PINWHEEL Magazine by PINWHEEL Magazine

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LADIES AND GENTLEMEN WELCOME TO THE DEBUT ISSUE OF PINWHEEL MAGAZINE. We’re excited to be offering on-trend stories and insights into the talent of tomorrow; we like to call it ‘Talent Forecasting’. We don’t want to limit the scope of discovery to you the readers, so we will be focusing on the key areas that shape our lives, including culture and design, fashion, entrepreneurial uprising and the trends shaping digital media and our everyday lives. We are focusing on the solutions, which are the people and services providing positive visions and products for our wonder and delight.

Meanwhile, we are delighted to have on our debut front cover a photograph from exciting Dutch photographer Jaap Scheeren’s latest series of work. Check out the exclusive interview with Jaap Scheeren inside, along with a selection of his work. Over the coming weeks and months we will be looking to you to help us develop and improve, taking advantage of your views and suggestions is great for our editorial team as we look to curate a magazine and website that tailors to everyone’s taste.

We have big ambitions and will continue our expansion across the Web and Social Medias over the coming months, whilst introducing exclusive video content streaming interviews

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We are the ‘gap’ in an overfilled mainstream marketplace; this is about the new and the ‘what’s next?’ We will also be carefully sourcing our content internationally, giving you the reader, no matter where you are, the fairest and most insightful experience, through beautifully crafted graphic design and layout, whilst providing just and thought provoking editorial and quality journalism with photography that is readily available to everyone. We don’t believe in being ‘elitist’ and it is very important that we value and cater for our readers to feel part of the international Pinwheel family.

Judging by what you can see from our debut issue, what else do we need to do to adapt to the future that’s already arrived?

Pinwheel will give you the first chance to meet the shapers and the movers, providing exclusives that cannot be found in any other publication.

and reviews from the latest talent internationally.

TO KEEP UP TO DATE WITH PINWHEEL’S LAUNCH, EXCITING DEVELOPMENTS AND TO GET ACROSS YOUR THOUGHTS THEN TAKE TO TWITTER AND FOLLOW US @PinwheelMag OR SEARCH FOR US ON FACEBOOK.

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EDITORIAL Editor in Chief & Founder Andrew Bartle ab@pinwheeldigital.com Creative Director & Photographer Johanne Lian Olsen jlo@pinwheeldigital.com Writer (International) Andrew Bartle ab@pinwheeldigital.com DISTRIBUTIONS & SUBSCRIPTIONS Brand & Magazine Distributions Distributions Staff psupport@pinwheeldigital.com Subscriptions & E-Commerce Support Staff psupport@pinwheeldigital.com OPPORTUNITIES & ADVERTISING Freelance Opportunities Freelance Staff freelance@pinwheeldigital.com Advertising Enquiries Advertising Staff ad@pinwheeldigital.com For more information and full details visit: Web: pinwheeldigital.com Twitter: @PinwheelMag Facebook: PINWHEEL Magazine

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TREND FORECASTING PINWHEEL TALKS EXCLUSIVELY TO SENIOR RESEARCH FELLOW MARIA MACKINNEYVALENTIN OF THE ROYAL DANISH ACADEMY OF FINE ARTS, DESIGN SCHOOL IN COPENHAGEN ABOUT TRENDS IN 2012 AND HOW THIS MAY AFFECT THE FUTURE ENVIRONMENTS IN BUSINESS, FASHION AND RETAIL.

‘T LE REN TH AD D IN EI A S D O DE R O LIF O TH RG PE W E N AB EY AN ND N ON OT AL O A IS E LIK O UT RE MS NT E N M N A E’ A O N . IN T D ST RE AM

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Where do we stand in 2012 with trends? Taking into consideration economical, technological and social issues that we are all effected by. There would be no trends without consumers. Trends occur and develop out of our need for communicating as individuals, as a group and In relation to the events around us. So when we look at trends right not as we are hopefully moving out of recession, they are influenced by our modest optimism for the future mixed in with the growing need for us to see our unique selves in the products we surround ourselves with. What actually constitutes the make-up of the term â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;trendâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;? Does it differ over time or do the key elements always remain the same despite greater marketing capabilities? The term trend is originally a maritime term referring to the curve of a coastline so trend can be said to refer to a tendency of a development to move in

a certain direction. Looking at trend theory historically, there are some basic mechanisms driving trends that are more or less the same as they have been over the past two centuries. Especially, the drive for social distinction and imitation as a motor in trends was also prevalent in the 19th century, though the conditions for status representation were quite different for instance in term of having the access and privilege of engaging in trends. What distinguishes someone who is just being different from someone who is setting a trend? A trend is always collective. That is why regardless of all the talk of individualism, user-driven innovation and DIY there are still trends. We use trends in for instance fashion to communicate which group we belong to â&#x20AC;&#x201C; or would like to belong to. The Internet is helping consumers by allowing them to be more informed and helping them to decide on their

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purchases based on reviews, forums and various forms of social media. But what does this mean for retailers? As it cannot be denied that consumers are becoming increasingly sophisticated at multichannel shopping. So what take would you give on improving brands and retailers needs to better align their business operating models with consumer sophistication and experience?

