Ski Utah THE GREATEST SNOW ON EARTH
Snow Days
WINTER 2019–20
Get Stoked, Gear Up & Get Yourself to Utah
SKI-IN, CHILL OUT
FAMILY TRAVEL SURVIVAL TIPS
IN PRAISE OF PIZZA
SK I
T HE
DIFFERENCE
Jillian Vogtli: Ski with a Champion Athlete 2 skiutah.com
F I R S T C H A I R : 9 : 01 AM E L E VAT I O N : 9,570´ A I R T E M PE R AT U R E : 31°F W I N DS PE E D : S W 14 MPH TR A I L S E X PLO R E D : 9 HOT COCO A BR E A K S : 1
IMME AS UR AB L E Some things in life can be quantified, but at Deer Valley, we focus on perfecting the immeasurable. Our family-friendly amenities provide an experience that has a little something for everyone. Discover why Deer Valley has earned a sterling reputation. Learn more at deervalley. com/discover the greatest snow on earth
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snowbird.com 800.232.9542
2 skiutah.com
CONDITIONS MAY VARY. Photo: Matt Crawley
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– In –
Winter’s Favorite Town
TM
ADVENTURE IS RIGHT OUTSIDE YOUR DOOR. Here winter means escaping to a charming town that has it all. Where you can experience The Greatest Snow on Earth® at two distinctive ski resorts – Deer Valley and Park City Mountain. Where the scenery, nightlife, and dining are unforgettable. Yes, all that in an easy to get to ski-in/ski-out town. Discover why Park City, Utah is Winter’s Favorite Town
TM
at VisitParkCity.com.
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contents
84
LODGE LIVING photos by Chris Pearson styling by Hailey Klotz
D Chris Pearson
Gliding into a cozy lodge at the end of the day to soak in the hot tub, partake in gourmet-level fare, sip a cocktail by a roaring fire and then waking the next morning to do it all over again is, for many skiers and riders, the definition of living the dream. We bring that dream to life—while giving you a sneak peek at our favorite gear for winter 2019-20—at Alta’s newly renovated Snowpine Lodge.
FEATURES
50
FROM DUSK TO DAWN
57
A WEEKEND IN THE MOUNTAINS
63
THE GREATEST SNOW ON EARTH
90
RETURNING FOR THE DIRT
It takes many hands—and a whole lot of expertise—to prepare a Utah mountain resort for the powderhungry faithful that flock to its slopes every day of the winter season. Here we provide a sundown-to-sunrise glimpse of what that entails at Snowbird.
We get it. Your time is precious, particularly those longed-for moments spent in the mountains. Which is why we’ve curated four doit-all, not-a-second-wasted itineraries for making the most of your time in Utah. You’re welcome.
Far beyond the typical who-whatwhere-why beta you’d expect, our Utah Resort Guide also includes tons of little-known, insider 411 about all 15 of the state’s resorts, stuff like where to sip coffee with a view and the burger you have to see to believe.
In the spring, The Greatest Snow on Earth® gives way to some of the best mountain biking routes in the West, from easy-does-it singletrack to whiteknuckle flow trails brimming with terrain features. Here we give you 15 reasons to return to Utah for the dirt.
by Sean Zimmerman-Wall
by Jeremy Pugh
by Melissa Fields
by Sean Zimmerman-Wall
FIRST TRACKS 17
FREEZE FRAME
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BACKSTORY
Meet the photographer who translated his love for all things winter into creating surreal works of art.
The innovative beginnings behind one of the most well-known and beloved goggle brands, Smith Optics.
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FOOD + DRINK
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TRIP HACKS
Join us for a taste of locally blended wine, artisan cheese and dinnertime where getting there is half the fun.
Skip schlepping and get groceries, skis and even fresh cookies delivered to your condo, hotel or ski house.
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LET IT SNOW
With climate change now a grim fact of life, here we give credit where credit is due, to Utah resorts keeping it cool.
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PROFILE
James Niehues has managed to “paint himself into the corner” of one of the most unique professions around.
DEPARTMENTS
33 GOOD EATS
37 OFF-PISTE
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Pizza and skiing go together like peanut butter and jelly. A Utah foodie shares where she indulges her pizza cravings at purveyors that are conveniently located nearby the slopes from grab-and-go slices to high-brow, gourmet pies.
Indeed, skiing and snowboarding hold a very special place in our hearts. But the Utah mountains offer a plethora of other ways to play in the snow worth checking out, from ice skating and dogsledding to snowmobiling and cross-country skiing.
Despite our fair state’s teetotalling reputation, the craft beer-making trend sweeping the country has (gratefully) not been lost on Utah. Here we introduce you to several locally made suds, from lagers and pilsners to stouts and porters.
by Mary Brown Malouf
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by Michaela Wagner
LIBATIONS by Pamela M. Olson
45
FAMILY by Julia Partain
Utah’s affordability and accessibility make it one of the most idyllic U.S. destinations for a family ski vacation. But even the best-laid plans can go awry when it comes to traveling with kids. Minimize the meltdowns with our mom-approved planning guide.
THE NEW
STANDARD
STRIVING FOR MORE NOT SETTLING FOR LESS. Rise to more. With over 7,300 acres of terrain, two resort villages and a lively historic town to explore, it’s time to follow your voice of determination, not reservation. Come experience The New Standard and discover what it means to never settle for less.
PA R K C I T Y M O U N TA I N.C O M the greatest snow on earth
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D Chris Pearson
letter from the editor
The Greatest Moments, Realized As I pondered “the Greatest,” the theme of this issue of Ski Utah magazine, I realized that many of my life’s best moments have occurred on snow.
T
here’s the college ski trip to Maine, which, along with being one of the greatest weeks of my life, was also the coldest I have ever been, before or since. Buying my first Utah season pass—at Park City Mountain for the 1996–97 season— also felt pretty great. Others have included my husband popping the question on Alta’s Sugarloaf lift, logging miles (and miles) in a power wedge behind my kids as they learned to ski, watching my son go big in freeskiing comps, powder skiing with my daughter and on and on. I first fell in love with skiing for the simple, like-flying joy of sliding on snow. But now I also believe that there are precious few things in life that bring people together, create a sense of personal well-being and allow all that’s heavy to fall away in the same way as skiing. Looking back on my life’s greatest moments, I can’t help wonder, if not for skiing, how different or rather, how many fewer greatest moments would I have had—or have yet to come—if I weren’t a skier? Thankfully, I don’t have to find out.
With this issue of Ski Utah magazine as your guide, I invite you to visit Utah this winter to make a few greatest moments of your own. The following pages are bursting with content penned by local, in-the-know writers, including: “Taking the Kids Skiing” (p. 45), Julia Partain’s practical advice for a fun-forall family ski trip; “Pizza, How We Love Thee” and “Oh My Heck! Yes, Utah Has Beer ” (p. 33 and p. 41, respectively) curated lists of Utah’s best pizza joints and microbreweries by two seasoned local foodies, Mary Malouf and Pam M. Olson; fun stuff to do in the snow sans the skis and boards from Michaela Wagner, titled “Sliding Outside the Lines” (p. 37); “A Weekend in the Mountains, Perfected,” (p. 57), Jeremy Pugh’s series of three-day dream itineraries for snowsliders of all ilk; plus our comprehensive Utah resort guide (p. 63), the season’s best gear, an after-hours glimpse at a Utah ski resort and much, much more. Consider this magazine your key to Utah’s wintertime kingdom. And The Greatest Snow on Earth®.
See you on the slopes!
Melissa Fields, Editor
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Stay Exquisite Enjoy effortless access from this slope-side resort to the renowned trails of Deer Valley Resort® and experience The Greatest Snow on Earth®, with attentive ski valets to manage your gear. From first tracks to nightcaps, The St. Regis Deer Valley will delight skiers and connoisseurs worldwide.
©2019 Marriott International, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Preferred Guest, St. Regis and their logos are the trademarks of Marriott International, Inc., or its affiliates.
The St. Regis Deer Valley 2300 Deer Valley Drive East Park City, UT 84060 t. +1 435 940 5700 marriott.com/slcxr
Stay exquisite at more than 40 St. Regis hotels and resorts worldwide. @stregishotels the greatest snow on earth
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Contributors
Freelance writer Michaela Wagner is a world-traveling, rock-climbing, snowboarding, hitchhiking, yoga-practicing adventurer who loves getting lost in the city and the woods, always with her camera in tow. Rolling outdoors, she’s constantly on the lookout for interesting stories to tell, including her article in this magazine about all of Utah’s wintertime off-slope things to do. And she knows Elvish.
Mary Malouf ran her own catering and food styling business until an editor asked if she could write about food, too; a question that led to work with D magazine, The Dallas Morning News, Cooking Light, several books and her current full-time gig, Salt Lake Magazine editor. For this issue, Malouf indulged her deep affection (and ours too!) for pizza.
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Venturing out to find Utah’s best beers and investigate new breweries is a tough job, but for this issue, Pamela M. Olson was a trooper. When she’s not out on the town—or the slopes—in pursuit of a great dish or new dining hotspot, Olson is a fisherwoman and professional florist. A native Utahn, she has seen the beer scene grow from an underground whisper with few microbrews on tap to the fermenting roar it is today.
Dawn patrol (aka before-sunrise backcountry skiing), the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Association and Canon cameras are a few of Chris Pearson’s favorite things. Which is fortunate because, as Ski Utah creative director for the past 18 years, he’s responsible for capturing The Greatest Snow on Earth® in its best light. This winter, when he’s not checking the weather, behind the lens or churning out stellar graphic design, you can find Pearson introducing skiing to his toddler son, C.J.
Freelance writer Sean Zimmerman-Wall found his way to Utah from the hills of Tennessee in 2005. Since then, he has been working fulltime as a ski patroller, backcountry guide and avalanche instructor—expertise he tapped into when he penned this issue’s behind-the-scenes glimpse of mountain operations at Snowbird and a story about 15 notto-be-missed Utah mountain biking routes. When not writing or on the mountain, keeping pace with his growing family is his greatest challenge and the most rewarding element of his life.
Photographer Jay Dash has been wandering the great state of Utah, with camera in hand, for the past decade. In the winter, Dash spends his time hiking the slopes of the Wasatch Mountains, hoping to catch first light or, as he did for this issue, capturing a before-dawn and after-sunset glimpse of what it takes to get his favorite Utah resort, Snowbird, ready for skiers and snowboarders each winter’s day.
Ten years ago Ski Utah Content Director and Idaho native Hailey Klotz traded Bogus Basin for the Wasatch Range when she moved to Utah to attend university. Now, when she’s not chasing powder—or sipping a well-earned après-ski cocktail—Klotz spends her time spreading the good word about Utah skiing via social media, supervising skiutah.com’s talented storytellers and serving as managing editor for this magazine.
Jeremy Pugh is a travel writer, essayist and author based in Salt Lake City, Utah and the author of the book 100 Things to Do in Salt Lake City Before You Die. Find him in Solitude’s Honeycomb Canyon or at verydynamite.com. In this issue, Pugh shows you how to make the most of precious mountain time for every type of skier—from powder hound to foodie.
Julia Partain, a Salt Lake City native, is a freelance writer and editor for several local and regional publications. When she isn’t writing about happenings in her hometown, you can find her checking off the gear list and hitting the slopes with her husband and kiddos—the perfect background for the piece she penned for this issue about how to take a family ski vacation without disowning your kids.
Amy Bertelsen is an illustrator, designer, Idaho native and graduate of the University of Utah. For the last five years, she’s traveled the world both near and far while running her own illustration and design company, Amy Ann Bespoke. Bertelsen recently landed in Milan, Italy where she is pursuing a Masters degree in Interior Architecture.
HONEYCOMB CAN YON / JAN UARY 21 2016 / 1:33PM
LIVE YOUR TRADITIONS Memories made here last a lifetime. At Solitude, 500 inches of annual snowfall means unspoiled and untracked snow all to yourselves. Our uncrowded terrain is yours to enjoy by ski, snowboard, or snow angel. This is the place where new and old traditions meet. It’s 1,200 acres of home to share with whoever loves the joy of gliding down a mountain. You’ll feel right at home here with way better views. Come ski with us. SOLITUDEMOUNTAIN.COM | @SOLITUDEMOUNTAI N
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Ski Utah Publisher Raelene Davis Editor Melissa Fields Managing Editor Hailey Klotz
D Austen Diamond
Creative Director Chris Pearson
? h a t U y Wh CHEERS Second only to skiing The Greatest Snow on Earth® is gathering after the lifts stop turning to recount and soak in the day’s adventures. In Utah this means everything from sipping wine while dipping crusty bread into a cheesy fondue or sharing a mountain of nachos over cold beers to roasting marshmallows with your kids or sipping a craft cocktail while listening to live music. The options for spending your après-ski time in Utah are as varied as the snowflakes falling from the sky.
of reasons a motherlode s e’ er th e il h W this winter, visit to Utah y down to a g in k a m r fo h the reasons w here we distill isputable truths: four, ind
TIME Did you know that direct flights from 98 cities across the country land at Salt Lake City International Airport every day? Or that the airport is within an hour’s drive of ten Utah resorts? True story. And then once you arrive, ground transportation options abound from buses and light rail to shuttles, ride shares and car rental companies. A Utah ski trip means fewer hassles, fewer headaches and much more time to enjoy The Greatest Snow on Earth®.
For trip planning tools, lodging options, details about all 15 Utah resorts, deals and more, visit skiutah.com and follow us on Facebook, Instagram, Pinterest and Twitter @skiutah. 14 skiutah.com
Contributing Photographers/Artists Abam Barker, Monique Beeley, Amy Bertelsen, Adam Clark, Lee Cohen, Matt Crawley, Jay Dash, Raelene Davis, Austen Diamond, Adam Finkle, John Howland, Rocko Menzyk, Chris Pearson, Tim Roberts, Sean Ryan, Mike Saemisch, Mike Schirf, Doug Wewer Advertising Sales Al Kenworthy (801) 359-4644 al@skiutah.com
POWDER You probably already know that Utah is home to The Greatest Snow on Earth®. What you may not be aware of, however, is how effortlessly all that light, fluffy powder sets the stage for you to experience your greatest stoke. Here your days can include bagging first chair, savoring the rush of the rope drop and hearing the subtle whoosh of your skis or board under your feet as you float down a slope. All of which combine to make it oh-sohard to wipe that smile off your face at the end of the day.
GIGGLES A child’s laughter is a sound every parent longs for and are precious moments that can be gratefully many on a Utah ski vacation. Just try not to feel the joy when, say, your seven-year-old makes a triumphant take-off down her first blue-square groomer. Or when following your kiddos along the whoop-de-doo trails through the trees. Or when you’re playing post-dinner card games back at the condo. Make a plan to come to Utah and look forward to one-of-a-kind connections, memories made and happy high-fives all around.
Contributing Writers/Editors Lexi Dowdall, Jane Gendron, Mary Malouf, Pamela M. Olson, Julia Partain, Jeremy Pugh, Virginia Rainey, Ted Scheffler, Natalie Taylor, Micheala Wagner, Sean Zimmerman-Wall, Tessa Woolf
SKI UTAH STAFF President—Nathan Rafferty VP Marketing—Raelene Davis Communications—Anelise Bergin Content Director—Hailey Klotz Creative Director—Chris Pearson Filmmaker—Tim Roberts Web/Interconnect—Luke Ratto Sales & Membership— Al Kenworthy Partnerships Manager—Keane Horner Marketing Manager—Ben Emery ©Ski Utah, Inc. 2019–20 All Rights Reserved. Printed in the USA by Quad Graphics. Ski Utah magazine is an annual publication of Ski Utah, Inc. 2749 E Parleys Way, Suite 310 Salt Lake City, UT 84109, USA skiutah.com On the Cover: Howard Stoddard gets some stormy powder at Snowbird. Photo: Chris Pearson
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Not All Ski-In, Ski-Out is Created Equal There are homes with ski-access and then there are homes with step-out-your-door & onto-a-run access. Homes so close to the slopes that even the sleepyhead gets first tracks. Homes that prioritize ski comfort with amenities like ski lockers & boot dryers that make gearing up easy. Where après starts when you declare it & a fully stocked kitchen makes re-fueling a breeze. And where the best view is every view — okay, it’s definitely from the slope-side hot tub. Not all ski-in ski-out lodging is created equal, and that’s why Natural Retreats believes in vacation rentals that elevate the standard.
Open The Door To More 16 skiutah.com
N AT U R A L R E T R E AT S . C O M / S K I • 8 8 8 . 4 5 1 . 0 1 5 6
FirstTracks
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Food + Drink Let it Snow Backstory Trip Hacks Profile
FREEZE FRAME s
Zeroing in on winter’s beauty “IN THE BEST OF
CONDITIONS, WHICH IS LESS THAN 25 DEGREES FAHRENHEIT, you have about two minutes to get the shot,” says snowflake photographer Doug Wewer. “They change and melt very quickly.” Originally from Pennsylvania,
receives an average of 150 inches of snow annually, that
Wewer has spent his life
he honed in on snow’s
working and playing outdoors.
up-close beauty.
“As a caretaker for the
“Nearly everything I’ve
Tuckerman Ravine shelters
learned about photographing
in New Hampshire,” he says,
snowflakes I learned on my
“I was always observing what
porch,” he says. Wewer captures
was happening with snow.”
the flakes on wood or glass
Other jobs he’s held include ski
with a customized photography
patroller, snow safety educator,
rig that’s always covered. “It’s
avalanche dog handler and
on its fifth iteration,” he says.
search and rescue volunteer.
“I’m constantly adjusting for
Wewer landed in Utah in 2000
lighting, camera holds and
to ski patrol at Snowbasin
backgrounds.”
during the 2002 Olympic
Of course, we had to ask: have
Winter Games. But it wasn’t
you ever seen two of the same?
until he moved to his current
“Even if there were two identical
home in Eden, Utah, which
snowflakes, I don’t think you could ever find them,” he says. Most people don’t get the opportunity to see a perfect snowflake up close; it’s a fleeting and rare experience. Check out Wewer’s images of these delicate moments in time at desertsnowphotography.com. —NATALIE TAYLOR
One of Doug Wewer’s very first attempts at capturing a single flake of The Greatest Snow on Earth®.
I was always observing what was happening with the snow.
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FirstTracks | food + drink
Russ
Kohler’s
“cheese recommends for every situation”
DAIRY RENAISSANCE
Toasted:
Juustoleipä, smothered with jam
s
Heber Valley Artisan Cheese serves up heritage and hard work in every wheel EVERY DAY EXCEPT
“There were so many factors
Cheddar:
national champion and Cascade
SUNDAY, Heber Valley Artisan
working against us,” recalls Kohler,
Raw and Queso Fresco Verde
Cheese (920 River Rd, Midway,
pointing to rising land values
runners-up in their respective
hebervalleyartisancheese.com, 435-654-
coupled with falling dairy prices.
categories. In the wake of these
0291) offers a taste of real farm life:
“We either had to abandon ship or
and other accolades, Heber
meeting the cows; watching the
do something different.” So, after
Valley Artisan Cheese is now also
robotic dairy in action; and—most
graduating from university, Kohler
available in Utah grocery stores
deliciously—savoring the house-
returned to the farm with his
including Harmons, Smith’s and
made cheddars, Juustoleipä
young family and, along with his
Whole Foods.
(Finnish style), Swiss and much
parents and sister, refocused the
more. Since 1929, the Kohler family
business on cheese in 2011. Now, in
Perhaps a line of ice cream. In
has worked the 125-acre Canyon
addition to the family, Heber Valley
the meantime, they’ll continue
View Farm in Midway. For much of
Artisan Cheese employs 24—plus
to welcome people to the farm,
that time, milk was king. But as the
150 cows, of course—to churn out
sharing their cheese, hard work
dairy market softened, Russ Kohler
3,000 pounds of product per week.
and passion—or as Kohler puts it,
and his father, Grant, decided they
And this cheese is legit. The
needed a new product to survive.
American Cheese Society crowned
The answer: artisan cheese.
the Kohlers’ Wasatch Back Jack
Snake Creek Sharp, a popular, two-year-old, naturally-aged cheddar
Dessert:
Vanilla Bean, paired with apples
What’s next for the Kohlers?
Up-and-coming: Honey Jalapeño Pecan
“helping others experience the farmer’s touch.” —JANE GENDRON
SLOPESIDE SIPPING Getting to know the “official wine of après” 2. Townie Rosé
label. OTC’s mod tasting room is
Perfect for summer outings, Townie
ideal locale for winemaking, but
open daily for both sipping and
Rosé offers fresh strawberry and
don’t tell that to Jason Morgan and
bottle sales—even on Sundays and
plum aromas and flavors—an ideal
Stephen MacKay, founders of Park
holidays, when Utah’s state-run
picnic and BBQ companion. ($18.99)
City’s Old Town Cellars (408 Main
liquor stores are closed. Following is
St, otcwines.com, 801-649-3759) who’ve
a trio of OTC’s more popular wines.
s
bottle and age under their own
UTAH MIGHT NOT SEEM like the
3
MOUNTAINOUS NORTHERN
worked out a clever way to carve
2
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1
3. Old Town Outlaws This bold red wine was blended,
out a niche as ski country vintners.
