Three of our favourite Italian lakes

3 OF OUR FAVOURITE ITALIAN LAKES

There’s nothing quite like the glamour of holidaying at The lakes of Northern Italy. The serene nature and old skool beauty are hard to beat and puts The Lakes squarely on our bucket lists. Here we take a brief look at three of the eight Italian lakes and some fantastic accommodation options. By Tess de Klerk

LAKE COMO

Perhaps the most famous of the lakes, Como has long been the haunt of aristocrats and film stars who flock to its shores for understated glamour and breathtaking beauty. Lake Como has a reputation as the place to see and be seen!

It’s worth noting that the lake has two main communities, the relatively sleepy Varenna, and the glitzy, glamorous Bellagio with both offering quaint cobbled streets, neo-classical villas and stunning scenery. Water taxis wizz about between the two and you can’t go wrong with booking your stay anywhere on Como.

REFINED EXCLUSIVITY Villa d’Este The opulent Villa d’Este was once the summer home of Princess Caroline of Brunswick and welcomed princesses, marquises, sultans and stars in its long history. It oozes regality with palatial rooms, suites and villas luxuriously decorated with rich fabrics, sparkling chandeliers and works of art. Nestled in extensive private grounds, complete with terraces, statuary and a mosaic-embellished garden, Villa d’Este offers unrivalled facilities and impeccable service. Its reputation as one of the best grand dames in the world still stands.

Filario Hotel Villa d’Este

OLD SKOOL ELEGANCE Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni Bellagio’s opulent Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni is an elegant grand dame, with all the trappings of old fashioned luxury. Think doric columns, beautiful antiques, frescoed ceilings, grand sun terraces, spectacular lake views and, of course, a Michelin-starred restaurant.

CONTEMPORARY LUXURY Filario Hotel Modern architecture, clean design and genuine hospitality create a luxuriously modern atmosphere that sets Hotel Filario apart from everything else on Lake Como. All 13 rooms at Filario feature private, cosy balconies with stunning views over the lake. The private beach has a lovely little beach bar, offering fantastic appetisers, wine and cocktails.

Isola Bella

LAKE MAGGIORE

This 35-mile long lake straddles both Italy and Switzerland, with the majestic Alps providing its staggeringly beautiful backdrop. The term ‘picture perfect’ is wholly appropriate, and it’s no surprise that artists such as Hemingway and Clark Gable found their inspiration here. Isola Bella, with its belle-epoque villa, cultivated gardens and roaming white peacocks is one of three tiny Borromean islands, and an unforgettable day trip not to be missed.

These days Maggiore offers a peaceful atmosphere perfect for travellers looking for that laid-back feeling with an added touch of old-world elegance.

FOR THAT PERFECT SPA BREAK Grand Hotel des Iles Borromees & Spa I struggle to describe the opulence of Grand Hotel des Iles Borromees. Although construction started in 1861, it boasts all of the detailed splendour of the baroque and rococo tastes, seamlessly meshing architecture and art. Expect lots of drippings of gold and cherubs as you absorb the history of this remarkable hotel. The medical spa is modern and offers an impressive array of treatments.

BUDGET-FRIENDLY AND FULL OF CHARACTER La Camelia d’Oro This guesthouse, which used to be the private home of a gardener, has been cultivating its camellias since 1872! It offers pleasant stays surrounded by blooming flowers in spring and winter, lovely cool weather in summer and gorgeous colours and fruits in autumn. Grand Hotel des Iles Borromees & Spa

La Camelia d’Oro

View over Lake Levico

LAKE LEVICO

Find your very own tranquil oasis hidden between the verdant hills of Lake Levico. This relatively small lake is renowned for its beautifully clear, Blue Flag accredited waters and resembles a Norwegian fjord. Its main village, Levico Terme, is a historical thermal spa town filled with flower-lined pedestrianised streets.

The mountains and lush woodland make it a popular destination for hiking and cycling. There are gentle routes around the lake or more adventurous trails into the mountains.

IDEAL FOR SPORTS LOVERS Hotel Sport & Wellness Hotel Cristallo The rooms at Hotel Cristallo are modern, functional and reminiscent of Finnish saunas. There is no shortage of actual saunas either which come in handy after a day of biking or hiking. Top of the range mountain bikes are available for free and there is garage parking for your motorbike.

GREAT FOR FAMILIES Parc Hotel Du Lac This family-friendly hotel boasts an idyllic location, private beach and lake-view spa. Facilities for children include slides in the outdoor pool, a number of play areas and a special children’s menu but this lovely hotel also ensures plenty of luxuries for parents. Hotel Sport & Wellness Hotel Cristallo

Parc Hotel Du Lac

EXPERIENCE ITALY LIKE AN ITALIAN!

