Roark hanoi zine by pilotfishbiarritz

THE ROARK REVIVAL VOLUME 10

STRANGE DAZE IN A HANOI HAZE

FORWARD Word s

b y

RYA N

H I T Z E L

Ry a n is the Founder and Creative Director of the Ro a rk Re v i v a l . H e â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s s pent his life bri nging back his experience from t ra v e l i n g a n d a r t i c ulating it throug h photography, fine art and wo rd s.

MYTHS, RUMORS, LEGENDS & LIES

A R E V I VA L I S T P U B L I C AT I O N

VIETNAM

THE ROARK REVIVAL VOLUME 10

MYTHS, RUMORS, LEGENDS & LIES

A R E V I VA L I S T P U B L I C AT I O N

STRANGE DAZE IN A HANOI HAZE

VIETNAM

THE ROARK REVIVAL VOLUME 10

STRANGE DAZE IN A HANOI HAZE

THE IMPERMANENCE OF ALL THINGS Chapter

At t h e b e g i n n i n g o f F a l l , w hen the summer long

I went to the G eneral Post O ffice.

m o n s o o n s e a s o n b r e a t h e s its last, those of us

two centuries that tow er w as the tallest building

wh o m a k e o u r h o m e i n K a thmandu, have a br ief

in Nep al until, in a matter of seconds it, along

re s p i t e fr o m t h e c l e a n s i n g r ains ar e able to enjoy

with m any more ancient and venerable structures,

t h e fre s h l y s c r u b b e d s t r e e t s of our adopted city.

was r educed rubble. O nly the base remains as a

B u t , wi t h t h e c h a n g e o f s easons, the cooler, dr y

r emind er of the capriciousness of nature and the

we a t h e r b r i n g s w i t h i t t h e ver y thing that many

imper manence of all things.

o f u s h a ve t r a v e l e d h a l f way acr oss the wor ld

this theme w hen, one fine fall day, I w ent to the

t o e s c a p e ; b a c k - p a c k l a d e n emissar ies f r om the

post office to check on the mail.

For almost

I w as reflecting on

We s t e rn c o u n t r i e s w i t h f r eshly stamped visas. It h e ra l ds t h e i m m i n e n t ar r ival of our biggest

A weather-beaten envelope aw aited me. In the

e x i s t e n t i a l t h r e a t ; t h e t o u rist season is upon us

upper right hand corner there w as a stamp: a

a n d o u r dr e a d e d d o u b l e , o u r shadow, ar r ives

yellow star against a red background. The paper

Roar k ’s in v ita tio n c a me a t th e rig h t time . Sta s is

d o w n riv e r to its e n d , in th e B a y o f B e n g a l, th e

en masse.

was still damp and, although the ink w as smudged,

had s e t in . I h a d n o id e a w h a t la y in s to re fo r me ,

mo s t n o rth e a s te rn p a rt o f th e In d ia n O c e a n , a n d

the name by w hich I am know n to all but a few

in a c o u n try th a t I, a lo n g w ith a g o o d n u mb e r o f

b e y o n d . J u s t h o w fa r th o s e c u rre n ts c a rrie d h im, I

tr usted souls here in the Valley of K athmandu,

my c o n te mp o ra rie s , to o k g re a t me a s u re s to a v o id .

h a d n o w a y o f k n o w in g u n til I re c e iv e d th a t le tte r,

appear e d clearly enough for me to claim it as my

But th a t w a s in th e p a s t a n d it w a s n o t th e U n c le

v ia p o s t re s ta n te , in d ic a tin g th a t th e c u rre n ts u p o n

own, f ollow ed by “post restante K atmandu.”

Sam w h o w a s c a llin g me b u t th e o n e p e rs o n I

w h ic h h e d rifte d to o k h im to th e So u th C h in a Se a .

It i s t h e n a t u r a l o r d e r o f t hings that people pass i n a n d o u t o f y o u r l i f e n e ver to r etur n.

But lif e

– a n d l i fe i n N e p a l - t e a c h e s you to expect the u n e x p e c t e d . I a m r e m i n d e d of that each time I pass

w oul d tru s t w ith my life , e v e n th o u g h h e w a s a ls o

t h ro u g h th e S u n d h a r a d i s t r ict wher e, f or year s, I

the on e p e rs o n I c o u ld mo s t ima g in e p u ttin g my

u s e d t h e B h i m s e n To w e r as a beacon whenever

life a t ris k . Roar k , b y h is v e ry n a tu re , le ft a s tro n g imp re s s io n , but t h e o n e la s tin g ima g e I h a d o f h im, fix e d in my min d , w a s o f R o a rk s ta n d in g o n a H ima la y a n slope , w ith th e w h o le N o rth In d ia Pla in b e lo w him, w ith h is p riz e d s u rfb o a rd tu c k e d u n d e r o n e arm, w a v in g g o o d b y e w ith h is fre e h a n d . H is huge , mis c h ie v o u s g rin s e e me d to lin g e r lo n g after h e p a s s e d , lik e th a t o f th e C h e s h ire C a t, as Ro a rk b e g a n h is d e s c e n t to w a rd s Va ra n a s i, that g re a t In d ia n c ity b u ilt o n th e b a n k s o f th e G ang e s . I ima g in e d R o a rk s lip p in g in to th e h o ly w ate rs a s trid e th e s u rfb o a rd h e h a d tra v e le d s o far to re trie v e a n d le ttin g its c u rre n ts c a rry h im

MYTHS, RUMORS, LEGENDS & LIES

A R E V I VA L I S T P U B L I C AT I O N

VIETNAM

THE ROARK REVIVAL VOLUME 10

Cha p t e r

2 :

STRANGE DAZE IN A HANOI HAZE

THE GARDEN OF DREAMS

A s I le ft th e Po s t O ffic e , I fo u n d my s e lf d ra w n to th e Th a me l D is tric t, w h e re I firs t w itn e s s e d R o a rk ’s in s a tia b le th irs t, n o t ju s t fo r a lc o h o l – w h ic h h e d o w n e d in a la rmin g ly c o p io u s a mo u n ts - b u t fo r e x p e rie n c e . I d e c id e d to s e e k re fu g e fro m th e h o n k in g h o rn s a n d min g le d o d o rs o f s w e a t a n d p e tro l th a t o v e rp o w e re d my s e n s e s , in Th e G a rd e n o f D re a ms . It s e e me d a n a p p ro p ria te p la c e to c a tc h u p o n w h a t my in tre p id frie n d , th e ro g u is h R o a rk , w a s u p to . I fo u n d a n u n o c c u p ie d b e n c h a n d , s e ttin g a ll o th e r ma il a s id e , e a g e rly to re in to th e e n v e lo p e w ith th e s ta mp o f U n c le H o . In s id e w a s a o n e -w a y tic k e t fro m K a th ma n d u to H a n o i a n d a h u rrie d ly s c rib b le d n o te . Th e h a n d w ritin g w a s b a re ly le g ib le , w h ic h ma d e me w o n d e r if th is w a s s o me h a re -b ra in e d id e a o f h is , d ru mme d u p u n d e r th e in flu e n c e o f s tro n g s p irits . Th e me s s a g e w a s b rie f, to th e p o in t. It re a d : “ M e e t y o u a t lu g g a g e c la im. Ex p la in la te r. R o a rk . ”

MYTHS, RUMORS, LEGENDS & LIES

A R E V I VA L I S T P U B L I C AT I O N

VIETNAM

THE ROARK REVIVAL VOLUME 10

STRANGE DAZE IN A HANOI HAZE

R o a rk , b y h is v e ry n a tu re , le ft a s tro n g imp re s s io n , b u t th e o n e la s tin g ima g e I h a d o f h im, fix e d in my min d , w a s o f R o a rk s ta n d in g o n a H ima la y a n s lo p e , w ith th e w h o le N o rth In d ia Pla in b e lo w h im, w ith h is p riz e d s u rfb o a rd tu c k e d u n d e r o n e a rm, w a v in g g o o d b y e w ith h is fre e h a n d . H is h u g e , mis c h ie v o u s g rin s e e me d to lin g e r lo n g a fte r h e p a s s e d , lik e th a t o f th e C h e s h ire C a t, a s R o a rk b e g a n h is d e s c e n t to w a rd s Va ra n a s i, th a t g re a t In d ia n c ity b u ilt o n th e b a n k s o f th e G a n g e s . I ima g in e d R o a rk s lip p in g in to th e h o ly w a te rs a s trid e th e s u rfb o a rd h e h a d tra v e le d s o fa r to re trie v e a n d le ttin g its c u rre n ts c a rry h im d o w n riv e r to its e n d , in th e B a y o f B e n g a l, th e mo s t n o rth e a s te rn p a rt o f th e In d ia n O c e a n , a n d b e y o n d . J u s t h o w fa r th o s e c u rre n ts c a rrie d h im, I h a d n o w a y o f k n o w in g u n til I re c e iv e d th a t le tte r, v ia p o s t re s ta n te , in d ic a tin g th a t th e c u rre n ts u p o n w h ic h h e d rifte d to o k h im to th e So u th C h in a Se a .

SWEPT AWAY B Y S T R O N G CURRENTS Chapter

MYTHS, RUMORS, LEGENDS & LIES

A R E V I VA L I S T P U B L I C AT I O N

VIETNAM

THE ROARK REVIVAL VOLUME 10

STRANGE DAZE IN A HANOI HAZE

C hapter

HO CHI MINH TRAIL O n th e a p p o in te d d a y I w a s a t B ira tn a g a r A irp o rt b o a rd in g a flig h t b o u n d fo r In d o c h in a . A s th e p la n e lifte d o ff, I w a tc h e d th e c ity o f K a th ma n d u re c e d e in th e d is ta n c e u n til s o o n a ll I c o u ld s e e w a s th e w h ite s n o w -c a p p e d p e a k s o f th e H ima la y a n ra n g e . I d id n o t h a v e a c lu e w h a t la y in s to re fo r me b u t, a fte r a lo n g la y o v e r in K u a la Lu mp u r, w e w e re u p in th e a ir a g a in , e n te rin g Vie tn a m’s a ir s p a c e a n d th e d ire c tio n s w e re g iv e n to p re p a re fo r la n d in g . I g a z e d a t th e v e rd a n t R e d R iv e r D e lta u n til H a n o i c a me in to v ie w a n d I re a liz e d th a t th is w a s mu c h th e s a me v ie w a s th a t s e e n b y th e p ilo ts o f B -5 2 s a n d F-8 fig h te r je ts a s th e y p u mme le d th e c a p ito l c ity o f N o rth Vie tn a m. Th in g s h a d c h a n g e d s in c e th e n . Th e re w a s n o b a rra g e o f So v ie t-ma d e SA M s to g re e t u s a n d H a n o i w a s n o w th e c a p ito l o f a u n ifie d Vie tn a m. O n th e g ro u n d a t N o i B a i A irp o rt, I s e a rc h e d th e c ro w d s fo r R o a rk . Se v e ra l ta x i d riv e rs a g g re s s iv e ly v ie d fo r my b u s in e s s . Th e c ro w d s th in n e d a n d I b e g a n to w o n d e r if my d e c is io n to h o p o n a p la n e a t R o a rk ’s b id d in g w a s n o t o n ly imp e tu o u s b u t a ls o fo o lis h , w h e n , to my g re a t re lie f, R o a rk a p p e a re d a n d , c la s p in g me in a b e a r h u g . “ We lc o me to Vie tn a m, ” h e s a id .

