#Local Is Lekker Expensive: The cost of sustainability

Vuyiswa Fumba

Boycott Shein, boycott Mr Price...and H&M, Cotton On, and PEP! Factory workers are sewing “help me” on the inseams of fuzzy sweaters, which has sparked an overwhelming feeling of consumer guilt as well as online discussions about responsible parties and possible solutions. The topic of fast fashion continues to gain traction, and many consumers have been awakened to the effect of their shopping choices. “Did you really think you could buy a graphic tee for R40 and nobody was suffering in the process? How are they all getting paid?” Haibo! Is everyone responsible? What is the solution to this issue that is deeply affecting workers’ lives and wellbeing, and the environment? Most pressingly, should I burn my Shein order when it arrives, or return it to the sender?

PDBY interviewed final-year BConSci (Clothing Retail Management) student Kiara Watchorn on the topic of fast fashion and the shift toward sustainability. She defines fast fashion as cheap, trendy, poorly-made clothing that goes in accelerated cycles of mass production and disposal. The nature of fast fashion is to respond to rapidly changing consumer tastes as quickly as possible. This causes several ethical concerns, like the negative effect of overconsumption on the environment and the question of whether or not workers are being paid liveable wages.

How does fast fashion affect the regular South African shopper?

“It can affect them in two ways. Most of the time for a regular South African, fast fashion is the only way to get clothing. It makes buying clothing accessible to everybody and gives them choices between different styles to find the best option for themselves. Oftentimes, people buying fast fashion will use those items for a long time, so it becomes technically beneficial to the average consumer. It is an affordable option for most people in South Africa, and in this economy you cannot expect people not to support fast fashion.”

However, the negative effects include the depletion of the production of clothing within South Africa, which has resulted in job losses. There is the environmental aspect – the fashion industry is one of the biggest polluters in the world. Regarding this, the World Economic Forum estimates that 10% of global carbon emissions is caused by the fashion industry.

Furthermore, textile dyeing is the world’s second-largest polluter of water because the water is often dumped into rivers. Ultimately, the rise of fast fashion only exacerbates these negative environmental effects.

How can people minimise the harm caused by their fashion choices?

Watchorn suggests building an adaptable wardrobe: find a pair of good jeans, plain t-shirts, clothes that are versatile, can be worn often and for a long time. Thinking of new ways to wear the clothes you already have will help you keep them for longer. Figuring out your personal style will help you consume less because you will not just buy everything. “Look at where your clothes are made. If you are at Mr Price or Pick ’n Pay and you see that the clothing was made in South Africa, rather than China (for instance), rather buy that because at least it is supporting the South African economy. Rather Mr Price than Shein. Though they are both fast fashion brands, there is always an option that is the lesser evil.”

Watchorn also advises learning to repair your clothes instead of throwing them out if they are still in repairable condition. Not only can you keep your favourite items in your closet for longer and save money, but you can also help minimise the environmental effects of constant buying. Think about where your clothes are going after you are no longer wearing them. If there is an old top that cannot be reworked to wear again, it can be used as a rag. If the clothes can be upcycled to create something new, like a skirt from an old jean, there are many guidebooks or YouTube videos that can teach that skill. If the clothes are in good condition, consider donating them. In 2022, Fly@UP facilitated a thrift drive where students could drop off unwanted clothing items in bins across campus, and later students who wanted to shop for preloved clothes could do so free of charge. In the sustainable fashion model, everything works cyclically, so an old T-shirt that has outlived its use is recycled and made into a new T-shirt that will last for years and add value to the life and closet of its wearer.

“Lastly, think about the people making your clothes. Sewing is a skill that takes considerable effort to learn, and there is a need being provided for. Whereas other professions are paid a respectable living wage (plumbers, bankers, etc), the people who make the clothes that every human being wears are often subjected to horrid conditions and peanuts’ worth of pay.” Some companies take the initiative to forthrightly state their sustainability strategies, while others opt not to. It is up to each person to choose whether sustainability is an important factor of their consumption choices.

What would you say to people who do not think they have a role to play in this discussion?

If the fast fashion industry continues to gain traction the way that it has in the past few years, job opportunities will continue to lessen and everyone might be personally affected at some point. Still, it is important to consider the real people who are affected by your fashion choices. Watchorn said, “I like to ask people to imagine themselves in that position, and the reality is that if you do think of it, it doesn’t affect you. Just like if you don’t think of it, it does not affect you at all. But it can affect the person that makes the clothing items. So if consumers choose not to support a certain brand because they pay their workers poorly, then maybe they will start paying them fair wages due to consumer influence. That is the best that can happen, and the worst that can happen is that you don’t have that T-shirt.” If we have an individualistic “it’s not my problem” mindset, then we cannot expect other people to care when we are on the other side, needing their help. Watchorn added, “If people stop caring about each other, then what’s the point?”

In an interview with John Maytham of 702 radio, Mark Sumner, a sustainability lecturer at the University of Leeds, commented that clothing is not only necessary from a modesty standpoint, it is also really important as a means to demonstrate who we are and communicate about our lifestyle. We use it as non-verbal cues for our status, state of mind and our position in society. Conversations about sustainability often lead to objections about how expensive sustainable brands are, but ethical consumption starts with what you have and not what you have to buy. Maximising the use of the clothes you already own, donating what you do not use, and researching sustainability efforts of brands before you shop are great ways to inch towards sustainability without paying R1200 for a cropped denim jacket. However, if the jacket will last five years, maybe then R1200 will be worth it?

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Image: Provided