summer Series 1/Port Ludlow June 28 — SBYC Summer Regatta/Sequim June 30 — SBYC Flying Scot & Small Boat Summer Series/Sequim

JULY

July 3 — Port Townsend Summer Catspaw 3 July 4 — Etchells Tune up/Port Ludlow July 7 — SBYC Flying Scot & Small Boat Summer Series/Sequim July 10 — Port Townsend Summer Catspaw 4 July 11 — Etchells Summer Series 2/Port Ludlow July 14 — SBYC Flying Scot & Small Boat Summer Series/Sequim July 17 — Port Townsend Summer Catspaw 5 July 18 — Etchells Tune up/Port Ludlow July 19 — SBYC Summer Regatta/Sequim July 21 — SBYC Flying Scot & Small Boat Summer Series/Sequim July 24 — Port Townsend Summer Catspaw 6 July 28 — SBYC Flying Scot & Small Boat Summer Series/Sequim July 31 — Port Townsend Summer Catspaw 7

AUGUST

Aug. 1 — Etchells Summer Series 3/Port Ludlow Aug. 4 — SBYC Flying Scot & Small Boat Summer Series/Sequim Aug. 7 — Port Townsend Dog Days Aug. 8 — Etchells Summer Series 4/Port Ludlow Aug. 11 — SBYC Flying Scot & Small Boat Summer Series/Sequim Aug. 14 — Port Townsend Dog Days Aug. 15 — Etchells Fall Series 1/Port Ludlow Aug. 18 — SBYC Flying Scot & Small Boat Summer Series/Sequim Aug. 21 — Port Townsend Dog Days Aug. 22 — Etchells Fall Series 2/Port Ludlow Aug. 25 — SBYC Flying Scot & Small Boat Summer Series/Sequim Aug. 28 — Port Townsend Dog Days Aug. 29 — Etchells Tune up/Port Ludlow Aug. 29-30 — SBYC Sequim Bay One-Design Regatta

SEPTEMBER

Sept. 1 — SBYC Flying Scot & Small Boat Fall Series/Sequim Sept. 5 — Etchells Tune up/Port Ludlow Sept. 5-7 — Port Townsend Thunderbird Regional Championship Sept. 8 — SBYC Flying Scot & Small Boat Fall Series/Sequim Sept. 11-13 — Port Townsend Wooden Boat Festival Sept. 12 — Reach for Hospice Regatta/Sequim Sept. 12 — Etchells Tune up/Port Ludlow Sept. 19 — Etchells Fall Series 3/Port Ludlow Sept. 26 — Etchells Fall Series 4/Port Ludlow Sept. 27 — Port Townsend Fall Nightcap 1 Summer 2015 LOP 25

YACHT CLUB HOSTS BEGINNERS COURSES ON SEQUIM BAY Sequim Bay Yacht Club’s Small Boat Family Sailing program is putting on sailing lessons in June, with a three-day and five-day course scheduled.

The five-day, on-the-water small boat sailing course is from 10 a.m.-4 Yacht club members p.m. Mondaygave rides around Friday, June Sequim Bay to the 22-26, at the public in sailboats yacht club’s like this Santa Cruz 27 room at the owned by Alan Clark.

John Wayne Marina, 2577 West Sequim Bay Road. Cost is $125 for the class and $25 for training material.

Class size is limited to 12 students. The course is designed for adults and families — minimum age 12 and older and older (youths must be accompanied by an adult).

A three-day adult course (ages 18 and older) is from 10 a.m.-4 p.m. June 21. Cost is $90 for the class and $25 for training material. Class size is limited to 12 students.

On-the-water instruction for both courses is on Sequim Bay using Flying Scots — 19-foot sailboats that course organizers say are stable, safe and roomy and that anyone can sail.

Both are beginner courses so no boating experience or equipment is needed to take the course.

This U.S. Sailing Organization sailing course covers boating right-of-way rules, how to ready the boat and yourself for safe sailing, how to rig the boat’s sails and the lines that control them, how to cast off and return to dock, how to steer and maneuver the sailboat using the boat’s helm (tiller and rudder), proper sail handling and trim and how to safely have fun on the water.

For more information or to register, e-mail Dale Dunning at info@opsailing.com.