MYTHS, RUMORS, LEGENDS & LIES

A R E V I VA L I S T P U B L I C AT I O N

VIETNAM

THE ROARK REVIVAL VOLUME 10

C h a pt er

STRANGE DAZE IN A HANOI HAZE

URAL

R o a rk h oi s t e d m y b a g o v e r his shoulder and led

swear ing at his broken dow n motorcycle. “I

m e o u t o f t h e t e r m i n a l , p a s t a phalanx of solicitous

suppose the G ermans make a more reliable bike

t a x i d ri v e r s . “ H a v e y o u b e e n in Vietnam all this

than the Royal Enfield,” I said.

t i m e , ” I a s k e d . “ N O Y F B ” he r eplied. “What’s

“T his is R ussian-made,” said Roark. “A U ral

t h a t ? ” I a s k e d . “ D o n ’t a s k t w ice.” he bar ked back.

650. T his baby w ould have handled those hills

R o a rk s t op p e d b e s i d e a m o t o r cycle with a sidecar,

beautifully –even w ith the side car. H op in.”

l i k e t h e o n e s y o u s e e We h r macht off icer s r ide in, i n Wo rl d Wa r I I m o v i e s . “ W hat is this?” I asked.

I f elt a little foolish but I had no choice. I climbed

“ Ou r t ra n s p o r t a t i o n , ” h e r e plied.

into the sidecar and braced myself as R oark let out

At fi rs t I t h o u g h t t h a t R o a r k was having me on,

clutch and w e lurched into the traffic and headed

b u t i t s o o n b e c a m e e v i d e n t that he was ser ious.

into the heart of the capital city of Vietnam.

M y i n t ro d u c t i o n t o R o a r k came to mind, when I e n c o u n t e r e d h i m b y t h e side of the r oad in Ka t h m a n d u ,

mud-caked

and

dust- cover ed,

ALTHOUGH UNPOPULAR IN THE NORTH, “SAIGON SPECIAL” WAS ROARK’S BEER OF CHOICE

THE SIDE CAR IS POSSIBLY THE ROUGHEST RIDE ONE CAN EXPERIENCE ON A MOTORCYCLE. TRY IT FOR 400 HUNDRED MILES ON DIRT ROADS.

MYTHS, RUMORS, LEGENDS & LIES

A R E V I VA L I S T P U B L I C AT I O N

VIETNAM

THE ROARK REVIVAL VOLUME 10

STRANGE DAZE IN A HANOI HAZE

Chapter

MYTHS, RUMORS, LEGENDS & LIES

A R E V I VA L I S T P U B L I C AT I O N

VIETNAM

SEA LEVEL

It w a s n ig h tfa ll b y th e time w e re a c h e d th e c ity. I

c o lo n ia l s ty le . I w a s a ls o s tru c k b y h o w mu c h

w as s u rp ris e d b y h o w ma n y o f th e g ra n d b u ild in g s

c o n s tru c tio n w a s g o in g o n a n d th e n u mb e r o f

in the Fre n c h c o lo n ia l s ty le s u rv iv e d th e e x te n s iv e

mo d e rn h ig h ris e b u ild in g s th a t to w e re d o v e r th e

bomb in g d u rin g w h a t th e Vie tn a me s e c a ll Th e

c ity s c a p e . H a n o i w a s h a v in g a c o n s tru c tio n b o o m.

A meric a n Wa r. R o a rk s h o u te d o u t th e n a me s o f

Th e s tre e ts w e re c ro w d e d w ith b ic y c le s , s c o o te rs ,

diffe re n t n e ig h b o rh o o d s , p o in te d o u t imp o rta n t

c a rs a n d mo to rc y c le s , in c lu d in g th e u b iq u ito u s

buildin g s , b u t mo s t o f it w a s lo s t to me in th e d in

U ra ls . Th e R u s s ia n s h a d d o n e w e ll d o in g b u s in e s s

of tra ffic a n d th e w in d ru s tlin g th ro u g h me e a rs .

w ith th e ir fo rme r c lie n t a n d C o ld Wa r p ro x y.

We tra v e le d d o w n n a rro w s tre e ts lin e d w ith

I re a liz e d it h a d b e e n a lo n g time s in c e Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d c o me

Europ e a n s ty le b u ild in g s . I n o tic e d th a t ma n y o f

d o w n o ff th e mo u n ta in a n d , a fte r d o in g a c o u p le o f

them h a d th e s a me c o lo r s c h e me ; th e b u ild in g s

la p s a ro u n d th e H o C h i M in h ma u s o le u m, I ju mp e d

had re d tile ro o fs , a n d w e re p a in te d th e c o lo r o f

a t R o a rk â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s s u g g e s tio n th a t w e g ra b a d rin k . We

ranci d b u tte r, a c c e n te d w ith g re e n s h u tte rs . R o a rk

th e n h e a d e d in to th e h e a rt o f th e o ld q u a rte r w h e re

point e d o u t s o me ma g n ific e n t b u ild in g s in th e

my Vie tn a me s e a d v e n tu re w ith R o a rk w o u ld b e g in .

THE ROARK REVIVAL VOLUME 10

STRANGE DAZE IN A HANOI HAZE

C hapter

THE GOLDEN BOUGH

We en te re d a q u ie t b a r w ith o n ly a fe w c u s to me rs

A me ric a n s , a g a in s t H o

sippin g th e ir d rin k s s ile n tly a t th e b a r. Th e ro o m

a lo n g s id e th e Fre n c h b e fo re th a t.

w as q u ie t e x c e p t fo r th e s o u n d o f a ra d io p la y in g

“ Th e y mu s t re a lly h a te c o mmu n is ts , ” I s a id .

pop mu s ic in a b a c k ro o m. R o a rk c o n v e rs e d w ith

“ N o , th e y h a te Vie tn a me s e . Th e y ’v e b e e n a t w a r

the p ro p rie tre s s in a la n g u a g e th a t u tte rly fo re ig n

fo r a th o u s a n d y e a rs . ”

C h i M in h ’s fo rc e s , A n d

to me . “ W h a t w e re y o u , tw o ta lk in g a b o u t, ” I asked.

R o a rk h a d b e e n s ta y in g in a lo n g h o u s e in a D e g a r

R oark to ld th a t s h e w a s a s k in g a b o u t th in g s

v illa g e a n d p ro u d ly s h o w e d me th e b ra s s b ra c e le t

in K o n tu m, a p ro v in c e in Vie tn a m’s C e n tra l

th a t w a s g iv e n to h im a s a s ig n o f frie n d s h ip

H ighl a n d s . “ Ev e r s e e ‘A p o c a ly p s e N o w ’? ”

a n d d e s c rib e d th e c e re mo n y, w h ic h in c lu d e d th e

asked.

imb ib in g o f mu c h ric e w in e a n d th e s a c rific e o f a c o w. I a s k e d R o a rk h o w h e w o u n d u p liv in g in a

I had , in fa c t s e e n a s c ra tc h e d u p c o p y, p o o rly

trib a l v illa g e a n d h e e x p la in e d to me th a t h e w a s

dubbe d in to U rd u , w h e n I d u c k e d in to a s te a my

s tu d y in g w ith th e mo s t p ro min e n t me mb e r o f th e

movie th e a te r in K a ra c h i, Pa k is ta n to e s c a p e a

trib e , a tra n s v e s tite s h a ma n . A n d th a t a mo n g o th e r

torren tia l d o w n p o u r. A p o rt s trik e fo rc e d me to

th in g s h e ’d ta u g h t R o a rk th e a rt o f h a rv e s tin g

spend s o me n a il-b itin g w e e k s th e re , w h e re I w a s

o p iu m fro m p o p p y ’s .

overse e in g a s h ip me n t o f p re c io u s e x p o rts , b u t

“ Th a t s e e ms q u ite u n u s u a l, ” I s a id .

that is a n o th e r s to ry. “ Ye s , ” I s a id . “ W h y d o y o u

“ Th e y a re a v e ry o p e n min d e d p e o p le , ” s a id R o a rk .

ask?”

“ I w a s a c c e p te d a s p a rt o f th e v illa g e rig h t a w a y. Po p p y d re a ms fo r mid n ig h t fie n d s . ”

R oark e x p la in e d th a t th e D e g a r, w h o a re a ls o known a s M o n ta g n a rd s – th e n a me th e Fre n c h g a v e

“ N o w w h a t a re y o u d rin k in g – Sa ig o n Sp e c ia l

them- w e re d e p ic te d a s g u a rd in g th e c o mp o u n d o f

o r H a n o i B e e r? ” I fe lt c o mp e lle d to d rin k th e

the ma d c o lo n e l p la y e d b y M a rlo n B ra n d o in th e

N o rth e rn e rs b e s t. “ H a n o i B e e r p le a s e . ”

film. Th e y h a d , in re a lity, fo u g h t a lo n g s id e th e

MYTHS, RUMORS, LEGENDS & LIES

A R E V I VA L I S T P U B L I C AT I O N

VIETNAM

THE ROARK REVIVAL VOLUME 10

STRANGE DAZE IN A HANOI HAZE

C h apt er

WHITE SAVAGE R o a rk d e s c r i b e d t o m e t h e d ay a young Amer ican,

issue Willys Jeep w here they hung back, keeping a

wh o I wa s s o o n t o m e e t , ar r ived in his Centr al

war y eye on the hostile villagers, w hile the young

Hi g h l a n d v i l l a g e . T h e A mer ican, whom Roar k

Amer ican engaged w ith R oark.

re fe rre d t o a s T h e K i d , w a s a j o u rn a l is t f o r o n e o f t h e ‘ e dgier ’ companies that

To this day it makes me laugh, w henever I think

h a d c a rv e d a n i c h e f o r i t s e lf in new media. He

of Roa rk’s grand entrance, w hat kind of first

s h o we d up i n t h e c o m p a n y of two Vietnamese who

impr ession it made –and how different than my

we re , o s t e n s i b l y, s e r v i n g a s g uides and inter pr eter s.

own f irst encounter w ith Roark, cursing obscenely

As o ft e n h a p p e n s w h e n c i t y f olk encounter r ustics,

at his broken-dow n bike! H e must have seemed

t h e re we r e s o m e m i s u n d e r standings exacer bated,

like a character stepping out of a C onrad novel

n o d o u b t, b y t h e n a t u r a l enmity between the

–a Kurz or Lord Jim of the Central H ighlands-

De g a r a n d t h e Vi e t n a m e s e , or the hill tr ibes and

or some kind of

t h e g o v e r n m e n t . T h e w i n ning side never f orgot

seamlessly w ith the natives w ith w hom he lived.

o n wh o s e s i d e t h e h i g h l a n der s f ought in the two

T hat was a unique quality of R oark: he seemed

In d o c h i n e s e w a r s .

at home w herever he w as, fitting in perfectly

“White Savage” blending

with whatever environment or habitat he w as in, Th i n g s w e r e g o i n g d o w n hill f ast when Roar k,

whethe r it w as a yurt or a long hut, a halfw ay

wh o s e n a p h a d b e e n d i s t ur bed by the gr owing

house or a suite at the G eorges Cinq

c o m m o t i o n , c l i m b e d d o w n f r om the long house, a n d i n t e rv e n e d i n a w a y t hat allowed both sides

“What w as The K id doing there, “ I asked. “A

t o s a v e fa c e , a v e r y u s e f u l skill if one is to spend

stor y on transvestite shamans?”

t i m e i n Vi e t n a m o r a n y w her e in I ndochina, I

“He wasn’t there on business,” said R oark. “H e

l e a rn e d . I . T h e t w o Vi e t n a m ese –Roar k called them

wanted to see some real Montagnards. ‘A pocalypse

“ h a n d l e rs” - r e t r e a t e d t o t heir U.S . gover nment

Now’ is his favorite movie.”