The power of social media is to be underestimated at a brand or retailers peril, it can with certainty be stated. Some smart brands and retailers (from various forms of research) are leveraging the interest in Pinterest and are creating virtual inspiration boards, inviting the masses to participate in the design process by uploading images. What are your feelings towards brands and companies using social media as tools for sense and visual future impact on new lines and designs?

‘IT TH IS W AT IMP O HI TR O IN BV LE B EN RTA P TO IO R DS N CO INT SO US AND AR T TO IM N ER C INT S E R CR PA SU EST IAL ER HA SO EM IS E CT ME TO M ES VE CIA EM SE LIM ATIN ON R B U EDI T IN AN L S BE O R N IT G C EH NE A S TA SE E A U O S P A D R ’. IN OC NS VIO TH CH PIN AS G TH IAL UM U E ID ER R, T CO E S H M NTIT WH E M Y E ER N CI AL

The power struggle between consumers on the one hand and designers and retailers on the other has intensified with the development in digital media. But consumers still want to be seduced, so the power struggle is more of a symbolic nature and says more about the values

are endowed with the sense of seeing things in a new way.

consumers wish to communicate than an actual desire to be in control. So I think retailers need to think in ‘open’ products that consumers can make their own. This might be in control. Consumers want to be able to finish the product in the sense of experiencing a sense of discovery rather than being served the whole package. This is seen in the rise of workwear as fashion. Until recently, workwear was generally considered functional rather than fashionable. However, appropriating functional wear to fashion allows for the consumers to rediscover the aesthetic because they

It is important to remember that trends are

social so while brands have an obvious interest in tapping into social media such as Pinterest to unearth consumer behaviour, the impact on consumers when creating social identity is limited in the commercial sense for now there are interesting prospects in terms of new angles on co-creation that will be interesting to follow.

You write in your dissertation ‘On the Nature of Trends’, that ‘in fashion forecasting and marketing, trends are generally seen as a succession of chronological steps, and trends are therefore measured according to the

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duration and process of adoption rendering trends a temporal rather than a spatial phenomenon’. Could you elaborate a little in regards to these ‘chronological steps’, possibly referring to an example for our readers (given that we as a consumer give away so much personal information and opinion that brands and fashion can hardly fail to notice what the demand and consensus for what the ‘next’ trend should be).

In most trend forecasting, trends are seen as a progression over time that is measured according to the adoption process with innovators and early adopters as the social drivers of the development followed by mainstream and laggards as finishing the trend off. This implies several things, for instance that trends begin and end at specific points, that trends shift radically and at a relatively high speed. However, looking at trends since the turn of the 21st century, they tend to follow less linear patterns. Contemporary trends tend to move relatively slowly, they change gradually and according to mutations and variations rather than radical shifts, meaning that one trend will grow into the next. This approach to trends is less temporal that that of the trend forecasters and more spatial in the sense of moving in dimensions. Is there a danger that giving away so much information and inspiration for designers and brands via social tools could leave the market flooded with ‘already seen’ pieces and conscious plagiarism for next season’s lines. Should there be a ‘trend’ in turning a blind eye and taking as little inspiration as possible to create a fresh look? Inspiration does not come from one place and the notion of novelty as an objective phenomenon does not exists. So designers are good at rediscovering, reinterpreting or combining elements in new ways so they feel new and fresh. I hope you don’t mind if I pose a more general ‘trend’ question to you. With a continuous obsession with ‘trends’ in various sectors, do you feel that this is having

a detrimental effect on communities, media, businesses etc? Instead of thinking for oneself and making up one’s own mind about the world, some could argue that (without statement but more implication) certain sectors have become content to adopt a “follow the herd” mentality. Trends do not lead a life on their own like independent organisms and they are not about mainstream alone. I am sure that entrepreneurs and established companies alike will continue to strive for innovation and development. As some final thoughts for our readers and ourself to consider, what do you feel brands, businesses and fashion should be doing better in communicating trends? Should the future be more open and expressive e.g. is 24-7 social interaction good for the future? Plus how can we as consumers become better educated in the machine and mechanisms of ‘trends’? It is important to understand that trends are about us – how we try to communicate with others, how we try to understand the events and values around us, and status representation. So I think more knowledge about trends in this respect is needed and more dissemination of the state of the art research in the fields to help make the perception of and work with trends even more knowledge based. If you are interested in reading more about Maria Mackinney-Valentin’s in-depth research on trends then look up her fascinating dissertation published in 2010 entitled ‘On The Nature of Trends – A Study of Trend Mechanisms in Contemporary Fashion’.

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JAAP SCHEEREN TALKS TO PINWHEEL CANDIDLY ABOUT LIFE, MINDSET AND HOW HE WOULD APPROACH TEACHING.

