The Bull
Travel Fall 2024/Winter 2025
Myraneli Fabian Editor-in-Chief
Veronica Rosas Photographer
Tyler Hale Reporter
Jill Connelly
Owen Meza-Vandermeer Managing Editor
Emil Rizkalla Photographer
Icy Smith Photographer
Advisers
Morgan Keith
Ashley Shellmire Art Director
Staff Letter from EIC Content
Benjamin Hanson Contributor
Melanie Somoza Reporter
Front Cover: People walk along the ocean during a sunset at Matador Beach in Malibu, Calif., on Nov. 14, 2024. Photo By Myraneli Fabian
Back Cover: Birds fly over the ocean at Matador Beach in Malibu, Calif., on Nov. 14, 2024. Photo By Myraneli Fabian
First, I would like to thank those who agreed to be featured in the magazine and took the time to share your stories for the Fall 2024 travel issue. Building this issue has been a journey I never dreamed I would experience, and I’ve met lots of great people.
Thank you to my staff for going out of your way to travel, build a story, and make this issue possible. With extra help from my advisers, I learned to not be afraid, to go the extra mile, and that there is always a way to achieve success.
From being a new photographer to becoming editor-in-chief, it has been an honor to attend Pierce College since Fall 2023 and major in photojournalism. I picked travel for the theme of The Bull because I used to travel spontaneously after high school. Those trips gave me some of the best memories I will never forget.
Also, I want to extend a special thank you to my family and friends who have supported me on my journey since day one. I know time is precious, but I would not be where I am today if it wasn’t for your support.
As for anyone who picks up this issue, thank you for taking the time to read. I hope you enjoy what we have created.
Myraneli Fabian Editor-in-Chief
The Bull Magazine Fall 2024/Winter 2025 @thebullmag @piercemediaarts @myranelifabian_photography
Jeff Favre
One Destination at a Time: Life as a Travel Documentarian
Story by Melanie Somoza
Photos by Benjamin Hanson
Stepping into the confined walls of the aircraft and out of the comfort of her hometown of Santa Barbara, adrenaline coursed through 20-year-old Laura Le’s veins. She was nervous but determined to discover the world on her own terms, which meant leaving America for the first time.
Arriving at her destination, Tokyo, the bustling markets and neon-lit cityscape engulfed her in their chaos, each working off the electric pulse they bestowed. For one month,
she canvassed the city, enjoying the low prices on clothes and technology, finding her favorite local cuisine and overcoming a variety of mishaps, including taking the wrong trains and winding up in unexpected places such as Mt. Fuji.
But that trip ignited a passion for travel that would stay with her, fueling her dream of experiencing life one destination at a time.
Le manages TikTok and Instagram accounts that detail the ups and downs of her travel experiences. In
the past seven years, she has documented more than a dozen trips, five out of the country. Trying to keep it personal and positive, Le’s video diary is her way of sharing travel tips for budget-minded adventurers.
“I personally grew up not having too much money, and I know how hard it can be to want to go out and do something but not have the money to do it,” Le said. “But you don’t need to have money to have fun. There’s always a way.”
Le said that her childhood was
Laura Le creates content for her travel Instagram in the Little Tokyo area of Los Angeles on Oct. 25, 2024.
“You don’t need money to have fun because there is always a way to do the things that you want to do.“
-Laura Le
filled with movement and change.
“When I was growing up, I probably went to seven different schools and lived in a few different states,” she said. “That makes me want to go out there and travel and experience different things.”
Her desire to explore and discover the work has since become the backbone of her content creation, as she shares travel tips with her growing audience.
“You don’t need money to have fun because there’s always a way to do the things that you want to do,” she said. “You just have to tweak it a little and do your research.”
More people are traveling now than ever, according to McKinsey & Company. After a dramatic 75% drop in travel during 2020, the industry has been gradually recovering, with domestic travel seeing an annual growth rate of 3%.
One major trend contributing to the initial surge in travel post-pandemic has been “revenge travel”— the act of taking a trip that had been delayed due to the global shutdowns.
In Skift Research’s Global Travel Outlook 2024, experts predict that “2024 will be the year that the travel industry fully transitions from catchup to true growth above pre-pandemic levels. Without revenge travel as a tailwind, we expect a more normal growth trajectory for the travel industry this year.”
Owner and founder of Checklist
Top: Wilson Lui records Laura Le at an arcade in the area of Little Tokyo in Los Angeles, Calif., on Oct. 25, 2024.
Bottom: Laura Le’s travel blog on Instagram (@melaurale)
Travel Team Katherine Collette reflected on the post-pandemic shift in attitudes.
“People are more willing to spend money on travel now than I think they have been in a long time,” Collette said. “They realize that there are places they want to go and want to see”.
The U.S. Travel Association reports that although travel demand started off slightly slower in 2024, core areas such as air travel and international trips are still going
strong. The association reported that foreign visits have jumped 24 % compared to last year, and 93% of travelers are planning a trip within the next six months.
“Since the pandemic, more people are willing to spend money on travel,” Collette said. “I didn’t even realize how much I missed human connection until I could travel again. It’s that human connection that makes travel so special.”
While the boom in travel initially fueled by revenge travel is now lower, the industry’s recovery appears steady, with growth now driven by traditional factors such as leisure and exploration.
But every trip has been joyful for Le. While visiting Vietnam, she searched for an Ao Dai, the traditional Vietnamese dress, for her brother’s wedding. On the first day of looking, she encountered blunt responses from workers and limited assistance finding a dress that fit.