MYTHS, RUMORS, LEGENDS & LIES

A R E V I VA L I S T P U B L I C AT I O N

VIETNAM

THE ROARK REVIVAL VOLUME 10

Cha p t e r

STRANGE DAZE IN A HANOI HAZE

9 :

PHO Aft e r s e v e r a l m o r e r o u n d s of weak beer, and some

T he old w oman took a seat next to me and began

ri c e wi n e , R o a r k s u g g e s t ed we get something

talking animatedly to me, in rapid Vietnamese.

t o e a t . I c l i m b e d b a c k i n to the sidecar and we

T he on ly w ords I understood, w hich came to me as

we re o ff t o a p a r t o f t o w n I could not identif y

quite a shock, w ere “I love you.”

i f m y l i fe d e p e n d e d o n i t . F r om the outside, the e s t a b l i s h m e n t l o o k e d u n i mpr essive. “T his place

“I love you,” said the old w oman. I didn’t know if

h a s t h e b e s t p h o i n t o w n , ” Roar k insisted. “I ts

that wa s a question or a command.

s p e c i a l t y h o w e v e r, i s n o t o n the menu.”

Roar k, the bastard, w as struggling to contain his laughter, continued to noisily slurp his broth.

older

woman,

who

assumed

was

the

T he old w oman, frustrated by my incomprehension,

p ro p ri e t re s s , a p p r o a c h e d us and gr eeted Roar k

gestur e d tow ards the balcony w here I saw half a

wi t h wa rm f a m i l i a r i t y. T h e old woman had a br oad

dozen young w omen leaning against the railing.

s m i l e a n d b a d t e e t h . R o a r k intr oduced me to her.

I t f inally daw ned on me that w e w ere in a multi-

Em b o l d e n e d b y b e e r a n d r ice wine, I sampled a

pur pose establishment but, w ith the shift in my

n u m b e r of t h i n g s t h a t g i v e me shudder s, to this

compr e hension, there follow ed a shift in my

d a y, wh e n I t h i n k a b o u t t h e m, including something

bowels and it w as w ith some urgency that I left

t h a t s e e me d t o h a v e b e e n f ished out of a sewer

my companion, and the lady of the house, at the

a n d s t e we d i n a n a m m o n i a br oth. “What did I just

table. The laughter of the madam and the girls’

e a t ? ” I a s k e d , a s I d r a i n e d a cup of r ice wine to

upstair s still echoes in my ears, w hen I recall that

k i l l t h e t a s t e . “ I t ’s a t h o u s and year old egg,” said

moment of shame.

R o a rk . “ A t r u e d e l i c a c y. ”

MYTHS, RUMORS, LEGENDS & LIES

A R E V I VA L I S T P U B L I C AT I O N

VIETNAM

THE ROARK REVIVAL VOLUME 10

STRANGE DAZE IN A HANOI HAZE

Chapter

11:

CRACKED ACTOR

Roark lo a d e d me in to a ta x i a n d c limb e d in b e s id e

th e a c to r h a d d ie d y o u n g in th e la te ‘5 0 s - b u t I ra n

me. We h a d a little time , a s w e s lo g g e d th ro u g h

u p a g a in s t th e s a me p ro b le m I h a d o fte n h a d w ith

the m id d a y tra ffic , fo r R o a rk to d e b rie f me o n c e

R o a rk , th a t is , d e te rmin in g h is a g e . So me time s th e

again o n th e p u rp o s e o f th is me e tin g . R o a rk a s k e d

lo n g mile s h e h a d tra v e le d s h o w e d o n h is fa c e , a n d

me if I’d h e a rd o f a c e rta in a c to r, o n e w ith a n

h e o fte n h a d a w e a th e re d , w iz e n e d lo o k . A t o th e rs

Irish s u rn a me a n d ro g u is h re p u ta tio n w h o h a d

h e s e e me d p re te rn a tu ra lly y o u th fu l, h is in n a te

once b e e n o n e o f H o lly w o o d ’s b ig g e s t s ta rs . I h a d ,

v ita lity s e e me d to s h a v e o ff th e y e a rs . It w a s n o

in fac t, w a n te d to b e h im w h e n I w a s a b o y. O r

s tre tc h o f th e ima g in a tio n to b e lie v e R o a rk c o u ld

one o f th e c h a ra c te rs h e p la y e d – a n o b le p ira te , a n

b e a b a s ta rd , b u t o f a mo v ie s ta r?

hono ra b le th ie f.

C ha p t e r

”O f c o u rs e , ” I s a id .

“ I d id n o t k n o w h e h a d a n y c h ild re n , ” I s a id . “ B u t,

“D id y o u k n o w h e h a d a s o n ? ”

g iv e n h is re p u ta tio n , I w o u ld n ’t b e s u rp ris e d if h e h a d a fe w. ”

1 0:

I w on d e re d w h e re R o a rk w a s g o in g w ith th is ; w a s Roark g o in g to te ll me h e w a s p ro g e n y o f th is

DIRTY LINEN

famou s a c to r a n d in fa mo u s w o ma n iz e r? I d id th e math in my h e a d , w o n d e rin g if it w a s p o s s ib le –

I wo k e u p i n a s t r a n g e r oom, star ing up at the

I had no recollection and w as in no shape to meet

re v o l v i n g c e i l i n g f a n . I s ensed the pr esence of

anybody. I noticed a Yves Saint Laurent blouse on

a n o t h e r in t h e r o o m a n d , lif ting my thr obbing

the bed sheets. R oark opened a bottle of Saigon

h e a d , wi t h s o m e e ff o r t , f rom the pillow, I saw

and took a long draught of w arm beer. The thought

R o a rk , l o o k i n g f r e s h a s c a n be, sitting on the edge

of it made my stomach queasy. I heard the toilet

o f t h e b e d . “ H e l l o , S u n s h ine,” he said. “Have a

f lush a nd the door to the bathroom opened. A

good sleep?”

petite, pale skinned w oman w ith long black hair

M y s t o m a c h r u m b l e d a n d I measur ed the distance

lef t the bathroom. She smiled shyly, nodding to

fro m t h e be d t o t h e b a t h r o o m. Could I , if necessar y,

Roar k, then a reproving glance my w ay, shaking

make it in time?

her head.

“ B e t t e r g e t a m o v e o n , ” s a i d Roar k. “Our meeting i s i n h a l f a n h o u r. ”

Roar k appraised her w ith his eyes as she let

“What meeting?”

her self out of the room after she quickly put on

“ Th e Ki d , ” s a i d R o a r k . “ I t old you about that last

her clo thes. “N ever pay for pleasure.” he said.

night.”

MYTHS, RUMORS, LEGENDS & LIES

A R E V I VA L I S T P U B L I C AT I O N

VIETNAM

THE ROARK REVIVAL VOLUME 10

STRANGE DAZE IN A HANOI HAZE

I h a d b e e n a f a n o f t h e f a mous f ather, captivated

“What happened to him,” I asked.

b y t h e h e r o i c r o g u e s h e p l ayed and f ascinated by

“No one know s, for sure,” said R oark. “O ne thing

h i s wi c k e d , w i c k e d w a y s .

that is know n is that he fell into the hands of the

Khmer Rouge.”

R o a rk s u r p r i s e d m e b y h i s f amiliar ity with the

T he tax i driver shifted in his seat at the mention

d e t a i l s o f t h e s o n ’s s t o r y, which, at f ir st glance

of the murderous Cambodian regime, w ho w ere

s e e m e d b e t h a t o f a w a s t r e l youth, f ated to f ollow

dr iven back into the jungle by the army of a

i n h i s fa t h e r ’s f o o t s t e p s y e t never to step out f r om

unif ied Vietnam.

u n d e r h i s s h a d o w. A f t e r a br ief stint in the acting

“S o, it’s some sort of unsolved mystery thing that

b u s i n e s s , t r a d i n g o n t h e f a mily name, ther e was a

your f riend is doing,” I said.

t u rn , wh ic h m a k e s h i s s t o ry inter esting. He may

“Not exactly,” replied Roark. “A lthough he’s been

h a v e n o t in h e r i t e d h i s f a t h e r ’s talent or good luck,

declar ed legally dead for more than thirty years,

b u t h e d i d i n h e r i t a r e s t l e ss, r eckless spir it that

they never found his body.”

d ro v e h i m t o s e e k h i s f o r t u ne and make a name

Roar k

fo r h i m se l f e l s e w h e r e . T h at he did, although

lower ing his voice, so that the taxi driver could

i n re l a t i ve l y o b s c u r e c i r c les. Af ter some time

not hea r him clearly over the H anoi traffic din.

s p e n t wa n d e r i n g a r o u n d t he wor ld, he ar r ived

“T he K id thinks he’s found him,” he said.

i n Vi e t n a m , L e i c a i n h a nd, just as Amer ica’s

“His r e mains?” I asked in a near w hisper.

i n v o l v e m e n t i n t h e w a r w as r amping up, and in

“No, him. In the flesh and very much alive.”

paused

moment

before

Chapter

12:

SON OF MAN

continuing,

t h e c o u rs e o f t h e f e w y e a r s that seemed allotted to h i m , b e c a m e a l e g e n d a r y f i gur e among his f ellow j o u rn a l i s ts a n d t h e y o u n g s oldier s he documented i n c o m b a t.

MYTHS, RUMORS, LEGENDS & LIES

A R E V I VA L I S T P U B L I C AT I O N

VIETNAM

THE ROARK REVIVAL VOLUME 10

Chap t e r

STRANGE DAZE IN A HANOI HAZE

1 3 :

T H E G I R L W I T H GREEN EYES A s I was digesting this bit of news, I realized that t h e scener y outside the taxi window looked familiar. We wer e back in the hear t of the F r ench Q uarter and t h e gr and colonial style Oper a House that w e had p a ssed by the night bef or e now loomed into view. T h e dr iver slowed to a stop. “Ar e we taking in some P u c cini?” I asked. “ N o, this is the hotel.” I t hen noticed the f amiliar logo on the side of the b u ilding dir ectly opposite the Oper a House. We had a r r ived at the Hanoi Hilton. T h e lobby was bustling with activity, a congeries o f inter national delegations and r epr esentatives of m ultinational companies, along with a smattering o f smar tly dr essed tour ists. I was f ollow ing close t o Roar k’s heels as he conf idently made his w ay t o w ar ds the f r ont desk, when he stoppe d suddenly. “ Wait her e,” he said, leaving me standing in the c e n ter of the lobby. I t was that I f ir st noticed ther e was someone else w ho stood out in the cr owd, a E ur asian w oman o f str iking beauty. S he had, to my mi nd, flaw less f e atur es, dr awn as I am to the exotic, there w as o n e f eatur e that lef t an indelible impr ession on me: h e r almond- shaped eyes, tucked behind epicanthic f o lds, wer e a luminous, emer ald gr een.

MYTHS, RUMORS, LEGENDS & LIES

A R E V I VA L I S T P U B L I C AT I O N

VIETNAM

THE ROARK REVIVAL VOLUME 10

STRANGE DAZE IN A HANOI HAZE

THANK YOU FOR YOUR SERVICE Cha p t er

1 4 :

“ W h o wa s t h a t w o m a n ? ” I asked when Roar k

Bef or e I could inquire further about this exotic

re t u rn e d .

cr eature

“ Th e d a u g h t e r o f a f r i e n d , ” he said. “F ounder of

consider

the

unlikelihood

being a chance encounter, our conversation w as

t h e Da Na n g S u r f C l u b - We ’ r e bound by sin.”

inter r upted by the arrival of a w iry young man

Th e wo ma n d i s a p p e a r e d i n t o the cr owd.

with a too loud voice and surplus energy. H e

“ Sh e ’s a b i t d i ff e r e n t , ” I s a id. “You know, those-

clasped Roark’s hand firmly and familiarly before

“ I m a d e a V w i t h m y f inger s, unconsciously

tur ning to me. “This is The K id,” said Roark, by

m i m i c k i ng t h e P e a c e S i g n p r evalent in the S ixties.

way of introduction.

“ Ah , t h os e e y e s ! Ye s , q u ite str iking isn’t she.

“I ’ ve heard a lot about you,” said The K id.