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PINWHEEL ALSO SHOWCASES JAAP SCHEEREN’S BODY OF WORK ENTITLED ‘THIS SPOT MIGHT MEAN SHIT TO YOU BUT IS THE WORLD TO ME’. SCHEEREN DESCRIBES THIS SERIES OF WORK BY PUTTING FORWARD THESE QUESTIONS: WHAT IS YOUR SPOT OR HOME PORT AND WHAT DOES THIS MEAN? WHAT ARE YOUR CHOICES, WHERE DO YOU LEARN TO KNOW YOURSELF AND WHAT / WHO IS YOUR PRIMARY TEACHER? 15

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16 Maybe a tad predictably weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d like to find out about your first experience with photography. Tell me about your first steps behind the lens and why it became so interesting? I failed chemistry and my mother made me take some tests to see what I wanted to do in life. Theologist or something where there would be no authority was the result. I chose to do an extensive art course where you work with all different media. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve been interested in looking and thinking about what I see and what it means so when it was photographies turn to be tested, I instantly saw that a camera takes a cut out of the reality you see. I really enjoyed this.

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So put yourself in the shoes of a college / university photography lecturer. You have an eager class in front of you awaiting your teaching methods and motivational advice. How would you go about it? Tell them about the reality I am in. Analogue or digital? Why? Analogue because of the way of working and finishing.

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What’s your advice to those wanting to get to a good ‘competitive’ level in the photographic / arts field? Is education the be all and end all? It seems that some students are pressured by grades and in-class rivalries, is this actually the right way to be going about things? Work hard and don’t be afraid to do make things and show them. Go to a school where they set the bar high and don’t give grades. Rivalry is always good, but not if you can’t share. Remember that if you don’t think you can make something better and more interesting,there’s no need to continue. So you have to be annoyed or angry or anything to make work.

Talk us through the process in getting to a body work being exhibited / published? Is it a 24/7 strategic plan or more impromptu? The plan is to have the right people so much interested in your work that they would like to share what they see. First things first, at least for me, so I decided to mostly focus on making work. If it needs to become something, as a question or because the project is finished, you try ad decide what to do next and who would be interested.

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What motivates you day-to-day? To learn something new Talk us through your work space (be it in the office / studio / in nature) whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s essential and whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the set-up look like? My safe, my computer, my empty studio playground space, my table tennis, my books and to be surrounded by my work is the most essential.

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Back to your work, it appears (in a Pinwheel perception) that your work is rather contrived. So is your work contrived or spontaneous? Isn’t all you see around you already contrived....your nails, your pubic hair, your clothes, your house, your car, your street, where the trees are and so on and so on? Is there truth and is there something called spontaneity or is it something that is triggered by someone who already thought he wants to do so and so? Can’t spontaneity only exist within the borders of something contrived. It at least doesn’t exist without each other. Do you feel like you’ve ‘made it’? No. Do you yourself think you can make it yourself or that you can only be made?

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WITH AN EMPHASIS ON THE PROCESS RATHER THAN THE FINAL PRODUCT, MADE SPACE IN BERLIN IS NURTURING THE NEXT GENERATION OF VISIONARIES IN THE CAPITAL.

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IN BERLIN 29

‘... AT TH ES IVE ERE LI PE EN IS TO N, CIA ER SO DL B AND LLY GY MU R C TY E E R W HE IG H RI PE OF IGH E RE HT CR EN GH OF IT, T I AR IN NO EER T N A C AN N E H BE W, GY OW A D THE AP RT A HE SO L M M PY RE IT YST AD ID E ’S ’. A FOR IS GR EA IT T

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As creatives spaces go, MADE (located just a few minutes from Alexanderplatz Bahnhof) is not your conventional everyday artists hub. Housed 9 floors up in what could be dressed as an everyday office block, we walk through the reception corridor dressed with the standard shrubbery and glossy tiling that wouldn’t look out place in a throwback to the 70’s. The elevator ride up with a variety of business people and workers doesn’t give the atmosphere of what we were about to exit onto. The 9th floor looked everything that the rest of the building couldn’t offer a creative’s imagination. A beautiful canvas of whites, with surrounding windows offering those lucky enough to be part of the space’s offerings a stunning panoramic of Berlin, unrivalled and common practice for the artist’s and founders part of the project. Greetings aside, we sat down with Nadav Mor and Nico Zeh, two of the co-founders of the proj31 ect for a sitdown interview, whilst taking in the noises and sights of the space and the surrounding, bustling Mitte district. Inspired by Andy Warhol’s original studio ‘the factory’ in new york, which was a ‘trendy’ hangout for superstars and arty types of the day. Pinwheel is intrigued to know what similarities made has in regards to the ‘fashion symbol’ that ‘the factory’ was in the 1960’s? I think these guys at that time weren’t superstars, they turned out to be superstars. I think that is something we are also about, we provide a space for talent and creative expression that are in need of a place to exchange ideas. As for Velvet Underground, they turned into a worldwide band, and without Andy Warhol or The Factory this may not have happened. The idea that inspires this platform, after meeting some people such as David LaChapelle, when creat-