“So for the entire rest of the trip, it really scarred me,” Le said. “I kept thinking about that moment, and it gave me anxiety about people looking at me and thinking about me.”
An American size 12, or large, is considered an XXL in Vietnam, and sellers made rude comments about her body size.
Still, the situation didn’t get her down; she reminded herself to stay confident.
“The universe is testing me,” she said. “And if I can keep coming out still positive and alive, then it only makes me stronger.”
Le’s current adventures build on the inspiration that sparked her first trips, but her approach has grown more intentional, focused on uncov-
ering new perspectives rather than simply checking destinations off the list.
They’ve helped her reconnect with herself in unexpected ways.
“I was very confused for a while because I thought I knew the direction my life was going,” Le said. “But now, I’m really trying to figure it out. I know that I maybe want to be speaking more about personal growth and mental health, but mix it in with traveling.”
Similarly, her photographer, Wilson Lui, has felt a change in his confidence brought on by traveling.
“Just seeing how other people live and being curious about life outside where I’m from gives you a whole new perspective on how you want to live,” Lui said.
Lui, who has joined Le on many of her adventures, is dedicated to supporting her, even as he pursues his dream of becoming a DJ.
“I’m really just here to support her dreams,” he said. “I try to make her feel like her ideas can be conveyed in a way people will appreciate. Through photos, you can show someone’s emotions, their thoughts, and their view of the world. It helps others see how you think.”
Looking ahead, Le dreams of exploring Europe, envisioning the ultimate “Euro summer” spent wandering through Greece and Turkey. She also hopes to turn her content into a full-time career. For her, creating videos isn’t just about sharing trips—it’s about connection.
“I hope that I can be someone people relate to, someone who can get you through the day and maybe give you some ideas and inspiration,” she said. “If you put your mind to it, you can achieve anything. We should be living, no matter what our circumstances are.”
Laura Le and Wilson Lui at the Japanese Village Plaza in Los Angeles on Oct. 25, 2024.
Visitors mingle in the courtyard of the Banana Bungalow in West Hollywood, Calif., on Oct. 17, 2024.
Checking in:
Hostel Hospitality
Story by Tyler Hale
Photos by Owen Meza-Vandermeer
It’s a sunny afternoon on Hollywood Boulevard, not far from the eastern end of the Walk of Fame, and Trey Triplett is conversing with a new friend from Greece on the patio of the Banana Bungalow.
What looks like a sapphire, two-story motel with a metal gate entrance is a hostel, one of 235 in the United States, according to Hostelworld. Opened in 1992, the bungalow features 20 private rooms and 11 dormitories, including two exclusively female dorms.
The parking lot also serves as a courtyard with a basketball hoop and a side area with sofa surrounding a wall-mounted television. Both
the Hollywood Sign and the Netflix building are visible day and night. Going downstairs at the back of the hostel, there is a small recreation garden and patio with a strawdecked tiki bar and furniture where guests can mingle.
A Chicago native and military veteran, Triplett initially came to Los Angeles to be close to his daughter, who loves the beach. He now frequents hostels in the city to meet new people, which he does in the courtyard and patio.
He said his first exposure to the hostel lifestyle happened when he served overseas in England.
“You get to meet interesting people from all walks of life,” Triplett said.
“You have artists, musicians, creatives and techie people, but there’s a great mix of international flair. It’s a true bonding experience you can’t get in a regular hotel where everyone just goes around each other.”
The international guests at the Banana Bungalow hail from several countries, including France, Germany, India, Japan, Korea and Austria. Hostels are a variety of lodging for tourists and travelers designed with shared accommodations, such as dormitories with bunk beds and shared bathrooms. Though popular throughout Europe, hostels can also be found in Central America, Australia and Asia, and some Americans might be surprised to find them in their country.
According to Duncan Simpson, a hostel and travel expert in England, the first youth hostel was built in 1909 in Germany for weary walkers and travelers who covered long distances by foot. These establishments started to spread across international borders in 1924, and they didn’t reach the United States until 1934 in Massachusetts.
As technology began to expand in the subsequent decades, Simpson said the market exploded with growing demand from backpackers.
“It happened because of all the changes in the international travel of budget airlines,” Simpson said. “And then, of course, there was the internet at the end of the 20th century. The ‘80s saw a rise in private
hostel ownership out to make a profit besides the ones run by official organizations running them as a charity or voluntary organization.”
While youth hostels are typically geared for younger demographics, they can accommodate any age group unless they have certain rules barring underage guests.
There have been some negative preconceptions surrounding hostel life, given the notoriety of the horror franchise “Hostel.”
But Triplett said such a reputation doesn’t dissuade travelers if they keep common sense and follow safety guidelines.
“I like my organs where they are, but Halloween is around the corner,” Triplett joked. “So if that’s going to
A view of the parking lot and courtyard area of the Banana Bungalow in Hollywood, Calif., on Oct. 17, 2024.
happen, I’ll stay at a hotel.”
The Banana Bungalow prioritizes safety for its guests, especially its international demographic. The owners dissuade them from sharing their entrance keypad passwords with outsiders. It is considered wise to stay in a room with a friend or family member.
Urban hostels such as the Banana Bungalow offer guests a variety of activities designed to take advantage of the tourist attractions the city has to offer. Rural hostels often offer walking, canoeing, whitewater rafting or cycling opportunities, depending on where they are.
When guests call it a day at the Bungalow, they are served free dinner and BBQ, provided and cooked
by the staff. It is a good time for visitors to mingle and socialize, perhaps playing foosball, billiards or singing karaoke.
