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FIVE DAYS IN LONDON FOR THE SUBWAY WARRIOR PLUS
BEFORE YOU GO
LEISURE TA K E L I F E EA SY
London
Spring 2014
CONTENTS food
3
eating 6
Editor’s Note
5
packing
don’t forget 7 9 staying 11 explore
This season we take an in-depth look at London, the epitome of a cosmopolitan world. London often reminds us of bustling city streets, crowded subways, diversity in all respects, as well as a vibrant nightlife. We’ve heard of the colloquial expression “road warrior”, but for many travelling in London, public transportation is the best bet. Often for these people, the objective of travel is to see everything. So here are a collection of places to go (and not to go!) when in London, for the restless “subway warrior”.
PHILLIP MENG, Editor-in-Chief
DID YOU KNOW…
…that when maintenance was done on the Houses of Parliament in the 1920s, tennis balls dating back centuries were found.
FIVE DAYS IN LONDON
DAY TWO DAY ONE
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15 DAY FOUR
DAY THREE
23 21 DAY FIVE
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FOOD IN LONDON Some travelers travel luxuriously. They enjoy large meals every day at the finest restaurants, and their choice of accommodations are nothing short of blissful luxury. But for the subway warrior, whose only intent is to explore, perhaps lunches and breakfasts can be dealt with differently. We’ve heard of the horrors of British cuisine, but it wouldn’t be bad if we ate at rotisseries and deli counters, would it? Plus it wouldn’t leave a gash in the bank – which could be used for other things. So…enter ASDA.
If you can grab the opportunity, arrive at ASDA at around 20:30 to 21:00 as the Rotisserie closes. During this time, heavily discounted cooked ready-to-eat bacon joints and roasted chickens among other items are available. A wide variety of fruits and pastries, along with these foods, can be consumed while you are travelling the next day. Breakfast, lunch, and even dinner can all be prepared with ASDA. It proves that you can enjoy the joie de vivre of travelling without a fortune.
Bread and pastries are particularly desirable for famished tourists.
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LONDON TIPS FOR THE SUBWAY WARRIOR
FOOD IN LONDON If you don’t wish to take the supermarket approach for travelling in London, we also recommend a few hand-picked favorites of ours.
SPLURGE Travelling luxuriously
Waterside Inn, Maidenhead
RELAX Convenient places to eat
V&A Cafe, Knightsbridge Serpentine Kitchen, Hyde Park
POPULAR Solid and inexpensive
Four Seasons, Chinatown Cookbook Cafe, Mayfair
HK Cafe, Chinatown Amaya, Mayfair
LONDON TIPS FOR THE SUBWAY WARRIOR
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EATING IN LONDON WHEN IN LONDON, DO AS THE TOURISTS DO.
In London, several open courtyards exist where you can sit down, rest, and enjoy the meal you brought. Here are a few well-located ones in tourist destinations. They have cafes, so you can order something from their menu whilst eating what you brought. SOMERSET HOUSE While not a sanctuary of peace, it provides chairs and tables to rest, in a closed courtyard surrounded by the important Strand area. V&A CAFE Surrounded by the beautiful Victoria & Albert Museum, you can enjoy a meal in one of two settings, a modernist white dining hall or a Victorian Gothic Classical CafĂŠ.
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LONDON TIPS FOR THE SUBWAY WARRIOR
PACKING FOR LONDON London is famous for it’s wet, windy weather, but remember, to look like a local, wear clothes in secondary colors (i.e. orange, green), a patterned textile, or a gray waistcoat. Unlike Parisians, the clothing choice of Londoners tend to be more colorful, and instead of the gray and black suits common along the Métropolitain, wear colorful clothes, and if needed, a raincoat.
“…Londoners tend to be more colorful… ” The UK Met Office states that London gets around seventy centimeters of rain every year, and so don’t risk sudden changes in weather forecasting. Despite the rainy weather however, London is not typically very cold except during the main winter months, so thick clothing may not be a necessity.
LONDON TIPS FOR THE SUBWAY WARRIOR
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THINGS TO KNOW IN LONDON The British Library’s main exhibits, such as the Magna Carta, close at 18:00. Remember to arrive before this time to see the Magna Carta and Guggenheim Bible, which are conveniently located in the same room.
