RESTAURANT INTERLUDE pure artistry

By TESS DE KLERK

Michellin-starred Restaurant Interlude continues the impeccable attention to detail found at Leonardslee House; a continuation of a unique old-world elegance blended with modern tastes. The very talented South African-born executive chef, Jean Delport, is truly an artist who uses food as his medium. And what a palette he has! The entire 240-hectare woodland estate that is Leonardslee is his to forage, his to ponder, his to experiment his alchemist ways with, and that he does.

Ever wondered what an 18-course menu looks like?

His degustation menus adjust with the seasons and are guided by what is available in the garden, aiming at bringing the gardens to life within his restaurant. And I feel that was skilfully achieved; never before had I known the taste of pine trees or the silver birch I had so admired earlier in the day – fl avours clearly coaxed out with great care.

But don’t expect just a meal at Interlude – expect something akin to theatre. Guests are invited to woodland-inspired pre-dinner cocktails at the charming little bar before being escorted to the spacious manor house dining area where staff are attentive to a fault.

The enthusiasm and knowledge of servers and the convivial sommelier, Simba, are apparent. Each plate of the 18-course sample menu is explained, in detail and accompanied by a little map showing where the ingredients were taken from the gardens. Stunningly creative dishes appeared in front of me with flourish, paired with a selection of fantastic South African wines and pure artistry in presentation. I was slightly concerned that such a lengthy menu would become dreary but the evening flew by in a haze of wonder and perfectly paired wines.

It’s easy to maintain razor-sharp attention to detail in the planning, execution and serving of a three-course meal but 18? Yet, not a crumb out of place, nor a hair of the servers askew during Interlude’s delectable production. A true feat.

www.restaurant-interlude.co.uk

+ THE MENU

Ever wondered what an 18-course menu looks like?

1 Estate venison

2 Foraged flan - start of spring

3 Poached oyster - nettle, kaffir lime

4 Scallop - Exmoor caviar - Alexanders

5 Vetkoek - lobster, wild garlic

6 Rabbit ears carrot

7 Trenchmore beef - pumpkin - pine

8 Potbread - wild seeds, fermented honey

9 Snail porridge - bone marrow, oak

10 Chef’s pasture raised egg

11 Turbot - juniper, Sussex saffron

12 Shot pheasant - black pudding

13 Baron bigod - preserved damson

14 Sloe berry - Leonardslee gin, nasturtium

15 Elder - blackberry, local raw milk

16 Our honey - sunflower, marigold

17 Bespoke Sussex chocolate - yeast, birch

18 Woodland box

MOM, HOW DID YOU MEET THE BEATLES?

Chichester

In the Swinging ‘60s, playwright Adrienne Kennedy leaves New York for London, intent on adapting John Lennon’s book ‘In His Own Write’ for the stage, though things don’t go to plan. Kennedy’s autobiographical play is a mesmerising and disquieting tale of a young Black woman’s betrayal at the hands of the establishment.

Chichester Festival Theatre, Chichester

June 16th - July 8th www.cft.org.uk/events/ mom-how-did-you-meet-the-beatles