UNUSUAL UNDERWATER MEETINGS

UNUSUAL UNDERWATER MEETINGS

Text Anna Sołoducha

Photo Piotr Szczodrak

RAJA AMPAT CAN BE DIVIDED INTO THREE MAIN AREAS: MISOOL IN THE SOUTH, DAMPIER STRAIT IN THE CENTER, AND WAYAG AND KAWE ISLANDS IN THE NORTH. EVER SINCE SCIENTISTS BEGAN THEIR RESEARCH IN THIS AREA IN THE 1980S AND 1990S, IT HAS BECOME CLEAR THAT THE NUMBER OF DIFFERENT SPECIES FOUND HERE IS UNUSUAL.

Its location at the very far northern end of the Indonesian archipelago, exactly where a massive stream of warm water from the Pacific flows into the archipelago, along with its topography and geological history, has made Raja Ampat an ideal breeding ground for an astonishing number of species.

Safari on the waters surrounding the archipelago is like a fairy tale. Views and landscapes are absolutely dazzling. Islets overgrown with lush greenery, cliffs, mangroves, sounds of birds and bats flying overhead create a magical aura. During the 10-day safari, we did 31 dives – can you believe that?! What is more, each dive was worth going under the water! :)

Raja Ampat means abundance. Abundance of fish, species of corals, sponges, vegetation. Batfish, jackfish, various types of octopus including the beautiful "blue – ringed octopus", giant lobsters, Spanish mackerel, barracudas, huge, majestic turtles, devil fish, scorpion fish, crocodile fish... we can go on naming them endlessly. Moray eels hid in rocks, and black-and-white clown fish defended their offspring in anemones. The topography of the places is usually similar, but during each dive we are surprised by something new. You can have an irresistible urge to spin your head around as there is always something "you can't miss ";) Not small schools of humphead parrotfish – often confused with the humphead wrasses beguiled many of our dives. Black – and whitetip sharks appeared from time to time, distracting us from what was happening on the reef. It is impossible not to mention the stunning macro world.

There are innumerable species, colours and sizes of critters –that is, small sea creatures. Nudibranchs (I had never seen so many types in my life!!), crabs, shrimps… the macro world is overwhelming, both by day and by night. Night diving on Raja Ampat is a real rarity.

Photo Piotr Szczodrak

Photo Anna Sołoducha

As of 2013, the entire 46,000 square kilometres of Raja Ampat has been a shark sanctuary. This means that when diving in this region, you can see a real multitude of them. We will see blacktip sharks, whitetip sharks and tope reef sharks here. But the species to be mentioned is the carpet sharks –Wobbegong. It is the species with flattened body with a wide and flat head. The skin folds on both sides of the mouth create a characteristic "beard". The carpet shark is one of the rarest sharks and is about 3 m long. Located in the shallow temperate and tropical waters of the western Pacific Ocean and the eastern Indian Ocean, it is most commonly found in Australia and Indonesia, and in particular on Raja Ampat. It is far from the powerful, fearsome, torpedo image we have of most sharks. This decorative shark has a flat body that is well camouflaged with wide colour spots to match the surrounding reef. As they have the ability to pump water through the gills, they do not need to swim constantly and therefore spend most of their lives lying motionless at the bottom of the reef. They are completely harmless, you could even lie next them ;) The second species of shark worthy of distinction is the "epaulette shark", better known as the "walking shark". It's a shark that uses its abdominal paired fins to “crawl” on the bottom. It doesn't mean, however, that it can't swim! This is a rare specimen because apart from Raja Ampat, I have only seen it once at Galapagos.

Photo Piotr Szczodrak

For enthusiasts of underwater photography, it will be helpful to know that macro or muck dives ("muck" is characterised by shallower dives and spending time on the sandy bottom, where the fun is finding hidden strange creatures) will work perfectly in this part of Indonesia. Pygmy seahorses, Ghost pipefish or a staggering number of species of nudibranches are a treat for fans of macro photography. Dwarf seahorses are probably the smallest macro-type species found on Raja Ampat, and indeed they are, as they measured about 0.5 cm by 1.5 cm. Noticing these seahorses requires a lot of skill, but if you see them – your joy is endless.

