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Shoals of herring, matriarchy of killer whales and humpback whales / Perfect Diver Magazine 19 issue
Shoals of herring, matriarchy of killer whales and humpback whales
OR NORWEGIAN WINTER BEYOND THE ARCTIC CIRCLE
Planet earth
Text and photos KLAUDYNA BRZOSTOWSKA
Norway's fjords are becoming a temporary home for humpback whales, fin whales and killer whales, which search the fjords to satisfy hunger. The chances of meeting these animals are high and the November event attracts tourists and photographers from all over the world. The northern part of Norway is also one of the few places on Earth where you can still dive with killer whales.
This year I had the opportunity to go on a week-long cruise in the fjords beyond the Arctic Circle to photograph killer whales. For seven days, my base was a 22-meter tall sailing ship called Duen III. The purpose of the expedition was to dive with killer whales. Each day looked more or less the same: waking up at 7:00, breakfast, dressing in dry or wet suit (I preferred wetsuit as it allowed me to dive freely), leaving the port and looking for animals, interacting with killer whales in the water, returning to the sailing ship and resting.
The whole group took an active part in the morning search for animals. Everyone was trying to spot black fins that could suddenly emerge from the stormy water. Sometimes we stood on the deck at -16°C for hours trying to spot at least one whale. Limited daylight, waves, wind and a large area made finding killer whales a real challenge. Once the black and white predators were spotted, all of us got into the RIB in full readiness. The skipper swam as close as possible to the animals and when we managed to find a family of killer whales who were curious about our presence, we went down calmly into the water. It was important to calmly and slowly enter the water and then wait for the whales to come closer to us. They are extremely intelligent creatures, curious about what is happening around them, and whenever they feel like it and are not discouraged by loud splashes, they often interact with people.
There have been individuals who were reluctant to interact and drifted away quickly, but there were occasions when a curious pod would come closer and closer and, with a bit of luck, killer whales could be admired for a long time. The spectacle everyone is waiting for is the moment when the killer whales hunt herring. Then the whole pod hunts for fish, the water becomes cloudy from the remains, and happy divers can admire an unusual event up close, which sometimes lasts for hours.
The killer whale (Orcinus orca), undoubtedly the most dangerous predator of the oceans, is found in seas all over the world. The Norwegian killer whale population is estimated at 2,000 individuals, making it the second largest killer whale population in the world. They feed mainly on herring, which in winter flows to the north of Norway in huge quantities. These predators are known for their interesting and sophisticated hunting strategies. When hunting herring, they use the methods called carousel fishing and lobtailing. The killer whales group a shoal of fish into a tight ball and wait for the right moment to attack. When this occurs, they stun the fish with a blow of their massive tail. In the end, they collect unconscious victims, piece by piece. Interestingly, the killer whales do not swallow the herring whole. They bite each fish separately at the base of the head and, clenching their jaws appropriately, bite off only a part of the fish, leaving the head and bones in the water.
In November, Norwegian waters are 4°C, the outside temperature is -15°C and the winds blow quite often. In such conditions, a few hours on a RIB in soaked wetsuit sounds like madness. The body loses heat quickly and it can be really cold. However, if you survive the Spartan conditions and are lucky on a given day, free diving among killer whales is a truly magical experience. The photographer Julia Ochs, who was on board, described the event in this way: When I boarded the RIB, I was prepared that for the next hours I would not feel my fingers and toes. I knew that only the power of my mind could help me overcome the drastic cold. At -16°C and in freezing winds, there was no doubt that it would be incredibly cold. Especially when you wear a 5-milimetre soaked wetsuit. I knew that as soon as I enter the water and the killer whales appear, I will forget about the cold. And so it was.
LOCATION: Skjervøy, Norway
SEASON: November (it is worth booking a place with the operator several months in advance)
ANIMALS TO SPOT: killer whales, humpback whales, fin whales, less often pilot whales
EQUIPMENT: ABC, wet or dry suit
FLIGHT FROM POLISH: to Tromso and then by bus (3 hours)
PERFECTDIVER No. 1(19)/2022 69
