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Mount Baker Experience - Fall 2009
Mount Baker Experience - Fall 2009
FEATURES 4 Fungi Fever!
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CONTENTS
Fall 2009
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10
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Fall is the time to go mushroom hunting in the woods. Some nice Chanterelles, perhaps?
6 Say cheese, please.
There are some artisanal cheesemakers that will definitely bring a smile to your face. Here are just a few of them...
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8 Get in shape for the season...
Every year you say you’ll get in shape before the winter sports season starts and every year your body aches after the first day.This year, do it with trainer PJ Wren.
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10 Get those laces tied...
and go for a hike in the hills. Here are some photos and ideas to inspire you and your friends.
15 Biggest year ever... Ride 542 just keeps on growing.Take a look at the photos and story on page 15.
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16 On the road...
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When you want a change from the great Northwest, head east and north to Sun Peaks near Kamloops, B.C.
THE USUAL FIND IT ONLINE
14 Out and About 19 Regional Map
On the Cover
www.mountbakerexperience.com: Read the current issue of Mount Baker Experience here, and find all the archives as well.
www.mtbakerchamber.org: Discover the area’s businesses.
On the Trail
www.weather.com: Get all the weather you need.
Photo by Tyler Mitchell
www.mtbaker.us: Find the latest information about the Mt. Baker Ski Area, including snow amounts, events and trails. www.wsdot.wa.gov/regions/northwest/traffic/bordercams: Need to know about border delays? Find out here.
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MOUNT BAKER
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e perience Printed in Canada Vol XXIII No. 4 Fall 2009 edition
Address: 225 Marine Drive, Blaine, WA 98230 Tel: 360/332-1777 Fax: 360/332-2777 Email: info@mountbakerexperience.com Web: www.mountbakerexperience.com Next edition: December 2009 Ads due: November 13
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Welcome to the Mount Baker Experience, the newspaper for and about the Mt. Baker area, published by Point Roberts Press, Inc. Locally owned and operated, the company also publishes The Northern Light, All Point Bulletin, Pacific Coast Weddings and Waterside in Blaine, Washington. Point Roberts Press is a member of the Washington Newspaper Publishers Association, chambers of commerce in Whatcom County and the Bellingham/Mt. Baker Convention and Visitors Bureau. The opinions expressed by contributors are their own and are offered for the general interest of readers. We welcome your letters; however, the opinions expressed are not necessarily those of the editor. For circulation and rate information, or to send your letters, please address to: Mount Baker Experience, 225 Marine Drive, Blaine, WA 98230, fax them to 360/332-2777 or email info@mountbakerexperience.com. Publisher/Managing Editor Patrick J. Grubb Associate Publisher/Advertising Manager Louise H. Mugar Editor/Layout Pat Grubb Reporters Jack Kintner, Tara Nelson Contributors Tyler Mitchell, PJ Wren, Cindy Bjorklun
Graphic Design Karena Crotto Advertising Sales Martha Alvarado Classified Sales Janet McCall Office Manager Heidi Holmes
This is where it all HAPPENS...
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Mount Baker Experience - Fall 2009
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One of the highlights of living in the Pacific Northwest occurs each year near the end of September. After the first heavy rains the delicious Pacific gold chanterelle mushrooms, a prized ingredient used by gourmet restaurants, sprouts forth from the earth under low-lying ground cover and decomposing trees. The chanterelle is a mycorrhizal mushroom, meaning it has a symbiotic relationship with other organisms, and grows near Western hemlock or other conifers in old- or second-growth forests. Because of its intricate relationship with its surroundings, the chanterelle is difficult to grow in controlled environments, meaning most available in supermarkets are wild harvested and cost upwards of $18 per pound. Fortunately, one doesn’t need to go broke to obtain them. It simply requires a willingness to spend some time in the woods and get a little dirt under your fingernails. The Pacific Northwest boasts delicious varieties of mushrooms nearly year round and has more varieties than any other region in the world. In addition to chanterelles, this corner of the world is home to porcini, morels, shaggy manes, lobster mushrooms or immature puffballs. Northwest Mushroomers Association member Jack Waytz said of the 3,000 different species of mushrooms worldwide, nearly 2,000 of those can be found close by in western Washington. He estimates there are 20 or 30 edible species available in Whatcom County. The Pacific golden chanterelle, however, is a relatively safe mushroom for beginners to hunt as it is one of the most easily distinguishable in the world. This is because the mushroom has a distinct yellow color, vase or funnel shape and distinctly large gills, which are actually shallow, thick edged wrinkles that descend down the bottom of the stem. It also has few look-alikes –the poisonous Jack-O-Lantern mushroom, which has a darker color and tighter gills, and the false chanterelle, which is not harmful if ingested but has an unmistakably awful flavor. “They’re really quite widespread,” said Waytz. “Basically the trick to finding them is just putting yourself in the woods – you will find them if you give yourself enough time. You just need to have patience, kind of like when people go fishing. A lot of it is luck and sometimes if you’re a day or two early or late, you miss them. But the worst thing that can happen is you spend a great day in the wilderness or in the alpines.” As with anything harvested in the wild, however, newbies should bring along a field guide (All That the Rain Promises and More: A Hip Pocket Guide to Western Mushrooms by David Arora is an excellent one; ISBN 0898153883, Ten Speed Press) and go with an experienced mushroomer their first time.
Northwest Mushroomers Association The Northwest Mushroomers Association has scheduled their annual wild mushroom show for Sunday, October 18, noon – 5 p.m. at Bloedel Donovan Park in Bellingham. The event will feature a showcase of locally harvested mushrooms; recipe samples, field guides and experts to help identify unknown species. Cost is $5 for adults, $3 for seniors and students, free for children under 12. Subsequent monthly meetings are scheduled for 7 p.m. on the second Thursday of the month at the Bellingham public library and hosts leading mushroom experts. The club schedules mushroom forays on almost a monthly basis. For more information about the club and their events visit www. northwestmushroomers.org, email vbiciunas@comcast.net. call 360/303-4079. Membership is $15 per year.
Mount Baker Experience - Fall 2009
The Vancouver Mycological Society North of the border mushroom enthusiasts gravitate to the Vancouver Mycological Society (VMS). This is a group of people who share an interest in mushrooms and fungi in all kinds of ways. Some are into hunting different varieties, others are there to photograph while some like an excuse to get out into the woods and Mother Nature. The VMS meets the first Tuesday of every month (excluding December, January, July and August), often with a guest speaker. Meetings are held in the Cedar Room of the Van Dusen Botanical Gardens, Oak & 37th Avenue, 7:30 pm. The group, led by knowledgeable members, regularly forages on weekends and organizes overnight field trips during mushroom season. In addition, it creates a quarterly newsletter called the Mycofile. On Sunday, October 25, the group will be holding its Annual Mushroom Show. Email info@vanmyco.com or call the Mushroom Hotline (recorded message) at 604/878-9878 for more details on the program for each meeting. Cost of membership is: Students/Seniors - $15, Adults - $20, Families - $25. Prospective members and guests are welcome to attend a limited number of meetings. There are a number of events, forays and dinners planned for the fall. A partial list includes: Saturday, October 17: Mushroom Festival Noon – 5 p.m., Madeira Park Community Hall (near Pender Harbor) Saturday, October 31: Two forays with Terry Taylor in Pacific Spirit Park at 16th and Sassamat in Vancouver. Times - 10 – 12 p.m. and 1 – 3 p.m. Sunday, November 8: Richmond Nature Park mushroom show.
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By Tara Nelson One of the great pleasures of life in the great Pacific Northwest in recent years has been the success and growth of artisanal food producers and purveyors. Nowhere is this more evident than in the shadow of Mt. Baker and its foothills. While some artisans are more recent to the field, others have been pursuing their craft for decades. If you are looking for delicious handmade artisanal cheeses, you need look no further than here. One of those cheesemakers is Pleasant Valley Dairy. For three generations, the Snook family at Pleasant Valley Dairy has been making Gouda in a dizzying array of delicious varieties including cumin, jalepeno, fine herbs and peppercorn; as well as a tangy Farmstead cheese; a Mutshli, or a Swiss-style cheese with a mild and nutty flavor; and a raw milk applewood smoked cheese on their bucolic 70-acre farm just south of Birch Bay on Kickerville Road. Milk for the cheeses come from a herd of about 50 rBST-free and pastureraised Brown Swiss, Jersey, Holstein, Hereshire, Dutch Belted and Guernsey cows that spend most of their days contentedly ruminating in a lush field on a green rolling hill behind their home. George Train, a former paratrooper for the U.S. Army of Swedish descent, bought the farm in 1963 while looking for a way to support his family after leaving the military. He and his wife began making cheeses at the kitchen table of their home until operation grew too costly and he was forced to take up other means of employment with the Alcoa-Intalco aluminum plant in Ferndale. It wasn’t until Alcoa sent Train to France on a business trip that he witnessed the variety of artisan cheese shops and came back with a renewed determination to make his business thrive. On his return, Train talked to heads of different agricultural universities, but received the most help from an Oregon State University professor who gave him a book on cheese making and told him to “go for it.” “The other county extensions offices of state universities were not looking forward to some renegade cheese maker out in Whatcom County,” said Train’s daughter Joyce Snook, who now runs the farm with her grown children, Mattie, 22, and Seth, 24. “They were afraid of dairy products that were unpasteurized.” Train teamed up with another Ferndale resident – Jack Appel – but the two parted ways with Appel opening Appel Farms in Ferndale and Train opening Pleasant Valley Dairy. “My grandpa wanted a simple cheese, something that didn’t need pasteurization and was easy to make, even without electricity,” she said. Train retired in 2006, but he still lives on a small parcel of land adjoining the farm. He is also the family expert go-to for advice.
