BPD REFORM EFFORTS CANNOT FALL SHORT ANY LONGER

more stark when considering the demographic breakdown of Binghamton, which is about 13 percent Black compared to about 70 percent white.

Police reform in Broome County has been minimal to nonexistent, despite the efforts of local community members and organizations. In fall 2020, community members and Binghamton University students voiced their concerns about police reform in a forum hosted by Divestment, Accountability and Reinvestment in Our Community (DAROC). In response to New York State Gov. Andrew Cuomo’s Executive Order No. 203 — which mandated localities submit a police reform plan by April

1, 2021 to remain eligible for state funding — a general and non-substantive reform plan was prompted by the City of Binghamton. Despite protests from local and student organizers, and community activist organizations like Justice and Unity for the Southern Tier (JUST), Citizen Action and Truth Pharm, the city’s plan was passed.

Around the same time as these demands for reform, BPD received $481,285 from the U.S. Department of Justice Community Oriented Policing Services (COPS) and the New York State Division of Criminal Justice Services (DCJS), illustrating the disconnect between the community and the police. As a county with one of the highest incarceration rates in New York state, there are clearly issues within Broome County’s criminal legal system.

The incident that occurred on Jan. 1 is a shocking and painful reminder of the urgency of police reform in Broome County and in the United States, but it also specifically highlights the importance of de-escalation training. BPD has claimed that Waddell was arrested and charged with disorderly conduct after his involvement in a multiperson fight, which is when the officer appeared to kneel on his neck. The police should subdue violence, not escalate it. Studies have found that deescalation training can reduce injuries among civilians and law enforcement officers. As of 2021, 29 states, including New York, required de-escalation training for police officers. However, the culture of police departments is insular, and training and standards likely vary across departments. Police officers across districts must be held to strict standards of conduct and treat community members humanely. We are shocked and saddened by scenes that unfolded on Jan. 1, and urgently await police accountability and reform.

The recent “dupe” trend, in which TikTok users compare highend products to similar drugstore products, has taken over the platform. Just about everything has been “duped” — basic white socks, perfumes and shoes. But by far, the most enduring product category that’s been “duped” is makeup. Influencers have “duped” every high-end cult classic, such as Clinique’s Black Honey Almost Lipstick, which was “duped” by the e.l.f. Hydrating Core Lip Shine in Ecstatic and Charlotte Tilbury’s Beauty Light Wand by the Revolution Pro Hydra Bright Cream Blush.

Buying “dupes” offers a low-cost way for makeup enthusiasts to build the ideal face without overspending. Even companies dedicated to informing consumers of makeup “dupes,” like Brandefy, have folded. But the “dupe” trend also offers two troubling conclusions — that makeup is largely the same across price points and that even cheap makeup contributes to global overconsumption.

Unlike designer bags or clothing, which may have idiosyncratic patterns — like Coach’s interlocking letter C’s — a brand of makeup is almost impossible to discern once the product is applied. This is part of the reason why “dupes” have become so popular — anecdotal side-by-side comparisons of cheap and expensive products yield few noticeable differences apart from application.

Writer Kelly Dougher noted that her cheaper eyeshadow was less pigmented than her more expensive palette, requiring more layers to achieve the same effect. But products at every price point struggle with deficiencies, and, as Dougher concludes at the end of her makeup comparison, “In the end, it mostly comes down to personal preferences and priorities.”

The futility of buying a higher-end product when there are available “dupes” is even more obvious when considering base products, such as primer, foundation, concealer and setting powder. These products are intended to match a person’s skin tone, so makeup companies do not have much flexibility in introducing new shades, unlike the process of creating new blush or eyeshadow shades. However, for those who require darker foundation shades, splurging on products from high-end brands like Fenty Beauty might be necessary if the shade range at drugstores is not inclusive.