26 LOP Summer 2015

Above: As is tradition, at the end of the parade, each boat’s crew salutes the Commodore’s boat, the flag ship Malaika. From left are yacht club member Bill Benedict, Sequim mayor Candace Pratt and Commodore Jean Heessels-Petit.

Below: Dale Dunning, a sailing instructor with the SBYC, pilots his 19-foot Flying Scot. sail on a specified day — despite the weather — and you learn how to sail safer and more efficiently in a much wider range of sea and wind conditions.

That’s particularly important when you go cruising. As I became more experienced, we pushed farther north up the waters of British Columbia.”

Durkee credits more seasoned SBYC cruisers with mentoring the couple so they would have the knowledge and confidence to do what they really wanted to do.

“We’ve also developed good friendships that have enriched our lives,” he said.

Durkee now serves as Vice Commodore of the club, scheduling meetings, maintaining club facilities and overseeing the budget.

can raise the most pledges.

For the past several years, the club has raised $20,000 each year for respite care.”

The regatta is a fun and fundraising event for Volunteer Hospice of Clallam County, a nonprofit which “provides free around-the-clock registered nursing availability to terminally ill patients, while supporting them and their families emotionally, physically and spiritually with a team of trained caregivers and volunteers.”

This year’s Reach for Hospice Regatta will be Sept. 12 at John Wayne Marina. The public is invited to picnic and watch the races. Since the first regatta in 1992, the club has raised more than $250,000 which VHOCC has used to provide respite care for caregivers.

Serving the community

Membership

“We’ve really not been as visible to the community but we’ve got a lot to offer the community,” Durkee said, not the least of which is the club’s charitable support.

“We’ve had our Reach for Hospice Regatta for more than 20 years. Dr. Mike Crim started it and we take pledges in the name of each boat and also compete to see which boat

Dunning said about half of the club’s members don’t have their own boats but join for the camaraderie and joy of sailing anyway. Dues are $325 per year with a one-time initiation fee of $300. Members meet monthly at 7:30 p.m. on the second Wednesday at John Wayne Marina, 2577 West Sequim Bay Road, Sequim. n

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ARTS &

at the library

ENTERTAINMENT

The coolest summer ever

The Pine Hearts perform at NOLS Spring 2015 Art Blast. The quarterly Art Blast is an after-hours event that transforms the library into an arts venue. After the the library closes on Friday evening, the doors are re-opened for a live performance and art opening.

Check out Art Blast and other NOLS events Story and photos by Christina Williams ummer’s here, the days are longer and the weather is beautiful. Maybe the family staycation has the kids pleading for a new activity — or maybe you’re visiting the Olympic Peninsula and want to learn about the local area. Why not start at the library? The North Olympic Library System offers a bounty of familiar resources and some new opportunities that may surprise you. In the past few years, NOLS has added a popular event to its calendar called the Art Blast — a quarterly after-hours gathering that takes place on a Friday night. Part art opening, part concert or other live performance, the free event offers the public a chance to look at new

Summer 2015 LOP 29

c P

f t c r l a a t w

i t ‘ w i a a p g n d

As libraries expand the types of functions and programming they offer in the community, the spaces within the library reflect new design ideas such as the “Third Place.” The NOLS Library in Forks recently has incorporated an attractive fireplace in its central area, enhancing its appeal as a gathering place. Photo courtesy NOLS Library Photo Collection art, enjoy a performance and socialize in a relaxed atmosphere with refreshments provided. We’ll discover more about Art Blast and other exciting programming, but first we’ll take a look at some of the ideas behind it, thanks to NOLS’ staff member Noah Glaude.

“The library is not just a place to store books,” muses the Seattle transplant, who arrived here in 2011. As library manager of the Port Angeles Main Library, Glaude’s youthful exuberance is suited to looking to the library’s future as he outlines its current (2015-2016) priorities: “To provide literacy, education and enrichment opportunities to people of all ages.”

He explains how creating enrichment opportunities for the larger community is “a driving force” behind the arts programming throughout the NOLS system, which includes the main library in Port Angeles and branches in Clallam Bay, Sequim and Forks.