Mount Baker Experience - Fall 2009
Up until last year, the farm was known as one of the few local dairies that sold raw, unpasteurized milk, which is considered by USDA to be less safe than pasteurized milk, but is revered by many for its nutritional benefits. Those benefits include better calcium absorption and the presence of enzymes that aid in digestion. Some of those components include CLAs or conjugated linoleic acid, a fatty acid that has been shown to aid in weight loss. Snook said although the farm has never had a customer get sick from its milk, they stopped sales because of the cumbersome and expensive licensing process. The transition has given the family more time to concentrate on the art of making cheese, the sales for which have skyrocketed in the past few years as locals’ tastes become more developed. Snook said they also began producing a traditional Norwegian cheese called “Noekkelost” in 2002 after a suggestion by Everybody’s Store owner Jeff Margolis, of Van Zandt. The cheese is flavored with cumin, caraway and cloves and is traditionally eaten during the Christmas season. Out on the farm, Mattie wears typical farm attire – a t-shirt, pants, knee-high rubber boots and a bandana to keep her hair back. She calls most of the cows by name, or at least she has a few favorites, pointing to a large Brown Swiss named Beth delicately scratching her ear with her back hoof. Another cow – a black Dutch Belted heifer with a large white stripe – is affectionately called “Oreo. ” The farm has little resemblance to the typical large dairy operation. The small-scale combined with a burgeoning demand for locally produced food has made business tough to keep up with. It could mean closing the on-site retail shop for a few weeks in the summer to build up enough stock. “We can’t make anymore cheese and we’re selling out like crazy,” Mattie said. “But we get the best milk when they eat grass and it makes the best cheese. I guess grandpa knew what he was doing.” The farm’s retail shop is open 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Monday through Saturday and is located at 6804 Kickerville Road in Ferndale. Their phone number is 360/366-5398. Other local cheese artisans and purveyors: Silver Springs Creamery Silver Springs Creamery sells batch pasteurized whole Jersey milk and artisan cheese from their Lynden farm. They offer Butterkase, Black Pepper, Danbo, Havarti, Herb, Jeddar, and a raw milk Danbo. Silver Springs Creamery is located at 256 East Hemmi Road in Lynden. They can be reached by calling 360/8201384. Their products are also available at Bargainica Natural Foods at 902 North State Street in Bellingham. Appel Farms Appel Farms produces delicious varieties of cheddar, feta, fromage blanc, gouda (including mild, sharp, aged and smoked varieties), the mild Indian cheese paneer and quark on their 300 cow farm using sustainable agriculture practices. Owners welcome visitors including tour groups to see the cows, watch them making cheese by hand and experience the farm. Appel Farms is open from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Monday through Saturday and can be reached by calling 360/3121431. They are located at 6605 Northwest Road in Ferndale. From I-5, take exit 262. Turn East onto Axton Road, go approximately three miles to the first four way stop. Turn North onto Northwest Road and go approximately three miles. Appel Farms is on the West side of the road. Grace Harbor Farms Grace and Tim Lukens, owners of Grace Harbor Farms, a small 55-dairy goat operation in Custer maintain one of only a few licenses in Washington State to sell raw, unpasteurized grade ‘A’ goat milk products. Grace Harbor Farms sells a variety of cheeses, yogurt and milk. They sell a delicious chevre made from Swiss dairy in several flavors including dill and chive, basil and garlic, sweet pepper and jalepeno. In addition, the farm is now selling free range, pasture-raised chicken as well as Guernsey milk and yogurt products, which have a sweeter flavor and richer color and higher nutrient content than regular milk. Grace Harbor Farms is located at 2347 Birch Bay-Lynden Road in Custer. They can be reached by calling 360/3664151 from 10 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. Monday through Saturday. Their website is www.graceharborfarms.com. Everybody’s Store In addition to a spectacular spread of fresh products including local wines and fresh produce grown on-site, Everybody’s Store boasts an incredible selection of local and imported cheeses, not the least of which is the Pleasant Valley Nokkelost, a Scandinavian holiday cheese commissioned from Pleasant Valley Farms by owner Jeff Margolis. The award-winning raw-milk cheese, traditionally eaten at Christmas time in scandinavian countries, contains cumin, cloves and caraway and is sold in two and six pound wheels. Margolis, however, is happy to cut smaller portions on his 106-year-old antique cheese wheel cutter. The cheese is also available online at www.everybodys.com or by calling 866/832-4695 and can be shipped nationwide. The store is on Hwy 9, Van Zandt, a few minutes from Mt. Baker Hwy.
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Maple Falls is the perfect stop on Mt. Baker Highway 542 when headed to and from Mt. Baker National Recreation Area and Silver Lake Park. Plan on stopping for a bite to eat at one of several restaurants, pick up some groceries, and even fill up the gas tank. Maps of the area are available free at the Mt. Baker Foothills Chamber of Commerce Visitor Center, located on the northwest corner of 542 and Silver Lake Rd.
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NEW! Gluten free pizza crusts, english muffins S SF U n io and baking at re Rec e er H s mixes. se Pas • Fresh organic produce & dairy On your way to and organic grass-fed beef Silver Lake Park? • Best beer & wine selection east of Bellingham Pick up trout • International foods • Bulk Foods flies, tackle, • Over 1,600 DVDs - classics worms & TV series
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Mount Baker Experience - Fall 2009
Preparing For the Slopes By PJ Wren Love your first day on the slopes each season, only to find yourself crippled and hitting the hot tub on your second day? Be smart this year - get ready for the hills before the snow falls! Increase your endurance, your core strength and your agility with the following pre-season downhill workout. Trainer’s Tips: Aim for three times a week and try to start your workouts at least four weeks before your season begins. These movements train the lower body muscles and the core, so I suggest adding three or four of your favorite upper body exercises for a total body workout. Ensure that you are able to maintain your form throughout the entire exercise and that you are still challenging yourself. You want it to be strenuous (otherwise how are you going to get better?), but you also want to do it right! If at all possible, seek out a personal trainer to keep an eye on your form, or do the exercises in front of a mirror and be your own trainer. Keep your spine long (no slouching!) and your core engaged throughout. An easy way to engage that core is to draw the belly button in towards the spine and hold that contraction while still maintaining a normal breathing pattern. And, most important … train hard and be brave. Warm up: 5 -10 minute light jog, incorporating side shuffles and arm circles throughout. Perform each exercise as a circuit, going through each movement with no rest between each exercise. Try to build up to 2-3 rounds of the circuit, resting for 2-3 minutes after each circuit. Walking Lunges: 30 reps Lunges are an important part of any skiing and boarding program. They train all the big guns of the lower body (quads, hamstrings and glutes), while at the same time challenging your balance. Stand with your feet shoulder width apart. Step one foot forward, with your heel touching the floor first. When it touches, your knee should be at a 90 degree angle and lined up with your toes, without going past them. Keep lowering your torso until your back knee is touching the floor, or as low as you can drop it. Lift your body back up again and swing the back leg forward and perform a lunge with that lead leg. Keep traveling forward until you have completed all your reps. Bunny Hops: 30 seconds This exercise will help with your parallel turns as well as powering up your lower leg muscles. Draw a six foot line in the ground either using chalk, tape or placing a skipping rope on the ground. With your knees soft and core engaged, tightly hop side to side quickly while traveling down the line. Keep your feet together and your body’s center of gravity over the line. Once you have mastered this movement, try to get more height with the hops.