“I like meeting people from all over the place, especially the ones from Europe who are more accustomed to being in hostels,“
-Devin Lauder
New employee Devin Lauder enjoys making strong personal connections, which makes hostel life more
attractive compared to staying at a hotel. He works at the front desk in the small office between the entrance and parking area.
Lauder said it’s a neat experience to catch up with familiar faces from previous guests and learn from new ones.
“I like meeting people from all over the place, especially the ones from Europe who are more accustomed to being in hostels,” Lauder said. “People like to hang out in the common area and share things with each other in a nice communal atmosphere.”
Chicago native Trey Triplett poses for a photo in the Banana Bungalow in Hollywood, Calif. on Oct. 17, 2024.
Until the Break of Dawn
Story and photos by Ashley Shellmire
He had been waiting all week for this. It was 3 a.m., pitch black outside and the crickets hummed in the stillness.
He whispered to himself, “Alright... tickets, sunblock, chair, baby wipes, deodorant.” After one last check, he was out the door. Long periods of standing, running and jumping awaited him, so preparation was a must.
Jesus Hernandez is a 31-year-old extreme concert-goer who has attended about 100 concerts and festivals. He takes pride in making the most of his experience, even if that means sacrificing comfort and enduring sleep deprivation.
His passion for attending concerts and festivals is therapeutic to him.
“It helps when you’re going through something,” Hernandez said. “Say you’re having a bad time in your life, like in a breakup or drama going on, going to shows helps you get away from all that.”
Having attended roughly 95 concerts and eight festivals, Hernandez has an extensive collection of items
Jesus Hernandez overlooks his immense collection of band memorabilia in Chatsworth, Calif., on Oct. 23, 2024.
from concerts, including setlists, drumsticks, sweatbands, guitar and bass picks, as well as various other band memorabilia.
“It’s a privilege,” Hernandez said. “Because it just shows that they appreciate me as a fan. I’m not being a fake fan and I’m not being a poser. I know what I’m talking about. I know what I post when I mention something about them and they appreciate it.”
Hernandez said he is almost always among the first to arrive, if not the first, and that has provided him with more intimate interactions with the bands that pour over into the social media world.
“It’s a cool thing, because when I see them again and they remember me from that post, they’re like, ‘Hey, it’s you again,’”Hernandez said.
Hernandez warned that trying to be in the front for your favorite band’s performance is not for the weak.
“If you’re trying to run and race to the barricade, it’s a free-for-all race,” Hernandez said. “It’s not going to be comfortable running in Converse.”
Hernandez has made some sacrifices that might seem extreme to the average person attending, but to him it’s all worth it in the end.
“I personally do it just to save money, but I camp in my car,” Hernandez said. “Typically, I don’t sleep. I will just go to the festival, shower at a gym, I get dinner and I only get one or two hours of sleep before I go line up again for the next day. It puts my body in a fight or flight mode.”
Although he might make it look easy, he said that it takes a certain type of mindset and willpower.
“You’re not there to impress anyone,” he said. “You’re not there to brag about what you’re doing. I’m going because I actually enjoy that music. I’ve been wanting to see this band. So I prepare myself. I get ex-
cited. And then you end up developing, you end up making a lot of friends.”
As a frequent person at the front of the line, Hernandez said he has made several friends, including Jorge Guerrero. They attended several of the same shows before becoming friends.
“You just try to make the most of it,” Guerrero said. “We’re not necessarily there to be first, but to take in the whole experience and have some time to hang out with each other.”
Hernandez has also made friends with some band members as well, including Jacob Flores, the bassist from the band Convictions.
“He’s definitely one of the ones that goes above and beyond, for sure,” Flores said. “I can’t even imagine doing some of the stuff that he does to make sure that he’s always at the front of the line and at the front of the barricades for all this.”
Mutual support, whether from teammates or fans, creates a strong community.
“You’re able to enjoy yourself and it helps you forget everything,” Hernandez said. “So when the violent music hits you, the energy you feel around you and the people you’re around, it’s just a good thing.”
Top: Jesus Hernandez shows his collection of VIP lanyards as part of his collection of band memorabilia in Chatsworth, Calif., on Oct. 23, 2024.
Bottom: Jesus Hernandez shares his collection of photos taken at various shows with friends and band memebers in Chatsworth, Calif., on Oct. 23, 2024.
Life Through a Lens
Travel writer Christopher Reynolds takes a photo of Griffith Park from his balcony in Los Angeles, Calif., on Oct. 22, 2024.
Story by Icy Smith
Photos by Myraneli Fabian and Icy Smith
As the son of a journalist, Christopher Reynolds became interested in storytelling when two of his friends took him to the paste-up room for Fresno State’s student newspaper on their way to a party.
By the time he graduated in 1982, Reynolds had already logged two years as a reporter for the Fresno Bee, followed by seven years at the San Diego Union before heading to the Los Angeles Times.
But it was several trips he took in his 20s around the world that led to his current career as a travel writer who frequently takes photos for his assignments.
Since 2015, Reynolds said he has “kayaked in Canada, surfed in San Diego, snorkeled in American Samoa, floated in Xochimilco in Mexico, climbed the hills of Dingle, Ireland, and swallowed twitching seafood in Seoul.”
“I realized that as much as I loved storytelling, I really like being able
to incorporate photographs into the storytelling,” Reynolds said.
Reynolds said his best travel assignment was when he went to small towns across the United States to write stories and take pictures, including Oxford, Mississippi; Williamstown, Massachusetts; Homer, Alaska; and Sheridan, Wyoming. He spent several days in each town interviewing locals.