ing this space, was that we felt that the same feeling is running through Berlin at the moment, freespirited and energetic (such as it was at the time in New York). The team, as we all come from different backgrounds, and not an agency, we are all friends, we all follow a certain vision and understandings, we all come from different fields, there are architects, fashion designers, and we all felt it would be nice to have this physical space to harness this creative energy that is flowing through Berlin and together we can support each other by networking. We always thought how amazing it would be to have this space where people could come to work, to think, to work. This is often an issue, as you might have this great idea, and then costs and facilities and place come into play and it makes it even harder to enable an idea. We thought there was a huge potential, and a need in Berlin and for ourselves. If you had told me 2 or 3 years ago that all this would happen in this time period I would not have believe you and I am a thinker and big dreamer, but this is bigger than we could have imagined then and now we have big ideas in here and great projects, so I can already look back and say that I am very proud of what we are all doing here. These guys are so fascinated by what we do, it’s not about the outcome, but what you do, the passion and the process, how you do it. Amazing talent, that aren’t yet known by the world, but the quality of the work is just as good visually as the work by David LaChapelle. Love and understanding for the creativity and the art, there’s a common understanding of these people coming together, if you care about what you do, and be in a space where you are comfortable doing what you do then that is what is more important.

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SUM M E R 12 From an outsider looking in, Berlin is a continually growing and thriving environment for inspiration and culture. However, are there any challenges facing artists in Berlin or Germany that you feel still need to be tackled, specifically in a time of austerity? I think it’s global, it’s wherever you go, its hard because everything is a business, controlled or run by money, so it’s not that easy to produce ideas or to enable projects, you need budgets and funding to do what you do. It filters, if its too easy and you have everything it’s sometimes hard to appreciate what you’ve got, sometimes it’s good to realise what you really want to do it in tough times and you still stick to it, stick to it, you make it and then you may get credit for it.

We’re trying to design a concept that shows that it is possible, that you can find a way to enable ideas even when you connect with industry. I think that this is not that easy as the industry has its own way of thinking. Trying to stay authentic and credible, as an artist is another issue, some amazing artists get by, staying by their roots, however they remain unseen and on the other side there is art out there that has so much and value pushed at it, that you believe that it is actually great art, and the balance in-between is the key to find. We want to motivate the industry and the art, the culture scene, which our way is that if you are really honest and communicate in the right way, you can make things happen and create. That is why we are happy that we have this partnership with ABSO-

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LUT Vodka, it’s actually possible if you have the right partner and understanding of working together that without return of investment or big time logos, only using art, we are here, we are free to work, the belief to work with us, the artist can see this, that these aren’t regular agency guys that are using me for my work to get something more out of it, but we are a team that supports creativity, this is about content and authentic partners standing next to it. After two years here now, we are showing people that it is possible, to inspire the industry and creative scene, that we can come along in such trying times and be proud of what we are building. So how would an artist or visionary go about becoming an active user of this space, is there a stringent selection process in place? We have to have regulations because we have to have a structure and we don’t want to be a regular work space for creative people. If there are some projects that someone needs to shoot, a photography project or available space, then of course we can help. That’s our connection to the art scene, as there’s an artist that needs to put on this artistic play and when we have available time, we can try to help her put on the play in this space, but the main goal, the main projects where we put our main work and everything into is into totally new pieces, new projects, so we sit and ask ourselves what it really means to produce ‘new’. I define it myself, doing something new asks you to leave what you actually do, to step out of your daily routine, to bend it, stretch it, to take it further, artists sometimes like to stay within their comfort zones, that’s why we say we want to challenge this, we want to motivate and ask creative people to step out of their comfort zone by asking them to work with someone else from another field, inspire each other, motive and challenge each other, and um, that’s something we like, and it’s something we call ‘the clash’, artists clash at MADE and whatever happens happens, and

these are the type of projects we work on here in the space. If an artist approaches us with a good idea, and we like it, we can then see what sort of direction it could go. We are not here to conceptualise work, this is not what we are about, we don’t look for people to get down on their knees in admiration of work. We are more about the creative process, a different way of thinking, the different ingredients and how it all comes together is more important than the result. The creative process is full of love and excitement and that is beautiful enough for us. We start journeys, we look for ways to make things happen, this is exciting and new for all of us.

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This should never be the end or the top of where it’s meant to be, this should be the beginning of a journey, it inspires me as a person and makes me think outside of the box. Think differently is very much what I believe needs to be translated into art and everyones mindsets right now. We are like sheep, working, following a pattern, there is always someone in society telling us ‘how we should live’. It’s like MADE, we could have had this space in a smaller environment in Kreuzberg, Berlin and been comfortable 35 with that. But it was a time to think big and dream, the partner was a perfect match, the Absolut Vodka brand started in The Factory (NY), doing the first silver screen print for the brand and artist, the kick off of the collaboration between artist and brand coming together. We thought this might be the right partner, we are confident about this, we believed in it and that was the right thing to do. Very much out of the box thinking and it worked, we didn’t play it safe.