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Unbalanced Wood Chop: 45 seconds Using a foam roller like I am using and placed lengthwise will make this exercise even more ski specific. Use either a dumbbell or a medicine ball to perform the wood chop. If you don’t have access to a foam roller, place a pillow under each foot and perform the exercise without any shoes on for more instability. Stand on foam roller with your hands above your head, your core engaged and your shoulders pulled back and down. Quickly throw the arms down like you are swinging an axe down to chop some wood, while at the same time performing a mini squat. This exercise should be done quickly and with control to gain the most benefit. Ski Pole Quick Lunges: 30 seconds This exercise is designed to get the heart rate up and work the power in your lower body muscles and the stabilizers in your core. Standing in between your poles, come down into a lunge and then propel yourself up and change lead legs. Try not to put too much weight on the ski poles. Hamstring curls: 15 - 20 reps each leg You can’t forget your poor hamstrings (the muscles behind your thighs). By targeting them specifically, you will help alleviate any muscle imbalances that tend to develop between them and the quads (front of the thigh muscle) and you will experience less leg fatigue after a full day on the slopes. Lying on your back with your shoes off and a towel under each heel, lift the hips as high off the floor as you can. Maintain this hip lift while slowly sliding the left foot forward until the leg is almost straight. Pull it back to start and slide the right foot out. Please note that this exercise must be performed on a slippery surface, such as hard wood or laminate flooring. Under the Rope Bobs: 45 seconds Gets your heart rate up and train your leg muscles in a functional riding stance. Tie a rope between two objects a little lower than your shoulders. Get under the rope in your rider’s stance and bob to the left and right of the rope. You will come up out of your stance after you bob out from under the rope, but ensure your stance is correct when moving directly under the rope. PJ Wren is a Vancouver, B.C. based personal trainer who has been helping people find their “inner athlete” for over 14 years.
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Mount Baker Experience - Fall 2009
Glacier Creations opens By Tara Nelson Those wanting to get a taste of Foothills culture should check out a new artists’ collective in Glacier. A group of artists and crafters from the Foothills area recently opened Glacier Creations, featuring mountain-centric art and other hand-crafted ware. President and co-founder Danielle Smith, a photographer and clothing artist, said the collective opened its doors in June after nearly a year of planning. The idea came about when she and other employees at Graham’s Store wanted a buildingto show off
their hand-crafted works. Building owner Gary Graham jumped on the idea and lent the group the use of a remodeled railcar he had stored on the back of the property behind the store. The space is a work of art in itself. The railcar’s steel walls have been cut and welded to make room for several small bay windows, the floors are painted with flowing koi fish and the back of the building is a community mural in progress. Smith, who moved to Glacier six years ago from Michigan, said she was surprised at the number of artists who
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Thank you! To All 2009 Participants in the 13th Annual Sumas Show & Shine
came out of the woodwork to support the venue. “There has never been anything like this in my time here,” she said. “To have this opportunity for people to get their art out there has really been exciting. It’s been amazing to see what people have brought in.” Smith said the goal was to display and sell local crafts and art in a way that gives back to the artists as well as the rest of the community. Current works include photography, jewelry and clothing by Smith; screen printing and cork boards by Abby McKinley; pottery by Diane Gilbraith; knit hats, bags and skirts by Anne Baker of Baker’s Boutiques; T-shirts by Jadia Elm; jewelry by Holly Johnston, Ashley Homan, Tina Jensen and Bella Yoho; oils and soaps
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by Brown Snout Farms in Maple Falls; tinctures and wild-crafted herbal remedies by Stephanie Hager; longboards, buttons and music by Cody Montgomery; and hand-blown glass pieces by Glacier Glassworks. Other works featured include beautiful soapstone carvings by Jim Millson. Glacier Creations is open from 10 a.m. – 6 p.m. Friday through Sunday during the fall months, although Smith said those hours will likely be extended in the winter. The collective welcomes new members and encourages those wishing to be involved to attend their meetings at 5 p.m. the last Thursday of each month. For more information, call 360/5999378 or email Glacier.Creations @gmail.com.
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Mount Baker Experience - Fall 2009
! e k i h a Take
Story by Tara Nelson/Photos by Tyler Mitchell
Fall is the perfect time to explore the North Cascades as the cooler temperatures, changing colors and fewer visitors can make hiking a much more pleasant experience. The following are a few favorite day hikes ranging from easy to more difficult in Whatcom and Skagit counties: Goat Mountain Location: 31 miles east of I-5 on Mount Baker Highway. Length: 8 miles round-trip. Elevation gain: 2,000 feet. Hike time: Approximately 4.5. Difficulty: Moderate This moderately difficult hike rewards hikers with views of the upper Nooksack River valley, waterfalls, wildflower meadows and vistas. The view from the first summit at 5,000 feet boasts spectacular south-facing views of Mt. Baker, Mt. Shucksan and other Cascade peaks on a clear day. The trail begins in heavy forest and switchbacks several dozen times before reaching sub-alpine forest and wildflower meadows and continuing until approximately 5,400 feet elevation on the shoulder of Goat Mountain where hikers can enjoy panoramic views of Price Lake at the bottom of Price Glacier on Mt. Shuksan. A few campsites are available in the summer after the snow melts. The trail is in good condition but the road has been closed since June for repair so hikers should add another 1.5 to 2 hours to the total trip time. Winchester Mountain Length: 1.9 miles, one-way. Elevation gain: 300 feet. Difficulty: More difficult Another trail with spectacular views is Winchester Mountain, a short but difficult trail that winds through beautiful meadows to a well-maintained fire lookout with perfect panoramic views of Mt.
Baker, Shuksan, American Border peak and the rugged peaks of the North Cascades. The two-mile trail starts between Twin Lakes and switchbacks through sub-alpine forests and meadows with constant views of the North Cascades before curving around the mountain to the fire lookout at 6,500 feet. Alpine flowers and wild blueberries are abundant along the trail and ripe for picking. The lookout, which is maintained by the Mt. Baker Club, is available on a first-come, first-serve basis and provides sleeping room for two. Note of caution - The Forest Service reports that steep snow slopes below the lookout can hold snow well into summer and recommends individuals check with the ranger station for conditions before hiking. Also, use caution when crossing the rock wall midway on the trail, as it is steep and partially eroded. Directions: Take State Route 542 east past Glacier approximately 13.5 miles. Turn left on Forest Service Road 3065. Look for a sign that reads “Tomyhoi Trail 5, Twin Lakes 7�. The road is steep and rough for 4.5 miles to the trailhead of Yellow Aster Butte and becomes incredibly bumpy the last two miles to Twin Lakes as it becomes a section of unmaintained road with no room to pass. Fourwheel drive may be required past the Yellow Aster Butte trailhead and many individuals park and walk up the steep road. Camping and fires are permitted. A toilet is located at the lookout.
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Mount Baker Experience - Fall 2009
Sauk Mountain Location: 32 miles east of Interstate 5 on State Route 20. Length: 4.2 miles round-trip. Hike time: Approximately 2.5 hours. Difficulty: Easy Although the drive from Whatcom County to Sauk Mountain is long, the vibrant alpine meadows and spectacular views of the Cascade mountain range make this hike well worth the travel time. The first 1.5 miles of trail switchbacks 26 times through wildflower meadows, providing constant views of the Skagit and Sauk river tributaries to the west and Whitehorse Mountain to the south. Although the meadows are incredibly steep (you’ll feel as though you are walking on the side of a cliff ) the slope of the switchback trail ranges from moderate to easy. Following the trail to the left at the end of the switchbacks takes a turn around to the east side of the mountain for another half mile to the rocky summit (elevation 5,330 feet). Taking a right turn, however, leads 1.5 miles down (descending 1,000 feet) the east side of the mountain to Sauk Lake. The east side of the mountain is usually covered in snow yearround, which can provide cooling refreshment on hot summer days. The top of the ridge provides 360-degree panorama of the North Cascades to the east, Mount Baker, and the Three Sisters mountain range to the north. Keep an eye out for marmots, or large rodents resembling ground hogs that are abundant near the top of the mountain. Directions: From Bellingham, take I-5 south to Cook Road exit. Take a left at Cook Road. At the State Route 20 junction in SedroWoolley, take a left and travel east for approximately 32 miles. At milepost 96 (just past Sauk Mountain Pottery) take another left on Sauk Mountain Drive. Follow the gravel road for 7.5 miles to the trailhead parking lot. The road is narrow and steep with several blind corners so caution is recommended. Four-wheel drive is helpful, but not necessary. Church Mountain Location: 38 miles east of I-5 on State Route 542. Length: 8.4 mile, Elevation gain: 4,100 feet. Hike time: 5 to 6 hours. Difficulty: More difficult Located approximately one mile east of the Glacier public service center, Church Mountain offers a challenging hike with rewarding views for those who are willing to suffer wobbly legs and possible blisters to get there. The trail begins through dense forest and continues for three miles with an elevation gain of 1,000 feet per mile before it levels out. The first clearing is at 6,100 feet and opens out into vast wildflower meadows for a half-mile before it begins to switchback up a rocky ridge. An abandoned fire lookout at the top provides panoramic