If you eat in Chinatown or will eat at smaller establishments, bring some paper currency. To play it safe, about 120GBP should be enough.
If you’re ever extremely hungry, you can buy honey-roasted peanuts from vendors, located at every bridge. It’s not how we usually think of London, but that could be Plan B!
If you arrive early in the morning, try to drop your luggage of at your hotel or schedule early check-in. Of course, this goes for all cities.
Most of London’s museums are free!
Yes, you read that right. As part of an initiative by the City of London, most major museums, such as the British Museum, National Gallery, and Museum of London do not charge admission (though they may suggest a fee).
London’s museums sometimes pale compared to other cities.
You may find that the museums of London do not compare favorably to that of other European cities such as Paris or Rome.
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LONDON TIPS FOR THE SUBWAY WARRIOR
THINGS TO KNOW IN LONDON
This is the seal of the City of London.
The actual city is actually only ~1 square mile bordering the Thames, surrounded by Metropolitan London.
LONDON TIPS FOR THE SUBWAY WARRIOR
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STAYING IN LONDON
SPLURGE
Our pick for London is the InterContinental London Park Lane, a perfectly located hotel ornately decorated with crystals and exotic flowers. Rooms are rather small, so try to pick higher-floor rooms, which have have sweeping views of Hyde Park and Green Park, the two adjacent Royal Parks. If you can, choose Hyde Park or Wellington Arch view. The Subway Warrior should take advantage of free Barclays Cycle Hire Keys from the Concierge Desk.
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HONORABLE MENTIONS Mandarin Oriental, Hyde Park The façade reveals that the hotel is not quite ordinary; enjoy features such as a large lap pool in this hotel bordering Hyde Park.
Corinthia, Embankment This newly restored hotel south of Hyde Park shows tasteful décor and a considerably convenient location.
LONDON TIPS FOR THE SUBWAY WARRIOR
STAYING IN LONDON
KEEP THE BANK It’s difficult to pick favorites for budget-conscious hotels because they tend to be more or less the same. But the following hotels are a steal if they are less than 100GBP/night or you can use Loyalty Programs points.
Holiday Inn Wembley (pictured)
Holiday Inn Express Chingford
In general, London’s lodging tends to be less expensive and more plentiful than other major European tourist cities, and keep in mind that if you are willing to afford it, hotels in Kensington and Chelsea, Knightsbridge, Mayfair, Embankment, and Piccadilly are far more convenient locations. More affordable but convenient nonetheless locations include Croydon and Wembley/Maida Vale.
Note – while most hotels in the Heathrow and Gatwick regions are relatively inexpensive, the location is very inaccessible and should be avoided.
LONDON TIPS FOR THE SUBWAY WARRIOR
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WHAT TO DO IN LONDON
You’ve probably already figured that one of London’s foremost and important attractions is it’s museums, though (spoiler alert) they pale compared to the galleries of Paris. But there are several that you need to see, as well as several areas/regions that will be covered in “Five Days in London”, page 13.
Tip
Tip
MUSEUMS
PLACES
V&A
Fortnum and Mason’s
Arguably the world’s most foremost collection of decorative arts.
The spirit of upper-class London embodied in a beautiful department store.
Go out into the courtyard to rest during your visit.
Buy something savory from the food hall.
Museum of London
Maritime Greenwich
Best place to find out about the city you are visiting.
Details Britain’s past as a formidable sea power.
Don’t miss the tour of 1920s London and viewing the Lord Mayor’s Carriage.
Prince Frederick’s Barge is worth looking at, in the Maritime Museum.
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Tip
Tip
LONDON TIPS FOR THE SUBWAY WARRIOR
WHAT NOT TO DO IN LONDON
More places to see than to not; here is a continuation of “What to Do in London”.
With such a wealth of activities throughout London, these places should be avoided when there isn’t a lot of time.
PLACES
AVOID
Strand Region
Lincoln’s Inn Fields
Bearing cultural significance, don’t forget the Royal Courts of Justice.
A small patch of green amidst London’s Strand region, the Fields are mostly for locals. The museums near the fields are rather underwhelming.
