ISSUE #6 SEPTEMBER 2010 FREE TO SUBSCRIBE
BARKING MAD ~ CATS MEOW~ FEATHERED FRIENDS ~ KIDS PAGE PET PAPARAZZI ~ FEATURE ARTICLE ~ PET GOURMET ~ Q & A
Sunny 207591 at AWL Shelter RoadSunny is a beautiful natured 6 year old Greyhound that arrived as a stray. Although no history is known to us, Sunny’s disposition is happy and extremely playful for his breed. Sunny would be a wonderful family addition - great for children as he is very gentle and quiet and would make a beautiful companion. Sunny even has his own Youtube video. He can be adopted for $220. ->
COVER ART “MONTY” By the AWL Gold Coast
Lyn Lyn 900890 at AWL Beautiful Lyn Lyn was a stray that arrived with 6 adorable kittens to the AWL in January. They have all since found their new homes’ and Lyn Lyn is hoping to be just as lucky! She can be adopted for $70.
All AWL animals are de sexed, micro chipped, vaccinated, wormed, flea treated, health and sociability checked. In addition to this, our animals have a 10 day health guarantee (covering any illness arising as a result of having been in our care), and a 21 day ‘settling-in warranty’. They also offer the Friends For Life dog training program for new owners. Rodney 207346 at AWL Stapylton. This happy little pooch is a 6 year old Shih Tzu cross Maltese, Rodney. He’s a nice calm dog, with stunning good looks and a great manner. He can be adopted for $280.
Caine 521805 . This two-year-old boy was surrendered to us in March and is eagerly looking forward to finding his new home as soon as possible. Caine is quite a characture and he can be adopted for $70 .
Lilly Tag 207797 This is Lilly a five month old Staffy x Kelpie. As you would expect of her age and breeds she is a dynamic little pocket rocket full of energy and fun. She can be adopted for $300. The AWL Qld does not receive Government funding for its welfare work and is therefore reliant on volunteers and the community’s generosity. With the average cost being $400 per animal we rehome, the AWL Qld runs at a large loss when rehoming our animals.
http://www.awlqld.com.au/ Phone: 07 5509 9000
Contributors:
Animal Welfare League Gold Coast Grace Hutchings - Finch Finatic Pet Peoples Place Shery L Harris - Shutzu Enthusiast Tami Weiss - Seahorse Enthusiast
Moses Wright - The British Shorthair Nathan E Peterson - Aquaculture Brian Fleming - Creator of Catkins Diet The Rabbit Patch Jimmy Craig - Reptile Keeper.
Thank you. www.petscenemagazine.com.au
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Disclaimer Notice: The information, images and graphic design (artwork) contained on this web site is owned by Pet Scene Magazine and/ or the original authors where applicable. Information contained in any of the articles is not necessarily the direct opinion of Pet Scene Magazine and, where applicable, does not take the place of a consultation with a qualified and competent veterinarian. Veterinarian advice must be tailored to the specific circumstances of each patient. Pet Scene Magazine tries to provide quality information but we make no claims, promises or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness or adequacy of the information contained herein.
WELCOME TO PET SCENE MAGAZINE Australia’s hottest resource in the pet industry. We’re going to be doing a lot of exciting things here at Pet Scene Magazine and we are thrilled to bring you on board. Pet Scene is Australia’s own online publication dedicated to bringing you a quality monthly magazine available FREE right across the nation. We pride ourselves on promoting responsible pet ownership, education and community awareness. Jam packed with informative articles and professional advice, Pet Scene Magazine will have you up to date on all the latest news and information for your best friend.
With this ongoing support we look forward to a bright future and many happy, healthy pets throughout our beautiful country. Kristy Hunter Editorial Director
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We are a family owned business with a long history of volunteering our time to animal welfare and from this came the drive to produce Pet Scene Magazine. With Australia having one of the highest incidences of pet ownership in the world, our goal is to provide a countrywide resource which utilizes today*’s modern technology to reach a wider demographic quickly and efficiently. In keeping our publication Free it is hoped that we can reach as many people as possible with our important message of responsible pet care. But we need your help, so jump on our support page and join the Pet Scene Street Team!
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Pet Scene Magazine will not be held liable for any loss, injury, claim, or damage related to your use of this site whether from errors and omissions in the content or from any other use of this site. This web site is not a substitute for the advice of a competent veterinarian. Some of the articles in this web site contain links to other resources and are not intended to state or imply that Pet Scene Magazine sponsors, is affiliated or associated with or is legally authorized to use any trade name, registered trademark, or copyrighted symbol that may be reflected in the links. Warranty & Indemnity Content and opinions expressed are not necessarily those of the publishers. While every effort is made to gather information from professionals in good faith, No liability is accepted for issues or damages arising from content or advertising by Pet Scene Magazine. No readers should act on the basis of information contained in this publication without first seeking professional advice that can take into account their individual needs and their particular set of circumstances. This publication is intended to inform and illustrate. The publishers and editors or Pet Scene Magazine give no representation and make no warranties, expressed or implied, in regard to the accuracy, completeness, currency or reliability of any of the material contained within the publication or its associated web site. No correspondence will be entered into in relation to this publication by the publishers, editors or authors. Articles are published in good faith without our knowledge of any copyright infringement. The contents, design and graphics of Pet Scene Magazine are copyright and may not be reproduced in any form in whole or part without the written permission of the publishers.
