1/ SamuelJing, 2012
DESN1658 FASHION BRAND ANALYSIS
word count: 2,956
CHARLEE GRIMSON DAISY TUCKER EMILY WINDOWS KIERAN MJ LEIGHTON PHOEBE HOLDEN
2/ WikiMedia Commons, 2017
201158362 201073406 201096575 201161007 201147412
CONTENTS INTRODUCTION a brief summary of what to expect from this project document. BRAND IDENTITY what is zara? HISTORY where have they been to be where they are today? MANAGEMENT who’s running the show PRODUCT closer inspection of the product. AD / PROMOTION / MARKETING what do they show their audience? BRAND VALUES who are they as a brand? PRIMARY RESEARCH some questions. ISSUES / PROBLEM what they’ve not done so great. RESOLUTION how they fixed their problems. CONCLUSION a brief overview of the project document. REFERENCES where is everything from?
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2/ Zara, 2018
INTRODUCTION Branding is essential to a business’ success, allowing them to market themselves effectively and communicate to the world what makes them unique. The fashion industry today is very complex, and in order to maintain or build a strong reputation companies must create a strong brand image and identity. In this report we have analyzed the fashion brand Zara, and how they overcame a problem with Greenpeace regarding hazardous and cancerous chemicals in their clothing.
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3/ Zara, 2018
4/ SamuelJing, 2012
BRAND IDENTITY
Zara is a trendy fast fashion brand who thrive on replicating trends that are seen on catwalks quickly, bringing them to the high street at an affordable price. “Zara has become the leader in rapid development of fast changing fashions” (Loeb, 2015). They are a pioneering high street brand who have been able to recreate trends and styles found in luxury brands at a lower price. “Zara has a unique design model, carefully calibrated to be responsive to what the customer is buying in store” (Cartner- Morley, 2013). As well as them identifying as a fast fashion brand, another main focus of the fashion company is the sustainability of their products and their operations. They state on their website that their “products meet the most stringent health, safety and environmental sustainability standards” (zara.com, 2018). As a brand, Zara pride themselves on their awareness of the importance of sustainability on the fashion industry and the environmental issues we face today. Their focus on sustainability sand fast fashion trends are addressed on their website, communicating their brand values to the consumer to solidify their identity. Their brand logo is a simplistic design of black and white, creating a contemporary and professional persona for the brand. Their style is modern and on trend brand, who are globally recognized for their frequent new designs, sustainable operations and their ability to imitate luxury brands and their styles.
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HISTORY “Zara’s story begins with the opening of the first store in the Spanish coastal city of A Coruña in 1975” (Inditex.com, 2018). The founder of Zara was Amancio Ortega and the brand is part of the Inditex group, “one of the world’s largest fashion retailers, with eight distinct brands” (Inditex, 2018). Zara slowly expanded across Spain and then eventually moved into Portugal (successstory.com, 2018). At the start of the 1990s, they were operating in the US and most of Europe. In 2001, Zara launched their online store which again started in Spain and then expanded into Europe and the US in 2011. Zara is now a fully global and digital brand with 2266 stores worldwide, operating in 96 markets and 46 online markets. After establishing themselves as a fashion brand, creating collections for men, women and children, in 2003, Zara Home was created (Inditex.com, 2018). Throughout their growth and expansion, “Zara has remained faithful to its core values, expressed simply in the same four key words that define all our stores: beauty, clarity, functionality and sustainability” (Inditex.com, 2018).
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PRICE 6/ SamuelJing, 2012
Zara’s target market is young, fashion conscious women so therefore aims to keep their products affordable but at good quality in order to maximise sales for their price sensitive consumers. Their customer value-based pricing strategy fills the gap of a large consumer segment, latest fashion trends at a affordable price is highly popular amongst the millennials. This pricing strategy helped shape Zara into the unique brand that it is. (Pratap, 2017) A study was done by the research firm, Alphawise, to analyse the companies pricing strategy across 88 countries. A survey was conducted comparing 7000 products, according to the results Zara’s clothing was priced 50% higher than Spain in Mexico and Britain, 92% higher in the USA and 78% higher in China. This shows the pricing strategy is country specific and is tailored to the characteristics of each market and what the consumers are willing to pay. (Ceballos, 2015) Zara can afford to stay on a low pricing strategy as it doesn’t spend much on advertisements, labour or fabric increasing the profit margin they receive on each item. In terms of promotion, Zara has low level discounting around all year, except from the section of ‘Special prices’ (Pantazi, 2017) on their online website, and seasonal discount sales of 50% or more. (Mbaskool, 2018) Twitter, N/A
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PLACE Figure 1- Kachi, 2016. Zara’s Brand Perceptual Map.