Yo u d o n ’t s e e t o o m a n y gr een eyed gir ls with

He adopted a more solemn tone, stood at attention

e p i c a n t h ic f o l d s . T h e F r e n c h lef t behind mor e than

and to my horror raised his right hand to his brow

j u s t t h e re c i p e f o r b a g u e t t e s.”

and said, “Thank you for your service.”

“ I i m a g i n e m o r e t h a n a f ew G.I .’s lef t their

T hen h e saluted me.

m a rk , ” I r e p l i e d . “ I n P a r i s or L ondon she’ d be a s u p e rm o d e l , b u t h e r e , i t c a n be a disadvantage. Th e re a re s t i l l s o m e h a r d f e elings about the past.”

MYTHS, RUMORS, LEGENDS & LIES

A R E V I VA L I S T P U B L I C AT I O N

VIETNAM

THE ROARK REVIVAL VOLUME 10

STRANGE DAZE IN A HANOI HAZE

C hapter

15:

G O YA N K E E S ! What w a s R o a rk u p to a n d h o w d id I fit in ? I h a d

h e w o u ld b e to ma n ip u la te . I h a d le a rn e d , in my

unqu e s tio n in g ly o b e y e d h is s u mmo n s , a b a n d o n in g

fo rme r tra d e , th a t c irc u ms ta n c e s s o me time s fo rc e

the se c u rity o f my mo u n ta in h o me , to re n d e z v o u s

y o u to a b a n d o n w h a te v e r s c rip t y o u w e re w o rk in g

w ith R o a rk fo r s o me u n k n o w n p u rp o s e .

He had

w ith , fo r in s ta n c e , w h e n th e v a lid ity o f a p a s s p o rt

lured me w ith a o n e -w a y tic k e t; I to o k th e b a it

is c h a lle n g e d , w h e n a w e ig h t a n o ma ly in w h a te v e r

and Ro a rk re e le d me in . N o w, h e re I w a s , th irte e n

is mo v in g th e c a rg o a ro u s e s s u s p ic io n s o r w h e n

hund re d mile s fro m K a th ma n d u , d ra w n in to s o me

a frie n d ly c u s to ms a g e n t is s a c k e d o r fa lls ill.

intrig u e c o o k e d u p b y R o a rk , a b o u t w h ic h I k n e w

Th e a b ility to th in k q u ic k ly, to imp ro v is e , is a n

nothi n g . Th e tic k e t w a s fre e b u t w h a t R o a rk ’s

e s s e n tia l e le me n t o f th e g a me .

gift w o u ld u ltima te ly c o s t me I h a d n o w a y o f know in g . “ J u s t p la y a lo n g , ” R o a rk w h is p e re d a s

“ R o a rk to ld me y o u w e re in th e B a ttle o f K h e

w e we re s e a te d in th e n o is y d in in g ro o m. “ I’ll

Sa n h , ” s a id Th e K id . “ I c a n ’t ima g in e w h a t th a t

expla in la te r. ”

mu s t h a v e b e e n lik e . ” N e ith e r c o u ld I.

Should I tru s t h im? Pro b a b ly n o t, is w h a t my

R o a rk , e v id e n tly, h a d n o s u c h p ro b le m. H is

gut a n d h e a d a g re e d u p o n , b u t I w a s w illin g to

ima g in a tio n c o o k e d u p a s c e n a rio to rn fro m th e

go va mp , if n e c e s s a ry, u n til th e me lo d y I w a s

p a g e s o f a Sg t. R o c k c o mic b o o k , fu ll o f g o re

suppo s e d to b e p la y in g b e c a me a p p a re n t to me .

a n d p a th o s a n d in c lu d e d a n a c c o u n t o f h o w, w h ile

“Roa rk to ld me a little a b o u t y o u r b a c k g ro u n d , ”

g u a rd in g th e p e rime te r o f a fire b a s e , a y o u n g V C

the jou rn a lis t s a id . “ Pre tty h e a v y. ”

s o ld ie r h a d b re a c h e d th e d e fe n s e s a n d my M -1 6 ja mme d b e fo re I c o u ld g e t o ff a s h o t le a v in g me

MYTHS, RUMORS, LEGENDS & LIES

A R E V I VA L I S T P U B L I C AT I O N

VIETNAM

The K id s p o k e w ith a s o le mn , a lmo s t re v e re n t

w ith n o th in g b e s id e my b a y o n e t to d e fe n d my s e lf.

tone. Th e K id s tru c k me a s s o me w h a t p h o n y. B u t

Th e K id e c h o e d w ith a n u n w h o le s o me fa s c in a tio n ,

w ho a m I to ju d g e , c o n s id e rin g I w a s , a t th a t v e ry

th e g ru e s o me d e ta ils p ro v id e d b y R o a rk o f h o w I

mome n t, try in g to d e te rmin e ju s t w h o o r w h a t I

d is e mb o w e le d my a tta c k e r a n d s a v e d my o w n life .

w as in te n d e d to imp e rs o n a te a n d fo r w h a t p u rp o s e ?

I th e n h e ld th e d y in g s o ld ie r, a n d h e a rd h is la s t

The mo re h e re s p e c te d me , I re a s o n e d , th e e a s ie r

w o rd s , w h ic h , w e re , a lle g e d ly, “ G o , Ya n k e e s !”

THE ROARK REVIVAL VOLUME 10

Chap t e r

1 6 :

STRANGE DAZE IN A HANOI HAZE

PTSD

I q u i c k l y r e p a i r e d t o t h e m e n’s r oom, wher e I stood

Roar k a pologized for the role he’d concocted for

b e fo re t h e s i n k a n d s p l a s hed water on my f ace.

me. “I had to hype you up,” he said, “in order to

Aro u n d me , I h e a r d t h e s ound of f lies hur r iedly

convince him it w as w orth it, w as necessary, to fly

z i p p e d a n d t h e r o o m q u i c k ly vacated. I r ealized,

you out here.”

a s I l o o ke d a t m y r e f l e c t i o n in the mir r or, that I d i d , i n d e e d , l o o k q u i t e u n h inged. I was wonder ing

I asked Roark w hy he had me fly into H anoi rather

j u s t wh a t k i n d o f r i p e b u l l s hit was he f eeding T he

than, say Saigon –H o C hi Minh City- at the other

Ki d wh e n R o a r k w a l k e d i n . I was still seething.

end of the country. “H ave you ever heard of H a

“ Yo u ’re ma d ! ” I t o l d h i m .

L ong B ay? C at B a?” he asked.

R o a rk l o o k e d n o t t h e l e a s t bit unner ved.

I had n ot. Roar k e xplained that he spent a few days on a junk

I e v e n t u a l l y c a l m e d d o w n , when I r ealized the

f loating around the bay , famous for the massive

ri d i c u l o u sn e s s o f t h e s i t u a t ion.

limestone islands that jut out of the emerald

“ Th e Ki d p r o b a b l y t h i n k s I ’m a psycho,” I said.

water s, near the G ulf of Tonkin, in the company

“ He d o e s , ” r e p l i e d R o a r k . “I told him you have

of a beautiful young w oman, all on the company’s

p o s t -t ra u m a t i c s t r e s s ? ”

dime. “ D oing research?” I asked.

“ Th a t I’m s h e l l s h o c k e d ? ”

“I n sea rch of the H ouse of Lovers Lost.”

“ B u t t h a t y o u ’ r e a l r i g h t u nless you go off your

he r eplied.

meds.” We h a d a g o o d l a u g h .

T his tr iggered the memory of the beautiful green-

“ Th e c o m p a n y T h e K i d w o r ks f or has deep, deep

eyed E u rasian that he spoke to in the H anoi H ilton.

p o c k e t s . A n d h e ’s c o n v i n c e d them he has a stor y.

When I asked if she, in fact, had something to do

A big one.”

with th e choice of venue he fell silent.

“ M i s s i n g j o u r n a l i s t f o u n d a live! ” “ Ye s . ”

MYTHS, RUMORS, LEGENDS & LIES

A R E V I VA L I S T P U B L I C AT I O N

VIETNAM

THE ROARK REVIVAL VOLUME 10

STRANGE DAZE IN A HANOI HAZE

THE LAW OF HUMAN REMAINS

Cha p te r

Chapter

1 7 :

18:

L AT T E R DAY S TA N L E Y

“ Gi v e o u r f r i e n d h e r e a l i t tle backgr ound so that

pace o f official efforts. The underground trade

With h is o w n s to ry fo u n d e rin g , Th e K id re a d a ll

Th is is w h e n tw o Vie tn a me s e me n C u o n g a n d

we ’re a l l o n t h e s a m e p a g e , ” said Roar k.

in r emains w as dominated by scam artists and

that h e c o u ld fin d a b o u t th e mis s in g a c to r a n d ma d e

D u n g , p re s e n te d th e ms e lv e s a t h is d o o r, a n d

unscr upulous dealers w ho recognized that grief

some c a s u a l in q u irie s a mo n g s t th e fe w c o n ta c ts h e

in fo rme d

Th e Ki d , a f t e r e y e i n g m e w ar ily f or awhile, as if

is of ten the handmaiden of gullibility. They

had ma d e . J u s t w h e n a ll s e e me d lo s t, a n d h e w a s

s e rv ic e s w o u ld b e n o t o n ly in d is p e n s ib le b u t

h e wa s w o r r i e d I m i g h t l e ap acr oss the table and

f orged dog tags or passed off bone fragments

prepa re d to c o n c e d e d e fe a t a n d fly h o me , h e w a s

ma n d a to ry. So in s is te n t w e re th e y, th a t Th e K id

e n u c l e a t e h i m w i t h a s o u p spoon, descr ibed the

belonging to animals or ordinary Vietnamese as

informe d th a t a We s te rn e r, w h o h a d s ta y e d in th e

d id n o t d a re s a y n o . Th e K id w a s u n s u re w h e th e r

e v e n t s t h a t l e d h i m b e l i e v e he was on the verge

those o f missing Westerners. A fter a number of

count ry a fte r mo s t o f h is c o mp a trio ts le ft, w h o , it

th e y w e re c o n n e c te d to s o me c rime s y n d ic a te th a t

o f s o l v i n g a n e a r l y h a l f c e ntur y old myster y. He

weeks, The K id made little headw ay in developing

w as r u mo re d , h a d b e e n s o me o n e o f imp o rta n c e .

h a d tie s w ith p e o p le in g o v e rn me n t o r w h e th e r th e y

h a d a rri v e d i n S a i g o n , o ff i cially known as Ho Chi

his sto ry. H e had made some contacts on the

H e k e p t to h ims e lf a n d o p e ra te d , u n mo le s te d b y

w o rk e d fo r th e g o v e rn me n t th e ms e lv e s .