Traveling and listening has helped him understand people and recognize what is important in a story.
Los Angeles Times photo editor Taylor Arthur has been working with Reynolds for more than five years on the travel and lifestyle sections of the Times. “The first thing I learned about Chris is that he never goes out to report on his stories without his camera,” Arthur said. “Even if we assign a staff photographer to go with him, the camera is still always on him.”
Like Reynolds, Arthur believes the most rewarding thing about photog-
raphy is storytelling and connecting with communities. She said there is a trend of using people in pictures to show more experiences instead of just a plate of food or a place.
“As a photographer, you have to understand, have some connection
Travel writer Christopher Reynolds writes in his notepad at The Grove on Third Street and Fairfax Avenue in Los Angeles, Calif., on Sept. 30, 2024.
to the community or at least be comfortable with being vulnerable,” Arthur said.
Reynolds said he makes a practice of talking to locals to build trust while on travel photography trips. Nearly 25 years ago, he got invited
to join a cultural exchange trip to the Ivory Coast in West Africa. He embedded himself in the group on the trip and earned their trust to tell their story as well as possible.
“By the end of the trip, I had people showing me their diary entries, and I’d made some friends that I held onto for a long time. It was a really rewarding trip,” Reynolds said.
Professional freelance photographer Mark Edward Harris said research is a key to successful travel assignments. Known for his photography books on North Korea, he has visited the country 10 times. Before his first visit, Harris researched the history of the region and the war that split Korea in two to understand the land and people who live there.
Harris also mentioned that social media is an important way for people to see your work and hire you to take pictures.
“It’s a free advertising tool,” Harris said. “Unfortunately, now, a lot
of public relations companies, they just look at your social media numbers. They don’t look at, ‘Oh, my God. He’s been published in Vanity Fair, Newsweek, TIME, everybody, right?’”
But technology has changed the industry. Once the smartphone was invented, fewer clients wanted to pay for pictures because they can take good photos on their own.
“It’s easier to get great pictures, but it’s harder to get paid for them,” Reynolds said.
Regardless of technological changes, Reynolds said understanding people better is what’s important. He tells young reporters not to make everything “make-or-break” when taking photos or writing a story.
“If you’re showing your humanity and coming to a better understanding of the person or people that you’re with, it’s probably going to lead to a better opportunity for an image or for quotes,” Reynolds said.
Travel writer Christopher Reynolds orders food from Wendy Vasquez at the Farmers Market on Third Street and Fairfax Avenue in Los Angeles, Calif., on Sept. 30, 2024.
A Los Angeles Times layout of Big Sur with writing and photos by Christopher Reynolds.
Sky High Hobbies
Myraneli Fabian
Story and Photos by
Pilot Dave Rogers stands by a Cirrus Aircraft SR20 at Santa Monica Airport in Santa Monica, Calif., on Oct. 20, 2024.
On a warm cloudy summer
Sunday afternoon at Santa Monica Airport, the pilot carried a duffle with his belongings, including his pilot certificate, Federal Aviation Administration (FAA) medical certificate, iPad with a flight planning app, flight logbook and an extra pair of sunglasses.
He checked in, grabbed the keys and walked toward the plane at the terminal. After doing a couple of laps around the plane for safety checks, he unchained the wheels, looked at the fuel on each wing, went through the safety checklist on the dashboard, and put on the headset. The rocket-loaded parachute located behind the baggage window of the Cirrus can be launched with the pull of a lever, which can guide the plane to a safe landing.
It’s time for takeoff.
It’s a typical day for Dave Rogers, a private pilot that enjoys flying around the country with friends, family or solo.
Rogers was born in Central Missouri and grew up outside St. Louis where, as a little kid, he wanted to either be an astronaut or a pilot. Ultimately, he decided to study art at Bradley University in Illinois before moving to New York, where he worked in advertising. He came to Los Angeles in 2017 and attended Santa Monica Airport’s flight school.
Rogers had thought about going to the Air Force Academy, but he realized that it potentially involved war, and he was not keen on serving full time in the military.
For Rogers, flying is not a cheap hobby. Every time he turns on the propeller of a Cirrus SR20 or SR22, all he hears is “money, money, money, money, money.”
“The cheaper Cirrus that I fly at is $240 an hour, and that’s wet weight,
(Center) Pilot Dave Rogers pushes the Cirrus Aircraft SR20 off the lot at the Santa Monica Airport in Santa Monica, Calif., on Oct. 20, 2024.
so that includes fuel,” Rogers said.
Rogers added that he likes the Cirrus’ safety features, including autopilot and a parachute system.
Rogers rents planes from two places—Santa Monica and Van Nuys airports. He is currently on the waitlist to join a flying club named AirSpacers to make it substantially cheaper, because he would become part owner with however many members are in the club.
“Buying a plane is always on my list, but I think I’d rather get a house before I get a plane,” Rogers said.
The requirements to become a commercial airline pilot include receiving a private pilot license, a plane, a commercial license and to become a Certified Flight Instructor (CFI).
Hannah Clader teaches everyone from beginners getting their first license to pilots working toward further ratings. She flies for United Airlines.
“I learned so much as an instructor just by helping others learn,” said Cladder, who taught Rogers in his introductory flight lesson. “Students are more responsible for the pace of the training.”
Between 2008 and 2009, requirements for pilots were changed to require an airline transport license (ATP). Rogers has been flying for five years and needs about 250 more hours to qualify for an ATP. The license is a requirement to carry passengers in large jets.
