PLACE2GO travel magazine 53 ENGLISH EDITION

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Issue 53

English edition

MAIN TOPIC

HOTELS & VILLAS

Price 5 €

Summer 2020

Summer

2020 Stay &Play

Lika

Zagorje

Slavonia & Podunavlje

by BORIS RUŽIĆ

#100% Croatia! ISLAND CAMPS ON THE ADRIATIC

BRAČ

Velebit ZAGREB ● KRKA ● MARIJA BISTRICA ● ISTRIA

9 772459 591002

00720

CULTURAL ROUTES ● ZAGREB RING




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114 66 EDITOR'S LETTER

Every ending is a new beginning All good things come to an end. But that doesn’t mean that after something ends a new beginning won’t take us on a new adventure. You never know it could be better than before. I have never accepted anything worse because I firmly believe that we can all influence many things in our own personal microsphere. I know you have all had enough of the corona virus, home isolation, restrictions and “the new normal”. We all want to go back to 6 months ago when everything was so wonderful and normal(even though we weren’t aware of it then). Life goes on and regardless of the challenges ahead of us wehave to make the best of the situation. We have to be optimists. I can say for myself that I am an incorrigible optimist. I often lift my colleagues spirits when morale is low. Needless tosay there has been a lot of that going on lately. Along with all the trouble the earthquake caused ( we had to renovate the entire office space, which I optimistically calledteam building), problems in tourism (which obviously reflectedour business), the inability to travel and adjusting topics to the new situation (which turned out to be great because we got to learn more about Croatia). We were able to do the most important thing and that is stay here, together for one another, all 7 of us. And we all know that the number 7 has proven to be lucky throughout history. So good luckto us! Damjana Domanovac Editor–in-Chief 4

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Content

HOT SPOT 8 En route for Summer

INTERVIEW 17 Kristjan Staničić

STAY&PLAY 12 Summer of 2020

LET US TAKE YOU TO 28 Zagorje 40 Slavonia & Podunavlje 88 Green heart of Lika

MAIN TOPIC 66 Hotels and villas by Boris Ružić

TOP TEN 102 Camps on the Adriatic

WEEKEND TRIPS 22 Zagreb ring 36 Marija Bistrica 94 Velebit 98 Krka

PRESENTING 18 Summer in Zagreb 52 Cultural routes of the European Council 60 Undiscovered Istria 122 Earthquake – New beginnings CROATIAN ISLANDS 114 Brač

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Editorial Staff

ROBERTO RADIĆ Marketing Manager I especially enjoyed going to places which are close to where we go on vacation or where we live. Most of those placesare around a 2 hour drive from Zagreb.I advise you to study the destinations in this edition and enjoy in the beauties of Croatia.I will see you all again in the fall, with new stories, new destinations,and of course with new experiences.

COVER PAGE

Galesnjak Island ©Getty images pro Design & Layout: Dragon Dizajn d.o.o.

Issue No. 53, year XV, summer / autumn 2020 info@place2go.hr | www. place2go.hr PUBLISHER Place2go d.o.o., Zagreb OFFICE ADDRESS Kosirnikova 17, 10 000 Zagreb tel.: 01/ 4618 898, 01/ 4618 899, faks: 01/ 4572 397

PUBLISHER/EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Damjana Domanovac | damjana@place2go.hr

DEPUTY EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Jadranka Apostolov | jadri@place2go.hr

NEW MEDIA EDITOR

JADRANKA APOSTOLOV Deputy Editor My travels first began by exploring Croatia, and then Europe. After that I spent most of my time exploring exotic countries. The closer destinations I always left for someother time. Well it seems thatthe other time is here. So, I will dedicate this summer to exploring Croatia. The mountains, forests are calling me. I can’t wait!

Matej Čepl | matej@place2go.hr

PHOTO EDITOR Tomislav Serdar | tomislav@place2go.hr

GRAPHIC Anamarija Perić | anamarija@place2go.hr

GRAPHIC DESIGN AND PHOTO EDITING PLACE2DESIGN d.o.o. | info@place2design.com Dragon Dizajn d.o.o. | info@dragondizajn.hr

ANAMARIJA PERIĆ Graphic designer while awaiting this years encounter with ourbeautiful coast, I reminise about carefree summers – just the two of us walking, adventure,going out at night and enjoying the gastronomy…this summer this will be replaced withrunning after a one year old little girl, bathing in theshallow end and building sand castles…more challenges await me, as well as enjoyment ona different level. I can’t wait!

TECHNICAL SUPPORT www.storyeditor.com.hr

PROOFREADING Mira Pavlica Stojčević

MARKETING DIRECTOR Roberto Radić | roberto@place2go.hr tel.: 01/ 4618 190

SUBSCRIPTION pretplata@place2go.hr tel.: 01/ 4618 898, faks: 01/ 4572 397 PRINT GZH | www.gzh.hr DISTRIBUTION Tisak d.d.

PREVIOUS ISSUE ORDERING www.place2go.hr Copying the text partially or in full, is permitted only with the consent of the editors or authors of the test. Any type of mechanical, optical or electronic duplication is prohibited. The name PLACE2GO is protected. All rights reserved. The magazine doesn't return any of the manuscripts and photoliths. The magazine is sold at newsstands in Croatia (the Croatian edition), Serbia and Macedonia (the Serbian edition), Slovenia (the Slovenian edition), France, the Netherlands, Switzerland and the French Overseas Territories, Luxembourg, Morocco and Canada (French edition) or by subscription. The editorial office is not responsible for the content in the advertisements and on the promo pages. This6 magazine published four times a year. PLACE 2isGO

MATEJ ČEPL New media editor This year is specific in so many ways. While last year I spent swimming in the Ligurian Sea in neighbouring Italy,this year I won’t go further than our Adriatic and the island of Korčula where I have been going to for the past 30 years. I plan on learning more about Lika a placeI would only pass through. Because wewill be spending our holidays exclusively in Croatia, we will learn more about our country!

TOMISLAV SERDAR Director of photography This year took us back to a new dimension, one that we had almost forgotten. A dimension where we feel ourselves, the peoplearound us, our needs and wants, aspirations, everythingthat we had neglected in our race for material things. Spiritualness prevailed during quarantine, leaving us moretime for everything that we love.


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O F F E R

BRAČ – THE ISLAND OF CULTURE AND ADVENTURE If you are looking for a balance between culture andadventure, and you love dalmatian cuisine, great wine(Plavac and Pošip), swimming and sunbathing, and need a place to get away from your daily challenges and problems, theisland of Brač is the place for you. It has the best beaches and hidden coves. You can gosunbathing by the pool of a rural villa within the island,walk on the new „okolobračkom“ (around Brač) path Via Brattia orhike to the top of Vid’s peak, surrounded with the beauty of Brač stone and the finest olive oil. Sounds like a greatchoice for this summer.

CROATIA A IRLINES Croatia Airlines, is our national airline company and member of the Star Alliance association.During the summer it increases the number of flights from Zagreb to other European destinations in accordance with the epidemiological measures and traveling conditions within Europe. You can travel from Zagreb to Amsterdan, Athens, Bruxelles, Copenhagen, Dublin, Frankfurt, London, München, Paris, Rome, Sarajevo, Skoplje, Vienna and Zürich. You can fly with Croatia Airlines directly from Split to Berlin, Copenhagen, Düsseldorf, Frankfurt, London, Lyon, München, Paris,Rome, Zürich, Zagreb, Vienna and Osijek. Thissummer season you can fly directly from Dubrovnik to Athens,Düsseldorf, Frankfurt, München, Paris,Rome, Zürich, Zagreb and Osijek. You can also get tickets for certain oneway flights within Croatia for only 350 HRK.Get more information on our website www.croatiaairlines.hr or on m.croatiaairlines.hr tel. +385 1 6676 555/072 500 505.

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this summer BBQ DINNER AT BLUESUN HOTEL KAJ This summer, all you have to do is gather your gang…leave the rest to us! Join us every Friday at our Bbq dinners on the terrace of the Bluesun hotel Kaj in Marija Bistrica from 7 p.m.! Enjoy music, delicious food which will be prepared for you by the best chefs Zagorje has to offer. Cool off with our craft beer – „Devetka“ (niner). Our local butcher Ravlić will supply the meat! This summer, sit back and relax while we grill, and you chill! For reservations or more information contact us +385 49 326 600. www.hotelkaj.hr

FORTUNA TOURS – TOUR OF EASTERN HERZEGOVINA FROM AN ICON TO BOGUMILA – Travel to easternHerzegovina and find out more about the rich history of that region. In the little town of Blagaj, twelve kilometers away from Mostar, under the steep rocks lies one of the most beautiful river springs in Europe. You can also find an old dervish monastery, an attractivehistorical place dating back to the end of the 15th or the beginning of the 16th century. On your way to Stolac stop and rest in Žitomislići, where a 15th century orthodox cathedral is located. You will see the most beautiful necropolis of tombstones in Stolac – as well as other numerous archaelogical remains from the paleolithic era and from the 3rd century B.C. Near Trebinja you can visit the Vjetrenica cave, one of the biggest karst caves in Europe. It is 6100 meters long and famous for its endemic species.The last stop of this trip will be the center of eastern Herzegovina – the city of Trebinje – famous for the Arslanagić bridge from the Turkish era as well as many other interesting things worth seeing. www.fortuna.ba



A SUMMER TO REMEMBER… ON THE BANKS OF THE DANUBE

SKYWALK IN NATURE PARK BIOKOVO

Biokovo Nature Park is a public institution that is conducting a project called“Novi Adrion – Promoting sustainableuse of natural heritage NP Biokovo“, financed from the European Regional Development Fund, under the Operational ProgramCompetitiveness and Cohesion 2014–2020, with partnersMakarska Development Agency MARA andThe Croatian Mountain Rescue Service – HGSS. The most impressive and complex part of the Novi Adrion project is most certainly the construction of the viewpoint in the shape of a horseshoe above the cliff, with a glass surface for walking, named after the heavenly walkway – Skywalk. Construction of the Skywalk is a unique example of increasing the attractiveness of this natural location due to its „extreme components“, which leads to a larger number of visitors. The walkway is located on the southwestern part of NaturePark Biokovo, on the 13th kilometer of the Biokovo road, right by the information center, on 1228 meters above sea level. Due to its specific weather conditions constructionof the walkway was often delayed. The viewpoint can take up to 50 visitors who arrive to Ravna vlaška and Skywalkvia the Biokovo road, which leads to the main entrance of NP Biokovo on state road D512 (Makarska – Vrgorac), towards the highest peak,Saint George. The park is officially open for tourfrom April to November, and for security reasons visitation is not allowed during the winter months, also due to the winter road conditions. pp-biokovo.hr

Swimming in the river hits the spot for all seeking a place to cool off from the summer heat. This summer why wouldn’t you visit Syrmia or Slavonia and enjoy one of Danube’s numerous beaches. Those wanting to find a quiet place will surely be able to on the banks from Vukovar to Ilok. You must stop by Ada, one of the most popular beaches in continental Croatia. This island is a popular spot for the citizens of Vukovar only a short boat ride away from the center. Sandy beaches, heavy shade, and the beautiful Danube with white sandbars going as far as to half the river… Who doesn’t have the Danube, can settle for the sea, is what they say in eastern Croatia. www.slavonia.travel

this summer HOTEL ESPLANADE CELEBRATES ITS 95TH BIRTHDAY Zagreb’s hotel Esplanade was built with the goal of offering accomodation to passengers of the famous Orient Express. The official opening was held on April 22nd, 1925. 200 guests along with the then mayor Heinzel attended. The hotel was already back then very luxurious, sophisticated, and equipped with the most modern technology. To celebrate its 95th anniversary Hotel Esplanade prepared for its guests and fellow citizens a birthday special: two portions of Esplanade štrukle (baked pastry filled with cheese) in Le Bistro – 95 kn; Orient Express afternoon tea for two in the Esplanade Bar or on the Oleander terrace – 95 kn; and for the citizen’s of Zagreb a night for two in the Esplanade with breakfast at Zinfandel’s for 95 EUR. www.esplanade.hr

CLOSE TO THE CITY, CLOSE TO THE HEART The Zagreb Tourist Board and the Zagreb Country Tourist Board created a special campaign dedicated to Zagreb and its surroundings, under the slogan “Around Zagreb”. This is the first time that these two tourist boards partnered together to promote the capital city and Zagreb’s green ring, through this unique campaign. You can find more information about this campaign on the website www.aroundzagreb.hr 10

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stay&play

Travelling around the world I realized that Croatia truly is beautiful. So small, yet full of diversity. Wherever you turn – breathtaking,fascinating and interesting. The choicesare endless, and this summer is theideal time to explore and enjoy in it. prepared by: JADRANKA APOSTOLOV

wee ge away Soon Zagreb will be getting another “sweet” spot for hanging out with the finest desserts. The name Pierre Sweet Escape which was the owner Iva’s idea says it all. Her desserts are a real piece of art. Iva believes her product must have “character” anduniqueness. She prepares her sweets without any additives, conservatives, and is specializing in making gluten free treats too. Find out more about Iva and her sweet story www.pierre.hr. © Henrike Schunck

© Chris Sanchez

Hidden Gem of Istria Kempinski Hotel Adriatic is a five-star luxurious hotel and golf resort. It is located on the northwestern coast of Istria where the Adriatic mergeswith vineyards and olive groves. Known for its hidden location in nature, close to Umag and Savudrija. This high- class accommodation includes 186luxurious rooms and apartments, spacious balconies or terraces, with viewsof the Istrian landscape and the Adriatic Sea. It includes private beaches,a 3000 m² relaxing spa center, conference center for business and socialevents, along with an innovative kitchen and an exceptional gastronomic offer in two top-notch restaurants, turning everyone’s holiday or business trip into an unforgettable experience of Istria and the Mediterranean.12www.kempinski.com/hr/istria/hotel-adriatic PLACE 2 GO

© Neven Jurjak aka Merlo De Graia


© Maja Danica

Stay&Play

This summer Ikador Luxury Boutique Hotel & Spa, can brag about yetanother exclusive partnership, this time with the renowned Frenchchampagne house Moët & Chandon. This cooperation is a natural continuation of the Ikador concept which creates unique experiences for their guests and visitors. Only a few locations in the world have become members of this exclusive club which says a lot about the high standards hotel Ikador and the Nobilion restaurant fulfilled. www.ikador.com

© Maja Danica

and n rivi ege b

E Ficlek restaurant located onPod Zidom street, radiates the spirit of old Zagreb with a modern touch. Its long interior, no walls or hidden corners, allows guests and the Ficlek team to communicate through an open kitchen and a long central bar. The interior is decorated with details that originate from vintage shops and Zagreb homes, reflecting the connection of tradition Ficlek offers its guests.Its spacious terrace has a view of the cathedral,one of Zagreb’s well-known symbols. This is the ideal place to grab a bite to eatwhile enjoying a drink, try an authentic mealfrom Zagreb made with fresh ingredients fromthe market Dolac. Stop by after work withcolleagues for a drink or go out to dinner with friends. www. facebook.com/GostionicaFiclek

Valuable knowledge gained by building a modern apartment rental company,understanding the wishes of each guests, is written in the foundations of Irundo Holiday ApartmentRentals. The brand is names after a swallow(lat. hirundo). A migratory bird that always returns to its nest, because it believes in Irundo they believe in the warmth of home. Their apartments are located in the heart ofthe city, which gives the guests an additional feeling of security and comfort. irundo.com

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e i e r a es Pizzeria Basta, opened its third location, after Zagreb and Split now you can find them by Jarun lake in Zagreb, that is in the spot of the legendary pizzeria Edo. The atmosphere is modern but at the sametime warm, which gives the guests a relaxing ambience. The secret to a delicious pizza comes from the south of Italy where it is madeusing traditional Neapolitane recipes. Besides pizzas, Basta GourmetBar is praised for its Neapolitane sandwiches, the so called pagnutellas, salads and platters. Here guests can relax on a terrace surrounded in greenery,listening to Italian music and enjoying the taste of original Neapolitane pizza. www.basta.bar

r for o r do s Paspalace, boutique hotel for dogs was opened with the wish to offer the city of Zagreb an adequate,professional and completely different service. A place where your pet will enjoy a luxurious placeto relax and play, leaving the owner at peace and carefree. The little house apartments represent a small doggy city. It has an inner and outer area to hang-out, entertainment and toys, as well as a salon spa zone for relaxing and grooming. We offer virtual visits to your pet at any time. We paid attention to each detail – Why wouldn’t your furry friends also enjoy the luxury of staying in a 5-star hotel? www.facebook.com/PaspalaceDogHotel 14

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Rustic stone villa, surrounded by olive groves and other Mediterranean plants, A real luxury oasis of peace. The spacious ground floor has a charming rustic kitchen, dining room and family room with a fireplace, as well as a huge door leading to a beautiful terrace. Guests can relax and enjoy a wellness & spa area, with a hot tub, sauna, reflexology path and anirreplaceable mini gym. It also has a wine cellar filled with local delights, a small house to relax in with an unusual biodesign pool, a quiet reading area that has a handmade chair made out of olive wood under the shadow of an almond tree to name some unique features of this place. After a dalmatian dinner relax with some wine and a cigar, or play some pool or poker. The villa is also adapted for people with special needs. Welcome and feel at home! ##welcomeandfeellikeMyHome

© G.I.Tepes © G.I.Tepes

© G.I.Tepes © G.I.Tepes

Hote

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ati a

Hotel Paris is a newly renovated modern facility, located in the center of Opatija, only a few steps away from the famous Angiolina park, near the sea and the popular Lungomare walkway, that turns a regular stroll into a special experience. It is situated near pebble beaches and beach paths, where guests can explore many cultural attractions. The hotel has 90 comfortable and elegant rooms, a rich gastronomic offer in its à la carte restaurant “Butter & Salt”, and a spa oasis. When night falls you can try your luck in the hotel casino. hotel-paris.hr

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Villa & Jardin is a newly renovated luxurious villa with a pool located in the village Vrh on the island of Krk. This micro location ensures guests a quiet and completely relaxing environment. It is concepted to fulfill all the needs of today’s hedonist traveler. Inside the villa guests have a choice of different areas to relax, play sports or show off their culinary skills. The view of the Velebit mountain and the fresh breeze in the evening hit the spot even on the hottest of days. The villa is a 10-minute drive away from the beautiful beaches and cultural attractions of the city of Krka. The island also has a hiking route offering numerous kilometers of exploring many of its natural beauties and local gastro locations. www.villa-jardin.eu 15

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1. Sandals MANGO, shop.mango.com 2. Dress H&M Conscious Exclusive, www.hm.com 3. Mini bag HAVAIANAS, www.havaianas.com 4. NOTES OF ZAGREB Misty Morning Body Mist, notesofzagreb.com 5. Flip-flops HAVAIANAS, www.havaianas.com 6. NIVEA Black & White Invisible Ultimate Impact deodorant, roll-on and spray, www.nivea.com 7. Swimsuit ACCESSORIZE, uk.accessorize.com 8. Cross-body bag Marc O’Polo, www.marc-o-polo.com 9. NEBO, jacket Isola, shop.nebo.hr 10. DIOR CAPTURE TOTALE C.E.L.L. Energy line of age-defying products consists of Serum-Lotion, Gentle Cleanser, Super Potent Serum and Firming & Wrinkle Correcting Cream 11. Jumpsuit MANGO, shop.mango.com 12. Shorts H&M Conscious Exclusive, www.hm.com 13. Shirt MOHITO, www.mohito.com 14. Collection NEBO, dress Akio, shop.nebo.hr 15. AFRODITA COSMETICS ART of TANNING Hello, Summer Self-tanning Lotion and Tanning Body Marmelade for an intense, golden tan, 100 % natural ingredients, sunny mango scent; webshop.afroditacosmetics.com 16. EAU THERMALE AVÈNE PhysioLift Protect Smoothing protective cream SPF 30 helps smooth the appearance of deep wrinkles and firms the skin, boosts the skin’s luminosity, targets dull skin and signs of fatigue, www.eau-thermale-avene.com 17. Slides H&M Conscious Exclusive, www.hm.com 18. Skirt MISS SELFRIDGE, www.missselfridge.com

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KRISTJAN STANIČIĆ: “Tourist traffic will intensify in the months ahead of us” THE CORONA VIRUS PANDEMIC HAS CAUSED CHANGES IN THE GLOBAL TOURISM INDUSTRY.IN YOUR OPINION, WHAT ADVANTAGESDOES CROATIAN TOURISM HAVE IN COMPARISON TO OTHER COUNTRIES?

