Raja Ampat, the last paradise on earth

from Perfect Diver Magazine 13 issue

FREEDIVING

Close your eyes and imagine the various shades of the blue stretching on the horizon, tropical sun rays stroking your skin, salty, gentle breeze in your hair and tiny islets like divine rock fragments scattered around crystal clear water. And below the surface, you can see an underwater Eden. The harmony of nature, where each inhabitant has a specific purpose and place. I have just transferred you to Raja Apmat.

It is a far east Indonesian archipelago and at the same time a nature reserve that is administratively located in the province of West Papua, on the so-called Bird's Head Peninsula. This

Borneo

Celebes WAIGEO

BATANTA

KOFIAU SALAWATI NEW GUINEA

MISOOL

New Guinea

charming corner of Indonesia, known for its paradise beaches and rich coral reefs, offers magical landscapes above and below the water surface. It should be one of the top places on any diver's wish list. Raja Ampat, meaning the Four Kings, consists of four main islands. According to legend, the kings hatched from dragon eggs and each of them settled on one of the larger islands, the remains of the crust turned into rocks that are so abundant in this region. On Waigeo you can admire Indonesia's one-of-a-kind crimson birds of paradise, Misool boasts a heart-shaped bay and ancient cave paintings, the other two are Batanta and Salawati surrounded by an archipelago of randomly scattered smaller islands and islets, over a thousand in total, covered with jungle with most of them are uninhabited by humans.

Regardless of whether your passion is diving, snorkeling, long journeys or you are simply someone who is able to appreciate the beauty of nature, Raja Ampat will satisfy you in every way by offering a substitute for paradise on earth. Travelling from Poland, be prepared for a rather exhausting, but worth the effort journey. When you get there, I guarantee that you will forget about any inconveniences and you will get impressed by the heavenly landscape that this secluded part of the world offers. You must start your adventure with Raja Ampat right after arriving in Indonesia. It is best to fly to Bali or Jakarta and from here plan a flight to Sorong, the main port, which is the gate to the park (unfortunately, there are no direct flights from Bali yet, so expect a stop somewhere in Sulawesi). Sorong is a port city, crowded and guarantees a serious culture shock, so I do not recommend staying there for longer. From here you can fly to the capital of Raja Ampat, the small town of Waisai (the Marinda airport), jump on a liveaboard, as many of them dock in the bay, or catch a boat to one of the

larger islands. It is best to arrange everything before you come with a tour operator you will be diving with.

Saying goodbye to Sorong and entering the paradise corner of the world which is Raja Ampat, put down your mobile phone (in most places there is no coverage anyway), allow yourself to completely relax and commune with nature. Forget about the gray reality of mundane matters thousands of kilometers away and indulge your underwater passion. A holiday here is like a journey through time, where the local people continue to live the same rhythm from more than a century ago, dealing with fishing and farming. The charms of Raja Ampat are best discovered from the so-called liveaboard due to the fact that you can afford further escapades deep into the park. It is quite an expensive option, but worth any price. For more than 10 days, you live in a floating hotel, moving from place to place, diving, snorkeling, admiring picturesque sunsets, savoring the delicacies of local cuisine, or climbing the nearby peaks of deserted islands.

In addition, sometimes you feel that you and your crew are the only people on earth, surrounded by pristine nature, admiring the same landscape as the famous explorer Alfred Russel Walles when he travelled these routes in the 19th century. And if you want to live on a boat, you need to stay on one that is in itself a work of art created with passion, combining the Indonesian tradition with luxury. The Pacific High Indonesia fleet guarantees a unique adventure tailored to your needs. Depending on your interests, financial resources and free time, the crew will design a unique dream trip for you. Imagine getting up in the morning and going out on deck with a mug of delicious Indonesian coffee, to be greeted by dolphins playing on the blue tones of the sea seen only on Impressionist canvases. Pacific High Indonesia offers tours not only in Raja Ampat, but also Komodo and the hidden Banda Sea islands. It is a perfect combination of experience, technology and tradition. Their sailing ships are built in the traditional Indonesian style called pinisi, inscribed in the UNESCO List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. Yann, the co-founder of the company and at the same time a boatbuilding amateur, personally ensures that every detail is perfected. You will feel it from the very first time you board a ship.

Their great advantage is not only a unique sea adventure, but also care for the environment. Each cruise follows the pro-ecological zero-waste philosophy. The wood, the main building material of the sailing ships, is sourced from sustainable plantations in Kalimantan and Sulawesi, and some of the proceeds from the trip and sale go to thicken tropical forests in Borneo.

Yann considers himself primarily a boatbuilder and sailor, and his fascination with the underwater world ranks second in his life. His love and passion can be seen in every detail. Travelling through this extraordinary corner, where time has stood still, on the traditional Indonesian finisi it guarantees an unforgettable experience and fabulous landscapes filling the time between dives. What distinguishes the Raja Ampat liveaboard tour is that as you dive you are usually the only group in the water and thus have unique interactions with the underwater nature. Under the surrounding blue, you will experience an explosion of colours of flowering coral reefs creating a kaleidoscope of unique formations and shapes, pleasing the eyes of even the most demanding enthusiasts of the underwater nature. With What distinguishes the Raja Ampat liveaboard tour is that as you dive you are usually the only group in the water and thus have unique interactions with the underwater nature.

each dive you move into the frame of the blue planet, the sea world comes to life in front of your eyes revealing all secrets, as if someone had pressed the PLAY button.