1. Mountain Town White
Rather than tending a vineyard
The grapes for this white wine
Bank Bordeaux in mind. Black and
themselves, Morgan and MacKay
come from Oregon and deliver
red fruit flavors make Outlaws an
purchase juice from grapes grown
good acidity and minerality,
excellent wine to pair with grilled,
mostly in Washington, Oregon and
with gorgeous white peach and
stewed and braised meats. ($46.99)
California that they then blend,
tangerine flavors. ($15.99)
according to OTC, with a classic Left
—TED SCHEFFLER
DINNER, AND THEN SOME
s
Four dining experiences that offer much more than what’s on the plate THERE’S CERTAINLY NO
leg of lamb are prepared in the
SHORTAGE OF EXCELLENT
lodge’s four stone fireplaces. But
DINING destinations in Utah’s ski
you can also trek in on snowshoes
country. But, on occasion, a top-
or relax under warm blankets
notch restaurant meal can also
during a horse-drawn sleigh ride
include a bit of adventure, such
to the restaurant. Your choice.
1
as embarking on a sunset tram
To reach the Mongolian-style
ride, a horse-drawn sleigh ride
Solitude Yurt (solitudemountain.
(snowbird.com/dining/the-summit,
starlit forest to a private yurt on
or a snowshoe tour through the
com, 801-895-4132) you’ll hike
801-933-2222), each with a unique
Pine Creek for the Creekside
woods. Let’s call it eating actively.
or snowshoe through a moonlit
theme, at the 11,000-foot-elevation
Yurt Dinner (waoutah.com/
Following are four such dining
forest. Don’t worry, it’s a short
Summit restaurant. To get there,
yurtdinner, 435-602-4022). Once
adventures where getting there is
hike; just enough activity to whet
guests enjoy a private ride on the
snuggled inside, you’ll be treated
half the fun.
your appetite for a memorable
Snowbird Tram. Choose from
to a four-course dinner that begins
four-course gourmet meal (with
the loaded buffet and set up in
with cheese fondue and typically
to the parking lot outside of Deer
a menu that changes throughout
front of the restaurant’s floor-to-
features tantalizing menu items
Valley Resort’s Empire Lodge for
the winter) cooked right on
ceiling glass windows, so you can
such as backcountry braised beef,
an evening at Fireside Dining
the spot by talented (and very
watch the sunset and moonrise,
winter squash soup and chocolate
(deervalley.com/firesidedining,
entertaining) Solitude chefs.
simultaneously.
panna cotta for dessert. For those
Sure, you could drive right up
435-649-1000), where gourmet
“”
Once each month—when the
European-style delicacies like
moon is full—Snowbird Resort
trek in Wasatch Mountain State
raclette, wild mushroom stew and
hosts its Full Moon Dinner
Park leads guests through a
1. Horse-drawn sleigh ride to Fireside Dining at Deer Valley Resort. 2. Charcuterie at the Solitude Yurt. 3. Roasting s’mores at Creekside Yurt. 4. Snowshoe to the Solitude Yurt to work up your appetite. 5. Your ride to the monthly full moon dinners at Snowbird.
in the mood, there’s also s’mores-
A guided half-mile snowshoe
making outside by the fire.
—TED SCHEFFLER
On occasion, a top-notch restaurant meal can also include a bit of adventure. 4
D John Howland
D Chris Pearson
2
3
D Chris Pearson
D Matt Crawley
D Chris Pearson
5
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FirstTracks | let it snow
KEEPING WINTER
WHITE –BY THE NUMBERS–
Instead of a wait-and-see approach to climate change, the Utah resorts are taking action in ways both large and small to make sure we keep on sliding for years to come. Here’s a glimpse at the data.
7
Utah ski resorts with public electric vehicle charging stations.
55
1
1,500
Percentage of Snowbird’s wintertime power needs met by an on-site natural gas cogeneration power plant.
10
How many resort sustainability managers received the National Ski Area Association’s Hero of Sustainability award in 2019, which went to Snowbird’s Hilary Arens (Alta’s Maura Olivos received this accolade in 2017).
Number of trees planted at Alta Ski Area in 2018.
7,300
0
Utah resorts that have gone plastic straw free.
Number of plastic single-use water bottles sold at Powder Mountain and Sundance.
Number of heavy-duty plastic trash bags that Sundance has avoided using per year since its housekeeping staff switched to reusable canvas trash bags.
2017
2020
2022
2030
2032
Single-use plastic bags were banned in Park City at Rite Aid, The Market at Park City and Fresh Market.
Year Alta has pledged, as part of the National Ski Areas Association’s Climate Challenge, to reduce carbon emissions by 20 percent.
Year Park City Municipal Corporation has pledged to achieve net zero carbon emissions across all city operations.
Vail Resorts’ goal for net zero carbon emissions, landfill waste and forest impact across its 19 resorts, including Park City Mountain.
Year Cottonwood Heights, Salt Lake City and Summit County have pledged to reduce their community carbon footprints to zero.
For more Utah resorts’ sustainability info, visit skiutah.com/sustainability. 20 skiutah.com
EXPERIENCE HIGH WEST DISTILLERY Utah’s first legal distillery since 1870. If you find yourself in Park City, please stop (or ski) by to visit our Saloon located at the bottom of Quit ‘N Time ski run, just off Main Street. Better yet, you ought to visit our world-class Distillery located on nearby Blue Sky Ranch in Wanship, Utah. It’s a celebration of whiskey and the American West. Sip Responsibly. © 2019 High West Distillery, Park City, UT. 46% alc. by vol.
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Your season pass to year-round savings.
Get $1,000 off your new solar energy system.* vivintsolar.com | 855.801.5947 *Cannot be combined with any other offers. Offer valid through April 30, 2020. Some exclusives may apply.
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Plan your Utah ski vacation at : GOHEBERVALLEY.COM/WINTERWONDERLAND the greatest snow on earth
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D Courtesy of Bob Smith family
FirstTracks | backstory
Smith’s newest 4D MAG goggle (right) has come a long way since Dr. Smith’s first pair (left). The original pair of goggles and all current Smith goggles are made in Utah.
VISIONARY TALE How one man’s foresight revolutionized the ski industry
Dr. Bob Smith circa 1965
s
HERE’S A FUN TOKEN OF TRIVIA for your next party: What do skiing and orthodontics have in common? Answer: The birth of modern ski goggles. True story! In 1965, Dr. Bob Smith, an orthodontist and dedicated skier, created the first pair of anti-fogging,
24 skiutah.com
double-lens ski goggles using his dental tools, foam and glue at his kitchen table in Utah. He tested prototypes during chest-deep powder runs and sold the goggles out of his van at Alta Ski Area and Sun Valley Resort during weekend ski trips. Needless to say, the doc’s goggles revolutionized the skiing industry and with that, Smith Optics was born. “Before Dr. Smith invented the double-lens ski goggle, the norm was single-lens goggles or sunglasses,” explains Eric Carlson, Smith Optics’ brand director. “His inspiration came from the invention of doublepane windows which had the same goal of keeping the cold air out and the warm air
in to balance the dew point, which controls fogging.” Dr. Smith’s double-lens design and breathable foam allowed skiers to double their time on the mountain regardless of the weather. “Skiers could stay out longer in worse conditions—or better conditions, for those seeking powder,” Carlson says. Flash forward 54 years, and the Smith Optics brand has expanded into helmets and eyewear for activities beyond the snow. Major milestones include the launch of the iconic “Slider” sport sunglasses and the V3 goggles in 1995, ski helmets in 2006, ChromaPop lenses in 2013 and bike helmets in 2014. “ChromaPop lens technology greatly enhances
color and clarity for your vision,” Carlson says, “while Koroyd helmet technology reduces head injuries during snow or bike crashes.” The past two years have seen further innovations, thanks to Smith’s new MAG series, a collection of goggles and sunglasses with an interchangeable lens system to optimize performance. Dr. Smith, who died in 2012, would certainly be thrilled. So what do orthodontics and skiing have in common? Quite a lot, it turns out. The next time you’re on the slopes, tip your helmet to the father of ski goggles, and take an extra powder run in honor of Dr. Bob. —TESSA WOOLF
COME FOR THE SKIING. STAY FOR THE SKIING. LEE COHEN SAM COHEN
S I N C E 19 3 8
the greatest snow on earth
25
FirstTracks | trip hacks
THE GOODS, DELIVERED TO YOUR DOOR D Mike Schirf
Why do the runaround when you can order groceries, wine, skis and more on demand? 1
Utah State Liquor stores which are closed on Sundays and holidays. Shop the Grocery Girls (Park City/ Deer Valley/Canyons, thegrocerygirls. com, 866-278-2254) convenient online checklists for items ranging from pet food and breakfast packages to flower arrangements and saké. Lee’s Marketplace (leesmarketplace.com) offers everything but the beer in their
3
North Ogden or Heber City stores for delivery. If you want them to put the groceries away, they’ll work with you to make arrangements with your lodging near Snowbasin,
s
Powder Mountain, Nordic Valley, SKI, EAT, SLEEP. REPEAT.
Park City and Deer Valley.
vacation time is for, right? So why
Gear Up
spend hours shopping for food and
Not into lugging your ski gear
gear? Tap into the ease of these
along on vacation? Want to try
bespoke services, each designed to
the latest equipment, just for
2
4
fun? Ski Butlers (Park City/Alta/
Late Night Cravings
Snowbird/Sundance/Brighton/
There’s no lack of pizza/Grubhub/
Stock the Fridge
Solitude, skibutlers.com, 877-754-
UberEats delivery options near all
deliver the goods to your door.
Park City Grocery Express
7754), Skis on the Run (Park City/
of Utah’s winter resorts, but when
(Park City/Deer Valley,
Alta/Snowbird/Sundance/Brighton/
that post-dinner craving hits, you
parkcitygroceryexpress.com,
Solitude, skisontherun.com, 888-
gotta have COOKIES! Preferably
435-729-0090) goes beyond the
488-0744), Rent Skis (Park City,
still warm from the oven. Try Chip
boundaries—extending its reach to
rentskis.com, 970-754-0449) and
(Salt Lake/Provo, chipcookies.co)
artisan purveyors such as Aquarius
Elite Ski Delivery (Park City,
for big, soft chocolate chip cookies
Seafood and Beltex Meats in Salt
eliteskidelivery.com, 855-346-0945)
until 2 a.m. on weekends. Or check
Lake City and specialty bakeries
are standing by to take your rental
out Crumbl’s (Salt Lake/Provo/
such as Auntie Em’s and Windy
orders; deliver skis, snowboards,
Ogden/Logan, crumblcookies.com)
Ridge in Park City. Got a favorite?
boots, etc., to your door; make
rotating menu of seriously rich
Just ask. They’ll deliver and put
adjustments; switch out skis
specialty cookies, delivered fresh
the groceries away—including
depending on conditions; and pick
from the oven until midnight.
wine and spirits from well-stocked
them up at the end of your stay.
26 skiutah.com
D Mike Schirf
That’s what your precious winter
—VIRGINIA RAINEY
1. Save time (and relax) while having rental equipment delivered to your door. 2. Order online before you arrive in Utah so your condo or rental home is stocked when you walk in the door. 3. Fresh-from-the-oven cookies with the push of a button. They’ll even deliver the milk! 4. Gear experts can fit you for gear in the comfort of your rental home or hotel room.
the greatest snow on earth
27
FirstTracks | profile
WHERE CARTOGRAPHY AND ART MEET
JIM NIEHUES GAZES AT
and trail maps. Brown offered
the Alta Ski Area trail map sign
Niehues the opportunity to paint
for a moment before turning
the Mary Jane Territory at Winter
to snap a photo of one of Alta’s
Park Resort in Colorado. To ensure
most prominent landmarks,
the resort’s management was
Devil’s Castle. More than 25
happy with the illustration, Brown
years ago, Niehues painted this
asked Niehues to leave his work
craggy moraine along with the
unsigned until Brown had a
rest of Alta’s terrain and 116 runs,
chance to confess to his employers
capturing the Little Cottonwood
that it had actually been painted
Canyon resort in his distinctive
by Niehues. Winter Park accepted
style. He admits tackling Alta early
the map and Niehues went on to
on in his career was a challenge.
paint revisions of Brown’s older trail
But since doing so, he’s painted 194
maps and then eventually struck
more trail maps for ski areas both
out on his own.
big and small, and his work has
Each trail map Niehues paints
become as endemic to skiing as
begins with him climbing into an
GORE-TEX and Stein Eriksen.
airplane to take aerial photos of
Niehues’s 30-year career as
a resort, which he admits is his
a trail map illustrator began
favorite part of the process. This
partly by chance. While looking
step also helps him understand
for work in the Denver area, he
the features and terrain as he
was approached by Bill Brown, a
manipulates multiple aspects
painter who worked on landscapes
and cardinal directions to fit the mountain into one or two perspectives. “It’s very important
“”
Jim Niehues in his studio.
It ’s very impor tant to depic t the mount ain at a point when shado ws are cast across the slopes .
to depict the mountain at a point
ranges, perspectives and resorts
when shadows are cast across the
into one, digestible view.
slopes,” he says. “I usually find that
Though Niehues, now 73,
the best time of day is from 10 a.m.
contemplates retiring, he’s
to 2 p.m.”
apparently not done yet. At press
When asked about which resort
time he was working on maps for
he most enjoyed painting, Niehues
Oregon’s Mt. Bachelor, Cardrona
relays, “I would say Snowbird
in New Zealand and a remake for
because of the backdrop. It just has
Sun Peaks in British Columbia.
dynamicism to it in terms of the
“I announced several years ago
composition. Alta is right in there,
that I was retired, and that sure
too.” He says he also really enjoyed
didn’t last long,” he laughs. Maybe
painting a regional map depicting
I’ll retire next year. It’s not really a
all the Utah resorts, which
job, it’s a passion.” For more about
presented the heady challenge
Niehues, visit skiutah.com/jim.
of combining multiple mountain
28 skiutah.com
D Tim Roberts
s
Mapping out the unique career path of skiing’s go-to illustrator
—LEXI DOWDALL
Jim Niehues’s iconic body of work is now available in James Niehues: The Man Behind the Map. Containing nearly 200 maps, the book can be purchased at jamesniehues.com.
Perfect, Legendary Experiences. Stein Collection offers four distinct Deer Valley hotels to suit your style. Providing the finest luxury lodging, award-winning dining, and Five-Star spa services, we’ll ensure your stay is a truly personalized experience. For those who seek the best, there's only Stein.
D EER V ALLEY
D E E R VA L L E Y
the greatest snow on earth 29 800.453.1302 | www.steincollection.com | reservations@steincollection.com park city, utah
30 skiutah.com
sundanceresort.com
Perfect pairing. AWARD-WINNING RESTAURANTS AND WORLD-CLASS SKIING
YOUR COMPLETE GUIDE TO PARK CITY AREA DINING:
ParkCityRestaurants.com
the greatest snow on earth
31
ENGAGING Immerse yourself in the relaxed luxury of Red Ledges – year round! There are countless ways to engage with nature, with neighbors, and with the things you love to do at Red Ledges – like ski The Greatest Snow on Earth®! Our members enjoy privileged access to two slope-side lodges at Deer Valley Resort just 15 minutes away. And, just 30 minutes away Park City Mountain’s 7,300 acres or the rugged beauty of Sundance Mountain Resort await. So hit the slopes! Then hit the ball on one of our two Jack Nicklaus Signature golf courses, or on our tennis and pickleball courts. Hit the trails on a guided snowshoe hike, bike ride, or horseback ride. Hit the pool and have a blast with the kids on our 144-foot pool slide. Or, simply relax by the fire after dinner with friends at the Clubhouse. At Red Ledges, neighbors become friends and activities become passions, and the pace of life is as vibrant or relaxed as you’d like – all year round. Learn more at RedLedges.com or call 877.733.5334 and visit to experience the Red Ledges lifestyle.
Homesites from $175K to $1M
32 skiutah.com
Homes from $775K to $6M
GOOD EATS
PIZZA, HOW WE LOVE THEE A baker’s dozen of our favorite slices, from grab-and-go to high-brow
F
by Mary Malouf
1
The owners of Pizza Nono (925 E. 900 South, SLC, pizzanono-slc.com, 385-444-
or the average
bites as satisfying as the classic
person, an hour
combo of freshly baked dough,
of downhill skiing
marinara and mozzarella cheese
stuffed crust or gimmicks (though
burns 440 calories,
after a day on the slopes. To help
they do have a gluten-free crust),
give or take. The average slice
you realize this match made in
just wood-fired pizza made with
of pizza provides 265 calories.
heaven, here we’ve gathered a
premium, fresh ingredients.
Therefore skiing and pizza are
list of our most beloved pizza
Choose from beer or soft drinks to
meant to go together—obviously!
purveyors, all conveniently
accompany your pie, or the locally
But, seriously, there are not many
located at or nearby the slopes.
made Garwoods ginger beer.
3530) have simple goals. Quality.
D Chris Pearson
Artisanal. Traditional. There’s no
the greatest snow on earth
33
GOOD EATS
Salt Lake City Area
2
The exterior of the Stone
pull-aparts. Vegan and gluten-free pies are also available; call ahead for keto pies.
Haus at Solitude (12000 E.
Big Cottonwood Canyon Rd, soli tudemountain.com, 801-536-5767) is completely charming—you want to go in just because of the gray
6
3
The Vera Pizza Napoletana (VPN) was established
in Napoli, Italy, in 1984 by Si-
stone walls and the grass-topped
gnore Pace. Its sole purpose
roof. Pizza is the star of the menu
is to protect the integrity
here and you can create your own,
of the pizza-making
but don’t overlook the sandwiches
tradition as it began in
and other menu items. All can be
Napoli over 200 years
ordered to go, and there’s also a
ago and requires that
keto-friendly menu and ice cream.
members use only specific raw ingredi-
3
2
your table and the famous cheesy
ents and their hands It’s the end of the day; time
to create the pizza
to stop the downhill rush
dough and that it
(until tomorrow), slow down and
be cooked directly
savor the moment. Pizza around
on the surface of a
the fireplace is perfect and the
pizza oven fueled
Wildflower (9121 Snowbird Center
solely by wood.
Dr, snowbird.com, 801-933-2230) is
Pizza at Settebello
the place, a hangout as well as
(260 S. 200 West,
a restaurant. Order the Bianca
settebello.net, 801-
because you get a pile of arugula
322-3556) is all that.
4
on top of the melted mozz, so it’s a salad and entrée in one. Then settle in to tell your tales of the day.
4
Park City Area
kids (or just adults who act like
7
children) for a pie that’s both tasty
just a snowball’s throw
and easy on the wallet, stop into
away from Park City’s icon-
the unassuming Big Apple Pizza
ic Town Lift. There you’ll find
(2939 E. 3300 South, 801-485-4534).
American-style, cracker-crust
Menu standouts include the Cali-
pizza with a selection of classic
fornia veggie and the blue buffalo
toppings. Order by the slice or a
chicken pies. For those who are
whole pie. Perhaps reassuring to
wheat averse, Big Apple now offers
non-Utahns is the note on the bev-
a gluten-free crust.
erage list: “everchanging variety of
If you’re looking for somewhere to take your rowdy
5
Davanza’s (690 Park Ave, davan
zas.com, 435-649-2222) is
6
Utah and full-strength beer and
5
glasses of wine available.” This Salt Lake staple has several locations, but the
original The Pie (1320 E. 200 South, thepie.com, 801-582-5700) is still the best: a downstairs, cave-like
8
The official name is Maxwell’s East Coast Eatery
(1456 Newpark Blvd, maxwellsece.
restaurant with graffiti-covered
com, 435-647-0304) and its roots
walls, pizzas nearly bigger than
harken back to Little Italy. And so
34 skiutah.com
7
13
it comes as little surprise that what they most often serve here is New York style with a thin crust. Try a
12
11
Sometimes it’s hard to find pizza by the slice—it’s mainly
a New York thing, where people
pie called The Fat Kid topped with
eat and walk at the same time. But
pepperoni, spinach and ricotta. At
slices are just one of the conve-
night on weekends, things heat
niences at Lucky Slice (Logan/
up with the wine and music. (Maxwell’s can also be found in downtown Salt Lake City.)
Ogden/Clearfield/Powder Mountain, theluckyslice.com, 801-627-2229). You can order whole pies or slices. They also offer delivery, dine-in or take-
9
out, and the menu includes a list of The black truffle
original pies like the Potato-Pesto
and fontina cheese
Pie or traditional ones, as well as a
pizza on J&G Grill’s
complete vegan menu.
(St. Regis Deer Valley, 2300 Deer Valley Dr E, marriott.com, 435-940-
11
5760) bar menu is the height of “gourmet” pizza, a term coined in the ’80’s when Spago
10
D 2-11 Adam Finkle, 12-13 Mike Saemisch
8
It’s definitely high altitude at 11,307 feet, but is cen-
trally located at Brian Head’s Giant Steps base area. At Pizano’s (Brian
Puck topped a
Head Resort, pizanospizzeria.com,
pizza with smoked
435-677-3341) you can build your
salmon and caviar.
own pizza or order from a specialty
The menu also fea-
pie menu that pays homage to
tures a pizza of the
pizza hot-spots—a Brooklyn Trolley
day, chef’s choice.
Dodger pie, a Chicago Meat Lover
And of course there
pie, a Sicilian pie and a SoCal pie.
are sips from the
Add to that a list of subs, calzones,
award-winning wine
salads and desserts. And you don’t
cellar to choose from.
want to miss the beer.
