plaid handbook
MORE THAN A PATTERN. THE FOLLOWING HANDBOOK WAS STARTED AS AN INTERNAL DOCUMENT, BUT AS IT GREW WE FOUND IT WAS TOO INTERESTING NOT TO SHARE...
To know where you are going, you have to know where you’ve been. Pladra was born out of respect for those that came before us, and for all the hard work it takes to make a high quality and timeless flannel shirt. We feel that in order to make the best product possible, you have to fully understand its roots. Why has this simple pattern been embraced in so many forms throughout history? This handbook is an attempt to break down every aspect of plaid- from how it is made to its many types. But most importantly, we want to help answer the big question that everyone asks: Why does plaid never die?
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introduction
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plaid handbook
PLAID, TARTAN OR FLANNEL? When you hear the word plaid, you instantly think of a flannel shirt- the two are synonymous. Just the word flannel brings up images of lumberjacks, grunge music, and poorly dressed dads. And if you are traveling overseas, you may hear it called tartan. Let us clear this up:
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definitions
PLAID noun What we know as PLAID today is a specific textile pattern made from bands of colored thread at different widths that cross each other to form different sized squares and checks. The Scottish origins of the word plaide have a different meaning. The Gaelic context of plaide doesn’t refer to the pattern at all - it refers to a large, rectangular piece of fabric similar to a blanket. This blanket was used as traditional clothing, which was wrapped around and belted, much like a toga.
TARTAN
noun
The aforementioned blankets were woven with the square-like patterns that the Highland Scots called TARTAN. Tartan is the Scottish and European term for what we call plaid today. This tartan pattern was so commonly used on the plaide blankets that it is understandable why the terms have become interchangeable in American culture.
FLANNEL
noun
Finally, FLANNEL is not a pattern at all - it’s simply a type of soft, woven fabric that was initially built for warmth. Originally made from wool or worsted yarn, flannel is woven and then finished through a mechanical process of brushing the fabric with a fine metal comb, which raises the fibers of the yarn. This allows the fabric to trap more air, raising its warmth to weight ratio, as well as making it softer to the touch.
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plaid handbook
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THE BEGINNING. The following is a brief history of where plaid came from and how it has been interpreted over thousands of years.
Fig. 01 Wool was one of the first natural materials used to create flannel fabric.
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plaid handbook
The most common belief is that tartan and plaid originated in the 5th-6th Century BC from weavers in Northern Britain and Ireland, but there are accounts of similar patterns found in Egypt and Asia even earlier. The earliest and most intact sample of tartan discovered is the Flakirk Tartan, which dates back to 3rd Century AD and now resides in the National Museum of Scotland. Tartan hit its heyday in the 1600’s when weaving practices improved, allowing more complex detail and design. The Highland Scots adopted the pattern as a way to identify their particular clans, families, hunting parties, and armies. Each clan created
an individual tartan pattern, which adorned their clothing, kilts, blankets, and other woven goods. These families used their tartan as a flag or crest, which tied them to levels of status, craft, and wealth. It truly was a source of pride for their clan. All different types of designs emerged and became a central part of the heritage of Scotland. Chances are if you have a Scottish last name, you have a tartan pattern somewhere in your family tree. It is the fabric of the culture and why we associate plaid with Scotland. The patterns then spread throughout Europe as symbols of wealth and eventually fashion.
fig. 01
Tartan was seen as a unifying threat to British reign and was even banned for nearly 40 years by The Dress Act of 1746. This was an attempt to control Scottish warrior clans by denying aspects of Gaelic culture. 8
history of plaid
Hundreds of tartans evolved to signify individual clans. Behind each one lies a unique story of history and tradition. Below are 3 of our favorites.
LOCKHART TARTAN Originally named Locard, this clan settled in Lanarkshire in the 12th century. Sir Simon Locard was entrusted with the task of carrying a key to the casket of Robert the Bruce’s heart during a crusade in 1329. To commemorate this quest, he then changed the family name to Lockhart.
CUNNINGHAM TARTAN The Cunningham family’s roots date back to 1140, when they settled in the district of Ayrshire. Alexander de Cunningham was made Earl of Glencairn by James III in 1488. He was known as a fair and honest leader.
MACBETH TARTAN The Macbeth clan will always be associated with Shakespeare’s tragedy, but the real Scottish King was not so callous. He ruled from 1040 – 1057 and was know for being a military force on the battlefield, yet ruling with wisdom and generosity.
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plaid handbook
THE AMERICAN INFLUENCE. While the historical significance of plaid may not be the same in the U.S. as in Scotland, it has made a great impact on American culture. Plaid found its way over through early European settlers, but it didn’t really become a popular shirt until the 1800’s. Plaid shirting first emerged in the service sector of America, being used as somewhat of a uniform for laborers. The plaid patterns were primarily used on heavy wool or cotton work shirts to endure a hard day on the job. The red and black check became popular with lumber workers and entered mainstream culture through the fictional folk hero Paul Bunyan, forever linking the flannel shirt to the lumberjack. Throughout the years, different variations of plaid shirts became associated with different groups. Surf culture adopted the plaid flannel in the 1960’s, and The Beach Boys were almost named The Pendletones due to the plaid shirts they always wore. The 70’s saw Daisy Duke wear tight plaid shirts tied at the
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waist. The 80’s punk scene used plaid shirts as a sign of rebellion, and the 90’s forged the grunge scene. Every generation has had some emotional connection with the plaid flannel, and we see it today through the hipster and outdoor movement.
fig. 02 Paul Bunyan, his faithful blue ox, and his red and black lumberjack with hat to match.
history of plaid
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plaid handbook
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BENEATH THE WEAVE. Let’s take a technical look at how a plaid pattern is woven and how to identify its many different types and variations.
