s e i t ci Special edition
a women’s travel magazine just go
Table of Contents 3... Cities 7... paris 11... new york city 15... london 1
a celebration
of
Women
&
Places
where they go
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memorializing the metropolis
We chose to dedicate this special edition to the urban counterpart of our name: cities. We are intrigued by citiesthese conglomerates of human life, centers of activity, reform and revolt, creativity and culture. Lots of life is lived in cities. let’s take a look at what makes people flock to these blocks. 3
Can we believe—by an effort comfort our hearts: it is not waste all this, not placed here in disgust, street after street, each patterned alike, no grace to lighten a single house of the hundred crowded into one garden-space. Crowded—can we believe, not in utter disgust, in ironical play— but the maker of cities grew faint with the beauty of temple and space before temple, arch upon perfect arch, of pillars and corridors that led out to strange courtyards and porches where sunlight stamped hyacinth-shadows black on the pavement.
dour of palaces, paused while the incense-flowers from the incense-trees dropped on the marble-walk, thought anew, fashioned this— street after street alike. For alas, he had crowded the city so full that men could not grasp beauty, beauty was over them, through them, about them, no crevice unpacked with the honey, rare, measureless.
So he built a new city, ah can we believe, not ironically but for new splendour constructed new people to lift through slow growth to a beauty unrivalled yet— and created new cells, hideous first, hideous now— That the maker of cities spread larve across them, grew faint with the splen- not honey but seething life.
And in these dark cells, packed street after street, souls live, hi eous yet— O disfigured, defaced, with no trace of the beauty men once held so light. Can we think a few old cells were left—we are left— grains of honey, old dust of stray pollen dull on our torn wings, we are left to recall the old streets? Is our task the less sweet that the larvae still sleep in their cells? Or crawl out to attack our frail strength: You are useless. We live. We await great events. We are spread through this earth. We protect our strong race. You are useless. Your cell takes the place of our young future strength.
by h.d.
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JUST GO
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Presenting city + sea’s top
cities
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paris
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Paris is timeless and romantic. It has been a haven for lovers and revolutions and extravagance and passion ever since anybody can remember. Explore paris- its history of blood and gold. Enjoy warm baguettes and aged cheeses. Have a picnic under perhaps the most iconic architecture ever createdthe eiffel tower.
By Sharron Livingston Paris, the European capital for love and romance is ideal for a weekend get-away – and not just at spring time as is so often said. Winter heralds many cultural events and summer is lazy, balmy and almost sizzling. Any time of year, gay Paris can instill its joie de vivre and leave with a little oh la la simply because it has so many faces; the glamourous, the touristy, the historic, the fashionista or Bohemian. Just take a stroll along the fashionable Champs Elysee towards the Arc de Triomphe, enjoy the café culture and be entertained by street magicians and singers. Or amble around Butte Montmartre – the Martyrs’ Mound – to peruse the swinging art market and mingle with artists as you pick your way through precipitous stairways and narrow lanes. But if you are a first time visitor, do not leave Paris without visiting some of these must-sees:
PA The Lourve museum
This magnificent art gallery, a former royal palace, is home to Leonardo da Vinci’s famous Mona Lisa. The Louvre has an unparalleled collection of 35,000 of items over four floors of a very large palace, covering the full spectrum of art
of England). The design, the brainchild of Gustave Eiffel, was chosen out of 700 proposals. The tower is 300 metres high and was the world’s tallest erection until 1930. Note how the tower resembles a female leg with a garter. Can’t see it? Just imagine it turned upside down.
The tower has three platforms. If there are queues for the lift, try climbing the 360 steps to the first level and pick up the lift there. This world famous tower was built Another 700 steps will take you for the International Exhibition of to the second level. A gastronomParis of 1889 to commemorate the ic restaurant (extremely expencentenary of the French Revolu- sive; reservations absolutely nection. It was opened by the Prince essary), the Jules Verne is on the of Wales (later King Edward VII second platform. The top platform has a bar, souvenir shop, and the office of Gustave Eiffel. Visitors are unanimous about the splendour of the views over Paris especially one hour before sunset.