Tip
Watch court in session or tour one of the rooms.
Westminster
Tip
This one’s a bit obvious; Westminster is the political heartland of Britain. If you are a UK Resident/Citizen, you can arrange a private tour through your MP.
LONDON TIPS FOR THE SUBWAY WARRIOR
Tip
Maritime Greenwich Details Britain’s past as a formidable sea power. Prince Frederick’s Barge is worth looking at, in the Maritime Museum.
Tip
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LONDON EXAMINING EUROPE’S PRIMIERE EXAMPLE OF SPLENDOUR AND ROYALTY IN FIVE DAYS. PHILLIP MENG | PHOTOGRAPHY BY LU MENG
DAY ONE Your precise schedule depends on the time you arrive, but for the purposes of this guide, day one will represent the first full day of your trip, and so forth. If you happen to have an extra afternoon, we recommend that you enjoy afternoon tea. Whether you arrive from Heathrow or Gatwick, spend your first full day in the Hyde Park/Mayfair region. Your archetypical day will start at around 10:00 in the morning and end at about 5:00 in the evening. Assuming that you don’t arrive on Sunday (for which you would have to change this itinerary), begin by strolling down Piccadilly, perhaps London’s most famed shopping extravaganza. Rows of stores lead to the grand gem of shopping experiences, the quintessentially English Fortnum and Mason’s.
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Whether it be the numerous floors of shopping, the ornate tea salon, or the scrumptious food halls, Fortnum’s evokes a type of comfort in contrast to hip and trendy London. It’s easy to get lost amidst the wonders of this classic department store. With round staircases leading to floor after floor of merchandise, Fortnum’s floors all have shining crystal chandeliers, with ornate wooden tables of suitcases, clothing, and plenty of luxury goods. Far more upscale than its competitor Harrods, Fortnum’s is the royal purveyor of food and wine. Thus, the vast food halls are a must-see. Famous for their hampers and boxes of foie gras and deep-fried bacon delicacies, the department store is paradise for gastronomes, comforted by the fact that Fortnum’s feeds the royal family. With prices up to twenty-five thousand pounds for a hamper, it is no surprise that it is only frequented by the wealthiest of shoppers. Leave Fortnum and Masons by the Vermillion-carpeted wooden staircase and the giant nutcrackers back to Piccadilly. ACCOMODATION SUGGESTION
InterContinental London Park Lane (Contemporary Luxury) FIVE DAYS: LONDON
For lunch, grab a meal in Mayfair’s cornucopia of restaurants. If you’re a shopping enthusiast, go on south to see Christie’s Auction House, a hallmark of the wealthy, before heading off to Hyde Park. If you followed our Accommodation Suggestion, then you can rent a bicycle from the Barclay’s Cycle Hire, and enjoy Hyde Park quickly and easily. Hyde Park is full of fountains, botanic gardens, and trees. Like Central Park, it is a huge patch of green in the middle of the city, but unlike New York, the surrounding buildings are historic buildings with Victorian Architecture. Showcasing the styles of the empire that the sun never set upon, the buildings, lavishly decorated with fanciful colors, bring another dimension into the park. In the center of Hyde Park was the Serpentine, a wide manmade river, filled with swans and waterfowl, with a lively café and an array of lounge chairs. It drew comparisons to the Tuileries Gardens of Paris, except with more people, and not nearly as symmetrical and organized.
FIVE DAYS: LONDON
Hyde Park defines London – an unorganized, crowded area, with all sorts of hidden gems in each corner. Passing by more gardens and more patches of roses, violets, and tulips, we reached the Speaker’s Corner, a corner famous for its past as a creative forum for inventive thinkers. Now filled with street musicians and people giving out flyers, the old traditions of the corner are no longer extant. If you continue west on your bike, you’ll see Kensington Gardens, which is not exactly a separate park, but rather is connected to Hyde Park. Don’t miss the Kensington Palace, lavishly surrounded by a beautiful, landscaped garden. Art lovers can enjoy the Serpentine Gallery to the north. After this afternoon tour, return to Mayfair, and walk past Selfridge’s, Zara, and plenty more through the notable shopping districts of Bond and Oxford Street. Continue on and turn right into Grosvenor Square Park,
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full of statues of well-known American and British political figures, bordered by the huge United States Embassy, London. After this afternoon tour, return to Mayfair, and walk past Selfridge’s, Zara, and plenty more through the notable shopping districts of Bond and Oxford Street. Continue on and turn right into Grosvenor Square Park, full of statues of well-known American and British political figures, bordered by the huge United States Embassy, London.