The library as a ‘Third Place’ and venue for the arts

“People’s ideas of what they need from a library are changing pretty quickly,” observes Glaude, “and NOLS is changing to meet those expectations. Sure, there’s still the idea that libraries are just about books and might do author talks. But the library always has had CDs and music and art books, so why limit programming to just authors

30 LOP Summer 2015

as the library redesigns its spaces to support an increasing variety of functions in the communities that it serves.

“The Third Place idea has been around for a while,” he says. “It means being a place that’s not home, not work — a neutral in-between place. It’s kind of the idea of a coffee shop/ community center — a place to gather and get a different set of cultural experiences.”

He emphasizes that the arts are wellrepresented in the programming created for the NOLS 2015-2016 events schedule. While Art Blasts and art opening concerts take place at the Port Angeles and Sequim libraries, they are only two of many art-related events scheduled for this summer throughout the NOLS system. To check for current events at your nearest NOLS library, visit: www.nols.org and click on the Events menu.

One of the many “Friends” volunteers in the NOLS system, Emma Childers works at the bookstore at the Port Angeles Library. The proceeds are a major source of funding for the library’s arts events. talking about their books? Why not have musicians come and perform as well?”

New directions in programming require a re-imagining of the library’s space — how can it best accommodate these new offerings?

Glaude talks about a design concept called the “Third Place.” This idea comes into play

Early days — Origins of the Art Blasat and the ‘Living Room’

“The Art Blast series was started at the Port Angeles Main Library in 2010 by Margaret Jakubcin back when she was NOLS’ assistant director,” recalls Glaude. Jakubcin (who is now NOLS’ director) worked with then director Paula Barnes. “There was a real organizational shift under way at the time and trying new ideas was part of that process.

The Art Blast was Margaret’s idea — she started it and we expanded it around 2011.

She also oversaw the renovation of what we

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A

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i a a a t m i p

call the ‘Living Room,’ a central area in the Port Angeles Main Library.”

This change in the space paved the way for new possibilities. Glaude describes the previous design of the “fortress-like” circulation and reference desks that were removed from the area to make way for lighter, movable furniture. This flexibility allowed the space to be used for performing and presentations. He marvels at the transformation: “Last year, a contra dance was held in that space!”

Jakubcin reminisces, “The main inspiration behind the Art Blast was a desire to do something big, noisy and fun — right ‘in the heart of the library’ — something that would startle people into seeing the library in a new and different way. I’d say we’ve accomplished that! At the first Art Blast — a community drum circle — people were pounding away on the drums with gleeful grins on their faces. When I attend Art Blasts now, people still say to me, ‘I can’t believe I’m doing this in a library!’”

Fellow staff member Glaude notes that while we’re somewhat isolated in this location, “What’s amazing is all the shows and performances that are happening here all the time. Still, we’re not the Puget Sound region, so it’s nice to be able to provide these opportunities for free to people on the peninsula.”

Art Blast from the recent past

Planning is key. The Art Blast events that are now featured quarterly at both the Port Angeles and Sequim libraries combine art exhibits and live performances. “ “Diane Williams is the volunteer Art in the Library coordinator for all the work that goes up quarterly at the Port Angeles Library,” says Glaude.

Williams reached out to her contacts in the local arts community to produce an awesome and timely exhibit of marine debris art, with the assistance of Sarah Tucker and other local artists. Each contributed their creations from the thought-provoking medium. The works were skillfully integrated into the space surrounding the performance stage. The marine debris

Artist Sarah Tucker is becoming well known for her art pieces made from marine debris. Her “Merperson” is a large and eerily organic figure constructed of twine, rope, wire and a tripod. artwork from the Spring Art in the Library show will remain on display through July 7.

While Williams oversaw the art for the event, multi-tasking Glaude coordinated the music, as he has for the past year and a half.

“Since we do this on a quarterly basis,” he says, “we kind of have a formula for the setup. We know the equipment we have — but some groups like to bring their own.”

Glaude keeps an eye out for interesting bands from the peninsula and elsewhere.

After listening to their music, he’ll make a selection and contact them about the possibility of performing at an event.