The eiffel tower
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through the ages. Each floor is divided into three zones that relate to areas or wings of the palace: Sully, Denon and Richelieu. On the lower ground floor is the Islamic, Egyptian and part of the Greek collection including classic statues from French collections. The ground floor contains Near Eastern, Oriental, Greek, Etruscan and Roman antiquities. The first floor houses Napoleon III’s apartments, Egyptian artefacts and a collection of Italian and French Renaissance paintings. On the second floor is the Dutch and Flemish masters along with French paintings from the Baroque era. There are several entrances. The entrance to the gallery lies below a glass pyramid however the
entrance for the Mona Lisa is at Porte des Lions on the south side of the museum west of the Pont du Carrousel. From there go to the Salles des Etats (room 6) to see her.
Notre dame cathedral
This Gothic masterpiece, located on an island surrounded by the Seinne river, dates back to the 13th century and took 170 years to complete. Pope Alexander III laid the foundation stone in 1163. It is full of stunning stained glass, a huge interior of stunning artistic expression and mystical dimension. Look for the three great rose windows in the north and south walls and
ter the Franco-Prussian War. The name means “mount of martyrs” in rememberance of the martydom of Saint Denis, the first bishop of Paris (late 3rd century) and his colleagues. When war broke out in 1870, the Pope became a prisoner in the Vatican City. France was facing defeat and German occupation. MM Alexandre Legentil and Hubert Rohalut de Fleury saw this as a symptom of spiritual neglect and vowed to build a church consecrated to the Heart of Christ in penitence for sins committed. In 1919 the church was delcared a basilica and is an independent sanctuary.
scend to the crypt for an audio-visual display of the history of the church.
RI S Orsay Museum
This museum, a converted railway station, is situated on the left bank of the River Seine and is home to mainly Westen art dating from 1848-1914. This comprises many Impressionists and post-Impressionists including Van Gogh’s Bedroom at Arles and Eduard Manet’s Le Dejeuner sur L’Herbe and Olympia. There are also large collections of works by Claude Monet, Auguste Renoir, Gauguin, Henri-Toulouse-Lautrec and Paul Cezanne.
in the west wall over the entrance.
In the square in front of Notre Dame is the entrance to the Crypte Archeologique where below ground level, are Roman remains, remnants of medieval streets and a scale model of the city.
Sacred Heart Basilica
It features a huge medieval dome, the A stunning landmark in Montma- second highest point in the city after tre, this 19th century basilica was the Eiffel Tower, from where you can built by the French Government af- see fantastic views. You can also de-
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New york is modern, the face of the developing and western world. People move to New york for a new start, for a chance to follow their dreams. The city that never sleeps, where time is money and ambition is valued more than anything. The hope of the statue of liberty, the pain where the twin towers used to stand, the chic city fashion- you can almost taste the hope and american hustle in the air.
New York City
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By Grace Johnson
Nexus of the Arts
The Met, MoMA and the Guggenheim are just the beginning of a dizzying list of art-world icons. You’ll find museums devoted to everything from fin de siècle Vienna to immigrant life in the Lower East Side, and sprawling galleries filled with Japanese sculpture, postmodern American painting, Himalayan textiles and New York City lore. For a glimpse of current and future greats, delve into the cutting-edge galleries of Chelsea and the Lower East Side, with their myriad exhibition spaces and festive opening-night parties (usually Thursday night if you want to join in).
URBAN WANDERERS
With its compact size and streets packed with eye candy of all sorts – architectural treasures, Old World cafes, atmospheric booksellers – NYC is a wanderer’s delight. Crossing continents is as easy as walking a few avenues in this jumbled city of 200-plus nationalities. You can lose yourself in the crowds of Chinatown amid bright Buddhist temples and
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steaming noodle shops, then stroll up to Nolita for enticing boutiques and coffee-tasting. Every neighborhood offers a dramatically different version of the city, from the 100-year-old Jewish delis of the Upper West Side to the meandering cobblestone lanes of Greenwich Village. And the best way to experience it is to walk its streets.