The first day will be rather simple, and so we’ll end the day on this note; this leaves you time for a generous dinner. If you are not conscious about your budget, try Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester for a refined dining experience.
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FIVE DAYS: LONDON
DAY TWO Day Two will be mainly in the Knightsbridge/Westminster region.
Many may grimace at the idea of standing with giant crowds, trying to look at a line of beaver-capped soldiers inside a gated palace, but for first-timers, seeing the Changing of the Guard is important. If the weather is sunny, arrive at around eleven in the morning to watch this centuries-old tradition. Tromp through Green Park to become part of the huge crowd that amasses. Countless tourists, all equipped with cameras and phones, surround middle island and Buckingham Palace like bees around a beehive. The palace showcases the splendor of the Victorian period with its white, columned façade. FIVE DAYS: LONDON
A tribute to Victoria, with four statues of her during her reign on that middle island, surrounded by fountains. If you are like the avid watcher, when you here the bugle calls of the guard, you will begin walking towards the gates of the palace. Those who watch the Changing of the Guard must have plenty of patience, for the episode has plenty of muffled shouts and a long “outdoor concert”. But keep in mind, that when the police beckon the crowd to step away from the gate, it means that you are soon free to continue your tour. Due to the proximity of Buckingham Palace, begin by walking through pleasant St. James’s Park past Clarence House and St. James’s Palace.
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Pelicans, swans, and urban creatures grace the elaborately squared plains of flowers across the giant pleasure garden. Walk through the large grassy park, filled with people lying on the soft grass. Don’t miss seeing the Pelican Island, as well as small playgrounds amidst the long, uneven and naturally landscaped lake. It was an endless cacophony of walking paths to revel in. Walking onto Whitehall and Birdcage Walks, the most political walk in the world, discover the backstage world of Westminster. The Horse Guards Parade also lets you see the famed British guards, now on cavalry. For history buffs, the Imperial War Cabinets offer an intriguing look onto London’s wartime past. Enter Westminster. The things to do here are endless. The gothic Westminster Abbey has a sense of magnitude that cannot be missed. But perhaps the most important place to tour is the Palaces of Westminster. Filled with tidbits of England’s often tumultuous history, it’s a must-see. Try to arrange a tour through your MP (UK Citizens) or through the website of Parliament.
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Take the subway over to Knightsbridge, where you will explore the Victoria and Albert Museum, commonly referred to as the V&A, one of the foremost museums in decorative arts. After entering the Victorian Gothic building, a huge, colorful chandelier of balls welcomes its visitors. The Egyptian Decorative Arts section, with its sphinxes, murals, and etchings are not to be looked over. Roman artifacts, European murals; some depicting hunts, others depicting battles, brought to life the existence of centuries-ago aristocracy. Each small room has its own theme, with one containing all sorts of building models, another filled gold treasures from Gaul, and so on. Leaving the V&A, be sure to enjoy the scenery, including tulips, violets, and other plants surrounded by patches of green through the campus of the Imperial College London. Passing a white marble monument to King Consort Albert, you’ll find the Coliseum-shaped Royal Albert Hall.
