7 minute read
SUMBAWA. A GIANT SHARK ADVENTURE
Text LAURA KAZIMIERSKA
Photos ONE FOR THE ROAD PRODUCTIONS
If you're interested in the company of gentle giants, be sure to deviate from the marked route to visit Sumbawa.
Sumbawa is an Indonesian island located east of Lombok. Although still quite wild, in recent years it has been gaining popularity. It is hardly surprising. Like many other islands in Indonesia, it offers a beautiful and sandy coastline, waterfalls, as well as surfing and diving possibilities. What sets it apart from others is the easy access from nearby Bali or Lombok, but also the huge attraction of snorkelling or diving with whale sharks regardless of the season.
The whale shark is the largest fish in the animal kingdom. It impresses not only by its size, but also by its characteristic coloration. The white spots on the body of these giants form a unique pattern, like our fingerprints. It is extremely helpful for identifying individuals and tracking their oceanic voyages. The whale shark is constantly on the move, spending on average half of its life feeding by filtering plankton through its thousands of thin teeth, and can dive to depths of under 2,000 meters. Scientists openly admit that many aspects of these majestic sharks' lives still remain a mystery. What is certain is that places where whale sharks can be seen attract millions of tourists from all over the world.
It is those “millions” of tourists who have always repelled me from visiting this type of attractions. As well as the fact that in many places sharks are terrorised by excited tourists, and you can often see the wounds on their bodies caused by collisions with speedboats. Because of this, I wasn't sure what to expect when organising a trip to Sumbawa.
The adventure started on Gili Trawangan early in the morning. A small motorboat took us to Lombok where a local driver was already waiting in a car. After four hours we arrived at Labuan Kayangan, the port where a ferry departs for Sumbawa. For a small fee, you can rent a mattress on the ship and take a nap in the company of the locals. The picturesque landscape of small islands unfolds after an hour's crossing to the other shore and then another couple of hours spent in the car to get there.
Sumbawa has a magical atmosphere of a tropical paradise that many seek in vain in Bali. Lush, tropical vegetation mingles with corn-covered hills. You won't see five-star hotels or restaurants here. In many places, even right on the beach, you can pitch a tent and spend the night looking at the stars without seeing a living soul.
We did not spend the night outdoors, but in a traditional Indonesian house. We were greeted with a traditional dinner which we ate on the floor in the company of the whole family. Indonesian hospitality reminds me very much of ours, the more you eat the more you please the hostess. Receiving guests from abroad is a great honour for the average Indonesian, so after the meal, half the village was invited, along with the mayor to welcome us. And to take hundreds of photos of course!
Bules (as Indonesians call foreign people) are a rare sight in Labu Jambu.
The next day, still at dusk and still sleepy, we loaded into a fishing boat and headed out into the waters of Saleh Bay in the hope of coming face to face with the largest shark. Whale Sharks feed in the shallow waters of the bay just after sunrise.
Whale sharks appeared in the bay almost 10 years ago. They were most likely attracted by the so-called Kapal Bagan, the fishing boats. The remains of the catch thrown overboard, and the smell of fresh prawns is a very tempting option for the lazy giants. Fishermen began to complain about these somewhat intimidating hungry creatures attacking their nets, so they tried to scare them away. Until a local tourist organisation started an education and funding programme making everyone aware of the huge potential of protecting these creatures.
The topic of feeding sharks is very controversial. Many environmentalists believe that it may disrupt the migration route and thus the reproduction. On the other hand, the financial benefits of diving and snorkelling tourism motivate efforts to protect the species that so often falls prey to industries exporting their fins to the Asian food market.
The refreshing morning breeze and strong coffee quickly set us on our feet as we sailed closer to one of the many Kapal Bagan scattered in the bay, the fishermen were just starting to pull up their nets. The sunrise and the surrounding landscape were breathtaking. We waited in suspense to see what would happen next. Suddenly we hear the shouts of excited
fishermen. At the same moment a huge fin appeared right under our small boat. We quickly jumped into the water. One, then two, then three, suddenly six, seven giants headed for the net. Their huge but cute mouths filter the murky shrimp water, and they disappear into the depths of the ocean only to reappear a moment later for another portion of fishy delicacies.
Tears of joy filled my mask and two hours in their company felt like several minutes.
There was no hoard of tourists, no speedboats, it was just us, five overjoyed divers surrounded by mother nature's extraordinary creations dancing around us in the blue.
To this day, my close encounter with this majestic creature makes my heart beat faster and makes me feel butterflies in my stomach. Our quick trip to Sumbawa proved to be an unforgettable adventure worth recommending to anyone.
The whale shark is listed on the IUCN Red List as an endangered species. In Indonesia, it is fully protected under the Ministerial Decree No. 18 of 2013. However, research on whale sharks in the area is still scarce. The lack of knowledge about them prevents its proper conservation. In Sumbawa, a non-governmental organisation for the conservation of marine species is working with fishermen and the tourism board to introduce appropriate regulations to protect, and at the same time, study the behaviour of these gentle giants.
HERE YOU WILL FIND SEVERAL RULES TO FOLLOW WHEN DIVING WITH WHALE SHARKS:
´ Do not touch, pursue, or harass the whale shark.
´ Do not swim in front of it or block its path, let it swim freely.
´ Do not use equipment that could disturb or harm the whale shark, such as cameras with intense flash, underwater scooters etc.
´ Do not dive under a shark. Scientists say that whale sharks have very sensitive stomachs and do not like the bubbles we exhale.
´ Maintain a minimum distance of 3 metres.
If you are interested and dream of a trip to Sumbawa let us know at: info@oceanadvocates.com