Glaude hired The Pine Hearts for the recent spring Art Blast. Hailing from Olympia, the band describes its music as Cascadian Country. The group has a heavy touring schedule, but we’re richer for their brief visit. Their traditional country flavor complements smooth lyric originals by lead singer/songwriter Joey Cappocia. Backed by Phil Post’s mellow pedal steel and radiant Miss Kate on the string bass, the band’s sound is rounded out by the tidal rhythms of percussionist Austin Cooper’s unique ocean drum. If you missed the event, you can learn more about them at www.thepinehearts.com.

Summer Art Blast (July 10): An evening of local tribal culture

The opening reception begins at 6:30 p.m. for this exhibit of works by artists of the Lower Elwha Klallam Tribe. Native storyteller and artist Roger Fernandes will sing a traditional welcoming song and share stories of the tribe. Afterwards, the Lower Elwha Drum Group will perform traditional songs and storytelling. The art will be displayed from July until Oct. 6. This event is part of a monthlong series of programming related to a Burke Museum exhibit called “Elwha: A River Reborn” that will be on display June 1-Aug. 30.

Visit www.nols.org for more details.

A word about some very special friends The art events offered by the NOLS are carefully planned and brought into being by the collaborative efforts of many people.

Professional library staff create the events’ programming, but the cost of bringing the events to the public is largely funded by Friends of the Library organizations. Each branch has its own Friends organization that works on various fundraising projects to support its local branch. New members and volunteers always are welcome. n

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live-aboard life Story and photos by Viviann Kuehl One of the most recognized, but exclusive, communities in Port Townsend is that of the live-aboard, people living on their boats in the harbor.

Of the 350 boats in the harbor, only 15 to 20 are live-aboards, said Tami Ruby, harbormaster for the Port of Port Townsend.

“Some sail, some don’t, and there are a few that don’t go at all. It’s a lifestyle choice,” she said. “They want to be on the water.”

“It’s less popular than it used to be,” Ruby noted. “We have one guy who’s been here as long as I have and I’ve been here 22 ½ years. There are no families anymore; it’s mostly single people and a couple of couples. Most of the time with families, they stay while the kids are little and then they move off the boat.”

Live-aboards don’t have to go anywhere, but their boats need to be able to, she said.

The Port is committed to a working marina, said Ruby, with no room for houseboats or dead boats. There is just one houseboat in the harbor, a grandfathered remnant of an earlier age, and unoccupied.

“There’s a requirement that liveaboard boats have to be in running condition,” she said. “They have to follow the same policies as other boats. We require a derelict deposit.”

If you have a small boat, living aboard can be fairly economical, noted Ruby, even with the monthly $70 charge for extra use of the facilities: water,

32 LOP Summer 2015

Live-aboard Larry Pepper can stretch his arms from one side of his living space to the other. He has a kerosene lantern to light his table, a computer to keep current, a cooking area with a sink for washing, and a guitar resting on his bed behind him. Everything is always within reach. restrooms and laundry. For an average 30-foot boat, the cost is $327.26 plus metered kilowatts per month.

In various sizes and types of boats, the live-aboards are scattered throughout the marina.

“Live-aboards are a pretty good idea,” said Ruby. “Because there is someone here all the time, they keep an eye on things. It’s kind of like a neighborhood.”

“We socialize, we help each other out,” commented live-aboard Larry Pepper.

“We like privacy, and value closing the hatch, but we need to fraternize.

Otherwise it’s easy to become reclusive.

The whole boatyard is its own ecosystem, in harmony with but independent of Port Townsend, like its own neighborhood.”

Pepper was a public school elementary music teacher until retiring two years ago.

He’s occupied the same spot in the marina for the past three years, chosen because it was more convenient for the shower and the parking lot, important considerations when he got up early for his job.

He had a couple houses in Port Townsend over his 16 years of residency and described them as OK, but solid. He prefers to sleep on the water.

“I’ve always had this draw to be close to the water,” he said.

Pepper has been around boats since he was 12. As a young man, he served in the Air Force, then got a teaching job in Juneau, Alaska, where he spent time on the docks. A runner, he found the wooden docks were easy on his knees, and soon he was living aboard a powerboat.

“One venue led to the next,” he recalled

Northwest Living

of his 10 years there and his subsequent move to Port Townsend.

“Port Townsend is a perfect sailing bay, one of the top 10 in the U.S.,” said Pepper.

Pepper loves his boat, Moxie, a 23-foot Footloose built locally in 1977, that sails well.