Yes, the pandemic has brought many changes to the entire tourismindustry. In the next period we will put great emphasis on abiding by thesanitary regulations and other prescribed precautionary measures. In accordance with the changed circumstances we oriented ourselvesmore to hospitality and care for guests, and focused on our neighbours,and the Central European market. Our country has an abundance of beautiful and preserved nature. We have numerous beaches, coves and walkways,over a thousand islands, mountaineering and bike paths, as well as other contents such accommodation facilities and camps which give our gueststhe security they need in these uncertain times. Besides that,we have a favourable epidemiological situation and other conditions that are needed to receive guests. Currently Croatia has around 240 000 guests daily, and we are one of the rare European countries that can brag with such tourist traffic during these circumstances. WHAT IS THE CROATIAN TOURIST BOARD EMPHASIZING ON IN ITS CAMPAIGNS DURING THESE NEW FOUND CIRCUMSTANCES?

We have been in contact the entire time during this pandemic very intensively with different contents and messages. Before launching a promotional campaign, our basic communication channel was through social media. We began with an intensive campaign at the beginning of June on seven key European markets which are close to Croatia by car and have a similar epidemiological situation. The campaign was launched in Germany, Austria, Slovenia, Poland, Czech Republic, Slovakia and Hungary, and we will begin these days with a big promotion in the Netherlands, Belgium, Sweden, Norway, Switzerland, France and Italy as well as one for the local market. Furthermore, in co-operation with our representatives all around the world we will continue to inform all our partners and tourists about the good epidemiological situation in Croatia, which is at this time one of the main pseudo factors for attracting guests. WHAT ARE YOUR EXPECTATIONS FOR THE REST OF THE TOURIST YEAR? According to our calculations, we expect to achieve up to 30 percent of last year’s tourist traffic (last year was a record year). Tourist traffic should intensify in the months ahead of us. We should all work together to finish this year in the best possible way. All of us

local and foreign tourists should behave responsibly and abide by the regulated epidemiological measures. This is why I call in the name of all the participants in Croatian tourism and in my own name for everyone to act responsibly. WHERE ARE YOU GOING ON VACATION AND HOW DO YOU PLAN ON SPENDING IT THIS YEAR? I spend most of my summer vacation on the island of Rab with my family. This is the place where I go “to recharge my batteries” for the upcoming challenges whether they be for work or privately. I especially enjoy relaxing by the sea and fishing in my boat. I hope that I will be able to find some time in my busy schedule to come here with my wife and son Luka and enjoy the beautiful beaches of Rab.


promo

© Marko Mihaljević

© Julien Duval

© Samir Cerić Kovačević

Summer heat has arrived to the capital city of Croatia and along with it many different manifestations which will helpyou refresh and enjoy thebeautiful weather and diversecolours of summer. You will be able to have fun and relax in Zagreb, just as you have the previous years. text: MATEJ ČEPL photographs: THE CITY OF ZAGREB TOURIST BOARD ARCHIVES

THIS PAGE: LEFT: details about the manifestation Okolo; UPPER RIGHT: Cest is d’Best in the park Zrinjevac; BOTTOM: Pop Up Summer Garden on Tuškanac; RIGHT PAGE: CLOCKWISE: Cest is d’Best on Petar Preradović square; Summer on Štros; street musicians; scenes from Zagreb’s Time Machine; Zagreb – a destination for the entire family 18

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Even though this warm summer is special in so many ways, with a small dose of caution you can truly enjoy many events taking place on the streets of Croatia’s capital! Zagreb’s Time Machine will take you back to the past, when many interesting characters lived in and walked the city’s streets. Summer on Štross is a great opportunity to let loose with live music in the Upper town. Strossmayer walkway – right under the Lotrščak Tower – the perfect place for a romantic walk with a beautiful view of the city. Modern art fans can appreciate the ambience of the outdoor Art Park Zagreb, situated in the Ribnjak park, the perfect place to chill with the musical program. If you wind up on the streets of Zagreb because you love music Cest is d’Best will again this year gather diverse and well-known street performers – from musicians, jugglers, performers, to small theatre groups. The streets of the city are especially alive during this street art festival. The Okolo project, consists of 20 locations in the center of the Croatian metropolitan where artists were able to use their own imagination and bring new life to hidden and sometimes invisible corners of Zagreb. It is up to you to discover them and enjoy. It is important to mention that all the events ensure conditions that guarantee each visitor can enjoy the programs safely without any disturbances. A complete list and schedule of all the events can be found on the webpage infozagreb.hr.


© Marko Vrdoljak

Zagreb Card24 98 kn

Zagreb Card72 135 kn

It also includes discounts at more than 55 locations such as museums, galleries, restaurants, shops, and others. From now on, Zagreb Card can be purchased online, at the Visitor Centre on Zagreb`s main square and at Franjo Tuđman Airport.

Photo: Esplanade Zagreb Hotel

Advantages of Zagreb Card: —  Unlimited access to public transportation —Free admission to city attractions

© Sanjin Kaštelan

© Samir Cerić Kovačević

© Davor Rostuhar

© Julien Duval

Free admission to the Zagreb City Museum, the Museum of Arts and Crafts, the Museum of Contemporary Art, the Museum of Broken Relationships, Zagreb 360° – observation deck, and the Zagreb ZOO. For more information, visit our website at www.zagrebcard.com


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Urban romance

1. Sunglasses H&M, www.hm.com 2. Earings MANGO, shop.mango.com 3. Dress & OTHER STORIES, www.stories.com 4. Swimsuit NEXT, www.next.co.uk 5. Bikini OYSHO, www.oysho.com 6. GARNIER Fructis Hair Food Macadamia Smoothing Mask, www.garnier.in 7. A-DERMA PROTECT X-TREM Stick invisible SPF 50+ for localized fragile areas, extra water-resistant, www.aderma.com 8. Top COS, www.cosstores.com 9. Scented candle NOTES OF ZAGREB Upper Town, notesofzagreb.com 10. Quilted jacket Marc O’Polo, www.marc-o-polo.com 11. Scarf MANGO, shop.mango.com 12. A-DERMA PROTECT Invisible fluid SPF 50 + for combination to oily fragile skin, www.aderma.com 13. Skirt STRADIVARIUS, www.stradivarius.com 14. Sweatshirt GUESS, www.guess.eu 15. Dress RESERVED, www.reserved.com 16. Earrings MANGO, shop.mango.com 17. UBRAN DECAY Naked Ultra Violet Eyeshadow Palette, www.urbandecay.com 18. Collection Lokomotiva by Lana Puljić, orders: Instagram: @lokomotiva_bylanap, Facebook: Lokomotiva, lokomotivaworld.com

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A tailor made vacation has never been so close

Zagreb ring text and photographs: ZAGREB COUNTY TOURIST BOARD

© Mario Zilec

© Mario Zilec

© Robert Klarić

We all dream of far away destinations and are looking for something new, that will calm our desire for exploring, but above all we want a chance to relax. That luxury is literally at our doorstep.


Planning your weekend-getaway surrounded by greenery to refresh your spirit and relax your body with walks in an oasis of peace, harmony and an authentic experience, in a real rural sanctuary. Experience picturesque places, cultivated and fertile villages as well as numerous attractions throughout Zagreb County, from cultural sights, natural beauties, adrenaline adventures and many others, from Zaprešić to Samobor, over Pokuplje and Turopolje, to Moslavina and Prigorje… Inspirative photographs will remind you that Zagreb has the best „backyard“ and

encourage you to go and visit its green ring as soon as possible. WHY IS ZAGREB’S GREEN RING THE IDEAL PLACE FOR YOUR VACATION? Zagreb’s green ring is a inviting destination for all visitors and travellor’s passing by. It is a green oasis with magical nature, forests and water, which is rich in cultural heritage too. A list of intangible protected culture is a sign of originality and cultural beauty that has been developing amongst the people for centuries, with the ordinary folks who did not write history, but they lived it. We suggest you go there and explore. The green homeland has served as an inspiration to many greats for their thoughts and work. Their names have been engraved in our history in gold letters, and they especially remember them with pride in their home towns. Names such as Marija

BOTH PAGES: BIG PHOTOGRAPH: wooden chapel Wounded Jesus, Pleško polje; LEFT PAGE: BOTTOM: Plešivički copanjek – autochthonous salty shortcrust cake; sparklking wine from the Jastrbarsko region; folk customs from the Turopolje region - CAS Mičevec


Besides the basics – having the fundamental infrastructure and marked paths – it is very important for a bicyclist to have a clean landscape available without a lot of traffic, surrounded by natural beauty, with the occasional landmark worth stopping to see. For additional motivation any good place offering local food and wine along the way is also welcome. Zagreb County is becoming more well known for its developed and high quality wine scene. Local winers present their wealth with a diverse offer and style, but they are also aware that together they are stronger. This part of hilly Croatia is often in the shadow of the more famous and advanced wine regions of Croatia, but it isn’t difficult to remind the citizens of Zagreb that they don’t have to search far to find some excellent wine. The season of warm summer days is when the demand for wine grows and the market is full of fresh harvests. These difficult and insecure times aren’t easy for anyone and every bit of support counts. With their hard work they prove that they deserved it that is why we are inviting you to visit these beautiful hills in the green ring region around Zagreb. Raise our glasses and give a toast to a better future! The desire to get away from the city is totally natural and expected, especially if you have a family. The criteria for your family day trip is high because you have to fulfill different needs.These are above all peace, idyll greenery, but …not too deserted nor to wild . Children wantto play and explore, parents want to relax and hang out. It is also desirable to eat and drink well. Don’t worry ,this is all possible and not far away. The green ring of Zagreb offers many places that are made for pleasant family moments – from those totally passive, to those crazy active, amongst which are Kezele, Cowboy, Ethno farm Mirnovec, equestrian club Trajbar Team, Kršlin’s mill, Ecopark Kraš, Dva potoka, Stara preša, Repro eco and more. We all want an experience that is the icing on the cake at the end of the week. WHAT CAN YOU DO IN ZAGREB’S GREEN RING? The Žumberak mountains stretch between the Slovenian border on the west and Zagreb on the east. Saint Gera in the highest peak in continental Croatia at a height of 1178 meters. It almost hid here, in this harmonious and distinctive microregion under the name Žumberak. Nature runs the show – a small number of inhabitants are divided up into a few old areas – whose main part is protected within Nature Park Žumberak – Samobor mountains. People come here to relax and for recreation in the untouched nature. They enjoy the rich vegetation and animal world, as well as

the interesting past of the area. The path and the destination will primarily depend on your wishes, and whether or not you are a „hardcore“ athlete or more of the laid back type. All of Žumberak is crosslinked with marked pedestrian, hiking and bicycle paths so it would be good to take a precise map with you and find a good route (you can rent an electronic bicycle at Eco-center Budinjak or arrange a guided tour). Magical Žumberak is far from mass tourism; you can spend the night in a Bed and Breakfast, in a mountain lodge or go all out and rent a cottage. If you have your „own“ house available that is surrounded with greenery, and you don’t have to travel far – one could say that you found the ideal combination. Our ancestors would have called them country homes, and they knew how to live life, so there is no reason that we don’t follow their example. Many hidden comfortable homes are hidden inside the green ring around Zagreb. You can find privacy, peace and freedom, along with beautiful nature and country idyll – the simple life. Even though in these insecure times this sounds like a dream, a tailor made vacation has never been closer. The Plešivica mountain rises southwest of Zagreb, the southeastern branch of Žumberak mountain, which name associates to good wine. Even though the smallest wine region in Croatia, the south slope of Plešivica is one of our most famous and successful vineyards, with a tradition for growing grape vines for centuries. People don’t come to this picturesque region only for the wine – the wine roads can be combined with hiking and biking paths, and a popular Cheese road of the Zagreb region all passes by. Above the Pleševica hill you can see hawks, that were raised in the middle ages for hunting, after which the city of Jastrebarsko, on the bottom of Plešivica got its name. This place with a long history has been for hundreds of years the natural center of the Plešivica region and the starting spot for day trips in the area. An area rich in natural beauty and cultural heritage is situated between the eastern branches of the Žumberak mountains and the river Sava. In the center of all of this lies the city of Samobor. This urban gem, with a preserved old town center and numerous cultural attractions lures tourists not only because of its famous charm but also because of its beautiful green surroundings. Mountains and hills, vineyards and forests, streams and caves, picturesque villages and old forts, as well as delicious homemade food and wine – all of this is waiting for you in this geographically small, but content rich area in the outskirts of Zagreb.

Biking through nature is the most famous recreational sport for many, and the green surrounding of Zagreb was made for tourism on two wheels 24

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© Mario Zilec © Josip Krivacic

© Mario Zilec

LEFT PAGE: old town Lukavec; THIS PAGE: TOP: old town Žumberak – high fortress in the Žumberak mountains; MIDDLE TOP: panoramic view of the river Sava; traditional white polenta; woman in rye; Žumberak Mill beside the river Kupčina; MIDDLE BOTTOM LEFT: bike ride through the Jastrebarsko area; UNDER: luxury Villa Zahra; BOTTOM RIGHT: wooden chapel Wounded Jesus, Pleško field


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PHOTOS: GROŽNJAN (TZ ISTRA); MOŠĆENIČKA DRAGA (IVAN ŠARDI); TRAKOŠĆAN (DOMAGOJ BLAŽEVIĆ)

THE VACATION YOU DESERVE

is closer than you think

ENJOY CROATIA

croatia.hr

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Zagorje

a fairy tale at the palm of your hand


© Jasenka Haleuš

© Maja Danica Pečanić

© Marko Mihin

© Jasenka Haleuš

© Branko Balaško

BIG PHOTOGRAPH: vineyard in Vuglec Breg; THIS PAGE: FROM TOP TO BOTTOM: St. Mary’s church from the march to Vinogori; sour cream and cottage cheese; beautiful untouched nature; you can tour Zagorje on horseback; Miljan castle; Vuglec breg

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“Mommy dearest, today everyone in school was so quiet as never before because we were learning about Zagorje...” text: DAMJANA DOMANOVAC photographs: DAMJANA DOMANOVAC, KRAPINA-ZAGORJE COUNTY TOURIST BOARD ARCHIVES, KRAPINA NEANDERTHAL MUSEUM ARCHIVES, MUSEUM OF PEASANT REVOLT ARCHIVES

Ever since elementary school ( back in the 70s) have the verses of the poem by Stjepan Jakševac been in my head: that always reminds me over again of Zagorje, childhood and school friends. Verses from my childhood that I remember even in my 50s speaks for itself. That they are special as is Zagorje for that matter. Zagorje has always gravitated to the metropolitan, and the citizens of Zagreb have always “taken off ” to Zagorje on the weekends. We are reminded of this century long bond daily by the kumice (female market vendors) on Zagreb’s open market Dolac, that sell homemade specialities, such as sour cream and cottage cheese. This has become a synonym for the Zagorje area. Also, numerous weekend travellers head, but in the opposite direction, the one going towards Zagorje. Discovering new spots and OPGs (family farms), looking for refreshing thermal rivieras, visiting museums and various events, and above all enjoying the natural beauties for which this region is known for. LET’S HEAD ON OUR ZAGORJE ADVENTURE We will begin, where else but in far past, when the first inhabitants of Zagorje lived there, the Neanderthals, known today as „the prehistoric man of Krapina“. The introductory film that you can see before the tour of the Krapina Neanderthal Museum Kraneamus, shows that the Prehistoric inhabitants of this area lived in nearby, in today’s archeological finding Hušnjakovo. I have to throw in one personal note: my daughter, that is today 13 years old, was supposed to act in this film, but the masks

were so authentically made that she got scared and gave up. This can only mean hats down to the entire team for a job well done. The museum is impressive: from authentic scenes from the life of a Neanderthal, to the architectural solution which at first glance looks like you are entering the earth’s womb, that is a kind of half cave, natural habitat of the Neanderthal. What makes me especially happy is the fact that this unique museum has been talked about outside the borders of „Our Beautiful “, so you can see on the spacious parking lot license plates from all over Europe. Besides the Krapina Neanderthal museum, you can visit the well know castle Veliki Tabor in Desinić, where you can see a collection of cold weapons and armour from the 13th to 19th century, the Antun Augustinčić gallery in Klanjac, the museum “Old village” in Kumrovec, where old trades are presented, and the museum of Peasant Riots in the Oršić castle in Gornja Stubica (your school children will for sure tell you the story about Franjo Tahija and Matija Gubec, if you forgot). Stop by Gubec’s linden tree by St. George’s church in Gornja Stubica, over 400 years old. The only living witness of the Peasants riots back in 1573. It is 9 meters tall, With a trunk that has a radius of 4,7 meters. This linden tree was proclaimed a natural landmark and a protected cultural monument Fans of old cars will enjoy the Oldtimer museum Presečki in Krapina. They have been collecting and restoring oldtimers for more than 25 years. Today they have a space of up to 1100 m² and visitors can find out more about the history of the culture of automobiles and motorcycles.

THIS PAGE: FROM TOP TO BOTTOM: turkey with pasta tatters; details from the house in Vuglec Breg; Vuglec Breg; RIGHT PAGE: TOP: view of the hills of Zagorje; MIDDLE LEFT: Krapina Neanderthal museum; MIDDLE: details from the house in Vuglec Breg; carved bed in Vuglec Bregu; MIDDLE BOTTOM: monument to the Peasants Riot in Gornja Stubica; MIDDLE BOTTOM LEFT; ZAGORJE PLATTER: BOTTOM LEFT: typical window on traditional houses in Zagorje; BOTTOM RIGHT: detail from Vuglec Breg


Zagorje

GASTRONOMY FOR ALL

Besides the aforementioned sour cream and cottage cheese, which is the base for many specialties, such as štrukli from Zagorje (warm cottage cheese pastry), thin gibanica (pastry), bućnica (rolled pastry filled with grated pumpkin and cottage cheese) and zlevki (made from corn flour and cottage cheese). You will definitely find turkey with pasta tatters, roasted duck or pork prepared in different ways. From processed pork head cheese is very popular (scrapple), pork rinds (čvarci) and bloody sausages (krvavice). A hearty soup from Zagorje can substitute an entire meal because it is thick like a “stew”, enriched with mushrooms, potatoes and meat. It is difficult to answer when asked where is the best place to grab a bite to eat. I will name a few of the most visited spots, that have a good reputation. That is above all the popular Vuglec Breg (www.vuglec-breg. hr). Besides having an authentic accommodation capacity In wooden houses “as people once lived”, completed with the benefits of modern civilization, Vuglec Breg is an excellent place to learn more about the autochthonous cuisine from Zagorje. You can find almost everything that this region has to offer on the menu. After you sit on the beautiful terrace of the restaurant, with the view of the hills of Zagorje and the vineyards planted on the surrounding slopes, your experience will be complete. You can relax after a hearty meal on the a comfortable chair on the nearby meadow, XXXXXXXXXX Another popular day trip destination is Grešna Gorica (www.gresna-gorica.hr) in Desinić. In a cozy country atmosphere, on a hill with the view of Veliki Tabor, you will enjoy in homemade delicacies typical for this region. They get the ingredients from local farmers (OPGs) or from their own garden. Like every household in the country, the klet (hut) Grešna Gorica has domestic animals which children especially enjoy. After shopping in the Roses outlet in Sveti Križ Začretje, you can freshen up at Klet Kozjak (www.klet-kozjak.hr). They offer traditional specialties from Zagorje, along with meat, wine and their own homemade natural juices. Their house specialty is Kozjak pork loin (lungić). If you love autochthonous cuisine and food prepared in a modern way you should choose between Klet Bolfan in Hrašćina, the Mihanović castle in Terme Tuhelj, restaurant Magdalena in Krapinske Toplie, Villa Zelenjak-Ventek in Kumrovac or restaurant Bistricza, in hotel Kaj in Marija Bistrica.