views of Mt. Baker and Mt. Shuksan. The ridge is part of the High Divide, a valley of meadows that continues for 10 miles, according to Ken Wilcox’s book, Hiking Whatcom County. During the late summer, flies tend to be a nuisance so be sure to wear plenty of insect repellant. Extra water is also recommended, although there is a creek near the top of the trail. Directions: From Bellingham, take I-5 exit for SR 542 and follow east approximately 38 miles. Turn left on USFS Road #3040. Follow approximately three miles. The trailhead is at the end of the road. Parking is also available at the creek approximately one mile south. Trail closed until September 30. Heather Meadows Location: 24 miles east of Glacier on State Route 542. Length: 1.5 to 9 miles. Hiking time: 2 to 6 hours. Difficulty: Easy Heather Meadows recreational area is a mecca of scenic vistas and hiking trails, ranging from easy to moderate. Two popular hikes are the leisurely Bagley Lake trail (1.5 miles with little elevation gain) and the more difficult Chain Lakes trail. To access the Bagley Lakes trail from the Heather Meadows trailhead near the ski area, follow the trail down toward the dam but turn left before crossing the bridge (the path on the other side of the dam is not suitable for hiking). Although flat and unchallenging, the Bagley Lakes trail offers consistent and stunning views of Table Mountain and the various lakes and streams. Such spectacular views were filmed in the movie Call of the Wild. For a leisurely stroll, follow the trail a half-mile around Bagley Lakes to a bridge and take a left to connect to Wild Goose trail, which loops back to the parking lot. Following the trail across the bridge, on the other hand, leads to Chain Lakes (4 miles) with an elevation gain of 1,100 feet and a descent of 500 feet on the other side of Herman Mountain. The upper-most portion of Heather Meadows is Artist Point (elevation 5,140 feet), which offers 360-degree views of Mt. Baker, Table Mountain and Mt. Shuksan. Most people drive the 2.5 miles past the trail head parking lot to Artist Point, although the rocky ridge – usually covered in snow year-round – is also accessible by following the Chain Lakes trail approximately two miles past Chain Lakes. The area is so popular among tourists it could very well be dubbed the Disneyland of Mt. Baker. Likewise, those looking for more wilderness and less people may opt for another hike. Be sure also to check out Picture Lake just below the ski area. Directions: From Bellingham, take I-5 exit 255 (Sunset Drive), and follow east on Mount Baker Highway for 58 miles. Artist Point at Heather Meadows is the end of the highway. For updates on road closures and pass reports, call the DOT at 800/695-7623. State Route 542 (commonly referred to as “Mt. Baker Highway”)
More trails to try Access
Trail Use
Length
Difficulty
Useage
(One-Way Miles)
Fire and Ice #684.2 Lake Ann #600 Picture Lake Path Ptarmigan Ridge #682.1 Table Mountain #681 Wild Goose #684.3
SR 542 SR 542 SR 542 SR 542 SR 542 SR 542
Hiking, Barrier Free, Family Use, Interp Hiking Hiking, Barrier free, Family Use, Interp Hiking Hiking Hiking
0.5 Loop 4.1 0.5 4.0 1.0 2.5
Easiest More Difficult Easiest More Difficult More Difficult More Difficult
Heliotrope Ridge Location: 1 mile east of Glacier on State Route 542. Length: 6 to 8 miles. Elevation gain: 1,400 feet. Hiking time: 4 to 6 hours. Difficulty: More difficult Heliotrope Ridge offers the closest view of Coleman Glacier within the Mt. Baker wilderness – and all from the safety of a wellmaintained trail. This popular hike starts in old growth forest and continues for two miles before reaching open meadows with lots of wildflowers, streams and waterfalls. Taking a right at the fork in the trail approximately two miles in leads to the Coleman Glacier climbers’ route to Mt. Baker’s 10,781-foot summit. Unless you packed rope, ice axes and crampons, however, you should follow the trail left, leading to a glacial valley (called a lateral moraine) to the top of the Heliotrope Ridge crest, where you can enjoy 360degree views of Cascadia and an arm’s-reach view of the glacier. Be sure to wear shoes you don’t mind getting wet, as getting to the top requires crossing several streams, the flow of which is heavily weather and seasonally dependent. Directions: From Bellingham, take I-5 exit 255 (Sunset Drive), and follow east on Mt. Baker Highway for 31 miles, about one mile past the town of Glacier. Turn right on Glacier Springs Road (FS Road 39). Follow about eight miles to the trailhead parking lot. Sources: Hiking Whatcom County by Ken Wilcox, Pacific Northwest Hiking by Ron C. Judd and Dan A. Nelson (Foghorn Press), Day Hike North Cascades by Mike McQuaide (Sasquatch Books), Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest Ranger District web site: www.fs.fed.us/r6/mbs
Important things to remember: Always check trail conditions (www.fs.fed.us/r6/mbs) before you head out. Quick, unexpected changes in weather conditions could result in hikers being stranded or separated from vehicles. Always carry the 10 essentials: map of the area, compass, first aid kit, flashlight with extra batteries and bulb, water and extra food, extra clothing, including rain gear, pocket knife, sunglasses and sunscreen, matches in a waterproof container, and candle or other fire starter. Always be sure to let someone know where you are going hiking and when you plan to return home. Be sure to purchase a recreation pass. Visit www.fs.fed.us/r6/ passespermits/vendors.php to find a vendor.
North Fork Nooksack River
Mt. Baker / Heather Meadows Trail Name
is also designated as a National Forest Scenic Byway by the Washington State Department of Transportation (DOT).
Heavy Heavy Extra Heavy Extra Heavy Extra Heavy Heavy
Base Elev.(ft)
4400 4700 4100 5100 5100 4400
Boundary Way #688 FS RD 31 & TR 635 Hiking Canyon Ridge #689 FS RD 3140 Hiking, Stock, Bikes, Motorbikes Damfino Lakes #625 FS RD 31 Hiking Hannegan Pass #674 FS RD 32 Hiking, Stock Hannegan Peak #674.1 TR 674 Hiking High Divide #630 FS RD 3060 & SR 542 Hiking, Stock High Pass #676 FS RD 3065 Hiking Horseshoe Bend #687 SR 542 Hiking, Family Use Nooksack Cirque #750 FS RD 32 Hiking Silesia Creek #672 FS RD 3065 Hiking, Stock Skyline Divide #678 FS RD 37 Hiking, Stock Tomyhoi Lake #686 FS RD 3065 Hiking Yellow Aster Butte #686.1 FS RD 3065 Hiking
4.1 10.3 3.0 4.0 1.0 2.5 4.0 1.5 4.5 4.5 3.5 4.0 2.1
More Difficult More Difficult More Difficult More Difficult More Difficult More Difficult More Difficult Easiest More Difficult More Difficult More Difficult More Difficult More Difficult
Low Low Heavy Extra Heavy Heavy Heavy Medium Extra Heavy Heavy Low Extra Heavy Heavy Heavy
4200 4200 4200 3100 3100 1800 5200 1200 2200 5200 4400 4200 3600
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Mount Baker Experience - Fall 2009
Traveling Highway 20 Story and photos by Jack Kintner
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Washington State Highway 20 has a lot of places along the way to stop as it climbs toward 5, 470-foot Washington Pass. This travelogue begins east of the town of Concrete and hits a few of the lesser known attractions, although Concrete is an interesting place in its own right. For instance, the town has an air museum and a number of buildings dating to the early 1900s, including the Hub Tavern which features an 18th century 30foot mahogany bar made from a single plank of wood. If it looks like a movie set, it was – it’s where Robert De Niro, Ellen Barkin and Leonardo DiCaprio filmed “This Boy’s Life” in 1992 and is also the site of the Skagit Bald Eagle festival, set for January 30 and 31, 2010 (www.skagiteagle.org), based at Concrete High School. Just east of town stop at Stephen and Nicola’s Sauk Mountain Pottery (milepost 94). He’s the potter, a transplant from Pennsylvania who has taken to life in the sticks with gusto and has more stories than you’ll have time to hear. Nicola is an actress from London who has several TV and stage shows to her credit, including several years with the Seattle Reperatory Theater. Milepost 96 through 100 will give you a chance to see wildlife, especially eagles in season, and the first of several gorges that the Skagit River has carved. The eagles begin returning in the fall as the salmon come upstream to spawn. Be sure to pull well off the road before getting out to look. Ideal places are Rockport State Park (milepost 96), Howard Miller Steelhead Park (milepost 97), an unmarked dirt turnoff at milepost 98 and what locals call “100 mile park,” at, you guessed it, milepost 100. This is also an ideal canoe and kayak put-in for a quick look at the heart of the eagle viewing stretch, a four mile run that ends in Rockport and can have as many as 400 birds. At Rockport (milepost 97) you can visit the Skagit Eagle Festival Museum. Highway 20 begins to show you some interesting geology from this point eastward. The Skagit, like most west-flowing rivers in the Cascades, courses through alternating gorges, or narrow canyons with rock walls, and open valleys. As you move east the gorges become longer and the rock older. It was an ideal site for the Seattle City Light dams built in the 1900s because the generous expanses of bedrock exposed by the last ice age now serve to anchor the mammoth structures. The Skagit once flowed eastward to the Fraser River, joining it near Hope, B.C., before being blocked by a mile-