Slackwater (1895 Washington Blvd,
slackwaterpizzeria.com, 801-
9
12
Chef Wolfgang
Ogden Area
10
Cedar City Area
13
At Cedar City’s Centro Woodfired Pizza (50 W.
Center St, centropizzeria.com, 435867-8123, just 40 minutes from Brian Head), the light-as-air dough is
topped with housemade toma-
399-0637) has been broadening
to sauce, local vegetables and
the beer and pizza vocabulary in
high-quality cheeses and then
Ogden since 2011. For example, the
baked over a wood fire at 800
Fish Taco pie has a green goddess
degrees, giving the crust that
base topped with seasoned tilapia,
traditional “leopard spot” char
black bean corn salsa and a three-
characteristic of Italian pizza. Rec-
cheese blend. It’s finished with
ommendation: it’s worth it to eat it
fresh coleslaw, pico de gallo, cilan-
fresh at the restaurant.
tro, a drizzle of chimichurri sauce and a lime wedge garnish. But if you are a little nervous about straying so far from pizza orthodoxy, tamer options are available.
the greatest snow on earth
35
WE
LIVE Woodward Park City is a world-class, year-round action sports destination in one of the greatest outdoor regions in the world. For passionate action sports athletes of all ages and abilities to play and train everyday, 365 days and nights a year. / UTA H’S N EWES T R ES OR T
THIS
WOODWARDPARKCITY.COM
36 skiutah.com
OFF-PISTE
SLIDING OUTSIDE THE LINES Snowy fun sans the skis, snowboard and chairlift
D
by Michaela Wagner ownhill skiing and
of other ways to get out on The
snowboarding may
Greatest Snow on Earth®, sans-
be the undisputed
the chairlift, from snowshoeing
champions of
and ice skating to tubing and
Utah’s winter recreation scene. But
snowmobiling, and dozens more
our fair state also boasts plenty
diversions in between.
above: Getting out there the old-fashioned way via dogsled. below: Snowshoeing is great fun and a great workout! left: Hundreds of kilometers of Nordic trails can be found throughout Utah.
By Your Own Steam NORDIC SKIING AND SNOWSHOEING In Park City, the sprawling
City Golf Course and beyond to the
Round Valley Open Space
town’s iconic Osguthorpe Barn. In
(mountaintrails.org) offers 25
nearby Midway, follow the tracks
km of groomed, multiuse trails
of former, current and future
catering to cross-country skiers,
Olympians on 31 km of trails at
snowshoers, hikers and fat-
Soldier Hollow (utaholympiclegacy.
tire bikers alike, free of charge.
org), home of the 2002 Olympic
The town’s White Pine Nordic
Winter Games biathlon and Nordic
Center (whitepinetouring.com)
skiing events. The staff at the Nordic Center at Solitude (solitudemountain.com) groom 20 km of skate and classic track and maintain 10 km of snowshoe trails. At the Sundance Nordic Center (sundanceresort.com)
D Chris Pearson
grooms 20 km of track at the Park
the groomed cross-country (15 km)
skiing trails for all ability levels at
around Cedar Breaks National
and snowshoeing (10 km) trails cut
Snowbasin (snowbasin.com). Hit
Monument, Bryce Canyon
through pristine backcountry with
the Grizzly Center for rentals.
National Park (nps.gov) and Dixie
views of majestic Mt. Timpanogos
Near the state’s southern
National Forest (fs.usda.gov) to
and the frozen Stewart Falls. Staff
resorts—Brian Head and Eagle
discover frosted hoodoos and
groom and maintain 26 km of
Point—venture off the beaten
mighty forests in an otherworldly
skating and classic cross-country
path and onto the trails in and
realm of red rock and ice.
the greatest snow on earth
37
OFF-PISTE
On the Rocks SKATING AND THE ICE CASTLES In Kearns near Salt Lake City, drop in for a lesson or join a public skate
D Austen Diamond
session on the “Fastest Ice on Earth” at the 400-meter Olympic Oval (utaholympiclegacy.org) or enjoy an experience reminiscent of wintertime skating in New York City at the Gallivan Center (thegallivancenter.com) where families and couples whirl around the ice surrounded by streaming lights and glittering trees in downtown Salt Lake City. Conveniently nestled in the village below Park City Mountain’s
The Midway Ice Rink
wintry attraction, the Midway Ice
slopes at its Town Base area, the
(midwaycityut.org), the largest
Castles (icecastles.com/midway)
picturesque Resort Center Ice
outdoor rink in the state, is worth
feel like something out of a fairy
Rink (parkcityicerink.com) allows
the short trip from Park City for
tale. Equally fantastical by day
visitors to skate with holiday
anyone seeking small-town charm
or night, when thousands of
ambiance and upbeat music while
and stellar mountain views.
multicolored LED lights illuminate
Park City Ice Arena (parkcity.org)
The skating rink isn’t the only icy
the structures, the Ice Castles are
offers year-round fun indoors with
attraction you’ll find in charming
a perfect family outing and every
both instruction and free skate.
Midway. The town’s most popular
photographer’s dream.
Gravity at Work SNOW TUBING For next-level thrills, zip down Soldier Hollow’s (utaholympiclegacy.org) 1,200foot sliding lanes, the longest in the state. Or add a twist to the traditional trajectory by spinning down the curved routes at Wasatch Parc (wasatchparc.com) located nearby Nordic Valley. Down south, descend the 100-foot vertical drop of the veritable frozen water slide at Giant Steps or 75-foot vertical plunge at Navajo Tubing Park, both located at Brian Head (brianhead.com).
38 skiutah.com
above: Ice skating is an activity suitable for almost all ages. left: Giggles are guaranteed with snow tubing. upper right: Go farther with a snowmobiling tour in the backcountry. below: The Midway Ice Castles are an unforgettable experience.
Along for the Ride SNOWMOBILING AND DOGSLEDDING While numerous snowmobiling outfits operate throughout the state (visit the skiutah.com activities page), three standouts include Lofty Peaks guided snowmobile tours at Snowbird, which begin with a ride on the Aerial Tram to the 11,000-foot Hidden Peak summit followed by a chairlift descent into Mineral Basin for unforgettable snowmobiling
Cedar Mountain Snowmobile
(allseasonsadventures.com)
and phenomenal views on the
Complex’s (visitcedarcity.com)
and Destination Sports and
resort’s backside (loftypeaks.
trails grant access to stunning
Adventures (destinationsports.com)
com). In the Uinta Mountains
views of Cedar Breaks National
in Park City all have experienced
outside of Park City, 200 miles of
Monument, the Virgin River Valley
mushers and teams of gorgeous
unbelievable backcountry riding
and Zion National Park.
dogs ready to take you along
and groomed trails are right off
For a unique experience the
for the ride. Wagging tails and
your doorstep at Daniels Summit
whole family can enjoy, hitch a
plentiful licks are all the proof
Lodge (danielssummit.com). One
ride with man’s best friend. Luna
you need that dogs love dashing
of the most scenic and exciting
Lobos Dog Sledding (lunalobos.
through the snow just as much as
snowmobile areas in the country.
com), All Seasons Adventures
their people do..
Stoking the
Stoke at parleys summit
GET READY. Where Gorgoza Tubing Park once resided at Park City’s Parleys Summit is now a bigger, badder and much more multifaceted place to play: Woodward Park City (campwoodward.com), a year-round hub of progressive action sports experiences. Winter outdoor activities there include lift-accessed day and night skiing and snowboarding with a terrain park and 10 lanes for snow tubing. For more Woodward 411, turn to page 79.
the greatest snow on earth
39
AFTER 30 YEARS OF INNOVATION, HESTRA PROUDLY PRESENTS:
THE SAME OLD GLOVE!
SUSTAINABLE DESIGN GETS BETTER WITH TIME. THE NEW PHILIPPE RAOUX. #SAMEOLDGLOVES #HESTRAGLOVES
40 skiutah.com
hestragloves.com
LIBATIONS
OH MY HECK! YES, UTAH HAS BEER
Rye Cream
Citra KÖlsch
Sour Power
Fisher Beer
Hefeweizen
Uncle Whippie’s ESB
Seldom Seen Pale Ale
Porter
Mild Child
Nitro Coffee Stout
A. Fisher Brewery roundup
A guide to where and how to sip Utah-made suds by Pamela M. Olson photos by Austen Diamond
J
ust as each ski resort
still offer go-to brews like Full
But for you, dear reader, we’ve
family-friendly establishments
in Utah has its own
Suspension Pale Ale, Polygamy
done our best. For this Utah pub
where kiddos are welcome and
perks and personality,
Porter and Trader IPA to devout
guide, we’ve narrowed it down
tasty food is served, come-as-
each of Utah’s 29
beer pilgrims. But from red rock
to those in or on the way to one
you-are tap rooms and those
breweries (with more
country to gritty industrial parks,
of our ski towns across the state,
offering connoisseur-level brews
in the works) has its own style
veteran and upstart brewers
called out not-to-be-missed
you won’t find anywhere else.
and swagger. Stalwarts like
alike are producing new beers so
brews at each locale and divvied
Map your crawl, toast to pow and
Squatters, Wasatch and Uinta
often, it’s a challenge to keep up.
them up into three categories:
realize brewvana.
the greatest snow on earth
41
LIBATIONS
Family Friendly
Red Rock Brewery
Highland Dr, SLC, wasatchbeers.com
Three locations in SLC (including
A Park City Main Street mecca
the Beer Store) and in Park City
with a second pub in the Sugar
Bohemian Brewery
redrockbrewery.com
House neighborhood; both large
94 E. Fort Union Blvd, Midvale
A locals’ favorite where it’s always
spaces that easily handle a crowd.
bohemianbrewery.com
hoppin’. Creative comfort fare,
Reasonably priced, great burgers
Drive straight out the mouth of
large menu, wood-fired pizzas.
and easygoing beers. Beer: First
Big Cottonwood Canyon to this
Beer: If available, the 20th Anniver-
One Down Winter Warmer Ale
Bavarian-style brewhouse. Small-
sary Imperial Red Ale
batch, carefully crafted lagers paired with old-world European
Rooster’s
fare like pierogi and stroganoff.
253 25th St, Ogden
Beer: 1842 Czech Pilsener Lager
roostersbrewingco.com
No Frills Tap Rooms
Get your ticket to sip with Salt Lake City’s Brewery Pass. These one-, three- or 90-day passes download to your phone and allow a $5 credit to spend on beer, food or merchandise at 12 Salt Lake City breweries and brewpubs. (Enough for one pint or two samples at most of the breweries.) For details, go to visitsaltlake.com.
On Historic 25th Street, where
A. Fisher Brewing Co
Desert Edge
most of O-town’s cool businesses
320 W. 800 South, SLC, fisherbeer.com
273 Trolley Square, SLC
reside. After skiing one of Ogden
Originally founded in Utah in 1884,
desertedgebrewery.com
Valley’s three resorts, drop down
now a revived pioneer-era brand.
Like an old friend, this reliable
for a casual atmosphere and all
This is a bona fide hangout, with
place never changes, serving
the Chocolate Stout you can drink.
a thriving bicycle and party scene,
RoHa Brewing Project
tasty dishes with speedy service
New: B Street Tap Room
sports on TV, beers constantly
30 E. Kensington Ave, SLC
changing and food trucks on rota-
rohabrewing.com
tion. Beer: Cashmere Kölsch
Tiny tap room, worth the trip to
for decades. Beer is on the menu, though not the star. Dish: French
UTOG
Onion Soup. Beer: Pub Pils
2331 Grant Ave, Ogden
South Salt Lake. Belly up after a
utogbrewing.com
Policy Kings Brewery
ski day because, in the brewery’s
Squatters
The first winter for this new brew-
223 N. 100 West, Cedar City
own words, they have a “passion
SLC, Park City and airport locations
pub, and it’s off to a good start.
policykingsbrewery.com
for beer and dedication to the craft
squatters.com
Limited beer selection, but they’re
Rejoice! Skiers heading to Brian
balanced with a craving for a great
No visit to Utah is complete with-
ramping up. Cool modern space,
Head and Eagle Point now have
life along with adventure—powder,
out a visit to Squatters, which was
excellent wings, fish & chips and
a brewery in nearby Cedar City.
singletrack and rivers.” Beer:
named the offical beer of Ski Utah.
views of Ben Lomond Peak.
Couple Deandre and Sara Ridgel
Kensington Grand Saison
Beautiful historic space (SLC), clas-
Beer: Session IPA
turned their passion for homebrewing into a business and have
SaltFire Brewing Company
Beer: Outer Darkness Russian
Wasatch Brew Pub
created a community hub.
2199 S. West Temple, SLC
Imperial Stout
250 Main St, Park City and 2110 S.
Beer: Policy Kings IPA
sic beers, great pub fare.
saltfirebrewing.com High point beers only (nothing on tap, no samples) and hula hoops. What else do you need? How about yoga followed by beer mimosas? Beer: Dirty Chai Stout Toasted Barrel Brewing 412 W. 600 North, SLC toastedbarrelbrewery.com Dedicated brewers specializing in barrel-aged sours, kettle sours and balanced IPAs. A bit out of the way, but worth a pop-in. Beer: Quad Belgian Style Quadruple Ale Uinta Brewing Co. 1722 S. Fremont Drive, SLC, uintabrewing.com This WAY-west side Salt Lake City joint does have great food, but no kiddos allowed. Nicely done grub, beers so good they’re a part of the Utah active lifestyle. 100 percent wind and solar powered. Beer: 801 Pilsner, Wyld Simcoe Session Ale
42 skiutah.com
Serious Beer, Serious Practices
is the “proper beer,” but their wide lineup is easily navigable using their ingenious flavor profile charts to determine if you like more
Epic Brewing
yeasty and tropical flavors or a
825 S. State Street, SLC
more hoppy beer with citrus notes.
epicbrewing.com
Beer: Salted Caramel Porter
Go big or go home. Specializing in high alcohol-content beer,
Shades Brewing
available in 22-oz. bottles. At the
154 W. Utopia Ave, SLC
newly expanded tasting room,
shadesofpale.com
sample current selections on tap
In a location that feels under-
paired with paninis. Now offering a
ground (entrance by the loading
4 percent Utah session beer. Beer:
dock), you’ll find hazy, “I don’t
Brainless Belgian-Style Golden
think we own a filter” beers, where
top: Good times and great beer at Proper Brewing Co. above: A server pulling a pint from the taps at Squatters Brew Pub. above right: Many Utah breweries offer taster-size servings of their on-tap beers. below left: Both locals and visitors love the family-friendly vibe at Squatters Brew Pub.
you’re encouraged to “find your Kiitos Brewing
shade.” Beer: the award-winning
608 W. 700 South, SLC
Kveik Golden Sour Ale, brewed
kiitosbrewing.com
with an ancient yeast
A warehouse room in the hipster Granary District with a welcom-
Talisman Brewing Company
ing lineup of pinball machines
1258 Gibson Ave, Ogden
and beers that make one feel like
talismanbrewingco.com
a kid in a candy shop. Flavors of
Lots of love goes into every batch
milkshake, coconut and vanilla nut.
at this 12th Street location, where
Efficient water system, recyclable
fans can hang for occasional food
cans only. Beer: Coffee Cream Ale
truck fare. Bottle store only. Check the online schedule for tours, tast-
Level Crossing
ings and beer yoga. Beer: Uplifted
2496 S. West Temple, SLC
Scottish Ale
levelcrossingbrewing.com A delightful bright spot in South
T.F. Brewing
Salt Lake, navigating the first year
936 S. 300 West, SLC
on the scene. Passionate owner-
tfbrewing.com
ship, skilled brewer, knowledge-
Gorgeous, modern space with a
able staff. Beer: The flagship, a rare
clean and beautiful tap and menu
Kentucky Common. Also Coffee
system: the beers are numbered,
Kolsch … breakfast brew anyone?
1 to 13 from light to dark and the pulls themselves are stained wood,
Proper Brewing Co.
in shades light to dark, making it
857 Main Street, SLC
easy to plan an afternoon or eve-
properbrewingco.com
ning of progressive tastings.
Here the English-style golden ale
Beer: Ethereal Leichte Weisse
SKI COUNTRY DISTILLERS BREWERS AREN’T THE ONLY LIBATION ARTISTS THRIVING IN THE BEEHIVE STATE; several distillers dot the map here, as well, including these three that are in convenient proximity to the slopes. High West Distillery (highwest.com) began Utah’s craft booze movement in 2006 when it opened the world’s first ski-in/ski- out gastrodistillery near Park City’s Town lift. Since then, High West has expanded to its Wanship location (16 miles from Park City) where you can have a bite in the café and take a tour to check out the 1,600-gallon copper still. High West even has a location at the SLC airport. Or book a multicourse dinner at High West’s Nelson
Cottage, offering unique whiskey pairing dinners. Also in Park City is Alpine Distilling (alpinedistilling.com), makers of a variety of awardwinning spirits including vodka, gin, whiskey and liqueur. You can drop in for a drink anytime at the distillery’s Main Street tavern, the Alpine Pie Bar. Or take a deeper dive by sampling the entire Alpine Distillery portfolio with a 30-minute tasting at Alpine’s Silver Creek–area distillery. Tucked into a gentrifying area of Salt Lake is Beehive Distilling (beehivedistilling. com). There you can book a tour that includes a tasting of the distiller’s original Jack Rabbit gin, its mellow barrel reserve gin and its latest spirit, an organic vodka. (While you’re there, check out Salt Fire Brewing, Shades Brewing and several others located just down the street.)
the greatest snow on earth
43
WE FOCUS ON THE PRICE. YOU FOCUS ON THE FUN.
FREE ONLINE ORDER PICKUP | 5 MIN FROM SLC AIRPORT | LOW PRICE GUAR ANTEE | FREE SKI MOUNTING | BEST PRICED RENTALS
SHOP ONLINE AND IN STORE SALT LAKE CITY
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Park City - 30 min
Alta | Snowbird - 30 min
Snowbasin- 30 min
Sundance - 20 min
L E V E L N I N E S P O R T S . C O M 44 skiutah.com
FAMILY
TAKING THE KIDS SKIING Tips and tricks for planning a stress-free winter getaway by Julia Partain illustrations by Amy Bertelsen
W
e get it. Family
or she makes the transition from
quality time can outnumber the
vacations
wedge turns to parallel skiing—
time-outs. Following are a few
can be both
and relentlessly hard: someone
pointers for making your family’s
rewarding—
forgets their gloves, ski boots, to
ski vacation to Utah as hassle-
like when your son or daughter
put on sunscreen, and on and
free and memorable as it can be
smiles up at you proudly as he
on. But with a little planning, the
before you even leave home.
the greatest snow on earth
45
FAMILY (canyontransport.com) and The Transportation Network (thetransportationnetwork.com). One major perk of staying in ski-in/ski-out lodging is, of course, you are already at the mountain. But many slopeside lodges also offer shuttle transportation for guests, often as a free service. Be sure to ask about shuttle options at your hotel or condo and plan accordingly. Staying in the city? Utah Transit Authority (rideuta.com) provides public bus, light rail and commuter rail transportation throughout Ogden, Park City, Salt Lake City and the eight nearby ski resorts. If Park City is your basecamp, you can enjoy a free citywide bus system (parkcity.org) that services historic Main Street,
Packing
Deer Valley, Park City Mountain and all points in between.
First things first. Packing
And don’t forget to throw a
begins long before you put
daypack into your luggage for
your gear in the suitcase.
carrying things like extra socks
Make a list of the necessities for
and gloves, snacks, sunscreen,
and childcare as soon as you
each member of your tribe: both
Chapstick, hand warmers and
know your travel plans; both
lightweight and heavier layers
beanies to have while you’re on
tend to book out, especially on
(weather conditions are always
the mountain.
weekends and holiday weeks. Fill
changing), goggles, ski jacket and
Getting Around
out the forms online or print and
(both have a nasty habit of getting
are serviced by efficient public
City Mountain and Snowbird all
wet or lost), a beanie to wear
transit systems, Uber and
operate on-site, state-licensed
off-piste, snow boots for walking
Lyft, making renting a car an
daycare for children as young
around or playing in the snow and
unnecessary hassle. Convenient,
as six weeks. High Altitude
a swimsuit for some well-deserved
round-the-clock service from
Kids (hakutah.com) in Eden
hot tub soaking and swimming.
Salt Lake City International
provides childcare services
After you’ve checked everything
Airport to the resorts is offered by
in the Snowbasin/Powder
off your list, have your kids try on
several local shuttle companies
Mountain area. Resort Sitters
all their clothes. There’s nothing
including Canyon Transportation
(resortsitters.com) services Park
pants, neck gaiter/buff; helmet (most ski school programs require them), extra socks and gloves
Most ski destinations in Utah
Book Ahead
Schedule ski school lessons
fill out in advance to save time on the morning of the first day. Alta, Brighton, Deer Valley, Park
like heading out to ski school and
City resorts, looking out for
realizing that Johnny’s snow pants
your kiddos at your location, on
from last year don’t fit.
your schedule. And Guardian
DO bring your ski boots, but
Angel (guardianangelbaby.
leave your skis at home. It typically
com) provides childcare, baby
costs as much to rent as it does
equipment rentals and
to check skis with your baggage onto the plane or to ship them. Once in Utah, hundreds of rental options can be found both on and off mountain. Or better yet, have rental skis delivered to your hotel, condo or house. (See page 26 for options.) Most ski rental delivery outfits also arrive armed with a selection of gloves, neck gaiters, hats and hand warmers for purchase.