© Branka Mašić

© Žarko Piljak


© Jasenka Haleuš © Damir Fabijanić

© Jasenka Haleuš

© Jasenka Haleuš


© Jasenka Haleuš

LEFT PAGE: TOP: Veliki Tabor castle; MIDDLE FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: oldtimer in the Oldtimer museum in Krapina; licitar heart are a traditional souvenir from Zagorje; homemade liver pate; MIDDLE BOTTOM LEFT: štrukli (cheese pastry) from Zagorje in Vuglec Breg; BOTTOM LEFT: wine from Zagorje has become increasing sought after; BOTTOM RIGHT: Krapina Neanderthal museum; THIS PAGE: typical house from Zagorje (hiža)

THE VIEWPOINTS OF ZAGORJE

If you climb up to the top of the ruins of the old city Kostela or Kostelgrad, which is situated north of Pregrade at 427 meters above sea level, you will see one of the most beautiful views of Croatian Zagorje. Besides climbing up the deciduous forest, you will enjoy the view of Sutinska valley and the river Kosteljna on the bottom. There is a beautiful view from the mountain house Picelj near Zabok, where true lovers of nature and hiking like to go. The path isn’t complicated or long, it is perfect for the elderly and families with children. Another well known viewpoint is waiting for you in Vinagora, on a 407 m high hill which is dominated by the Our Lady of Vinogora church. You can reach some viewpoints by horseback, passing through beautiful mountain paths with the wind in your hair. You can also go riding at „ranches“ such as Horses for Champions in Krapinske Toplice, Pia in Marija Bistrica and Zara in Donji Hruševac, as well as at OPG (family farm) Džakula in Kraljevec Gornji and Piljek in Ciglenica Zagorska. There are equestrian clubs in Veliko Trgovišće and Kumrovec, and in Stubičke Toplice you can visit the Centre “Rhythm with the horses.”

At the end of the day, hear the birds chirpping following the sun behind the grand hill of Taborgrad, from it Veronica’s whisper calling: “Let’s go, let’s go, what are you waiting for, come see the beauties of Zagorje hundred-year forests, green meadows, vineyards and romantic chapels on protruding hills...” BECOME A HELICOPTER PILOT Love flying and heights, but being a pilot has been an insatiable dream. In Zagorje you can become a pilot for a day. In the high technological institution Heli Centre, you can learn all about the history of the development of the helicopter, and in the museum, you can look at model aircrafts; the highlight will be the memorable experience of flying in a simulator above various world destinations. You

will fly in a real cockpit and experience different weather conditions, which will bring an additional dose of adrenaline to this top notch experience. The Aviation Training Center, located 45 kilometers from Zagreb, is the most exclusive in Europe. It is exclusive due to the Mi-17 full flight simulator (FFS). Maybe you will take it more seriously if we let you in on the fact that the helicopter flight was mastered by pilots from four continents. 33

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© Tomo Jeseničnik

DID YOU KNOW?

That the first supermarket in Croatia was open in Ivanec, on December 17th, 1956? People say that it was the first in all of south east Europe, and they can brag about the first cash register bought in 1957. If you head towards Zagorje with your youngest family members, you will most certainly cheer them up by visiting the Science park in Oroslavlje. This may sound strict, more for school, but if you check out its content, you will see that this place is everything but an ordinary school. Your children can create their own melody on a musical fence and learn more about how sound is made. If you remember the commercial “Don’t think about the cake” and its hypnotic spiral, here you can see how it works. If you still haven’t heard about a musical mirror, it is the real moment to find out what this physical phenomenon has to offer. SOME ARE LOOKING FOR REFRESHMENT OTHERS FOR HEALTH Zagorje is famous for its thermal rivieras and pools. This region is rich in warm therapeutical water which for years has been used for medical purposes, as well as for tourism. Many hotels have been renovated due to this, the pools have been modernized in accordance with world trends. Water parks are especially popular such as Aquae Vivae in Krapinske Toplice, as are the pools in Terma Tuhelj, Terma 34

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Jezerčica and Stubičkem Toplice. Thanks to the benefits that come with the thermal springs, in Zagorje you can find spas famous for helping various health problems. Lake lovers can head to the ones in Bedekovčina, known as the favourite background for newlywed photographs. EVENTS Even though currently it isn’t the time for big events and massive gatherings, the good news is that the ones announced for the following period, will take place outdoors. Amongst them are outdoor plays in Terme Jezerčica, as a part of the manifestation Summer in Donja Stubica, Loborfest in Lobor, 18th Garden Party at Luje Vranyczany in Oroslavlje, Stagecoach parade in Marija Bistrica, Best Voice of Zagorje in Sv. Križ Začretje, Little street festival in Stubičke Toplice, Pumpkin pie Fest in Kumrovec and many others. If you want to spend this summer actively and learn something at the same time, join the XXI Summer School of Geology in Krapina. Find out more about these and other current events on www.visitzagorje.hr.


© Jasenka Haleuš

LEFT PAGE: view on vineyards; THIS PAGE: TOP: Old village Kumrovec; BOTTOM LEFT: picknic on the meadow Vuglec Breg; TOP RIGHT: pools in Terma Tuhelj; MIDDLE BOTTOM: detail from Vuglec Breg; BOTTOM RIGHT: one of many chapels

© Jasenka Haleuš


Marija Bistrica text and photographs: MARIJA BISTRICA TOURIST BOARD

Marija Bistrica, is the largest Marian shrine in Croatia, famous for fostering traditional values

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t the mention of Marija Bistrica everyone will first think of the pilgrimage to the miraculous statue of Our Lady of Bistrica. Many believers have been coming to Marija Bistrica for centuries from all parts of Croatia and abroad, as well as individuals who want to experience the silence of a personal pilgrimmage, seeking and finding spiritual peace. The statue of Our Lady of Bistrica dates back to the end of the 15th century and belongs to the black Madonnas, although they discovered during its restauration that the black colour wasn’t its original colour. Marija Bistrica completed its pilgrimmage content with monumental calvary in the 20th century. The Bistrica region also developed old trades, offering products made out of honey, wood and clay. Candles, licitars, pots and wooden toys create a colourful and diverse offer for all generations. Wooden toys and licitars have been listed on UNESCO’s representative list of intangible cultural heritage is proof of a rich tradition and culture. You can see and experience on a very special and interesting way old trades In daily interactive presentations of diligent masters ‒ in workshops where licitars are made, and in workshops where wooden toys and clay products are created. The gastronomic offer of restaurants in Bistrica is diverse, and adapted for each guest – for those that want to try local cuisine, to those that love the atmosphere of a top-notch restaurant with high class service, with meals based on innovative interpretations of the cuisine of Zagorje. Younger guests, with their impatient adventurous spirit, can find pizzerias as well as small local restaurants that offer simple meals from Zagorje and other cuisines. The culinary offer in Marija Bistrica is a real treat because it contains well known specialties from the region. Well-positioned vineyards, bathed in warm rays of sun and the selfless effort and love of local winers, gives amazing fruits, that is exquisite grapes. In Marija Bistrica you can try wine that is protected with geographical indication which are all ranked quality wine.

THIS PAGE: BIG PHOTOGRAPH: outdoor church blessed Aloysius Stepinac; TOP HIGHLIGHTS: traditional children’s wooden toys; RIGHT PAGE: CLOCKWISE: entrance into the basilica Our Lady of Bistrica; Statue of Our Lady of Bistrica; aerial view of the basilica Our Lady of Bistrica; Traditional souvenirs – licitar hearts and candles; traditional treats from Zagorje “gibanica na tenkem”(thin cheese filled cake); outdoor church blessed Aloysius Stepinac; basilica interior; traditional toy „klopotec“; traditional toys


© Srećko Budek

© Srećko Budek

© Srećko Budek

© Srećko Budek

© Srećko Budek

The hospitality of locals, along with a rich offer and spiritual peace, are the characteristics of this idyllic place!


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Hotel "Sport" Etanska cesta 4 10 310 Ivanić Grad +385 1 2369 700 www.hotel-sport.hr

KNIN

This summer all paths lead to Knin. Visit this magical city and discover its hidden beauties! Knin is a city rich in history and beautiful nature, that travel writers in the 19th century described as “magical”. It lies on seven rivers and is surrounded by nine powerful mountains and colouful lakes. A beautiful waterfall Krčić comes out of the highest Croatian mountain Dinara, and above the city is the Knin fortress, one of the most beautiful fortresses in Europe. Knin will fascinate you during every season, but during the Summer it is especially packed with events. The City and Tourist board together prepared many interesting cultural and musical events during July and August, as a part of the manifestation “Summer in Knin”. This summer they planned outdoor plays, film projections and concerts to entertaining events for children and the youth. Expect to have an unforgettable summer in Knin. It is the perfect destination for nature and recreation lovers. This summer Knin will be host to two races. So, don’t miss visiting this “magical city” – its unusual beauty will steal your heart in a moment. For more information on “Summer in Knin” check ou the Facebook page of the Knin Tourist Board.

E Relax in Ivanić Grad, only a 25 minute drive from Zagreb. Stay in modernly equipped rooms and apartments and relax at the Wellness & Spa center in Hotel Sport as well as in the outdoor pool. Discover the rich food and wine offer at restaurant Garfield and the ho tel’s winery. Explore the cultural heritage and natural beauty of Moslavina. We also offer many interesting activities for children: children’s playground, paintball and quads, zip line and a big field.

The city of majestic history and nature

Knin Tourist Board Dr. Franje Tuđmana 24, 22300 Knin T: 022 664 822 W: www.tz-knin.hr E: info@tz-knin.hr FB: Knin Tourist Board IG: @knin_tourist_board


© Ivo Biočina

© Saša Pjanić

© Igor Šeler


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lavonia and Podunavlje text: MATEJ ČEPL photographs: CROATIAN TOURIST BOARD, DAMJANA DOMANOVAC

BOTH PAGES: TOP: Erdut fortress with view of the Danube; BOTTOM: black pig; colourful folklore costume; fiš paprikaš (fish stew) – local specialty; wooden trail in Kopački rit; Kopački rit is an area rich in diverse bird species

© Ivo Biočina


THIS PAGE: Eltz castle in Vukovar; RIGHT PAGE: interior of the cathedral in Đakovo

© Picasa | Miroslav Šlafhauser

Slavonia and Podunavlje (the Danube region) have numerous castles that are the legacies of noble families, and today they are part of a great cultural treasure. Most of them have been renovated and are a must visit lavonia and Baranja are part of continental Croatia which tourists have been discovering more and more lately. Around 80 percent of visitors to Eastern Croatia are domestic, and due to this situation - when traveling abroad is limited – it is ideal for those who haven’t seen the vast plains and powerful rivers meandering through them. Because of this, in order to emphasize the beauties of this region better, the eastern counties have joined forces under a platform called slavonia.travel, where you can get the inside scoop that will for sure motivate you to sit in your car, or on an airplane, train or bus, and experience this region first hand. If you decide to go to Slavonia and Baranja by car, it will take you two and a half hours from Zagreb to Osijek. The biggest city in Slavonia is the perfect starting point for touring this region, and it itself is also attractive for visiting. Many interesting events take place in the city which can also be a reason to come and visit. Osijek has gained a reputation of being a city whose youth has left to other regions in search of work. However, the situation in the city is different from what is believed. The younger generations greatly shape the picture of the city which visitors will see when they get there. You have heard of Osijek in the context of extreme sports and the Pannonian Challenge, as well as the manifestation HeadOnEast which fills the popular Tvrđa (citadel) with many stands and different points, gathering the best of what eastern Croatia has to offer. Even though during the summer we are mostly orientated towards the sea, but did you know that you can also swim in Osijek. Osijek has beaches on the Drava river, where locals can cool off during the summer. The most popular is Kopika (a localized name after

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the Brazilian Copacabana), where you can choose between the Drava river and a few swimming pools. With all that you can cool off with Osijek’s own domestic beer, one of the oldest in Croatia. Osijek also has a well equipped zoo, that you can go to by a boat that the locals call „kompa“ (pal). A short ride over the Drava and you are in an animal kingdom! Don’t forget to stop by the main square with its recognizable cathedral. From there you can walk through beautifully decorated parks to the famous Tvrđa – the old part of the city rich in history, which was in the hands of Turks and the Austro – Hungarian empire before it became Croatian. Everyone that managed the Tvrđa contributed in some way or another to its current appearance and cultural heritage. You will also find a few museums worth visiting (Archeological museum, museum of Slavonia, Shell Museum and Water World). Kopački rit is a 20 minute drive away from Osijek – this famous nature park is a must see destination for everyone in this part of Croatia. It is perfect for day trips, enjoying nature, bird watching, as well as boat rides on the lake. The grand finale is of course in one of the local households with famous fish specialties – fuel up with fiš paprikaš (fish stew), carp in forks or catfish perkelt. We recommend you go on the photo safari as well, where you can also watch various bird species that settle in this swamp region. The safari lasts between 6 or 12 hours; once 93 different species were listed (from a total of 295 bird species). Aljmaš, a weekend place on the mouth of the Drava river into the Danube is not far, neither is Erdut, where an impressive tower on the hill is located, offering a beautiful view of one of the most powerful rivers in Europe.


© Filip Beusan


© Vukovarsko-srijemska County TB

© Kamo Duboka

© TB Svz

© Nina Đurđević © Matija Sćulac


f you go further south, you will come to Vukovar, „City An unavoidable destination is the Principovac castle, which offers of Heroes“ which once again welcomes guests with open a panoramic view of the vineyards. Here you can enjoy excellent arms. Even though the Vukovar water tower is a recogniwine, a great party of golf or a game of beach volleyball. The castle zable symbol of the city, there is another location that you can be rented for organizing private parties, such as birthdays or mustn’t miss. We are talking about the Eltz Manor where weddings. If you stay in the city of Ilok, the right destination for the Vukovar Municipal Mua great time, and to spend seum is located. The manor the night is Ilok Cellars. is an extraordinary example There you will learn more of 18th century architectuabout the famous history re, built by members of the of the cellars, in a unique German noble family Eltz. visual ambiance of huge Even though it was pretty oak barrels where wine is destroyed during the last stored, in order to preserve war, in 2011 after its renothe special aroma and quavations it welcomed visitors lity. Besides enjoying a good in its full glory. One of the glass of wine and a delicious most beautiful and most bite to eat, you should visit modern Croatian museums Odescalchi castle, which has is located not far from the been turned into the town city – Vučedol Culture Mumuseum. It has medieval seum. It was named after a walls are visible from far Vučedol culture which was away. To learn more about situated at the bottom of a the city stop by St. John of hill, in the Vučedol region, Capistrano in which the fawhere a rich and advanced mous Franciscan is buried. Copper Age community deYou will hear more about his veloped in the 4th century story and its importance for B.C. The museum is moIlok from the representative dernly furnished in a clear of the local tourist board and visually impressive way which will proudly emphathat evokes the life and story size that Ilok had an imporof our ancestors from ancitant role in the life of one of ent times. the most famous preachers The next destination that of all times. you mustn’t miss is the city Let’s go back shortly to of Ilok, located 30 kilomewine. Besides the already ters away from Vukovar. Up mentioned Ilok Cellars, until now we haven’t looked wine lovers will definitely be back on the rich wine tradiinterested in some other imtion and high quality wine portant destinations, such LEFT PAGE: TOPE: vineyard in Erdut; MIDDLE: bow and arrow in Omanovac; torshi from this region, but this as Erdut, Kutjevo, Belja, – local specialty; staircase at the entrance to the wine cellar; state stud farm Đakovo; isn’t the right time for that. Feričancia, Daruvar… The BOTTOM: Parking lot for campers in Papuk; Papuk falls; THIS PAGE: monument of The city of Ilok is surrounmost famous wine varieties Ivan and Marija Kozarac in Vinkovci ded by which looks like enof Slavonia and Podunavlja dless vineyards owned by are dominantly Graševina, Ilok Cellars (Iločki podrumi) and less by small local winers. The as well as Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc, Rhine Riesling, Chardonnay, walk between the vineyard plantations is a real treat, with manTraminer and Sauvignon (from white wine), as well as Frankovka datory breaks for tasting the top harvest of Graševina or Trami(Blaufränkisch), Cadarca, Portugizac, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauviner, which are especially popular and widespread in this region. gnon, Merlot and Zweigelt, from red. Wine production in this area

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Numerous rivers and lakes are interesting for bathing and riding boats. he oral and ani al world ou will find in them are fascinating.

© TB Svz

© Ivo Biočina

is still developing; more and more new winers are appearing that are slowly „attacking“ serious wine awards, in Croatia and abroad. Special tour routes are organized for enjoying the wines of this region. This can definitely be a topic for a future travel story. y going on a pleasant ride from Ilok, through picturesque Slavonian villages, you will make it to Vinkovci another beautiful center of eastern Croatia. The City Museum is located on the Bosut river right in the heart of the city. Here you can learn about the history of Vinkovci and surrounding areas. The birth house of the writer Ivan Kozarac is also located in the city. The writer in his works described the accidents and mishaps of šokci (male inhabitants from Slavonia), known for their playful Slavonian spirit and way of life in the villages of Slavonia. Driving further towards the west you will come to Đakovo. Here you will see their famous cathedral that you for sure have already seen or will easily recognize when standing in front of. The Museum of Đakovo is right beside the cathedral. It was newly furnished in 2015 satisfying modern standards. An unavoidable attraction is the State Stud farm in Đakovo, founded back in 1506, making it one of the oldest in Europe. Today there are 160 Lipizzaners in this stable, which is why it is a live monument of history and tradition of horse breeding. Their owners seriously turned to tourism, in a way that they enrichen the program annually with thematic performances with horses, workshops for children, competitions and other horse related activities. For families with children these tame animals are a good choice for visiting and socializing. Right on the border with neighbouring Bosnia and Herzegovina is Slavonski Brod, seat to the Brod-Posavina county. You will notice in the city the Brod Fortress (Tvrđa) on the river Sava, similar to the one in Osijek and Stara Gradiška. Those three fortified complexes are a part of a big defensive system on the border towards the Turkish Empire, that was created by Prince Eugene of Savoy in the 18th century. The unique Gallery Ružić is situated on a total area of 1800 m², with the first exhibit of modern Croatian art of the second part of the 20th century. An important part of history and culture is the Brlić family house, in which the famous Ivana Brlić-Mažuranić worked. There you will find valuable historical correspondences and archives. In Brod you can also find the first world Tambura

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THIS PAGE: FROM TOP TO BOTTOM: Mailáth castle in Donjim Miholjac; rich Slavonian table; interior of a wine cellar; Kopački rit; RIGHT SIDE: TOP: summer pastime; interior of a traditional Slavonian house; MIDDLE: carp In forks – local specialty; creatively arranged front door; storks enjoying the sun; BOTTOM: Saint Catherine’s boat on rivers Spačva and Bosut; typical Slavonian house


© Slavonija Br 53 | pointers

© Nina Đurđević


© Horz

Museum, where you learn more about the most famous Slavonian instrument, as well as the Tourist-Industrial park Đuro Đaković, where you can take photographs in old locomotives and trams made by this industrial giant. Art lovers will definitely love it! ontinuing up north, we will head towards another well known Slavonian city. Požega, which totally fits its nickname „Pearl of the Golden Valley“, considering the fact that it is situated in the heart of the basin that is surrounded by Psunj, Papuk, Krndija, Dilj and Požega mountain. The city in the 19th century had the nickname – Slavonian Athens – because of the rich cultural life that took place in it, and which remains you can see today. Amongst the attractions that you must see in Požega are Saint Teresa of Avila cathedral, Holy Trinity baroque square with the Holy Trinity monument (votive monument of the plague from 1749), Saint Lawrence’s church with fresques from the 14th century, Jesuit college building built in 1711, the prva high school building from 1726, which was at one time also Miroslav Kraljević’s atelier. You will find nature’s miracle not far from Požega. Nature park Papuk spreads over the mountainous area in the middle of the plains. It is the perfect place to go for a walk in the forest and surrounding hills, to go hiking, bike riding and camping. The Panonian sea used to be on the area of today’s Slavonia, and due to the fact that Papuk is almost up to 1000 meters above sea level, it is possible that in the past its peak used to be an island. Today it is a land area rich

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in flora and fauna. The Croatian Parliament in 1999 proclaimed it to be a Nature Park „because of its extreme geological and biological diversity as well as Its value for cultural-historical heritage“. The big part of the Mountain Papuk and the smaller part Krndija belong to the Park spreading ove ran area of 336 km². Within the Nature Park itself are different areas, some with a greater degree of protection than others. They gained the status of a special protected area because of their uniqueness in certain areas, and broader. The list of special protected areas are: geological monument to nature Rupnica, park forest Jankovac, special reserve for forest vegetation Sekulinačke moutains, monument to nature Two oaks, monument to nature Yew habitat and a special floristic reserve Pliš-Mališčak-Turjak-Lapjak. The city swimming pools in Požega and in Lipik are close as well as lake Orahovica. They are a summer oasis and excellent swimming destination. People desiring adrenaline and good vibes now have a new destination – Adrenaline park Duboka. Park Duboka expands to an area of around 4000 m² in 2 polygons, with different equipment located between the trees. Adults have polygons with 12 elements, while children have with 9 elements in order for all generations to have adequate content. Our journey through eastern Croatia ends in Virovitica, where one of the most well-known Slavonian buildings is located – the impressive Pejačević castle which the famous noble family built on the place of the old city walls. Today the castle is owned by the city. It is surrounded with a new park that also has a wooden designer


© Filip Beusan

© Matija Rodak © Matija Rodak © Filip Beusan

© Slavonija

People from Slavonia and Baranja are known to be warm hosts with whom you will never be bored. As soon as you arrive, they will treat you to homemade brandy and the best Croatian kulen (sausages), they will play the tamburica, and you will be more than happy to have choosen the east for your holiday. bridges, which all have a tale connected to Virovitica. While Požega had the nickname „Slavonian Athens“, they called Virovitica „Little Venice“, because it had 16 bridges in the center of the city. The perfect way to learn more about this green city is the educational trail „Virovitica Alleys“, which leads you to locations in the city. You go through the city museum, personalizing the characters and stories, offering a once romantic view of the town. We should also mention the thematic „bee safari route“, where you Can learn useful information about honey producers and other honey products, as well as where bee communities are located.