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Contents: Contributors...................................................................................2 Welcome........................................................................................3 Keeping Seahorses.......................................................................6 Three Keys To Success Pet Gourmet.................................................................................10 Bulldog Banana Bites Kids Corner...................................................................................11
Feathered Friends........................................................................12 What You Need To Know About Gouldian Finches. Greyhounds 4 U Casino Fundraiser.............................................14
Horses Respond To Human Heart Rates.....................................16
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Hot Dogs & Cool Cats...................................................................18 Nine Top Tips to Beat the Summer Heat. A Dogs 10 Commandments..........................................................20 Ask Mr Beefy Q & A.......................................................................21 Barking Mad..................................................................................22 The Shitzu General Fish Keeping Tip For All Tropical Fish.............................24
Feline Diabetes.............................................................................26 Understanding This Condition
Heat Stroke In Rabbits..................................................................28 The Cats Meow.............................................................................30 The British Shorthair Keeping Red Eyed Tree Frogs......................................................32
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Keeping Seahorses Three Keys To Success By Tami Weiss
It wasn’t long ago that seahorses were considered “impossible” to keep in captivity. Many believed they were only suitable for those with massive resources such as public aquariums. If the home aquarist were to attempt to keep seahorses, they needed to live near the ocean so they could collect food on a daily basis, and even then, they only met limited success. Fortunately, times have changed. Advancements in modern marine keeping as well as a better understanding of seahorses and their requirements means anyone with the dedication and willingness to learn can keep seahorses. What we have learned is that seahorses have their own special requirements, and if those needs are met, they can be kept healthy and happy in the home aquarium. The secret to keeping seahorses is the right environment, proper feeding, and getting healthy specimens. We will cover how to do all three in this article. Environment: Seahorses aren’t your typical reef fish. Well, they’re not your typical anything! They require a specialized environment to thrive in captivity. Rarely do they do well in your normal marine aquarium. A seahorse aquarium needs to be a slow, peacefully environment. Their tankmates should be slow, and the water should be slow. As a general rule of thumb, seahorse keepers have the flow rate of their aquarium 3-5x/hr. What exact is this? It’s the number of times per hour the entire volume of water “turns over” or moves through the pumps. For example, if you have a 20 gallon aquarium, and you want to have a 5x turnover, you would take 20 and multiply by 5. This would give you 100 gallons per hour turn over, and thus, the flow rate you are looking to achieve is 200gph. This can be through one 200gph pump, or through multiple smaller pumps, such as two 100 gph pumps or four 5gph pumps. As I said, tankmates need to be slow as well. Seahorses are not very fast at catching food; some will stare at a piece for a good ten minutes before deciding it is edible. Highly aggressive, fast tankmates will usually end up stealing all the food. In addition, gregarious, fast moving fish tend to make seahorses nervous and can cause undue stress, which can lead to illness. Keep the tankmates slow and small, and your seahorse will be happiest. Or don’t keep them at all, as many seahorse keepers discovered they do best only with their own kind. For specific recommenda-
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tions, see the article on seahorse tankmates. Because of their unusual shape and behavior, seahorses also need a habitat with a different decor than most marine fish tanks. Wall to wall live rock is not the kind of home your seahorses will appreciate. They aren’t usually found associating with the cliff-like walls of a reef, and are too clumsy to navigate the holes and crevices of live rock piles. Instead, they prefer open space with hitching posts to anchor themselves with their prehensile tail. Hitching posts can be a variety of sizes and shapes. In fact, the more variety, the happier your seahorses will be. As long as its relatively columnar and their tails can wrap around it, your seahorse will be happy. Some common hitching posts include: artificial branching corals, plastic & silk plants, brightly colored poly rope, and macro algae such as caulerpa. With that being said, no seahorse tank should be devoid of live rock. Live rock is still an important part of the miniature ecosystem you are attempting to create. What is important is balancing the volume of live rock with the open space needed. Tonga branch rock is one way of creating both hitching posts and providing live rock. Most seahorses enjoy other types of live rock to poke around in, looking for naturally occurring crustaceans to eat. The size and shape of the aquarium is also important to seahorse health. 20 gallons per seahorse is the absolute minimum for a pair of seahorses. 40 gallons per pair of the really large ones such as H. ingens or H. abdominalis. However, water volume is only one factor when determining the best size seahorse aquarium. Seahorses need tall aquariums, as they are vertical swimmers. This is especially true if you plan to breed them. Minimum tank size is three times the total adult height of the seahorse. Be sure this is after you subtract the depth of your sand bed. A 20-inch tank with a 6 inch sand bed only gives seahorses 14 inches of usable height. The last issue concerning the seahorse environment is water quality. Seahorses are messy eaters; consuming large volumes of high protein, high fat foods. They have an inefficient digestive system, which leaves the aquarist with high protein, high fat poops that break down in the aquarium. For this reason, it is important for the seahorse aquarist to watch their water quality closely, and set up their aquarium to deal with these waste-producing machines. An efficient nutrient export system is a must. Nutrient export is simply put, a method of removing waste, either before it brakes down to nitrate and phosphate, or after.
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The simplest nutrient export system is large water changes, which physically removes the water with the waste, and replaces it with new water that does not have waste. However, water changes large enough and frequent enough to make a profound effect on nutrient remove are labor intensive and costly. Most aquarist, therefore, supplement regular partial water changes with other methods of nutrient export. Commonly used methods are protein skimming, refugiums and macroalgae for biological export, and nutrient absorbing pads. Feeding: Seahorse keepers are obsessed with food. Live food, dead food, big food, small food. Why? Because our seahorses are so dependent on it.
