10 minute read
An all-too-brief excursion around central Scotland, and the delights of a stay in Baden Baden in Germany
HIGHLIGHTS OF THE HIGHLANDS
I was looking forward to our summer escape in Scotland. I had heard that the rain gets warmer in August, so off we set on our million-mile road trip staycation (yes, my publisher said Scotland is, at least for now, still considered a staycation) BY TESS DE KLERK
After our long trek across country we found ourselves on a sinewy single-track road through the Scottish wilds, which eventually gave way to an oasis that felt like the end of the world. Loch Awe stretched into the distance.
We had arrived in brooding weather; it was drizzly – exactly as one might expect of the Scottish lochs. Ordinarily I would add ‘dreary’ to my drizzle but not this time. No, the weather was just so fi ttingly beautiful that I might have been disappointed had it been anything but soulfully doleful. Brooding hills and eagles soaring overhead - Scotland writ large.
ARDANAISEIG HOTEL
Th e windy path opened up for us weary travellers and there stood the gothic looking country pile that is Ardanaiseig, our accommodation for the night. It has been standing on the shores of Loch Awe since 1834, which is when the then-owner commissioned the leading architect of the time, William Burn, to build the house. It has changed ownership a few times since but it is now Grade II listed and has thankfully retained much character.
Th e current owner, London antique owner Bennie Gray, has fi lled it with an eclectic array of quirky antiques including a Victorian painting in the dining room... at fi rst it looks old-fashioned but look again! Th e mafi a boss who procured it became bored with the dining scene therefore had it altered to suit his modern tastes, turning the previous dinner guests into Mick Jagger and other famous faces.
Th e 16 rooms at Ardanaiseig are all unique. We stayed in the Master Bedroom Loch View which was a bit dated but still lovely, with its antique four-poster bed and beautiful view across the gardens and loch. Rose Cottage, a self-catering cottage on the hotel’s grounds, is ideal for families or groups of friends as it accommodates up to four guests. Alternatively, you can choose complete privacy with the modern Boatshed, Ardanaiseig’s luxury honeymoon suite, situated on the banks of the Loch.
One can lounge in front of the roaring fi re, enjoy a whisky-tasting session or try a tinkle on the piano but do pull on a pair of the hotel supplied wellies too and explore the stunning woodlands and meadows. Trout fi shing, horse riding, clay pigeon shooting and archery can also be arranged, or simply take your crumpets and croquet on Ardanaiseig’s sprawling lawns. From £185 prpn inc breakfast www.ardanaiseig.com
Rannoch Train Station
The ruins of Kilchurn castle on Loch Awe, the longest fresh water loch in Scotland
Our departure from Ardanaiseig wasn’t without a touch of wistfulness but it soon dissipated as we weaved our way along the breathtaking roads of Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park on our way to Ben Nevis. It’s the highest mountain in the UK, and was stunning, even though we didn’t manage to see the mountain peak as it was shrouded in a heavy cloud.
Why didn’t we hike up, you ask? I fully intended to until I read that the hike takes 6-8 hours. In hindsight, that makes sense, so do schedule a full day trip if you are planning to reach the mountain top. You cannot drive up there and the mountain won’t come to you or Mohammed.
LOCH RANNOCH HOTEL AND SPA
Th is hotel estate reminded me slightly of American holiday lake resorts in movies like Dirty Dancing. Its refurbishment in 2021 focussed on enhancing many of the traditional features and included reinstating the original fi replaces and pairing Victorian-inspired fi ttings with a modern twist throughout the hotel.
It worked well and we particularly enjoyed the Wild Brownie Bar with its outside terrace overlooking the loch. Th e only road around the loch is nearly part of the hotel complex, which felt a bit odd but hardly a car passed and it soon didn’t matter. Unfortunately, the swimming pool area was a letdown but I believe that modernising is in the plans.
What makes Loch Rannoch Hotel special is its location at the heart of the Central Highlands, a fantastic base to experience the Scottish Highlands with an abundance of scenery, wildlife, activities and sports. Th e hotel has its own marina and School of Adventure, off ering kayaking, sailing, paddle boarding, wild swimming, bicycle hire, squash court, indoor climbing wall, guided hill walking and fl y fi shing as well as a fi tness studio. From £110 prpn inc breakfast www.lochrannochhotel.com
“Th e famous Harry Potter train station is just around the corner from the hotel” said the wee boy, so off we went in search of a photo that would impress the kids. We drove and we drove and we drove some more. Th e scenery was magnifi cent but there was not another human nor vehicle in sight for miles, and the road had long since turned into something more akin to a path. We were defi nitely in the middle of nowhere, about to turn round when all of a sudden a sign read Rannoch Station! We got out. It wasn’t the Harry Potter station, and yet this tiny train station was abuzz with people! I cannot stress enough how remote this little place was, so naturally we expected that all these people must be waiting on a train. I asked the very busy proprietor of the tea shop operating on the platform about the train schedule; three trains a week pass through she
Why didn’t we said, and one is due. Th at made sense, all these people must be waiting for the hike up Ben Nevis you ask? I fully , train. But the train arrived and not a single person boarded! Two girls got off the train and walked out of the station intended to until without meeting anyone. Th e next train was due in two days, I read that the hike there were hardly any vehicles parked takes 6-8 hours… outside the station. Th e majority of people there were most defi nitely not in hiking gear, and no coaches pass here, I was informed. I half expected the soundtrack from X Files to start playing! I still ponder the tanned man with his LA drawl, the elderly lady with her cut glass English accent and high heels, the leather-clad lovebirds – all there for reasons unfathomable. Next stop... Edinburgh. >>
View from Calton Hill
THE BONHAM HOTEL
Th e Bonham Hotel is swoon-worthy! My oh my, how lovely! It’s a true 5-star experience, set in a quiet leafy crescent in the exclusive West End of Edinburgh, only minutes from the main attractions of the Scottish capital. It is gorgeous with its original Victorian architectural features having been painstakingly restored, and an impressive art collection on display across the hotel.