The Night Is Young
When the sun sinks slowly beyond the Hudson and luminous skyscrapers light up the night, New York transforms into one grand stage. Well-known actors take to the legendary theaters of Broadway and world-class soloists, dancers and musicians perform at venues large and small across town. Whether high culture or low, New York embraces it all: in-your-face rock shows at Williamsburg dives, lavish opera productions at the Lincoln Center, and everything in between. This is a city of experimental theater, improv comedy, indie cinema, ballet, poetry, burlesque, jazz and so much more. If you can dream it up, it’s probably happening.
CULINARY CAPITAL
ing vegetables on roof gardens or upstate farms, sourcing meats and seafood from nearby sustainable outfits, and embracing artisanal everything, from coffee roasting and whiskey distilling to choc-
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olate- and cheese-making. Bars have also taken creativity to new heights, with pre-Prohibition-era cocktails served alongside delectable small plates – indeed, gastropubs are some of the most creative places to eat these days. Of course, you can also hit a gourmet food truck or dine at one of the 20,000-plus sit-down restaurants.
Brooklyn
There’s never been a better time to dine in New York. It’s a hotbed Forget Times Square and the Statof seasonal and locally sourced ue of Liberty – if you want to see cuisine – with restaurants grow- the real New York, you need to head to Brooklyn. These days, the name is shorthand for ‘artsy cool’ the world over, but there’s far more here than hipster stereotypes. This sprawling borough (more than three times the size of Manhattan) is actually home to some of NYC’s most interesting, historic and culturally diverse neighborhoods, with singularly
fantastic dining, drinking, shopping and entertainment options – not to mention some of the best river views in the five boroughs.
Empire state building
This limestone classic was built in just 410 days – using seven million hours of labor during the Great Depression – and the view from its 86th-floor outdoor deck and 102nd-floor indoor deck are seasonal and holiday hues. Famous heavenly. Alas, the queues to the combos include orange, white and green for St Patrick’s Day; blue and white for Chanukah; white, red and green for Christmas; and the rainbow colors for Gay Pride weekend in June. For a full rundown of the color schemes, check the website.
Yc Times square
top are notorious. Getting here very early or very late will help you avoid delays – as will buying your tickets ahead of time online, where the extra $2 convenience fee is well worth the hassle it will save. As one would expect, the views from both decks are especially spectacular at sunset. For a little of that ‘Arthur’s Theme’ magic, head to the 86th floor between 9pm and 1am Thursday to Saturday, when the twinkling sea of lights is accompanied by a soundtrack of live saxophone (requests are welcome).
Love it or hate it, the intersection of Broadway and Seventh Ave (aka Times Square) pumps out the NYC of the global imagination – yellow cabs, golden arches, soaring skyscrapers and razzle-dazzle Broadway marquees. It’s right here that Since 1976, the building’s top 30 Al Jolson ‘made it’ in the 1927 film floors have been floodlit in a spec- The Jazz Singer, that photojourtrum of colors each night, reflecting nalist Alfred Eisenstaedt famous-
ly captured a lip-locked sailor and nurse on V-J Day in 1945, and that Alicia Keys and Jay-Z waxed lyrically about the concrete jungle. For several decades, the dream here was a sordid, wet one. The economic crash of the early 1970s led to a mass exodus of corporations from Times Square. Billboard niches went dark, stores shut and once-grand hotels were converted into SRO (single-room occupancy) dives, attracting the poor and the destitute. What was once an area bathed in light and showbiz glitz became a dirty den of drug dealers and crime. While the adjoining Theater District survived, its respectable playhouses shared the streets with porn cinemas, strip clubs and adult bookstores. That all changed with toughtalking mayor Rudolph Giuliani, who in the 1990s forced out the skin flicks, boosted police numbers and lured in a wave of ‘respectable’ retail chains, restaurants and attractions. By the new millennium, Times Square had gone from X-rated to G-rated, drawing around 50 million visitors annually.