In nature, seahorses spend most of their time eating. This is because their digestive system is very short
and not very efficient. They have evolved to be eating machines. Unfortunately, they have evolved to be picky eating machines, only recognizing the movement of live food as actual food. Thus comes the problem many seahorse keepers face. Seahorses not only require frequent feedings of highly nutritious food, they often will only eat living food. Which means for many seahorse aquarists at least one extra tank for food and a fairly large food budget. Fortunately for aquarists, due to recent laws regarding the control of the number of seahorses traded internationally, captive bred seahorses are popular. Thankfully, they usually are grown on frozen food and have adapted early on to eat whatever is thrown in the aquarium. However, that doesn’t entirely answer the problem of seahorse feeding. Many foods available on the market are not suitable as a staple diet for seahorse. Mysis, a popular frozen food for seahorses, is usually only available from freshwater sources. These sources do not have the right balance of fats appropriate for marine animals, and as a staple diet is likely to result in deficiencies as well as problems with accumulation of fatty tissue in the liver. Brine shrimp is virtually void of nutrition. Small krill, sometimes marketed as plankton, is a great food source, but many seahorses turn their noses up as they do not like the hard shell. The same problems are encountered with live food. Ghost shrimp are typically freshwater and don’t contain the right nutrition for saltwater fish. Brine shrimp are very poor nutritionally. Saltwater ghost shrimp and mysis are sometimes available but tend to be expensive because they have to be shipped from the cost. So what is a seahorse keeper to do? Variety is the spice of life. While it may take time to convince your seahorse that mysis isn’t the only thing they want to eat, most that eat frozen will learn to eat other shrimp like frozen food, such as krill. With live food, spend the money to get live saltwater shrimp and supplement. You can also enrich food with various supplements such as Vibrance or Selcon. Feeding live shrimp high quality foods to “gut load” for seahorses is another option. Feeding should be done at least twice a day. As I said, in the wild they eat constantly. Fortunately for us, we can provide them with a high quality food where they can have a couple square meals a day and not force the aquarist to
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Continued... have never been exposed to “normal” pathogens. If you have to go with wild caught seahorses, then its even more important to be sure you get your seahorses from a reputable dealer. The dealer must understand the specific requirements of seahorses, or you are likely to acquire sickly animals that are unwilling or unable to eat. You also must watch out for disease animals suffering from capture and shipping stress. While it may be tempting to try and “rescue” suffering animals, it will most likely result in disappointment, as well as encourage irresponsible fish stores to carry more seahorses likely to perish. Purchase checklist:
quit their job to ensure a constant supply of food. However they still need to be feed more often than most fish, and wouldn’t do well missing feedings on a regular basis. It’s also important to feed young seahorses more often, ideally 3-4 times a day as they grow. For specific information on seahorse food items, see our seahorse food article Healthy Stock: Perhaps “the” most important factor in keeping seahorses is starting off with healthy animals. A big problem facing seahorse keepers is how rapidly their condition can decline, especially when you take into account the stress of transportation and acclimation can have seahorses. And unfortunately for aquarists, once their condition starts to decline, it is very hard to turn around. They also seem more susceptible to spreading disease among otherwise healthy individuals once they fall ill. So what can you do to assure you are starting with healthy animals? The absolute best thing you can do is start with captive bred seahorses. They are by far the superior choice for longevity and health. They have been breed in captive conditions and are therefore acclimated to tank conditions. It is equally important, though, to get your captive bred seahorses from a reputable dealer. You want to be sure that the dealer isn’t mixing them with wild seahorses, and ideally not with wild fish at all. While captive bred seahorses are much healthier individuals, some seem more susceptible to disease carried by wild fish, as they
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* Active, moving around. Contrary to popular belief, seahorses rarely stay in one place and are moving around quite a bit. * Bright, active eyes. A healthy seahorse will swivel its eyes around in constant search of food. * Full, round belly. A healthy seahorse is a will feed seahorse. While they tend to be fairly thin by nature, any caved in sides is a bad sign. * Clear fins. Things to avoid: * Cloudy eyes/dead stare (not much eye movement) * Caved in sides, hollow looking plates. * White, gray, or inflamed growths. Algae growth is normal, though. * Heavy breathing/panting/coughing - Seahorses tend to breath heavier than most fish, though rocking back and forth from breathing so hard, or looking though they’re coughing every few breaths is generally a sign of gill parasites or a seahorse being at death’s door.
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* Bloating. While a fat seahorse is a healthy seahorse, they also succumb to infections that cause fluid to accumulate under the skin. It can be difficult to tell the difference in the early stages, but watch for if it is still eating or not. It may not always be possible to observe a seahorse before purchasing considering some of the best sources are online. Which is why it is so important to be sure to choose only a reputable dealer. If you do purchase online, be sure to watch for these traits right after purchase so you can notify the vendor if there are any problems with your newly acquired stock. In addition to picking out healthy individuals, its important to pick species that will thrive in captivity, whether wild caught or captive bred. In general, the species that seem to be best suited to captivity are H. erectus, H. zoestrae, and H. reidi. Captive bred specimens of H. erectus and H. reidi readily eat frozen food. H. zosterae requires live food, but eats easy-to-hatch baby brine shrimp. All are fairly disease resistant. The wild caught specimens of these species tend to do will in captivity also, as long as you’re willing to meet the specific wild caught requirements. H. reidi is difficult to train to frozen food, but as long as you’re willing to feed it live food will thrive. H. erectus learn to eat frozen quickly, but you have to watch for parasites in wild caught individuals. The care for captive bred and wild caught H. zosterae is pretty much the same. Once you have you’re healthy stock, you need to keep it healthy. This means quarantining. Yes, this includes captive bred individuals, even though many breeders claim it isn’t necessary. While most captive bred animals are in fact disease free, as claimed, you still need to make sure they didn’t pick up any diseases at a distributor, etc . . . Quarantining new animals also gives you a chance to observe their eating habits in a quiet, close environment where they can’t easily disappear into the decorations of the tank, or be out competed by established tank members. Quarantining should be done for a full 4 weeks, possibly longer in the case of wild caught seahorse. Many people ignore this advice until they lose their first tank to some highly contagious disease - myself included. Learn from our mistakes and ALWAYS quarantine. I cannot emphasis this point enough. Just do it!
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While this just a basic overview of what is needed for keeping seahorses, (many a book has been written on the subject and still not everything is covered!) following these three keys will lead to a happy, healthy seahorse tank. Tami Weiss has been keeping seahorses for the past decade. For help and more information on seahorses and pipe fish see http://www.fusedjaw.com Articles, Photos, Videos, Discussions and more available. Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Keeping-Seahorses---Three-Keys-to-Success&id=1258070] Keeping Seahorses - Three Keys to Success
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Pet Gourmet Bulldog Banana Bites 2 1/4 cups whole wheat flour 1/2 cup powdered milk. 1 egg 1/3 cup banana -- ripe, mashed 1/4 cup vegetable oil 1 beef bouillon cube 1/2 cup water -- hot 1 tablespoon brown sugar Mix all ingredients until will blended. Knead for 2 minutes on a floured surface. Roll to 1/4 “ thickness. Use a 2 1/2” bone shaped cookie cutter (or any one you prefer). Bake for 30 minutes in a 300 degrees oven on ungreased cookie pans.
KITTY TREATS 1-1/2 cups rolled oats 1/4 cup vegetable oil 1/2 cup flour 1/2 cup tuna in brine, ( or chicken or beef bouillon) Preheat oven to 180 degrees Mix all ingredients into a dough. Dust hands with flour and form small, 1/2-inch-thick, round “biscuits”. Set on greased cookie sheet. Bake 30 minutes (or until biscuits are slightly browned). Cool 30 minutes before serving.
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unscramble letters to DOGGY WORDthe SEARCH help you find the correct answers.