thick layer of ice. It broke free from this confinement to the west, carving the deep gorges you now see and drive through on Highway 20. When the road is straight and flat, think valley, and when it gets twisty and close to the rock walls and the river, think gorge. Stop for organic blueberries at Concordia Farm at milepost 101, then drive through the broad valley at what was once Corkindale (milepost 102), a pioneer settlement long since abandoned to the elements. Stop to sample the goods at the Glacier Winery (milepost 104) before entering Marblemount where you’ll find Clark’s, a dressed-up fishing resort and restaurant called “The Eatery.” It’s a gathering place for locals any one of whom can regale you with tales of the old days. Across the street is a small wayside chapel, and behind that is a complex of trails that lead to the riverbank and a wellknown fishing spot called the Chapel Hole that was a favorite of the writer (and fly fisherman) Zane Grey. Look for the old ferry landing, too. Ferries were common along the lower river before the dams subdued the river enough to build bridges. The Buffalo Run Inn (milepost 106, and another good place to eat) is at the corner in Marblemount, and the Cascade River Road crosses the Skagit here. If you were to follow it to the end you’d find high mountain lakes that have Washington’s only known population of an arctic trout species called grayling. Before proceeding east on Highway 20 you might want to gas up as the next services are 70 miles away. Six miles further on (milepost 112) you enter the North Cascades National Park Service Complex that includes the Ross Lake National Recreation Area. Look for a turnoff there that has a very informative sign covering the whole area as well as restrooms. After crossing into Whatcom County at milepost 116 to 118, you’ll pass the first of the three dams, a small one that created picturesque little Gorge Lake and flooded a dangerous part of the old Skagit River Trail along the bank at what was once known as the Devil’s Elbow. An early pioneer once wrote, “The suspension bridge here should have a guard rail on the side as it sways with the wind and is missing several planks. I’ll not cross it on horseback again.” The colors of this lake and the next two (Diablo and Ross) are turquoise, jade and teal respectively, and are produced by suspended mineral deposits. The North Cascades Visitor Center is on your right
Mount Baker Experience - Fall 2009
at milepost 120, just before the tiny company town (Seattle City Light) of Newhalem. Reached via a onelane bridge that has a stop light, the visitor center has an outdoor display of the geology of the area and also has an archaeological site, a 1,400-year-old native hunting camp, reached by a wide barrier-free trail. Newhalem, be warned, takes speed limits very seriously because of the number of pedestrians that roam around looking at everything from picnicking spots in the woods to birds and rock formations. There’s a lot to see here. When built in 1928 by J.D. Ross, the “father of Seattle City Light,” tourists from Seattle made the auto-and-rail journey to Newhalem to boat across the glacial waters of Diablo Lake, feast on cookhouse chicken, take a ride on the open-air “incline railway” and enjoy spectacular light shows – complete with recorded bird calls – that turned Ladder Creek Falls into a wooded fairyland. Ross’ Disneyesque approach to decorating what was already a fine natural setting died with him, and he’s buried here, but a version of the tour continues. Cross the river on a suspension bridge off Main Street for a nice walk among giant cedars. For information on tours of the dams and facilities go to www.ci.seattle.wa.us/light/tours/Skagit. This is also the entrance to what geologists consider the heart of the North Cascades, with high bedrock walls lining each side of the road. From here on out you’re in the park and there are no more towns. The Gorge Creek overlook is next at milepost 123. The bridge is a steel girder. For a good top-down look at a water-carved gorge, stop mid-span, open your car door and look straight down through the girder over 100 feet to the creek below. At Milepost 125, pass the turnoff to the company
town of Diablo, just below the second of three dams, and at milepost 127 pass the turnoff to what was once Diablo Resort, now the North Cascades Environmental Learning Center. The road crosses the crest of the dam, its art deco lamps and stylized barriers reflecting its 81-year-old age. Entrance to the center is restricted. To find out about the center’s many programs go to www.ncascades.org or call 360/856-5700. Eastbound around Diablo Lake cross Colonial Creek (milepost 128) and pass the entrance to the Colonial Creek Campground. This is a good canoeing and kayaking put-in as the lake is sheltered here from the wind that can come up very suddenly. Two miles farther on stop at the Diablo Lake overlook at Milepost 131 and note the heavily veined gneiss and quartz wall. The quartz, prospectors felt, indicated the presence of gold, leading to several local gold rushes in the 19th and 20th centuries. At milepost 134 the trail to Ross Lake and the Ross Lake Resort will be on your left, and then the road straightens out to follow a long valley upward to Rainy Pass (milepost 157) and the top, Washington Pass (milepost 165). Between the two is the trailhead for the short but, in the fall, spectacular hike to Blue Lake where the Larch trees turn a magnificent golden color. The hike is right at the spine of the Cascades so has flora and fauna from both the east and the west slope of the Cascade Range. Whether you continue east toward Early Winters and Winthrop or turn around and go back west, there’s much to discover on Highway 20. You’ll find friendly people eager to show you around and happy that you chose their place to stop, stretch and explore.
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14
Mount Baker Experience - Fall 2009
Out & About WHAT’S HAPPENING BOOK & POTTERY SALE AT THE DEMING LIBRARY: September 18, 19 25, & 26. Stop by the library and find the books that want to go home with you. The pottery lady, Natalie from Cascadia Stoneware will be selling her pottery on September 18 & 19. 5044 Mt. Baker Highway, 592-2422. COMMUNITY GARAGE SALE: Saturday, September 19. IGA parking lot. Sign up to sell your items or just stop by to find a treasure. Vendor fee of $20 is donated to the Deming Library. FREE COMMUNITY BREAKFAST: Saturday, September 26, 8 – 11 a.m. Sponsored by the Mt. Baker Lions Club. Kendall elementary school. SCORPION MOUNTAIN HIKE: Saturday, September 26. Check out this amazing ridge hike in the cooler autumn air. 9 miles round trip. Meet at 8 a.m. Sunnyland School, corner of James and Maryland St, Bellingham. For info, call Paul, 676-9843 or www.MountBakerClub.org. SOUTH COUNTY BICYCLE TOUR: September 26, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Join members of Whatcom Land Trust’s staff as we bicycle our way through conservation properties at the South end of Lake Whatcom and along the South Fork/Saxon area. This loop is approximately 20 miles long and the pace is slow to moderate. Bring lunch money as we plan to stop at the Blue Mountain Grill for lunch and a beer toward the end of the ride! Call 650-9470 to register. Free to WLT members. $5 to $10 non-member donation requested. EVENING HIKE ON STIMSON FAMILY NATURE RESERVE: Wednesday, September 30. Visit a local forest preserve in the evening. Meet at 5:30 p.m. at Sunnyland School, corner of James Street and Maryland or at 5:45 at the trailhead. Call Paul to confirm, 676-9843. WHATCOM COUNTY LIBRARY TRUSTEE LISTENING TABLES: Deming Library: Wednesday, Oct. 7, 3:30 – 5:30 p.m., 5044 Mt. Baker Hwy., 592-2422. Everson Library: Thursday, Oct. 8, 2 – 4 p.m., 104 Kirsch Drive, 966-5100. Maple Falls Library: Tuesday, September 29, 11 a.m. – 1 p.m., 7509 Mt. Baker Hwy, 599-2020. Sumas Library: Saturday, Oct. 10, noon – 2 p.m., 451 2nd Street, 988-2501. Whatcom County residents are invited to stop by and give their trustees feedback on library services at Whatcom County libraries. ROCKTOBERFEST GEM AND MINERAL SHOW: Saturday & Sunday, October 10 & 11, Totem Middle School, 7th Street & State Avenue, Marysville. Door prizes, exhibits, raffle drawing, demonstrators, dealers, food service. For info, call 425/238-8222 or email bill-jj@comcast.net. CRAFT AND ANTIQUE SHOW: October 15 – 17. Northwest Washington Fairgrounds, 1775 Front Street, Lynden. Admission $8. For info, www.lyndencraftantiqueshow.com. ANNUAL MEETING OF THE DEMING LIBRARY: Saturday, October 17, 7 p.m. Deming Library. 5044 Mt. Baker Highway, 592-2422. MT. BAKER FILM FESTIVAL: October 22. Film festival and pre showcase the movie makers and photographers of our industry. The doors open at 6:00 pm for a Vendor Expo, carnival games for prizes, a DJ and more. The movies start at 7:00 and will be showing at the Mt. Baker Theatre in Bellingham. Movies are rated PG-13. 9:00 After-Party at the Wild Buffalo, Bellingham. Tickets: Mt. Baker Business Office, 360.734.6771, 1019 Iowa Street, Bellingham. SKI/SNOWBOARD SWAP & SALE: Friday, October 23, 4 – 9:30 p.m., Saturday, October 24,9 a.m. – 4 p.m. Bloedel Donovan Gym, 2214 Electric St., Bellingham. Buy or sell your used gear. Equipment drop-off October 22, 4 p.m. at sale site or at Mt. Baker Film Festival, Mt. Baker Theater. More info, www.komokulshanskiclub.org CANYON CREEK RESTORATION TOUR: Saturday, October 24,10 a.m. – 2 p.m. The creek provides critical habitat for native spring Chinook, but a levee built to protect the properties also created a barrier to salmon moving upstream to spawn. WLT partnered with Whatcom County to remove a portion of the levee to address the barrier. Come see the result of this restoration story with project manager John Thompson. Call 650-9470 to register. Free to WLT members. $5 to $10 non-member donation requested.