Photo Anna Sołoducha

The last species that cannot be omitted or left unseen when diving in West Papua – is the manta ray. One of the most famous places to meet these gentle giants is “Manta Sandy”. Huge, majestic, flying. Such were the manta rays on Raja Ampat. There are both black reef manta rays and the largest – giant oceanic manta rays, as well as rays and devil fish. Oceanic manta rays have a wingspan of 5 to 7 meters. Diving with manta rays of this size gliding over you explains exactly why their name comes from the Spanish word “la manta” meaning "blanket". It is interesting that dive guides try to recognise manta rays – by photographing them. Special software analyses the abdominal part of each individual by checking whether the manta ray is already in the database, or if it is a new, unknown to researchers yet creature! The photographs remain in the database to be compared with subsequent photographs of the encountered mantas. The method of mantra recognition was created by the Manta Trust.

Photo Anna Sołoducha

Photo Anna Sołoducha

PIANEMO

In addition to what happens underwater, the land part can also give you a surprise. Raja Ampat is known as the “coral islands” and one of them is Pianemo. The limestone islands in this area are nothing more than a geological record of physical phenomena that began about 15 million years ago and continue to this day. Today we admire a lagoon in the shape of a five-pointed star, created as a result of the collapse of underground caves. The communities surrounding Pianemo call this island “Little Wayag”. This is because if you look at this area from above, you will notice that this group of islands resembles the miniature Wayag Island. A walk to the viewpoint from which we could admire the lagoon with limestone formations is a must during our stay on Raja Ampat.

Photo Anna Sołoducha

Photo Anna Sołoducha

Today we admire a lagoon in the shape of a five-pointed star, created as a result of the collapse of underground caves. The communities surrounding Pianemo call this island “Little Wayag”.

Photo Anna Sołoducha

JELLYFISH LAKE

There is another unique place in this archipelago. Few destinations in the world can boast of such a phenomenon as… Jellyfish Lake. We sail towards a tiny, uninhabited island, hidden in the Papuan jungle. Here, a dense curtain of cliffs overgrown with rainforest shields the lagoon which houses a rare and beautiful ecosystem. At first glance, the island seems inaccessible, surrounded by a sharp limestone karst. With the help of our Indonesian guides, we climb on slippery boulders and overcome a steep, quite demanding hike and climb, finally reaching the beautiful lake, hidden in the heart of the land. Jellyfish Lake is one of only three places on our planet where jellyfish' nematocysts are devoid of their stinging properties. Living in isolation from predators, they got rid of these protective properties. The most famous representatives of these freshwater jellyfish species are: giant golden jellyfish, moon jellyfish and Cassiopea jellyfish. We snorkel in the lake equipped with masks, tubes and diving shoes as well as photo and video equipment. Tiny jellyfish circle around us and then head to the deeper parts of the lake. You can touch them, film them, face them – they are completely harmless, and swimming with them is an unforgettable experience.

BIRDS FROM PARADISE

Raja Ampat is not only one of the richest marine environments on Earth, with breathtaking landscapes, but also home to many bird species; more than 250 birds have been recorded on the islands of Raja Ampat. The most famous are the red bird of paradise (endemic species!) and Wilson's bird of paradise. I encourage you to take an early-morning trip to the tropical forest to see and hear these wonderful birds. It is one of the iconic symbols of Papua. These birds have appeared in the mythologies of many cultures, and some indigenous people see the birds of paradise as ghosts representing their deceased ancestors. Others believe that they are the physical embodiment of the mythological creatures that inhabit the forests. Feathers were also used by the natives to decorate the body during weddings. Many traditional dances were inspired by the birds-of-paradise courtship shows, which can still be observed among the local community. When courtshipping females, males of red birds of paradise perform a beautiful show, fanning and dancing with brightly coloured wings, plumes and tails.

Photo Anna Sołoducha

Photo Anna Sołoducha

Raja Ampat is a diving Mount Everest. This is the place where every dream comes true. Dreams and beautiful water, full of magnificent, colourful reefs, but also great representatives of the dreams of every diver: seahorses, manta rays, barracudas, Wobbegong sharks... does all this leave any doubts whether diving here is worthwhile? The water here hums with life.

Photo Piotr Szczodrak

Photo Piotr Szczodrak

Photo Anna Sołoducha

BEST TIME TO DIVE

October – March (and the best is December-March) is the perfect time to dive into the Raja Ampat Archipelago!

DIVE CONDITIONS AND WATER TEMPERATURE

Expect currents – which at the same time results in a lot of “life” underwater, and take reef hooks with you! The water temperature is usually 30°C !

IMPORTANT!

The currency you will use during your stay on Raja Ampat is the Indonesian rupee. You are going to be a millionaire for a while!:) Please exchange your currency before arriving in Sorong because there is no possibility to do so, and any currency other than Indonesian currency will not be accepted on the boat, in resorts, restaurants and shops.

Photo Anna Sołoducha

Photo Piotr Szczodrak