Eastern Continental Croatia is enriched with interesting activities, and a more modern and diverse tourist offer and it is the right time to get to know more about them. For starters, think about all the delicious food waiting for you to try. Think about the green pastures and forget about the crowd and hustle. This region truly is special and spacious, and everyone will have enough space to explore. LEFT PAGE: Pejačević castle in Našice; THIS PAGE: TOP: Pejačević castle in Virovitica; domestic animals; birth house of Ivan Kozarac in Vinkovci; bell on the wall; BOTTOM: kayak ride in Zlatna Greda; interior of the Pejačević castle in Virovitica; Adrenaline park Duboka; snaša (Slavonian girl) 49

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1. Straw hat ACCESSORIZE, uk.accessorize.com 2. AFRODITA COSMETICS ART OF TANNING Hello, Summer Face & body cleansing foam gently removes impurities without drying out skin. Glow face & body mist intensely moisturizes and nourishes the skin. It maintains an intense tan while golden pigments give the skin a shiny and radiant look. webshop.afroditacosmetics.com 3. NEBO, jacket Isao, shop.nebo.hr 4. DUCRAY Melascreen Rich Cream SPF 50+ limits and lightens brown spots, www.ducray.com 5. Dress H&M Conscious Exclusive, www.hm.com 6. NIVEA Hyaluron Cellular Filler serum essence provides the skin with intense hydration that helps maintain its youthfulness, stimulates cell renewal and visibly refines skin appearance, www.nivea.com 7. Collection TruE, www.true.hr 8. NEBO, dress Andrey, shop.nebo.hr 9. Sandals SISLEY, www.sisley.com 10. EUCERIN DermatoCLEAN [HYALURON] is a comprehensive range of cleansing products that combine an extra mild cleansing complex with Hyaluronic Acid: a cleansing gel, a cleansing milk, a micellar cleansing foam and a micellar cleansing water as well as a toner and an eye make-up remover, int.eucerin.com 11. Top MANGO, shop.mango.com 12. Dress MANGO, shop.mango.com 13. Bikini PALMERS, www.palmers-shop.com 14. ARTDECO Angel Eyes Mascara 6-azure, collection “Bronzing 2020 – Feel the Summer It-Piece!”, www.artdeco.com 15. Trousers STRADIVARIUS, www.stradivarius.com 16. Scarf MANGO, shop.mango.com 17. High perfection skin-caring foundation DIORSKIN Forever Matte, www.dior.com 18. Earrings CLOUD & CO, cloudandcojewelry.com

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TREATMENTS FOR A PERFECT SUMMER This summer is going to be different in many ways. Regardless whether you will spend it by the beach of at home, having beach body and great skin will always be on a woman’s wish list. Due to a tight schedule the modern woman sometimes finds it is difficult to dedicate herself to search for the ideal beauty treatment. At Polyclinic Duduković we have singled out two great instruments that will bring your face and body back into shape.

ONDA

Treatment with the instrument ONDA is great for people who, even though they eat a balanced diet and exercise regularly, can’t seem to get rid of the imperfections in some parts of their body. ONDA in only one treatment – lasts ten minutes – solves three of the most common problems: tightens skin, removes cellulite and melts body fat. It is non-invasive and painless and an extremely efficient procedure. It guarantees perfect results with the minimum amount of treatments. It emits microwaves, working on the fat tissue and cellulit and tightens skin, at the same time “skipping“ its surface and directly targeting the subdermal tissue. This causes metabolic stress on the fat tissue and increases their temperature, which changes the chemical structure. In the end, it encourages the metabolism to start „sweating“, which we call the „blebbing“ effect. Due to the fact that it doesn’t cause harm to the membrane of fat tissue, they empty out by sweating – and this way they reduce.

HYDRAFACIAL

HydraFacial is an ultrapopular treatment which will make your face feel fresh. This hydrodermoabrasion cleans, hydrates, feeds and regenerates at the same time with the help of a water squirt and a cocktail of active matter that is applied to it. This instrument – a favourite amongst stars from show business – insures the experience of a top-notch peeling, throughout which your skin gently but very efficiently is cleaned from dirt gathered up in the pores. Abrasion is done using a special device that has a goal to open your pores in order to deep clean them, and at the same time reduce the visibility of fine lines, pigmentation and small scars, making your skin glow. While doing the abrasion a revitalized serum with antioxidant, peptide, hylaronic acid and vitamins is applied… The treatment includes lymphatic drainage, chemical peeling, calming serum and antibacterial LED lights, which remove dead cells and regenerate skin. Thanks to the combination of peeling and the infusion of nutritious matter, after only one treatment your skin look visible fresher, younger and relaxed... just the kind we deserve this summer! POLIKLINIKA DUDUKOVIĆ Trg Mažuranića 3, Zagreb poliklinika@dudukovic.hr +385 1 7798 124 +385 99 222 0017


Cultural Routes of the Council of Europe text: MINISTRY OF CULTURE (BROCHURE CULTURAL ROUTE OF THE COUNCIL OF EUROPE 2020) photographs: BROCHURE CULTURAL ROUTE OF THE COUNCIL OF EUROPE 2020; DAMJANA DOMANOVAC

The Council of Europe launched in 1987 the Cultural Route of the Council of Europe program, with the aim of presenting common cultural heritage and a better understanding of European cultural identity and shaping a joint cultural space. The program promotes sustainable development, education, educational and cultural exchange, while preserving natural and cultural heritage. Enrichening tourist offers reveals less attractive and less famous destinations that encourage cultural, social and economic development. In order to get the Cultural Route of the Council of Europe certificate each route has to present European values that are common to at

least three states. The Council of Europe has since 1987, when it suggested its first route the Pilgrimage of Santiago de Compostela, up until today certified 38 Cultural Routes of the Council of Europe. Croatia is amongst them with 11 certificates which makes our country a popular destination of rich cultural heritage. In 2016, the Republic of Croatia became a member of the Extended Partial Agreement on Cultural Routes (EPA) which was founded in 2010 by the Committee of Ministers of the Council of Europe with the goal of having better co-operation with member states. Today the agreement gathers a total of 34 member states.


Roman Emperors Route and the Danube Wine Route

Routes of the Olive Tree

© Uljara Zlokić

This route presents the itinerary of the intercultural dialogue and other activities directed towards the Mediterranean and the olive tree motif. This is an innovative concept which is also an alternative option of sustainable development for regions in which olives are grown. It represents a sort of bridge which starts from Greece and connects all the countries of the world, spreading the message of the olive tree and opening new communication and co-operation directions. The goals of this route are recording, evaluating and preserving the heritage of olive trees and improving the international promotion of the culture of the olive tree. These activities were carried out by a cultural oraganization „Routes of the Olive Tree“, founded in Kalamata, Greece in co-operation with an international scientific board and network of members and partners of all the Mediterranean countries. Route of historic thermal towns

© Uljara Zlokić

© Miodrag Mitja Bogdanović

Whether you are hiking, bike riding, traveling by boat or train along the Roman borders of the Danube, you will discover the extraordinary natural beauty of the river and its hidden history and archeological treasure. This route goes through Hungary, Romania, Bulgaria, Serbia and Croatia and is 3,5 thousand kilometers long. Croatia has the following places included in the route Varaždin spa – Aquae Iasae, Ščitarjevo – Andautonia, Pula and National Park Brioni, Split (Diocletian’s palace) and Solin, Zadar and Nin, Vid – Narona, as well as the wine region Ilok and Baranja. The route passes by archeological findings and their unique monuments, showing how ancient Roman culture expanded over the borders of the Empire. Wine conceptually merged with the introduction of Roman culture and social rituals in the Danube region.


Route of historic thermal towns The ancient Romans knew numerous European cities that had thermal springs; amongst them the Croatian city of Daruvar which has a 2000 year old tradition of bathing in thermal waters. Members from all strata of society could go to the spa, exchanging ideas, the „rules“ of the spa guaranteed civilized behaviour. Spas have the main role in encouraging peace, co-operation and creativity, in order to protect the built and natural environment and the promotion of sustainable cultural development. Building prestigious hotels and having a rich offer of recreational activities guaranteed permanent success to spa towns. Today their visitors can enjoy festivals, events and numerous artistic and creative activities, at the same time using the benefits of the thermal waters. This represents an experience that you can really “dive into”!

Atrium cultural route Totalitarian regimes that marked a great part of Europe thoughout the decades of the twentieth century, had significant influence on the appearance of the urban landscape. Today democratic Europe is decisive in condemning all totalitarian regimes, whose architectural heritage still exists on our streets and represents a part of our heritage that causes discomfort. By observing the architecture of the European totalitarian, fascist and communist regimes, we want to strengthen the identity of Europe in its uniqueness and diversity. The ATRIUM cultural route allows the research of sociological, ideological, and geographical complexity of the history of those regimes, through the prism of urban landscape in various cities. The Republic of Croatia joined the route in 2014; the Croatian route is run by the operative office of the ATRIUM association, with its headquarters in Labin.


Phoenicians’ Route The Phoenician route is a connection of major nautical routes that the ancient civilisations used already in the 12th century B.C. as the main trade and cultural communication lines on the Mediterranean sea. Today these paths symbolize the intercultural model on which the Mediterranean cultural route was based and which goes through numerous countries on three continents. It is founded on the succession of ancient civilisations, and Intercultural dialogue is achieved with the aim of sustainable, responsible and creative development of this area. Goods and services as well as cultural exchange moved on those routes. In 2018, Croatia became a full member of the Phoenician route, which is run by MultiCulTour – Association of the Mediterranean Cultural Route and the Phoenician route.

© David Matković

Wine has always been connected to tradition, identity and lifestyle. Iter Vitis was founded on that basis. It is a cultural wine route, certified by the Council of Europe in 2009. The route goes through 19 countries. Croatia joined last year and the bearer of the Iter Vitis route in our country is the Croatian Association for Tourism and Rural Development „Club members Village“. Just after it became a member of this interesting cultural route, Croatia was host to the General Assembly and conference „Iter Vitis – from heritage to brand“, on which they concluded that tourism and wine go hand in hand with each other. Wine is emotion, was said at that event from wine-growing Motovun in the heart of Istria, through which, along with three other Croatian wine regions, this attractive route passes.

© Martina Čelhar

European Wine Cultural Route


Destination Napoleon Napoleon’s life and work strongly influenced European cities and regions, shaping their history and appearance Napoleon’s heritage includes all different types of heritage, tangible and intangible, and Extraordinary influence is visible even today in almost all regions of Europe. This is exactly why the strong dimension of the European idea is present in this cultural route. Experiencing the European heritage, following Napoleon’s destinations, is the basic goal of the European Federation of Napoleon cities and their cultural route. Destination Napoleon represents 60 European cities in 13 countries, from Portugal to Russia. Present in Croatia since 2015, spreading its network of city members – Orebić, Brela, Milna, Mali Lošinj, Petrinja and Klis.

Impressionisms Routes

© Zvonimir Gerber

The Impressionisms Routes have since 2018 when it was certified connected places in which Impressionist painters from the 19th and 20th century lived, or were in some way connected to. They are places that include their sources of inspiration, as well as museums and institutions in which their work has been exhibited. The route starts in an existing base of 12 parts dedicated to notable French painters. The city of Ozalj joined in 2019 as the first Croatian city and the home town of the watercolour princess, Slava Raškaj (1877-1906), one of the most significant Croatian Impressionist painters. The natural beauty of the work she created are a source of inspiration for many artists even today, as well as a frequent destination of numerous visitors.


European Cemeteries Route Raising awareness about the significance of European cemeteries is the basic mission of the route that refelcts the historical, cultural, social, architectural and artistic development in all of Europe. A large number of historical cemeteries in Croatia are included also (Mirogoj in Zagreb, Kozala in Rijeka, Dubovac in Karlovac, City cemetary Varaždin, Boninovo in Dubrovnik, Zadar City Cemetery and others). The project activity was directed towards promoting cemetaries in tourism, organizing tours, events, exhibits and other promotional activities. Many cemetaries are outdoor museums, which connect history, art, art crafts, arhitecture and nature, and as such are interesting tourist destinations that are worth visiting in each city. © Zvonimir Gerber

Saint Martin Route Saint Martin Bishop has 44 parish churches all over Croatia dedicated to continuing to keep his tradition alive and almost 200 churches, chapels and ruined Martin sanctuaries and toponyms witnessing the power of the cult of this early christian saint who on his life path spread his mercy. Cultural center St. Martin, a Croatian – Scientific Association was founded in 2006 in Zagreb. Its goal as a member of the European Network of Cultural Centers of St Martin is to preserve, explore and promote the Croatian heritage of St. Martin Bishop. The association encourages the interdisciplinary approach to Martin’s heritage which is based on intercultural dialogue, exchange of experience and connecting, especially by setting the base of St. Martin and building the path to the Via Sancta Martina.


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1. Collection LOKOMOTIVA by Lana Puljić, orders: Instagram: @lokomotiva_bylanap, Facebook: Lokomotiva, lokomotivaworld.com; cake: Neka jedu kolače, Ivana Čuljak-Lošić, orders: Instagram and Facebook @ nekajedukolace, @chu_lo. Wonderful cakes can be enjoyed at A Most Unusual Garden, Horvaćanska 3, Zagreb 2. Blouse H&M, www.hm.com 3. YVES SAINT LAURENT Tatouage Couture Velvet Cream Liquid Lipstick, www.ysl.com 4. Fragrance MISS DIOR Rose N’Roses, www.dior.com 5. Top MISS SELFRIDGE, www.missselfridge.com 6. Flip-flops HAVAIANAS, www.havaianas.com 7. L’Oreal Professionnel Serie Expert Pro Longer Leave in Renewing cream for lengths and ends has heat protection up to 230 degrees and a lightweight texture. The hair is plumped and filled from the inside and protected from the outside thanks to the Filler A-100 technology. L’Oreal Professionnel Serie Expert Pro Longer Ends filler concentrate powered by FILLER-A100 and Amino Acid instantly provides strength and durable thickness to ends. Apply at home once a week. www.lorealprofessionnel.com 8. Fragrance ZADIG & VOLTAIRE Girls Can Be Crazy, Girls Can Say Anything, Girls Can Do Anything, zadig-et-voltaire.com 9. Dress & OTHER STORIES, www.stories.com 10. OLIVAL Rose Collection: golden oil, body milk and peeling gel, olival.hr 11. Heel shoes DUNE, www.dunelondon.com 12. Dress MISS SELFRIDGE, www.missselfridge.com 13. Garnier Micellar Rose Water Cleanse & Glow unleashes skin’s glow, for sensitive skin, www.garnier.in 14. EAU THERMALE AVÈNE Hydrance UV-Rich Hydrating Cream SPF 30, www.eau-thermale-avene.com 15. Home fragrance NOTES OF ZAGREB Dolac 2, notesofzagreb.com 16. Swimsuit GUESS, www.guess.eu 17. Slides DUNE, www.dunelondon.com 18. Bag DUNE, www.dunelondon.com 19. Dress & OTHER STORIES, www.stories.com

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Looking for an art piece to carry your things in? Meet KĂ…NKEN ART! This limited edition KĂĽnken backpack, designed by artist Moa Hoff, is available from July 15th in ShoeBeDo shops throughout Croatia. Of all human activities, art is probably the most difficult to define, but on the other hand, without art it is impossible to define man. Art doesn’t have to be pretencious, complicated and proud, at least not for true fans. This is why Svensk Form, a Swedish organization for arts and crafts proclaimed in 2017 KĂĽnken, the legendary backpack with which many generations of Swedish pupils had grown up with along with their peers from all over the world, a work of art. KĂĽnken Art is what happens when you give talented artists a KĂĽnken like a canvas, for them to express their connection with nature. This year Moa Hoff, Swedish illustrator and graphic designer was given this chance. They took her playful artistic expression and transformed it into a unique pattern that KĂĽnken will stick out in the crowd. Not in a cheap, provocative and shocking way, but in a way that after you notice it, you can’t stop looking – just as is the case with other masterpieces. It is also worth noting that part of the proceeds of each sold KĂĽnken Art will be donated to Arctic Fox, an initiative for preserving nature, and protecting the polar fox which gave Fjällräven their name and logo. XXX Ä–BMMSBWFO DPN

COLOURS AND SCENTS OF HERZEGOVINA Day Trip

PoÄ?itelj – art colony and a city museum from the 16th century. Mogorjelo – valuable heritage from ancient times. Archeological site was found and between 1899 and 1903 excavations were carried out. Kravice waterfall – a magnificent natural phenomenon and the most beautiful cascades in Herzegovina, 26 meters tall and around 120 meters wide. Museum of the Franciscan Monastery – Humac, together with its rich archeological collection guards one of the oldest documents from this region – Humac Panel

from 1185. Tourist route of scents and health – a family business with over 20 years of experience and a certified organic production of essential oils giving you the chance to try the best that nature has to offer. Discover and experience Međugorje, one of the most famous pilgrimage destinations in the Catholic world attracting millions of visitors. 3BEF #JUBOHF t .PTUBS t #*)

t IFBEPÄ?DF!GPSUVOB CB XXX GPSUVOB CB


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ISTRIA

SVETVINČENAT The renaissance town of Svetvinčenat, one of Istria’s gems, is famous for its square with harmonious architectural proportions, known as the Placa, and for the castle Morosini-Grimani, the symbol of this place and one of the most important Venetian forts of that time in Istria. The first fortress was built at the beginning of the 13th century, and due to the turbulent centuries of warfare in this area, the architecture of the castle has suffered a lot of damage. Thanks to the Morosini and Grimani di San Luca family, after which it is named, the castle got its current shape in the 16th century, after the great fire, when it was renovated in accordance with the plans od Venetian architects. Tthe castle entered 2020 with a new look ‒ a completely renovated palace. The most significant part by far that is worth visiting is the multimedia exhibit. Besides all of this, the castle always has a unique game available “escape from the castle”, in which 35 players can at the same time show their chivalrous skills.