If you are doing it for the money then you are doing it for the wrong reasons. It’s a partnership and there’s an understanding from parties with dialogues about work works and the directions both partners want to go in. We are happy having someone on board that is brining additional value and years and years of experience of working with the best of the best. Because we don’t know it all, we just know what we know, we learn everyday and we aware and try to be aware and i think if you always exchange with other good people. We both have to agree on the direction, because it’s not about the money, because if it’s just about money then there will be compromises and you won’t be happy, you take money because you may be scared, that you want safety and the security of finances. If it’s just about money then maybe getting a job and getting your monthly cheque is what you are after. I firmly believe that if you do what you love then you will be happy, with or without the money, the money will come. Would you openly encourage entrepreneurship in tough economic times? As of course it’s a risk without the security of money, but yet we are seeing a wave of new pop companies and self employed talents across the field. What are you waiting for? You should ask yourself are you happy doing what i’m doing. Why are you thinking about all these things, especially this year a lot of things are changing, today I see so many good things happening. Ten or Fifteen years ago you had to wait and be lucky for someone to hear your mix tape or your talent and hope that

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Should money be the end all of all decision making? Is it no-brainer that during difficult times and especially so for artists in all forms, that the money deal is the right one?

Kreuzberg, that would be beautiful as well, it’s just on a bigger scale here and the chances we get with the partner, it’s not about the money and it should never be about the money.

A musical artist wanted to transform music into a physical object through a robot, we programmed the robot, composing pieces for the machine, and the five different pieces were played here. It’s beautiful and creative and the videos can be seen via our website if you want to see the performances.

Go with your heart and the right people will come. Rules of life is to make compromises, you can do without loosing your way, having a financial partner doesn’t make things easier always, I’m not sure if I would be happier in my studio space in

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someone watches it. Now we have the Internet and the window of opportunity is just one click away. It’s not easy to move out of your comfort zone, whatever that might be perceived to be, be it your job, your pay cheque or your location. That next next step is never easy, but you have to take it, you might fail and you might stumble, but only through failing can you succeed, that is life, but perseverance and vision can take you to all kinds of places. Today more than ever before people are able to do it, there are no excuses. Are you happy? If the answer isn’t yes then you need

to take a look at what you are doing and where your at and make the change, it’s not easy, otherwise everyone would be doing their own thing and you just have to believe, it’s not about luck and not about money, it’s just about doing what you want to do. Work hard, sleep less, eat less, work more, we all have to make these type of scarifies to make gains and just do it. So what is a normal working day for the two of you? Is is it a case of setting your own working hours and office etiquette?

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Nico: It depends on what time we go to bed! We’re here, I think pretty much most of the day, working on our computers, meetings with you guys, artists etc. You can’t really say there are normal days. We all meet up when we get here and then we just see what the day is going to bring. As you say, there is so much creative energy right now, especially here in Berlin, and we are happy to be right in the middle of it, and MADE is type of a catalyst for it right now so it’s a great energy here. So there really is no such thing as a ‘normal working day’ for us here.

Nadav: Yeah I would agree, we’re certainly a team, plus we also do a lot of travelling as it’s really important within Germany and Internationally, the more you vist places, the more faces you see, broadening our minds and horizons is crucial. We like to travel to further our concept, representing Berlin and Germany. But it’s also great to see what our friends in Japan are doing or artists in the USA are doing, basically there is no normal routine, you never know what is going to happen. The only thing you do know is that the day starts here, but we don’t know where it’s going to end.

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We like to joke that we’re never not working, we can wake up in the middle of the night with ideas, there’s always emails to answer but it’s all about rolling with it. Nico: You actually picked a quiet day to come today so you are quite lucky. Normally this place is noisy and full of movement.Noise can be a fixture of this space for sometimes up to two months, every day, so today is a maybe that in-between period. Sometimes the light is crazy in here (he draws attention to the patented designed light fixtures in the space which can change in colour, mood, direction at any given time), it’s almost like a wonderland in here, it’s crazy but that’s what makes this space so beautiful and energetic. You can’t even imagine how it can look, it’s like a wonderland, lots of crazy stuff, it’s very exciting and special and also challenging and intense. We are not just here to open the doors,we support, we guide and we help the talent. The different teams like to work together, because there is a big difference between the idea and the concept that’s something artists are sometimes not aware of, because they just have this idea in their head, and they think we’ll just do it like this and it will work. there’s a difference with the concept, such as timing, budget structure, who’s doing what etc. Some artists have never done some of things other things, they just paint or they just photograph. That is where we come in and help them structure and give them a better understand for the entire project. Berlin is a city of vibrance and deliverance and it is only a matter of some fine investment and continuous encouragement of creatives such as those at MADE that will make the city a great place to be as it emerges over the last two decades into a strong international player in the cultural scene. Nico and Nadav are proof that hard-work and sheer passion for the day-to-day challenges are worth the effort in achieving another victory for the power of the entrepreneur. If you wish to look further at the extensive range of videos and media content from MADE then visit their website at made-blog.com.