M i n h C i t y, l i t t l e m o r e t h a n a month ear lier, to do

margins of the bone trader but no active traders

the l o c a l a u th o ritie s . H e w a s ru mo re d to liv e

ra te , th e y d id p ro v e , la te r, to h a v e a w a y o f c u ttin g

re s e a rc h f o r a s t o r y o n t h e undergr ound tr aff ic in

ar ound w hom he could build a story. They w ere

somew h e re a ro u n d D a N a n g . Fo r a fe w d o n g – th e

th ro u g h re d ta p e . Th e y w e re a b le fa c ilita to rs , to

h u m a n re m a i n s .

extr aordinarily tight-lipped and saw no benefit

Vietn a me s e c u rre n c y - h is e x a c t lo c a tio n mig h t b e

a d e g re e , b u t w ith th e ir a rriv a l a ll o f Th e K id ’s

in dr aw ing attention to themselves and inviting

procure d . Th e K id w a s o n to s o me th in g . Fin a lly.

o th e r s o u rc e s d rie d u p . N o ma tte r.

h im,

b ro k e n

En g lis h ,

th a t

th e ir

At any

Aft e r t h e w a r, w h e n t h e r e w as a thaw in r elations

another crackdow n. The K id had draw n attention

b e t we e n t h e f o r m e r c o m b a tants, both countr ies

to himself, as he pursued contacts in a shadow y

H e be g a n to ima g in e h ims e lf to b e a la tte r d a y

H e p re p a re d to g o to D a N a n g imme d ia te ly b u t

c o l l a b o ra t e d i n t h e e ff o r t to f ind, identif y, and

milieu that w as rife w ith both criminal elements

Stanle y w h o g a rn e re d fa me b y lo c a tin g th e mis s in g

firs t, b e fo re h e w e n t to s e e k h is g lo ry, h e w a n te d

re t u rn h o m e t h e r e m a i n s of missing Amer ican

and informers, and discovered that he w as being

Living s to n e . Th e re w o u ld b e g re a t a c c la im, a n d

to s e e th e C e n tra l H ig h la n d e rs , to g o u p riv e r,

s e rv i c e m e n . A b l a c k m a r ket spr ung up in the

closely

authorities.

perha p s a Pu litz e r – d id th e y p ro v id e a p riz e fo r

in c o u n try, to h e ro g u e c o lo n e l’s c o mp o u n d . H e

s h a d o w o f t h e o ff i c i a l e ff or ts, cater ing, f or the

Meanwhile, his story w as going now here, time

digita l jo u rn a lis m? It d id n ’t ma tte r, th is re p o rtin g

re n te d a Willy s a n d , w ith D u o n g a n d D u n g in to w,

m o s t p a r t , t o t h e f a m i l i e s of missing soldier s

was r unning out as w ell as his money and he little

coup w o u ld ma k e h is n a me . A n d a ll th o s e h a te rs

d ro v e in to th e h ills w h e re h e e n c o u n te re d n o t a

a n d s e rv i c e m e n w h o w e r e fr ustr ated by the slow

to show for his efforts.

back a t th e o ffic e c o u ld b ite it.

ma d c o lo n e l b u t a n e q u a lly c o lo rfu l

scrutinized

the

local

Th e re w o u ld ,

perha p s , b e a b o o k d e a l, fo llo w e d b y a mo v ie , o r

c h a ra c te r, R o a rk .

a six- p a rt s e rie s .

MYTHS, RUMORS, LEGENDS & LIES

A R E V I VA L I S T P U B L I C AT I O N

VIETNAM

THE ROARK REVIVAL VOLUME 10

STRANGE DAZE IN A HANOI HAZE

C hapter

19:

L E T ’S G E T L O S T

It w a s , o f c o u rs e , in th e C e n tra l H ig h la n d s , in a v a lle y (o b s c u re d b y c lo u d s ) th a t Th e K id e n c o u n te re d R o a rk w h o mu s t h a v e a p p e a re d , to h im, to h a v e s te p p e d o u t o f a p a g e b y C o n ra d , o r a fra me fro m a p s y c h e d e lic w a r mo v ie : a fit, v ita l K u rtz in a p a ir o f flo ra l b o a rd s h o rts . Th e K id , p re s u min g th a t, s o me w h e re n e a r w h e re th e H a n R iv e r e mp tie s in to th e So u th C h in a Se a , h is Liv in g s to n e w a s a w a itin g d is c o v e ry a n d th a t th e g lo ry w o u ld s o o n b e h is , c o n fid e d in R o a rk , w h o a g re e d th a t th e s to ry w a s , in d e e d , a g o o d o n e b u t ma y b e tric k ie r th a n Th e K id s u p p o s e d . “ O n e th in g y o u mig h t c o n s id e r, ” s a id R o a rk . “ Is th a t th e lo s t p h o to g ra p h e r ma y n o t w is h to b e fo u n d . ” Th is w a s g o in g to b e n o s ma ll jo b a n d it w o u ld re q u ire th e a s s is ta n c e o f s o me a b le h a n d s w ith w o rk in g k n o w le d g e o f h o w to n a v ig a te th e la b y rin th in e b u re a u c ra c ie s

and

s tre e t

c u ltu re

d e v e lo p in g

c o u n trie s . Th e K id lo o k e d a t R o a rk h o p e fu lly, c e rta in th a t h e h a d fo u n d ju s t s u c h a ma n . A fte r a ll, R o a rk , to a ll a p p e a ra n c e s , is a ma n w h o k n o w s h o w to g e t a ro u n d , re g a rd le s s o f th e p la c e o r c irc u ms ta n c e . “ Lik e y o u ? ” h e s a id . “ I c a n h e lp , ” s a id R o a rk . “ B u t w e ’re g o in g to n e e d s o me o n e w ith a d iffe re n t k in d o f e x p e rtis e . We ’re g o in g to n e e d s o me o n e w h o c a n p o s itiv e ly ID h im, p ic k h im o u t o f a c ro w d . We ’re g o in g to n e e d s o me o n e w h o k n e w h im, b a c k in th e d a y. ” “KHE SANH” SHIRT JACKET AND “POPPY DREAMS” WOVEN

MYTHS, RUMORS, LEGENDS & LIES

A R E V I VA L I S T P U B L I C AT I O N

VIETNAM

THE ROARK REVIVAL VOLUME 10

STRANGE DAZE IN A HANOI HAZE

C h apt er

20:

JUDAS

R o a rk , a s o n e m i g h t h a v e alr eady suspected,

While it w ould be out of character for him to

j u s t h a p pe n e d t o k n o w someone who f it that

claim a high moral purpose for anything he did,

d e s c ri p t i o n , a Vi e t v e t w h o se war time exper iences

I admit it alarmed me w hen R oark brushed aside

s o s c a rre d h i m , t h e h o r ror ! , that r esumption

my r eservations about flying over the H imalayas,

o f t h e l i f e h e h a d l e f t b ehind, as a cor n f ed

not to mention gallivanting across Vietnam on

k i d s o m e w h e r e o n t h e p lains, was untenable.

someone

Aft e r d e c a d e s k i c k i n g a r o und I ndochina –L aos,

P er hap s I’d spent too many years among the saints

C a m b o d i a , T h a i l a n d - w o r k i ng in a number of f ields

and sadhus but w as, by no means, the one to cast

t h a t o n e s h o u l d o n l y s p e a k of spar ingly and with

the f ir st stone. O r the last.

else’s

dime,

under

false

pretenses.

g re a t d i s c r e t i o n , h e d r i f t e d back into Vietnam, s e t t l i n g i n t h e N o r t h e r n p ar t of the countr y, in

But now that my assigned role w as to identify –or

a n d a ro u n d H a n o i .

E x c e p t that he was actually

plant the Judas K iss- on my esteemed friend w ho,

a m b l i n g a r o u n d d i ff e r e n t par ts, doing activities

in f act , I did know and doubted still existed, I

t h a t re q u i r e s i m i l a r d i s c r e t ion, and settled not in

r eluctantly agreed to leave H anoi w ith Roark and

Ha n o i , b u t K a t h m a n d u .

the Kid and head tow ards the C entral C oast and the S outh China Sea. What else could I do? I had

Th i s R o a r k t o l d m e t h i s over a f ew r ounds of

no ticket home.

Sa i g o n b e e r s . I r e m a i n e d u ncer tain of his motives; wa s t h i s g a m e h e w a s p l a ying just that, a lar k, o r wa s I d i s c o v e r i n g t h e v enal side of my f r iend?

MYTHS, RUMORS, LEGENDS & LIES

A R E V I VA L I S T P U B L I C AT I O N

VIETNAM

THE ROARK REVIVAL VOLUME 10

STRANGE DAZE IN A HANOI HAZE

Chapter

Da Na n g h a d , n o d o u b t , changed consider ably

Af ter a few days in D a N ang, the tension betw een

s i n c e i t s d a y s a s a F r e n c h colonial por t. T he

Roar k and The K id w as hard to endure and

m a s s i v e p o r t , w h i c h t h e A mer icans expanded to

impossible to ignore. D isenchantment had set in

a c c o m m o d a t e t h e c o n t a i n e r ships that supplied

and the near reverential tone w ith w hich The K id

t h e i r wa r e ff o r t i s t h e m o st outstanding f eatur e

once ad dressed R oark w as now replaced w ith one

o f t h e c i t y t h a t i s r o u g h l y half way between old

that wa s close to contempt. What precipitated this,

Sa i g o n a nd H a n o i . I n o t i c ed that, unlike Hanoi,

I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t clearly know as I w as ambulating solitarily

t h e re we r e f e w R u s s i a n s , nor wer e ther e the

ar ound the city during much of the time.

l e g i o n s o f b a c k p a c k e r s t h at over whelm even the

af ter noon, how ever, soon after I returned from

m o s t re mo t e a r e a s d u r i n g the high season, when

one of my w alks, Roark knocked on my door and

i t i s d ry, c o o l , o r w a r m enough f or the most

asked me to join him and The K id for a rendezvous

s e n s i t i v e o f s o u l s t o w e a t h er.

But it did have a

with a senior member of the foreign community

s u b s t a n t i a l e x p a t c o m m u n i ty and I f ound myself ,

who wa s said to be a font of information. Finally,

o n a c o u p l e o f o c c a s i o n s , d rawn into conver sation

a stir r ing of activity! While it did little to ease

wi t h s o m e o f t h e m , a ff i r m i ng my long held belief

the ten sion betw een my tw o companions, any

t h a t wh e r e v e r i t i s y o u f ind them, the expats

movement forw ard helped lift me out of the abyss

a re , a s a b u n c h , r e m a r k a b ly the same.

of bor e dom into w hich I had fallen.

I f ound

21:

DANG

O ne

Da Na n g t o b e r e m a r k a b l y clean and or der ly and a l m o s t e e r i l y q u i e t . I t l a c k ed the soul, the noise, t h e h u s t l e a n d b u s t l e t h a t m a ke other cities in that p a rt o f t h e w o r l d â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a n y p a r t of the wor ld- seem a l i v e . Ho w e v e r, i t d i d h a v e f r ee citywide WiF i.

MYTHS, RUMORS, LEGENDS & LIES

A R E V I VA L I S T P U B L I C AT I O N

VIETNAM

THE ROARK REVIVAL VOLUME 10

STRANGE DAZE IN A HANOI HAZE

C h apt er

22:

THE MAJOR

th e

th e y o c c u rre d , th e n u mb e rs o f c a s u a ltie s , th e lo s s

Muse u m o f th e Fifth M ilita ry Zo n e , th a t w e w e re

lea rn e d ,

s h o rtly

b e fo re

o f ma te rie l a s w e ll a s th e d e ta ils o f th e v a rio u s

there to me e t

I h a d p a s s e d th e

w a rp la n e s , ta n k s , a n d a rmo re d v e h ic le s in v o lv e d ,

museu m a n u mb e r o f time s b e fo re , o n my w a lk s ,

a s if h e w a s re c itin g b a s e b a ll s ta tis tic s . W h ile h is

my a tte n tio n d ra w n b y th e a rra y o f ta n k s a n d

me mo ry w a s p ro d ig io u s , it w a s a ls o re ma rk a b ly

w arpla n e s th a t w e re a rra y e d lik e s ta tu a ry o n th e

a b s tra c t. Th e re w a s n o th in g th a t s ma c k e d o f

museu m’s g ro u n d s . I fig u re d th a t th e ru s e o f

p e rs o n a l e x p e rie n c e in tru d in g in to h is n a rra tiv e .

passin g me o ff a s a milita ry ma n w o u ld b e s h o rt

A t o n e p o in t h e tu rn e d to me a n d th e d re a d e d

lived in d e e d . “ W h a t d o I s a y if h e s ta rts a s k in g

mo me n t c a me to p a s s : “ W h e re d id y o u s e rv e ,

questio n s , R o a rk ? ”

s o ld ie r? ”

“O nly g iv e y o u r n a me , ra n k a n d s e ria l n u mb e r. ”

I fro z e fo r a mo me n t, my min d a b la n k .