46 skiutah.com
pasta, burgers, chicken fingers,
sightseeing! A few kid-approved
etc.) followed by after-dinner
local attractions include Salt Lake
entertainment.
City’s Natural History Museum
If you plan on eating in,
even grocery delivery services
is a cinch with après-ski options
in Salt Lake City, Park City and
for kids of all ages. The Children’s
Sundance Mountain Resort.
Concierge program at the Lodges
of Utah (nhmu.utah.edu),
streamline cooking back at
Discovery Gateway Children’s
the condo or house rental by
Museum (discoverygateway.org),
arranging for grocery delivery—
and Hogle Zoo (hoglezoo.org),
many will make the extra trip to
Draper’s Living Plant Aquarium
the wine and liquor store as well.
(thelivingplanet.com), Ogden’s
(For options, turn to page 26.)
Union Station (ogdencity.com) and Park City’s historic Main Street
at Deer Valley (deervalley.com)
Heed the Rule of Three
your clan? If yes, you’ll love this.
gathers the littles for a sweet
As much fun as you plan to
yourself for a family ski vacation
For a one-time fee of $45, the Ski
après-ski pick-me-up with hot
have on the slopes, avoid the
is to realize that, as with all else in
Utah 5th & 6th Grade Passport
cocoa, treats and supervised
burnout by taking every third
life, even with the best-laid plans,
(skiutah.com/passport) allows fifth
activities, giving parents the
day off. Switch things up with
things will go astray: gloves will be
graders three day passes at each
perfect opportunity to kick back
sledding or tubing: Brian Head,
lost, reservations misplaced and
of Utah’s resorts and sixth graders,
and have a cold one on the ski
Cherry Peak and Woodward
patience tried. But along with the
one day pass at each resort. FYI: A
beach. Alta Lodge (altalodge.com)
Park City all operate on-site,
bumps in the road there will also
parent or guardian must purchase
has a special kids’ dinner (think
lift-served tubing hills. If Nordic
be lots of giggles, hugs and other
the Passport online ahead of
skiing and snowshoeing are
precious moments set against the
your visit.
your thing, Snowbasin, Solitude
backdrop of mountains, snow and
Dining
and Sundance provide miles of
warming your toes by a fire at the
groomed trails for ample family
end of the day.
Got a fifth or sixth grader in
A day on the slopes makes for
fun. For a real rush, the zipline
hungry shredders. Check out
tour and alpine coaster at Park
the dining options at and nearby
City Mountain has you covered.
your accommodations and make
(For more off-piste activities,
reservations ahead of time. Plan to eat early to keep the hangries at
(historicparkcity.com). Probably the best way to arm
turn to page 37.) Want a break from the snow? Go
bay. Filling the time before dinner
the greatest snow on earth
47
EVERY RUN BRINGS A SMILE. YOUR HEALTHCARE SHOULD MATCH IT. To learn more, visit UofUhealth.org
48 skiutah.com
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49
From
Dusk A snowcat moves through the lowest section of Powder Paradise, an often-groomed run in Snowbird’s Mineral Basin, as the moon casts its glow on the American Fork Twin Peaks above.
50 skiutah.com
to
Dawn What goes down up on the mountain after the lifts stop spinning for the day by Sean Zimmerman-Wall photos by Jay Dash
I
t begins the afternoon before. “We received 10 inches today, which brings our storm total to 16 inches since last night. There’s a full canyon closure tonight and more snow on the way,” says Chris Bremer, Snowbird’s snow safety supervisor. “It’s going to be a busy morning tomorrow.”
The audience is the resort’s mountain operations staff, the crew charged with the seemingly insurmountable task of preparing one of North America’s premier steep-skiing destinations for the eager masses who await. Residing near the top of a dead-end road in the Wasatch Range’s venerable Little Cottonwood Canyon, Snowbird is ideally situated to absorb the brunt of powerful northwest storms that drop copious amounts of white gold on this once-upon-a-time silver mining encampment. More than 3,000 feet of vertical relief separate the resort’s base area from its Hidden Peak high point, which also serves as the terminus of Snowbird’s iconic Tram. Snowbird’s sprawling drainages—Gad Valley, Peruvian Gulch and Mineral Basin—housing more than 150 runs, culminate at this pinnacle as well. However, long before the first rider steps off the Tram dock at 9:10 a.m., dozens of dedicated employees working across various shifts are busy through the night prepping the mountain for skiing and riding the next day. Here’s a behindthe-scenes look at what that entails.
the greatest snow on earth
51
Members of Snowbird’s snowmaking staff fine tune the direction of a snow gun along the Lupine Loop in Mineral Basin.
The Night Belongs to Snowmakers Snowmakers, those steely
snowmakers create massive
technicians who take to the
piles of snow—often referred
mountain mostly at night, deliver
to as whales—for the groomers
the additional boost to the bounty
to spread along the slopes,
that Mother Nature provides
manicuring the creamy substrate
each season. From mid-October
into a skiable surface that
through January, crews of five to
connects riders to their favorite
seven snowmakers draw long,
stashes. “I have been here since
white lines across the mountain’s
day one of snowmaking back in
critical corridors with the power of
the early ’90s,” says Rusty Johnson,
wind, water and brawn. Each snow
Snowbird head of snowmaking
gun is strategically placed and
and assistant director of snowcats.
diligently monitored to ensure it
“The job has evolved to cover the
delivers a product that is almost as
whole mountain and is now over
good as the real thing. Long, frigid
80 percent automated. But it still
nights are spent standing proximal
takes a skilled crew to monitor and
to machines that resemble the
run, noon to midnight, midnight
turbine of a Boeing 737. Moving
to noon. That’s what it takes to get
methodically from run to run,
the mountain set up early season.”
Smoothing out the Bookends traverse in Mineral Basin.
Smooth Operators
52 skiutah.com
Like a military procession, a fleet
and ice. Navigating through the
of tracked snowcats moves into
darkness with speed and precision
position every evening to spend
takes years of practice and endless
the night remastering the piste
patience. “Here at Snowbird, most
for the following morning. Each
of the snowmakers are also the
operator commands their vessel
cat drivers, and they know the
across the mountain, and works in
mountain well,” Johnson says.
concert to smooth out the bumps
“Shift changes happen around
and ruts that skiers and boarders
1 a.m., allowing the team to cover
create each day. The crew also
the entire resort efficiently. Every
ensures that certain areas of the
night we strive for maximum
mountain are leveled out after
acreage, and it’s satisfying to clean
massive snowfalls so the lifts can
up the mountain and bring the
run unencumbered and the patrol
place back to its corduroy state.”
can access specific areas with
Wrapping up their grooming shift
ease. Cruising by moonlight and
around sunrise, the drivers let the
headlight, each snowcat is its own
next team take the reins to begin
world within a universe of snow
moving people up the mountain.
A snowcat heading from Hidden Peak toward the Road to Provo traverse.
An electrician gingerly traverses beams at Snowbird’s 11,000-foot Hidden Peak. The work is necessary to remove ice buildup from camera equipment operators use to safely dock the 125-passenger tram.
Snow removal is a neverending job at Snowbird. Here a Tram operator snowblows the Hidden Peak platform.
Stairway to Heaven Sentries The first members of Snowbird’s
and riders along a 1.6-mile cable
“Getting my team, and the rest of
Tram and Lifts Department arrive
and up 2,900 vertical feet to
the mountain operations staff, up
for work at 5:30 a.m. The central
the 11,000-feet-above-sea-level
the mountain safely and efficiently
artery to Snowbird’s beating heart
Hidden Peak in just 10 minutes.
is my greatest challenge and my
is the tram. This marvel of Swiss
A dedicated team of operators,
biggest reward,” Durrant says.
engineering makes it all possible.
electricians and mechanics keep
Resort founders Dick Bass and
the tram’s bullwheels turning in all
core staff of lifties moves out to join
Ted Johnson had the foresight
conditions. Led by Tram Supervisor
the electricians and mechanics
to expertly place this modern
Rachael Durrant, a 23-year
spread across Snowbird’s 12
wonder in the ideal location to
Snowbird veteran, the symphony
other lifts. Once these cabled-
access thousands of acres of
of moving parts and people plays
conveyances are up and running,
world-class terrain. First opened
out every day of the winter season,
the next team slips on their red
in 1971, the tram whisks 125 skiers
which last year spanned 191 days.
GORE-TEX and heads uphill.
Alongside the tram operators, a
the greatest snow on earth
53
Members of Snowbird’s Ski Patrol gather in Hidden Peak headquarters for the daily morning meeting at 7 a.m.
Stewards of Safety The Snowbird Ski Patrol’s 11,000-
The orchestration required
foot Hidden Peak headquarters
to keep a mountain resort open
serves as the nerve center for daily
the average 180 days per season
operations. By 7 a.m. the crew of
is astounding. Millions of hours
nearly 40 professional rescuers
of hard work, perfectly timed
and avalanche technicians
movements and a bit of luck allow
arrives for the morning meeting.
Snowbird—along with all other
Under the direction of seasoned
Utah resorts—to collectively host
supervisors, each team member
just over five million skier and
develops a plan with his or her
snowboarder visits per season.
partner to lay siege to the newly
“Our mission is to always provide
fallen snow. “Just getting to this
the best mountain product we
point is difficult, and there is a
can and provide this in the safest
lot of interdependency across
way possible for guests and staff
departments,” says Kent Bernier,
to enjoy. This philosophy runs
assistant Snowbird Ski Patrol
through every decision we make
director. “We enjoy opening lots of
as a group,” says Jake Treadwell,
terrain and getting it skied as soon
director of mountain operations
as possible.” Moving through a pre-
at Snowbird.
determined series of routes, each
54 skiutah.com
Whether it is the steeps you
patrol team works the terrain with
seek, storm-day tree skiing or
skis and explosives to mitigate
carving GS turns into perfectly
the hazard that developed
manicured corduroy, rest assured,
overnight. Once the avalanche
a group of passionate people is
problem has been assessed and
showing up every morning and
deemed manageable, the final
night to give that to you. So, next
touches of ensuring rope lines and
time you are on the slopes, high-
signage are adequately placed is
five a liftie, thank a groomer or
completed. At 9 a.m., the opening
snowmaker or buy a patroller a
bell rings and the powder dreams
beer. Because without these fine
of thousands are realized.
folks, we’d all be walking uphill.
Both hand-thrown and machinelaunched explosives are used to mitigate avalanches at Snowbird.
A pair of ski patrollers work at the Mineral Basin Avalauncher.
Lots of man (and woman) hours go into preparing Snowbird’s slopes for the public. Here a team of ski patrollers hikes along the American Fork Twin Peaks avalanche control route bootpack.
the greatest snow on earth
55
56 skiutah.com
the POWDER HOUND
the FOODIE
the EXPLORER
the URBANITE
A Weekend in the
Mountains,
Perfected by Jeremy Pugh
You’ve planned for months and, finally, the time has come—a long weekend in the Utah mountains. You try not to gloat to your colleagues as you leave your desk behind on Thursday evening. But your out-of-office reply is clear: “I’ll be out until Monday and will NOT be checking emails while I’m gone.” No more work time, meeting time, client-call time or screen time. You’re on mountain time now. Here we offer four distinctly different, hourby-hour itineraries so you can spend your precious down(hill) time wisely.
the greatest snow on earth
57
for the POWDER HOUND World famous for steep, challenging terrain, Snowbird and Alta are bucket-list spots, perfect for hardchargers with ample beginner and intermediate terrain for the rest of us.
7:45 a.m. to 4 p.m. Lift off. Literally. Soak up this unforgettable day of flight+run, flight+run—quick, mid-air snacks— flight+run, flight+run, et al, to untracked lines in more than 80,000 acres of the Wasatch Range’s most spectacular backcountry.
FRIDAY 1 p.m. Land at airport code SLC. Grab a shuttle or a car share to the Snowpine Lodge (snowpine.com, 801-742-2000), a chic, Southwest-meets-mod hotel offering ski-in/ski-out access at Alta and rooms ranging from luxurious mountain-view suites to monastic dorms.
Stow your bags and grab your gear. Alta’s base is situated at 8,500’ above sea level, so use the time before the lifts stop running for the day at 4:45 p.m. to ski off your jet lag on Roller Coaster, a long, intermediate cruiser off the Sugarloaf lift or the glades off the Collins lift in Westward Ho.
SATURDAY
5 p.m. It’s well past time for drinks at the Alta Lodge’s classic Sitzmark Club (altalodge.com, 800-707-2582). Settle in by the fire, buy a local a beer and gather some intel for tomorrow’s deep dive into the Wasatch Backcountry.
6 a.m. You did listen when we advised you to call it an early night on Friday, right? You’ll need to be at the Snowbird helipad bright-eyed and bushy-tailed for your briefing at Powderbird Helicopter Skiing (powderbird.com, 801-742-2800). Fuel up on breakfast while you pay careful attention to the rules of the non-road.
6 p.m. Dinner at The Snowpine. Mosey to the game room after dinner to get to know your powder-hungry brethren. But call it an early night with some bedtime check-ins on tomorrow’s forecast at powderbuoy.com and opensnow.com.
SUNDAY
7 p.m.
5 p.m. Beers and free popcorn (ask for the pretzel-laden “spliff mix”) at Peruvian Lodge Bar (altaperuvian. com, 801.742-3000), Alta’s most famous (or infamous) ski bar. Every surface of the “P-Dog” is covered in memorabilia from 75-plus years of Alta’s existence. Pro tip: Locals live by the mantra “popcorn is not dinner.” Heed that warning.
Pick your protein: steak. Pick your starch: twice-cooked cheese potatoes. Pick your greens: a tossed salad drowned in housemade
8 a.m.
9 p.m. How are you still awake? You might talk the bartender at the Tram Club (located next to the Steak Pit) into another round but, really?
super-chunky blue cheese dressing. Welcome to Snowbird’s Steak Pit (reservations: 801-933-2222, Snowbird valet shuttle: 801-933-2192), featuring prime dry-aged USDA cuts and a wine list to delight your palate.
2 p.m.
Sunday belongs to Snowbird (snowbird.com, 801-933-2222, Catch the first Tram (9 a.m.) and eye The Cirque as you crest the top of Hidden Peak. If there’s fresh snow that’s where the masses will head. Don’t take the bait. They go left, you go right to the High Baldy Traverse where runs like Fields of Glory, Thanks for the Memories and Center of Gravity await.
Inter-what? Occasionally so much snow falls in Little Cottonwood Canyon that local authorities require everyone in the canyon to stay indoors, by law, until the avalanche danger can be mitigated—a condition known as interlodge. While it can be inconvenient—particularly if you have a flight to catch—interlodge typically occurs just a few times per season and usually lasts for just a few hours.
58 skiutah.com
for the FOODIE So you officially came here for the skiing but, umm, how long do you actually have to ski before it’s time to eat? We have you with a weekend at Sundance and Park City to fulfill all your schussing and epicurean dreams.
8 p.m.
FRIDAY
Dinner at the Tree Room (reservations: 866-627-8313), winner of the Forbes Travel Guide four-star rating and the Wine Spectator Award of Excellence. Yes, that’s a tree in the middle of the room. Redford prides himself on preserving the natural landscape and, well, no need to cut down a beautiful tree, right?
1 p.m. Shuttle up to Sundance Mountain Resort (sundanceresort.com, 801225-4107) owned by Robert Redford and named for his famous role in Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid. Check into a Sundance Suite, cozy stand-alone cabins with fireplaces and sitting areas.
2 p.m. Night-skiing goes until 9 p.m., giving you plenty of time to get out there. Before the sun goes down, however, head to Red’s Summit (the top of the mountain) and let your jaw drop over the sweeping, 360-degree views of the Wasatch Range.
Noon
10 p.m.
After some blissful schussing around Deer Valley’s immaculately groomed terrain make your way to lunch at Rime Seafood and Raw Bar (top of Mountaineer Express lift, rimerawbar. com), which offers flown-in fresh oysters and Connecticut-style (no mayo) lobster rolls, really.
Take your whiskey neat at Sundance’s Owl Bar. This bar, as in, the actual bar was salvaged from a watering hole in Thermopolis, WY. where Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid plotted their schemes.
8 a.m. Say good-bye to Sundance and head to Park City (Express Shuttle, expressshuttleutah.com). Drop your bags at the Torchlight Inn (torchlightinn.com, 435-612-0345), conveniently located in Park City’s picturesque historic district and on the free bus line accessing your next stop: Deer Valley Resort (deervalley. com, 435-649-1000).
SATURDAY 7 a.m. Sit down for a breakfast of chilaquiles or smoked salmon eggs benedict at Sundance’s Foundry Grill or grab a breakfast burrito and coffee from the Sundance Deli.
4 p.m. Take your afternoon après with a glass of gewürztraminer and a fondue session at the Goldener Hirsch Inn (Silver Lake Village base area, goldenerhirsch inn. com, 435-649-7770).
6 p.m. Time to go to Park City’s Historic Main Street to stroll the shops and people watch until a late dinner at High West Distillery’s Nelson Cottage (highwest. com, 435-513-6653) which offers lavish, one-seating-a-night dinners complete with whiskey pairings from the world’s only ski-in/ski-out distillery.
Noon
SUNDAY 8 a.m. Sip cold-pressed morning joe while fueling up with a Buddha bowl at Harvest (harvestparkcity.com, 435604-0463), a hip little restaurant just off of Main Street.
9 a.m. Clomp over to the Town Lift and get ready to explore Park City Mountain (parkcitymountain.com, 435-6498111) which, at 7,300 acres, is the largest resort in the U.S. Yeah, it’s exhausting but don’t worry, lunch will come soon. Work up an appetite with laps on the intermediate runs under the Silverlode Lift like Parleys Park and Mel’s Alley. Take the Quicksilver Gondola to the Canyons side (where lunch is).
Cloud Dine, perched on Dream Peak, Cloud Dine is a cafeteria-style lunch stop with gourmet-level food and stellar views. The Niçoise salad with sushi-grade tuna, is a perfect example. Be sure to save room for the house-made doughnuts. Burn off those extra calories in the chutes, glades and bowls off of the NinetyNine 90 lift. On your way down the mountain you’ll surely be reeled in by the perfume of smoking meat as you pass the Tombstone BBQ (at the Tombstone lift base) with its daily bounty of smoked brisket, pork and sausage. The perfect quick snack before heading to the airport.
BYO How To While Utah’s liquor laws have a reputation for being a little quirky (i.e., wine and liquor is avaliable at Utah state liquor stores while beer can be purchased in grocery and convenient stores), the state’s liquor stores are well stocked, and it’s perfectly kosher to bring your own wine into a restaurant. Brown bagging, as it is called, is subject to a corkage fee, which at just $10 to $20 per bottle, is still a bargain.
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59
for the EXPLORER
FRIDAY
Above the northern Utah city of Ogden, in the beautiful Ogden Valley, you’ll find two lesservisited but still übercharming resorts, Nordic Valley and Powder Mountain.
Noon Enjoy a big ol’ burrito at Hidden Lake Lodge (and maybe a beer) and enjoy the view of four states from the very top of Powder Mountain.
4 p.m. Beers at the Powder Keg, where most days you’ll find John Burrows behind the mic with The Wasatch Wild Band in the corner bashing their way through crowdpleasing covers.
1 p.m. Catch a shuttle to the Compass Rose Lodge (compassroselodge.com, 385-279-4460) a 15-room, boutique hotel with a unique, hipster-farmhouse vibe, located in convenient proximity to both Nordic Valley and Powder Mountain in Huntsville.
SATURDAY 9 a.m. Behold Powder Mountain (powdermountain.com, 801-745-3772)— or “Pow Mow” in the local lingo. The resort limits the number of skiers and riders on the mountain each day to ensure plenty of elbow room. Spend your first day here exploring the piste. We’ll get into the wild (big time) tomorrow.
3 p.m. Make your way to Nordic Valley (nordicvalley.com, 801-745-3511), a small, family-friendly hill in the lower hills of the valley that runs the lifts until 8 p.m. Nordic is a casual place with inexpensive lift tickets to get your ski legs on.
9 p.m. Explore the night sky at the Compass Rose’s own private observatory. The powerful HALO telescope reveals celestial bodies like the rings of Saturn or Jupiter’s Galilean Moons.
7 p.m. Welcome to the oldest bar in Utah, The Shooting Star (shooting-starsaloon.business.site, 801-745-2002), with its tattered dollar bills covering the ceiling, old-school juke box and surprisingly tasty burgers. Dining options are a little slim in this part of Utah, so settle in and enjoy the Shooting Star Burger, with a split knockwurst included. Yes. That is a stuffed Saint Bernard on the wall over the third booth. P.S. The Shooting Star only accepts cash.
5 p.m.
Noon
Take the evening to explore hipster downtown Ogden and tuck into a bowl of steaming ramen from Ramen Haus (ramenhaus. business.site, 801-393-0000). Finish off with the surprising honey toast—scoops of vanilla ice cream, piled in a hollowed-out loaf of imported Japanese brioche and drizzled with, of course, honey.