Zara began its journey as a small Spanish store in 1975, now it has more than 2000 stores globally over 96 different markets not including Zara home (Forbes, 2017). As part of the Index group Zara aims to provide affordable trendy products to young consumers in the “right place and at the right moment” (Inditex, 2018). On the brand perceptual map (Figure 1), this places Zara in the middle for price, just above H&M and Mango but below brands like AX Paris and Massimo Dutti. It is also closer to the haute couture/fashionable side in a similar position to Massimo Dutti and Marc Jacobs. This is due to instantly reacting to the latest trends but providing them for an affordable price, often creating copies of luxury items such as Balenciaga trainers (Inditex, 2018). Zara is positioned in the high street market sector and is often found located in nice, spacious areas close to other stores of similar market level such as Topshop or urban outfitters, this encourages browsing through all high street stores by the same target market. The stores are all designed by Zara’s decoration team and have a modern look with walled mirrors and excellent lighting to create Zara’s own shopping experience. (Mbaskool, 2018) Zara additionally sells through its online store, over 46 online markets, boosting sales dramatically for Zara and Inditex in 2017 having a negative impact on the sales of one of its competitors, H&M (Dowsett and Ringstrom, 2017). Dowsett and Ringstrom (2017) explain the online growth of Inditex, Zara in particular, has caused H&M sales for fall for the first time in 4 years.
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PRODUCT Zara sets itself apart from other brands with its impressive turnaround and fast reactions to the latest trends. In a report by Lopez and Fan (2009) it stated that within 4 weeks the brand can design, manufacture and market a new product as of 2005 and the brand has come on leaps and bounds since then. Following on from this around 11,000 new garments and accessories are launched every year, a clear member of the fast fashion group. The brand often gains a lot of media attention for its skill at producing like products to what’s being seen at the time on run ways and from high end retailers. Making more exclusive fashion accessible on the high street. For example, not long ago they released trainers that resembled the Balenciaga Speed and Triple S trainers that have blown up recently. They cater for women, men and children; also offering a range named Trafaluc which is more on trend and bold. In addition, a collection called ‘Join Life’ focuses on sustainability by using raw materials to help protect biodiversity and reduce the impacts on the environment. They use economically grown and organic cotton alongside recycled fabrics (Zara, 2018). The products can be identified having a ‘Join Life’ label attached for conscious shoppers. The brand used the brand extension strategy, using Ansoffs matrix of brand expansion Zara used its brand identity to be able to launch Zara Home, a homeware partner brand. Therefore, expanding the range of products available and broadening the brands market and value (Waters, 2018).
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8/ Zara, 2018
AD / PROMOTION / MARKETING / Promotion is an element of branding, Zara is a very low-key brand in the world of paid advertisement, one of their business strategies is that they put very little money into advertisement; like TV ads. Instead they invest into opening new stores in different locations and working on their products and garments. As mentioned before, the stores are a main part of Zara’s promotion; the use of window displays, store lay out and the prime locations near other popular stores are how they advertise themselves (Lopez, Fan, 2009). Zara also rely on the use of social media and word of mouth. The brand is active on many social medias, for example, on Twitter with 1.3 million followers (2018), Facebook with 26 million followers (2018) and Instagram with 25.3 million (2018), all linked on the brands webpage along with Pinterest and YouTube links. Alongside this the growth of blogging has had a huge impact of the popularity of the brand as a form of public relations. The brand is often featured on YouTube channels and in blog posts with creators talking about their recent purchases and how they would style them. Bloggers aim to form raw and honest relationships with their followers, so they trust their opinions and it encourages them to shop at the suggested brands. These modern methods of marketing are a great tool for Zara as a brand as it helps promote the brand at low cost for expose
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THE BRAND ONION The brand onion model can be used to map brand identity and define it. A brand is made up of layers, just like an onion. It shows an overview of the brand and strategies, when finished “it can be used as a guide to ensure that all aspects of the business reflect the brand values (Posner, 2015. p158).
ESSENCE – the essence of Zara is “bringing attractive and responsible fashion, and improving the quality of customer service” (Inditex 2018) – Zara value their world-wide domination within fashion and ability to reach out to everyone, with affordable clothing and accessories
BRAND VALUES
BRAND PERSONALITY – Zara is a stylish brand who are conscious to ensure sustainability within the world of fashion. They’re confident and innovative. – the brand shows its authenticity through its ‘Join Life’ campaign, making a stand for supporting the environment. Also, its fast reactions to the latest trends.