M a jo r B rig g s .

a rriv e d

Th e n , h a z ily, th e ly ric s o f a s o n g I h e a rd o n c e The Ma jo r w a s w a itin g fo r u s o u ts id e th e mu s e u m,

c a me to min d .

stand in g ra mro d s tra ig h t, a s if it a tte n tio n , b e s id e

“ M e k o n g D e lta ’6 7 , H u e in ’6 8 .

some c a p tu re d ta n k s . H is g ra y in g h a ir, c lip p e d

Sa ig o n o n le a v e , ” I s a id .

I re me mb e r

short, w a s a s d is c ip lin e d a s h is p o s tu re . A fte r o u r perfu n c to ry in tro d u c tio n s it b e c a me a p p a re n t th a t

M a jo r B rig g s lo o k e d a t me e x p re s s io n le s s th e n h is

Major B rig g s h a d n o th in g o f in te re s t to o ffe r u s

fa c e b ro k e d is c ip lin e a n d a llo w e d a s mile . It ta k e s

nor a n y in te re s t in o u r q u e s t, in fa c t, h e h a d n o

a p h o n y to s p o t a p h o n y. H e w in k e d a t me b e fo re

intere s t in a n y th in g th a t w a s n ’t p u lle d th e v a s t

tu rn in g o n h is h e e l a n d c o n tin u in g h is g u id e d to u r

store h o u s e o f h is me mo ry, th e p a rt th a t s to re d

p a s t th e p o -fa c e d g u a rd s . B y th e time w e le ft th e

milita ry h a rd w a re .

mu s e u m it w a s e v id e n t, e v e n to Th e K id , th a t Th e M a jo r w a s b a ts h it c ra z y. I le a rn e d la te r th a t

BEER WAS IN SUCH RICH SUPPLY THAT WE RESORTED TO SNORKEL BEER BONGS TO KEEP UP.

MYTHS, RUMORS, LEGENDS & LIES

A R E V I VA L I S T P U B L I C AT I O N

VIETNAM

O nce in s id e , w e fo llo w e d Th e M a jo r a t a b ris k c lip

R o a rk h a d a rra n g e d o u r o u tin g a n d th a t it w a s

as he le d u s th ro u g h th e mu s e u m lik e a d o c e n t

w e ll k n o w n , a mo n g me mb e rs o f th e e x p a tria te

on sp e e d . H e h a d a p ro d ig io u s me mo ry a n d c o u ld

c o mmu n ity, th a t h e w a s 4 F a n d h a d n e v e r s p e n t a

recall th e n a me s , d a te s o f fa mo u s b a ttle s , w h e re

d a y in u n ifo rm.

THE ROARK REVIVAL VOLUME 10

STRANGE DAZE IN A HANOI HAZE

Chapter

23:

STRANDED Ev id e n tly

th e

te n s io n

jo u rn a lis t

had

been

b e tw e e n b re w in g

R o a rk fo r

and

s o me

th e time ,

p re c e d in g my a rriv a l in Vie tn a m. R o a rk h a d , in d e e d , d a z z le d Th e K id w ith a ma g n ific e n t firs t imp re s s io n a n d h a d s e t a s ta n d a rd th a t w o u ld b e v e ry h a rd to ma in ta in . A s I’v e s a id , I w a s n ’t p riv y to a ll th e

THE ‘UNIFICATION’ T-SHIRT

g o in g s -o n o n c e th e th re e o f u s la n d e d in D a N a n g a n d w a s fe d in fo rma tio n o n a n e e d -to -k n o w b a s is . I h a d a s p e c ific p a rt to p la y in w h a t w a s to tra n s p ire b u t, to my min d , my p a rt w a s w o e fu lly u n d e rw ritte n a n d I w a s le ft to a s k th a t q u e s tio n th a t p la g u e s ma n y a n a c to r a tte mp tin g to in h a b it a ro le : w h a t w a s my mo tiv a tio n ? It w o u ld a ll b e c o me c le a r to me in d u e time a n d e v e n ts b e g a n to u n s p o o l o r u n ra v e l a t a ra p id p a c e q u ic k ly in th e c o u rs e o f a fe w d a y s . B u t a s Th e K id lo s t fa ith in R o a rk , I fe lt my o w n c o n fid e n c e in my frie n d w a n e a s w e ll. I b e g a n to q u e s tio n n o t o n ly R o a rk ’s mo tiv e s , b u t a ls o h is e ffic a c y. D is illu s io n me n t c a n b e a h e a rt-w re n c h in g e x p e rie n c e a n d I b e g a n to fe e l a b it fo o lis h w ith my mis p la c e d tru s t in s o me o n e w h o I, a fte r a ll, k n e w s o little a b o u t. I, to o , h a d b e e n d a z z le d a n d n o w th a t I w a s n o lo n g e r b lin d e d b y R o a rk ’s lu min o u s .

MYTHS, RUMORS, LEGENDS & LIES

A R E V I VA L I S T P U B L I C AT I O N

VIETNAM

THE ROARK REVIVAL VOLUME 10

STRANGE DAZE IN A HANOI HAZE

Chapter

24:

ENTER THE DRAGON A fter th e d e b a c le w ith Th e M a jo r I w a s d ra g g e d

th e k id s . I n o tic e d a la rg e p o s te r o f B o b M a rle y

along fo r a n o th e r in te rv ie w w ith a s o u rc e th a t Th e

d o min a te d th e ro o m a n d w a s n e a rly s u rp ris e d to

K id h a d h ims e lf d u g u p . H e h a d fo u n d s o me o n e

fin d th e y d id n o t s e rv e R e d Strip e . Th e o n ly th in g

w ho h a d lo n g b e e n p a rt o f th e lo o s e c o mmu n ity

mis s in g w a s th e s w e e t s me ll o f g a n g a , s o me th in g

of ex p a ts s e ttle d in a n d a ro u n d D a N a n g , a n “ o ld

th e lo c a l a u th o ritie s , w ith th e ir s o c ia lis t mo ra lity,

hand” w h o mig h t w e ll s h o w u p if n o t s u p p la n t

d o n o t a p p ro v e o f.

Roark ’s

p la c e ,

was

h in te d .

R o a rk ,

once

indisp e n s ib le w a s n o w, it w a s ma d e c le a r, q u ite

A t o u r n e x t s to p , a trio o f y o u n g Filip in a s

dispo s a b le a n d , a s p a rt o f th e p a c k a g e b ro u g h t b y

p ro v id e d s o me e n te rta in me n t, s in g in g c o v e rs o f

Roark , s o w a s I.

w h a t I g a th e r w e re mo s tly A me ric a n p o p s o n g s in b a re ly c o mp re h e n s ib le En g lis h . Th e c ro w d

We me t u p w ith Th e We s te rn e r, a tu b b y A me ric a n

w a s mo s tly y o u n g , Vie tn a me s e a n d re s p o n d e d

w ith a s h in y c o mp le x io n w e a rin g a “ En jo y H a n o i”

w ith e n th u s ia s m a t th e e n d o f e a c h n u mb e r. Th e

t-shir t, a t d u s k , n e a r th e mo u th o f th e D ra g o n

We s te rn e r a ls o c la p p e d lo u d ly h o w e v e r, I s u s p e c t

Bridg e . Th e We s te rn e r a p p e a re d to b e p e rma n e n tly

th a t h is e n th u s ia s m w a s d ire c te d mo re to th e s h o rt

cover e d in a s h e e n o f s w e a t a n d h a d , s o me h o w,

s k irts w o rn b y th e g irls , e x p o s in g th e ir c h u b b y

mana g e d to ma in ta in h is p a llo r in a s u b tro p ic a l

th ig h s , th a n th e q u a lity o f th e ir v o ic e s o r

clima te . M y firs t imp re s s io n o f h im w a s th a t h e

th e ir re n d itio n s .

w as g re a s y ; in fa c t, e v e ry th in g a b o u t h im s tru c k me a s o le a g in o u s . We c ro s s e d th e b rid g e , to th e

Th e a re a o f Th e We s te rn e r ’s e x p e rtis e s o o n

other s id e o f th e H a n , w h e re w e h o p p e d a n u mb e r

b e c a me a p p a re n t w h e n h e s u g g e s te d th a t w e v is it

of ba rs w ith v a ry in g d e g re e s o f s e e d in e s s . O n e

a p a rtic u la r K a ra o k e b a r w ith a n u mb e r o f p riv a te

thing th a t Th e We s te rn e r d id s h a re w ith R o a rk

ro o ms a n d v e ry b e a u tifu l w o me n w o rk in g th e re .

w as a th irs t fo r d rin k . B u t, w h ile a g o o d b u z z

“ Th e la s t th in g I w a n t to d o is p a y to s in g w ith

gave R o a rk a h e a lth y g lo w, th e p a le , d o u g h y

s o me g irl, ” s a id Th e K id .

flesh o n Th e We s te rn e r ’s c h e e k s s e e me d to ta k e

Th e We s te rn e r lo o k e d a t R o a rk a n d I a s if w e w e re

on a re d d is h b lu s h , a s if h e ’d b e e n s la p p e d , a n d

re s p o n s ib le fo r e d u c a tin g o u r y o u n g frie n d in th e

I not ic e d a fin e , s p id e ry n e tw o rk o f v e in s th a t

w a y s o f th e w o rld a n d th a t w e h a d fa ile d b a d ly.

seem e d to e me rg e o n h is p a llid fa c e . A s w e w a lk e d b e s id e th e riv e r, Th e We s te rn e r The firs t b a r w e e n te re d d re w o u r a tte n tio n b y th e

g re e d ily e y e d th e w o rk in g g irls w h o p lie d th e ir

Russia n mo to rc y c le s p a rk e d o u ts id e . I w o n d e re d

tra d e a lo n g th e b a n k s o f Th e H a n . Th e K id

if w e w e re e n te rin g D a N a n g ’s v e rs io n o f a b ik e r

trie d , in v a in , to s te e r h is a tte n tio n to w a rd s a

bar, a n d w a s re lie v e d to h e a r th a t s o me ra re Stu d io

p a rtic u la r A me ric a n a n d th e u rg e n t n e e d to lo c a te

O ne s in g le s w e re p la y in g o n th e ju k e b o x a n d th e

h im. “ Th e re a re h u n d re d s o f g u y s w h o fit th a t

mariju a n a le a f ic o n o g ra p h y w a s o n p ro min e n t

d e s c rip tio n , ” s n a p p e d Th e We s te rn e r. “ Th o u s a n d s .

displa y o n b o th th e w a lls a n d t-s h irts w o rn b y

Yo u ’re try in g to fin d a n e e d le in a h a y s ta c k . ”

THE INSPIRATION IS HARD TO AVOID IN HA LONG BAY.

MYTHS, RUMORS, LEGENDS & LIES

A R E V I VA L I S T P U B L I C AT I O N

VIETNAM

THE ROARK REVIVAL VOLUME 10

STRANGE DAZE IN A HANOI HAZE

Thing s w e n t a w ry a fte r th a t. Th e K id h a d lo s t

Th e K id fle w h o me w ith o u t s a y in g g o o d b y e b u t

the c o n fid e n c e o f h is e d ito rs , h a d s q u a n d e re d th e

R o a rk d id , to my g re a t re lie f, s e c u re a re tu rn tic k e t

resou rc e s a llo tte d to h im a n d h a d , a fte r a ll is s a id

to K a th ma n d u a n d s o me mo n e y fo r my tro u b le s ,

and d o n e , n o th in g to s h o w fo r h is e ffo rts , b e s id e s

b e fo re h e le ft. If h e h a d p ro v e n to b e a fa ilu re o r

a lon g lis t o f q u e s tio n a b le e x p e n s e s . Th e K id h a d ,

a p u rp o s e le s s h u s tle r, it d id n ’t s e e m to b o th e r h im

himse lf, fu lly lo s t c o n fid e n c e in R o a rk a n d e v e n

in th e le a s t. R o a rk a n d I h a d a fe w d a y s to s p e n d

in the p o s s ib ility, le t a lo n e p ro b a b ility, th a t th e

to g e th e r, b e fo re my flig h t, a n d s o me s u rp lu s d o n g

famo u s a c to r ’s s o n w a s s till a liv e . H e h a d p la c e d

to s p e n d . “ Th e re ’s a little s w e ll ru n n in g , ” h e s a id .

too mu c h tru s t in h is s o u rc e s , h e h a d to a d mit, b u t

“ Le ts g e t a fe w w a v e s a t C h in a B e a c h . ”

he ma in ta in e d a s p e c ia l ra tio n o f re s e n tme n t fo r R oark w h o w a s , if n o t a g o d w h o fa ile d , c e rta in ly not the e x p e rie n c e d h a n d h e p re s e n te d h ims e lf to be.