ONGOING MEETINGS/EVENTS EVERGREEN WATER & SEWER DISTRICT: Monthly commissioner’s meeting is the fourth Wednesday of each month at 7 p.m., district office, 6229 Azure Way. For more info, call 360/599-1699. EVERSON/NOOKSACK CHAMBER OF COMMERCE MEETING: Fourth Tuesday, noon, Everson Senior Center. For more info, call 360/966-3407 or www.eversonnooksackchamber.org. FRIENDS OF THE DEMING LIBRARY MEETING: Fourth Tuesday, 7p.m., Deming Library. Info: 592-2422. GLACIER CHAMBER OF COMMERCE MEETING: Third Tuesday, 7 p.m., Glacier Visitor Center, 9973 Mt. Baker hwy. www.glacierchamber.org. Email: info@glacierchamber.org or 599-2299. KNIT NIGHT AT EVERSON LIBRARY: Tuesdays, 6:30 – 8:00 p.m. Bring your knitting, crocheting or other portable hand work to enjoy a casual evening doing something you love. Everson-McBeath Library; 104 Kirsch Dr. Everson. For more info, call 360/966-5100. NORTH CASCADES NATIONAL PARK HEADQUARTERS INFO STATION: Weekdays, 8 a.m. – 4:30 p.m. (maps, trail conditions & more) 810 State Route 20, Sedro Woolley. 360/854-7200 or www.nps.gov/noca. MT. BAKER FOOTHILLS CHAMBER OF COMMERCE MEETING: First Tuesday of every month at 6:30 p.m. at the Inn at Mt. Baker. Info: call 360/599-1518 or www.mtbakerchamber.org. MT. BAKER FOOTHILLS COMMUNITY DEVELOPMENT ASSOCIATION: Meets third Wednesday, 7 p.m., Kendall Elementary School. For info, email nuqualum@gte.net. MT. BAKER FOOTHILLS VISITOR CENTER: Wednesday – Sunday, 10 a.m. – 4 p.m., 7802 N. Silver Lake Rd., Maple Falls. For info, call 360/599-1518 or www.mtbakerchamber.org. MT. BAKER HIKING CLUB ACTIVITIES: Participate in hiking and other activities. For info and costs, call 360/7344461 or visit their website at www.mountbakerclub.org.
Mount Baker Experience - Fall 2009
15
Ride 542 s Tonny Joergensen of Denmark and Jeanne DaGloria of Brazil competed in the Century. s Above, Russell Stevenson won the men’s division in 1:24. Above right, organizer Charlie Heggem and women’s champion Jennifer Slawta.
s 11-year-old Alex Bridge has a determined look before the start.
Story and photos by Jack Kintner This year’s seventh running of Ride 542 from Glacier to Artist Point was slower and more technical in racing terms than last year’s pace but still brought out record-setting numbers of riders and spectators. Once again the weather cooperated with clear skies and temperatures approaching 90 on Saturday and Sunday. “I had to move a lot of water around, especially for the run,” said event coordinator Charlie Heggem, adding that he now draws three times the participants and spectators to Glacier than February’s Legendary Banked Slalom does. “For restaurants like Milano’s and Graham’s it’s their best weekend of the year,” Heggem said. Indeed, this year Festival 542 took in the entire weekend, with a cyclocross race, and a cross-country run on Saturday, Eat 542 on Saturday night organized by the local chambers of commerce, and the hill climb on Sunday plus a street fair on the lawn behind Gary Graham’s house. “This is great!” Graham shouted over the din of hundreds of post-race riders and spectators eating to the music of bands on a stage built against the back wall of his house, once the Glacier train depot. “Now it’s more like Grand Central Station,” he joked, “but isn’t it wonderful? The riders and racers all start in Glacier at staggered times, fastest starting last, but teams that ride together work their way through the bunches quickly. This year there were fewer organized teams so with everyone on their own a genuine Tour de France-style peloton developed, the thick gaggle of riders winding its way through the lower parts of the ride toward the 10 mile pull up to the finish at Artist Point. This year’s men’s division winner, first timer Russ Stevenson of Seattle, rode the course in 1:25:16, almost nine minutes slower than his friend and racing team mate Ian McKissick’s record-breaking 1:16:32 set last year. Jennifer Slawta of Medford, the reigning Oregon women’s hill climb champ and record holder for several high altitude climbs, finished in 1:31:00, 4:24 off Leah Goldstein’s record pace of last year. Neither Goldstein nor McKissick competed
s Joe Myers, 52, of Bellingham was one of two unicycle riders in the race, finishing in 2:42:30.
s At the top and finished! this year, prompting race officials to offer $10,000 to the winning woman rider if she also broke Goldstein’s record. Seventy-year-old Tom Mage of Seattle, a first-time rider, was the oldest man and in company with 66-year-old Jay Haavik smashed the record for his age group by almost an hour, riding up in 2:10. Just three days before Mage was riding his mountain bike in the Himalayas. “I was over 15,400 feet for three nights, and crossed several passes higher than that, the highest at 17,400 feet,” Mage said. To equal that you could put the 4,300-foot elevation gain of the Ride 542 on top of Mount Baker and still have well over 2,000 feet left over. The oldest woman rider was 75-year-old Leah Tarlington from Bellingham, back for her third ride. She finished in just over four hours. Eight-year-old Josh Davis of Bothell rode to the top on his mountain bike in 4:04:45, followed one second later by his parents, Peder and Karen. His dad explained that the week before they rode to the top of Mt. Constitution on Orcas Island and saw Mt. Baker in the distance. “When Josh said he’d like to try that one, too, I told him that there is this Ride 542, so here we are,” said Davis. Joe Myers, 52, of Bellingham was one of two unicycle riders in the race, finishing in 2:42:30. Two years ago he rode his custom Chris Holm cycle with a Schlumpf two-speed hub up in 2:13. “But last year I couldn’t. After riding over 800 kilometers, I broke my leg on the last day on a tour in Nova Scotia.” Several couples entered the ride together. Tonny Joergensen of Denmark and Jeanne DaGloria of Brazil traveled thousands of miles to ride in the Century category, a ride that involved going up and down the course twice to make 100 miles for the day. Jan and Jim Gregg came from Winthrop, where Jim, 67, is a foreman on the Wilson Ranch. They train on the North Cascades Highway where the highest pass is about 300 feet higher than the hill climb’s 5,140 foot altitude finish at Artist Point. Bryan Terrell of Seattle and Maria Vucheva of Bulgaria finished together in 2:37:39 and celebrated with a kiss. Bruce Greenstein, 41, of Seattle was one of two to enter all
three events for the weekend, riding the off-road cyclocross at Silver Lake County Park – “Major hill climbing, all on trails, no pavement” – Run 542 through Heather Park – “Awesome scenery, kept my mind off my cramping legs” – and Sunday’s hill climb. “I’m not very good at anything, so I do it all,” Greenstein joked, “and the weather for this year’s ride was superb.” There were a few incidents during the actual running of the race. The first rider to finish, aside from the Century riders who had an hour’s head start, was Shaun Bridge of Sedro Woolley. He fell at the finish line when a course volunteer tried to slow him down for the final time check. “My legs were kind of rubbery after the climb,” he said, “and I guess she didn’t realize that. When she tried to slow me down I couldn’t get my feet out of my clips fast enough and over I went.” Unfortunately, Bridge fell directly on to the finish line computer which then crashed to the pavement, creating a crisis for Heggem’s volunteers. “But Steve Work pulled a miracle,” Heggem said later, “managing to cob together a working computer system after both our primary and secondary systems went down. Giving riders their times is absolutely essential, especially since we want them all to have a good enough time that they all come back.” Heggem said that putting the weekend on with his 45 volunteers “is like a complicated chess match with lots of little changes each year. The bike racks, for example, that Paul Engle of Wild and Scenic Rivers built really helped.” The racks held 72 bikes and were also used for valet bike parking at the street fair. “These are expensive bikes, and their owners are very particular about how they’re handled and where they’re stored, so that service proved essential,” Heggem said. Glacier Ski Shop provided space for registration, local lodging was coordinated by Jim and Julie Evanglista at Mt. Baker View and,“Having the parking down at the Dislodge B&B was key in keeping the town from getting clogged up,” Heggem said. “This is getting to be a big weekend, and every component has someone local kicking in and helping out. It’s a great community centered event.”
