[ GOURMAND ] DAVIDE CARANCHINI
A combination of experimentation and provocation – his mission is a research into taste. A portrait of a Michelin-starred chef with deep roots in his region but an unsentimental approach and a highly personal vision by Marta Bernasconi
A
young prodigy of Italian cuisine, Davide Caranchini won
the world of patisserie at Heinz Beck in London, then I went
his first Michelin star before turning thirty. Born in Como,
to work at Noma in Copenhagen. This was a decisive move, as
his cooking takes account of his origins and local traditions,
it challenged my preconceptions and opened up a clear vision
combining them with experimentation and provocation to create
of what I wanted to do. What we do here on the lake is closely
new alchemies of taste. His stints in other restaurants with some
related to the region itself, and the roots we draw inspiration
of the world’s most famous chefs have helped shape his vision. “I
from and the ingredients and methods that were familiar to our
attended the Hotel Institute in Como, and when I left I worked
grandparents are similar to those used in the Nordic cuisine,
in a series of restaurants. They were all different, and I learnt
and working at Noma made me realise they could be handled
something new from all the great chefs I worked under. My
in a new way”. The world of vegetables and its potential lie at
first experience in a famous restaurant was at Le Gavroche in
the basis of Caranchini’s cooking at his Materia restaurant in
London, which was a school for order and discipline. It also
Cernobbio. Every dish begins with the selection of the finest
taught me the basics of classic cookery. I was introduced to
ingredients, which are then transformed by the chef’s innovative
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