You can spend a lifetime discovering Istria. It is fascinating, always different and unrepeatable. We will introduce you to some of its less explored, but equally beautiful destinations. prepared by: JADRANKA APOSTOLOV photographs: MUNICIPALITY OF SVETVINČENAT, MUNICIPALITY OF LANIŠĆE, MUNICIPALITY OF BARBAN, TOURIST BOARD OF THE CITY OF ROVINJ – ROVIGNO, CITY OF ROVINJ-ROVIGNO, TOURIST BOARD OF THE CITY OF VODNJAN, CITY OF VODNJAN-DIGNANO, MUNICIPALITY OF GRAČIŠĆE, AB FOR CULTURE OF THE ISTRIAN COUNTY, MUNICIPAL TOURIST BOARD ŽMINJ, ROBERTO RADIĆ

LANIŠĆE Many settlements in the inner part of Istria are rich in history and cultural value and have a special significance in terms of preserving the Istrian identity; therefore, it is not surprising that one of the main priorities is closely related to their renewal and revitalization. We are talking about the rich legacy that derives from prehistory, and has been preserved up until today in different historical shapes. The rich history of Lanišće has many cultural-historical monuments that testify to the greatness and liveliness of a place in which today there are more empty facilities then inhabitants. There are also numerous potential archeological findings yet to be explored. One of the most important and most famous is the archeological location of the Rašpor fortress, located on the Gradina hill and inhabited since prehistoric times. This fortress encouraged the Municipality of Lanišće to include itself in the first EU project in that area.


BARBAN Barban is a little picturesque medieval settlement of the acropolis type in Istria. It has well-preserved architectural buildings from the Baroque period and Gothic, frescoes and Glagolitic inscriptions, churches, palaces and city walls, and a knight game called “the Race for the Ring” (trka na prstenac), making it a very attractive destination for a day trip for fans of cultural and historic heritage. The tame nature of the interior, access to the sea in Raska bay, renovated villages with the offer of luxuriously equipped villas with swimming pools and other facilities, as well as the gastronomic, adrenaline, recreational and cultural offer, have contributed to the accelerated development of tourism in this municipality. The offer in Barban from last year is richer for one more additional content. It is a center where visitors can experience the „Race for the Ring“ all year round. This multimedia space gives visitors an educational and innovative presentation, where they can even feel as if they are participating in the race.

DRAGUĆ

© Elena Uljančić

© Julien Duval

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The House of Frescoes in Draguć is a must see for visitors. It is located in this charming and somewhat deserted medieval town in the hinterland of Istria, only a half an hour drive away from Rijeka. The House is in a renovated old school and even older Captain’s house where exhibits, seminars and workshops on the topic of wall paintings have been held since 2015. This year it received the role of the center of the future cultural route next to the frescoes in Istria. Istrian frescoes are an interesting cultural phenomenon, this small peninsula has an incredible amount of preserved locations with wall pictures of all different styles, iconography and time of origin. There are up until now almost 150 known locations, and a few dozen that can be visited freely. You can find more information about the availability, state and importance of the House of Frescoes in the house, and after the tour the guide will also take you through Draguć.


MOMJAN The visitor-interpretation center “House of the Istrian Fortress” is the continuation of a comprehensive project that has been worked on for many years for the revitalization of the interior of Istria. It has been conceived as an attractive place for tourists and a modern architectural marker of a building of traditional architecture, a former old post office and a dairy in the center of Momjan. The multimedia solution in an innovative way provided a way to promote natural and cultural, as well as food and wine heritage in the interior part of Istria and Momjan, with an emphasis on Istrian fortresses, noble families, local producers and winemakers. The interactive setup allows visitors to participate and it presents the content using innovative IT technology, such as the augmented reality mobile application, which allows you to view the historical 3D reconstruction of the castle in real locations throughout Istria.

ROVINJ The historical center of Rovinj is located on the hill, on the limited space of the former island, with houses compacted next to one another all the way up until the area in front of the magnificent church St. Euphemia (St. George), which with its thin bell towers over the city. The island was connected with land in 1763 by backfilling the channel. Beautiful outdoor staircases, porches, doors, yards, dead ends, gutters, roof terraces and attics, as well as many Chiaroscuro effects, thanks to „plastic“ decorations on doors, windows, balconies and cornices, are special and recognizable characteristics of Rovinj’s urban center. The Ministry of Culture awarded it the status of intangible cultural heritage because of its uniqueness. Today, in the old town, in many historic buildings, it is possible to enjoy an unforgettable vacation, because many small luxury hotels opened up, and many old houses have been converted into luxury apartments.

© Robert Stanojević


VODNJAN Vodnjan is a charming small town, located in the southwestern part of the Istrian peninsula, close to Pula. The area of Vodnjan is famous for its top quality extra virgin olive oil; with many small producers of this „liquid gold“ from the area on the top of the FLOS OLEI rank list, world guide which experts consider the Bible of extra virgin olive oil. Vodnjan is also an area with the highest concentration of dry stone wall and kazun, rich in archeological findings and sacred heritage and a very creative place where many artists feel comfortable creating their art. Visitors can explore the squares and narrow alleys, take a tour of the Vodnjan mummy, or indulge in traditional cuisine. Italian writer Fulvio Tomizza concluded that you can’t get to know Vodnjan with one tour; you have to take it slow, like with an old love or friend.

BUZET © Danilo Dragosavac

Petrapilos Castle lies on a 119 metre high hill, above the valley of the Bračane stream, tributary of the river Mirna. It was a strategic position from which the road leading through the valley to the interior of Istria was controlled. It was mentioned in historical sources as early as the 12th century, although archaeological findings testify that there were inhabitants even earlier in this region. Kaštel was renovated with the help of Vikarda II. of Petrapilos, when it probably started to look as it does today ‒ outer yard, palace and chapel. Historical sources say that the de Petrapilos where skilled warriors, but they stopped appearing in the 14th century and the fate of the castle has been unknown since then. The Venetians took over it in 1421, as the last possession of the patriarch in Istria. In the beginning they thought about tearing down the fortress, but luckily they didn’t. Even though it was old and unkept, it was well fortified and with minor repairs could serve in defense of the area. The fortress wasn’t renovated later, but was preserved in its original medieval form and abandoned after a catastrophic fire in 1620.


GRAČIŠĆE Gračišće, where there was no accommodation capacity, today has about 50 apartments, and that much more in the area of the municipality, which proves that real tourism development is being initiated in Gračišćine. A dozen manifestations take place here each year amongst which: Wine Exhibit Gračišće, Zasopimo na organić (Let’s Play Accordion), Istrian Minestrone Festival and Vidova. Based on its projects and manifestations, Gračišće turned from a little modest place to a famous destination throughout the world, which is visited by more and more tourists daily. Gračišćina has a beautiful landscape without industry, old town centre which has been raised to a higher level by being paved, and a series of beautiful bike and hiking trails. The hiking trail of St Simon goes through the hilly area of Škopljak through almost untouched nature.

ŽMINJ Who wants to avoid „posh“ places in Istria, and loves peace, nature and silence, has to come to Žminj. It is hard to believe that a municipality with only 3500 inhabitants has 112 villages. It also has as many chapels as it does villages. Actually 118 chapels to be exact – even more. You don’t need a car in Žminj because it is best to tour around it on foot or by bike. Three attractive bicycle/hiking trails pass through Žminj, on a total of 60 kilometers (Žminjka, Rumenija, Žminj - Feštini). The trails streak through a green field and woods, passing through the kazun, dry stone walls, vineyards, puddles and local family farms (OPGs). City kids will for sure enjoy themselves – where else can they see donkeys, sheep and cows? These memories have faded even for the older generations. So rest your feet and get off the bike by the Feštinsko Kraljevstvo Cave which not only hides an amazing story hides incredible stalagmite. One of the most beautiful views on the peaks of the Učka close to the Ceranska forest will impress you and we will leave to discover the secret connection between Žminj and coffee to you.


MAIN TOPIC

THE ALCHEMY OF TRADITION AND ART Imagine a house with a view, in Istria or in Dalmatia, you must have seen it as a relaxed and fragrant place, full of light, harmonious and functional decorated space… All this was applied, in a special and slightly different way through architecture and interior design, by famous designer Boris Ružić. It tells us a story of tradition in a new guise, which will leave a lasting value and novelty to newer history. prepared by: DAMJANA DOMANOVAC photographs: RAJA MILOŠEVIĆ, KORIDOR 27 photographs San Canzian: HRVOJE SERDAR


LEFT PAGE: Skradin; THIS PAGE: LEFT: Kozljak Fornazar; RIGHT: Červari

© Šime Eškinja

Scenographer, cook, interior designer… it would take us a while to count all the occupations of this versatile artist who considers it a life challenge to play with various spheres of activity. This born creator, chose design as the backbone of his life activity and has been successfully „making“ it for years. He likes to say that the world has a countless number of seductive inspirations, people, idols, objects of desire, good designer dictations, styles, colours and textures… but one place, one day and one big new idea turned and launched his business in the direction of event design, and along with that in the sphere of architecture and interior and exterior design. The most important thing is for him is awareness the inner feeling that, is the first answer, it cannot be wrong, because each new goal has a new idea. Boris in his projects plays with the interpolation of modern elements, merging them with the historically traditional, and maintaining the recognition of the environment of the region itself the entire time. He creates a type of experience recognizable through a series of emotions that arise in parallel with the development of architecture and design. In short, architecture and design for Boris mean creating a different experience, that differs from what is considered to be the standard for most. In other words, his view of architecture and design has to be independant from the taste of the majority, but at the same time timeless in a way that the completed project looks tempting and harmonious on the first, the second and every following look. “Beauty and harmony in architecture have already been invented” – stresses Boris. Sometimes they are in front of us, we just have to notice, redesign and apply them. Or when designing a new design, use the feeling for contours of existing buildings and ultimately save them from situations that have arisen in the last 30 years, when they began to resemble Mexican haciendas, or some kind of false tradition, the so-called fast design, in flattering world trends for the lower middle class! Boris’ job is like traveling. Boris travels through history, researching elements of traditional cities and villages. He travels in the present, inspired by the past, working and creating new projects which he leaves for the

future. Actually, he is constantly traveling, broadening his personal and professional horizons. He loves to emphasize that his work begins where imagination stops! He never experiences the entire interior, because he is attracted to details and solutions. He is famous for being one of the first designers to have created the so called art holiday homes, with a „gallery“ approach and concept of design, whose basic meaning is the variability in space with each new shift in design. Traditional Istrian architecture is an eternal inspiration for him as well as natural materials such as rock, concrete, iron, wood, with minimalism in picturesque landscapes, an organic approach and the usage of everything inherited from Mediterranean architecture – in honour of his ancestors. This way he is returning to nature what basically belongs to it. Man, object and nature make one, and this is reflected in a sustainable living space, the way it was imagined and created by Boris Ružić. He could have lived anywhere, in any world metropolitan, but he realized that he didn’t want to seperate from what he loved as a child and what he still loves his heritage. He is creative even when he is walking through olive trees, and the old oak forest, to the dusty village square and further to his grandfather’s house. Rough dry stone walls, doors and porches, a radom old bottle in the yard, metal windows, scents and tastes, this is all part of the past that is an eternal inspiration for him. Nevertheless, he is an artist, genetically modified in the Mediterranean culture, in the tradition of his ancestors, in the organic architecture of Istrian cities and places, especially in his village. Here he has everything he needs – peace and balance in life that no one can upset and which for sure he would not have found if he had gone thousands of miles away from home. Boris continues to learn about how our people once built, as a way of celebrating tradition as a guideline to our identity and as a guide to life. Man was made to progress and with his work show growth and love towards what makes him happy. 67 P L ACE 2 GO


SAN CANZIAN VILLAGE & HOTEL


Creating a timeless space and destination for the future, is the eternal challenge and initiator of each project that Boris does, and one of those is the San Canzian project Man, nature and architecture form a harmonious whole that is reflected in shaping our living space. San Canzian isn’t primarily just a new destination in Istria, but a project for creating identities based on the traditions and Istrian architecture in nature. His design is an unavoidable part of all spheres in our life. In the San Canzian project, he created an experience that is different from what is for most a standard. This is what his vision of architecture and interior design is. It was a real challenge to shape the complete architecture and nature of the climate, with the aim of making the project look timeless, tempting and harmonious at first, second and fiftieth glance. He created the San Canzian project using the emotion of pure attraction, with the interpolation of modern elements in traditional elements, the play between architecture and design which is visible the entire time, holding the recognizable surrounding of Buje. Autochthonous architecture has been his eternal inspiration, it is the only right formula for the identity of a certain destination. This way we choose and categorize ourselves which type of guests we want to attract. According to

that, Boris created the present for the future, and how the future always becomes the past, he created a past which already has an eternal design! Inspiration... Eternal inspiration in the scheme of putting stone on old dry rock walls, rusty old gates as an inspiration for corten details, forms of old windows and window panes in contrast with industrial black windows, terrazzo and stone floors in combination with concrete, naturally irregular wood and stone with their irreplaceable beauty, colour and texture, all together are just a part of the visual contours of inspiration. This project’s style is a bit eclectic, such as putting together different styles and directions, which don’t belong in simple styles because it isn’t just about using a bunch of elements. The projects style is about taking all those different elements and making them function harmoniously at first glance. As a whole they have a special charm, originality, playing with the incompatible, which is actually the main rule of this style. In the San Canzian project, it was thematically made to be a traditional, minimalist-eclectic style, with Istria as the eternal inspiration.


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VILLA GIUSEPPE Another timeless project that unites space and destination is the villa located in one of the most beautiful Istrian places Bale

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Villa Giuseppe is a modern building, and the author found inspiration for its surroundings in the inexhaustible tradition and past of Bale, its place of origin. Villa Giuseppe is also a project of creating an identity based on traditional Istrian architecture as well as design which is unavoidable in all spheres of our lives. On the ground floor there is an open space concept with a superb kitchen, dining room and living room, whose modern visual complements the opening / view of the pool, but also the upstairs gallery space, which are led by minimalistically designed designer stairs, into rooms overlooking all four corners of the world. The hot and cold spaces, that is the places where you will relax, are The outdoor summer kitchen with carefully “designed” shade for the summer, and an outdoor fireplace for colder days. You can relax not only by the indoor pool, but also in the sauna, with fragrant Mediterranean herbal oils. The neutrality of the space is intertwined with pieces of designer furniture and decorative handmade details, such as oversized paintings on the walls. Details from natural materials perfectly fit in with this style: wood, stone, metal, linen fabrics and leather, which associate with tradition, the classics and the past, and in their new form to a modern design or redesign. The colours and textures look simple and calming at first glance ‒ natural tones and clean surfaces are the basis for comfort in any of the four seasons, you can follow the change with the view through the large glass window in the house. It’s all about the details! This house is like a gallery in which, at any time, you can enter and effectively combine classic, vintage or modern style. This make sit look functional, beautiful and at the same time comfortable.

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B1 and B2

These two Istrian villas join modern, industrial and rustic, offering a new experience of living in a rural environment ART living

The contemporary industrial design of the B2 villa, together with the rustic details and natural textures and designer furniture, create a unique atmosphere. The house is located on a hill, this way each room has a view of the Adriatic sea, as well as the flawless outlines of the olive trees, vineyards and small Istrian town. It is surrounded with stone walls, a covered lounge zone to make your stay more pleasant during the summer heat, and an interesting pool line with a waterfall. While entering the villa you will first notice an open space concept that connects the kitchen, dining room and family room. The kitchen is a continuation of the dining room, with well-known Vitra and Kartell by P. Starck chairs. A massive wooden table took over the main role, as the central point between the kitchen and the family room. Stairs from the family room lead to the upstairs floor, where spacious rooms with bathrooms that captivate harmony are located. The choice of colours, materials and

furniture will surely defy time and trends. There is a view from each of the four bedrooms up on the top floor looking at 15 kilometers of the remote sea. The biggest room is in the attic, and it has its own family room and fireplace. The ground floor flows excellently with the summer kitchen which is also the lounge zone. All the rooms have precisely designed lighting. The shapes of the industrial lighting fixtures design, along with the exterior architectural lighting it provides gives a completely different scenography of the building during the night ambience. Another historical facility is situated within the villa. The former barn was turned into a comfotable Spa wellness zone. The lounge zone is partially oriented towards the north, which achieves a pleasant harmony for your stay and comfort, especially on hot summer days. 73 P L ACE 2 GO


VILLA VIZZANI

A modern cosmopolitan interior, associated with the nostalgia of Istrian villages, adorns this extraordinary villa near Labin


Each road leads to some path, path to a meadow, meadow to a forest, forest to a house, house to man, and so on, discovering the beautiful unique places in Istria. Such a road will take you from Labin to the top of the road where Villa Vizzani is located. The basic idea of the building project is maintaining the classic form of the Istrian climate, which adorns a modern cosmopolitan spirit fused with a traditional look, derived from the idea of respecting the autochthnous architectural surroundings of this villa. The interior itself, through the reinterpretation of traditional elements, reveals in an innovative way a spacious ground floor. The floor plan zones have a living room and kitchen with a dining area which is carefully designed in a harmonious whole. It has the atmosphere of an elegant home and an intimate ambience of a lounge area for guests. The villa merges with the modern through a carefully designed Mediterranean garden with a pool whose surface / view literally touches the woods in the distance and the blue sky. The steel staircase looks like an unusual sculpture and dominates the ground floor. The colour and texture of the climate are the basis for the colour map and materials for the interior. They are completed with special details which connect the design’s modern interior with the nostalgia of the countryside. Get away from the city and give yourself the dose of peace you need in this attractive villa!


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COVRI

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If you would ask Boris which project he would single out he would without a doubt say that Villa Covri is special to him The Villa was named after the Istrian village Kovri, where it is situated. Construction of the estate began in the 16th century, and it was given its present form in 1801. It was completely renovated in 2017, with high quality furniture, designer lighting (Karman, Flos, Macrolux) and antiques that had been collected for years from Italy (Vicenza, Bologna, Udine, Venecija). A lot of focus was placed on the heritage of the house and the traditional Istrian style. At the same time, it is a mixture of antique and modern functionalism, which makes a modern and practical space. An interesting fact is that Boris wanted to add and in his own way connect Istria with his beloved Toscany. This is visible on the pool houses which he ordered from Toscany from the famous „artigianalia“. He had three handmade antique bocchett ones made. While renovating the villa special attention was also paid to originality and environmentally friendliness. Old ertes were used as a decorative element, the old stone for the wall in the yard, the house was plastered by hand, using old techniques, the hardwood oak floors were coated with oil, and ecologically acceptable colours were used to paint the walls… The pool is disinfected by electrolyzing the salt water instead of using chlorine. The interior of the villa has three floors. It successfully combines the traditional Istrian with the modern industrial style making this place even more special.

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ULMUS

The name of the villa when translated from Latin is Elm, and one such century-old tree proudly grows next to it, offering a new architectural experience

Two offset “cubic kažunas”, like Siamese twins, are connected by a square atrium on the side of the building, which is also the main entrance to the villa. The central place is occupied by a corridor, that is a glass atrium with an olive tree, which reveals a “gap” with a view of the pool, as well as the left and right side of the building. The left cube is the kitchen and dining area, with a family room. A carefully designed space in an ideal combination of aesthetics and practicality. On one hand illuminated by a large window fixer in black steel, in a wooden frame type that is also a bench overlooking the minimalist pool, and on the other side a glass sliding rock in front of which is located the lounge Ketall set, which connects and at the same time visually enhances the interior space with the exterior - offers a liberating and beautiful view of the magnificent wooded horizon. The interior itself moderates the contrast of colours and textures, such as beige sofas and walls, and other simple but strong furniture elements in wood and metal, complemented by designer decorative and light installations. 78 PLACE 2 GO

The most obvious contrast is between the concrete ceiling and the floors rustic natur parquet, which actually “closes” the space into one, visual whole. The right cube is spatially two bedrooms, where daylight enters through the spacious glass sliding rocks that connect them to the exterior, creating a sense of open space, in symbiosis of nature and housing culture. The main thought behind everything was the synergy precisely as it is in natural scenery. This is seen in the beds upholstered with linen material, carpets and jute canvases painted by famous designer Teo Perić, with handmade macrame decorations and designer lighting elements. Like all rooms in the villa, the bathrooms have glass walls and in their own way support the basic idea of turning life from the inside out! The central place of the garden is occupied by a large space with a swimming pool and sun deck, and a well-integrated open summer kitchen, so socializing by the pool is associated with cooking, and cooking with socializing in open.