‘W AT E A W IV R E AY E E M AL NT OF PR O IM L C IN T OC RE PO O GR HIN ES AB TH RT ME ED KI S, OU O E AN S IEN NG A T F C T T T TOG TS , T DI TH L R FO HAT OV EA H E A HE FF E C AN TH N D ER R E TIV W R TH E L U IS AN E TH ER D H IFF EN ES P D IN IN O . BE E R E IS O ER T RE M W G GS OK WE AU X OC C AN H F SU OR IT E T I D AP OR STA IFU TEM SS LT E IS . N P R L E EW EN W T N F E A U FO , T YS JOU NO T AN LL R HIS TO RN UG D AL I H L O S E MA EYS F XC KE , US IT ’. SUM M ER 12

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THE SHEFFIELD HONEY COMPANY

The Sheffield Honey Company is an award winning artisan producer of premium quality local English honey and the finest beeswax products. With a sleek logo and product branding for those who like a bit of good design, this is a win, win product. http://www.sheffield-honey.co.uk/ (United Kingdom)

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NOW THAT FACEBOOK IS FLOATING ON THE STOCK MARKET AS A PUBLIC COMPANY, YOU MIGHT BE FORGIVEN FOR THINKING THAT THIS SPECIFIC SOCIAL NETWORK IS GETTING A LITTLE TOO CORPORATE FOR ONE’S TASTES. IF SO, YOU NEED TO FEAR AS THERE ARE OPTIONS APLENTY. ALTERNATIVES HAVE BEEN AROUND AS LONG AS FACEBOOK HAS, AND A WHOLE MASS OF NEW COMPANIES AND SOCIAL MEDIAS SEEKING YOU’RE ATTENTION WOULD BE GLAD TO GET YOU SIGNED UP TO SUPPORT THE ‘LITTLE GUYS’. WE’VE SELECTED 10 FOR YOUR CONSIDERATION, SOME YOU MAY BE FAMILIAR WITH AND SOME HOPEFULLY WE’RE INTRODUCING YOU TO FOR THE FIRST TIME.

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PINTEREST 45

Certainly the hottest social network at the moment is Pinterest. The principle is basically, posting photos to your different boards, which you can categorise by interest or hobby or whatever takes your particular fancy. You can also follow your friends’ boards and comment on their pins etc. Get over to it and have a look at some others people’s boards if you’re still unsure about it, you’ll either like it or just don’t bother. pinterest.com

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PATH Path is one of several new social networks that seeks to improve on Facebook by making the experience more private and personal. Users are limited to 150 friends on the mobile-only service. A user is instructed to only add his or her closest friends. You can post photos and videos using your smartphoneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s camera, update your location, share what songs youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re listening to and more. Path has been praised for its intimate feeling and clean design. path.com

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PAIR

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If you’re really into your social media privacy (but if that is the case what are you doing with social media?) then Pair might be just the ticket for you. This is a social network in which you can only have one connection (the name is a giveaway). It is a sharing service for couples, friends, siblings etc. available on selected smartphone’s. Pair calls itself a ‘timeline for just the two of you, where you can post cute video messages and photos that no one else will see’. trypair.com

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FOURSQUARE Members note their locations with a mobile phone and can find out where friends are. This very much emphasises the ‘check-in’ mentality that is encapsulating the social media scene, why you would to reveal your whereabouts ‘live’ is another thing. foursquare.com

SUM M E R 12 Circle is an app that tells you whoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s around you, its clean, attractive design and lots of options for what information you share publicly and who can see you. You sign up for Circle with your Facebook account. The app shows you when Facebook friends are nearby, and also when friends of friends are close. You can choose to opt for on and off public visibility, if you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t want to be visible to friends of friends. Your profile shows your different Facebook networks (your college, university, hometown, etc.) Search for the app on iTunes.