Grab a slice of pizza at Lucky Slice in Timberline Lodge. Lucky Slice’s home oven is down the hill in Ogden and they pride themselves on the best New York-style pizza in Utah. Then get back to the sidecountry before it’s regretfully (hello, reality) time to head to the airport.
SUNDAY 9 a.m. Today we go off trail. The real deal at Pow Mow is the snow cat skiing on Lightning Ridge. A fleet of cats serves ungroomed terrain on the backside of the resort and opens up an in-bound backcountry experience that locals would rather we not tell you about. You can pay per ride or buy a pack of cat tickets. (Hint: You’ll want the pack of tickets.)
Stashes Revealed Are you an intermediate to advanced skier or rider who’s all about making the most of your time exploring Powder Mountain’s 8,000-plus acres? Discover this resort’s amazing terrain in the company of its seasoned guides by booking the In-Bounds Tour, a full-day adventure tailored to your group’s abilities that includes one Lightning Ridge Snowcat Pass per person.
60 skiutah.com
for the URBANITE Make downtown Salt Lake City your base camp for a yin-yang weekend of checking out Utah’s capitol city, Big Cottonwood Canyon and Snowbasin.
FRIDAY 1 p.m. Check into the swanky and creative-yet-tasteful Hotel Monaco (monaco-saltlakecity.com, 801-595-0000) located right in the heart of Salt Lake City (and that hosts daily wine receptions in the hip, art deco lobby). Dump your bags and get onto a shuttle up to Brighton Resort (brightonresort.com, 801-532-4731).
SATURDAY
10 p.m. Stop in for a nightcap on Salt Lake’s Main St., dubbed “Whiskey Street” for its proliferation of watering holes (one of which is actually called Whiskey Street). We like Alibi Bar & Place (369 S. Main St.) for its nononsense bartenders who put the craft in craft-cocktails.
9 a.m. Get the SolBright day ticket when you arrive at Solitude, which will allow you to explore all of Solitude and Brighton’s combined 142 runs.
Ski until your legs give out or your belly aches for food. Don’t worry about time: Brighton prides itself on 200 acres for night-skiing, open until 9 p.m.
7 p.m.
7 a.m. Rise early and head back up Big Cottonwood to Solitude Mountain Resort (solitudemountain.com, 801534-1400). Make time to stop along the way at the Silver Fork Lodge (silverforklodge.com, 801-533-9977), a cozy place for a hearty breakfast.
3 p.m.
Downtown Salt Lake City boasts hundreds of eateries, from fast casual to five-star. HSL (hslrestaurant. com, 801-539-9999) is known for its inventive small plates, gorgeous cocktails and using locally sourced, creative ingredients. Afterward, catch a touring Broadway musical, an NBA game, live music, comedy club—the options are truly endless (theblocksslc.com).
Noon
SUNDAY 7 a.m. 4 p.m. Sip a beer from the long list of drafts, bottles and cans at Solitude’s funky Thirsty Squirrel bar before heading back to Hotel Monaco for dinner at its stellar on-site eatery, Bambara.
Get up sleepy head. You have a train to catch. Head to Ogden on the UTA Frontrunner (uta.com) and get off at historic Ogden Union Station (theunionstation.org) before taking the bus to Snowbasin.
9 a.m. Snowbasin (snowbasin.com, 801620-1000) came into its own during the 2002 Olympic Winter Games, hosting the men’s and women’s downhill events. If the sun is shining, glide out to Strawberry Express Gondola for a morning of sunwashed groomer skiing.
Lunch in the John Paul Lodge situated below the “beer can” lift that takes skiers to the top of the men’s Olympic downhill course with views down into the Ogden Valley. After lunch, take the short ride up to the top of the mountain. The view provides a fabulous endpoint to your weekend. (Don’t worry, you don’t have to drop into the steep Olympic-level course, you can ride down on the gondola.)
Getting Up There The Utah Transit Authority operates the FrontRunner train between Provo and Ogden, the ski bus to many of Utah’s 15 resorts and TRAX light rail lines, which connect to several points along the Wasatch Front and the Salt Lake City International Airport. (Tip: A FrontRunner pass can be used again as a bus ticket within two hours of purchase.) Map out all your transportation needs at skiutah.com/skibus.
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61
Say hello to your brand new, bigger, better Salt Lake City International Airport (SLC), arriving in 2020. The New SLC will replace the three existing terminals with one large, modern terminal that has the capacity to
S.SecchiÂŽ
meet the ever-growing demands of a major air transportation hub. To learn more, visit SLCairport.com
62 skiutah.com
The
Greatest Snow on
Earth
and Much, Much More
by Melissa Fields
B
y now you know what a sure bet Utah is in terms of snowfall. Case in point: last
season, all of the state’s resorts, from north to south, had base depths measuring in feet rather than inches on their spring closing dates (except Snowbird, which stayed open for skiing through July 4). But what may be less apparent are the unique characteristics that define each resort. Things that, on your own, might take multiple seasons to suss out, like Eagle Point’s Powder Fridays, the off-menu dirty chai at Alta Java or sipping a Spicy Steve at Sundance’s Owl Bar. Until now, that is. Along with the need-to-know 411 about all 15 Utah resorts, on the following pages we let you in on a curated gathering of insider beta, ranging from the greatest place for your kids to learn to turn and the coolest mountainside live music venue, to how to get guaranteed first tracks and the surreal slopeside spa you gotta check out. Everything you need to make a ski trip to Utah one of your greatest. You’re welcome.
Evelibus ex ernam debit iur aut la venimil icatemporum evenihit, quuntot atemporerios vellest endu sciaspel ius dollitis dolore essimus.
D Chris Pearson
Turn the page to start planning your greatest winter getaway ever.
earth the greatest snow on earth
63 25
The recently renovated Grand Summit Hotel, located in Canyons Village
Park City Mountain Average annual snowfall: 360" Vertical: 3,200' Highest point: 10,000' above sea level Skiable acres: 7,300
S
on your own? No problem.
ince 2015, when
that began with a $15 million
installation of
remodel of the marquee
the Quicksilver
Grand Summit Hotel and the
acreage also means that
Snowboard School instructors
gondola connected the
recent addition of several other
there’s plenty of space to
show you the way on a Peak
previously separate Park
lodging properties including
get away and find your
to Peak Guided Experience
City Mountain Resort
YotelPad, Lift, Apex Residences
own personal bliss. Not
(parkcityskischool@vailresorts.
and Canyons, Park City
and more. Or stay in a house
comfortable navigating Park
com, 435-658-5530).
Mountain has held the
or boutique hotel in Park City’s
City Mountain’s 7,300 acres
unmatched distinction
historic district, known as Old
of being the largest lift-served
Town, and access the resort via
ski resort in the United States.
the Town Lift.
But after just one visit to this
Park City Mountain’s on-
super-sized resort, you’ll see
mountain terrain is as varied
that Park City—as it is most
as its lodging options. Within
often referred—is as much
the resort’s massive 7,300 acres
about substance as it is about
you’ll find it all, from buttery
size.
groomers and thigh-burner
First there’s the variety of
This resort’s sweeping
Let one of the resort’s Ski &
When you come, be sure to
Park City Mountain’s plentiful acreage makes it easy to find your own personal bliss
bumps to powder-filled
ski-in/ski-out lodging (435-
bowls and easy-does-it pistes
602-4099). The Park City
meandering past stately
Mountain Village offers a
mountain homes. The new
classic mountain lodging
wide-open, evenly graded High
experience with resort hotels
Meadow Park learning area
and condos surrounding a
was designed by the resort’s
charming base area of shops,
Ski & Snowboard School
restaurants, and an ice rink.
and is an excellent place for
The Canyons Village base is
beginners to work on their
in the midst of a renaissance
turns and intermediates to
DISTANCE FROM SLC AIRPORT: 32 MILES
64 skiutah.com
refine technique.
Multi-resort Passes Accepted
1
(435) 649-8111 PARKCITYMOUNTAIN.COM
History To Go Glimpse Park City’s colorful history with a free Silver to Slopes guided ski tour of the dozens of historic silver mining– era structures still standing within the resort boundaries. This tour departs daily from the Park City Mountain Village’s Eagle Statue at 10 a.m. and at the Trail Map near the top of the Bonanza lift at 1 p.m.
2
3
Shaken, not Stirred
Send It, Vicariously
Nestled near the base of the Pioneer and McConkey’s
For a glimpse of a Method Air, Backside 540 Mute,
chairlifts is the Mid-Mountain Lodge. Constructed as a
Frontside Double Cork and much more, be sure to
miner’s boarding house in 1896, this charming building was
slide over to Park City Mountain’s Eagle Race Arena,
saved from demolition, moved a mile uphill to its current
located near the base of the First Time chairlift. There
location and transformed into a skiers day lodge in 1986. The
you can’t miss the 22-foot-deep, 550-foot long Eagle
Mid-Mountain received its latest—and most spectacular—
Superpipe, which has hosted the best in the world for
renovation last year and now offers tasty bistro-inspired food
Olympic, Grand Prix and World Championships events.
and a full bar. The lodge’s enormous deck is the place to be
Drop in, if you dare, or simply live vicariously through
on sunny days.
the athletes who train there throughout the season.
bring your appetite. More than
Urban Connection
Get Your Grüv On
a dozen on-mountain eateries
For a bird’s-eye view of Park City’s funky historic district,
You’d be hard-pressed to find a bigger or more elab-
dot the landscape at Park City
known as Old Town, catch a ride from lower Main Street
orate celebration of spring than Park City Mountain’s
Mountain, with dozens more
on the Town Lift. Yes, this chair is a slower fixed-grip triple,
Spring Grüv Festival. This two-week-long on-mountain
at both base areas. Highlights
but we wouldn’t have it any other way. The 20ish-minute
bash (typically the last week of March and first week of
include the homemade donuts
ride provides ample time to take in the views over vintage
April) includes rocking concerts, free s’mores roasting,
and pretzel dogs at Cloud Dine,
mining homes and dense aspen groves before depositing
meet and greets with avalanche dogs and the
the Lookout Cabin’s cheese
passengers near the base of the Bonanza lift.
infamous pond-skimming competition.
fondue, the made-to-order tuna poke bowl at the newly transformed Mid-Mountain Lodge and the BBQ beef brisket at Tombstone BBQ.
1 With 229 days of sun annually, bluebird days are common at Park City Mountain. 2 The Spring Grüv Festival’s pond-skimming competition. 3 Park City Mountain boasts eight terrain parks and two halfpipes. 4 Lessons are offered for kids as young as three. 5 Dozens of restaurants and bars dot Park City’s Main Street. 6 More than half of Park City Mountain’s terrain is rated intermediate.
Finally, even those who don’t ski or ride love Park City Mountain’s unique proximity to downtown Park City, a bona fide community with a rocking nightlife, tons of shops and galleries, innovative dining options and a charming historic district that still looks a lot like its former iteration as a silver mining outpost.
New for 2019–20 The Epic Day Pass, a customizable pass for skiers and riders who don’t need the
4
unlimited skiing offered by the Epic Season Pass, drops in price with each additional day purchased. The previously outdoor Tombstone BBQ is now a fully enclosed indoor restaurant with seating for 50 and a beer bar. And a new four-passenger chairlift that cuts about 20 minutes off the commute between the Park City Mountain Village and Canyons Village.
5
6 the greatest snow on earth
65
Average annual snowfall: 547" Vertical: 2,538'
A
D Chris Pearson
Open since 1939, Alta is one of the oldest ski resorts in the country.
a e r A i k S a Alt
Multi-resort Passes Accepted
sk a Salt
Cottonwood Canyon road
avalanche control work, those
natives and visitors—coming
Lake City
closure and fell in love.”
on the upside of the closure
back to this renowned resort
are treated to a country club
is Alta’s old school/new school
transplant
Wait a minute, you’re
what spurred them to
probably thinking, being stuck
kind of experience, i.e. the lifts
persona. Alta is one of the
make the permanent
anywhere at any time would
at Alta (and Snowbird), start
U.S.’s three remaining skiers-
move to Utah from
be a huge pain in the you-
turning as scheduled, giving
only mountain resorts but was
Buffalo, Chicago, Los
know-what. But not at Alta.
everyone staying slopeside
also among the first resorts
Angeles, etc., and,
When monster snowstorms
first and, until the road opens,
in the U.S. to use RFID lift
more often than you’d
cause the Utah Department
exclusive dibs on fresh,
ticket technology, eliminating
expect the answer is “During
of Transportation to close the
untracked powder.
the discomfort of digging
a ski vacation, I got stuck
winding Little Cottonwood
on the Alta side of a Little
Canyon Road due to
Highest point: 11,068' above sea level Skiable acres: 2,614
But what keeps many of those transplants—along with
into your jacket for your ski pass before boarding the lift.
1
DISTANCE FROM SLC AIRPORT: 37 MILES
66 skiutah.com
D Chris Pearson
Alta remains a place where millennials and baby boomers mingle easily in the lift lines and on the slopes.
(801) 359-1078 ALTA.COM
D Lee Cohen
2
3
4
5
Last winter, Alta’s historic Snowpine Lodge underwent an extensive remodel that brought a new level of luxury accommodations to the
1 Alta logged 626 inches of snow for the 2018–19 winter season. 2 The beginning of another postcard-perfect day in Little Cottonwood Canyon. 3 Lunch with a side of incredible views at Collin’s Grill. 4 Inside the Snowpine Lodge’s Stillwell Spa is the Grotto, a surreally relaxing space carved out of the lodge’s original granite foundation. 5 Alta is known for its right-side-up storms, where wetter snow falls first, followed by Utah’s signature light, dry powder. 6 Sun, sips and smiles at the Albion Base Area’s Alta Java.
resort while, at the same time, maintained a piece of Alta’s traditional ski bum
Take the Inbounds Tour
culture by including the
Don’t hesitate to upgrade to the AltaBird pass, your
previous property’s dorm-
ticket to glide all of Alta and neighboring Snowbird’s
style lodging in the remodel.
5,000+ combined acres via the connection at the top
And Alta remains a place
of the Sugarloaf lift. Buy an AltaBird at the base area
where millennials and baby
ticket windows or upgrade your Alta day pass at the
boomers mingle easily both
ticket shack perched on Sugarloaf Pass at the Alta/
in the lift line and on holy
Snowbird boundary.
grail slopes like High Rustler, Westward Ho and Gunsight.
While Alta continues to make
Sip & Size Up
improvements to lifts and
When you’re ready for a midday break, slide into Alta
infrastructure every season,
Java, a ski-up espresso bar at Alta’s Albion Day Lodge
it is also one of Utah’s most
offering hot drinks in cool, hand-thrown ceramic
environmentally focused ski
mugs and homemade snacks like banana bread and
areas, employing a full-time
frittatas. Once you have a bevvy and treat in hand, take
Two Planks Only, Please
sustainability manager who
a load off on one of the lawn chairs set up on the snow
No offense to snowboarders, of course, but Alta re-
works closely with the U.S.
nearby to watch skiers make laps on High Rustler.
mains one of three resorts in the U.S. (and, along with
Forest Service to be good stewards of its coveted Little Cottonwood Canyon home.
6
Deer Valley, one of two in Utah) that’s skiers-only.
Stone Sanctuary Inside the newly renovated Snowpine Lodge’s Stillwell
A Civilized Respite
Spa (snowpine.com) is a Zen-like space known as The
Though Alta’s base lodges offer a wide range of refu-
Alf’s restaurant, at the base of
Grotto. The walls of this subterranean hot tub are lined
eling options, we recommend spending at least one
Supreme and Sugarloaf lifts,
with granite limestone—similar to that found in Little
lunch hour at Collin’s Grill. Located on the top level
has added 150 more seats,
Cottonwood Canyon—the lights are turned low and
of Watson Shelter, this Euro-bistro’s modern space is
a full-service ski shop and a
the only sounds are soft music and water gently cas-
defined by sweeping views of the surrounding moun-
slopeside coffee shop. And
cading out of the rock. Access this little slice of warm
tainsides. Take off your boots and don a pair of slippers
25 percent of the Wildcat lot
and sensory-deprived nirvana as a hotel guest or with a
before tucking into a bowl of French onion soup, roast-
will be dedicated to cars with
spa day pass. Services there range from massage and
ed beet salad or Utah trout. And go ahead and have
three or more passengers.
facials to hair styling and oxygen therapy.
that glass of wine or a cocktail—you’ve earned it.
New for 2019–20
the greatest snow on earth
67
Deer Valley Resort Average annual snowfall: 300" Vertical: 3,000' Highest point: 9,570' above sea level
Lodging and dining options are plentiful at Deer Valley’s Silver Lake Village.
Skiable acres: 2,026
68 skiutah.com
A
n image of
Multi-resort Passes Accepted
An area this iconic resort
the late Stein
has more than “got” is its
Eriksen in a
slope conditions. Deer Valley’s
gleaming Bogner one-
runs remain consistently
piece with nary a hair
groomed to perfection, not
out of place, making
only day-to-day but year-to-
a perfectly arced turn
year as well. That’s because
down a snowy slope
this resort has invested
under a cerulean sky
heavily in its snowmaking and
is, for many, the ultimate
grooming infrastructure and
personification of Deer
equipment every summer
Valley Resort. Rest assured,
since it opened in 1981. In
everything that Eriksen
fact, 76 percent of the resort’s
represented at Deer Valley
103 runs are augmented by
remains, like how ski valets run
snowmaking—the ideal back
up to unload your skis from
up to 300 average annual
your car as you arrive at the
inches of natural snowfall.
base lodges; the impeccable
What this means is that Deer
grooming, five-star food and
Valley’s favorite groomed
stellar ski school; and, best
runs—like Jordanelle, Nabob,
of all, Deer Valley’s friendly,
Tycoon, Hidden Treasure and
“we’ve got this” air.
Hawkeye—ski as flawlessly
DISTANCE FROM SLC AIRPORT: 36 MILES
1
While Deer Valley is renowned for its expertly groomed runs, its off -piste skiing is just as spectacular.
(435) 649-1000 DEERVALLEY.COM
in mid-December as they do mid-March. Sample the best of Deer Valley grooming team’s labors on a complimentary tour guided by the resort’s mountain hosts. Not only do these tours highlight Deer Valley’s excellent grooming, but you’ll also learn a bit of resort history and trivia. But don’t discount Deer
2
Valley’s off-piste goods. On powder days, the place to be is the Daly Chutes. Or head over to the runs in Mayflower Bowl—Mayflower Chutes, Fortune Teller or the long thigh-burner Orient Express— which often stay untracked until noon (except for your tracks, of course). In the spring or on warmer days, the northfacing runs to skier’s left of the Sultan Express lift line—Grizzly,
3
4
5
Peerless, Ruins of Pompei and Evergreen—hold the best offpiste snow the longest. Deer Valley remains, of course, the resort that continues to redefine the notion of on-mountain
1 Though he passed away in 2015, Olympian Stein Eriksen’s inimitable style and spirit lives on at Deer Valley. 2 The place to be on sunwashed afternoons is the Silver Lake Lodge Ski Beach. 3 You can enjoy Deer Valley’s renowned turkey chili at any of its day lodges or take it to go from the Deer Valley Grocery Café. 4 Olympian Kaylin Richardson leads a group on a Ski with a Champion tour. 5 A skier navigates the corduroy along the Stein’s Way run. Deer Valley consistently receives top honors for grooming in SKI magazine’s annual reader-ranked survey. 6 The ski school’s Gold Standard of Instruction means that lessons are customized to guests’ individual abilities and goals.
dining with options ranging from cheese burgers and charcuterie to pho and fondue.
Morning Jordanelle
While dining on mountain for
At the top of Deer Valley’s Little Baldy Peak (accessed
lunch at any of Deer Valley’s
via Mountaineer and the Jordanelle Gondola), point
day lodges is a no brainer,
your skis onto the intermediate Jordanelle ski run,
it’s well worth the return trip
named after the sweeping views of the Jordanelle
to make Deer Valley dinner
Reservoir that this run overlooks. Impeccably groomed
reservations at Mariposa, Royal
every day, the Jordanelle run skis best in the morning
Street Café, Seafood Buffet,
when the sun heats up the snow ever so slightly and
Fireside Dining and more.
makes its pristine corduroy “creamy” under your skis.
Where School Is In
Walk Like an Olympian
The folks at Deer Valley’s award-winning children’s
the world’s first-ever ski-in/ ski-out raw bar, opened at the
Give your family—or better yet, yourself—a dream
teaching kids to ski is about much more than sliding
top of the Jordanelle Gondola
come true with the Ski with a Champion experience,
on snow. There, kids are divided into age- and ability-
offering crudo, champagne,
a full or half day of guided skiing with one of six
appropriate groups ranging from 3 to 17 years old
lobster rolls and, of course,
Olympians including Ambassador of Skiing Heidi
where, in addition to working on their turns, they get
oysters on the half shell.