“I love this boat. It’s easy to heat. It’s romantic, but it’s not an easy place to live. Most days are not sun-drenched.

It’s like a really fancy tent that floats. I have somewhere to cook, a heater, a porta-potty, a sink, wireless Internet. I have everything a house would have but less space.”

Much less. Everything is fitted into the confines of the boat’s interior, roughly 6 feet wide, 10 feet long and 5 feet tall.

“There’s no standing head room. It’s a good lesson in humility,” said Pepper.

“If you have a partner, you try living in the bathroom for a month to see what it’s like,” he said. “You can’t bring all your stuff. I have a storage unit that makes this possible.”

“If you’re not neat and tidy, you will soon learn to be neat and tidy,” said Pepper.

Still, it takes an hour to get ready to go sailing, so he is more prone to take his powerboat when he wants to fish.

He has a motorcycle and camper to take him on other adventures.

“I spent a lot of my life doing ‘if only’ and that’s a waste of time,” said Pepper. “My favorite beer is the one in my hand, and that applies here. A nice day has more meaning, and there’s a gift with that, and that’s what I focus on.”

“I’m proud of my lifestyle,” said Pepper, “but I’m not a spokesperson because there is so much variety in the people who live aboard.”

Some are local, some are seeing the world one piece at a time, some are preparing for long voyages, to the South Pacific or elsewhere.

“There are a lot of marine trades here, so people come to get work done on their boats. They can stay just a few months, but they can stay for a year or two. It depends on what they want,” explained Ruby.

“They are a nice bunch of people,” commented Ruby.

“It’s a different lifestyle. They have to want to live aboard. I don’t think I could do it.” n

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OPEN EVERY DAY

9am-7pm Mon-Sat & 10am-6pm Sun

1121 Water Street 360-385-9595 3

36 LOP Summer 2015

Treating the whole person.

No waiting lists.

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Port Townsend

FIRST FRIDAY AT THE BOAT SCHOOL

erry

www.JennyClairvoyant.com

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Open Fri-Sun 12-5 alpenfirecider.com for details (360) 379-8915

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Fort Townsend State Park

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42 N. Water St. Port Hadlock 360.385.4948 nwboatschool.org

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Come in for a free taste!

Anderson Lake State Park

.

Rhody Dr

Unique and delightful fudge, from a combination of “old country” Italian and Irish Grandmother’s recipes.

100% Real Cream & Butter ❤

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See �irsthand our tradition of craftsmanship and exciting growth and changes at the school. Join us at 3:30pm on the �irst Friday of each month and on Festival Friday (Sept. 11) to tour the Port Hadlock Heritage Campus.

!

!

Olympic Peninsula Cider Route

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Open Fri-Sun 12-5 eaglemountwineandcider.com (360) 732-4084

ptFUDGEco@gmail.com 922 Washington St. • Port Townsend • 360-302-0887

visit us at www.searuns.com ravensbop@olympus.net

Summer 2015 LOP 37

Boats anchored in Port Townsend Bay are bathed in sunrise colors during the Port Townsend Wooden Boat Festival.

Celebrating wooden boats The Port Townsend Wooden Boat Festival draws 20,000 visitors Story by Fred Obee Photos by Port Townsend & Jefferson Leader Staff

A young boy tries out his boat creation.

38 LOP Summer 2015

Every year the weekend after Labor Day, the boats begin to drop anchor in Port Townsend Bay. They come in every shape and size and from every corner of the Northwest. Majestic schooners, agile sloops, classic cruisers, rowboats and even Viking replicas crowd the bay. By the time the gates open for the Port Townsend Wooden Boat Festival, the bay is jammed with boats and the area around the Point Hudson marina teems with people and vendors.

“It’s going to be classic this year,” said Northwest Maritime Center Executive Director Jake Beattie.

One new feature will be a museum exhibit outside the festival grounds in the Cotton Building, which stands just off the public square and park across from Port Townsend City Hall.

“The theme is maritime legends,” Beattie said. “There will be ship models and artifacts, and legends, true or not!”

Among the featured boats this year will be the MV Olympus, a classic fantail yacht built in 1929 by George Callendine, a partner in a Wall Street investment firm. He asked for a low profile design so he could commute to Wall Street from his Long Island homes without forcing bridges to open.