CIRCLE

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HIGHLIGHT

Highlight is iPhone only, and the mobile app hooks up with your Facebook and notifies you when you are near a friend, or a friend of a friend, or another Highlight user with similar interests. You can view this personâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Highlight profile, and if youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re intrigued, you can message this person and perhaps make a new friend or connection. highlig.ht

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GLANCEE

Glancee claims that â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;it wants to make it easy to diszcover the hidden connections around you, and to meet interesting people. Since then Glancee has connected thousands of people, empowering serendipity and pioneering social discoveryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;. Just as a note, Facebook has recently purchased this social media app. glancee.com

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THIS IS MY JAM The basic principle of This is My Jam is to choose a song. Maybe a song that’s been stuck in your head. Personalise it to make it yours, then share it with the world. The tagline is ‘This is your jam, and it’s yours for up to seven days. Change it whenever the mood strikes, but choose wisely. You only have one!’ There is also the potential to follow other people’s music and contribute to an ‘evolving’ radio station made by the people. Good fun for music lovers. thisismyjam.com

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STORIFY Storify states that it ‘helps its users tell stories by curating social media’. Working via it’s website and on other social media platforms such as Facebook and Twitter. This blog/self-curated newspaper of stories by it’s users is an addictive tool that is still in it’s early stages of development but it’s San Francisco based company has experienced early success with the model winning the Startup Accelerator at South by Southwest in 2011. storify.com

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RATE YOUR PLAYER

One for the football (soccer) enthusiasts. This fully featured football forum / online social network is a platform where football fans can come together to discuss all things football. If youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re still not sold, then itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s endorsed by a host of English Premier League footballers. rateyourplayer.com

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VIVA RADIO

Viva Radio claims to offer a unique broadcast medium for music enthusiasts to communicate. Not only can listeners hear continuous internet radio, they can help shift and shape stationâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s environment. By the way if you have ever walked through American Apparel and heard a mix of alternative tunes, this is the source. Turn up the sound and enjoy. viva-radio.com

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TEXTILE INNOVATION

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A Textiles MA graduate of the Royal College of Art, London, Lauren Bowker has a unique approach to textiles that fuses creativity with scientific curiosity. She is inspired by â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Making the invisible, visibleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;. In her recent work (showcased) she uses thermal chromatic dyes to create experimental textiles and installations with beautiful results.

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MISCELLANEOUS

Miscellaneous stocks some of the most beautifully selected products, from stationary to paper to camera straps. If you’re look for that bespoke gift or just something to treat yourself check out the online store today. The store describes its produce and concept as, ‘items you may use on a regular basis. Our products may be ordinary in use or kind, yet they are all exceptional. We put that extra in ordinary, by bringing you only those extraordinary items’. miscellaneous-store.com

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PROGRESSIVE EXPANSION 67

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CEO OF TSHIRT STORE JOHAN GRAFFNER SIT’S DOWN EXCLUSIVELY WITH PINWHEEL MAGAZINE FOR A DISCUSSION REGARDING HIS STORE’S CONCEPT, SUCCESSES IN SCANDINAVIA AND PROGRESSIVE ADVANCES TO NEW INTERNATIONAL RETAIL MARKETS.

as a communicator of cultural and style awareness is increasing. It’s interesting what’s happening on the youth trend market now as the trend cycle has been speeding out of control due to the global multiple chains focus on ‘speed to market’. I guess that this leads to an increased focus on ‘Style’ rather than ‘trend’.

What were the foundations behind the creation of TSHIRT STORE? In regards to your initial business plan and potential gaps in an already competitive market?

A combination of originality and commercial flavour. People like things that they can relate to, so we can’t only print obscure and arty designs.

zThere were no good retail concepts for T-shirts around when TSHIRT STORE founder Eric Hammel started the first store. Considering the huge market for T-shirts, this is quite strange. We love T-shirts and since we already where friends with so many great graphical designers and creative people, it was easy for us to develop the collections through collaborations. As we’ve grown and opened more stores, we have focused on making our production as sustainable as possible. Our Cotton T-shirts are now GOTS and Fair Trade Certified. What was your first big breakthrough? The success of our Stockholm store and the fact that we’ve successfully franchised the concept internationally. What role does fashion play in society today? Fashion is one of the driving forces of globalization and its importance as a communicator of wealth is decreasing in the western world whilst its importance

Where did you draw your inspirations from? Youth cultures and progressive retailers from the major cities of the world. What makes a good TSHIRT Store ‘Artist’?

With Sweden’s undoubted success on the international

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high street in fashion and retail, what do you think makes you and other stores thrive on this global stage? The Swedish retail concepts provide a high level of fashion and value for money. TSHIRT STORE is very different since we produce our designs in smaller runs and have a focus on sustainable consumption. I think that plays a big part in our success, as more people demand unique garments and high value for money. Tell us, are there any plans for more store openings / brand expansion? I believe you have plans for expansion into Japan / Asia? We have a franchise store in Shanghai and there will be further stores in China this year. In the end of April we’re opening a store in Harajuku, Tokyo. It’s owned and run by Michimasa Koike who is a great fashion entrepreneur in Japan. He has also established Vice Magazine and American Apparel in Japan. Do you forecast that Asian audiences such as Japan and China are where the focus should be firmly targeted, with emerging economies and rising investments? Or do you believe that Europe specifically, still has a big part to play in future business and sustainable growth? We want to establish TSHIRT STORE together with dedicated franchise partners in all major cities of the world. So far there has been a lot of interest from Asia, they seem very keen on investing in progressive fashion retail concepts. However, we have a few stores planned in Europe this year as well. What’s your view for online retail with it being increasingly globalised? Yes, it’s definitely becoming more globalised but there will always be room for new niche concepts on-

line. It’s a bit tricky and costly to get sufficient traffic on a new web-shop today. This acts as a strong ‘barrier to entry’.