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BAS de BAS BIBICH Stone and vine, as the main inspiring elements, taken from the Dalmatian landscape vineyards located between the sea and the sky, are the main inspiration for this designer experience, with a dedication to the art of living

Located on top of the hillside from which the view merges with the horizon line of the vineyard and the sky, these villas are a successful blend of natural textures and stone colours, combined with the authentic environment in which they are built. The floor plan, is like an antique weighing scale. Each one is located on every side of the minimalist long pool, with two sunbathing areas connecting and separating them, creating an architectural intimacy. The lounge zones located on the opposite side have a special intimacy, from which you have a view of vineyards and the picturesque landscape of Dalmatian Zagora. A designer story about the synergy of nature and man and the merging of traditional heritage and modern expression, is most visible on the steel and glass walls of the façade, through which the interior can be seen. An unmistakable sense of colours and shapes is evident in the modern concept of the kitchen 80 PLACE 2 GO

and living room, located on the ground floor and in the spacious upstairs rooms, bathed in light penetrating through the glass walls, overlooking the narrow and long pool with two sunbathing areas on opposite sides. The designer opted for a strict and simple interior design, imbued with nostalgia that is seen and felt, both in the choice of materials, such as stone, polished concrete, wood and linen upholstery fabric, as well as in the design of eminent Italian manufacturers of furniture. The colours of natural stone and wood are present in the building, with a predominance of black in metal details, as well as black paintings by designer Teo Perić that adorn the walls. Six hectares of vineyards planted with various wine sorts such as syrah, merlot and souvignon blanc, bring the aromas of Dalmatia and the flavors of selected wines, implemented in the complete experience of this project.


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ALMAYER ART & HERITAGE HOTEL

This small family boutique hotel is located in Kampo Kaštel, a historical neighbourhood in the historic district of Zadar

The owners of the hotel envisioned Almayer as a unique art hotel and gallery, with an ambience in which centuries-old heritage and contemporary art and design intertwine. While a comprehensive renovation of the exterior complex reconstructed the historical appearance of the building from 1863, the interior of the hotel had undergone a complete metamorphosis, which created a visually rich space, truly eclectic, filled with the cosmopolitan spirit of the Mediterranean. Conceptually conceived by Otgonedi Dervišević, this demanding renovation project was completely designed by Boris Ružić. Guided by an aesthetic manifesto combining heritage, design and contemporary art, Boris put emphasis not only on landscaping, but also on creating an experience of a place that instinctively exudes the comfort and atmosphere of home. Each surface represents a canvas for artistic expression - from works of art by contemporary

artists to selected designers of furniture and creative architectural solutions - creating a unique environment and experience in which art is at the very focus. The entire space is dominated by the energy of natural materials, calm colors, from wood, stone and steel, to French decorative cement. The spot lighting in the gallery does not dominate but emphasizes both numerous works of art on the walls and individual architectural solutions. The overall result is an eclectic combination of retro-chic, in which the rustic details found are incorporated in the elements of industrial and modern, Mediterraneanized Scandinavian design. The courtyard of the Almayer is surrounded by a 4.5 meter-high medieval stone wall, and after its complete renovation, it was converted into a “secret garden” filled with citrus fruits and, above all, stories. 83 P L ACE 2 GO



BIANCHINI

(ANNEX OF HOTEL ALMAYER IN ZADAR) A new life for one of the mot beautiful historical palaces in Zadar The owners of this hotel, partners not only in business but in life, Irina Bakija and Vjekoslav Bobić did a great job on decorating this hidden pearl in the historical part of the city. They collaborated with Istrian designer Boris Ružić, and this resulted in an eclectic combination of retro chic, combined with rustic details and elements of modern design. Irina and Vjekoslav began working on a new story in the same way: arranging the hotel annex in the historical house of Bianchini, the first building of modern architecture in Zadar. The decision to decorate four modern, comfortable rooms in this house, is everything but accidental. This building, full of historical symbolism and importance, was built in 1914, at the dawn of the First World War. ts construction was ordered and organized by Juraj Bianchini, a prominent Croatian renaissance politician, builder and journalist. Today one of four rooms is named after him. From the beginning, they had a vision of what they wanted with this valuable historical space. The design was to emphasize the intellectual and civic heritage of Zadar, with a small dose of Central European melancholy, southern nostalgia and a memento on the past Zadar grandec. In the annex on the first floor there are four comfortable double rooms,

three standard and one deluxe. After the reconstruction, the rooms were opened in 2018, and they were named and themed after Zadar’s great intellectualss, publishers and artists, Battarama, Brkan, Burat and, of course, Bianchini. As with the landscaping in Almayer, respect for heritage and the use of organic materials were an imperative. The humanity of natural materials has been encompassed by new hardwood oak parquets in the form of French embroidery and new wooden exterior carpentry, tailor made for large antique door openings and windows. The space is dominated by an intellectual blue, and green colour, a reflection of the lush vegetation of the nearby park, on the large glass walls of the bathrooms. The high ceilings are fringed with stucco, Wolfgang Brenner’s paintings, a selection of antique and designer furniture and individual details, deriving from times long gone. The space is given a graphic abstractness by the ceramic tiles designed in the London studio Barber & Osgerby. With their distinctly geometric and figurative arrangement of colour shades, they enabled the bathrooms to come to life with the rhythm and communication of other architectural elements, primarily with the lighting of the Croatian design studio Grupa, and graphics by Teo Perić and paintings by Wolfgang Brenner.

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Colourful summer 20

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National Park UNA

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eople from all over the world come to the natural chambers of National Park Una because of its indescribable beauty, and to experience the true power and magic of natural laws. They consider it heaven for fans of active tourism, nature and adrenaline. You can explore every corner of the 19.800 hectars of the park by walking, biking, or going down the Una river in a boat or kayak. In front of the entrance to the first larger canyon, the river Una descends down the magnificent Štrbački buk – the highest and most spectacular waterfall in the national park. Martin brod falls, the waterfall of Milančev buk, and many other falls, cascades and pools, will contribute to this natural gem being inscribed in the UNESCO World Natural Heritage Register. Each year, a popular international tourist-sport manifestation Una Regata is held in the park, gathering a large number of domestic guests and visitors from all over the world. There are many other interesting events that are a must see. So, head out as soon as possible in order to enjoy the beauties and sights of NP Una.

Bosanska 17D, 77 000 Bihać, BiH; Tel: +387 37 221 528 www.nationalpark-una.ba | www.facebook.com/UNA.nacionalni.park


Green Heart of Lika


“I had a strange feeling whenever I took a deep breath. Whenever I breathed deeply, I was overcome by a feeling of lightness, as if my body had lost all its weight and was able to fly through the air merely by its will to do so.� Nikola Tesla THIS PAGE: LARGE PHOTOGRAPH: kayaking on the river Gacka; SMALL PHOTOGRAPHS: grazing lambs; details from a folklore costume from Lika; one of hundreds of different butterflies; roasted lamb under the bell (peka)


In Lika everything is in the sign of the bear, you can stay at a resort with a “bear name”, or experience the most beautiful aerial view on the zip-line. Watch out bear!

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text: DAMJANA DOMANOVAC photographs: JAN SERDAR, TOMISLAV SERDAR

alf way between the Croatian capital and the coast, sheltered by the Velebit from the sea side, lies a region where you can find more plants and animals than humans. Even though demographically this sounds bad, this fact is especially attractive to the „new normal“ of today’s time, when we are ready to substitute going to crowded events with going to nature with our circle of friends and family. Lika is ideal, especially for smaller groups that put the emphasis on untouched nature and experience. In Lika you can experience a lot of things. ADVENTURE FOR ALL Let’s start from the adrenaline offer that has become more popular in the last few years. After your morning coffee and big breakfast (you will most likely find well known cheese from the region škripavac and basa, homemade cheese pie and bread made from flour from the nearby mill on the river Gacka), seek refreshment from the summer heat on the crystal clear waters of the river Gacka. You will experience the real beauty of this river in clean canoes that you can rent in the village of Prozor, near the town of Otočac (www.velebit.info). The morning row will substitute your exercise routine and the cool fresh air will help clear your mind. Your eyes are the sense that will enjoy this the most, because the view of the underwater greenery of the river Gacka is truely unique ‒ sods of water grass move to the rythmn of the river flow, which is „run“ by a breeze going down

the surrounding mountains. Fish swim between the grass; the smaller ones are braver and go close to the boat, while the bigger ones hide deep between the rocks. When you have rowed under all the bridges and passed through all the villages on this river route, cool off with a quad ride within the hidden forest trails. THE BEST AERIAL VIEW If you have cooled down enough, you can warm up on the zip-line plateau at Beware of the Bear in Rudopolje (www.ziplineplitvice.com), where your Lika adventure will continue. Your body temperature will continue to raise your adrenaline in anticipation of your flight. Besides the fact that it is the longest zip-line In Europe, Beware of the Bear is specific because of the way your body will fly from the neighbouring hill. In a supine position with your head down, you will identify with the birds and completely let go in an unrestrained flight. If you are older than 18, you can drink a shot of encouragement in the form of homemade brandy. Children are afradi anyway! LUNCH TIME Where can you eat the best trout from the river Gacka? The answer is simple: on the Gacka spring. On the way to the Tonković Spring, stop by the Majer Spring, walk by the wooden mills and, instead of a Souvenir, buy some freshly ground flour for home. Homemade bread has entered everyone’s home during „corona“, that irresistible scent is guilty for


the extra pounds (and an additional reason to be physically active). On Tonković spring you can order trout in many ways: boiled, on the grill, or roasted in corn flour. You can also try trout soup. While you are waiting for your meal, take a walk by the river because it is always a few degrees cooler. Lamb lovers will not be left out in Lika. Lamb under peka from restaurant Ćamar in Gornja Dubrava is well known, so besides tourists you will be able to see local gourmets there as well. You will get potatoes from Lika with your lamb. A famous ingredient in these parts. You will be able to see it bloom in the surrounding fields not only on your plate. Most locals produce cheese and other dairy products so you will be able to see many cows and sheep grazing the surrounding pastures. Before returning you have to stop by and visit Runolist dairy in Otočac. COOL SUMMER EVENINGS After you spent the entire day enjoying various activities and copious meals, while the average temperature was a hot 30 degrees Celsius, what better way to spend the afternoon than by returning to you house at Big Bear Nature Resort. Sit on the terrace with a view of the forest and a glass of refreshing Velebit beer in your hand. While Lika slowly falls asleep, you will hear noises from the nearby forest ‒ the contrast to the silence that surrounds you. Big Bear Plitvice Nature Resort (www. plitvice-resort.com) has 100 accomodation units in mobile houses available, perfect for a comfortable weekend in a circle of friends and family. The location of the resort that is situated in Donji Babin Potok is interesting. It is 700 meters air line away from the National Park Plitvice, that is from its back side. Besides offering various different contents ‒ from their own resturant and souvenir shop, to outdoor fitness equipment ‒ in the resort they thought of not only offering the maximum comfort for their guests, but also about their occasional visitors by putting adorable little bird houses in front of each mobile home. This will especially cheer up the youngest guests, who also have a small park with the usual „climbing irons“ that they are used to, to make them feel at home. LEFT PAGE: FROM TOP TO BOTTOM: Adrenaline flight at zip-line center Beware the Bear; preparations for a zip-line flight; helmets are mandatory; falls in the National park Plitvica lakes; savage horses on the pastures of Lika; homemade bread under peka; unusual flower; THIS PAGE: FROM TOP TO BOTTOM: walk through Plitvica lakes; mills by the Mayer Spring; bird houses in front of every mobile home at the Big Bear Nature Resort; view of the lowlands from the final zip-line stop on Beware the Bear; aerial view from the Big Bear Nature Resort


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Freedom of nature 2

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1. Collection NEBO, dress Adrian, shop.nebo.hr 2. PHYRIS Aloha Face & Body Splash, www.grandel.com 3. House fragrance NOTES OF ZAGREB The Well of Life, “notesofzagreb.com 4. URBAN DECAY Lash Freak Mascara lengthens (by 40 %), lifts, and curls lashes for a dramatic, wide-eyed look and 3,6 times more volume, www.urbandecay.com 5. Kaftan PALMERS, www.palmers-shop.com 6. Necklace UTERQÜE, www.uterque.com 7. SUPER OLIVE Sun Oil SPF 4, olival.hr 8. Beach bag HAVAIANAS, www.havaianas.com 9. Jumpsuit MOHITO, www.mohito.com 10. Earrings RESERVED, www.reserved.com 11. Dress MASSIMO DUTTI, www.massimodutti.com 12. Straw hat & OTHER STORIES, www.stories.com 13. Radiant perfection skin-caring foundation DIORSKIN Forever Skin Glow, www.dior.com 14. Sunglasses MANGO, shop.mango.com 15. L’Erbolario Super-tanning Ointment with carrot, walnut hull and aloe, contains no filters, water resistant, www.lerbolario.com 16. Bathing suit PALMERS, www.palmers-shop.com 17. Bikini YAMAMAY, www.yamamay.com 18. Dress MOHITO, www.mohito.com 19. GARNIER Fructis Hair Food Nourishing Banana shampoo, conditioner and mask, www.garnier.in 20. YSL PURE SHOTS skincare: hydra bounce essence-in-lotion, perfect plumper face cream, 4 targeted solutions serums, all in a 100% recyclable packaging, www.ysl.com 21. Famous FranÇoise Sagan was presented to the world by a novel Hello Sadness. In 2018 it was adapted and masterfully illustrated by Frédéric Rébén.

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FJÄLLRÄVEN Classic TV

Nature in every home

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tinents such as Germany, the United Kingdom, China and South Korea. The reponse was incredible, and tickets for the aforementioned events were sold in record time. From the start 2020 proved to be extremly complicated in so many ways. Due to the Covid-19 virus Fjällräven had to cancel the Classic in Germany, Denmark, the United Kingdom, the United States, China and Sweden. Maybe the Fjällräven Classic events are cancelled, but nature isn’t. In these specific circumstances with the Covid-19 pandemic, the Swedish brand was forced to for a short time give up gathering nature fans on some of the world’s most beautiful trekking destinations, but they didn’t give up. They just changed the paradigm; instead of taking trekking enthusiasts to nature,

they decided to bring nature to them. This is how Fjällräven Classic TV began, experience unique virtual trekking first hand. It takes viewers from all over the world and digitally puts them on the locations of Fjällräven’s successful trekking events. This first episode took us to Germany, where on the 57th kilometer of a windy path we could see the fields, forests, ridges and lakes, hills and pastures of the beautiful region of Allgäu. The second episode took us through a 75 kilometer long Fjällräven Classic Denmark, that took place on part of the southern archipelago of Funen. Fjällräven Classic TV broadcasts the events and viewers can join for a few hours or for the entire trek, or follow on other Fjällräven social medias. No presenter, no superfluous words, simply pure nature.


Velebit Unique beauty and specific location, with three different climates, rich in flora and fauna, cover Velebit – heaven for nature and active vacation lovers text: JADRANKA APOSTOLOV photograph: NP VELEBIT, DAMJANA DOMANOVAC, ŽELJKA KRIŽNJAK, IVANA ŠTIMAC, MARCEL VUKOVIĆ


I’ve been watching it my whole life. I have gone over it, traveling to the sea, numerous times and always dreaded going on the winding old road to its bottom. That last ascent meant that we were close to the destination, and the descent down its slopes promised a lot of fear, but also that first view at the sea. Honestly, I don’t know if in my memory the ascent from my childhood was more memorable or the one today – driving through a 6 kilometer womb of a giant the tunel St. Rok. However, I most enjoyed looking at the Velebit mountain from my pier on the island of Pašman. Grey, rocky and bare, while clouds rolled over it and changed the weather. It didn’t attract me immediately…but all of a sudden, as usual, it all changed. The mountain and greenery have been calling me for some time now. BOTH PAGES: TOP: view of the islands in the Zadar Archipelago after successfully conquering the peak Debela kosa; BOTTOM: you can enjoy kayaking on Zrmanja, or rafting for those seeking more adrenaline; view of Tulove grede; all the routes on the Velebit are excellently marked; beautiful cove Zavratnica; the ascent of Kubus – monument on the Stara Vrata saddle to Baška Oštarija, on the bottom of Basača

I am a little confused with this fact because I have always dreamt about and enjoyed the blueness of the sea. However, this year for the first time I am ready to completely avoid the sea and enjoy myself solely in the mountains. I don’t think there is a better place for that then beautiful Velebit, the biggest protected area in Croatia. This beauty covers an area of 2,274 km2, has a total length of 145 km, and a width ranging from 10 to 30 km. Velebit should be explored from top to bottom, enjoy hiking on many well-marked trails. Theresian road, Majstorska (Master’s) road and Premužić trail, which connects the peak parts of Northern and Middle Velebit which are preserved as cultural goods of Croatia. Nature lovers will immensely enjoying passing by all the educational trails, and besides hiking, in some areas it is possible even on a horses back.



Velebit

Nature Park Velebit hides many natural beauties and protected areas. Zavratnica cove, Velnačka glavica, Cerovačke caves, canyons of the river Zrmanja and Krupa and a special reserve of forest vegetation Štirovača, just to name a few.

LEFT PAGE: BIG PHOTOGRAPH: Visočica; SMALL PHOTOGRAPH: flora and fauna of Velebit; THIS PAGE: TOP: hiker’s satisfaction after conquering the peak; BOTTOM LEFT: Cerovačke caves; MIDDLE: cascade on the river Zrmanja; DESNO: view on the river Krupa

Personally I don’t have any experience in sport climbing, so I will leave that to the more advanced people. I am more than happy just watching their ascents and stunts. It is definitely worth visiting the Cerovačka caves which are not only beautiful, but full of rich findings from the past, with one of the biggest findings of cave bears in Croatia. Unfortunately, they are closed at the moment due to the implementation of the project „Cerovačke caves – Center of Excellence“, whose completion is expected at the end of 2021. The entire area of Nature Park Velebit, the canyon rivers of Zrmanja and Krupe have been for centuries guarding many endemic species of flora and fauna. Among them are the Velebit degenia, the Horvath’s rock lizard, Croatian rock bells and the Dalmatian barbelgudgeon. Rafting, canoeing and sport fishing in clear and clean waters is a match made in heaven. I had only heard recently of the Zavratnica cove not far from Jablanac, across from the island of Rab, and I quickly realised that it was really a hidden gem and one of the most beautiful coves on our coast. It became a part of NATURA 2000 – ecological network made from places important for preserving endangered species and ha-

bitat types in the European Union, thanks to more than 129 plant species from which 100 are autochthonous. You can enjoy in them by walking on the upper trails, from the viewpoint or walkway right by the sea. There are more and more accomodation units on Velebit. Besides the mountain houses, dorms and hiking huts, you can find real little havens of beauty and mountain luxury. On Velebit you can enjoy in the real meaning of the word enjoy because it offers the best of nature. No matter how connected we are to moder life and technology, when we are surrounded by the beauties of nature, we are enchanted and brings back some long lost memories – we don’t need telephones, shopping centers and automobiles. We will realize that our feet, step by step, can take us to places of surreal beauty and that we don’t need anything besides a beautiful day, clean air, the people we love and a chance to rest in thick shade. Public Institution “Nature Park Velebit” Kaniža gospićka 4b, 53000 Gospić Office: 053 560 455 / velebit@pp-velebit.hr www.pp-velebit.hr 97

P L ACE 2 GO


© Davor Šarić

Magnificent text and photographs: NATIONAL PARK KRKA

A walk by the river Krka is a chance to meet the millenial coexistance of nature and man, rugged karst and restless water. For those that love to be active in nature, the park has 22 trails, with a total of 47 km, as well as 5 magnicifent viewpoints and a 470 km bike path. Visitors can also go on boat trips on the emerald green canyon of the Krka.