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plaid handbook
HOW IT’S MADE There are endless possibilities and complexities of making plaids. At its most simple form, plaids are created through the process of weaving. Weaving is performed by tightly interlacing threads or yarns that are at a 90 degree angle to one another. The vertical yarns, called the warp, are placed taut on a loom frame through eyelets called heddles that keep the yarns in place. The horizontal yarns are called the weft, and are pulled through the warp yarns using a guiding device called a shuttle. This tedious process is repeated until the desired quantity of fabric is created. Patterns are created by choosing different amounts and different colored yarn for both the warp and weft. The symmetrical plaid patterns that we know today are created by using the same layout and colored yarns for both the warp and weft. This allows for endless design and color combinations.
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beneath the weave
The most traditional and common looms are twill looms, which rotate all of the warp yarns each time the shuttle is passed through. This creates a diagonal tick that is evident in the fabric and makes a twill weave recognizable.
Warp Threads
Weft Threads
fig. 03 Traditional 2x2 twill weave pattern.
Advancements in loom technology have taken weaving to new heights. Jacquard and dobby looms made way for intricate designs and detail. Most modern weaving is done through automated looms, which can be digitally programed, improving patterns and efficiency.
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plaid handbook
2x2 PLAID TW
Below is a 3 step illustration showing how a 2x color that is inserted the plaid
fig. 04
The first band of color in the weft is being inserted by diving under the first 2 warp threads, then diving over the next 2 and so on, advancing one thread each pass.
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fig.
Next, the second band of co You can begin to see the sta creat
beneath the weave
WILL WEAVE
x2 Plaid twill weave is woven. With each new pattern begins to take shape
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olor (red) is being inserted. art of the plaid pattern being ted.
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The last color band, grey, is then inserted to finish the swatch. The iconic ‘diagonal’ hash marks often found in any classic flannel material become evident at this stage. This is inherent to the 2 x 2 twill weave shown above. These classic hash marks become more or less visual depending on the twill pattern that is used.
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plaid handbook
TYPES AND VARIATIONS Plaid patterns are made up of a series of repeated squares called a SETT. These setts can either be made by using the same thread pattern in both the warp and the weft, but they don’t necessarily need to match. In the tartan example below, the thread pattern in the warp mirrors the thread pattern in the weft.
SETT
PLAID PATTERN 18
beneath the weave
You never know when you’ll need to drop some plaid pattern knowledge. There are many types, but here are some of the most common and how to identify them.
SHEPHERD’S CHECK One of the oldest and most simple plaids, this classic consists of only two colors of yarn in same size, alternating checks. This is commonly known as a buffalo plaid today and is considered the most timely and outdoorsy of patterns. We modernized it through our Rust Red plaid by tweaking the colors a bit, but it still unmistakably reminiscent of the classic red and black lumberjack look.
TARTAN What we now call tartan plaid consists of vertical and horizontal lines that cross each other to form different sized checks. This is the most common plaid pattern you will see. It can come in multi-color yarns, different scales, and unique complexities. We love tartan plaid so much because there are so many ways with which we can get creative, but it is the truest and most pure form of traditional plaid from Scotland.
WINDOWPANE This one is pretty self-explanatory - it’s a clean, classic pattern that consists of a solid ground, with a simple square outline woven through, mimicking a window pane. We used a windowpane plaid in our Dove Grey flannel to add a bit of detail to what might otherwise look like a one-color flannel.
MADRAS Madras plaids derived from East India and are known for their bright and colorful stripes and checks. The layout is usually uneven and uses multiple colors, giving a more preppy look. Madras is commonly used on lightweight fabrics and is associated with spring and summer.
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plaid handbook
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CONCLUSION
HERE TO STAY. How is this 2,500-year-old pattern still relevant today? From a technical standpoint, it is ever-changing. The variations of color, design, and scale give plaid the ability to adapt to any trend. You can push the limits of new weaving techniques, fabrics, and finishes to produce something with modern attributes while holding down timeless style. It is because the pattern is such a simple series of directional lines that there is so much you can do with it. From a social level, plaid has always been a sign of cultural identity. Whether it was to identify your Scottish clan, or to fit in at your local, overpriced artisanal coffee shop, wearing the pattern connects you with a particular group of people. Plaid is a statement of inclusion, and it is human nature to want to belong to something. So no matter what crazy ideas or style the future brings, we are certain that there will always be some form of plaid pattern to go with it.
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COPYRIGHT PLADRA, INC. 2016