Chapter

25:

EXIT THE KID 50

MYTHS, RUMORS, LEGENDS & LIES

A R E V I VA L I S T P U B L I C AT I O N

VIETNAM

THE ROARK REVIVAL VOLUME 10

STRANGE DAZE IN A HANOI HAZE

Chapter

26:

CHINA BEACH We a rri v e d i n t h e m o r n i n g a nd as the sun r ose over

I watch ed as Roark got a running start and jumped

t h e s e a a nd t h e w i n d b l e w f r om the west southwest

on the board as it passed over the first broken w ave

d i re c t l y in t o t h e f a c e o f t h e waves that seemed to

to r each him, then paddle outside the lineup on his

s t a n d u p a g a i n s t t h e w i n d b e f or e pitching f or war d.

knees.

On e i t h e r s i d e o f m e I s a w a str ip of stand that

me of a film I had seen in my youth, a travel film

e x t e n d e d f o r m i l e s a n d I w a tched f r om the beach,

about tw o surfers w ho travel the w orld in search

wi t h t h e w i n d b l o w i n g a t my back as Roar k,

of the perfect w ave and I felt like that moment

re u n i t e d w i t h s o m e o l d f r i e nds f r om the Da Nang

in time w as being repeated. I w atched Roark as

Su rf C l u b p a d d l e d o u t o n a bor r owed boar d that,

he r ode some w aves w ith uncommon grace and

I l e a rn e d l a t e r, h a d b e e n b r ought to the beach at

I r ealiz ed, as I did w hen I last saw Roark w ith

h i s re q u e s t . I t w a s l o n g e r t han the boar ds that the

a sur f board under his arm on a H imalayan slope

Vi e t n a m e s e w e r e r i d i n g . A s ide f r om a f ew patched

f ar f r om the sea, that the ocean is w here each

d i n g s , t h e b o a r d w a s i n g o od shape f or one of its

adventure of Roark’s ends.

v i n t a g e a n d , a s i d e f r o m t h e wood tail block, its

And where it begins again.

It w as a timeless moment that reminded

m o s t d i s t i n g u i s h i n g f e a t u r e was a small icon that re a d “ Ki l g o r e . ”

MYTHS, RUMORS, LEGENDS & LIES

A R E V I VA L I S T P U B L I C AT I O N

VIETNAM

THE ROARK REVIVAL VOLUME 10

STRANGE DAZE IN A HANOI HAZE

Chapter

27:

THE BRIDGE

R oark e x ite d th e w a te r a n d a fte r h a n d in g th e

p a lm-le a f c o n ic a l h a t a n d w h a t lo o k e d lik e b la c k

board o ff to o n e o f h is frie n d s I fo llo w e d a fe w

p a ja ma s . It w a s C u o n g ! H e ro w e d w ith u n e x p e c te d

steps b e h in d R o a rk a s h e le ft th e s h o re lin e a n d

s ta min a a n d th e b o a t, w ith its o v e rlo a d e d c a rg o ,

heade d in la n d , lik e s o me p rimo rd ia l c re a tu re th a t

g lid e d a lo n g a t a s te a d y p a c e . I lo o k e d to w a rd s

had f irs t le ft th e s e a , h e a d in g w e s t in to th e s u n .

th e b a n k s w ith a s e n s e o f w o n d e r a s th e fa d e d

H e se e me d re in v ig o ra te d a fte r h is time s p e n t in

fa c a d e s o f b u ild in g s a lo n g th e riv e rfro n t, w ith

the oc e a n a n d I re c o g n iz e d th a t h e w a s n o t a ma n

th e ir d iffe re n t s h a d e s o f y e llo w, s e e me d to b e lo n g

of eith e r th e s e a o r la n d b u t b o th . I h a d tro u b le

to n o t o n ly a n o th e r c o u n try, b u t a n o th e r c e n tu ry.

keepin g u p , a s my s h o e s h a d fille d w ith s a n d , b u t

We p a s s e d o ld te a w a re h o u s e s , C h in e s e te mp le s ,

R oark s e e me d to flo a t a b o v e th e lo o s e fo u n d a tio n

a n d th e h o u s e s o f me rc h a n ts a n d s tre e ts lit w ith

effortle s s ly. Su d d e n ly th e d o u b ts th a t h a d e n te re d

p a p e r la n te rn s , p a s s in g a n d a n c ie n t c o v e re d b rid g e

my th o u g h ts in th e p re v io u s d a y s re g a rd in g my

b u ilt b y th e me rc h a n ts , a n d th e n C u o n g p u le d u p

friend v a n is h e d . H e le d me to w a rd s th e h e a rt o f

to th e riv e rb a n k .

an an c ie n t p o rt to w n , H o i A n , a n d , I w o u ld s o o n learn , th e h e a rt o f th e my s te ry.

R o a rk h e lp e d me o ff th e te e te rin g b o a t a n d I fo llo w e d h im, e v e n mo re c o n fu s e d , a s h e w a lk e d

To our le ft w a s C u a D a i e s tu a ry a n d th e b rin y

w ith d e te rmin a tio n , p a s t th e b a rs a n d ta ilo r s h o p s

smell th a t w a s c a rrie d b y th e o n s h o re b re e z e , w a s

th a t c a te re d to th e to u ris t tra d e , u n til w e re a c h e d a

repla c e d b y th a t o f s w e e t w a te r. So o n th e d is tin c t

n a rro w a lle y th a t s e e me d s o s ma ll a n d u n a s s u min g

aroma s o f c iv iliz a tio n e n te re d o u r n o s trils a n d th e

th a t it c o u ld n o t b e fo u n d o n a n y ma p . Th e re h e

sound s o f th e g u lls fo llo w in g th e fis h in g v e s s e ls

w a lk e d u p to a lime g re e n d o o r th e p a in t fa d e d

that w e re c h u g g in g u p riv e r w ith th e ir mo rn in g

w ith a g e , a n d k n o c k e d . It w a s o n ly th e n th a t h e

catch w a s d ro w n e d o u t b y th e n o is e s o f th e c ity.

tu rn e d to w a rd s me a n d s mile d .

I contin u e d to fo llo w R o a rk a s h e le d me , w ith o u t expla n a tio n , to w a rd s a d e s tin a tio n I k n e w n o th in g about . H e s to p p e d a t th e riv e rs e d g e a n d s p o k e to an o ld fis h e rma n w h o w e a rin g th e tra d itio n a l

MYTHS, RUMORS, LEGENDS & LIES

A R E V I VA L I S T P U B L I C AT I O N

VIETNAM

THE ROARK REVIVAL VOLUME 10

STRANGE DAZE IN A HANOI HAZE

OUT OF THE SHADOW

Chapter

28:

Th e d o o r o p e n e d a n d I fo u n d my s e lf g a z in g u p o n a fa c e th a t a p p e a re d b o th fa milia r a n d u n fa milia r; I h a d s e e n it o n c e b e fo re , I th o u g h t, s h o rtly a fte r my a rriv a l in H a n o i, a n d th o u g h I h a d b u t a b rie f g limp s e , it h a d le ft a n in d e lib le imp re s s io n o n me . It w a s th e fa c e o f th e lu min o u s b e a u ty I h a d s e e n R o a rk ta lk in g to in th e lo b b y o f th e H ilto n H o te l b u t, s ta n d in g b u t a fe w fe e t a w a y fro m h e r, in th e a n c ie n t q u a rte r o f H o i A n , I h a d c a u s e to q u e s tio n w h e th e r my e y e s w e re d e c e iv in g me . I h a d re ma in e d th e w o n d e r a s b o th b e a u tifu l a n d y o u n g b u t th e lo n g b la c k h a ir th a t fra me d th e p e rfe c t s y mme try o f h e r fa c e w a s fle c k e d w ith g ra y a n d th e s mo o th p o rc e la in s k in th a t h a d , fro m a fa r, b e tra y e d n o fla w, n o w s h o w e d th e fin e lin e s o f a g e . H o w a s it p o s s ib le th a t th is w o ma n h a d a g e d d e c a d e s in a h a n d fu l o f d a y s ? Th e re w a s o n e d is tin g u is h in g d e ta il in h e r a p p e a ra n c e , h o w e v e r, th a t w a s s ig n ific a n t e n o u g h to b a n is h a ll d o u b ts th a t th is w a s th e s a me w o ma n : h e r o p a le s c e n t lig h t g re e n e y e s th a t s e e me d , if p o s s ib le , e v e n mo re p a le th a n w h e n I firs t g a z e d u p o n th e m. N e ith e r je t la g n o r d e liriu m c o u ld s a tis fa c to rily e x p la in a n y mis a p p re h e n s io n . I h a d , d u rin g my ma n y y e a rs o f w a n d e rin g , w itn e s s e d ma n y w o n d e rs th a t w e re imp e rv io u s to my We s te rn lo g ic , e s p e c ia lly a s I tra v e le d to th e n e th e r re g io n s w h e re s a in ts , my s tic s a n d s h a ma n s h a v e re s is te d th e d riv e o f mo d e rn ity a n d ma g ic w a s w o v e n in to th e fa b ric o f e v e ry d a y life . I le a rn e d th a t n o t o n ly is th e ma p n o t th e te rrito ry b u t th a t re g a rd le s s o f w h a t c o u n try â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s n a me is s ta mp e d o n th e p a s s p o rt, w e ma y d is c o v e r th a t w e h a v e tre s p a s s e d in to a p a ra lle l te rrito ry, a te rra in c o g n ita th a t re s is ts th e b e s t e ffo rts o f c a rto g ra p h e rs .