© Lucija & Rade Jug

THIS PAGE: TOP: Visovac and gorge „Među gredama“; BOTTOM: Burnum; RIGHT PAGE: TOP: confluence of Krka and Čikola; MIDDLE LEFT: swans; UNDER: Ključica fortress; MIDDLE RIGHT: Oziđana cave ; BOTTOM: Skradinski buk waterfalls


MUST SEE A diverse and picturesque flora and fauna can be found in the river Krka, thanks to is geographical position and large number of different habitats. The Oziđana cave is amongst the caves and pits in the Park that stand out. The prehistoric location above the magical cascades of the Roški waterfall (Ogrlica), to which 517 wooden stairs lead you against a steep rock. An archeological collection i sin the cave in situ. The water mill complex on Roški waterfall is the most attractive ethnographic locality of the Dalmatian hinterland. On the banks of the Krka there are also valuable cultural and historical monuments and archaeological sites. None of the four rivers in Dalmatia have as many fortresses on their banks as the river Krka has, and that along its entire course. Remains of the Burnum, Roman military camp built on the transition from the old to the new era, located right above Manojlovački falls, the highest on Krka. The arches of the command building and remains of the amphiteater have been preserved, along with an abudance of archeological material exhibited in the Archeological Burnum Collection, in the Puljane Eco Campus. The river Krka has its falls arranged down the entire course, so that individual locations are a few kilometers away from each other seperated by natural barriers. You can go move around the Park by car, bike or boat. You have 10 different possibilities available for your itinerary. The tour can even last up to a few days, for the whole Park experience you can get a multi-day pass. You can use the information brochure of the official park page to help you with planning your stay.

© Mario Romulić I Dražen Stojčić

© Lucija & Rade Jug © Darvor Šarić

NATIONAL PARK National Park Krka is located in the Šibenik-Knin County region, in the immediate vicinity of the A1 motorway. On the Skradin - Šibenik section of the motorway there are two exits, after which you have a five to ten minute drive to the entrance of the National Park. Actually, wherever you go, Krka is close. Krka is a karst river that never dries out. Its sun-kissed rocky canyons, have up to 500 000 l of water go over them in seconds, which is truly admirable. The same is with travertine, the basic phenomenon of the Park, which builds the falls and on which rests the entire living world of the river Krka. The biggest and richest waterfall on the Krka is Skradinski buk, which is at the same time the longest European travertine barrier. You can explore it by walking on the circular network of paths and bridges, next to which is a set of mills and an ethnographic collection. You can see the remains of the hydroelectric power plant which was the first one in the world to lighten up a city back in 1895. Krka is a lake river for a large part of its course. Its valleys ly on marley soil making them greener. Spiritual centers can be found on such parts of the course: Franciscan monastry with the church Our Lady of Grace on the islet of Visovac, widely known picture of the Park, and the monastry of Holy Archangel Carigradska draga, an important spiritual center of the Dalmatian Orthodox eparchy. These temples contain in their centuries old treasury valuable artistic and historical pieces that can also be seen.

© Lucija & Rade Jug

The source itself, 3,5 km from Knin, is a natural phenomenon. Krk’s first tributary Topoljski buk flows into the Krčić. The mouth of the river is in the Šibenik bay, by St. Nicholas’ Fortress, where the Krka flows the surface of the sea, and between, on 109 km², it stretches to National Park Krka which includes the most beautiful part of the Krka river and the bottom part of the Čikola river, its biggest tributary.

© Lucija & Rade Jug

Bilušića buk, Brljan, Manojlovac, Rošnjak, Miljacka slap, Roški waterfall and Skradinski buk – are all travertine falls of the Krka, A temperamental river that is constantly changing from source to mouth


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1. Fragrance NARCISO RODRIGUEZ Ambrée EdP 2. NEBO, dress Adrian, shop.nebo.hr 3. Bikini MANGO, shop.mango.com 4. EISENBERG Sublime Tan S.O.S. After Sun Mask Face & Body calms the sensation of burning and delivers an overall feeling of wellbeing to the skin. Sublime Tan After Sun Anti-Ageing Facial Care regenerates and soothes intensely and helps protect the youthful appearance of the skin. www.eisenberg.com 5. NIVEA Fresh Blends Apricot Refreshing Shower Cream, NIVEA Fresh Orange anti-perspirant, www.nivea.com 6. Flip-flops HAVAIANAS, www.havaianas.com 7. Collection BOUDOIR, www.boudoir.hr; photograph: Matkovic x Vild 8. Eucerin Sun Gel-Cream Dry Touch Sensitive Protect SPF 50+ absorbs quickly leaving 0% residue and an immediate dry touch finish. EUCERIN Sun Allergy Protect Gel-Cream SPF 50+ protects against sun allergies and sun-induced skin damage. EUCERIN Sun Fluid Photoaging Control SPF 50 helps prevent photoaging and visibly reduces wrinkles. int.eucerin.com 9. L’Erbolario Sun Oil Tan Accelerator Face & Body SPF 15 prote.cts while facilitating an intense, golden colour. L’Erbolario Shining Oil For Body, Face and Hair contains argan oil and golden particles, www.lerbolario.hr 10. Purse NEXT, www.next.co.uk 11. Coat GUESS, www.guess.eu 12. YVES SAINT LAURENT Rouge Pur Couture, www.ysl.com 13. DIOR Forever Skin Correct Concealer, www.dior.com 14. Earrings MOHITO, www.mohito.com 15. Dress MANGO, shop.mango.com 16. EAU THERMALE AVÈNE B-Protect SPF 50+ sun protection for sensitive skin, www.eau-thermale-avene.com 17. Slides DUNE, www.dunelondon.com 18. KIEHL’S Powerful-Strength Line-Reducing and Dark Circle Diminishing Vitamin C Eye Serum, www.kiehls.com 19. Dress SISLEY, www.sisley.com 20. Bracelet MANGO, shop.mango.com 21. Belt DUNE, www.dunelondon.com 22. PHYRIS Aloha Body Lotion, www.grandel.com

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A whiff of luxury made in Croatia

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he soft, silky touch and shiny satin surface give a whiff of luxury to just about every bed and space. Elegance that the satin linens emanate are meant for people who want to give their space charm entwined with purity and simplicity. Satin linens take first place when choosing linens because of its positive characteristic. Iti s extremely comfotable for sleeping and durable throughout the whole year making it an excellent choice for hotels, boutique hotels, apartments, villas, boats and of course homes. Recognizing the need for high quality and the feeling of luxury Intertekstil Stanić has been for 25 years creating and introducing trends, working on the comfort and elegance of materials It offers many different types of materials and patterns. It produces primarily cotton satin that is made from 100 percent of the finest cotton. Bohemians and hedonists, as well as artistic souls, will enjoy designs with roses and spheres, while minimalists will fall asleep on smooth satin, without any patterns, choosing the colour in accordance to their taste. Satin stripes are an excellent choice, for those that love the classics. The individuality of each project can be distinguished with a personalized logo, Individualnost svakog projekta moŞete istaknuti personaliziranim logom, woven with thread into the fabric. Our expert designer team is here to help you make your idea become a reality.

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camps

ON THE ADRIATIC


Olivia G reen Camping

Olivia Green Camping is situated in Tisno, on a gentle slope overlooking the southwest, which lets you enjoy the sun all day and see unforgettable sunsets. The isolated location ensures a quiet and relaxing holiday, the type you need and deserve. Besides spacious camping parcels it offers accommodation in new, luxurious eco camping villas. The animation team takes care of your youngest, for adults they also have various exercises, such as yoga which will help you start or finish the day in the best way possible. They also offer various trips and activities. The most popular include visiting NP Krka or NP Kornati, zipline over the canyon on the ÄŒikola river, jeep safari that will take you to hidden corners and the beauties of the Dalmatian hinterland. Olivia Green Camping will plant a tree in co-operation with the Eden Reforestation Project a non-profit organization, in the name of each guest for every reservation made. This organization has already planted 345 million trees up until July, 2020. Experience an unforgettable vacation in the heart of Dalmatia! oliviagreencamping.com

I remember going camping as a child. When a piece of land was enough, possible in the deep shade. Today camping is much more than that. Top-notch facilities and service, luxurious gastronomic offer, a number of attractive sports facilities and activities for the whole family, and much more, it is also located in enchanting places full of beauty, peace and coexistence with nature. prepared by: JADRANKA APOSTOLOV photographs: ARCHIVES PLACE2GO


Camping Village Šimuni

© Bojan Kabaj

© Bojan Kabaj

Spacious, crystal blue sea, sandy coves and 2500 sunny hours – Camping village Šimuni is the ideal place for a relaxing holiday on the Mediterranean! From March to October this is a popular place for camping enthusiasts and fans of untouched nature. The camp has won numerous awards. It has 5 ADAC stars, a “Superplatz” mark, and is an excellent destination for families with small children. What to choose? A spacious piece of land for a tent or a caravan? Bungalow or modern mobile home with the latest equipment, beautiful terrace and a view of the sea? You can’t go wrong, whatever you choose! The charm that this place breathes, and the spacious luxury it offers, is only a walk away to the beach. Modern sanitary facilities, fresh sea air and golden sandy pebble beaches with the crystal clean sea are recognizable characteristics of camp Šimuni. We have excellent news for gourmets as well! On more than 7 different locations healthy Mediterannean cuisine is prepared, with a lot of fish and meat delicacies, along with homemade ice cream and various types of “peka“. Camp Šimuni is well known for an excellent sports and entertainment program from children and adults. It has an aquapark, sailing and diving center, beach volleyball and tennis courts, boat rentals and many other contents. Of course, you can just relax on the beautiful beach, enjoy the sun and simply “chill”! www.camping-simuni.hr


Life in the rhythm of nature is a chance for an active vacation, adventure sports, and pleasure in a relaxing atmosphere. Natural beauty, Mediterranean climate and a wealthy tradition, excellent traffic connections and unforgettable vacation in an authentic surrounding, are just some of the reasons why you should visit the island of Krk and the luxurious 5-star camp in Omišalj. Awarded the prestigious ADAC Superplatz award, the camp has for three years in a row been a synonym for an ideal place to spend a luxurious vacation in nature. It is located right by the sea shore, not far from the historical town of Omišalj, in the peaceful yet historical cove of Pušća. Modernly decorated mobile homes provide a feeling of home, and each plot is equipped in accordance with the highest standards. A lot of the parcels are situated close to the sea due to the camps geographical position. The entire sandypebble beach has Blue flags flying down it – a symbol of the purity of the sea. Restaurant Maris is located on a beautiful location by the pool and beach, a real gastronomic oasis, where all your senses will enjoy in the charms of the Mediterranean cuisine. There is a pool bar by the restaurant, where you can enjoy a coffee or a cocktail during the day and spend the recreational part of your holiday in a pleasant way in the company of animators, with a multitude of sports facilities. Forget about all your worries and make great memories at camp Omišalj! www.campingomisalj.com

Kamp Omišalj


© Walter Luttenberger Photography

Falkensteiner

© Walter Luttenberger Photography © Walter Luttenberger Photography

© Walter Luttenberger Photography

P remium Camping Zadar

Luxury camping has in the last few years become a global trend. In these challenging times it is the perfect answer for the growing need to return to nature. Modern man, because of his stressful way of life, more than ever before needs peace, that is moments when he can just stop and slow down, take a break and go into nature. Falkensteiner Premium Camping in Zadar offers all this. It is the only 5-star camp in Dalmatia. Besides its sophisticated design, the camp has a private beach, excellent cuisine, its own wellness, unrestrained nature, all just a short walk away from the city center. The camp offers the beauty and splendor of a luxurious coexistence with nature in 365 spacious and full equipped units, from which 87 are mobile homes and 13 are glamping tents, designed in accordance with sustainable development. The mobile home will thrill you with its design. Glamour Premium Home has fully equipped kitchens and terraces for relaxing moments, with a special combination of glamour and camping. The exclusive location within a closed resort, as well as the highest standards and regulations for a safe and comfortable vacation, guarantee that you will spend the perfect summer in this luxury camping destination. www.falkensteiner.com/premium-camping-zadar/


Istra P remium Camping Resort 5* by Valamar

The new Istria Premium Camping Resort shines like a gem on the romantic peninsula surrounded by islands, not far from Poreč. Immersed in the sea near a small marina and the village of Funtana, this first-class camping resort provides a sense of peace. Whether you want to camp on an attractive parcel by the sea, in a premium camping home, a camping chalet, a modern camping apartment, a premium camping villa with a jacuzzi, a deluxe camping villa with a private pool or in a glamping tent, you have a wise range of content and services available to fulfill your family vacation. From immaculately arranged beaches and the unique Aquamar Water Park, across carefully tailored programs and content for children, parents and guests looking for a good time, to gastro experiences - everything is ready for an unforgettable camping experience. www.camping-adriatic.com © Sgfd.o.o

Medora Orbis campsite is situated in Podgora, in the heart of Makarska Riviera. This campsite filled with greenery is designed for modern travellers, and brings together all amenities and services you want and need during your holiday. Comfortable, new and modern equipped mobile homes at Medora Orbis Campsite will provide you with all the charm of traditional camping complemented with all conveniences. All mobile homes have a covered terrace with outdoor furniture, air conditioning device, bathrooms, living room and kitchen. Some of them also have a private heated pool with sunbathing area and sundecks. In a unique and unrepeatable glamping units surrounded by fascinating contrasts of Podgora nature you will finally get a great night's sleep, thanks to comfortable spherical tents. Your everyday life will be filled with idyllic gatherings in fully equipped covered terrace with kitchen and bathroom. You can park your house on wheels on a stateof-the-art Medora Orbis pitch. Next to the common areas with a covered barbecue there is a dishwashing area and modern sanitary facilities. At Medora Orbis campsite you will be inspired by mighty Biokovo peaks and numerous ships sailing along towards beautiful Adriatic islands. www.medorahotels.com

© Sgfd.o.o

© Sgfd.o.o

Medora Orbis Campsite


Kamp Straško Camp Straško is located on a long pebble cove near Novalja, one of the largest, but also leading camps on the Adriatic. It offers a multitude of content for an active holiday, and spreads over 57 hectares of Dalmatian oak and olive trees. It is crowned with a beautiful beach that has a Blue flag flying high and the crystal blue sea with the magical ambience of the island of Pag. It is the ideal destination for people desiring a luxurious natural environment. It is made in accordance with the highest ADAC standards and is equipped with connections for water, drainage, electricity and SAT-TV. Spacious parcels in camp Straško are an ideal place to stay in nature. Enjoy an authentic gastro experience on the spacious terrace restaurant, with the discreet sound of music. There are beach bars along the beach where you can drink your morning coffee with the sound of the sea in the background, and during the day refresh yourself with a cocktail of your choice. We will provide an unforgettable vacation for guests of all ages with our animation and sports facilities, swimming pool complex, children’s playrooms, outdoor cinema and a mini farm with local animals. Experience incredible sunsets, enjoying movie night, indulge in delicious Dalmatian culinary specialties, or simply enjoy the untouched nature of the island of Pag! www.campingstrasko.com


© Sgfd.o.o

© Sgfd.o.o

Aminess Maravea Camping Resort is located on the Istrian coast, close to the hilly plantations of vines and olives. It was proclaimed the best Croatian camp in 2019. It is big enough that you won’t miss anything and small enough for a true carefree vacation. Its carefully designed concept includes a series of thematic villages, with contents adjusted for families with children, couples, fans of silence and those that love to camp under the stars. You are only a ten-minute bike or train ride away from Novigrad and only a few steps away from the beach. Amber Sea Luxury Village is the perfect place to enjoy an entire day in peace and privacy. This unique and exclusive village with luxurious houses is located in the first row to the sea. Here you can relax by the pool, on your spacious terrace or on the nearby beach. MIRAMÌ Family Village is a unique village concept, totally tailor-made for children, because it offers everything that you could wish for by the sea – sea, pool, playground for the new generation, all day animation and educational installations, thanks to which they learn through games. A special Aminess Clean & Safe stay program is implemented in this unique camping resort. It was created so that guests can feel safe and relaxed and spend their time just the way they imagined. www.aminess-campsites.com

© Sgfd.o.o

Aminess Maravea Camping Resort


Camping ParkUmag

PORT 9 resort is located in the vicinity of Old town Korčula, in beautiful Shell Bay, only 3 kilometers from the town center. It is also a part of camp Port 9, which is located by the beautiful sandy beach, ideal for families with children. A variety of sports activities, such as tennis, bicycling, canoeing, mini-golf and table tennis, will fulfill all the wishes and expectations of the guests hungry for some adventure and fun. The camp is surrounded with olive trees and a pine forest, and covers an area of 3 hectares. The rich gastronomic offer of the resort includes 7 restaurants and bars and is based on the millennial tradition of Korčula cuisine. Commitment to details is what determines this resort. It is surrounded with 150 olive trees from which they make homemade olive oil, and a garden with spices that are an integral part of every dish. www.port9resort.com

The award winning 4-star camp is located near Umag. It is the ideal choice for guests who want to spend their vacation in Mediterranean greenery, right by the sea, not giving up comfort and topnotch content. Here you can find all the advantages of camping – untouched nature, numerous activities and a beach nearby. Guests in the camp in 2020 can enjoy a new pool complex, which has a total of over 1700 m² of water area, restaurant and sun decks, making it one of the biggest in the camps of Istria! The camp offers accommodation in the new Premium mobile homes, and in some of them you will be able to truly enjoy yourself and relax in a private pool. If you love glamping, the expanded area meant for this type of vacation with additional luxurious tents will delight you. Camping Park Umag is the ideal place for a carefree family adventure! www.istracamping.com

Kamp Port 9


Luksuzni šatori

Najam i prodaja kampera

Oprema za kampiranje

Predšatori za kamp vozila

Najam i prodaja šatorskih prikolica

Šatori


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KORÄŒULA HILL

timeless Mediterranean beauty

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ll the comforts of your own home combined with modern design, a spacious interior and excellent service is waiting for you in this five star luxury resort. Luxury apartments KorÄ?ula Hill will fulfill all your needs. Apartments with two or three bedrooms, a total of 85 to 165 square meters of residential space just for you. The apartments have an outer terrace and balcony, which offers a panoramic view of the gardens and the blue Adriatic – perfect for enjoying a family dinner while watching the sunset over the islands. Modern interior, porculain floors and comfotable furniture, each apartment has been carefully de signed and entirely equipped for all the needs of a modern traveller, with the inevitable Mediterranean atmosphere. Relax on your private terrace and enjoy the view of the Adriatic and the PeljeĹĄac peninsula. Besides that, the resort location is perfect for descovering the many beauties of KorÄ?ula – one of the most beautiful and most interesting Croatian islands. Hidden coves, typical island towns, perfect food and excellent wine‌all at your fingertips! ,PSÄłVMB )JMM 3FTPSU t ÇSOPWTLB CBOKB

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Brač the island of culture and adventure

text: ALMA RADOŠ photographs: TB SUPETAR, TB BOL, TB SUTIVAN, TB POSTIRA, TB SELCA, TB MILNA, MUNICIPALITY PUČIŠĆA AND MUNICIPALITY NEREŽIŠĆA

© TB Selca

Business Insider ranked it in late May amongst the world’s most beautiful islands. Brac is an island of stone, olives and olive oil, the most beautiful beaches and nature that invites you for a walk, but also an island of culture and adventure.