Pet
Labrador Dalmatian Pug Poodle Bulldog Terrier Dachshund
Rottweiler Chihuahua Collie Blue Healer Great Dane Kelpie
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What you need to know about gouldian Finches By Grace Hutchings
Also known as the Rainbow Finch or Painted Finch due to its many colors and patterns, the Gouldian Finch isn’t a very social creature... at least not to human beings. They are very social to their fellow finches and live more favorably in pairs or groups of pairs than singly. Gouldian finches do not like to be held or touched unlike other types of finches. If you are looking for a bird that you would like to pet or carry, this bird isn’t for you. They however sing very beautifully, the males in particular. Their chirping voice is one of the most beautiful among the finches.
These types of finches do not adapt well to environmental changes; for example, when you transfer them from a new place or change them from one cage to another. Stress lowers their resistance to disease and in turn may kill them. Although originally coming from a tropical climate, it can with the proper knowledge, adapt to cold weather providing they are protected from the cold outside. Unlike any other type of finches, the gouldian finch does not have that soft down at the bottom of their feathers which help them insulate in the cold. When comfortable enough, they can start breeding. A mature gouldian finch can weigh approximately 15
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grams. A typical gouldian finch will have a neon blue neck, upper tail and rump, deep violet chest, yellow belly, and black pintail. Domestic gouldian finches have a variety of colors that are just as distinct but a little different. The females and younglings have coloring that are much duller than their male counterparts, but are still very beautiful. Originating from Australia, the Gouldian Finch is now endangered and threatened to extinction. In 1992, it was classified as “Endangered in the wild” This was due to the fact that the viable population size was estimated to be less than 2,500 mature individuals.
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They must have space free of excessive obstructions so they can fly. Their cage must not be smaller than 20x20x40 and you also must consider how many finches you have or plan to. The more there are the more space they need. They also must have sufThey were one of the most ficient sunlight or you can numerous birds in the entire substitute it for a full specworld. One of the culprits for trum fluorescent lighting. A their decline in number is the balanced diet is essential and destruction of their habitat less or zero outside stimuli from irresponsible land man- which may panic them. In the agement and use. Perhaps evening, it may be a good another reason is because of idea to keep the light on, estheir inability to adapt well to pecially in colder climates. certain changes. In fact, they are the most difficult to take It is important, therefore, that care of among the finches. Moving frequently from one owners do research these finches thoroughly before environment to another deciding to keep them as quickly stresses them out pets to help them survive. making them less able to counter diseases; and they are particularly susceptible to Grace Hutchings is a World infections in their respiratory Class Finch Fanatic who loves system most especially in the finches. To learn more on wild. gouldian finches please go to http://www.petfinchadvice. com.
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You have been cordially invited to…
Greyhounds 4U Casino Fundraiser Date:
Saturday 18th September, 2010
Time:
7:00pm
Venue:
Parramatta Workers Club 163-165 George Street, Parramatta
Ticket Price:
$55.00 per person (sorry no door sales)
Dress Code:
Smart Casual
Ticket price includes: Special Guest Talk from major event sponsor & world reknowned animal trainer Steve Austin Champagne on arrival Cocktail food Casino Games, Roulette, Poker & Blackjack DJ Scallops playing latest hits & a mixture of old & new $500 Casino “Credit” and prizes for the “Highest Rollers”* Silent Auction on the night for so many amazing items including: Pet Resorts Australia Boarding Vouchers Pet Resorts Australia Obedience Training Vouchers Printed 600 x 400 Canvas of your Pet valued at $200 from Power Images Pet package with vouchers, food, treats, vet care items valued at over $800 Toni & Guy Hair Care Pack & Ceramic Straightener Valued at $210 Newborn Baby Pack Valued at $90 Plus, electrical appliances, wine & gourmet packs, ladies make up so much more Thank you to the following event sponsors
www.southwesternfinance.com.au Casino Credits only not redeemable for cash. Discounts for groups of 8 people and more.
www.petscenemagazine.com.au Companies please note a Tax Invoice can be provided to you—just ask.
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Casino Night Fundraiser Ticket Order Form Tickets are $55.00 per person Discounts are available for groups of 8 or more—Enquire to jess@greyhounds4u.com.au Company orders welcome. Tax Invoice will be emailed to you with tickets.
How to Order 1.
Email or call G4u with number of tickets
2. Make Payment via paypal or direct deposit 3. Your tickets will then be emailed to you (or posted) Tickets will sent by email with your unique ticket number. Print them out & bring on the night. Remember, the more the merrier! So invite your family & friends and help raise money for our own facility. A facility just for G4U, where dogs can be temperament tested and exercised, a facility where we can do adoptions and have meetings & ultimately save more dogs. G4U CONTACT DETAILS Jessica Roberts jess@greyhounds4u.com.au 0430 012 568 Trish Cawley trish@greyhounds4u.com.au 0414 069 110
Looking for somewhere to stay? Mecure Hotel 106 Hassell Street Rosehill Ph: (02) 8836 1000
HOW TO PAY Tickets: Paypal:
$55.00 each trish@greyhounds4u.com.au
Direct Deposit: Account Name BSB Account Number:
St George Bank Greyhounds 4U Incorporated 112 879 491253132
Email receipts to
jess@greyhounds4u.com.au
Mantra Parramatta 1 Valentine Avenue Parramatta Ph: (02) 9685 1600
Or try www.wotif.com.au THANK YOU TO PET RESORTS AUSTRALIA. OUR MAJOR EVENT SPONSOR
www.petresortsaustralia.com.au Two excellent locations at Dural & Terrigal Five Star Resorts & Obedience Training
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Horses Respond To Human Heart Rates Uppsala, Sweden Swedish researchers have discovered that an increase in a human’s heart rate can lead to an increase in the horse’s heart rate, indicating that a nervous rider may affect a horse’s confidence.
la, and since it did not open and so could have no effect on the horse, the researchers were able to determine if the effect caused by this expectation on the human could be felt by the horse.