What is the future of TSHIRT Store in regards to its audiences, its products and it’s international standing? We will keep our focus on developing products for city people in the age 16-35 years. We’re adding new product lines as long as we feel that they offer something new to the market, are relevant for our customers and are sustainable. Our latest line in a range of accessories for iPhone 4s and laptop sleeves under our inhouse brand ‘DEDICATED’. DEDICATED now has global distribution and can be found in stores such as Harrods, John Lewis, Urban Outfitters, Fnac as well as chain stores in Japan and China. Not bad considering that the label only has existed for about 6 months! What is a normal day’s routine for the CEO of TSHIRT Store? I’m basically glued to my computer most of the day. I try to avoid any meetings which are not 100% necessary and seldom have more than 2 meetings a day. I mainly focus on new and existing franchisees, production and new store locations so naturally that involves a lot of travelling. I used to work quite long hours, but now I probably average about 10 hours a day. This is made possible by having really dependable and talented partners and staff. What technology do you most rely on? We rely heavily on the internet as well as on our business and POS (Point of Sales) system. The business system enables us to make better design selection and buying decisions for example.

IT’ HA S TR PP IN TR EN EN TER SP EN D M ING ES AR O TIN DU EE D D K N G C CH E IN Y E M AI TO T G O CLE T N THE W H O LE ARK NS HE U W YO AT ’S CU AD ET FO GL T O HA U A S TH ‘TR S S TO ’. I CUS OB F C S T A B H EN ON A GUE ON L M ON EE E D’ ‘ST N T N U . YL INC SS ‘SP LT ROL I E T E’ P H R RA EA AT ED LE T TH SE T O ER D HIS F TH OAN

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KH+

How about an exhibition powered by your smartphone? Information about an exhibition and its designers will be available through a website and smart phone app, that will enable pass-byers to scan the OCR code on the windows and receive information directly onto their smartphones. Artist and showcased objects will be connected to the social media like twitter and Facebook, so that everyone can post and tweet their favourite design. http://www.khplus.eu/ (Sweden)

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LOWLINE NYC What’s the answer to New York’s sprawling, bustling, rising cityscape? Normally a source of frustration by the locals and those in daily commute to the ‘city that never sleeps’. The answer to the lack of space has long been to build high upwards, but the city renowned for its skyscrapers is now looking to exploit its underground spaces to exciting affect.

‘The Delancey Underground project aims to convert an unused trolley terminal beneath Delancey Street into an extraordinary subterranean public park– nicknamed the “LowLine.” Inspired by the amazing impact of the High Line, local businesses, residents, community leaders, and political stakeholders alike have voiced considerable enthusiasm for the idea’. ‘The project represents cutting edge design and a new generation of gr0een technology. It is at the heart of a broader global discussion about the potential of remnant urban infrastructure, and the need for cities to re-invent the meaning of space– above and below ground. The “LowLine” is essentially part of the next phase in urban design, in which human scale and increasing resource scarcity force us to imagine smarter, more creative use of public spaces.’ ‘The ingenious technology at work in this project comes from James Ramsey of Raad Studio. Using a fresh approach to solar technology – implementing innovative fibre optics to reflect light underground, saving electricity and reducing carbon emissions, and generating the Photos by Raad Studio

If da you t Yo e w th rk with ish @ e p pro th to Lo ro je is kee wL jec ct exc p ine t t it u N on hen ing p-to YC T N . wit fol ew te low r at

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Photos by Raad Studio

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Photos by Raad Studio capacity for plants, trees, and grasses to thrive indoors. The Solar collectors placed at street level collect sunlight throughout the day, and that light is then reflected below ground. While the light emitted below ground does not emit the ultraviolet rays harmful to skin, it does distribute the light wavelengths supporting photosynthesis thus enabling plants, trees, and grasses to grow’. delanceyunderground.org (The Delancey Project)

The project has fully tapped into the ‘power of the people’ by initiating a Kickstarter fundraising campaign. This increasingly popular method of raising funds for projects and technically giving away ‘shares’ in one’s project / business is an innovative and communal way of press and satisfaction upon a successful

campaign, whilst also ‘testing the water’ to see if there is a need or want for whatever is being put up for campaign. Ultimately 3,300 Kickstarter backers and a total of $155,186 pledged, the Delancey Project will build a small-scale model of the technological approach for public demonstration in an abandoned warehouse in the quite appropriate Delancey Street. ‘This ‘mini Lowline park’ is meant to help the community envision how the technology would function and the stunning aesthetic elements of its installation’. delanceyunderground.org (The Delancey Project)

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PINWHEEL SUMMER 2012