Beattie said he also hopes to include some of the boats which will take part in this summer’s Race to Alaska, an event being sponsored by the Northwest Maritime Center. The race is for boats without engines. Beyond that, Beattie says, the race has very few rules.

“People ask if they can leave their motors in and just not use it, and I say no,” Beattie said.

About 60 participants have signed up. Among them are world-class rowers and sailors, and at least three teams are building boats specifically for this race. The top prize is $10,000. The second prize is a set of steak knives.

This year the Wooden Boat Festival is set for Sept. 11-13. Port Townsend is pretty much

assured that at least 20,000 people and more than 300 boats will arrive for the festivities.

You don’t have to be a boater to enjoy the festival, as there are lots of activities for everyone. There’s live music virtually all day, plentiful delicious food choices and lots of opportunities to get out on the water.

You can test a kayak or learn the team approach to rowing aboard replica longboats. Feeling the need to just chill? How about a waterfront beer garden and a front row seat for schooner races?

Because so many people come for the festival, vacancies in motel rooms, B&Bs and vacation rentals are in short supply. A word to the wise — book early if you plan to spend the night.

A wristband is required for admission between 9 a.m.5 p.m. Friday and Saturday, and between 9 a.m.-3 p.m.

Sunday.

Finding the festival site is easy. The Northwest Maritime Center, a relatively new facility in Port Townsend, stands on the waterfront in downtown Port Townsend at the front gate. During the festival, parts of the Maritime Center require admission. However, the Wooden Boat Chandlery (yellow building) and connected Velocity coffee shop are open to the public.

People piloting their carbon burners to the festival need to be aware that free public parking spaces are limited. The best bet is to climb aboard your two-wheeler and ride right up the bike racks at the front gate. If that’s not an option, Jefferson County Memorial Athletic Field across from the festival is open as paid parking, with proceeds going to help with the maintenance and operations of the field. The Haines Place Park-and-Ride (near Safeway) is free, as is overflow parking across the highway at the Port of Port Townsend Shipyard. Festival tickets are available at the park-and-ride on Saturday.

Jefferson Transit has multiple shuttle bus runs from these two parking areas to and from the festival main gate, so check schedules on arrival to see when they will be running.

Music is a big part of the festival. There always are great dances Friday and Saturday nights. Music is free after 5 p.m.

The Port Townsend Arts Guild’s Crafts by the Dock returns this year in the public space across from Port Townsend’s historical City Hall.

Thursday is Locals’ Night, with free admission at the Main Stage Music Tent and Bar Harbor beginning at 5 p.m. n

Above: A highlight of the festival is the sail-by at the festival’s conclusion.

Big schooners and small craft alike put on a show for people lining the beach.

Below: Festival goers crowd the docks to get a close-up look at the boats.

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Summer 2015 LOP 39

LIVING

END

Anchors Away!

By Rev. Pam Douglas-Smith

This time of year, the Salish Sea offers an invitation to all who live on the Olympic Peninsula. Come out from your fireside hearth as you respond to the beckoning call of the surrounding waters.

Let the fresh breezes blow through the open windows of your home and your heart. Open to embrace the lengthening days that enlighten your world and your soul. Walk upon the beaches with winter driftwood still decorating the shores to find treasures anew. And let the boats all slide from trailers and be hoisted from dry docks to return to the waters that surround us in such abundance.

The “Season of the Boat” is upon us in glorious abandon. From the first weekend in May with the official initiation of boating all around the peninsula to the internationally known Wooden Boat Festival, the waters come alive with the sound of sails being hoisted, engines revving and paddles quietly dipping into the waters. Wherever you journey on the Salish Sea shorelines of the Olympic Peninsula, boats will captivate your imagination and remind you of the glory of freedom. Each a vessel of adventure, however large or small.

For here on the peninsula, the infinite variety of nature’s beauty is matched with its creative expression of sea going vessels. Some days it even looks as though there is a rush hour made of wood and fiberglass, of sail and power, of water and waves. So much nicer than the familiar one of concrete roads and car horns.