MYTHS, RUMORS, LEGENDS & LIES

A R E V I VA L I S T P U B L I C AT I O N

VIETNAM

THE ROARK REVIVAL VOLUME 10

Chap t e r

2 9 :

STRANGE DAZE IN A HANOI HAZE

INTO THE SUN

I fo l l o we d R o a r k i n t o t h e h ouse and the two of us

their spines, one that stood out from the others. I

we re l e ft a l o n e i n a s i t t i n g r oom while the woman

r ecognized its title, w ritten in English, and recall

d i s a p p e a r e d i n t o a n o t h e r door or, I wonder ed,

that I had read it many years before, a kind of

i n t o a n o t h e r d i m e n s i o n . I s canned the r oom about

guilty pleasure since I rarely w asted my times

m e , m y e y e s f i x i n g o n t h e details f r om which one

r eading the memoirs or autobiographies of famous

m i g h t l e a r n s o m e t h i n g o f the inhabitants. T he

people, let alone movie stars, regardless of their

ro o m wa s d a r k , d o m i n a t e d by r eds and blues,

r eputat ion as rapscallions.

a n d a m o n g t h e C h i n o i s e r i e , including r ed lacquer c a b i n e t s , t h e r e w a s l o c a l h andicr af ts, some pieces

T he door opened and the girl w ith green eyes

o f t a t t e re d E m p i r e f u r n i t u r e and f aded str iped

r etur ned, w ith all her youthful beauty restored,

wa l l p a p e r. T h e d é c o r w a s a mélange of E ast and

and threw herself into Roark’s w aiting arms. She

We s t , n o t u n c o m m o n i n p l a ces that still bear tr aces

was f ollow ed an instant later by her doppelganger,

o f t h e i r c o l o n i a l p a s t , a n d I had a sense that this

her double, the green eyed beauty as she w ould

s m a l l , d i m l y l i t r o o m , w a s haunted by the past,

be in twenty or so years. My understanding of the

t h a t we w e r e a m o n g t h e g o o d ghosts and those that

myster y w as nearly complete w hen, as recognition

we re m o r e m e l a n c h o l y t h a n malevolent. T hen my

dawned, another door opened, flooding the room

e y e s l i g h t e d u p o n a c o u p l e of things that stir r ed

with light and there stood a man w ho appeared

a d a wn i n g r e c o g n i t i o n . I saw, f ir st a batter ed

to be in his early seventies holding a bottle of

c a m e ra w i t h a d e n t e d l e n s h ood and wor n leather

cobr a wine, in w hose face one could still see a

s t ra p . I p i c k e d u p t h e o l d L e ica and noted both its

r esemblance to an idol of my boyhood and his

we i g h t i n m y h a n d a n d i t s age and my thoughts

celluloid bravery on battlefields and aboard

ra n t o h o w m a n y r o l l s o f f ilm had r un thr ough

pir ate ships.

t h e c a m e r a , h o w m a n y i m a ges exposed, and how m a n y d e a t h s h a d b e e n r e c or ded, how many last

“P r omises are easy to break, but friendships are

m o m e n t s , a n d t h e t o l l i t m ust take, upon the man

not.” Roark later told me. The K id learned that the

wh o s n a p s t h e s h u t t e r, t o p onder the signif icance

har d way - his intentions w ere impure. A few days

o f s e i z i n g t h e s e m o m e n t s in time, captur ed in

later I made my w ay back to the H imalayas w ith

l i g h t a n d s h a d o w. I s a w a mong a stack of books,

the lingering psychedelic effects of cobra w ine. I

t h e i r t i t l e s w r i t t e n i n F r e n ch and Vietnamese on

was not to see or hear from Roark for years.

GIMME SHELTER

MYTHS, RUMORS, LEGENDS & LIES

A R E V I VA L I S T P U B L I C AT I O N

VIETNAM

THE ROARK REVIVAL VOLUME 10

STRANGE DAZE IN A HANOI HAZE

JAMIE THOMAS IMPROVISING | HANOI

MYTHS, RUMORS, LEGENDS & LIES

A R E V I VA L I S T P U B L I C AT I O N

VIETNAM

THE ROARK REVIVAL VOLUME 10

R O A RK

STRANGE DAZE IN A HANOI HAZE

R E V I VA L I S T

JAMIE THOMAS A f e w Wo r d s f r o m J A M I E A s a newcomer to the Roar kRevival, th is excursion to Vietnam would be my f ir st exper ience w ith this group o f seasoned adventur er s. Af ter a 24 hour stint of land a nd air tr avel we ar r ived in the busy city of hanoi and a f ter getting settled in the hotel a f ew of us anxiously h it the str eets to r oll ar ound and get acquainted w ith t he inf amous Nor th Vietnamese city. You’ r e har d pr essed to think about the 1960’s or 7 0’s without some image per taining to the Vietnam War enter ing your mind. Claiming the lives of nearly 6 0,000 US tr oops, the Vietnam War w as easily one o f the most contr over sial war s ever and as a result i ncited a peace movement that swept ac ross the united s tates. With near ly 2 decades of documented conflict, t he imager y is plentif ul and is the backdrop for the c ountr y’s histor y. T his level of conf lict tends to per meate ones thoughts a nd it’s har d to imagine that as an american, w e w ould b e welcomed with anything but discord or strife. I’m n ot sur e if our f or ef ather s have been forgiven or if i t was the sight of our convoy r ipping through the c ountr yside, but we wer e gr eeted w ith smiles and w aves ever ywher e we went.

J A M I E

MYTHS, RUMORS, LEGENDS & LIES

A R E V I VA L I S T P U B L I C AT I O N

VIETNAM

T H O M A S

D A

N A N G ,

V I E T N A M

THE ROARK REVIVAL VOLUME 10

STRANGE DAZE IN A HANOI HAZE

JAMIE THOMAS WALL RIDE | HANOI.

THE ‘CASSIUS’ KNIFE

MYTHS, RUMORS, LEGENDS & LIES

A R E V I VA L I S T P U B L I C AT I O N

WITH A LITTLE HELP FROM A FRIEND

VIETNAM

THE ROARK REVIVAL VOLUME 10

Photography by

MYTHS, RUMORS, LEGENDS & LIES

STRANGE DAZE IN A HANOI HAZE

Photography by

JAMIE THOMAS

A R E V I VA L I S T P U B L I C AT I O N

VIETNAM

JAMIE THOMAS

THE ROARK REVIVAL VOLUME 10

STRANGE DAZE IN A HANOI HAZE

A f e w Wo r d s f r o m N AT E N obo d y s h o u ld e v e r h a v e to e n d u re a H a n o i h e a t

d a y s u p h e re in th e h ig h la n d s a n d h o w w o u ld

w ave . It’s s tic k y, fe v e ris h , n o n -e n d u ra b le a n d

th a t life b e ? Th e b ik e is s o lo u d it mu ffle s th e

entire ly fu c k e d . Yo u r b ra in s w e lls a n d te lls y o u to

q u e s tio n s in y o u r h e a d . B ra in w a v e s o n ly re a c h

get o u t o f th e c ity. C la rity fin d s y o u o n a lo s t ro a d

a s fa r a s th e lig h t in fro n t o f y o u . D riv e . Sh ift.

in a v illa g e w ith n o n a me , s tra p p e d to th e s id e c a r

B ra k e . Tu rn . Sh ift. D riv e . A c u te mo n o to n y tu rn s

of a R u s s ia n b ik e in a c o mmu n is t c o u n try. Yo u a re

in to a b s o lu te th rill e v e ry fe w min u te s a s y o u ta k e

not swe a ty b u t y o u h a v e n o t p is s e d in h o u rs . Yo u r

y o u rs e lf d e e p e r in to th e u n k n o w n . Yo u a re e ig h t

pours a re le a k in g a n d y o u c a n ’t s e e m to n o tic e

th o u s a n d mile s fro m h o me . N o th in g c a n

becaus e lo o k a t w h a t’s in fro n t o f y o u . B o th s id e s

to u c h y o u .

of the v a lle y s ta re b a c k a t y o u a s y o u rid e a c ro s s

ROA R K

R E V I VA L I S T

N AT E Z O L L E R

the ric e fie ld . C h ild re n ’s e y e s lig h t u p a s th e ir

Yo u s p o k e o n ly a h a n d fu l o f w o rd s a lo n g th e

hands w a v e h e llo . Th e re ’s n o w h e re e ls e y o u ’d

tw e lv e -h o u r rid e y e t th e d ia lo g u e w a s n e v e r

rathe r b e th a n rig h t h e re a t th is mo me n t.

e n d in g . R id in g liv e s in th e mo me n t b e tw e e n th in k in g a n d a c tin g . Ze ro h e s ita tio n . C o mp le te

A nd th e n th e s u n fa d e s a n d th e rid e is h o u rs

c o n fid e n c e . A n d y o u ma d e it, d u s te d u p fro m h e a d

from e n d . Pa v e me n t tu rn s to d irt a s th e p la te a u

to to e w ith a h u n g e r in y o u r s to ma c h fo r mo re .

turns to mo u n ta in . Yo u rid e o n in to th e d a rk n e s s ,

Th e a ir fe e ls c o o l a n d th e fo o d ta s te s b e tte r u p

sungl a s s e s s tra p p e d to y o u r fa c e a n d d irt lin in g

h e re . Yo u s c o ff th ird s a n d a fte r a h a n d fu l o f B ia

your e y e b ro w s . Th e ro a d g e ts s te e p e r, p o th o le s

H a N o i’s y o u c limb in to y o u r b e d in s id e a n e t o n

get de e p e r a n d tu rn s b e c o me s h a rp e r. Yo u fo c u s

to p o f a tre e h o u s e o v e rlo o k in g th e v a lle y b e lo w.

as if n o th in g e ls e ma tte rs b u t th e te n fe e t in fro n t

Th is is Sh a n g ri-La .

of yo u . A s in g le th o u g h t re ma in s in y o u r h e a d : A baby b e c o me s a ma n o n e d a y a t a time .

Yo u fa ll a s le e p k n o w in g th a t to mo rro w is a q u e s tio n o n ly a n s w e re d b y th e p a c e o f to d a y.

H ours p a s s a n d a s te a d y c limb s e e s y o u c lo s in g in on lig h ts in th e d is ta n c e . Yo u r min d b e g in s decid in g w h a t th e y c o u ld b e . W h o s p e n d s th e ir

N AT E

MYTHS, RUMORS, LEGENDS & LIES

A R E V I VA L I S T P U B L I C AT I O N

VIETNAM

Z O L L E R

D A

N A N G ,

V I E T N A M

THE ROARK REVIVAL VOLUME 10

STRANGE DAZE IN A HANOI HAZE

NATE ZOLLERâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S BOARD GOT DRUNK ON THE JUNQUE BOAT AND THE CREW DREW ALL OVER IT.

SURF CHECK AT FIRST LIGHT. DA NANG, VIETNAM

DA NANG, VIETNAM

MYTHS, RUMORS, LEGENDS & LIES

A R E V I VA L I S T P U B L I C AT I O N

VIETNAM

THE ROARK REVIVAL VOLUME 10

R O A RK

STRANGE DAZE IN A HANOI HAZE

R E V I VA L I S T

DYLAN GORDON A f e w Wo r d s f r o m J A M I E As a newcomer to the R oarkRevival, this excursion to Vietnam would be my first experience w ith this group of seasoned adve nturers. A fter a 24 hour stint of land and air tr avel we arrived in the busy city of hanoi and af ter getting settled in the hotel a few of us anxiously hit the str eets to roll around and get acquainted w ith the inf amous North Vietnamese city. You’ r e har d pr essed to think about the 1960’s or 70’s without some image pertaining to the Vietnam War enter ing you r mind. C laiming the lives of nearly 60,000 US tr oops, the Vietnam War w as easily one of the most controversial w ars ever and as a result incited a peace movement that sw ept across the united states. With nearly 2 decades of documented conflict, the imager y is plentiful and is the backdrop for the countr y’s histor y. T his level of con flict tends to permeate ones thoughts and it’s har d to imagine that as an american, w e w ould be welcomed wit h anything but discord or strife. I’m not sur e if our forefathers have been forgiven or if it was the sight of our convoy ripping through the countr yside, but w e w ere greeted w ith smiles and waves ever ywhere w e w ent.

DYLAN OFTEN THREW SHAKAS IN THE NORTHERN REGION OF VIETNAM, THE ROADSIDE KIDS PICKED IT UP AND BEGAN TO THROW THEM BACK IN GOOD FAITH.

MYTHS, RUMORS, LEGENDS & LIES

A R E V I VA L I S T P U B L I C AT I O N

VIETNAM

THE ROARK REVIVAL VOLUME 10

MYTHS, RUMORS, LEGENDS & LIES

A R E V I VA L I S T P U B L I C AT I O N

STRANGE DAZE IN A HANOI HAZE

VIETNAM

THE ROARK REVIVAL VOLUME 10

TRIP LONGER

MYTHS, RUMORS, LEGENDS & LIES

A R E V I VA L I S T P U B L I C AT I O N

VIETNAM