INSIDE PREMIERE ISSUE
"To be honest I did not choose to style men."
50 Style Editor Edlene Cabral talks about her career as an editor and freelance fashion stylist, how she landed the job, and what is it like to be working in one of the best men’s fashion magazines in the Philippines, Garage.
Edlene Cabral’s cover and inside photos by Ronan Capili
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Photographer LJ Pasion gives his insight about Photojournalism versus Fashion Photography.
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Features Editor Francis Carandang talks about Hedi Slimane’s fashion revolution as he changes the industry’s landscape as much as he’s changing the famous YSL to Saint Laurent Paris.
Fashion editorial showcasing the works of designer Joseph Aloysius
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Photo above by LJ Pasion: Fire, Manila December, 2010
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INSIDE PREMIERE ISSUE
TOC 42 Young fashion photographer BJ Pascual shares his story on how he started as a fashion stylist to becoming one of the country’s most sought-after photographer. BJ tells us his various experiences in the industry, his creative process and what does it take to become a successful photographer.
BENJO BILLONES Editorial and Creative Director IRISH GAIL DEGALA Managing Editor MARK FRANCIS CARANDANG Features Editor BYRON HENRY SANTIAGO Contributing Art Director MARY WHITNEY BALLEN Contributing Photographer AHMAD TANJI Contributing Writer CONTRIBUTORS Roko Arceo, Ronan Capili, Geric Cruz, Juliana Cruz, Bea De Jesus, Jhobes Estrella, Carla Gumin, Filbert Kung, Beny Reginaldo, Samantha Sales, Diana Santos, Althea Siapno PLUS Magazine is a quarterly digital magazine of PLUS Interactive; bearing a commitment in promoting the world of fashion, arts, and design to our readers–individuals of creative minds who aspire to be in this industry of visual culture– PLUS Magazine has a team of experienced media practitioners and staple list of contributors who deliver valuable content about established ways on how to get into the business of craftsmanship. PLUS is conceived for an audience in the passion for developing of skills and open sensibility towards anything that is ‘NEW’. The key role is to inspire and educate the readers with our epigrammatic opinion columns, intelligent reportage and exclusively produced thematic pages inserted in a minimalist but extremely refined context with a great attention to detail to set benchmark for integrated ideas.
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PHOTO BY KATRINA REDONDO
The Editor’s Letter It has always been my dream to come up with a publication of my own, and I will be forever grateful that I live in this era, enabling me to produce one in a digital platform. Of course, having my first magazine printed would be the ultimate dream. Nothing beats the smell of a freshly opened magazine, that certain texture you feel in every print, and that sense of excitement of what is next as you flip the pages. But for now, I am thankful I have a medium to share stories to inspire different people. PLUS Magazine took more than a year to be birthed. Well, aside from the fact that everyone in the team has day jobs, it takes so much time, energy and yes, money to produce one issue of a magazine. Along with the excitement, drama, stress and exhaustion, what kept everyone on the team motivated is that we share a common passion to inspire others. And that is what I am most proud of. PLUS, as the title suggests, is a magazine that goes beyond what common glossies offer. Instead of celebrities, it features people who work “behind the camera.” We go to a deeper understanding of their creative process, their struggles and their plan on how to move forward. PLUS does not dictate what is good and not good. It is a platform where everyone can share their crafts, and a space where young creatives can show their art. It is our goal to share our knowledge, what we have learned so far in the arts and fashion industry, and also learn from you! We want to build a community of creative minds that are not afraid to help each other to not become casualties of these industries, but instead become a “plus” in it. PLUS is a result of passion and inspired action, and we aim to spread and share this to all of you. Welcome to our premiere issue!
BENJO BILLONES Editorial and Creative Director
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ARCHIVES ANYTHING BEAUTIFUL
16 As an answer to the current challenges facing contemporary art in Asia, Hugo Boss Art has been launched to award emerging Chinese artists, through an exhibit showcasing their masterpieces.
10 Beautifully curated pieces, from fashion to art: Lacoste presents its Fall/Winter 2014 collection through the new Lacoste LIVE girls - Golden Heart, Poison Ivy, and Ivy on Ice; Tomato Time, the watch line of the local retail brand Tomato, releases its latest collection, the Struktur Series; Our Managing Editor gives us a review on Domino: The Book of Decorating, plus a special feature on Bungalow 300’s lovely home pieces.