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London
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London is a million things all in one. It is stalwart and fashionable, it’s collected and crazy, it is beautiful and industrial. IT is constant through empires and rulers and the relentless course of time, london has kept calm and carried on. One goes to london to feel like they are a part of something bigger. dont forget to have some tea and crumpets. cheers. 16
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hoods rather than specific sites—try a morning walk through the charming residential streets of Notting Hill and find your way to Portobello Road for antiques (arrive early to avoid the crushing crowds of, yes, tour-
By Virginia Van Zanten Perhaps you’ve done your fair share of traveling but somehow, other than layovers at Heathrow, have never planned a proper visit to London. Travel veterans for whom, say, a long weekend jaunt to Hong Kong isn’t out of the question but who are also visiting for the first time face a challenge: how to see the best of London without reverting to being a guidebook-toting, Madame Tussauds– visiting tourist. Here, clever ways to see the city while avoiding the traps.
ists), then grab a bite to go at Gail’s Artisan Bakery if you’re peckish or sit down for a proper meal inspired by Japanese, Korean, and Scandinavian cuisine at Flat Three (lunch is served on Friday and Saturday only).
Or maybe build a day around ever-trendy East London for shopping (look out for massive markets like the one that pops up weekly on Plan your visit in terms of neighbor- Brick Lane), people-watching, and great eating (try Leila’s Shop for breakfast or Lyle’s for a lovely lunch). For contrast, pop over to Mayfair for a turn through one of London’s most exclusive neighborhoods. Vis-
Prepare to walk—a lot
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it Gymkhana for northern Indian cuisine so elegant it earned a Michelin star, or stop in William & Son for a thoughtfully curated variety of jewelry, clothing, home decor, and a walk through its collection of stunning shotguns and rifles.
Take a Hop-On-Hop-Off bus
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Yes, the “hoho” buses are for tour-
ists. And that’s okay. You, the wise traveler, will use it as a clever way to see lots of touristy sites with a minimal amount of schlepping. Board early in the morning with a cup of coffee and a pastry and grab a prime seat. The grand loop routes will take you past just about all of the most popular sites (Big Ben and Parliament, Buckingham Palace, and the like) so you can get a look without having to actually hop off and brave the crowds. The bus will empty out at the London Eye. Exchange a knowing smile with your travel companion as you stay firmly in your seat.
hotels
If you’re looking for a charming, au-
thentic London experience, The Goring is where Kate Middleton spent her last night before the royal wedding (it’s conveniently just a stone’s throw from the royal gardens and Buckingham Palace). The decor is traditional without feeling stuffy (the hand-painted Fromental wallpaper in the lobby is what Instagram dreams are made of), and the delicious breakfasts might turn you into a morning person. The 106-year-old family-owned property also features a sizable private garden hidden away behind the building—a Sure, tourists visit London’s many perfect place to enjoy its famed tea. museums, but the locals do, too. And while you may get stuck in the For a bit of modern polish, opt for crowds, there always seem to be quiet nooks and crannies in even the most popular of museums. The National Portrait Gallery never feels overrun, and the on-site Portrait Restaurant is a superb spot for tea and stunning views of London’s most famous sites (the Houses of Parliament, Big Ben, and Trafalgar Square, among others). The Wallace Collection—a museum of French
Visit the museums
do
the Grosvenor House Suites in Mayfair—this all-suite property is a calm, sleek oasis with rooms overlooking Hyde Park or the streets of Mayfair. For larger families or longer stays, the penthouse apartments offer ample space, and all rooms come equipped with a full kitchen (the staff can arrange to have it stocked upon your arrival). The property is 18th-century paintings, furniture, also quite close to some of the best porcelain, and an impressive armory shopping and restaurants in the city. housed in a historic London townhouse—isn’t always at the top of visitors’ lists, and that’s part of its appeal.
Get out of town
Once you’ve had your share of the London bustle, do yourself a favor and head out of town for a breather. If you have the time, take a trip a bit further afield and spend a quiet weekend in the countryside. But if you’re a bit pressed, hop on the Tube (about 40 minutes) and take a day trip to one of the city’s delightful suburbs. Visit the famous Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew and Kew Palace. For lunch or just a cup of tea, stop in at the stunning Petersham Nurseries Café, and don’t leave without ordering dessert.
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just go