FIVE DAYS: LONDON
With sixteen entrances equally spaced throughout the round building, walk around the hall, which was originally envisioned as a great central hall for the arts by Victoria’s consort Prince Albert. When Prince Albert died rather prematurely, Victoria took it upon herself for this task, naming it after her beloved husband; thus, next to the hall, the tall Prince Albert Memorial in Hyde Park is easily visible. Throughout the walk, notice the embassies and multiple buildings built in British Regency Architecture. This, and the color white, is characteristic of the time period. Before the sun comes down, head to the iconic department store Harrods. While not the most prestigious or luxurious of stores, it still exhibits an upscale spirit. True to the heartbeat of London, it displays contrasts, whether it be huge clothing sections with white roofs, intricately decorated, or the giant food hall that seems to disagree with its surroundings. Either way, Harrods represents the aspiration and pursuit of the British Middle Class. For dinner, choose from the hip restaurants in Belgravia. We recommend Amaya. FIVE DAYS: LONDON
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DAY THREE Be prepared for a somewhat exhausting day. Day Three will begin in Regent’s Park. At noon, you will come to the Banks of the Thames, and thus you will walk along the portion of the Thames located in Westminster. Begin your day in northwestern London, the location of one of the largest Royal Parks, Regents Park. Surrounding the park are elegant estates, with the popularly used EIIR (Elizabeth II Regina) symbol on the premises. Captivatingly elegant, enter Regent’s Park. Upon crossing the first bridge, the urbanized streets of London disappear, and shades of pink, light blue, and draping yellow flowers fill three-hundred-sixty degrees of one’s sight, a tranquil oasis escape from the city. Regents Park is situated around three rings.
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Within the first ring observe the ducks, swans, and swallows all throughout the ponds and small creeks. Two bridges will take you to the second ring, where we suggest that you make use of the Barclay’s Cycle Hire, which will allow your trip to be much expedited. Throughout Regent’s Park, you can enjoy fountains, bridges, and welllandscaped gardens of tulips and many varieties of colorful plants. The third ring takes you to Queen Mary’s Gardens, which as the name suggests, has been built very regally, with a wide promenade. The gardens are symmetrical, and a huge fountain marks the end of the promenade – it is truly royal in nature.
ACCOMODATION SUGGESTION
Threadneedles London or Crowne Plaza London-City FIVE DAYS: LONDON
Practically on Regents Park’s doorstep is the world-renowned Madame Tussaud’s Wax Museum and the Sherlock Holmes Museum. You can pick one or both to explore, before heading off to the Victoria Embankment Gardens around noon. It is a simple garden, with fountains, some ducks, as well as squares of flowers, each with its own color. A viewing platform juts into the Thames, and provided a view of London’s ships and river cruises, while a huge statue of a Lion symbolizes the former power of the Monarchy. Not to be outdone by Paris’s Place Vendome, a small obelisk was also present to the left of the lion. Walk across the adjacent Waterloo Bridge to the South Bank of the Thames. While you are on the white, modernist bridge, savor the views of Parliament from the other side of the river. Walk along the South Bank, with the Royal Festivities Hall, Oxo Tower, and if you are hungry, choose from the countless restaurants along the South Bank, whether they be fishand-chip locations or upscale, formal dining.
FIVE DAYS: LONDON
Modernist art-lovers may enjoy the Tate Modern museum, a converted turbine hall with numerous pieces of abstract artwork throughout its halls. When you cross Millennium Bridge from Tate Modern, you will find St. Paul’s Cathedral. The Cathedral Church of St. Paul the Apostle became particularly well-known due to the “St. Paul’s Survives” photograph during the London Blitz. We recommend that you spend some time in Paternoster Square. You’ll also find the London Stock Exchange here. Sadly it is closed to the public. North of St. Paul’s is the Museum of London. It is the best place to get acquainted with the city you are in. Highlights include a tour of “1920s London”, and seeing the Lord Mayor’s Carriage. Learn more about the fascinating history of London, the Great Fire, and see pieces of the thin London Wall. Next, head to the Guildhall for a tour of the City of London’s political center in the beautiful gothic hall. Finish your day in the Tower of London, a medieval fortress that is the epitome of medieval design. If you’d like, walk across Tower Bridge to conclude your day.
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DAY FOUR Day Four begins in the Strand Region. You will walk north until you reach the British Library and St. Pancras Station. Begin by touring the Strand District, starting with the famed Savoy Hotel, founded by Cesar Ritz himself. Continuing on, you will find the Queen’s Chapel, in the middle of the road; King’s College London, with a handful of Nobel laureates; and the London School of Economics. You may find a trail of tourists as you walk next to the large Australia House and India House, now embassies, but named as “houses” due to their status as former colonies. Businesses are also located here, including the Random House Publishing Company.