“I don’t have a commercial license and I’m not chasing being an airline pilot,” Rogers said. “I would rather be home and fly someplace, you know, three, four days out of the month.”
On his flights, there are usually his family and friends as his passengers, and he is the only pilot.
(Top) Pilot Dave Rogers flies over the 405 Freeway in Los Angeles, Calif., on Oct. 20, 2024.
(Bottom) Pilot Dave Rogers pours oil in the wing of the Cirrus Aircraft SR20 in Santa Monica, Calif., on Oct. 20, 2024.
“I’m like, ‘Hey look, I don’t think something’s going to happen, but if it does, this is the button you push,’” Rogers said, referring to the parachute release.
Sonya Zammel Rogers, Dave Rogers’ wife, said she still worries about her husband because pilots who have crashed have had thousands of hours of flying experience.
After he achieved his license, the couple went to Santa Barabara on their third date to celebrate Sonya Rogers’ birthday.
“We packed some food, a little tiny birthday cake, and we just had a small picnic at the airport,” she said. “It was the best birthday ever.”
The couple’s passion for flying soars beyond and into their personal
life. Despite the fear of an accident, they enjoy flying at least four times a month.
“It feels like total freedom,” Dave Rogers said. “You’re above and beyond the hustle and bustle of regular day to day life. It also really shows you a different perspective of the planet.”
Tours, Tombstones, and True Crime
Story and Photos by Veronica Rosas
Adam Levine is like a kid in a candy shop as he walks through Evergreen Cemetery in Los Angeles. He pulls out his phone to document the 142-year-old, gothic stone chapel with crawling ivy in front of him while marveling over its beauty.
Clean shaven and wearing white khaki shorts and a T-shirt, Levine’s appearance doesn’t scream “man who studies serial killers for a living.” But as the owner of Grave Line Tours, a haunted crime tour company, he has been fascinated with death since childhood.
That’s when he hopped into a hearse and learned the grisly details and locations of murder victims in the city with Dearly Departed Tours, a company run by Scott Michaels, an expert on Charles Manson. Although the hearse looked like any you might see from the outside, the inside contained benches made specifically for tour guests.
“I remember never being able to forget that I was in the same vehicle used to transport corpses,” Levine said. “It gave you the feeling that you were inextricable with something grotesque and macabre. It was always in the back of my mind, and I loved it.”
Levine remembers clearly the binders full of black and white crime scene photos that were passed around to the tour guests.
“It lent this aura of authenticity to it. That’s part of why the tour was so special,” Levine said. “It was hard to duplicate because it was really weird in the first place.”
Levine’s interest in the macabre was not exactly celebrated in his family.
“They did not get it out of me, but I probably questioned it more than I needed to because there was a lot of talk in my family like, ‘What’s going on with Adam?’ That was just nonsense,” Levine said.
It never crossed his mind that one day he would be running his own haunted tour company. After graduating college with a degree in fine arts, Levine wound up working construction, restoring old houses in Los Angeles.
But the pandemic caused Dearly Departed Tours to close its doors, and Levine decided to take a chance.
“It was the kid-ness of it that really gave me the passion,” he said. “It was a really delible memory that went straight to my heart.”
He didn’t think about whether or not it would be hard work, and instead he focused on how exciting it could be.
So, Grave Line Tours was born. And while he enjoyed starting the new business, the frightening part wasn’t detailing the crimes.
“I didn’t take it very seriously. Now it’s scary because I’m doing it,” Levine said. “There’s this pressure I put on myself to get to where we Travel 20
Graphic by Ashley Shellmire
need to be in order to be successful. It’s a lot less stressful when you’re first starting than when you’re actually in the game and time’s going by.”
Levine chose to replace the hearse he loved with a funeral limo because his friends told him they didn’t want to ride in a hearse. Although Grave Line doesn’t have binders of crime scene photos, they offer a QR code guests can scan while on the tour that
shows a list of every tour stop with photos and details about the events that happened there.
Guests are driven by the tour guide, who tells the stories of the victims of the crimes, and shares clips of news announcements, significant songs from the time and audio of interviews from both victims and their murderers.
“I wanted it to be everything the bus tours are not,” he said. “I don’t
want it to be impersonal. I don’t want it to be an afterthought.”
Levine doesn’t typically run the tours. The woman guests will most likely get to know is Blaze Lovejoy, a screenwriter from London who has been with Grave Line Tours for two years.
Prior to being a tour guide, she worked as a realtor who came across her share of haunted houses. While at lunch with guests on a recent tour, she told them the story of taking a photo that was left behind at a house she was selling and she tells them that “something” followed her home because of it. The idea of ghosts and haunted places is universal, according to Tok Thompson. With a master’s degree in folklore and a doctorate in anthropology, Thompson has studied the history of ghost stories in various cultures.
“Every major city around the world I’ve been to have ghost tours,” he said. “Haunted tours are always very local, specific to the history of
2024.
Bottom: Tour guide Blaze Lovejoy drives a limo during a Grave Line tour in Los Angeles, Calif., on Oct. 14,
Top: Grave Line Tours owner, Adam Levine sits in reflection at Evergreen Cemetery in Los Angeles, Calif. on Oct.
the city you are in. It’s an alternative history for the most part, which is a big part of what ghost stories are.”
Thompson said that most Americans believe in ghosts.
“This is the human condition,” he explained. “The basis for all religion. How do we get around this mortality thing? If you believe in ghosts, you sort of believe in life after death in some form.”
Trevor Bodie from Canada said he is “morbidly interested” to visit various haunted locations. On his way to Los Angeles, he stopped at the Winchester House in San Jose and Alcatraz in San Francisco.