The experiment asked each human to lead or ride their horse between two points four times. Participants were told that just before their fourth pass an umbrella would open as they passed the assistant, but in fact the umbrella was not opened. Since the horse did not know about the umbrel-
Original Source: http://www.petpeoplesplace.com/resources/news/horses/horsesrespond-to-human-heart-rates.htm
In both cases where the horse was being In the July 2009 edition of The Veteriled and ridden, the human’s heart rate nary Journal (“Investigating horseincreased and so did the horse’s, indicathuman interactions: the effect of a ing that it somehow detected the human’s nervous human”), a team from the anxiety. In the wild, horses are in tune Department of Animal Environment with the behavior of their herd-mates in and Health at the Swedish Univerorder to swiftly react to threats. It would sity of Agricultural Sciences in Upnot be surprising if a horse could respond psala presented a novel experiment to the heart rate of a human that was in which they could test the effect of riding it, since it may be able to physianxiety in humans on horses that were cally sense this, but what is most interestbeing ridden or lead. The horses taking about this study is that even in cases ing part in the research were Swedish when it was only being led by a human it leisure horses of various ages, sexes also responded with an increased heart and breeds, and the humans were of rate. mixed sexes and ages, and had a vari- View the latest World Pet News every ety of backgrounds with horses. week at PetPeoplesPlace.com.
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Hot Dogs + Cool Cats: Nine Top Tips to Beat Summer is at long last just around the corner and nothing makes a summer adventure more enjoyable than having our beloved four-legged companions in tow! However for animals, the summer heat can be quite uncomfortable as our furry friends are covered with fur and walk directly on hot surfaces that can severely affect their body temperature. To help keep our critters safe and comfortable all summer long, check out the following tips, ideas and products to keep summer from being a bummer for our pets!
3. Creative Cooling: Water or gel-filled cooling mats or cooling vests are great for dogs that are kept outside or if you do not have air conditioning in your home. As well, an elevated pet bed can help keep pets cool and comfortable and the raised sleeping surface keeps your dog off the hard ground, away from bugs and has an added bonus of great air circulation
for your pet, especially if you’re on the road. As well, the new ASPCA doggie travel water bottle can help you both hydrate and save lives...I’ll drink to that!
4. Hydrate, Hydrate, Hydrate: Provide plenty of water and shade for your pets so they can stay cool. Be aware that water will vaporize on extremely hot days. Collapsible Water Bowls and Gulpy Water Bottles are convenient portable water sources
5. Exercise at Dusk & Dawn: Pets need exercise, but on very hot days it is best to limit exercise to early morning or evening hours. Keep in mind that asphalt and beach sand gets very hot and can burn your pet’s paws. Consider protective booties to protect sen-
1. Car Heat: Avoid heat exhaustion and DO NOT leave your pet alone in the car during the remotely warm weather. During warm weather the inside of your car can reach 120° in a matter of minutes, even if you’re parked in the shade with the windows opened a little. Pet owners that carelessly leave their pets unattended in a hot car are now subject to hefty fines and possibly jail time, so don’t even think about it! 2. Let the Fur Fly: Dogs with extremely thick or long fur should be trimmed during the hot summer months. Regular use of a deshedding tool, such as the FURminator deshedding tool can remove tremendous amounts of undercoat hair.
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t the Summer Heat sitive paws from hot pavement. 6. Avoid Sunburn: Pets can get sunburned too, and your pet may require sunscreen on his or her nose and ear tips. Especially pets with light-colored noses or light-colored fur on their ears. Cats and dogs with errect ears are especially susceptible to skin cancer on the ear tips and should be protected. Pet Scene Boutique has a specially formulated pet sunscreen available for your convenience. 7. Be aware of the Signs of Heat Exhaustion: Heavy panting, glazed eyes, a rapid pulse, unsteadiness, a staggering gait, vomiting, or a deep red or purple tongue are all signs of possible heat exhaustion. What to do: Move the animal into the shade or an air-conditioned area. Apply ice packs or cold towels to their head, neck and chest or immerse them in cool (not cold) water. Let them drink small amounts of cool water or lick ice cubes and consider taking them directly to a veterinarian. 8. The fozen water bottles in the drink dispenser: There are a vast number of pet drinking dispensers with screw in bottle options that fit a standard soft drink bottle thread. A great tip for the long hot summer days is to freeze a large soft drink bottle of water to place in your dog’s water dispenser. During the day this will slowly melt leaving your pet with a constant supply of ice cold drinking water. Please make sure there are other watering
stations available so that your pet is never left short if they are particularly thirsty.
9. Water Safety: Make sure that if you are enjoying time out on the water this summer with your four legged companion, that they are not overlooked when it comes to safety. Especially while on watercraft it is important that your dog is also fitted out with a life jacket so that they too are protected in the event of an emergency or falling overboard. Even if your dog is a great swimmer, in the event of an accident even the strongest swimmers will soon tire if they are unable to be rescued in a timely manner. Pet Scene’s own online stores offer a range of stylish quality pet life jackets, complete with reflective strips and easy retrieval handle.
We hope that these tips will help to keep you and your pet safe and make the most of the summer.
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A Dogs 10 Commandments 1. My life is likely to last 10 to 15 years. Any separation from you will be painful remember that before you get me. 2. Give me time to understand what you want of me. 3. Place your trust in me- it is crucial to my well being. 4. Do not be angry at me for long, and do not lock me up as punishment. 5. You have your work, your entertainment, and your friends. I only have you. 6. Talk to me sometimes. Even if I don’t understands your words, I understand your voice when it is speaking to me. 7. Be aware that how ever you treat me, I will never forget. 8. Remember before you hit me that I have teeth that could easily hurt you, but I choose not to bite you because I love you. 9. Before you scold me for being uncooperative, obstinate, or lazy, ask yourself if something might be bothering me. Perhaps I might not be getting the right food, or I am feeling poorly, or my heart is getting to old and weak. 10. Take care of me when I get old; you too will grow old. Go with me on difficult journeys. Never say: “I cannot bear to watch” or “Let it happen in my absence.” Everything is easier for me if you are there, even my death. Remember that I love you. www.petscenemagazine.com.au
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Q: My Cat refuses to drink her water from the bowl next to her food. How can I get her to drink? A: This behaviour is perfectly normal and very common in cats. It is instinctively in the cats nature not to drink from a water source close to their food. This is because in the wild a cat will hunt and kill for it’s meal, taking it’s food away from it’s source of water so as not to contaminate it with the carcas. It is important to always offer your cat fresh water in a location away from where you feed it. It is for this reason that I would never recomend side-by-side bowls for cats.