I am fortunate to have worked and travelled in Italy for long enough to have experienced the country as a traveller as opposed to a tourist. What’s the difference you ask? In a nutshell, travellers often get to experience their destination more authentically than tourists might. Not to worry, just keep these musings in mind if you long for authentic Italy on your next trip.

DON’T VISIT IN AUGUST August’s stifling heat and hordes of tourists is enough to make Italians run for the hills (literally and figuratively!). This is the time when most Italians leave their cities and only the unlucky few stay behind to serve the tourist industry. Rome is an overcrowded nightmare in August but Milan is even worse with swarms of monster mosquitoes trying to reclaim their swampland, which the city was built on. If possible, visit these cities in spring or autumn. Early June is ideal when the days are already long and the prospect of the upcoming summer puts everyone in a good mood. Other months are okay too but August is a no-go for Italians.

UNDERSTAND OPENING TIMES AND EMBRACE ‘RIPOSINO’ Many Italian shops and tourist attractions still close for a few hours over lunchtime, usually from 1 pm-3:30 pm, with noon to 4 pm the norm in Southern Italy. This is especially common over the hot summer months and allows workers to enjoy a leisurely lunch and ‘riposino’, a rest. Foreigners can find this frustrating, especially if they’re trying to squeeze as much as possible into the day but, believe me, the right thing to do is to embrace it like the locals. Savour your lunch and have that afternoon nap – it will serve you well in the evening when no self-respecting Italian restaurateur would ever serve dinner before 8 pm and evenings start to blossom around 11:30 pm. n To locals, ordering a cappuccino after 11am borders on sacrilege. n Don’t order a latte - except if you want a warm cup of milk. n Delight the chef by drinking only water, wine or beer with meals. Steer clear of flavoured drinks as they’re perceived to alter the taste of food. n Aperitivo, the 5 o’clock-ish impromptu drinks and snacks get-together, is the very essence of the Italian way of life and always a pleasure. It’s also the way to keep hunger at bay until supper, sometimes eaten well past 9 pm n To avoid disappointment keep in mind that, traditionally, the pizzas served in Northern

Italy is what we may know as ‘deep dish’ with thick, bready crusts. The Southern

Italian pizza is the thin-crust variety. If you are looking for the thin-crust pizza while in Milan, let’s say, then look out for Romana Pizzerias. n Waiters aren’t being rude when seemingly ignoring you after serving your food. They know you’re there but allow you to enjoy your meal in peace. If there is an issue simply catch their attention. The bill won’t arrive automatically so when you’re ready to leave, just flag down your waiter the next time he passes by and say “Il conto, per favore”. n NEVER splash in any fountains. People do but never Italians, who view their fountains as monuments. In Rome you can be heavily fined for such behaviour. n Finally and perhaps most importantly - don’t sweat the small stuff . Your train is likely to be late and your dinner guest may well be but carpe diem! After all, you’re on holiday in beautiful Italy!

SIDESTEP THE TOURIST-TRAP RESTAURANTS My main tip here is to look out for simple menus. If you can’t find your favourite carciofi alla guida (artichoke) on the menu in August, then take it as a good sign. It most likely means that the kitchen respects nature’s rules of seasonality and the chef takes pride in using fresh ingredients. Look for eateries offering local specialities, i.e. a menu without pizza or tiramisu can indicate a great find.

Restaurants located on piazzas are too often tourist traps selling frozen foods (especially in Venice!). Wander down an alley or two to find something authentic. Never be tempted by hustling hosts enticing you into their establishments - great restaurants don’t need hype men!

EAT SLOWLY - EXCEPT FOR BREAKFAST! Breakfast is a fast affair in Italy but don’t mistake this for fast food take away. Traditional breakfast is a pastry and cappuccino or espresso. Order your coffee at the cashier first, hand your receipt over to the barista, and enjoy your coffee while standing at the counter bar. Why not try ordering ‘cornetto e capuccio’ (croissant and cappuccino) like millions of Italians do every morning. RELAX AND LET GO OF THAT MUST-SEE LIST Of course, experiencing those top sights are important but I urge you to take the time to explore the neighbourhoods which make up the fabric of Italian society - without an itinerary. Get lost, hang around in parks, shop at local markets, eat your gelato on church steps and chat with the nonnas gathering on the piazza. Plunge into Italian life as you feel the neighbourhoods pulse around you. A few favourites for neighbourhood exploration are Trastevere in Rome, Sant’ Ambrogio in Florence and Ranzini Vini in Turin.

DRESS TO IMPRESS The majority of Italians enjoy the art of dressing well and they can cast judging eyes toward inappropriate attire. But don’t worry, that doesn’t mean that you should splash the cash on designer gear to fit in and in most situations, a smart casual look will make you look like a true Italian! It does mean that Italy is the perfect place to wear that gorgeous dress or pricey blazer that’s been hanging in the back of your wardrobe for ages. Always a resounding NO to socks with sandals and remember that, as a rule, flip-flops are beachwear only in Italy.

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