Voelker, Kaylin Richardson and Trace Worthington.
to cruise through Deer Valley’s wooded whoop-de-
(skiwithchamps@deervalley.com, 435-649-5766)
doo trails, make snow cones, ski with the Deer Valley
Last winter, Rime Seafood and Raw Bar (rimerawbar.com),
New for 2019–20 RFID scanning gates have
6
ski school (and state-licensed childcare) get that
mascots, build snowmen or, in the case of Teen Escape, simply ski around the resort out of the shadow of their
been installed at most of the
What’s for Dinner? Done!
resort’s 21 lifts, eliminating the
For decades, Deer Valley has been the act that all
need to unzip/untuck/undo
other resorts have followed when it comes to on-
to show staff your lift ticket.
mountain dining. And now you can dig into some
See and Be Seen
And digital signage has been
of Deer Valley’s more craveable favorites—including
The après-ski options at Deer Valley are many, but if
installed at Deer Valley’s base
turkey chili, chicken pot pie, braised short ribs, fresh
the sun is shining—and it does more than 200 days
lodges to provide real-time
cookies, Royal Street meatballs and much more—in
per year in Park City—grab a beer and take a seat
information on ticketing
the comfort of your rental home or condo. Simply
outside the Silver Lake Lodge at the Ski Beach. Not
availability and pricing,
order ahead (diningtogo.deervalley.com, 435-649-
only do these lounge chairs offer front-row seating to
lift operations, grooming
1000) or stop into the Deer Valley Grocery~Café (open
snow-sliding action on the Birdseye run, it is, hands
conditions and more.
until 6 p.m. daily) on your way off the mountain.
down, the best place to people watch in Park City.
parents. (435-645-6648, skierservices@deervalley.com)
the greatest snow on earth
69
D Chris Segal
Snowbird’s Tram whisks passengers up a 1.6-mile-long cable to Hidden Peak.
Snowbird Vertical: 3,200' Highest point: 11,000' above sea level Skiable acres: 2,500
N
o doubt,
the Summit Restaurant.
area, which is characterized
Snowbird’s accommodations
Snowbird
For the descent, pick your
by a sleek and modern
is the Cliff Lodge, where every
holds a place
poison—from expertly
Bauhaus architectural
well-appointed guest room
of almost mythical
groomed, sun-washed bowls
theme with a distinctively
looks out onto a spectacular
regard for skiers and
and tight, white-knuckle
Euro-contemporary vibe.
mountain view of either
snowboarders from
chutes to powder-filled glades
At the base, the pinnacle of
Snowbird’s runs or down
around the world. At
and meandering cruisers.
the center of this holy
Though Snowbird is known
grail–like ethos is the
for its challenge, have no fear:
Tram, a 125-passenger lift that
beginners and intermediates
whisks up 2,900 vertical feet
will find plenty to slide around
to the resort’s 11,000-foot-high
on at The ’Bird. And Snowbird’s
point, Hidden Peak, in just
Mountain School offers a full
10 minutes. When the Tram
range of instruction from
opened in 1971, it was one of
age-appropriate lessons for
the longest and most powerful
never-evers and teen camps
tramways in the world, and
to private guiding and one of
it remains so today. At the
the most renowned multiday
top, skiers and riders (and
women’s camps in the country.
foot passengers) can take in
skiers and riders from around the world
Snowbird is, however,
the sweeping, 360-degree
about much more than the
views for more than 100 miles
mountain. Multiple lodging,
through floor-to-cathedral-
dining, pampering and
ceiling windows at Snowbird’s
nightlife options populate the
newest on-mountain lodge,
resort’s well-conceived base
DISTANCE FROM SLC AIRPORT: 29 MILES
70 skiutah.com
Snowbird holds an almost mythical regard for
D Chris Pearson
Average annual snowfall: 500"
Multi-resort Passes Accepted
1 (801) 933-2222 SNOWBIRD.COM
Endless Winter Snowbird logged snowfall on 97 days of winter 2018–19, which piled up to a record-breaking 711 inches of snow for the season. Yes, Utah’s other resorts faired similarly well, but only Snowbird stayed open for skiing and riding through July 4—that’s a 191-day long season—which is not only the longest in Utah, but one of the longest in the world.
A World of Options
2
3
Skiing and riding Snowbird’s 168 runs via the Tram and
Wine Time
chairlifts is clearly the preferred modus operandi at this
Director of Food & Beverage Frederick Barbiere is at the
coveted Little Cottonwood Canyon resort. But you can also
heart of Snowbird’s exceedingly deep and diverse (more
indulge in a whole slew of other ways to get out onto the
than 1,200 different bottles) wine list. Barbiere also leverag-
snow at Snowbird, both within and just outside the resort
es his relationships with vintners from around the world to
boundary, including snowshoeing; heli skiing/snowboard-
present winemaker dinners, intimate evenings held twice
ing with Powderbird Helicopter Skiing (powderbird.com,
a month throughout the winter season at different resort
801-742-2800); snowcat skiing, backcountry touring and
restaurants.
avalanche education with Snowbird Guides (801-471-4387); and snowmobiling with Lofty Peaks (385-239-8196).
Everyone Knows Your Name
A “Moving” History Lesson
Beneath Snowbird’s Tram dock on level one of the Snow-
Sure, Snowbird’s tunnel from the top of the Peruvian
of Utah ski bars, the Tram Club. This sports/ski bum bar is
chairlift is an innovative way to get skiers from the resort’s
where many locals take après-ski refreshment in the form
dramatic Little Cottonwood
front side to its back bowls and groomers in Mineral Basin.
of $5 drink specials and spicy cheese fries at the end of the
Canyon to the Salt Lake
But how they used that 600-foot-long passageway to tell
day. Drop in here not only to get a dose of local culture but
Valley below. Amenities at
the story of the area’s mining history and resort develop-
also to catch a game on the big screen or, on the week-
The Cliff include an on-site
ment through photos and artifacts is what’s really smart.
ends, listen to live music.
bird Center is a bar affectionately known as the “Cheers”
ski rental and repair shop, complimentary guest ski lockers and a state-licensed daycare facility for kids as young as six weeks old.
1 While all abilities are at home at Snowbird, this resort is known for steep lines and ample snow. 2 Skiing on July 4, 2019. 3 The conveyor belt view inside the Peruvian Tunnel. 4 Taking a dip in The Cliff Spa’s decadent rooftop pool and hot tub. 5 Snowbird’s new SeventyOne Restaurant combines a funky atmosphere with great food. 6 Catching a ride with Powderbird Helicopter Skiing.
Of course no stay at Snowbird—or visit to Utah, for that matter—is complete without spending a little “me” time at The Cliff Spa. There you can work out the kinks with a massage or facial, rehydrate from the inside out in the eucalyptus steam room, take a swim or soak under the stars tub, find your Zen in a yoga class (the view from the yoga studio is just as awe-inspiring as it is from the guest rooms!) or simply sip a cup of tea and
D Matt Crawley
in the rooftop pool and hot
4
relax in the solarium.
New for 2019–20 Snowbird’s new restaurant, SeventyOne (located on the ground floor of The Cliff Lodge) serves mouthwatering, New American–themed dishes for breakfast, lunch and dinner against a fabulously funky 1970s-era interior design theme that pays homage to Snowbird’s 1971 founding.
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6 the greatest snow on earth
71
Brighton Resort Average annual snowfall: 500" Vertical: 1,875' Highest point: 10,500' above sea level Skiable acres: 1,050
T
he “soul of
of Big Cottonwood Canyon,
skiing” is an
Brighton is typically among
ambiguous
the snowiest resorts in the
phrase that’s tossed
state following each winter
around frequently
storm. Brighton also has
among the snow sliding
super-efficient access to said
tribe, but what does
snow: it’s the only Utah resort
it really mean? Well, if
with 100 percent of its runs
skiing’s so-called soul is
accessed by high-speed quads.
a place, we reckon that it would
And then there’s the terrain:
look and feel a lot like the
dense glades, wide-open
iconic Brighton Resort.
bowls, steeps and bump runs
There you’ll find no five-star
are all what’s in store there,
D Sean Ryan
Multi-resort Passes Accepted
1
lodges, ski valets to carry your
plus in line with its unofficial
gear or Michelin star–rated
tagline—where Salt Laker’s
its neighbor, Solitude Mountain
what “soul of skiing” means
cuisine. What Brighton does
learn to ski—younger kids and
Resort, via the SolBright Trail,
is focusing unapologetically
have to offer, however, is lots
beginners will find ample easy
offering access to another 1,200
on snow and terrain and
and lots of snow; with its
groomers to slide around on,
acres of skiing and riding for
maintaining a come-as-you-are
fortunate location at the top
too. Brighton is connected to
SolBright ticket holders. So, if
vibe, then Brighton is that.
1 Plentiful snow and lots of natural terrain features make Brighton particularly popular with snowboarders. 2 Both locals and visitors revel in the casual, oldschool vibe at Molly Green’s. 3 Multiple terrain parks, appropriate for beginner to advanced riders, can be found off of the Majestic and Crest Express chairlifts. 4 Deal alert: kids age 10 and under ski or ride for FREE at Brighton.
Jibber’s Playground D Chris Pearson
Long, undulating runs pocketed with plenty of natural features draw snowboarders to Brighton Resort from both near and far. It’s not all about what falls from the sky, either. Brighton’s manmade terrain park is often touted as one of the best in the West and is the only among Utah’s Cottonwood Canyon resorts.
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Après As It Was Meant to Be Stepping into Brighton’s A-frame base-area day lodge is a lot like stepping back in time: knotty pine paneling, taxidermy, beer signs and a huge stone fireplace make up the décor there. And if you’re looking for a craft cocktail or fondue, this is definitely not the place. Instead revel in après the way it was meant to be at Molly Green’s Pub with a cold draft beer and a mountainous platter of nachos.
To the Kids Go the Spoils D Sean Ryan
The management at Brighton loves families—especially kids—so
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much so in fact that up to two kids, age 10 and under, ski there for free—that’s gratis, nada, no dinero—with each pass-holding or
4
DISTANCE FROM SLC AIRPORT: 35 MILES
72 skiutah.com
paying adult, all winter long. Just go to the ticket window the day of your visit and the staff will happily set you up.
(801) 532-4731 BRIGHTONRESORT.COM
D Chris Pearson 1
Solitude Mountain Resort A
s ambiguous as the
facing ski or snowboard
experiential Solitude Yurt. And,
And Solitude will not
phrase “all things
vacation. In addition to sliding
when you go, be sure to carve
break the bank. While
to all people” may
Multi-resort Passes Accepted
Average annual snowfall: 500"
around on Solitude’s 80 runs,
out some “me time” for a visit
the best way to save
sound, the adage is an apt way
you can kick, glide and trek
to the Solitude Mountain Spa.
at Solitude is the Ikon
to describe Solitude Mountain
through lush pine and aspen
Resort. There, Big Cottonwood
tree stands along the resort’s
way to describe Solitude is to
rates there remain
Canyon’s craggy, glacier-carved
Nordic Center cross-country
explain what it is not. As the
about 30 percent less
peaks serve as the backdrop for
skiing and snowshoeing trails.
name suggests, Solitude is
than other resorts.
a quaint and cozy, European-
(Rentals and Nordic skiing
not crowded. You’ll gratefully
style base village with inviting,
instruction is also available.)
find plenty of room to roam on
New for 2019–20
not-too-fancy (i.e., nonstuffy)
Evening dining options range
Solitude’s scenic runs, which
A walk-up waffle window at the
lodging and all the necessities
from the well-executed St.
span wide-open groomers to
Moonbeam Lodge, complete
for a straightforward, outdoors-
Bernard’s to the memorably
knock-your-socks-off steeps.
with a toppings bar. Yum!
But probably the best
Pass, walk-up day ticket
Vertical: 2,494' Highest point: 10,488' above sea level Skiable acres: 1,200
1 The atmosphere at the quaint Solitude Village is appealingly intimate and low-key. 2 Solitude’s family-friendly groomed runs are complemented by coveted expert hike-to terrain including Highway to Heaven, Fantasy Ridge and Honeycomb Canyon. 3 The resort’s Nordic Center staff grooms 20K of track daily. 4 The curry fries is just one of the Roundhouse’s creative fusion dishes.
Two for You With the SolBright day ticket, not only do you get to slide around on Solitude’s 1,200 acres, but you also get to ski or ride Brighton Resort, which is connected to Solitude via the SolBrightTtrail.
Nordic Nirvana
2
It’s not all about the lifts at Solitude. The Solitude Nordic Center boasts 20 kilometers of both classic and skate skiing trails, groomed daily throughout the winter season. Or if you prefer walking, take a tour of 10 kilometers of snowshoeing trails, meandering through the towering and fragrant old-growth conifer trees between the Nordic Center and Solitude Village.
Cue the Curry Fries At Solitude’s funky mid-mountain restaurant, the Roundhouse, you can choose from hearty wintertime classics like chicken pot pie and burgers. But why would you when you can go for authentic Himalayan-inspired dishes like lamb curry, thukpa and naan? Or, better yet, dishes representing a fusion of the two? Our favorite
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DISTANCE FROM SLC AIRPORT: 33 MILES
late-afternoon ritual is sitting on the Roundhouse deck with a cold Utah microbrew and mounded plate of curry fries.
(801) 534-1400 SOLITUDEMOUNTAIN.COM
the greatest snow on earth
73
Average annual snowfall: 360" Vertical: 1,707′ Highest point: 11,307' above sea level Skiable acres: 650
W
hile skiing
deserved rep as one of the best
cold, fluffy
locales to learn to turn in the
snow
state. Diehard snow sliders are
against a stunning red
devoted to Brian Head as well,
rock desert backdrop
regularly making the short trip
may seem improbable
from Las Vegas or St. George
at best, that’s exactly
to play on the resort’s ample
what you’ll find at
rolling intermediate cruisers,
Utah’s southernmost ski
more challenging bump runs
and snowboard resort, Brian
and spectacular backcountry
Head. But unreal scenery and
skiing off of Brian Head
martini-dry powder snow is
Peak. And with Cedar Breaks
just the beginning.
National Monument closeby,
Brian Head’s excellent ski and snowboard school staff have taken advantage of the
D Mike Saemisch
Brian Head Resort
1
it’s easy to make a visit there part of your stay. If you’re looking to
healthy dollop of authentic
New for 2019–20
hospitality, plenty of elbow
The new high-speed Navajo
seemingly endless easy-going
experience a truly unique and
room and a welcome lack of
Express quad chairlift has
groomers on Navajo Mountain
affordable ski or snowboard
pretension, then Brian Head is
replaced the fixed-grip triple
to earn Brian Head a well-
getaway, served up with a
the place.
chair lift on Navajo Mountain.
1 Lodging is available at the Brian Head Resort base or nearby in Brian Head town. 2 The Kansas City–style pork ribs are a legendary Saturday night tradition at the Last Chair Saloon. 3 Brian Head is located within southern Utah’s picturesque Markagunt Plateau. 4 Learning from the pros at Brian Head.
Southern (Utah) Hospitality As the weekend approaches at Brian Head, both the smoker and locals get stoked for what’s become a much-anticipated weekly event: barbecue Saturday nights at Brian Head’s Last Chair Saloon. Choose from overloaded platters of Kansas City–style pork ribs, slow-smoked tri tip and much more. Don’t forget to order a pint of
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cold beer to wash it all down and to wear your dancing shoes—the Last Chair books bands every Saturday night as well.
Two for One While, of course, the skiing at Brian Head is the number one reason you need to visit there, you should certainly take some time to venture into nearby Cedar Breaks National Monument (visitcedarcity.com), located just three miles from the town of Brian Head. Snowmobiling, night sky viewing and snowshoeing are just a few of the activities available in this amazing landscape.
Up, Up & Away A big reason for all the snow Brian Head gets every year is its elevation. In fact, at 9,700 feet above sea level, not only is the town of
4
Brian Head (the resort’s de facto base village) the highest town in Utah, the post office there is one of the highest in the U.S.
DISTANCE FROM CEDAR CITY AIRPORT: 32 MILES, FROM LAS VEGAS: 200 MILES, FROM SLC: 245 MILES
74 skiutah.com
(435) 677-2035 BRIANHEAD.COM
D Adam Clark 1
Sundance Mountain Resort I
n 1969, actor and
trails; 5,000 acres of protected
be more than enough. But at
book signings with
environmentalist Robert
wilderness at the base of
Sundance, where the resort’s
nationally renowned
Redford purchased a
Average annual snowfall: 300"
the majestic, 12,000-foot
mission includes providing
writers and concerts
one-chairlift, one-rope-tow
Timpanogos Peak; two award-
“transformational experiences,”
with emerging Nashville
ski area at the top of Utah’s
winning restaurants; one of the
you’ll find much more.
singer/songwriters as
Provo Canyon then known as
most charming après-ski bars
Timp Haven. Today, in addition
you’ll find just about anywhere;
Art Studio range from journal
Cafe Concert Series.
to 42 ski and snowboard
a series of elegant cabins
making to silversmithing.
There’s so much to
runs, Redford’s rustically
to house overnight guests;
There guests can also watch
experience at Sundance,
refined Sundance Mountain
and an intimate spa. For any
resident glass blowers at work.
in fact, that one could argue
Resort spans 25 kilometers
other bespoke-level winter
Arts-focused events include
that skiing and snowboarding
of groomed Nordic skiing
retreat, all of the above would
Author Series’ readings and
are mere icing on the cake.
Classes at Sundance’s on-site
part of the Bluebird
Vertical: 2,150' Highest point: 8,250' above sea level Skiable acres: 450
1 Sundance’s 450 acres of ski slopes are surrounded by thousands more that are protected by a conservation easement. 2 Setting the stage for decompression at the Owl Bar. 3 Daily yoga sessions are included with your stay. 4 Preparing for take-off on the Sundance ZipTour.
Daily Dose of Zen Get your head in the right place for a day on the mountain with a morning meditation or yoga session. Or maybe you’d like to work out the kinks after a day of schussing? Sundance has you covered with afternoon restorative yoga as well. Both meditation and yoga classes are open to the public and are a complimentary perk for
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lodging guests.
Cocktail Hour of Fairytales Sundance’s Owl Bar is well known for its actual bar, which was moved there from a watering hole in Thermopolis, Wyoming, frequented by the actual Hole in the Wall Gang. But, bar withstanding, beyond cozy is the best way to describe this almost movieset-like enclave of rough-hewn log walls, wood-burning river rock fireplaces, antique photos and handmade wooden furniture.
Zippety Do! Yes, Sundance is the place in Utah to go to reflect, rejuvenate and get in touch with nature. But when you’re ready for a one-of-a-kind thrill, book yourself a ride on the Sundance ZipTour, which boasts more than 2,100 feet of vertical drop—the most of any zip line tour
4
in the United States.
DISTANCE FROM SLC AIRPORT: 55 MILES
(801) 225-4107 SUNDANCERESORT.COM
the greatest snow on earth
75
Average annual snowfall: 500" Vertical: 2,205' Highest point: 9,422' above sea level Skiable acres: 8,464*
T
o say Powder
Powder Mountain’s Horizon
Mountain has a
Neighborhood—a cluster of
lot going for it is
modern minimalist cabins
a vast understatement.
with unobstructed views of
It scores high on all the
the Eden Valley and the Great
typical measurements
Salt Lake—represent a preview
of the best mountain
of what the base village there
resorts: it’s close (20
will eventually look and feel
miles) to a metro area,
like, which has been described
Ogden, a city that has in
as a next-generation alpine
recent years taken huge leaps
town. Other features to come
forward in its culinary, nightlife
include a vehicle-free Main
and cultural offerings. It gets
Street lined with farm-to-table
tons of snow—500 inches per
restaurants, pop-up boutiques
year, on average. It’s big: 3,000
and co-working spaces. But
acres of lift-served terrain*
where Pow Mow, as the locals
plus 5,000 more accessed
call it, goes above and beyond
via snowcat and hiking. And
is, even in the midst of a buzzy
its owners are making huge
transformation, efforts are
investments in infrastructure.
being made to preserve its
Last year’s completion of
authentic, low-key vibe.
D Chris Pearson
Powder Mountain
1
1 Limiting season-pass and day-pass sales keeps Powder Mountain’s slopes deliciously uncrowded. 2 Live music at the Powder Keg. 3 The lifts at Powder Mountain access 3,000 acres while the snowcats deliver you to 5,000 more.
Elbow Room Aplenty Season-pass sales at Powder Mountain are capped at 3,000 annually, and only 1,500 day passes are sold per day, meaning that, when you consider Powder Mountain’s 8,000-plus acres, each skier or rider there has about three acres each. Purchase day tickets in advance to ensure your estate-sized spot on the mountain.
Brews & Tunes
2
The heart of the après-ski scene at Powder Mountain is the Powder Keg, where the popcorn is always free, located inside the Timberline Lodge. Look to the chalkboard menu for a rotating selection of Utah beers, tasty sandwiches, ramen and burgers. Ever shake your groove thing in ski boots? The Powder Keg is your chance, where live bands play five days a week.
The Wild White Yonder Sure, Powder Mountain’s 3,000 lift-served acres may be plenty for most. If you’re looking for a little more—and almost guaranteed fresh tracks—upgrade your day pass (just $20) for a single snowcat ride into Powder Mountain’s Raintree and Lightning Ridge areas. Choose from one of the three cats depending on the level of skiing or riding you’re after.
DISTANCE FROM SLC AIRPORT: 55 MILES * 8,464 acres of terrain accessible by chairlift, snowcats, shuttles and hiking.