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The most unique attraction on Strand, though, is the Royal Courts of Justice. With the building similar to a cross between a church and a Victorian Manor, the grey-roofed building is often surrounded by the media. Inside lies a huge hall, simply named “The Great Hall”, decorated with extreme precision and attentiveness to detail. Shaped like a guildhall, in the center sits a list of the day’s court activities. If you are lucky, you may find an empty room, and you can see for yourself the massive amount of books (English law is based on the president) and the seemingly odd layout of the courtroom. The scale of the building is truly awesome. Enjoy lunch at the nearby Somerset House. If you look to relax afterwards, do as the locals do in the Lincolns’ Inn Fields. Following this, head to Trafalgar Square to view one of the world’s most famous columns. Nelson’s Column, numerous fountains, and the new statue of a giant, blue rooster. ACCOMODATION SUGGESTION
Renaissance St. Pancras (Upscale Boutique) FIVE DAYS: LONDON
Facing Trafalgar Square is the National Galleries, a collection of the works of English court painters and other well-known painters. Pay attention to Monet’s famed paintings of Westminster at dawn, as well as “The Execution of Lady Jane Grey” by a French painter known for painting portraits of English nobles’ demises. Continue to the British Museum, usually regarded as one of the finest museums in the world. You will find that plenty of halls are filled up with Egyptian columns and bassai pottery, as well as European arts. Pass the Round Reading Room to see the museum’s most treasured items, including the Lewis Chessmen, an ivory chess set, the Rosetta Stone, Assyrian Lion Hunt, Hoa Hakananai’a, or the statues on Easter Island, and the Royal Game of Ur. The latter resembles checkers but with the colors green and red. From Giza, five-legged horses guarding the Mausoleum of Halikarnassos can be seen in the Egyptian section. Savor the treasures of this beautiful gallery.
FIVE DAYS: LONDON
Continue on to the British Library. Luckily for tourists, the Library’s most popular attractions are all concentrated within one room, including the Magna Carta, Gutenburg Bible, and many other recognizable documents and books. If history is not your forte, you can still relax in the many unique chairs of the library. Next door sits the St. Pancras station, a giant Victorian railway terminus whose spires and red-brick façade is definitely worth a visit. Our accommodation suggestion, the Renaissance St. Pancras, is actually located within the restored station, and you can enjoy the splendor of the Victorian period inside your room.
For many travelers, this would be the end of the day, but for Beatles fans, pay a visit to EMI Records and Abbey Road in the northwest of the city. This day leaves plenty of time for dinner. You may have to travel into Mayfair to eat, but your excess of time should allow you to find a good restaurant of your choice. L’Altelier de Joël Robunchon is a favorite.
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DAY FIVE The prior four days have been difficult, so day five leaves plenty of freedom and time for the traveler. Begin by taking a train to Greenwich. Passing the archetypical, small, quaint British town, enter Maritime Greenwich, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that explores Britain’s past as the world’s most formidable naval power. There you can find the Maritime Museum, which brings its visitors into the history of British trade and presents its visitors with a handful of model ships. Continuing on, go through the Queen’s House, an empty white Regency-architecture house, to the Royal Courts.
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With four courts named after four important monarchs, each with an ornately decorated square – all with engravings on the walls, the Royal Courts bring you to the Royal Naval College, three domed buildings in a classically built fashion. Finally, climb up a grassy green hill to the Royal Observatory, a small dome that happens to be the location of the Prime Meridian. A laser, as well as a metal strip, marks this infamous imaginary line. To get back into London, take the one-hour river cruise back into Westminster. During this trip you will see the full extent of London’s section of the Thames, in particular, the Canary Wharf Development Area, HMS Belfast, HMS President, HMS Chrysanthemum, and you will get one more glance at London’s riverside attractions. For the afternoon, travel to a location that you wish you spent more time on, or to a new place you find interesting, such as the Tate Britain gallery. But the Greenwich tour is the final attraction, for the optimal date of departure is the evening of Day 5. Congratulations for following this path, Subway Warrior. Bon voyage. FIVE DAYS: LONDON