Moreover, makeup is not as durable as clothing or accessories. While luxury handbags can be expected to be made of better material than a cheaper handbag, both handbags will largely function the same way. With makeup, much of it depends on the formulation of the product and the user’s unique skin and aesthetic concerns. For an acneprone user, a comedogenic high-end foundation will be difficult to use, while a noncomedogenic drugstore foundation will be more ideal. Measurements for makeup are also similar industry-wide, minimizing variations in a product’s lifespan. Foundations, for instance, are typically one fluid ounce — both the Maybelline drugstore foundation Fit Me Matte and Poreless and the higher-end Makeup By Mario SurrealSkin Liquid Foundation are one fluid ounce.

The “dupe” trend, along with questioning the efficacy of higher-end makeup products, has also underscored the markup of makeup products.

According to Money Talks News, cosmetics are subject to an average markup of 78 percent — “… thanks to anti-aging claims and celebrity-endorsed marketing, shoppers have been breaking the bank to look younger and more beautiful for years.” Meg Pryde, founder of Brandefy, claims that when she was a graduate student, she discovered that “identical formulations would often be priced up under another brand name and updated packaging.” Likewise, the flood of articles and social media posts advertising makeup that is “worth the splurge” implies that luxury makeup is not worth the price in general, so consumers must be economical with their purchases.

Despite the economic benefits, the “dupe” trend does not exclude its benefactors from contributing to the overconsumption of makeup. Buying “dupes” may be beneficial on an individual level, but both “dupes” and higher-end products are involved in the beauty industry’s waste.

Writer Hasina Khatib claims that “The accelerated consumption cycle can lead many to overlook the virtues and suitability of individual items in the race toward amassing a [sizable] volume of products … an exhaustive survey by beauty e-tailer SkinStore revealed that women use an average of 16 products simply before leaving the house in the morning …” The overconsumption of cosmetics is particularly evident when considering makeup users who have multiple tubes of foundation in the same color, or racks of blush in 30 different shades — impossible to use all at once. Arnaud Plas, CEO of the hair care company Prose, claims that 20 to 40 percent of beauty products are thrown away. Makeup hauls — whether cheap or luxury — substantially contribute to global waste. According to the Plastic Pollution Coalition, much of the beauty industry’s waste feeds into the already egregious overproduction and under-recycling of plastic worldwide, producing more than 120 billion units of packaging globally each year.

The difficulty of recycling makeup packaging also contributes to the plastic problem. Stephen Clarke, the head of communications at the recycling company Terracycle, notes that “small containers are hard to clean, multi-compositional packages need separating at the material level, [colored] and opaque plastics have low demand in the recyclables market, and the small size of the caps, pots, wands and trays of makeup and skin care fall through the cracks at recycling facilities.”

Advocates Millie Kendall and Ashley Piper suggest two main ways to cut down on overconsumption. The first is that beauty brands should reconsider the rapid pace of their product releases, and the second is that consumers should just shop less. Brands that focus on “dupes,” such as e.l.f., released 128 new products in 2017, which is an increase of 40 percent from 2016. The new products were notably similar to the trendiest products at the time. A slower production cycle with less focus on releasing ephemerally popular products would decrease waste. From a buyer’s perspective, consumers should consciously consider their needs rather than joining the trend cycle. Just as fast fashion is unsustainable because consumers cannot wear all the clothing they own, “fast beauty” is unsustainable because consumers cannot wear all the makeup products they have. And while drugstore alternatives to more expensive makeup can seem like a panacea for overspending, they also act as a slippery slope into overconsumption. The solution to fast beauty must come from both the producers and the consumers.

Buying makeup shouldn’t feel like a splurge or a sink, nor should it feel like more is better. There is a way to more consciously consume makeup, and it starts with becoming invulnerable to the trend cycle — whether it’s an echo chamber promoting “dupes” or an influencer urging their audience to buy the trendiest highend product. We should become more content with the most effective, simplest solutions.

Kathryn Lee is a sophomore doublemajoring in English and economics.

University Student’s Horoscopes

by Kyla Dowdy

What will your February look like?

Aries

Career and Finance: You will make great profits this month, as long as you don’t spend too many dining dollars. Keep your head in the game, it is a great time for you to start new projects and meet your goals, this month.