BRAND IN ACTION
10/ Zara, 2018
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11/ Zara, 2018
Zara like many other high fashion brand companies, to an everyday consumer, looks like a perfect brand doing everything by the book but Zara, like these other brands, also has had some major problems in the past that they have needed to find the solution to in order to repair and improve both their brand identity and reputation. The most publicised problem Zara have had to date was something GreenPeace had uncovered on the 20th November, 2012, in which GreenPeace representatives has found that, “High street fashion brands are selling clothing contaminated with hazardous chemicals that break down to form hormone-disrupting or even cancer-causing chemicals when released into the environment” (GreenPeace. 20/11/12) Zara being one of the high fashion brands known to have pieces of their clothing contaminated with these chemicals. “A total of 141 items of clothing were purchased in April 2012 in 29 countries and regions worldwide from authorised retailers” (GreenPeace. 20/11/12) This was something GreenPeace had released in their report ‘Toxic Threads: The Big Fashion Stitch Up’, all of which went into detail about the harmful chemicals Zara had been using in their products / clothing caused by azo dyes and NPE’s (Nonylphenol Ethoxylates) used in the clothing tested by GreenPeace, NPE’s causing things like cancer and birth defects (United Labs. N/A). After the release of GreenPeaces report about Zara, there had been nine days pass in which Zara had received thousands upon thousands of tweets and messages on all platforms about their use of harmful chemicals. It had taken nine days for Zara to publically respond to GreenPeace about their use of chemicals, in which Zara had made an agreement with GreenPeace that they would not only reduce and stop using harmful chemicals in their clothing but that they would also be more transparent meaning that the public would be able to see just what they are buying. Zara in their agreement with GreenPeace “agreed to eliminate all discharge of hazardous chemicals from its supply chain and products by 2020” (TriplePundit. 04/12/12) This is one amazing advancement in the fashion industry with Zara being one of the biggest retailers committing to Detox, with many more to follow in their steps. For any fashion brand, it is highly important to be completely transparent about their dealings, as well as how they made their products and what goes into them, which is only possible if the brand fully knows and trusts in their supply chain, otherwise the brand risks a huge decrease in customers and damage to their brand reputation and trust-ability. After all a product is only able to get a brand so far with a lot of consumers now going with brands they have a connection to due to the way the brand comes across to the consumer. Zara had seen a huge amount of people signing up to GreenPeace and protesting outside of their stores in order to get Zara to Detox, which without a doubt had affected their brand to consumer relationship as a lot of people didn’t want to buy from Zara again after this, showing just how important it is for a brand to stay completely honest with their customers. “The company can apparently design, produce, and deliver a new garment and have it in its stores in just 15 days. We want to see them use their speed to respond to the urgency of the pollution and clean up the fashion industry for good” (Racked. 03/12/12) even this statement proves just how a brand may not be able to recover from a problem this big as even with Zara’s efforts to fix their problem a lot of people are still unsure about the brands full disclosure of their products.
ISSUES / PROBLEMS Twitter, N/A
In order to escape the negative publicity Greenpeace had inflicted through exposing their chemical use, Zara announced its commitment to join the Detox campaign within a mere 9 days after the initial report. Over the course of these nine days, Greenpeace published numerous articles, the gist of which was that Zara were taking too long to respond and calling upon the public to join their campaign against the brand. Crawford for Greenpeace (2012) did mention that Zara had confirmed within this time that they wanted “to take the necessary actions to reach, in the shortest time possible, the common goal of Zero Discharge” yet hadn’t actually acted upon this. (Crawford, 2011). On the 29th November 2012, Zara made a promise to eliminate all hazardous chemicals by 2020, receiving lots of praise from Greenpeace and over 43,800 mentions on twitter (Greenpeace, 2012). Now, they are one of the leaders of the Detox movement and actively working towards a more sustainable future. Zara are working towards this future in many ways and say that “[their] products meet the most stringent health, safety and environmental sustainability standards” (Zara, 2018). They have done this by selecting raw materials that come from more sustainable sources, allowing them to track their products from the beginning so they are aware of their full environmental impact. They also recycle as much water and chemicals as they can, which for the fiber TENCEL Lyocell is 100% of water and 95% of the chemicals being reused, which significantly decreases their waste. Furthermore, they are recycling numerous different fabrics to create new materials for their garments, which reduces waste massively. They claim to be animal friendly, forest friendly, and health and safety stringent. All of their sustainable range comes under one label, Join Life, so their consumers can identify the eco-friendliest clothes from their collection. (Zara, 2018)