After leaving Los Angeles, he had plans to travel to a haunted ghost town in Bodie, California a place that is reputedly so haunted the security guards dust off their shoes to avoid bringing dust back home with them. Legend has it that any visitor who takes anything from the abandoned town will be plagued with bad luck.
“I haven’t decided if I’m going to take anything yet,” Bodie said.
Although Grave Line Tours is about famous crimes and killers, the
focus is on respecting the memory of the victims and being highly critical of their murderers. On a recent tour, Lovejoy repeatedly made fun of Manson, calling him insane, criticizing his music and pointing out his delusions.
When guests stopped for lunch at an infamous hotdog stand that Manson frequented, Lovejoy joked about the type of person he was.
“He thinks he’s the Messiah, but he’s so bored waiting for his stripper (a member of his family who worked across the street) that he graffitis on the hot dog stand,” she said.
Levine’s work with Grave Line has led him to find kindred spirits who
understand his interest in the macabre, and it has given him a community and a new perspective.
“When I was 13, it was seen as abnormal to be interested in serial killers, true crime, death—things that were basically just grotesque and gory,” he said. “You were seen as being weird. And then, with the internet, that quickly went away because people realized there were a lot of other people like us. And we found each other.”
Bottom: A view of The Rosenheim Mansion, the filming location for“American Horror Story: Murder House” in Los Angeles, Calif., on Oct. 14, 2024.
Photos By Owen Meza-Vandermeer
Driving through the rugged Panamint Mountains, visitors to Death Valley National Park wind down the narrow, twisting road of Highway 190. After about an hour of navigating the mountainous terrain, the valley floor finally emerges in the distance—a stark, vast basin stretching out beneath the cliffs, signaling the descent into the first of two valleys that make up this otherworldly landscape.
Known for its extreme weather with temperatures ranging from 39 degrees in some December nights
and exceeding 117 degrees in the summer, and for having the steepest elevation change from Mount Whitney (14,505 feet) to the lowest part of Badwater Basin (-282 feet), Death Valley is often described as one of the harshest places on Earth.
But from late fall through spring, when temperatures cool, visitors from around the world come to experience its rare beauty. The park’s diverse terrain is a showcase of natural wonders, from sprawling sand dunes and volcanic craters to multicolored mountains and the salt flats
of Badwater Basin, the lowest point in North America.
Tourists from around the world flock to the park to experience a beauty different from the comfort of their home.
Canadian Tourist Richard Jones and his wife Maureen were on a three-week trip from Vancouver Island, Victoria.
“When you first come into Death Valley and you see all the shapes, it looks like toffee-colored candy and whatnot,” said Jones.
London-based flight attendants
Daniel Smith and Victoria West were staying in Las Vegas due to a layover, but instead of spending the day roaming the strip they decided to visit Death Valley. West is an avid explorer, who has visited almost 20 national parks and ranked Death Valley in her top 10.
“You’ve got it all, to be honest,” West said. “You have the mountains, you’ve got the desert, you’ve got the beaches, you’ve got forests.”
Smith enjoyed the diversity of the desert and remarked how different the landscape is to that of his home country.
“The scenery, it looks out of this world. You could be on Mars right now. It looks alien,” Smith said. “I think America should be really proud of its national parks.”
Upon entering the park, visitors
who are staying overnight are required to stop by a ranger station or visitor center to pay a $15-30 fee for a park pass. An $80 annual pass is also available, which gives access to multiple national parks, state parks and national recreation areas.
There are various developed and primitive campgrounds where tourists can stay, but it’s important to check for any restrictions on campfires and vehicles, as well as to verify what kinds of amenities are provided. In a developed campground, water, toilets and waste bins are usually provided.
For visitors not looking to camp, lodging is available at Stovepipe Wells Village, The Inn at Death Valley, The Ranch At Furnace Creek and Panamint Springs Resort. Information about prices and reservations
can be found at the national park service website, nps.gov.
Tourist Char Miller, historian and professor at Pomona College, tries to maintain an understanding of and respect for the history of the park. Miller wrote a book, “Death Valley National Park: A History,” where he includes the much neglected history of the natives who have inhabited the valley for thousands of years.
“I think to be a good tourist is to be a respecter of the place that you tour and that you recreate in, and one way to be that good tourist is to do a bit of reading beforehand about why that place is the way it is,” Miller said. “There are origin stories here that need to be explored, because otherwise you walk into this place and you don’t understand why you’re there.”
(Bottom) The sun sets behind the mountains on an autumn evening at Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes in Death Valley National Park on Oct. 19, 2024.
Death Valley has been inhabited by the Timbisha Shoshone people for 1,000 years, a nomadic tribe who transitioned between the valley floor and the Panamint Mountains throughout the year and who now have a village near Furnace Creek.
The solitude of the canyon can suffocate the visitors more attuned to big city life with a deafening silence that’s almost meditative, but Miller enjoys it.
“Even in the daytime, go down a road, pull off to the side, get out, turn the engine off, close everything up and just stand there,” Miller said. “And the solitude and the quiet and the peace that comes with that is pretty magical.”
(Right) A dead branch lies on cracked ground at the Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes in Death Valley National Park on Oct. 19, 2024.
Brotherhood on the Open Road
Story and Photos
by Emil Rizkalla
Ray Perez (left) and Armando Cantu (right), members of Southern California branch of Operation Restoring Veteran Hope, fist pump on the I-10 on their way to Mormon Lake, Ariz., on Sept. 20, 2024.