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Mount Baker Experience - Fall 2009
s A view of the village at night time.
Hit the powder at Sun Peaks By Pat Grubb Riders at Mt. Baker are a notoriously loyal and fanatical bunch but sometimes even their eyes wander and thoughts of other challenges cross their minds. Enter Sun Peaks, the answer to their wanderlust. Just a little over four hours away from Vancouver (and less from the Sumas border crossing) Sun Peaks is Whistler with drier snow and way smaller crowds. Located just outside of Kamloops in the B.C. interior, Sun Peaks is a three mountain complex that provides challenge aplenty regardless of your skill set. It has 122 runs on 3,700 acres plus 25 miles of Nordic trails and is British Columbia’s second largest ski area. Twelve lifts service a variety of terrain from powder-filled bowls to glades to long cruiser runs up to five miles long. Three terrain parks and four children’s learning areas provide thrills and safety. The summit tops out at 7,060 feet and there is 2,891 skiable vertical feet to play on. The slopes are classified as 10% novice, 58% intermediate and 32% expert. One great thing about the resort’s design is that riders can access slopes of varying difficulty from the same chair, meaning family members of different ability can still spend time together. Bring your sun tan lotion - the area gets over 2,000 hours of sunshine a year. Speaking of which, the configuration
of the slopes means riders can follow the best light. No more flat light! The village is an attractive, low-key affair that is comfortable for singles and families. Restaurants, shops and lodging are situated right by the slopes. Best part? Throughout the season you can strap on your snowboard or skiis and slide right to the lifts. Apart from the slopes, there are lots of activities to keep everyone occupied. Moonlight guided snowshoe tour? Check. Want to mush your own dogsled team? Check. Play pickup hockey on the open air ice rink? Check. Horsedrawn sleigh? Yup. Lift-accessed tube park? Natch. Heated outdoor pools and hob tubs at the Sports Center. Why, of course. Throughout the season, there are special events that will make it difficult for you to pick the best time to visit. In January, there is the annual Sun Peaks Icewine Festival. Canada and B.C. in particular are famous for their icewines, wines that are made from grapes that have been allowed to freeze on the vine. Later, the resort holds the Velocity Challenge, a FIS World Speed Skiing World Cup series. Every march, close to 100 of the world’s fastest skiers hit speeds in excess of 100 mph on a straight downhill course. Getting back to the slopes, there’s a lot to cover, especially for first-time visitors. The resort hosts complimentary moun-
tain tours daily that provide an excellent overview. Even better, director of skiing Nancy Greene can usually be found at the top of Sunburst Chair at 1 p.m. to take visitors on mountain tours. Be prepared to ski fast - Nancy is a Canadian Olympic gold medalist and two-time overall World Cup title holder. Don’t bother asking for ski equipment recommendations. She swears by Rossignol, always has, always will. Getting There: Driving: Take the Trans-Canada (Highway 1) from Vancouver to Hope then the Coquihalla (Highway 5), a fast, all-weather highway to Kamloops. Follow signs from there. Flying: There are regularly scheduled flights to Kamloops from Vancouver and Calgary. Shuttle buses will take you to the resort. Where to Stay: You have a multitude of choices from charming inns on the Continental plan, to over-size houses that accommodate multi-family groups. Sun Peaks offers a central reservation service (800/807-3257) or you can make arrangements online (www.sunpeaksresort.com). We stayed at Sun Peaks Lodge in the heart of the village. Very friendly staff, great food, reasonable prices. So, there you have it. Great facilities, beautiful terrain, super powder. What more could you ask for?
Mount Baker Experience - Fall 2009
Left, cutting a line; top, horse-drawn sleigh in the village; above, enjoying a progressive tasting during the Icewine Festival; top right, competitor in the Velocity Challenge; right, the course; snow ghosts at the summit; below left, Olympic Gold Medalist Nancy Greene, left center, with guests, from left, Louise Mugar, Alex Grubb and Maria Swanson. All photos by Adam Stein. Nancy Greene photo by Pat Grubb
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Mount Baker Experience - Fall 2009
Transitions... Jake Steiner, of Glacier, a lifetime logger, road builder and conservationist, died on July 10, 2009, at the age of 91. Jake was the son of Herman and Lina Steiner, both of whom immigrated from Thuringia, Germany, to homestead in Glacier. Steiner worked in the steam-powered Bloedel Donovan Mill at Lake Whatcom and at the Warnick Mill at Glacier. He received an exemption from the World War II service because of his skills in sprucelogging operations were needed to supply wing spar material for military aircraft. He worked with many people in the woods, a list of whom serves as a who’s who of logging in the Mt. Baker area. Steiner was honored with the Bull-of-the-Woods chair at the Deming Logging Show several times, but characteristically always turned it down. After retirement Jake managed timberland on the family homestead, just east of the Nooksack bridge near
s Jake Steiner
his home in Glacier. It’s one of the few places on the Nooksack that serves all five spawning salmon species plus sea-run cutthroat. Steiner will be remembered as a local history buff who sometimes surprised listeners with his spirited yodeling and singing. One story he told was of nearly losing his legs when a high cable snapped at the Warnick mill near his home. He was there against his mother’s orders, and his legs survived the ordeal primarily because at the time he was only five years old. Much of the homestead is now in the hands of the Whatcom Land Trust, a fitting memorial to a man who truly symbolizes the early days of logging on and around Mt. Baker. ¶ Jim Harris passed away peacefully on Sunday, June 21 at his home in Van Horn (just east of Concrete). He had long struggled with heart problems and his son and daughter, Dan and Val, were at his side. Marvin Leroy (aka “Jim”) Harris was born and raised upriver, proud to be part of Skagit Valley’s homesteading tradition. South Rockport would always be home to Jim, and the historic Tom Porter cabin in which he was raised now sits as his family’s donation in Howard Miller Steelhead Park. Jim always had a strong interest in the natural and cultural history of the
Snow and swap shows
s Jim Harris Upper Skagit and over time he became known as the local historian. His written, and tape recorded, interviews of such early Euro-American pioneers as Gaspar Petta and Glee Davis are irreplaceable treasures, and his deep love and respect for the Native American cultures is well known. After farming and logging in his youth, Jim went to college and then taught school for almost 10 years. Later, he worked for the U.S. Forest Service (Mt. Baker NF). North Cascades National Park was established in 1968 from forest lands on Jim’s birthday, October 2. Jim was hired as the first District Interpreter for the park, a position he held until his retirement in 1999. He discovered many significant places, including native sites hundreds or even thousands of years old and shared their history in his legendary programs, interpretive trails, booklets, brochures, and displays. His passing leaves a huge hole in the Upriver community, but the world is a better place because he was here. – Cindy Bjorklun Interpretive Specialist, North Cascades National Park
This year’s Komo Kulshan Ski Club Ski Swap will be held at Bloedel-Donovan Park, 2214 Electric Avenue in Bellingham, on Friday, October 23 from 4 – 9:30 p.m. and Saturday, October 24 from 9 a.m. -2 p.m.. It’s a chance to sell your old equipment and support the club’s efforts in training kids age 8 thru 18 for their racing team at a nominal price to the participants. The club offers a lot of bang for the buck to local kids who want to ski but may find the costs a bit of a stretch. It’s not only a good place to get good safe equipment but good advice on just what you might need as well. Coaches will be at the sale to help parents and young skiers make these choices. They’re as knowledgeable as one might find anywhere. Now led by head coach Tom Pulver, the club has seen some impressive athletes go through its ranks over the years, including Junior Olympian Allison Work, daughter of club president Steve Work. The club will sell your donations and keep just 20 percent of the sale price to support their work, a figure that’s deductible for you as the club is a recognized non-profit agency. They’d like to have as good a selection as possible but ask that it all be in reasonably good condition. “We don’t turn anything away but would rather have things that will sell,” said club secretary Katie Mundell. “Last
REAL ESTATE
year we had some skis that were so old someone bought them as wall ornaments.” Bring your used but useable clothing and equipment – something you’d still use, in other words – to the dropoff at Bloedel-Donovan Park on Thursday, October 22 from 4 pm to 9 pm. There will also be a drop-off at the Mt. Baker Film festival on the 22 at the Mt Baker Theatre in Bellingham. There’s also an early bird drop-off on October 10 from 10 a.m. -2 p.m. at the Mt. Baker Ski Area office, 1019 Iowa in Bellingham. That’s just east of I-5 near the State Street exit. The same weekend, the Vancouver Snow Show is being held at the Vancouver Convention Center on Saturday and Sunday, October 2425. Over 12,000 visitors attended last year and organizers expect even more people this year. Located at 999 Canada Place on the harbor, admission is $10 for adults, $8 for students and seniors, $25 for family pass. Children12 and under are free when accompanied by an adult. There is the Canadian Ski Patrol’s Extreme Ski and Board equipment swap on both days and it is reputed to be the largest in Western Canada with 13,000 square feet of selling space. Get there early to scope out the best deals. As well, there are plenty of exhibitors from equipment to resorts to pique your interest.