Q: How do Cats see in the dark? A: Cats are natural hunters who often prey on animals that are active at Night such as mice and rats. To hunt successfully they must be able to see and stalk their prey even on very dark nights. Contrary to popular belief cats can not see in total darkness. However, cats can see at least six times better in the dark than people do. Cats can see well in the dark because they have very large eyes for their size and their retina ( The light sensitive part of the eye) contains many cells that are very active in dim light. Cats also have a special layer of cells at the back of their eyes that act like a mirror, reflecting the light back through the retina. This double dose of light means that very little light is necessary for good vision. These reflective cells are also the reason why cats eyes shine in the dark. www.petscenemagazine.com.au
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Barking Mad
The Shitzu When it comes to wanting to fall in love with one of the smallest and cutest dogs out there, there should be no problem when it comes to the Shitzu dog. The appearance of this breed is enough to make any heart melt. Being only about nine inches in height when full grown, this dog is surely own that can fit within any size home or apartment which makes it a great choice for those without a lot of room to roam. The colours found within this breed are usually red, tan, black, or white mixed with another colour. The Shitzu dog is not one to get if you are not someone that is going to enjoy grooming the dog on a regular basis. Because the long hair is easily tangled, it is suggested to brush out the hair on a daily basis. A professional grooming should be sought out about every six weeks or so just to make sure that your dog is always looking his or her best. Not only does this breed require a lot of your attention, it also requires a lot of your love and affection in order to remain happy and peaceful in your home. This cheerful and social dog is one that loves attention no matter who it is coming from. While the Shitzu dog is not prone to a lot of barking, they are dogs that show a lot of stubbornness. They really do not like learning a lot of tricks but they can be trained with patience as they will take a little lonwww.petscenemagazine.com.au
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The Shitzu “The lovable Diva.� By Sherry L Harris
By Ursula ger to master tricks. This has nothing to do with their ability to learn but rather their disinterest in doing so. Another great thing about the personality of this breed is that since they love company, they do well with children and other pets. Besides the cuteness that this dog has and their social ability, the Shitzu dog is also known for barely shedding any hair. And since the dander is so little, those who find that they have allergies to dogs will find this breed to be a perfect fit. No longer do you have to avoid the idea of owning a dog because of your allergies. If you are ready to care and love a dog that will give you as much love back then this is the breed for you. Whether you have a house or a small apartment, the Shitzu will fit in.
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Sherry Harris is the author of a wide range of dog topics including, but not limited to: puppy training, dog grooming, pet travel, pet insurance, dog training, pet food, house training, dog breeds and dog allergies. For hundreds more free dog articles visit http://www.DogStyleNetwork.com Hope you enjoyed the article topic Shitzu Dog. We are online 24/7, so come visit us at your convenience! Article Source: http://EzineArticles. com/?expert=Sherry_L_Harris
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General Fish Keeping Tips For All Tropical Fish By Nathan E Peterson Basic Criteria for Fishkeeping
Fish tank components and accessories
Purchasing a new fish tank is exciting and fun. If you starting up and bringing home a fish for the kids, or even for your own aquarium, be sure to place your fish in it’s new home pronto. Don’t delay it’s imperative to get your fish home or it may overheat to room temp and die. Make sure your aquarium is completely set up and ready to go before you place your fish in it’s new home. It’s not a good idea to plop your fish into the aquarium because it needs time to adjust to the temperature of the water. So I recommend placing the bag from the pet store into the aquarium and let it float so the fish can slowly adjust to the temperature of the water. This should take about 1015 minutes. When you think it’s good to go then you can take the fish out of the pet shop bag and let it swim around in its new aquarium. Don’t forget to wash your hands when your finished.
If your tank is not stable you risk the possibility of a leak or break. Get a proper foundation or stand to place your tank on. Do you have the right filter? You need to get a reliable filter. Canister, undergravel and even power filters can remove wasts and provide safe clean water for your fishes, and plants. A thermometer and heater are key to maintain the right water temperature. If you don’t want your fish flopping on the living room floor, then make sure you have a hatch or a hood to keep them from jumping out! Hoods also prevent water evaporation from the fish tank.
Setting up your new fish Aquarium Is your aquarium ready for your new fish? Make sure it is properly sized for the fish type you plan to place in the fish tank. Is your fish tank near a power outlet? You will need power for the filtration process and lighting for your fish. Try to keep your aquarium out of common household vulnerabilities, like direct sunlight. Your fish tank should have about 2-3
inches of rocks and gravel for the base. Decorations are always fun but remember to leave room for your fish to swim around. You don’t want your fish to get stuck in your silly decorations so don’t over do it with the decor. Live plants are good for the environment and are pleasing to the eye. Artificial plants will do but if they get loose the usually float into the filter and jam the aquarium. With live plants at least you will be able to have stability when the roots grow into the gravel. Make sure your fish tank is filled with NON-CHLORINATED water, and get the water temp. in a range of 7482 degrees for tropical fish groups and 68-72 degrees for goldfish groups. Most important of all is safety. You need to be sure your fish tank is Stable!
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Gravel hood/hatch heater reliable filter stand Feeding your Fish Have you overfed your fish only to find them floating on top of your fish tank? Just a pinch will do! Feed your fish twice daily, and if you have little guppies then they need to be feed more. Feed your fish as much food as they will eat in a 5 minute period. If there are left over flakes, it’s an indicator you need to cut back on the food. Fish are capable of adapting their diets around flake foods. Meat eaters need some protein fish like shrimp, worms etc. The plant eaters can be fed pellets, and some types of vegetables like zucchini and lettuce (romaine lettuce) Try not to mix it up too much you need to give your fish a little time to adjust to the new diet your are giving them.
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-Your fish are swimming at the right water level -No skin lesions -Pure colors -Steady gills -The are darting around like nemo... Signs you have a sick fish. Fish Families Usually fish can be categorized into families or communities based on there previous habitat. Keep fish within’ their communities. You don’t want to put your tropical fish in the tank with an oscar would you? So make sure you know what community your fish belongs to. These families are divided into about 5 common groups. Goldfish/African Cichlids/ South American Cichlids/Tropical Aggressive/& Tropical. A sane fish is a happy fish so keep them within their fish communities. How to clean your aquarium If you just purchased your fish tank then be sure to rotate about 1 tenth of the water supply every week. If you’ve had a fish tank awhile then you are aware to change 1/4 of the water supply monthly. Make sure you are using some type of water conditioner when you are adding new water to the tank. Tap water has minerals and chemicals that fish do not like. So a dechlorinator is a wise choice for new water. Get an algae scrubber to swipe algae from the glass. A vacuum can help keep debris in the gravel. The quality of water you rotate in your fish tank is important. Test the ph balance of the water regularly to keep ammonia, nitrite/nitrate, hardness, alkalinity and chorine levels balanced. Do you have a water tester for your tank? You should get one if you don’t.