RESOLUTI
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https://fashionunited.uk/news/fashion/zara-goes-sustainablewith-new-join-life-initiative/2016092021831
As a brand, it was extremely beneficial for Zara to join Detox. Not only would the negative publicity from Greenpeace have been detrimental to the brand image if they hadn’t responded, but it could have also lead to people boycotting the brand. It could be argued that Zara took over a week to respond to the allegations purposefully; it created just the right amount of attention so that when they announced their decision to remove chemicals, they would have a much larger audience. This meant that they could create a new, sustainable trait to their brand identity and have much more support and awareness than if they had announced it immediately. Zara have taken their green image one step further and have created various campaigns and clothing ranges to promote their eco-friendly attitude. By doing this, they are proving that they want to make a change for the better, instead of just promising. This means consumers automatically associate Zara with being an environmentally friendly brand and allows them to reach a new market of eco-conscious consumers, thus expanding their reach and gaining more profits. Zara’s Join Life movement encapsulates all of their actions towards sustainability under a single name, which has a dedicated area on their website and involves a clothing range, clothes collection scheme (allowing consumers to recycle old clothes instead of throwing them away), and informs consumers of Zara’s suppliers, products, stores, annual reports and more (Zara, 2018). Becoming more transparent about their products and supply chains allows consumers to trust the brand, which is important in todays modern society where people want transparency from companies. It also adds to the storytelling component of Zara’s branding, allowing them to produce a positive narrative that shows they overcame a difficult issue and are fighting to become sustainable. Twitter, N/A
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CONCLUSION
Considering the evidence and research analyzed throughout this report, we can see that Zara, when faced with a problem that could have been detrimental, calculated a response which resolved the issue and added another layer to their brand identity. Zara is now a leader in the sustainable fashion industry, preserving their original, loyal customer base and reaching out to the ecoconscious consumer. Improving their transparency about the materials they are using and actively reducing their environmental impact while considering socio-economic values allows Zara to build back trust with consumers who were skeptical of the brands ethics. Now, they are a powerful example of how companies who manage problems in the right way can ultimately build a stronger brand.
13/ SamuelJing, 2012
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REFERENCES
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Figure1- Kachi, S. (2016) Zaras perceptual map. Slideshare. (Online) [accessed 28th April 2018]. Available from: https://www.slideshare.net/shailesh_kachi/zara-62653370
Crawford, T. 2012. Zara: Fast fashion, slow to Detox. Greenpeace International. [Online]. [Last Accessed: 24/04/18]. Available from: https://www.greenpeace.org/archive-international/en/news/Blogs/makingwaves/zara-fastfashion-slow-to-detox/blog/43092/
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REFERENCES
Greenpeace. 2012. People! Zara commits to go toxic-free. Greenpeace International. [Online]. [Last Accessed: 24/04/18]. Available from: https://www.greenpeace.org/archive-international/en/news/features/Zara-commits-to-go-toxic-free/
Zara. 2018. Join Life: Our Products. [Online]. [Last Accessed: 25/04/18].
Available from: https://www.zara.com/uk/en/sustainability-products-l1455.html?v1=967750
Zara. 2018. Join Life: Our Products. [Online]. [Last Accessed: 25/04/18].
Available from: https://www.zara.com/uk/en/sustainability-products-l1455.html?v1=967750
Zara. 2018. Join Life. [Online]. [Last Accessed: 25/04/18].
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Their join life section (eco friendly) has images with quotes/promises which might be good for layout Available at; https://www.zara.com/uk/en/sustainability-l1449.html?v1=967743
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REFERENCES
https://twitter.com/greenpeaceusa/status/275977836261691392 https://twitter.com/greenpeaceusa/status/274588667757072384 https://twitter.com/GreenpeaceEAsia/status/274483016024346624 https://twitter.com/roch_lee/status/275864336667389952 https://twitter.com/LadyFellToEarth/status/984142175238844418 https://twitter.com/PrincessLJ88/status/979321104568373248
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REFERENCES IMAGES
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Samuel Jing. 06/07/12. ZARA AUTUMN/WINTER 2012 MENSWEAR ADVERTISING CAMPAIGN: STRONG TAILORING & KNITWEAR TRENDS IN A VERY MODERNISED RETRO BLACK & WHITE COLOUR TONE. [Online]. [Accessed 03/05/18]. Available from; http://blog.samueljing.com/2012/08/zara-autumnwinter-2012-menswear-advertising-campaign-strong-tailoringknitwear-trends-in-a-very-modernised-retro-black-white-colour-tone.html
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Zara. 2018. Join Life, Sustainability. [Online]. [Accessed 03/05/18]. Available from; https://www.zara.com/uk/en/sustainability-l1449.html?v1=967743
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