Surrounded by treasures of nature, with a voice describing the amazing species of fish coming from all sides, Raja Ampat is love at first dive for me.

The abundance of species of fish and corals, schools of fusiliers and trevallies gracefully float in the currents, giving way only to larger specimens of humpback wrasses, bumphead parrotfish and rays. Shy tiny seahorses with all their strength twist their tails around the coral to prevent them from being

blown away by the current, and right next to them, without much effort, white and blacktip sharks patrol the reef for something to eat.

If you prefer the mainland instead of living in a limited space of a sailing ship, then you should definitely go to Misool. On one of the main islands, in an isolated part of Raja Ampat, there is Misool Resort. It is a tropical hideaway far from any civilization, hidden between an archipelago of deserted islands. Wherever the eye can see, you will be amazed by golden beaches and virgin coral reefs. Misool Resort offers a luxurious escape from civilization and a unique underwater experience.

By staying here, you support a foundation that contributed to the protection of the national park by establishing the socalled No-take-zone, zones where fishing is prohibited. The foundation founded by Andrew and Marit Miners supports patrol boats that chase away potential poachers 365 days a year. As a result, there has been a 200% increase in the natural environment of the surrounding coral reefs and nearby mangroves over the past five years.

There are over 40 diving sites around the island, and the farthest one is approx. 15 minutes away by motorboat. They are diverse in terms of topography, so everyone will find some-

thing for themselves. Walls, gentle slopes covered with hard coral, underwater ridges reaching a depth of over 50 meters, lagoons, will please not only divers but also snorkelers, making this destination ideal for family holidays.

What can we see after submerging under the surface of the warm water? Oh my goodness, what miracles! Ocean rays, white and whitetip and blacktip sharks, gray sharks, wobbegongs, eupaulette sharks found only in this region, and many other wonderful specimens. The lucky ones may even encounter a whale shark or a passing hammerhead shark. For those traveling on a budget, south of Gam there is a little dot on the map. It is an islet called Arborek. Here you will find several homestays and the Arborek Dive Center run by the lovely couple Marsel and Gita, whose experienced crew will gladly take you snorkeling around the nearby coral reefs. It will take you less than half an hour to walk around the island, and the sight of the crystal clear waters surrounding all sides will soothe your senses. You can arrange transportation from Waisai by speedboat just before arrival, the price depends on the number of guests, as you know, the more the cheaper. Traditional wooden bungalows are located right on the beach, so you will be rocked to sleep by the sound of waves, only to be greeted the next morning by an explosion of blue.

Raja Ampat is an ideal place for diving enthusiasts, because it is here that there is a variety of species not found anywhere else in the world. No wonder the number of divers exceeds all expectations and you will easily find places for immersion with a cylinder or even just with a snorkel. Among them, the small Strait of Kabui between the islands of Waigeo and Gam is known for its strong sea currents, where the magical landscapes created by shoals of fish surround you from each side to slip away from a hunting tuna in a fraction of a moment. Another highlight is Kawe, divespot located right on the equator. So you can moor on one side of the Earth's hemisphere to sail to the other. Raja Ampat offers everything every diver can only dream of, strong sea currents that will make the descent into the water very exciting and full of impressions. If you are passionate about macro, numerous bays offer the opportunity to search for small sea horses in the coral reef, nudibranchs of rainbow colours or anglerfish. You will find five-metre ocean stingrays, sharks, turtles, giant clams and plenty of other equally stunning species.

However, countless islands are not just a paradise for divers. The time spent on the surface is full of charming vantage points, to which you often have to climb through a jungle with the colours of green so juicy that this word takes on a real

meaning. In addition, on the road you can meet monkeys and colourful paradise birds of Indonesia. There is a great prize at the top. Looking down, mother nature presents its best work of art, giving us a chance to see a piece of paradise. The vantage point of Wayag Island is not only breathtaking, but will accompany you long after successful holidays. It is also a great attraction to visit local villages like Arborek on the island Waigeo, where the villagers will welcome you with a traditional dance and music from Papuan tribes. The choreography describes the history of the natives, their life based on fishing and cultivating land, living according to nature. You can take part in workshops of local ornamental art, making hats and baskets, all made of natural plastics, seagrass and plants surrounding this small village.

It is an amazing place on earth, it is like an endless story, at every turn revealing something new, anyone can be an explorer here and find a piece of land or reef that no one has seen before. Raja and its archipelago is one of the few magical corners of this world that is relentlessly captivating despite the passage of time.

Additional information:

Where to stay in Raja Ampat: www.stayrajaampat.com Pacific High Indonesia: www.pacifichighcruise.com @pacifichigh_indonesia Misool Resort: www.misool.info @misool.resort Misool Foundation: www.misoolfoundation.org Arborek Dive Shop: www.arborekrajaampat.wordpress.com/arborekdiveshop Direct flight from: Dżakarty (Jawa), Makasar, Manodo (Sulawesi) Ambon, Jayapura (Papua)