These are some of the common signs that you have a sick fish in a poorly maintained aquarium. You may need to adjust the water, water filter, and chemicals in your aquarium to prevent your fish from getting sick. Here are the common indicators your fish is sick. - They scrape their body on the rocks or rough surfaces - White stuff on or around the mouth - They may get Red Lines on their fins. - Golden specks on skin and fins is known as a common problem - Parasites on the fish. Can you see them? - If your fish seems like it’s having consistent gill spasms then you know it may be sick. - your fishes fins are tight against the body of the fish
ber to always check with a specialist before caring for your fish yourself. If you really want to learn about Tropical Fish Then Look no Further. http://www. FishPlenty.com/wordpress lists over 20 Different Tropical Fish that you can put in your Aquarium. Learn about Fish Tank Setup, Fish Diseases and More Article Source: [http://EzineArticles. com/?General-Fish-Keeping-Tips-For-AllTropical-Fish-Aquariums&id=1743970] General Fish Keeping Tips For All Tropical Fish Aquariums
- Everyone has seen this I’m sure. When your fish is settled on the bottom of the tank.
Signs your have a healthy fish It’s obvious when you have a happy, healthy fish. There are no floaters right? Here are more signs of a happy fish -They are eating like champs!
These are general signs of a sick fish or poorly kept fish tank. Speak with a specialist if you have any of these problems. If they persist maybe you should consider changing the water, chemicals, tank or even the food you give your fish. Remem-
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Feline Diabetes By Brian Fleming hair coat, liver disease, many numerous metabolic disturbances, and may possibly ultimately head to death. Numerous veterinarians believe that felines fed a nourishing, appropriate diet from when they are kittens are much less likely to develop feline diabetes. Veterinarians successfully nurse many diabetic animals with a natural diet that they would catch in the wild and with supplements only, without insulin. Cats diabetes is typically managed through prescription type of diets and insulin medications, either injected or taken orally. One of the keys to triumph in dealing with your diabetic cat is to feed your animal a whole natural food diet and stick with it. Which in essence means no junk and no snacks that alone would be 50 percent of the Diabetes, or high blood sugar is a metabolic Disease that solution. There is evidence that diabetes is affects many elder, Heavy felines. Parallel to adult onset in part a problem of pancreatic insufficiency diabetes in humans, cat diabetes Comes when the Older and of breaking down foods. The use of dicat pancreas no longer produces a sufficient amount insu- gestive enzymes is beneficial to enable anilin or the cells of the felines body lose their capacity to aid mals to process food more effectively. it correctly. There are many Symptoms that indicate diabetes in felines which include, extreme thirst, increased urination, many more trips to the litter box then usual, and starved craving, many times accompanied by extreme weight loss. If your feline develops any of these Signs, see a veterinarian at once. Creating an operational management program for a diabetic feline requires expert experience, whether you go for a traditional or holistic approach. Unless feline diabetes is brought under control, it can cause vomiting, loss of craving, weakness, dehydration, poor dry skin and
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There are elements that have proven benefits against feline diabetes like a combination of chromium, vitamin E, and selenium. Chromium stimulates insulin action. Insulin must initially mingle with chromium in order to effectively release the tissues to glucose and the production of energy. There are experiments that show that insulin is nearly ineffective devoid of sufficient chromium to create energy. Processed cat dry food is typically deficient in chromium. Studies also reveal that
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chromium supplementation reduces blood sugar. Vitamin E and selenium are valuable antioxidants that can help care for the blood vessels and other tissue from accelerated corrosion impairment caused by lofty blood sugar levels. An additional valuable mineral nutrient is vanadium in the form of vanadium sulfate. This trace mineral can mimic the property of insulin or build up its efficiency in the felines body, hence tumbling both blood sugar level consistently. You don’t want to cause such a harsh drop that you create a hypoglycemic effect that is low blood sugar. If you found this article helpful and want more information, please go to http://catkinsdiet. com/felinediabetes.html Brian Fleming has created the website catkinsdiet.com to help cat owners cope with cats that have developed feline diabetes, while teaching others how to properly feed their cats to avoid any health issues in the future. Article Source: [http://EzineArticles. com/?Feline-Diabetes&id=3724659] Feline Diabetes
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Heat Stroke in Rabbits By The Rabbit Patch Bunnies have health issues just like us humans so on this page you may find the answer to a problem that you may be experiencing with your furry friend. If you do then we hope the articles provided by us are of a help to you. Certainly Heat or Sun Stroke is a very relevant topic for all of us here in Australia with our 40’C plus days we have been having. If you want to learn how you can help your little mate in these very hot circumstances and find out what you can do to prevent or treat Heat or Sun Stroke read on... Handy tip: - Always keep a bucket or two of water around in hot weather to be used in the treatment of Heat or Sun stroke like we do here in The Rabbit Patch. First stage of heat stroke. Symptoms to look for:Bunny lying stretched out with his head tilted upward and his ears laid back down along his body with obvious panting. Treatment: Get the bunny cooled down as quickly as possible. Dunk him in a bucket of water that is sitting ready for such
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an emergency and hold him there long enough to thoroughly wet his coat including his head. Do not use cold water as this will send your little mate into shock and you will kill him rather than save him. Make sure that you wet his ears thoroughly as your little mate uses his ears to regulate his body temperature. If the day is particularly hot (we have days in excess of 40’C over most of our summer months) the water can be cooled down a bit, but don’t make it cold for the aforementioned reason. Second stage of heat stroke. Symptoms to look for:It will have all the signs of the first stage of heat stroke. Bunny lying stretched out with his head tilted upward and his ears laid back down along his body with obvious panting. Plus your poor little mate will also have wetness around the mouth and nose. Treatment: Urgently needs cooling down. Dunk him in a bucket of cool water several times as explained in the treatment for first stage of heat stroke. Also use a fan over him so that the slow evaporation of the water from his coat and skin cools him down more rapidly without risk of sending him into shock.