76 skiutah.com
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(801) 745-3772 POWDERMOUNTAIN.COM
Snowbasin
A
1
long with the
Some resorts with
Park City resorts,
lavish base lodges seem
Snowbasin was a
to be making up for
venue for the 2002 Olympic
so-so skiing. Not the
Winter Games, a legacy still
case at Snowbasin.
evident in the international
The expert terrain
flags covering the sides of its
there—both lift-served
cylindrical Mt. Allen Tram. But
and hike-to—is on par
Average annual snowfall: 300"
since then, almost despite its
with other notable
Vertical: 3,000'
easy access, super-efficient lift
challenging resorts like
system and amazing terrain,
Taos and Crested Butte.
Snowbasin has managed to
There’s also plenty for
Highest point: 9,350' above sea level
maintain a slightly off-the-
intermediates to love
radar, best-kept-secret-status.
at Snowbasin, like the
Well, secret or not, what you’ll
long, sweeping cruisers
find at this Ogden-area resort
off the Strawberry Gondola,
is incredible skiing, a super
the seemingly endless options
family-friendly atmosphere
off the Needles Gondola
and 360 degrees of jaw-
and the newly widened and
dropping scenery.
picturesque Mt. Ogden Bowl
Ironically, Snowbasin often
D Chris Pearson
impression when guests visit
1 Snowbasin received measurable snowfall nearly every week of the 2018–19 winter season. 2 Good friends and great views on the deck at the John Paul Lodge. 3 Indulging in a little post-slope entertainment at the Cinnabar.
Skiable acres: 3,000
Road, accessed via the John Paul chairlift.
makes its first double-take
1
Multi-resort Passes Accepted
Other boxes checked by
the base-area Earl’s Lodge
Snowbasin include amazing
bathrooms. Italian marble
dining options, including its
countertops and bathroom
popular Dining Discovery
stalls, brass fixtures and
Series; a nationally recognized
chandeliers—yes, in the
ski and snowboard school;
bathrooms—will make you
terrain parks; and 26 kilometers
feel like you took a wrong
of groomed Nordic skiing trails.
turn and ended up in a Fifth Avenue hotel. The elegant
New for 2019–20
Lunch and Then Some
gestalt continues farther
Vail Resorts’ Epic Passholders
inside the lodge with thick
now get seven days of skiing
Sure, sweet views and ski resorts go together like peanut butter
carpets, oversized upholstered
at Snowbasin. Also, the Earl’s
and jelly, but there’s views and then there’s the view from the deck
furniture, stately stone
Lodge servery has been
at Snowbasin’s John Paul Lodge. There, while munching your own
fireplaces and views of the
revamped, there’s a new
personal pizza baked in a hardwood-fired oven, you can soak in the
mountain through enormous
family-friendly gladed area off
sweeping vistas of the Ogden Valley, Mount Ogden and Morgan.
floor-to-ceiling windows.
Wildcat Express and NASTAR
First Tracks, Guaranteed Ever wonder what it would be like to ski one of those private, country club–style resorts? Wonder no more. With a private all-day
And then there’s the skiing.
ski racing has returned.
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3
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or private morning ski or snowboard lesson, Snowbasin guests can request to bring along up to four friends for early access to the mountain from 8 to 9 a.m., a whole hour before the general public is allowed on the mountain.
Rock, Roll & Relax After a day exploring Snowbasin, there’s nothing like gliding into the elegant Cinnabar at Earl’s Lodge for a little post-slope decompression. Settle into one of the bar’s wingback chairs as you sip a Utah microbrew, glass of wine or cocktail and listen to free live music. And don’t worry about your kids being bored. While you relax, they can make laps just outside on the Littlecat Express lift.
DISTANCE FROM SLC AIRPORT: 45 MILES
(888) 437-5488 SNOWBASIN.COM
the greatest snow on earth
77
Beaver Mountain Multi-resort Passes Accepted
Vertical: 1,700' Highest point: 8,800' above sea level Skiable acres: 828
I
t’s hard to pinpoint
and snowboarding in the state. It all started when Harold
why people have such wistful
Seeholzer and his wife, Luella,
nostalgia for old-school
launched Beaver Mountain
ski resorts like Beaver
in 1939. Their son, Ted, took
Mountain. Maybe
over as general manager just
it’s the thin crowds,
before his father died in 1968.
affordable lift tickets
And then when Ted passed
or lack of high-end
away in 2013, his wife Marge
distractions that make time
and their children, Travis
spent on the snow play second
and Kristy Seeholzer and
fiddle. Or maybe it’s that
Annette (Seeholzer) and Jeff
increasingly rare personalized,
West, carried on managing
mom-and-pop touch
the resort. Last winter, the
beginning when you purchase
Seeholzers celebrated Beaver
your lift ticket. Well, at “the
Mountain’s 80th year of
Beav”—as it is affectionately
operation, making it the
known by regulars—you’ll
longest continuously family-
find all that and, thanks to
run ski resort in the U.S. “What
the mountain’s northeastern
our guests like about this place
exposure and well maintained
is that they are immediately
slopes, some of the best skiing
treated like family,” Marge says.
D Jay Dash
Average annual snowfall: 400"
1
Carving up the corduroy on one of Beaver Mountain’s buttery groomers. Stay in Beaver Mountain’s slopeside yurt for breakfast with the lifties followed by fresh tracks. 3 Marge Seeholzer’s smiling face is a friendly constant at the ticket window. 4 Try the Big Beav Double Bypass burger, if you dare. 1
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Wickets and Smiles Though General Manager is Marge Seeholzer’s official title at Beaver Mountain, each day of the winter season, from 7 a.m. to 4:30 p.m., you can find her at the post she first reported to when her late husband, Ted, became the Beav’s general manager—and first full-time employee—in 1970: selling tickets, answering questions and handing out smiles and an occasional hug at the resort’s ticket office window. “Only the groomers beat me here,” Marge says.
2
Cozy Slopeside Camping Have breakfast with the lifties and get first tracks at the Beav with a stay in the resort’s slopeside yurt. While the experience is definitely rustic, you can stoke your sense of adventure with a night in Beaver Mountain’s wood stove–heated Mongolian-style tent, located within steps of the “cook shack,” restrooms and showers.
D Raelene Davis
Burger Bliss Though Beaver Mountain’s dining options do not include highfalutin menu items like charcuterie, NiÇoise salads or even beer, what you will find there is this: the Big Beav Double Bypass Burger, a legendary sandwich stacked with two patties, cheese, bacon, barbecue sauce and French fries that’s as big as your head.
DISTANCE FROM SLC AIRPORT: 114 MILES
78 skiutah.com
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(435) 946-3610
SKITHEBEAV.COM
1
1
Eagle Point Average annual snowfall: 350" Vertical: 1,500' Highest point: 10,600' above sea level Skiable acres: 650
I
Woodward Park City
f you’re looking
groomers and a well-
for a more
thought-out terrain park to
affordable
steeps and powder-filled
and less crowded
tree glades for the more
alternative to a
adventurous. Bonus: kids
C
onveniently
include trampolines,
located between
foam pits, climbing,
Park City and Salt
parkour/ninja, a
Outdoor area: 61 acres
Lake City, just two miles
spring tumbling
Indoor area: 70,000 sf
east of Parley’s Summit off
floor and patented
Vertical: 349' Highest point: 6,812' above sea level
mega-resort in an
under six ski and ride free.
of Interstate 80 (at the site
training tools such
über-picturesque,
Additional lodging is in the
of the former Gorgoza Park)
as the Woodward
off-the-beaten-path
works, but with its current
is the brand new Woodward
ParkBoard™ and
location, then Eagle Point
capacity to sleep about 200
Park City, a world-class
Woodward ParkSkis™.
Resort is your place. Tucked
guests per night on site,
action-sports park created
high into southern Utah’s
on most evenings the vibe
to inspire and empower the
break, visitors can head into
rugged Tushar Mountain
at the intimate base area
next generation of action
the on-site espresso bar and
Range, this charming
more closely resembles a
athletes, 365 days and
cafeteria-style restaurant
resort’s 40-plus runs span
fun house party than your
nights a year.
with a liquor license. In
from beginner-friendly
typical hotel.
Scheduled to open in
When it’s time to take a
the summer, Woodward’s
November 2019, wintertime
outdoor areas will transform
Resort Takeover
outdoor activities offered
into a lift-served BMX
at Woodward’s first
dirt park, downhill and
For a blow-their-socks-off family reunion, wedding or business retreat,
location in Utah (other
slopestyle mountain biking
look no further than Eagle Point’s As You Wish program. After the hol-
Woodward facilities operate
park, paved and concrete
idays, the resort is open to the public Friday to Monday only, reserving
in Pennsylvania, Colorado,
paths for all-wheeled action
Tuesday–Thursday for private groups. The entire place is yours (rates
California and Mexico)
sports and an outdoor
start at $10,000) including lift tickets and gear rental for up to 200.
span 10 lanes of surface
parkour park. Choose from
Powder Fridays
lift-served snow tubing—
drop-in sessions or all-
including Utah’s longest
access day passes; expert
Because the lifts are open to the public on weekends only from January
tubing run at 1,250 feet—
coaching is also available
on, TGIF takes on a whole new meaning. With limited skiers to track out
and chairlift-serviced skiing
in all activities. Staying in
the midweek storms, conditions can be truly epic come Friday.
and snowboarding on
Utah for awhile? Check
Don’t Forget Your Swimsuit
groomed runs and in terrain
out Woodward’s exciting
parks. Indoor activities,
menu of multiday camps
Take an après-ski dip in the Hot Tub Garden at Canyonside Lodge.
housed in Woodward Park
and clinics. Woodward also
There, you can fully embrace this resort’s laid-back vibe in one of three
City’s new 70,000-square-
hosts birthday parties and
hot tubs, situated conveniently just outside the bar.
foot base camp facility, will
special events.
1 Proof that Powder Fridays rock. 2 The Hot Tub Garden at Canyonside Lodge awaits. 3 The Tushar Mountains’ Mt. Holly (11,999 feet) towers over Eagle Point.
1 Woodward Park City’s 61-acre action sports–focused campus. 2 The facility includes terrain parks for all levels. 3 A glimpse at Woodward’s indoor activities.
2
3
DISTANCE FROM SLC/LAS AIRPORT: 240 MILES (435) 438-3700 EAGLEPOINTRESORT.COM
2 DISTANCE FROM SLC AIRPORT: 27 MILES
3 (435) 658-2648 WOODWARDPARKCITY.COM
the greatest snow on earth
79
1
Nordic Valley Average annual snowfall: 300" Vertical: 1,000' Highest point: 6,400' above sea level Skiable acres: 120
W
hile
carpet access 22 runs. A
many ski
double chair takes skiers up
resorts
to much of the intermediate
1
3
Cherry Peak H idden away in
a refreshingly
the sweeping
nonintimidating
Average annual snowfall: 322"
Cache Valley,
and affordable
Vertical: 1,221'
just 20 minutes north of
destination for
the mountain as well as to
Logan and 75 minutes from
families and those
vibe, few pull it off
the terrain park, but Nordic
Ogden, is the charming
just getting into the
Highest point: 7,050' above sea level
as authentically as
Valley’s strong suit is its
Cherry Peak Resort. Owner
sport. But even if you
Nordic Valley. There,
tout an intimate,
and advanced terrain on
old-school kind of
Skiable acres: 200
beginner runs and stellar
John Chadwick began
already know how to
a bucolic, red-roofed barn
ski and snowboard school.
building this labor of love 18
ski or ride, making the quick
houses all base-area services,
An annual not-to-be-missed
years ago on property that
trip to Cherry Peak is well
from restrooms and lift
event is its New Year’s
had been in his family for
worth it. Other ways to play
ticket sales to equipment
Eve celebration, featuring
generations. This intimate
in the snow there include
rentals and the Grill—where
Utah’s “biggest New Year’s
mountain, with just one
sliding down the five-lane
you can still get a burger for
fireworks show” and followed
snug, log cabin–style base
tubing hill and taking part
under $10. On mountain,
by a family friendly party
lodge, three chairlifts
in Cherry Peak’s packed
three lifts and a magic
that goes until midnight.
and a magic carpet, is
events schedule.
Light It Up
On the Dark Side
While many resorts light a handful of runs, usually limited to beginner
All of Cherry Peak’s 200 acres—including terrain off the Summit lift
and intermediate slopes, only at Nordic Valley can you ski 100 percent of
and the terrain park—are lit and open for night skiing seven days a
the resort—all 22 runs—until 8 p.m., Monday through Saturday.
week. Evenings are actually a great time to improve your skiing or
Pocketbook Respite
snowboarding skills. Cherry Peak’s Snowsports school offers expert
As if skiing at Nordic Valley wasn’t affordable enough (holiday-period
in both skiing and snowboarding.
adult lift tickets cost about a third of what you’d pay at one of the
What Happens on the Mountain
instruction for first timers, groups, private lessons and women’s clinics
mega-resorts), for kids age seven and under, lift tickets are free.
Silly Sliding
Yes, with its mellow terrain and affordable lift tickets, Cherry Peak is
Not a skier? No problem! Just spitting distance from Nordic Valley’s lifts
to the kid-at-heart crowd with a packed winter events schedule that
you’ll find Wasatch Parc Tubing area (wasatchparc.com). There, surface
includes rail jams, concerts, DJ dance parties in the lodge, pond
tows eliminate the walk to the top of the hill. At the top, hop on your
skimming, slalom ski races and more. Outdoor concerts, the redneck
tube into one of three lanes and just try to keep from giggling.
waterslide, horseback riding and more are available in summer.
1 Nordic Valley’s base-area barn reflects the area’s agricultural vibe. 2 Taking a break on the sun-washed patio. 3 Nordic Valley’s neighbor, Wasatch Parc Tubing.
1 Cherry Peak’s charming log cabin base lodge. 2 Getting fresh tracks under the lights. 3 Skiing is not required at Cherry Peak, which also offers snow tubing.
2
a family favorite. But Cherry Peak also makes a huge effort to appeal
3 DISTANCE FROM SLC AIRPORT: 51 MILES
80 skiutah.com
(801) 745-3511
2 NORDICVALLEY.COM
DISTANCE FROM SLC AIRPORT: 99 MILES
3 (435) 200-5050
SKICHERRYPEAK.COM
How to
t e k c i T r u o Y t e G to The ski pass world is ever-changing. Passes are now valid not only in multiple states but various countries, too. Take a look at how you can make the most of your multi-resort passes in Utah and beyond.
Epic
epicpass.com UTAH DESTINATIONS: Park City Mountain Snowbasin FACTS: 2 Utah Resorts, 8 countries, 86 total ski resorts* New: Vail Resorts is offering the Epic Day pass where you can choose one to seven flexible days for up to 50 percent off.
Mountain Collective
mountaincollective.com UTAH DESTINATIONS: Alta Ski Area Snowbird FACTS: 2 Utah Resorts, 6 countries, 18 total ski resorts*
Ikon
ikonpass.com UTAH DESTINATIONS: Alta Ski Area Brighton Resort Deer Valley Resort Snowbird Solitude Mountain Resort FACTS: 5 Utah Resorts, 6 countries, 40 total destinations*
Ski City Super Pass skicity.com The Ski City Super Pass is your discounted lift ticket to Salt Lake’s four world-class resorts; Alta, Brighton, Snowbird and Solitude. Customize your pass for three to 10 days. The more days you buy, the more discounted it becomes. *Price starts at $300 and increases as you purchase more days.
Ride Yeti Pass
skiutah.com/yetipass
The Ski Utah Yeti Pass is perfect for those seeking to get a taste of Utah skiing across the state. For $649, the passholder receives a single day ticket to each of Utah’s 15 resorts, valid during the 2019/20 season.
5th and 6th Grade Passport skiutah.com/passport
Have a 5th or 6th grader? If so, you’ve hit the jackpot. With the Ski Utah 5th and 6th Grade Passport—which is just $45—fifth graders can ski or ride three times at each of Utah’s 15 resorts; sixth graders get one day at each. Plus, Passport holders get access to exclusive deals and discounts from Utah resorts and ski and snowboard shops. Simply apply online at skiutah.com/passport before you arrive in Utah to get the Passport. And proceed with the “I just saved some big bucks” happy dance!
Indy Pass D Chris Pearson
indyskipass.com
UTAH DESTINATIONS: Beaver Mountain
* At time of press
FACTS: 1 Utah Resort, 20 U.S. states, 35 total ski resorts*
the greatest snow on earth
81
Utah Resorts Sundance
Midway
HEBER
PARK CITY
Alta
Brighton
Deer Valley
Sundance
Snowbird
Solitude Park City Mountain
Kimball Junction
Woodward Park City INTERSTATE
80
INTERSTATE
80
Snowbasin INTERSTATE
84
Huntsville
Ogden Valley Eden
Powder Mountain
Beaver Mountain
Nordic Valley
Brigham City INTERSTATE
4 skiutah.com | 2015–16 82 3 skiutah.com
Cherry Peak
LOGAN
15
Welcome to Utah
Brian Head
10
CEDAR CITY
Eagle Point INTERSTATE
15
PROVO
Yearly average number of sunny days in Park City. (bestplaces.net)
Number of resorts you can ski in one day; learn more at skiutah.com/tour.
Number of local breweries and distilleries in Utah, and counting.
Yearly average number of inches of snowfall at Alta Ski Area.
Yearly average number of Utah Powder Days. (12"+ in 24 hours)
6
BEAVER
547
Utah Lake
229
Resorts less than an hour from SLC International Airport.
54 19
Adventure Outside the Lines Ski up to six resorts in one day while getting a taste of what lies outside the rope line
Sandy
INTERSTATE
Have you ever looked wistfully beyond a ski resort boundary, wondering what it would be like to ski the backcountry? Wonder no more. The Ski Utah Interconnect Tour gives advanced to expert skiers (age 16 and older) the opportunity to experience the magnificent beauty and incredible backcountry terrain of the Wasatch Mountain Range. Tours operate seven days a week, weather and conditions permitting. Participants will ski resort runs and the backcountry terrain between and through as many as six resorts in one day. Every tour is led by two guides trained in snow safety and backcountry etiquette. Cost is $430 per person, with lunch, transportation and finisher’s pin included. For details and to book, visit skiutah.com/interconnect.
SALT LAKE CITY INTERSTATE
Davis County County
Salt Lake City International Airport Great Salt Lake
INCHES
Bountiful
v
80
OGDEN
S
E N
1965–2019 ANNUAL SNOWFALL (Alta Ski Area)
750 700 650 600 550 500 450 400 350 300 250 200 150 100 50 0
60FOOT-TALL POWER LINE TOWER
20FOOT-TALL GIRAFFE
6FOOTTALL PERSON
1965 1966 1967 1968 1969 1970 1971 1972 1973 1974 1975 1976 1977 1978 1979 1980 1981 1982 1983 1984 1985 1986 1987 1988 1989 1990 1991 1992 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019
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the greatest snow on earth
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LODGE LIVING
A sneak peek at some of the season’s hottest new gear at one of Utah’s newest ski-in/ski-out lodges. photos by Chris Pearson styling by Hailey Klotz
A
sk any dedicated skier or snowboarder and they’re sure to tell you: sleeping within gliding distance of the slopes is the winter vacation gold standard. And it’s no wonder. Ski-in/skiout lodging ensures that your vacation itinerary falls into a blissful daily pattern of wake, click in, ride, glide, après and repeat. Last winter, we indulged our closeto-the-slopes fantasies at the Snowpine Lodge, a newly renovated luxury-level boutique hotel tucked into Utah's storied Little Cottonwood Canyon. In addition to reveling in the undeniable pleasures of a mountainside stay, we also got to try out the latest 2019-20 winter season apparel and ski gear from Eider, Hot Chillys, Hestra, Smith and Rossignol. Enjoy!
EIDER SPENCER PANT IN GHOST ($549)
84 skiutah.com
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2
3
4
5
7
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1. Smith Quantum helmet in matte white ($300) 2. Smith I/O Mag S goggle in metallic ink ($240) 3. Eider Squaw Valley jacket in red ($530) 4. Hestra Leather Fall Line glove ($160) 5. Linda Richards hat ($85) 6. Hot Chillys Flocked Heather zip-t in black heather dots ($55) 7. Hot Chillys Micro-Elite
Chamois print zip-t in horizon stripe ($90) 8. Smith Prospect Jr. helmet in matte purple ($130) 9. Smith Grom goggle in pink ($90) 10. Smith Code helmet in matte mystic green ($200) 11. Smith I/O Mag XL goggle in mystic green ($240) 12. Rossignol Experience 94 skis ($800)
10
8
11 9
12
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The Snowpine Lodge (pictured left, circa mid-1930s) is Alta’s lone remaining building with roots in Little Cottonwood Canyon's silver mining days. Originally constructed as part of the Bay City Mine, the building was converted for use as a general store and post office in the 1870s. The store operated until the 1929 stock market crash when the owner closed up shop and moved to California. In 1935, as lift-
served skiing began to take hold in Utah, the Civilian Conservation Core renovated the building to house overnight guests. Following completion of an extensive renovation in early 2019, the Snowpine’s granite foundation is all that remains of the original structure, a base that now supports 78 guest rooms, 19 dorm-style beds, Swen’s restaurant, the Gulch Pub, the Stillwell Spa and a heated outdoor pool and hot tubs.