“Zora” Beach, Sumartin


© TB Postira

© Sanja Grgić Ćurić

© TB Sutivan | Hrvoje Gabrić

© TB Postira

It is close to Split, and it is the biggest island in Dalmatia and the highest out of all the Adriatic islands. Most will first encounter Supetar. This summer all paths lead to Brač!


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he closest island to Split, where it will see that time passes slowly and stress is a total s t r a n g e r, a great choice for your summer holiday if you want to experience the true Dalmatian atmosphere, relax to your heart’s content on a magical beach, enjoy the island cuisine, discover rich cultural heritage or – if you are an athlete – spend an active holiday to remember. It will be love at first sight. You will fall in love with Brač already when sailing into Supetar, the only city on the island that has the soul of a small village. You will easily fit into

Brač

this ambience, by walking by the Supetar seafront, and drinking your favourite drink in one of the local cafes will become your daily ritual. It is difficult to resist the rhythm of the streets of Supetar, where you will discover the rich history, unique architecture and the beauty of the Brač stone. Ivan Rendić, world renowned sculptor, lived in the historical part of town. One out of the three attractive Supetar thematic trails is dedicated to him. It is an ideal choice for art lovers. You will enjoy every step you take from the monument dedicated to him on the Split seafront, his birth house, parish church and church museums, and the symbol of Supetar - Leroj tower, an early Christian mosaic, to the town beach Banj.

SUMMER ON THE MOST BEAUTIFUL BEACHES

If you are a fan of swimming and sunbathing and love to enjoy every moment spent at the sea, Brač is your island. Zlatni rat (Golden Horn) on Bol, is the most famous beach on Brač and definitely one of the most beautiful in the world. The island is packed with tons of beautiful places made for enjoying the summer. Between Postira and Pučišća, in the Lovrečina cove, you will find a sandy beach with the same name, one of the most attractive ones on the island. In Sumartin you have Zora and Rasotica, in Milni Bjaka and Vlaška, in Sutivan Bistrica, Bunta, Grgina luka, Grlica, Likva, Lučica, Majakovac and Tatinja, in Splitj Zastup, and in Supetar Babin Laz, Banj, Tri mosta, Vlačica, Bili rat… After

© TB Supetra

© TB Supetra | www.123rf.com

LEFT SIDE: BIG PHOTOGRAPH: Sutivan or how the locals call it – Stivan; IN THE FRAME: TOP: local and seasonal is the tastiest; BOTTOM: the island of Brač is the biggest olive region in Croatia, Postira is the proud host of the World Championships in Olive Picking; RIGHT: cake from Dol “Hrapoćuša”, a gastronomic diamond of the island of Brač, its preparation is on the list of intangible cultural heritage of the REPUBLIC OF CROATIA RIGHT PAGE: TOP: LEFT: Mausoleum of the Petrinović family at the cemetary in Supetar, work by Toma Rosandić (in the background) and (left) Mausoleum of Rinaldo Čulić, work of the father of modern Croatian statuary, Supertar’s local, Ivan Rendić; RIGHT: Plavac mali is the most widespread grapevine variety on the island of Brač; BOTTOM: LEFT: fig, the sweetest natural summer dessert; RIGHT: Blaca desert, the monumental Glagolitic monastery from the 16th century is a must see when visiting the island of Brač

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© TB Selca

you find “your” hidden cove, which Brač is filled with, you will discover why summer is the best season in the year. TUSCANY OF BRAČ The picturesque villages of Brač are stone oases which attract you with their beauty, peace and silence. If you are seeking a vacation far away from unwanted eyes, and a perfect combination of a rural ambience and luxury, we suggest one of the rural villas in the inland ‒ in Dračevica, Gornji or Donji Humac, Nerežišće or Škripa. The latter is the

© Sanja Grgić Ćurić

oldest place on Brač, which has two museums that you have to visit. In the Museum of the Island of Brač, arranged in the beautiful Radojković Palace from the 16th century, among other things you will find out how the locals believe that the wife and daughter of Emperor Diocletian were buried here and that the mother of the Roman Emperor Constantine was born in Škripa. In the Oil Museum you will find out that Brač, with a million olive trees is the largest oil area in Croatia, with world- famous oils and protected geographical origin.

© TB Milna

© Damjana Domanovac

Island of culture and Adventure, heaven for gourmets – this is how to describe Brač in a few words!


unique Brač menu: vitalac is the most famous specialty on the island, it is made with lamb (sometimes goat) innards; butalac is stuffed lamb’s leg; procip is young goat cheese with caramel; hmutica is a Brač mixture of wine and milk from, and cake from Dol hrapoćuša is the tastiest nut cake you have ever tried, and you can only find it on Brač. For an appetizer, we recommend a few drops of top-quality, Brač olive oil with freshly baked bread, without olive oil there wouldn’t be the famous Brač honey cake the medenjak. The only thing missing for the complete gourmet experience

is a glass of Plavac or Pošip from famous and awarded winning island wineries – Senjković from Nerežišće, Baković from Murvice or Stine from Bol. Cheers! BOTH PAGES: TOP IN ORDER: natural beauty of Brač; earlychristian basilica St. John in Povlja; View of the sea from the beautiful Supetar port; Church of St. Peter, Nerežišće; Pučišća, according to many world magazines, one of the most beautiful European cities; BOTTOM IN ORDER: Ložišća, a masterpiece of Brač island architecture, dominated by a sumptuous bell tower, the work of the great Ivan Rendić; riding on one of a dozen Brač cyclist trails is a true pleasure; Milna, a dreamy beauty on the west side of the island of Brač, a safe port for all sailing fans

© TB Milna

A GOURMET OASIS There is no philosophy here, the locals will modestly say, masters of Mediterranean cuisine. A drop of Brač’s olive oil, sea grain salt and a glass of wine are the secret to longevity, a true revelation to real gourmets On Brač you will enjoy swiss chard, beans, peas (local name biži), seasonal salads, and freshly caught fish and seafood, but also the finest kroštule (angel wings) and rožata (custard pudding). But the island is also well known for its delicious lamb and other specialties that you will taste only there. Here’s a brief guide through the

© Općina Pučišća

© Općina Nerežišća

© TB Supetra | www.123rf.com


THREE TOP ISLAND ATTRACTIONS

Vidova gora is a real challenge for hikers, athletes and recreationalists. St. Vid and its 778 meters high peak, the highest peak on Adriatic islands, offers a million-dollar view on a nice day, all the way to Italy. If being in shape is not your stronger side, don’t worry - you can reach the top of the mountain by car. But no means of transportation will help you visit one of the largest attractions on Brač, only a macadam road leads to the Blaca desert. Built on a steep cliff between Murvica and Milna,

Modern apartment estates, hotels, rural villas and camps – big choice, affordable prices

© TB Supetra | Bluesunhotels d.d.

© Damjana Domanovac © TB Bol

© TB Selca

it used to be shelter for Poljica priests and hermits, who fled from the Turks in the 16th century. On site of a stone-enclosed cave, hermits built a church, a monastery, residential buildings and basement, and arranged a small observatory and a library where manuscripts are kept in Poljica (Croatian Cyrillic). Up until 1963, when the last priest don Nikola Miličević passed away, the Blaca desert was the centre of Brač culture. The steep trail from Murvica goes down to Dragon’s cave, with unusual reliefs of Glagolitic priests who lived there in the 15th century.

© TB Milna

© TB Sutivan

© Damjana Domanovac

© TB Postira

THE STORY OF BRAČ STONE It is appreciated by both builders, artists and architects. Masterpieces have been created in Brač stone by world-famous sculptors, and the School of Masonry in Pučišća, with its 110 year- long tradition has raised many generations of artists. The island has always been famous for its quality and beauty, and strong stonemasons, skilled stonemasons and top masters. Not far from Škrip are three abandoned imperial quarries of ancient Rome, from which stone was extracted for the construction of Diocletian’s Palace in Split. One of them – Rasoha leads a thematic


trail from Splitska, ideal for those who like silence and enjoying the beauty of the Brač landscape. It was named after Hercules, the Peloponesian hero, son of Zeus and commoner Alcmene. His mythical strength was extremely appreciated by the stone pickers, the relief of this demogod is carved into a rock into a quarry rock. Two more reliefs of Hercules are kept in the Museum of the island of Brač in Škrip.

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Via Brattia

VIA BRATTIA TRAIL AROUND BRAČ – A CHALLENGE FOR ADVENTURERS Brač will soon receive its own type of promenade, a new circular hiking-touristic trail, 135 kilometers long, which will connect 12 of the most attractive historical locations and most coastal places with the island. Via Brattia will be chosen by recreational and hikers, but real adventure seekers will look for new experiences. Next to the churches of St. Spyridon not far from Sutivan and St. Martin above Bobovišća, Blaca desert, the Dominican monastery in Bol and Franciscan in Sumartin, the basilica of St. Ivana, Lovrečina bay with the remains of the Basilica of St. Lawrence and Mirja above Postira, on the longest tourist trail of Brač which will also include the Dragon’s Cave near Murvica, Podsmrčevik, one of the five rural hamlets, the Stonemason’s School in Pučišća and the Museum of the Island of Brač in Škrip. In order to see all 12 of the remarkable locations on Via Brattia, you will pass through most of the places on Brač – from the most famous tourist centers, such as Supetar, Milna and Bol to ambient places such as Mirca or Ložišća, and the most beautiful cove – Smrka, Farska, Rasotica and Lovrečina. In whichever place you spend your summer, you can join this trail and enjoy in the beauties of the island.

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LEFT PAGE: CLOCKWISE: beautiful beach Zlatni rat on Bou, unique in the entire world; view of Zlatni rat from the “deep shade”; Dominican monastery on Bol; cape Ražanj, the most western point on the island of Brač; pulling Mrduje, a unique maritime “battle” between Brač and Šolta for the islet Mrduja; former mill family Ilić beside the “Bunta” beach in Sutivan; blackberries by field roads are a special summer treat; Postira, native port of the great Croatian poet Vladimir Nazor

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Earthquakes New beginning

text: DAMJANA DOMANOVAC photographs: MINISTRY OF CULTURE, PHOTOGRAPHS FROM THE CONSERVATION DEPARTMENT IN DUBROVNIK MINISTRY OF CULTURE, DAVOR TRUPKOVIĆ, TATJANA HORVATIĆ

What are earthquakes? Science would define them as „sudden and short vibrations of the earth, caused by rocks collapsing (collapsing earthquakes), magma activity (vulcanic earthquakes) or tectonic disturbances (tectonic earthquake) in the lithosphere, and partly in the „Earth’s mantle”. Our human perception defines them as the movements of everything around us, followed by awkward sounds from the depths of the Earth. Croatia is located on a seismically active territory and is part of the Mediterranean Transasian Belt. There is a distinction between two seismic zones: a coastal area and a northwestern continental part. The coastal zone, with minor break ups, expands all the way from the border with Slovenia to Dubrovnik. Earthquakes occur in that area by underlining the Adriatic platform under the Dinarids. The second zone, the one in the northwestern part of Croatia, spreads from the border with Slovenia, west of Karlovac, over the Žumberak Mountains and Medvednice, all the way to Kalnik and Bilogora, and joins the belt with Pokuplje on the territory of Zagreb. We can say that earthquakes are in this part of the country a result of the movement of the Dinarids and the Alps. Recently in Croatia, we experienced the biggest earthquake in the last 140 years. The early spring morning of March 22nd, 2020 at 6:24 a.m. Zagreb felt all the strength of 5.5 degrees on the Richter scale. After the first, followed another one, somewhat weaker, and as if that weren’t enough snowflakes covered the awakened citizens. Many postwar „beauties“ of the city, older than 100, collapsed, and their decorated facades lost all their decorations and sculptures. That morning Zagreb looked like a backdrop from some Hollywood catastrophe movie, and its scared citizens were the credible actors, deprived of acting. The earthquake itself wasn’t as traumatic as was the anticipation of the small tremours which have been continuing to this day. The Zagreb Cathedral was hit the most. It lost the top of the right tower, while the left was seperated from the base for restoration weeks after by a controlled explosion. Other churches and cultural facilities were also damaged. Some of the worst were the church i Palmotićeva street, the Museum of Arts and Crafts, the State Archives, many palaces

RIGHT PAGE: TOP LEFT: church St. Francis of Assissi on Kaptol; TOP RIGHT: building of the Croatian Conservation Institute; MIDDLE LEFT: building of the Croatian State Archive; MIDDLE: the church of St. Catherine in Zagreb; BOTTOM LEFT: Croatian State Archive; BOTTOM RIGHT: Basilica of the Sacred Heart of Jesus in Palmotićeva street



One of the innate human fears if that of the earthquake. The reason is very simple – it i sin a category of things that we can’t infleunce or foresee, and we depend exclusively on the mercy of nature prirode

ALL PHOTOGRAPHS: Zagreb Cathedral


it is located ( as is Zagreb County) on a seismic active area (VIII to IX degrees MCS Mercalli–Cancani–Sieberg), which means that earthquakes of a destructive power can occur in this area. The oldest mentioned earthquake in Zagreb occured on March 26th, 1502, when the tower of St. Mark’s church collapsed; it is believed that is was VIII degress on the MCS scale. The earthquake in Slovenia in 1511 caused damages to Zagreb and the one from 1590 severly damaged Medvedgrad, which collapsed after the next earthquake of 1699 (when the epicenter was in Slovenia as well). The Great Earthquake (as they call it), VIII degrees on the MCS, that is 6,3 on the Richter scale, whose epicenter was on Medvednica, caused panic amongst the citizens. Everyone that could, moved to neighbouring European cities. The damage was estimated at half of the annual state budget at that time. The bell tower of the cathedral was damaged then and under the guidance of Hermann Bollé, the renowned architect in charge of the reconstruction of Zagreb, it took on its present look. As already mentioned before, there are two seismic zones in Croatia. So it wouldn’t be fair to only write about Zagreb considering the fact that other Croatian cities have experienced a similar fate. The oldest earthquake mentioned in literature, occured in 361 when the city of Cissa on the island of Pag disappeared. History recorded an earthquake in Slunj in 1511, estimated at IX and X degrees on the MCS. Dubrovnik shook many times: in 1667 at X degrees on the MCS, when it was literally razed to the ground, and 3000 people were killed, then in 1996, with an epicenter in Slano at VI degrees according to the MCS. The city of Virovitica had an earthquake in 1757, at an estimated IX degrees on the MCS, Pokuplje in 1909 at VIII-IX degrees, the Imotski region in 1942, while the II World War was in full swing at 6,2 on the Richter scale and twenty years later (1962) the Makarska region shook at IX on the MCS. At the time 11 thousand residential buildings were destroyed, and 13 percent of the total population of Makarska was left homeless.


promo

Holy Trinity Chapel Draganić

THE MOST VISITED TOURIST DESTINATION IN TOWN MORE THAN 8 800 ANIMAL UNITS! 480 000 VISITORS ANNUALLY! OVER 370 ANIMAL SPECIES! 4TH MOST VISITED TOURIST DESTINATION IN CROATIA! THE ONLY ZOO IN THE WORLD WHERE YOU CAN SEE AN OLM

ZAGREB ZOO Maksimirski perivoj bb, Zagreb tel.: +385 (0)1 2302198, e-mail: info@zoo.hr, www.zoo.hr

Restaurant “By the sea lion” (Kod morskog Lava) offers a daily menu to visitors of the Zoo, groups and event organizations are available! morski.lav@zoo.hr, +385 91 574 4915

© Tatjana Horvatić

In the area of the former Noble Municipality of Draganić and the then Pauline estate, on a secluded hill is the chapel of the Holy Trinity, a first-class cultural and historical monument, the significance of which was recognized in the national context as early as 1964, when it was declared a cultural monument. It was built in 1689 from hewn planks, on stone foundations of an older, also wooden chapel. Later styles, periods and modern architectural tendencies did not affect the construction structure, so the chapel managed to preserve the archaic traditional form. The simple exterior is contrasted by an interior whose appearance is surprising with a wealth of colours, characters, scenes and shapes. The inner sides of the wooden rocks are mostly covered with oak planks, painted with almost life-size motifs of saintly figures. The motifs date back to the beginning of the 18th century when the master created it with tempera on wood under the influence of the Pauline school. The authenticity of the ambience, along with the beauty and the archaicness of the Draganica chapel was recognized and used by Croatian film director and writer Ante Babaja, in the anthological film “Breza” (birch tree) filmed in 1967 based on the novel by Slavko Kolar. The key moments in the life of the main protagonist of the story – feasts, wedding and funeral ‒ are placed in the scenography whose recognizability and most significant feature is the chapel Holy Trinity. The first significant renovation of the entire chapel began in 2016 with funds from the Ministry of Culture. It was done under the supervision and conditions of the conservatory and at the same time construction, as well as conservatory and restauration work were


27.6. LADO ELECTRO

11.7. MILE KEKIN

2020

4.7. TAMARA OBROVAC QUARTET

18.7. EDO MAAJKA


on the road with books

Literature

Ena Katarina Haler: NADOHVAT (WITHIN REACH) Within Reach is the first modern literary text that uses a clear female voice and docufictional prose narrating the real story of controversial events from our recent history. www.vbz.hr

Leo Rafolt: VIRUS IN FABULA Even though trends change, it is pretty rare that scientists of social-humanistic orientation grapple with hot reality, in a way that parallel with the appearance of some phenomenon sprouts a whole monograph about it. www.meandar.hr Mirela Priselac Remi: MASARYKOVA Mirela Priselac’s poetic debut connects us to well known Remin author’s signature and her recognizable flow, the urban imaginary of the heat of the city asphalt, by which sovereignly steps a strong, emancipated woman, with a much more vulnerable, confessional voice of unknown lyrical protagonists. www.vbz.hr Blaženka Rogan: MOBBERS The book in a scientific and at the same time popularizing way covers everything science has done to prove, and practical apply about the assumptions of the social phenomenon of mobbing, primarily at work. www.skolskaknjiga.hr

Sanja Baković: BUS FOR TRNAVA A new collection of poems by Sanja Baković, titled after an almost programmatic poem Bus to Trnava, with its structure and chronology represents a possible time, geographical and symbolic journey (east leads to east, after east is the new east). www.meandar.hr

Marina Horkić: GOOD STARS OF THE MILKY WAY In her new novel, Marina Horkić dives into one of the most sensitive periods of ours region, some fifty turbulent years during which systems alternated, ideologies, uniforms, and flags, and imposed and banned languages. The novel is woven of Mediterranean colours, sounds, images and memories. www.vbz.hr Katja Grcić: LETTER TO ZITA What does it mean to be an actress? What an emotional, political and personal audacity involves going out in front of an audience? Is the audience a friend of the actress, or just a spectator? Zita’s letters are a universal story about the fear of loneliness, the search for meaning, and above all, about your choice and other people’s freedom of choice. www.meandar.hr Bekim Serjanović: LJEPŠI KRAJ (NICER END) No one has yet so effectively combined the Nordic and Bosnian anxiety, and so impresprepared: MATEJ ČEPL

sively evoked twilight and purgatory of the soul in the snowy mountains, both Norwegian and Bosnian. www.vbz.hr

Darko Tralić: NAJLJEPŠE JADRANSKE PLOVIDBE (THE MOST BEAUTIFUL ADRIATIC NAVIGATION) Do you dream spending seven days of freedom by the infinity of the sea? Do you want to loosen the bonds that you connect with a tiring daily routine and sail towards new horizons? This book will book help you to throw away all your doubts and raise the anchor. www.skolskaknjiga.hr Stipe Grgas: ZABLAĆE Stipe Grgas’ book of poems Zablaće, connects and seperates everything that makes his hometown seem spacious and poetically important, and what takes him to forgotten, abandoned or forgotten places of a what looks like a peripheral history. www.meandar.hr Branko Čegec i Miroslav Mićanović: NESVRSTANA PISMA (2009.-2019.) (NON-ALIGNED LETTERS) Even though they saw each other almost everyday for coffee and a conversation, during the period between 2009 and 2019 poets Miroslav Mićanović and Branko Čegec often wrote to each other. Their Non-aligned letters remind us of the the permeation of life and art, to poetry in life. www.meandar.hr




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