In early October, about a dozen members of the Bunker motorcycle club, lead by Ray Perez, each wearing their black leather vests, cruised along I-10, heading from Phoenix to Mormon Lake, American flags flapping off the rear of their Harley-Davidsons.
The club’s annual trek joined them with more than 200 others at St. Joseph’s Camp for a veterans healing retreat run by Operation Restoring Veteran Hope. The event is in the mountains, a break from city life. Veterans and bikers spend days kayaking, horseback riding, talking around the fire at night and riding their bikes.
Motorcycle clubs are more than a group riding the roads. It’s a way to share history and common interests, and to find comfort in camaraderie, with the road and motorcycles serving as a form of therapy.
“Four wheels move the body, but two wheels move the soul,” Perez said.
Perez first started riding bikes
when he was a kid, and the feeling of freedom has stayed with him.
“When I am on my bike, it’s like the world disappears. It’s just me, the road, and my thoughts. I feel peace,” he said.
Perez’s love for motorcycles also gives him a strong community. His group, Operation Restoring Veteran Hope, is there to help veterans, but the larger motorcycle community has the same ideas.
Todd C. Wiggen, a professor who studies motorcycle culture, said biker clubs give people a family that is hard to find in other places.
“For bikers, it’s not only the destination,” Wiggen said. “It’s about the journey and the friends made along the way.”
Many bikers plan long trips on beautiful roads, through mountains, and through small towns.
“You see the world in a new way,” said Armando Cantu, the vice president of Operation Restoring Veteran Hope. “You are close to nature and the weather. It’s real.”
Motorcycle clubs often go on trips together and help each other.
“When you ride with a group, you are part of something big,” Cantu said. “You help each other if someone’s bike has problems. It’s about respect, loyalty and brotherhood. Every trip is different, and you learn something new each time.”
Perez explained that the trip to Arizona is not only for fun.
“It’s about being together with others who understand what I went through,” he said.
For veterans, this is important. After leaving the military, life can feel lonely, and biker clubs help with support.
“For veterans, biker clubs give a way to share feelings, make friends and find a family they lost when they left the military,” Wiggen said.
Perez and Cantu help other veterans who want to go on the retreat by raising money.
“We work all year to make sure as many veterans can come as possible,” Cantu said. “The retreat helps
Santino Estrella (left) and Lamar Peterson (right) raise an American flag during an annual veterans healing retreat on Sept. 20, 2024, in Mormon Lake, Ariz.
vets relax and find peace. We feel proud when we can make it possible for others to join us.”
Wiggen explained that biker clubs are often misunderstood by people.
“People think of bikers as dangerous because of movies and shows, but most motorcycle clubs are peaceful and care about helping others,” he said. “The media shows biker gangs as involved in crime, but that is not true for most clubs. Many bikers even do charity work to support their communities.”
Perez has seen this misunderstanding of bikers change over time.
“In the past, people would look at me and think I was trouble just because I was wearing a leather jacket and my club patch,” he explained. “Now people know more about us. We raise money, and we help out in the community, so people can see who we really are.”
Wiggen believes that these biker clubs are important for veterans, especially those who have trouble adjusting to life after the military.
“In the military, people have strong connections to each other, like a family,” Wiggen said. “When they come back to regular life, they sometimes feel like something is missing. Biker clubs bring back that feeling of family and support. It gives them a place to feel safe, understood, and part of something bigger.”
Perez believes the future of biker culture is bright. He thinks biker clubs will keep growing and become more open to different people.
“We’re seeing more family-friendly clubs,” he said. “In the past, clubs used to have strict rules about who could join, but now it’s more open. We’re focusing on building a community.”
Raymond Gonzalez tells a story from when he served in World War II on Sept. 21, 2024, in Mormon Lake, Ariz.
Santino Estrella participates in a horseback riding activity during the veterans healing retreat on Sept. 21, 2024, in Mormon Lake, Ariz.
(Bottom) Ray Perez drives his motorcycle to Morman Lake, Ariz. to attend a veterans healing retreat on Sept. 20, 2024.
Story and
Nestled between the Pacific Ocean and the Santa Ynez Mountains less than two hours from Los Angeles, Santa Barbara is a city that blends its rich history, pleasant weather and natural beauty into its laid back community. Often referred to as the “American Riviera,” Santa Barbara’s Mediterranean climate, Spanish-style architecture, historic landmarks, local restaurants and diverse scenery make it a popular destination for tourists.
Many Santa Barbara locals are people who visited the city and never wanted to leave.
“I came here for college, and afterwards I said, ‘Well, you know,
Owen Meza-Vandermeer
it’s a nice place. I think I’ll stick around,”’ said historian Michael Redmon, who used to work for the Santa Barbara Historical Museum.
“I’m not a big city kind of person, so this is a good sized town. Because we have UCSB, we still would get entertainment, concerts, et cetera. Also, LA is not that far away if you want to go to LA for something.”
Santa Barbara’s story begins long before the Spanish arrived in California. The area was originally inhabited by the Chumash people, who inhabited the Santa Barbara coast and Channel Islands for at least 13,000 years before the arrival of the Spaniards.
The city is named after Saint Barbara, the patron saint of artillerymen and miners. The name was first used by Spanish explorer Juan Rodríguez Cabrillo in 1542 and later became official. However, it wasn’t un-
til the early 19th century that the area began to take on the characteristics that make it so recognizable today.
In 1782, the Spanish established El Presidio de Santa Bárbara, the oldest structure in the city, which partially stands today as a state park. The Presidio served as a military outpost and played a central role in Santa Barbara’s early development.