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Mount Baker Experience - Fall 2009
Map directory 1 BLUE MOUNTAIN GRILL 974 Hwy 9, Acme • 595-2200 2 ACME GENERAL STORE Hwy 9, Acme • 595-2146 3 EVERYBODY’S STORE Hwy 9, Van Zandt • 592-2297 4 DODSON’S IGA 3705 Mt. Baker Hwy, Nugent’s Corner • 592-5351 4 PRINCESS JADE 3813 Mt. Baker Hwy, Nugent’s Corner • 592-1317
5 KELLEY INSURANCE 103 W. Main St., Everson • 966-3732 619 Cherry St., Sumas • 988-2462 6 NORTH FORK BREWERY 6186 Mt. Baker Hwy, Deming • 599-2337 7 MISTY MOUNTAINS REALTY 8193 Kendall Rd., Maple Falls • 599-2659 8 MT. BAKER LODGING 7463 Mt. Baker Hwy, Maple Falls • 599-2463 9 HARVEST MOON BAKERY 7466 Mt. Baker Hwy, Maple Falls • 599-1347
10 MAPLE FUELS WASH-A-TON Corner of Mt. Baker Hwy & Silver Lake Rd. Maple Falls 599-2222 11 CROSS ROADS GROCERY & VIDEO 7802 Silver Lake Rd, Maple Falls 599-9657 12 INN AT MT. BAKER 8174 Mt. Baker Hwy, Glacier • 599-1776 or 877/567-5526 13 CANYON CREEK CHALETS 7474 Miller Way, Glacier • 599-9574 13 THE LOGS 7577 Canyon View Dr., Glacier • 599-2711 14 MT. BAKER HOMES & LAND 9937 Mt. Baker Hwy, Glacier 599-1900 or 599-1135
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15 HAIRSTREAM 9970 Mt. Baker Hwy, Glacier • 599-2043 16 MT. BAKER VIEW GUESTHOUSE 6920 Central Ave., Glacier • 599-2155 16 MT. BAKER SNOWBOARD SHOP 9996 Forest St., Glacier • 599-2008 17 MILANO’S RESTAURANT 9990 Mt. Baker Hwy, Glacier • 599-2863 18 GRAHAM’S STORE 9989 Mt. Baker Hwy, Glacier • 599-2665 18 GRAHAM’S RESTAURANT 9989 Mt. Baker Hwy, Glacier • 599-1964
map key 1 Business Location 37 Mile Post
Mt. Baker Highway mile posts Mile 1: Junction of I-5 and Mt. Baker Hwy., Sunset Drive. Mile 3: View of Coast Mountain Range in Canada (left). Mile 8: Whatcom County Parks & Recreation Dept. (Right). The headquarters offers a rest area with picnic tables, restrooms and a view of Mt. Baker, elevation 10,778 feet. 360/7332900. Mile 9: Deming Logging Show – second weekend in June. Two-day show: log rolling, tree climbing and axe throwing. Nooksack River Bridge – great fishing spots can be found. Mile 10: Community of Nugent's Corner. Groceries, gas, bank (ATM), bakery, cafe, crafts and other services. Mile 11: U-pick berry farms (right and left). Strawberries in June, raspberries in July and blueberries in August. Christmas tree farms (right and left). Mount Baker Vineyards (left). Tasting room/gift shop open Wednesday – Sunday. Grape Stomp Festival in September. Mile 12: Community of Deming. Stewart Mountain – elev. 3,087 feet (right). Sumas Mountain – elev. 3,430 feet (left). Mile 14: Highway 9 South Junction (right). South to Van Zandt, Acme, Wickersham and Skagit Valley. Attractions: B&B, general store, mushroom farm, and train ride. Nooksack River Forks (right). Nooksack River forks into three segments: the North Fork, which Mt. Baker Highway parallels; the Middle Fork, which heads southeast to the southern face of Mt. Baker; and the South Fork, which heads south into the Skagit Valley. Hwy. 9 follows the South Fork.
Mile 16: Mosquito Lake Road – Bald Eagle Viewing Spot (right). Dec. – Feb. Turn right onto Mosquito Lake Road, drive to the first bridge that crosses the North Fork Nooksack. Park on left shoulder of Mosquito Lake Road Look for eagles. Mile 18: Community of Welcome (left). Grocery store, fire station, senior center and other services. Mile 21: Kendall Creek Hatchery (right). Turn right onto Fish Hatchery Road. The hatchery raises chinook, coho and chum salmon as well as steelhead, rainbow and cutthroat trout. Mile 22: Slide Mountain – elevation 4,884 feet (right). Named for a landslide on its north face that may have dammed up the Nooksack River in ancient times. Highway 547 North Junction/Kendall Road (left). North to Kendall, peaceful Valley, Paradise Lakes, Columbia and Sumas. Gas, groceries, golf, tavern. Mile 23: Community of Kendall. Grocery store and gas (left). Mile 25: Community of Maple Falls, post office, pay phones, cabin rentals, lodging, restaurants, gas, groceries, liquor, library. Silver Lake Park, Silver Lake Road, 3.5 miles north (left). Park sits on 411 acres around Silver Lake. Mile 27: Farm stand (right). Fresh produce, gourmet foodstuffs. Mile 29: View of Nooksack River (right). Highway ascends a ledge overlooking the North Fork of the Nooksack River. Mile 30: Mt. Baker Scenic Turnout (right). Mile 33: Glacier – elev. 932 feet. Last community along the highway. Fire department, post office, library, general store, restaurants, snowboard shop, lodging, phones. Mile 34: Gallup Creek Picnic Area (right). Picnic tables and
trash cans; no restroom. Glacier Public Service Center (right). Open Memorial Day to October. Rangers assist with hikes and camp planning, and issues permits. Restrooms , picnic area. 360/599-2714, www.fs.fed.us/r6/mbs. Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest Boundary National Forest Scenic Byway. Glacier Creek Road (Rd. #39) to Mt. Baker Vista (right). Mostly paved, 9.5 mile road leads to Mt. Baker view. Mile 36: Douglas Fir Campground (left). National forest camp built by the CCC in the 1930s. Fees charged. Reservations accepted: 1-877-444-6777 or at www.recreation.gov. Horseshoe Bend Trail (right). Access for guided river rafting tours. Washington State Sno-Park (left). Permit required for snow mobiling or cross-country skiing. Mile 37: Church Mountain – elevation 6,245 feet (left). High elevation trails on the southern slope are often the first in the area to open for summer hiking. Turnouts to view North Fork Nooksack River (right). Mile 40: Excelsior Group Camp (right). National Forest Campground. No water. Fee charged. Reservations only:1-877-4446777 or at www.recreation.gov. Nooksack Falls, Wells Creek Road Road #33 (right). Take Wells Creek Road a half mile down to parking area and fenced viewpoint. Fall plummets 100 feet. Mile 41: Excelsior Pass Trail (left). Mile 43: North Fork Nooksack Research Natural Area (left). Established in 1937, this is a 1,400-acre preserve of old-growth
Douglas Fir, Hemlock and Western Red Cedar. Mile 44: Nooksack River Viewpoint (right). Mile 46: Twin Lakes Road (Road #3065) at Shuksan Highway Maintenance Sheds (left). Twin Lakes is not accessible until early to mid-August. Hannegan Pass Road (Road #32) (left). Popular cross-country skiing area in winter. Shuksan Picnic Area – Hannegan Pass Road (left). Tables, a restroom, Nooksack River views. Mining cabin nearby. Silver Fir Campground (right). Fees charged. Reservations accepted: 1-877-444-6777 or at www.recreation.gov. Mile 47: Goat Mountain – elevation 6,891 feet. (N.E.). Summer grazing range for one of four bands of mountain goats. Mile 49: View Mt. Shuksan – elevation 9,038 feet. (East). Mile 50: View Mt. Sefrit – elevation 6,015 feet. (Southeast). Mile 52: Mt. Baker Ski area White Salmon Day Lodge (left). Mile 53: Entrance to Heather Meadows. Mile 55: Picture Lake (road forks – stay to the right). Picture Lake – elevation 4,100 feet, provides a postcard view of Mt. Shuksan – elev. 9,038 feet. Vista picnic area (right). Picnic area; no restrooms. Mile 56: Austin Pass Picnic Area (right). CCC-built area sits in a bowl-shaped valley with glorious views. Heather Meadows Visitor Center (right). Open mid-July to September. Mile 58: Artist Point – elev. 5,140 feet. (End of highway). Parking lot surrounded by Mt. Baker’s peak (south), Mt. Shuksan (east) and Table Mountain – elev. 5,628 feet.
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Mount Baker Experience - Fall 2009
s The finish line for Ride 542. More photos at: www.mountbakerexperience.com
Photo by Jack Kintner
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