From tiny hand-crafted kayaks that almost become one with the water to the deep drone of large ferries filled with cars and people. From the Glacier Spirit tour boat speeding toward pods of orca whales to wild contraptions teetering close to shore for the Kinetic Skulpture Race in Port Townsend. Cruisers, sailboats, dories, scows, kayaks, canoes and more.

And if lucky, a special treat as time

40 LOP Summer 2015

seems to disappear when the schooner Adventuress glides across the waters under full sail or the canoes of the First People come across the waters filled with youth to take their rest upon our shores. All reminding us how elemental is our love of the water and our desire to become one with it.

The Salish Sea calls us all out into nature. Whether we have a boat ourselves or not, they capture our attention and imagination. It is an honored tradition that each boat is graced with its own special name — one carefully selected by the creator or owner to capture the essence of what they envision the craft will be for them. Sometimes funny, sometimes poignant. Some planned and others inspired by a whim. All worth noticing as they travel over the waves or rock gently in their slips if one seeks deeper communion.

For the building of a boat and its naming is sacred for those who love the sea. Antoine de Saint-Exupery saw it as a reflection of how we can create our lives with more passion if we listen to this special wisdom. For the birth of a boat, its launching and its journeying is not pure logic … it is magic and adventure calling.

He wrote: “If you want to build a ship, don’t drum up people to collect wood and don’t assign them tasks and work, but rather teach them to long for the endless immensity of the sea.”

Sea going vessels are a reminder that we, too, are meant to journey forth. It is so easy to get stuck in daily routine and life’s expectations. We find ourselves looking at the ground where we take one step at a time, rather than raising our vision to the horizon. As the boats return to the seas this summer, let us return to the possibilities of new adventures. To inspire us, there is a wonderful quote from Grace Hopper: “A ship in the harbor is safe, but that is

not what ships were made for.”

To set out across the Salish Sea or any other unknown territory, one must have the courage to do so. For the safety of the harbor is a crucial part of the journey.

Unless one is rested and has prepared in advance, the voyage holds far more perils.

If sails are not tended and engines tuned, how easy to find one at the mercy of the tides above and rip currents below. But, if one stays there, one becomes trapped and stagnant. There are waters to travel, sunlight to bask in, new vistas to behold and new adventures to embrace. All waiting for you to journey forth.

Remember the words of Louisa May Alcott when she wrote: “I’m not afraid of the storms, for I’m learning how to sail my ship.”

The open sea is calling. Your life is calling. It is said that the winds of grace are blowing all the time and we have only to raise our sails. How can you do that this summer? Look to the vessels all around you and let them inspire you.

Some who are reading this article have been shaking their heads since reading the title, “Anchors Away.” I’m hoping your love of boats has allowed you to sail along with me thus far. For as you know, the accurate spelling of the term is “Anchors Aweigh.” For those of you new to the term, it means the moment the anchor is fully aboard so the vessel is officially under way. But for those less nautical, it truly means to put the “anchors away” so one can sail forth. That is what this season is calling you to do — however you spell it.

Pull up your anchors, set your eye to the horizon and sail forth. It’s time.

The Rev. Pam Douglas-Smith dedicates this column to Jacques Thiry and his brig Unicorn. She is minister to the Unity Spiritual Enrichment Center in Port Townsend and can be contacted at revpam@unitypt.org.

Immerse yourself in the timeless charm and natural beauty of Fort Worden.

Open year-round for day use and overnight stays; Fort Worden welcomes individual travelers and groups of all sizes to this 434-acre state park. Accommodations include cottages, historic homes, dormitories and camping with stunning views of the Salish Sea and Cascade and Olympic Mountains.

Onsite, the Commons CafĂŠ serves organic produce and artisan products for breakfast and lunch daily, Taps at the Guardhouse features local microbrews, ciders and wines, and the Beachhouse Canteen offers picnic-inspired fare.

Conferences, meetings, special events and wedding venues are available.

Join us for innovative programming and extraordinary events!

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Summer 2015 LOP 41

42 LOP Summer 2015

Graysmarsh Farm SE

LL

ND

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SEQUIM

HO

CARLSBORG

TO PORT ANGELES

- DUNGENESS WAY

IM QU

WOODCOCK

OLD OLYMPIC HIGHWAY

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WASHINGTON ST.

TO SEATTLE

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