Health: Health is looking good, maybe take a walk along the snowy nature preserve for exercise!

Relationships: Keep in touch with your family this month, communication may be difficult, and there may be a chance of misunderstanding. It’s a good time to talk to someone new in one of your classes, you never know what could happen.

Taurus

Career and Finance: Careerwise, there will be some gains.

Health: Gym-wise, there will also be some gains. Remember to eat healthy, though.

Relationships: You and your fam are feeling the love this month, but this might make you emotional being that you’re away from home. Therefore, don’t be mean to them because you’re stressed.

Gemini Career and Finance: Don’t stop until you achieve your goals, this month. But also don’t rush it. You can’t rush success.

Health: You should feel energetic this month, just don’t let that energy become unnecessary stress.

Relationships: Think before you speak, you might be a little too blunt this month if you don’t. Romance is looking good this month, keep an eye out for February 14th.

Cancer

Career and Finance: Don’t stop until you achieve your goals, this month. But also don’t rush it. You can’t rush success.

Health: You should feel energetic this month, just don’t let that energy become unnecessary stress.

Relationships: Think before you speak, you might be a little too blunt this month if you don’t. Romance is looking good this month, keep an eye out for February 14th.

Leo Career and Finance: Keep a positive attitude, this will assist you in achieving your goals. Group work this month will be smooth sailing, so don’t fret over it.

Health: The Binghamton cold may get to you.

Relationships: Disagreements may arise between you and your friends/partner. You may feel lonely this month, but know that it’s not just you, it’s a rough month for all the signs.

Virgo Career and Finance: You will be the center of attention this month, but don’t let the fame get to you.

Health: Not letting the Binghamton snow get to you this month is important, you need to take care of your body this month. Don’t forget to build snowmen!

Relationships: Relationships are going well with family members, but your love life may be messed with by an old flame.

Libra Career and Finance: You may be overreacting in the workplace, be easy on your colleagues. Don’t be opposed to change.

Health: Your body is a temple this month. Don’t overwork yourself, maybe try meditation.

Relationships: You are extremely emotional this month, don’t let this affect your current relationships. Stay calm, and stay quiet. Trust.

Scorpio Career and Finance: The first half of the month will be favorable for you. Good opportunities will come your way, don’t be afraid to take these chances. Accept as many jobs as you can.

Health: You may be anxious this month. Get into a good routine with yoga and meditation.

Relationships: Relationships will be like a rollercoaster this month. Don’t wait on others, wait on yourself. Date yourself, you deserve it.

Sagittarius

Career and Finance: Mental anxieties this month, but with it, comes resilience and hard work. This hard work will come with a reward.

Health: Focus on your mental health, and focus on the positive aspects of your life. This will be important.

Relationships: Don’t forget to communicate with the people you love because there may be misunderstandings with family.

But, good news, you may meet your soulmate this month. Keep your eyes open, Bearcat.

Capricorn

Career and Finance: This might be a tough month for you, and you may feel like you’re not enough. Don’t give up, good things will come eventually. You are smart, use that gift wisely.

Health: Balance is key, listen to your body and give it what it needs. Be intuitive.

Relationships: Give space in your relationships. This month is for you to recharge who you are. This is not a good month for you for romance, because you need to learn to love yourself first.

Aquarius

Career and Finance: You are so hardworking, but this month has some important lessons for you. Be patient, and flow with the change that comes your way.

Health: Continuous exercise is important. Try something new, like skiing!

Relationships: Keep your eyes out for the ones you love, it is important to be there for them this month. Be patient with them, and with yourself.

Pisces

Career and Finance: Your aggression is elevated this month. Don’t argue with the people that are supposed to be your teammates. Stay as positive as you can with these people. Health: Date yourself, and continue to exercise. This is an important focus this month.

Relationships: Think before you speak. Don’t lure people into something that you’re not ready for. You need to take a step back and realize how you have been treating your loved ones, or you can never move on.