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3 5
2
6
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9
86 skiutah.com
13 14 13 12
14 11
16
15
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1. Smith Quantum helmet in matte deep forest ($300) 2. Smith I/O Mag XL goggle in mystic green ($240) 3. Rossignol Soul 7 skis ($850) 4. Eider Camber jacket in wild lime ($460) 5. Smith Quantum helmet in matte white ($300) 6. Smith I/O Mag goggles in white ($240) 7. Rossignol Experience 88 W skis ($750) 8. Eider Danaide jacket in red ($460) 9. Eider Edge print pant in white camo ($190) 10. Hot Chillys Originals II print crewneck in harmony ($45)
18
11. Hot Chillys Mid-Volume Sock in Santa baby ($20) 12. Rossignol Alltrack Elite 120 ($750) 13. Rossignol Alltrack Pro 130 ($850) 14. Eider Ridge II beanie in dusk blue ($30) 15. Eider Double M Fleece jacket in red ($200) 16. Eider Arias Fleece Hoodie in white ($160) 17. Hot Chillys Micro-Elite Chamois print legging in bw rose ($75) 18. Eider Venosc hoodie in cameo rose print ($240) 19. Eider Venosc hoodie in black camo print ($280)
SOREL JOAN OF ARCTIC SHEARLING BOOTS IN COLLEGIATE NAVY ($220)
EIDER SPENCER PANT IN GHOST ($549)
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the greatest snow on earth
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2
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1. Smith Vantage helmet in matte charcoal ($260) 2. Smith Skyline XL goggle in klein blue ($190) 3. Eider M jacket in dusk blue ($650) 4. Hestra Fall Line Leather glove ($160) 5. Smith Mirage helmet in matte dusty lilac ($130) 6. Smith Skyline goggle in white ($190) 7. Eider Monterosa fur jacket in purple storm ($670) 8. Smith Level helmet in matte rise ($200) 9. Smith Skyline XL goggle in repeat ($190) 10. Smith Liberty helmet in matte smoky blue ($200) 11. Smith I/O Mag S goggle in smoky blue flood ($240) 12. Eider The Rocks print jacket in dark green camo ($330) 13. Ski Utah buff ($20)
14. Eider Milkrun jacket in dark night/true blood ($700) 15. Hot Chillys MicroElite chamois zip-t in navy ($80) 16. Hot Chillys Sweater Knit hoodie jacket in sideline ($150) 17. Hot Chillys Micro-Elite Chamois tights in cranberry ($65) 18. Hot Chillys Fiesta Socks in various prints ($22) 19. Linda Richards hat ($85) 20. Hot Chillys Micro-Elite Chamois crewneck in white ($65) 21. Hot Chillys Micro-Elite Chamois print legging in bw rose ($75) 22. Hot Chillys low-volume socks ($22) 23. Hot Chillys Micro-Elite Chamois zip-t in navy ($80) 24. Hot Chillys Micro-Elite Chamois print legging in icy peaks ($75)
15
SOREL JOAN OF ARCTIC SHEARLING BOOTS IN COLLEGIATE NAVY ($220)
EIDER SPENCER PANT IN GHOST ($549)
88 skiutah.com
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SUMMER
RETURNING FOR THE DIRT Fifteen two-wheel-fueled reasons to visit Utah in the summer by Sean Zimmerman-Wall
U
tah’s prolific
is mountain biking. You may
cornucopia of singletrack where
Wasatch Mountain resorts offer
snowfall is reason
already be familiar with the well-
pedalers revel in trails catering to
similarly stellar mountain biking
enough to plan a
known trail networks in Utah’s
all levels of riders. Park City was
trail systems. Following are 15
ski or snowboard
southern quadrant found in
ranked as the world’s first-ever
not-to-be-missed rides, from the
trip here during the winter. But
locales like Moab and St. George.
Gold-Level Ride Center by the
newbie appropriate to routes sure
another equally fulfilling draw
But within the state’s northern
International Mountain Biking
to appeal to the seasoned off-
that awaits once the snow melts
half is a world-renowned
Association. But almost all the
road connoisseur. Happy trails!
90 40 skiutah.com
D Rocko Menzyk
The Round Valley Trail System in Park City offers over 30 miles of multiuse trails for all skill levels. You’ll find doubletrack and flowy singletrack with beautiful views.
the greatest snow on earth
91
Easy-Does-It/ Intermediate Rides One of the Salt Lake Valley’s most
on Rusty Shovel sets you up for a
well-planned trail complexes is
scenic counter-clockwise loop back
Corner Canyon (20 miles south
to the car. The easy access of the Wheeler
cornercanyonstrails.com). Begin
Creek Trail (nine miles east of
climbing from the Draper
Ogden along Hwy 39 at the Art Nord
Equestrian Center trailhead for just
Trailhead, utahmountainbiking.
over a mile to the main junctions
com/trails/wheeler) and its
of Ann’s, Bonneville Shoreline and
straightforward navigation make it
Canyon Hollow. Cruise up Canyon
a classic warm up for some of the
Hollow to Ghost Falls for a fast and
other trails in the area. Wind up
flowy descent through Gambel oak
through the Middle Fork and pedal
groves along burbling creeks.
through aspen glades overlooked
Get an up-close glimpse at
by Snowbasin Resort’s peaks. Head
one of Utah’s most defining
to the north and finish with a
landmarks—the Great Salt Lake—
descent on the East Fork.
while pedaling the trails at the White Rock Loop at Antelope Island State Park (59 miles north of SLC via Interstate 15, stateparks.utah. gov). From the island’s White Rocks Bay Campground, a few miles of climbing brings you to a ridge overlooking the city, the Great Salt Lake and the towering peaks of the Wasatch Range. Be sure to keep an eye out for buffalo along the way, which roam the island freely. With its mostly southern exposure, the Park City-area’s 25-miles-plus Glenwild trail system is typically ready to ride early in the spring. From the Bad Apple Trailhead (2740 Rasmussen Rd, Kimball Junction, basinrecreation. org/trail/glenwild), ascend the 24/7 Trail toward the famed Flying Dog Loop, or practice your handling skills in Bob’s Basin. Once you’re warmed up, climb toward the Glenwild Loop and drop into wellgroomed singletrack that brings you back around to the trailhead. Miles of singletrack bisect Park City’s rolling Round Valley Trail System (300 Gillmor Way, mountaintrails.org/pc-trail-system/ round-valley), which is also an offleash dog area. For a casual start, ride up Rambler to Matt’s Flat. Or if you want to get your cardio up in a hurry, take on the short but punchy climbs like Nowhere Elks and Ramble On. A fast descent
92 skiutah.com
2
4
3 1 Wheeler Creek Trail winds over the creek and through thick forest—perfect for a hot day. 2 Glenwild offers trails for every skill level. 3 Change the mountain scenery for a desert oasis at Antelope Island. 4 This trail will have you saying wow. Literally. The W.O.W. trail features incredible vistas, berms, climbs and singletrack for just over nine miles. 5 Hop on a lift at Park City Mountain for quicker access to the best terrain. 6 Four flow trails at Deer Valley have beginner to advanced riders begging for more.
D Monique Beeley
of SLC, 1600 Highland Dr, Draper,
1
D Monique Beeley
SUMMER
Sticking to the slopes of Snowbasin
Deer Valley’s Silver Lake Lodge, this
Mountain Resort (20 miles from
21-mile trail forms the backbone
Ogden, utahmountainbiking.com/
of the Park City network and is
trails/sardine), the Sardine Peak
widely used to access other classics
Trail features perfectly placed
throughout the Park City area and
switchbacks for a medium-paced
beyond.
ascent to a saddle overlooking
The Coyote Canyons Trail, a
D Rocko Menzyk
Advanced-Level Pedals
Pineview Reservoir to the north
desert-like loop providing Ansel
and Mt. Ogden to the south. Take
Adams-quality views of the
a brief break and relish the views
Wasatch Back, is a great shoulder-
before strapping in for a fast, white-
season training ride. Starting at
knuckler descent.
Heber City’s Utah Valley University-
southsummitrails.org) wander over
Wasatch Campus (17 miles from Park
sagebrush-covered hillsides and
at Eagle Point Resort (19 miles
Mountain Bicycling Association
City, 3111 College Way, gohebervalley.
through aspen and pine stand,
from Beaver, 1040 N. Elk Meadows
Epic Ride, Park City’s Mid-
com/CoyoteCanyon), ascend a short
offering reprieve from the summer
Dr, eaglepointresort.com) provides
Mountain Trail (basinrecreation.
way to the Riverview trail and head
sun. Loops and descents peel off
a welcome escape from
org/trail/mid-mountain) delivers
north to Coyote Trail and climb to
the main climb at regular intervals
summertime heat and crowds.
leg-burning climbs and pulse-
the ridge crest before descending.
to make for a choose-your-own
A highlight of this little-known
adventure type of experience.
trail system is the Monarch Loop,
Listed as an International
quickening descents through
The trails at the High Star
some of Park City’s most
Ranch (17 miles east of Park City
recognized terrain. Starting from
in Kamas, 976 N. State Rd 32,
5
Tucked off the beaten path in southern Utah’s spectacular
Tushar Mountains, the singletrack
which winds through huge conifers and alpine wildflower meadows.
Attention Experts! This Dirt’s For You The quintessential Wasatch Crest
an instant classic. The fun begins
rollercoaster ride punctuated
Trail (41.5 miles from SLC through Big
from the top of Bald Mountain and
by long straightaways to regain
Cottonwood Canyon to Guardsman
takes cyclists through perfectly
your composure.
Pass, parkcitymountainbike.com/
manicured tabletops and berms.
wasatch-crest-trail) is a test of all
Each section has its own character
the abilities an expert rider must
and a short lift ride back to the top
City, brianhead.com), mountain
possess. Forested singletrack leads
allows you to hang ten all day long.
bikers will find the lift-accessed
to the aptly named “Puke Hill”
In the quaint Wasatch Back
Traveling south to Brian Head Resort (32 miles from Cedar
Timberline Trail to be quite a
climb. After you reach this 10,000'
hamlet of Midway is a hidden gem
challenge. The views of Cedar
high point, you have commanding
that is quickly becoming a fan
Breaks National Monument are
views in every direction as you work
favorite: Wasatch Mountain State
matched only by a formidable
your way toward the crux of the
Park’s Wasatch Over Wasatch
descent over several miles of
trail, known as The Spine. From here
(WOW) Trail (26 miles from Park City
demanding terrain. A quick chairlift
it’s a collection of worthy descents
on State Rd 222, utahmountainbiking.
ride on Giant Steps Express back
into Big Cottonwood Canyon, Mill
com/trails/wow). There aspen forest
to the top allows you to hone your
Creek Canyon or Park City.
gives way to open berms for a
skills again at will.
Snowbird’s iconic Tram allows for a 3,000-foot descent through the varied terrain the resort is known
6
for along the Big Mountain Trail (27 miles from SLC through Little Cottonwood Canyon, snowbird.com). Wide open rock-strewn slopes precipitate downward to a lush pine forest. Interspersed throughout the trail are huge berms and rollers that
D Adam Barker/UOT
make the technical ride playful. From the moment it was completed in 2015, Deer Valley Resort’s Tidal Wave Trail (Park City, accessed via the Silver Lake Express chairlift, deervalley.com) became
the greatest snow on earth
93
DEFINING THE STANDARDS OF REAL ESTATE DEVELOPMENT
Where the World Comes Together Sheraton Park City (noun) 1.Chic, urban loft meets classic ski lodge 2.multi-million dollar 2019 renovation 3. trusted, reliable service Park City, UT (noun) A mountain town with distinction, a dash of Aspen, a hint of Vail and frosted with the greatest snow on earth! @ParkCitySheraton
From $189/night
For reservations, call 800.325.3535 or visit www.sheratonparkcity.com
Sheraton Park City 1895 Sidewinder Dr. Park City, UT 84060 T 435 649 2900
@PCSheraton
Š2019 Marriott International, Inc. All Rights Reserved. All names, marks and logos are the trademarks of Marriott International, Inc., or its affiliates.
94 skiutah.com
@PCSheraton
COMING SOON TO UTAH
Where to Stay/Alta–Snowbird
Snowbird Cliff Lodge
Alta Peruvian Lodge
Alta Lodge
Enjoy ski-in/ski-out convenience and excellent service at The Cliff Lodge. Within walking distance to Snowbird’s pedestrian village, The Cliff Lodge offers comfortable lodging for the whole family. An on-site ski rental/repair shop and complementary ski lockers add to the convenience of the hotel. Recently renovated, the rooftop pool at The Cliff Spa features breathtaking mountain views, radiant-heated decks, gas-fed fire pits and expanded outdoor seating areas.
Relax in our outdoor heated pool and two hot tubs after a spectacular day of skiing. Three meals per day, masterfully prepared and served in our elegant dining room, are included with our lodging packages. You’ll enjoy the atmosphere of our bar and the convenience of our gift shop, ski rental and repair shop and self-service laundry. End your day by enjoying one of our roaring fires, taking in a movie, or simply planning the next day’s adventure!
"The Ultimate Ski Lodge” – Forbes. Alta Lodge offers a classic ski vacation with chef-prepared meals, a traditional lodge atmosphere and a perfect ski-in/ski-out location. Enjoy après-ski in the Sitzmark bar or a soak in the hot tubs with incredible mountain views. Families love our complimentary Kids’ Club with supervised after-skiing activities. Nightly lodging rates include a full breakfast and a four-course dinner. Experience excellent service, fine dining, comfortable accommodations, and the ease of an authentic Alta ski vacation!
800-232-9542 snowbird.com
800-453-8488 altaperuvian.com
800-707-2582 altalodge.com
REAL. ROOTED. REFINED. Alta’s leading luxury resort and ski club 10420 Little Cottonwood Rd, Alta, UT 84092 reservations@snowpine.com | 801-742-2000 | www.snowpine.com the greatest snow on earth
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Luxury Rentals/Deer Valley
Montage Deer Valley
The St. Regis Deer Valley
Stein Eriksen Lodge
An authentic yet refined mountain retreat located less than five minutes from Park City’s celebrated Main Street, and just 38 miles from Salt Lake City International Airport, Montage Deer Valley offers unrivaled ski‐in/ski‐out access to one of America's best ski resorts, the largest spa in Utah, five inspired dining options including a pub with its own bowling alley, along with amazing year‐round activities including hiking, mountain biking, golf, outdoor concerts and fly‐fishing.
Stay exquisite. Only 40 minutes from SLC International Airport, The St. Regis Deer Valley offers effortless access to the renowned trails of Deer Valley Resort®, with attentive ski valets to manage your gear so you can enjoy The Greatest Snow on Earth®. Recipient of Wine Spectator’s Best of Award of Excellence, and AAA’s coveted Four-Diamond Award. From first tracks to nightcaps, The St. Regis Deer Valley will delight skiers and connoisseurs worldwide.
Stein Eriksen Lodge is an authentic European resort nestled in the alpine beauty of Park City, Utah, and surrounded by spectacular views of Deer Valley. Named after Norwegian Olympic gold medalist Stein Eriksen, the Lodge has built its reputation on impeccable service, world-class skiing, and access to outdoor recreation. At Utah’s only Forbes Five-Star hotel and spa, guests experience the best ski-in/ski-out access, award-winning dining, indulgent spa treatments, and entertaining après, making Stein Eriksen Lodge the premier year-round resort.
888-604-1301 montagedeervalley.com
435-940-5700 marriott.com/slcxr
800-453-1302 steinlodge.com
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Where to Stay/Park City
Hyatt Centric Park City
Park City Peaks Hotel
Hotel Park City
AAA Four-Diamond Resort, ideally located slopeside with a dedicated "Sunrise" chairlift offering true ski-in/ski-out access. Accommodations include deluxe guest rooms, one- to four-bedroom residences with large living/dining area, and full-size kitchen and fireplace in every room. Enjoy the Escala Provisions Company serving breakfast, lunch, dinner and après-ski with a full-service bar. Stop by Escala marketplace offering specialty coffee, all-day dining and grocery items. Complimentary scheduled winter transportation to historic Main Street.
Park City Peaks Hotel is a welcoming, independently run mountain-modern resort-style hotel. Newly renovated, the 127room hotel offers guests convenient access to all Park City has to offer, plus an array of enjoyable guest amenities including a picturesque indoor/outdoor pool and a wellequipped fitness center. Also located on-site, Versante Hearth + Bar is known for its woodfired pizza and inventive cuisine. Located just 35 minutes from Salt Lake City International Airport.
Hotel Park City invites you to discover where luxury meets the alpine warmth and charm of an old-world ski lodge. The property has proudly been rated a “Top Ski Hotel” by Condé Nast Traveler. Each suite features a fireplace, king-size beds, jetted tubs and a private balcony with views of the ski mountains and heated outdoor pool. Enjoy our full-service spa and two signature restaurants. Hotel Park City is a proud member of the Marriott Autograph Collection.
800-233-1234 parkcity.centric.hyatt.com
800-649-5012 parkcitypeaks.com
435-200-2000 hotelparkcity.com
Waldorf Astoria Park City
Park City Lodging, Inc.
The Lowell
At Waldorf Astoria Park City, discover a thrilling adventure vacation or tranquil retreat with an on-property restaurant and awardwinning spa. Unwind in the comfort of one of 160 unique guest rooms and spacious residences, offering custom-designed furnishings and grand fireplaces. This hotel is located at the largest ski resort in the U.S., Park City Mountain, offering easy access to over 7,300 acres of mountain terrain via the Frostwood Gondola, situated just steps from the hotel.
Park City Lodging has been creating memorable mountain vacations since 1984. Our unique collection of private homes and condominiums are located just steps from the best skiing, shopping, dining and nightlife. Our local experts will help you choose the perfect home for your vacation, whether you prefer the action of Main Street, the ambience of Deer Valley Resort®, the convenience of Park City Mountain’s base areas, or a quiet luxury retreat. Call our destination specialists for exclusive deals on lodging.
The Lowell offers a new mountain contemporary ski-in/ski-out boutique condominium experience at the base of Park City Mountain, offering two- and threebedroom condominiums and two fourbedroom penthouse condominiums each over 3,400 sq. ft. Units feature gourmet kitchens with Wolf, Subzero, Asko, wine coolers, and Keurig one-cup coffee machines. Amenities include daily maid service, complimentary high-speed internet access, fitness center, spa, underground parking, and on-site ski and snowboard rental shop and equipment storage.
435-647-5500 waldorfastoriaparkcity.com
888-361-0705 parkcitylodging.com
888-PARK-CITY thelowellparkcity.com
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Where to Stay/Park City–Sundance
Park City Rental Properties
Identity Properties
Sundance Resort
Planning a vacation to picturesque Park City? If so, you deserve only the best and Park City Rental Properties is here to provide just that. Park City Rental Properties is honored to have been voted “Best Vacation Rental Service” 5 years running. We boast some of the most beautiful and well-managed vacation rental properties in Park City/Deer Valley and our customer service is second to none. Please reach out and allow our team to make your vacation memorable, no matter the occasion.
Identity Properties offers a distinctive collection of resort lodging throughout the Park City area. Locally owned and operated for over 39 years, our convenient locations are of the best that Park City has to offer. Our amenities include on site check-in offices, outdoor heated pools, hot tubs and complimentary Wi-Fi access at most locations. Whether you're looking for a cozy, intimate inn or a ski-in/ski-out condominium for your next getaway, make Identity Properties your home away from home.
Stay at Sundance Mountain Resort to escape the crowds and experience true rustic elegance! Our private cabins and lodging are situated below the tree line to ensure privacy and idyllic views. Rooms are just a short walk from the ski mountain, Art Studio, Spa, and award-winning restaurants. With options ranging from standard rooms, to suites, or entire homes, Sundance can accommodate any group or family size.
435-571-0024 parkcityvacationrentals.com
800-245-6417 ext 2 pclodge.com
801-225-4107 sundanceresort.com
PA R K C I T Y, U TA H
ADVENTURE. ELEVATED. SAVE 10% WHEN YOU PURCHASE ONLINE!
WINTER BOBSLED EXPERIENCE
U TA H O LY M P I C L E G AC Y.O RG
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Marketplace
Ogden & Layton
roostersbrewingco.com
RATED #1
888-304-7669 WWW.POWDERUTAH.COM
Ski up to SIX resorts in a day on the Ski Utah Interconnect Tour
SPEC AW E I A L I Z I N S G S I N CO M E N E S I N E 20 S 08
Skis/Snowboards Rentals & Demos Apparel Accessories -Tune/Repair
skiutah.com/interconnect
1825 Three Kings Dr. Park City, Utah SilverStarSkiandSport.com
the greatest snow on earth
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D Rocko Menzyk
skier: Davis Lentz
PARTING SHOT
711 inches of snow
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191 days of skiing
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Snowbird, Utah July 4, 2019
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Skiing on July 4th
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S E E W H AT L I E S
BETWEEN SEASONS
As summer fades into fall, the Utah desert transforms. The temperature drops and people disperse. You might find yourself on an expansive vista, in the midst of a slot canyon, or in a giant valley— with nothing but the gentle sounds of open space around you.
V I S I T U TA H . C O M the greatest snow on earth
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A DIFFERENT ADVENTURE EVERY DAY. No other ski destination gives you more. World-class ski resorts and a seemingly limitless number of bars, brewpubs, sporting events, museums, restaurants, food trucks, and concerts – you’ll find the adventure you’re looking for. Welcome to Salt Lake. Welcome to Ski City. PLAN YOUR TRIP AT SKICITY.COM» 4 skiutah.com