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Third and last stage of heat stroke. Symptoms to look for:It will have all the signs of the first and second stages of heat stroke. Bunny lying stretched out with his head tilted upward and his ears laid back down along his body with obvious panting and wetness around the mouth and nose. Plus your poor little mate will have wetness around his neck and down his chest and breathing becomes more rapid as your poor little mate becomes more distressed. Treatment:It is imperative that you immediately take steps to cool him down as explained in the first and second stage treatment of heat stroke. This is your last chance to save your little mate. If you leave the poor little fellow any longer he will start convulsing and when that happens he only has a few minutes to live and will die an agonising death with the heat scrambling his brain. Š September 2007 Trish Ratford from ‘The Rabbit Patch’
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The British Shorthair By Moses Wright Upon first glance, the girth and features of a British Shorthair may give the impression that they are a slothful, laid back breed. On the contrary, as descendants of British farm cats, this breed is a highly skilled and a mighty hunter. History - Bred in the nineteenth century, the British Shorthair was a favorite in many households until distinct breeds began popping up in the mid-twentieth century. A few British Shorthair enthusiasts continue tirelessly to ensure this breed does not die out. It wasn’t until the late twentieth century, that these wonderful cats were introduced in the United States, where cat fanciers became enthralled with their unusual per-
sonality and size. Appearance - There are a variety of colors and one shade was so popular; it was the only shade and color credited by cat associations for years to come. British Blue was the name of the color of choice, but after World War II, this distinct color of British Shorthairs almost became nonexistent. Enthusiasts of this breed, wanted to preserve conserve the unique blue hue, bred the remaining blue shorthairs with Blue Persians. This created an increase in the gene pool and literally saved the specific shade from utter elimination. There are different colors to choose from which consist of white, bicolors, smoke, tortoise-
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shell, point colors with orange or blue eyes. The British Shorthair has a roundish head and wide cheeks as well as a thick and relatively short tail. The British Shorthair, also known for its stockiness, is a large specimen of cat weighing in at a substantial nine to eighteen pounds. British Shorthair Cat Behavior and Characteristics - It is not a cat that demands incessant attention and affection. This breed behavior is highly content to go about its day doing its own thing. The British Shorthair is not suitable for those who desire friendly felines as this breed is not as socially inclined. You are able to easily satisfy the breed’s emotional needs
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generally healthy, although there is a problem one should take note of.
by keeping its food bowl filled and the cat can look after its own entertainment. There is little need to cuddle or entertain this breed in order to keep them content. As the British Shorthair doesn’t need constant attention, it is a good choice for a family with limited time on their hands. British Shorthair Cat Health Problems - With a long ancestry and lineage, the gene pool diversity of the breed is
Type A Blood is the common blood type of domestic cats; but, the British Shorthair might have a rare blood type, Type B blood. It is an issue of concern should an operation be needed one day. You should have your local vet check you British Shorthair’s blood type to ascertain if it is a rare blood type, to decrease the chances of confusion late on.
a perfect fit. Moses Wright likes to help fellow cat owners learn more about their cat breed whenever he is free. You can find more resources on cat illnesses symptoms, list of cat breed facts and information on his web site. Article Source: http://EzineArticles. com/?expert=Moses_Wright
It is easy to care for and groom your British Shorthair. With the texture of their coat being rough and thick, a once a week combing should be sufficient to remove loose hairs and particles of dirt. If your short on time, but still want a cat, the unassuming, self contained personality of a British Shorthair is definitely worth looking in to. It’s sure to be
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Keeping Red Eye Tree Frogs By Jimmy Craig Red Eye Tree Frogs are a colorful and interesting species to keep as pets. Easily one of the brightest colored of all frog species. Description Red Eye Tree Frogs are bright green in body, with a creamy white belly. They have large red eyes with vertical slit pupils, and yellow and blue stripes down their sides(although colors
hot months, make sure there is a fan to move air around to cool them off, and that they are not in direct sunlight.. You want humidity in the 60-80% range. This can be achieved by using potting Housing soil, orchid bark, sphagnum moss as a flooring substrate. A good rule of thumb for Red These substrates help hold Eye Tree Frogs is 5 gallons moisture in. You can also do per frog. A ten gallon tank is regular misting, or close off perfect for a pair of frogs. Flip part of the cage top to hold it on its end to make the tank in moisture. A good rule of taller, Red Eye Tree Frogs are thumb is, if the glass has waarboreal and like to climb. ter beading on it, its to moist. The cage top should be half Adjust as needed. It is a good glass, half screen to keep idea to mist your frogs a few humidity up. times a week.
While they can survive at temperatures ranging from 60-90f degrees, they do best can vary with region). The males get up to about 2 to 2 at a daytime temperature of ½ inches in size, the females 75-80f degrees, and a nightget slightly larger at 2 ½ to 3 time temp of 70-75f degrees. So in most places, room teminches. They have long orperature is fine. Avoid keepange toes with pads at the ing them at the extremes of end they use to climb trees. Their skin is delicate, so these their temperature range, as guys are more for looking at this can be unhealthy. Usually a low wattage heat light, than handling. or ceramic heater is all that is need to heat a tank. During
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They will require branches and plants to climb and have hidey holes. Diet Red Eye Tree Frogs are insectivorous. So a diet of crickets, mealworms, fruit flies, and just about any insect that fit in their mouth is fair game. I recommend gut loading any-
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thing you give them, as this adds to the nutritional value of your insects. Provide them a large water dish with fresh water, they rehydrate themselves by soaking in the dish. Use ONLY distilled water, or filtered and dechlorinated water. Chemicals in tap water can kill your frog.
Written by Jimmy Craig of Reptile Vendor. [http://www. reptilevendor.com] Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jimmy_ Craig
Maintenance Red Eye Tree Frogs are easy to maintain. Spot clean as needed to get dead insects and droppings out of the cage. And as needed (couple of times a year) change substrate so mold does not grow. After removing substrate, spray with a 5% bleach solution, then wash the tank out. Make sure to wash anything you sprayed with the bleach. And make sure to wash your hands after handling the cage and accessories.
Many People have asked us why we chose an image of the Red Eyed Tree Frog as the image for Pet Scene Magazine. We chose this image to represent our love of all pets, great and small and as a symbol to reflect that here at Pet Scene Magazine we are a wealth of information on all sorts of pets. From your common domestic pets, to farmyard pets and exotic pets - We’ve got you covered.
I would recommend Red Eye Tree Frogs for someone who is beginning in the hobby. They are simple to keep, and fun to look at.
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