It’s pure luxury here, with heavenly Hypnos mattresses and beautiful fabrics in airy rooms and suites. Many rooms off er stunning views either over Drumsheugh Gardens, or towards the Firth of Forth and the Kingdom of Fife.
Save time for a drink (or afternoon tea) in the sumptuously styled bar before heading to the elegant No 35 restaurant for dinner. Head Chef, Marco Drummond Nobrega off ers a creative menu of European cuisine with Scottish twists. Breakfast is a fancy aff air with a full Scottish breakfast as well as a continental spread.
I can only praise Th e Bonham for its service and staff whose passion for their hotel was unmistakable and knowledge of its fascinating history and splendid art collection was vast. I asked copious questions and was answered with delight. And no, they did not realise that I was reviewing! We thoroughly enjoyed our stay and can fully recommend Th e Bonham for your next stay in the striking Scottish capital. From £165 prpn inc breakfast https://thebonham.com/
And with that, my shamefully short whistle-stop tour of central Scotland - the wilds and the cities - came to an end, and it was time to head back. Everything I had heard about Scotland, from its romantic lochs, breathtaking scenery, amazing architecture and more besides were dazzlingly true. I will be back - and soon.
Baden-Baden is a spa town so good, they named it twice – and so exceptional it was recently listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site alongside 10 other standout European spa towns
BATHING IN BADEN-BADEN’S DELIGHTS
Tucked away in Germany’s Black Forest, this ancient town was built atop nearly thirty natural springs known for their healing qualities. Th e main tree-lined promenade hugs the River Oos while Neoclassical and Belle Époque masterpieces rise up beyond the foliage. Michelin-starred dining and high-rolling at the stately and storied Casino Baden-Baden can be followed by days of peacefully luxuriating in gorgeous famed spas and scenic walks through a historic town that has always been about unplugging and recharging.
WHERE TO STAY
Brenners Park-Hotel & Spa Th is upmarket grande dame hotel is set in a leafy central spot - with a large to-die-for spa and Michellin-starred dining. From £351 prpn WINING & DINING
Th e region’s cuisine is considered some of the best in Germany, with fertile soils providing fresh ingredients. Th e Michelin Guide recommends 36 restaurants in BadenBaden. Here are some of our picks.
Le Jardin de France Im Sthalbad Set in a beautiful building off ering classic, gourmet French cuisine, a fantastic wine list and family-run hospitality.
Hotel Belle Epoque Th is 19th-century villa is a belle époque beauty in its own right, set in gardens near Baden-Lichtentaler Baden’s Allee, a world-class festival hall, casino, and curative thermal baths. From £165 prpn Villa Stephanie at Brenners Park-Hotel & Spa Th e historic and luxurious Villa Stéphanie boasts expertise in health and wellbeing dating as far back as 1872. Th ey are known for their comprehensive treatments and dedication to rejuvenation. From £351 prpn Roomers Baden-Baden Stylish, upmarket, professionally run and boasting friendly staff , this is arguably the German spa town’s top hotel. From £151 prpn
Weinstube Baldreit Th is lovely little wine bar may be a little out of the way but it is well worth seeking out, especially in the summer when the interior courtyard really comes into its own. Th e food is traditional, ranging from steak tartar to fl ammekueche and braised pig’s cheeks.
Wintergarten In the tasteful winter garden of the grand Brenners hotel, you get a wonderful view of the spa gardens while you dine. Quality ingredients are used in their great choice of contemporary dishes.
Maltes Hidden Kitchen Th is interesting kitchen is a coff ee shop during the day, serving hot drinks and cake, while the evening sees a change to creative cuisine for dinner. Th e team skilfully pare things down to the essentials, making the ingredients the focus of the set menu. A pleasant, cosy little restaurant with a charm all of its own – dining here makes for a really fun experience!
HOW TO GET THERE
Return fl ights from Gatwick to Strasbourg from £222 Baden-Baden is a 1h journey by car or train from Strasbourg.