Early tourism picked up in the 1900s, after the construction of Stern’s Wharf and the introduction of the railroad to the city, which made travel to Santa Barbara easier than the potentially treacherous stagecoach ride from Los Angeles. Over time, the city gained a reputation as a health destination, thanks in part to its pleasant weather and proximity to hot springs.
A pivotal moment in the city’s history occurred when a powerful, 6.3-magnitude earthquake leveled much of the downtown area in 1925, including the iconic Mission that had been established by Spain in the 1800s. The destruction left the city in near ruins but also sparked an effort to preserve the character of the region’s architecture.
In the wake of the disaster, Santa Barbara implemented strict building codes designed to preserve the Spanish Revival architecture that characterizes the city today.
As a result, visitors and locals of
Santa Barbara are treated to a picturesque setting that blends old with new. Adobe walls, red-tile roofs and central courtyards evoke the city’s historic past while meeting the demands of modern life.
“One aspect of our building style is maintaining a certain character and ambiance and cultural heritage. And the other part of it is making our city look beautiful for the people who are living in it and for the visitors com-
A couple walks in the Santa Barbara Harbor on Oct. 4, 2024.
Graphic illustration by Ashley Shellmire
Photos by
ing here too,” said Emily Alessio, the director of education at the Santa Barbara Historical Museum. “I think it’s inspiring for people who aren’t from here to come and see history on display like this.”
On weekends, visitors can take part in the Santa Barbara “Art Walk” along Cabrillo Boulevard, just steps from the wharf. Local artists display their work along the scenic walk, creating an artsy atmosphere along the waterfront.
Santa Barbara’s historical preservation efforts are seen across the city, from the Santa Barbara Historical Museum, housed in a Monterey-style adobe building, to the iconic Santa Barbara Mission. The Historical Museum, which owns two adobes, showcases the city’s evolution over centuries, from the early Spanish settlers to the vibrant cultural hub it is to day.
Its exhibits feature artifacts from
Posters of the Old Spanish
the city’s storied past. There is a permanent exhibition of the artworks of Edward Borein, a well known artist who depicted scenes from the American West, as well as a temporary exhibition about the Old Spanish Days Fiesta,the city’s oldest and largest civic celebration, including original posters and Spanish-style costumes from the event.
Days Fiesta hang an exhibition at the Santa Barbara Historical Museum on Oct. 4, 2024.
The Presidio, built in 1782, re-
Locals and visitors shop at the weekly “Art Walk” along Cabrillo Street in Santa Barbara, Calif., on Oct. 5, 2024.
mains one of Santa Barba- ra’s most significant historical sites. Situated a block from the Historical Museum, the Presidio is a window into the city’s Spanish colonial roots and offers visitors a glimpse into the lives of its residents. About a block south on is Casa de la Guerra, one of the oldest houses built in Santa Barbara.
Visitors can tour both the Casa de la Guerra and El Presidio de Santa Bárbara by purchasing a $5 pass.
Santa Barbara’s dedication to preserving its cultural heritage is matched by a thriving arts scene. The city is home to numerous galleries, museums and performance spaces, many of which host events throughout the year. On the first Thursday of each month, local galleries stay open late to showcase exhibits and host special events, providing a monthly opportunity for residents and visitors to experience Santa Barbara’s vibrant creative community.
To further embrace its cultural heritage, the city features many signs and placards explaining different historical landmarks. “There’s so many little Easter eggs around Santa
A view of Mission Creek from Mason Street in Santa Barbara, Calif., on Oct. 6, 2024.
Barbara,” said Alessio, a San Diego native. “Santa Barbara is very visual with its history. I mean, its architecture, duh… but then you get these historical placards all over town.”
Santa Barbara also hosts regular events that highlight its artistic heritage, such as the annual Summer Solstice Parade, a colorful celebration of local art and culture that takes place every June. Participants dress in elaborate costumes and parade through the streets, drawing large crowds from all around the world. Similarly, the Santa Barbara International Film Festival brings filmmakers, celebrities and cinephiles to the city each year, bringing more fun and entertainment to the city throughout the year.
Beyond its rich culture and historical landmarks, Santa Barbara is situated between rugged mountains and the Pacific Ocean, creating a diverse backdrop and pleasant weather. The city’s Mediterranean climate is one of the key reasons for its popularity as the weather rarely gets too hot or too cold, making it a good spot for year-round outdoor
activities.
Tim Taylor, a seventh-generation Santa Barbaran and mortgage banker, described the city as a place with an irresistible allure. “I’ve been to some of the most beautiful places in Europe and Asia, but it’s always when you come back to Santa Barbara, and everybody says this, ‘Oh my God, what have we here,’” Taylor said. “I think the weather also is a big part of it as well. It just doesn’t
get too hot or too cold, so it’s pretty much always like this. Sort of perfect.”
One of Santa Barbara’s signature attractions is its waterfront, which features several beaches for swimming, surfing and relaxing. The Santa Barbara Harbor, with its bustling docks and seaside restaurants, offers visitors a taste of coastal life, while the nearby Channel Islands National Park, accessible by boat, provides opportunities for hiking, kayaking and wildlife watching.
For those seeking a more serene experience, the Santa Barbara Botanic Garden showcases the native flora of the region, and the nearby rose garden at the Santa Barbara Mission offers a peaceful spot for picnics and reflection. The Mission itself, known as the “Queen of the Missions,” remains a focal point of Santa Barbara’s spiritual and historical identity.
Despite its relatively small size, Santa Barbara offers many activities and opportunities for both residents and visitors.