Acting Out Artist by Hu Xiangqian, Hugo Boss Asia Art
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Lacoste Live Fall/Winter 2014 Editor: Irish Degala
Uber feminine, even when she shamelessly loots her boyfriend’s wardrobe, the LACOSTE L!VE girl spends the winter with headphones screwed on. She is a true 80s groupie who knows her stuff and is not afraid to slink into a clinging new style of polo dress, jeans or a multi-pocketed skirt. The LACOSTE L!VE girl is preppy but never a ‘good girl’, and loves 50s rebels and New Wave prints. She does not give up on coziness and casually slips on oversized knits, loose sailor tops and washed canvas boy’s shirts. Her key outerwear pieces vary from the college boy’s varsity to the bad boy’s bomber jacket. GOLDEN HEART She is a sexy tomboy in her new ultra-fitted all-over snakeskin prim polo dress, whose pattern can also be found on the collar and cuffs of the classic polo. Gold finishes appear on the croc logo or as stripes across a loose sailor top, which could very well have been stolen from a boy’s closet. The textured knits, featuring large stripes, and shirts decorated by bleach spots, are items to be worn under a hoodie or a 4-pocket oversized jacket. Color contrasts play with primary-like blue, green and red, and subdued pink, grey and beige. Materials are piqué, printed jerseys, chambray, denim, fleece and gold lurex. Key items are a new polo dress, a chambray shirt, skin-tight jeans and a boyfriend’s sailor top.
POISON IVY The good girl is not that good in this theme that echoes the boy’s collection. For a trip to Hyannis Port, she wears a sailor top or a dress version of it that is ruched at the waist but also cotton and wool mix polo shirts with lace collars that she teams up with a green and blue argyle sweater. The 50s rebel college girl is thrilled to see that the collection offers watermark prints, a boy’s bomber jacket, heavily colored denims and a zipped hoodie. Colors are emerald green, navy or electric blue, dark burgundy, to be worn with putty, black or grey. Materials are piqué plays with lace, poplins, jerseys, fleece, Merino and dyed denim. Key items are a watermark printed skirt, an argyle sweater, boxy cardigans, a duffle coat and a nylon bomber jacket. IVY ON ICE The preppy spirit warms up and honors tartan and large wrapping knits. A long sleeved-polo and a sweater bearing two retro L are branded with sporty stripes at the sleeves. A loose lozenge-knit cardigan plays with stripes and a piqué motif, and a 6-pocket skirt is cut from warm velvet. An oversized varsity jacket with a double L patch gives a masculine touch to a pale blue chambray shirt-dress featuring a tennis racket print. Colors are beige and grey, which are wintery. Subdued blue and burgundy are jazzed up by a touch of pink. Materials are chambray, piqué, chunky textured knits, velvet, flannel tartan and denim. Key items are a technical puffer jacket, a shirt dress, a varsity jacket, double L sweaters and polo shirts. LEATHER GOODS Two small shoulder bags, cut in green, vibrant blue and raspberry velvet leather, come in vintage volumes with an off-white strap and gold finish metallic details. The small leather goods are also very feminine, with their soft edges and leather strap-finished zips.
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Lacoste L!ve is located at New Glorietta & Rustan’s Tower Shangri-La Plaza Mall www.plusmagonline.com | PREMIERE ISSUE
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Tomato Time Struktur SERIES Photographs courtesy of Tomato
Filipino retail brand Tomato officially launched its watch line Tomato Time August of 2012, with initial branches in SM City Southmall and Alabang Town Center. After more than a year, Tomato Time has grown into 25 more branches and will be opening additional 15 more kiosks this year. The sucess of the brand lies on the quality of their watches, offering a 1 year warranty service on mechanism and battery, and its affordability with prices ranging from P500 to P1200 only. As the brand grows, Tomato Time releases different series of watches with various features. One of these is their Struktur Series. This special collection offers a solid stainless steel straps with a special tin can packaging. Struktur’s price points are from P1000 to P1200 only. Available in all Tomato stores and Tomato Time kiosks. Also available in www.tomato.ph
STRUKTUR RUSSET WATCH
CORPORATE ICON WATCH
Men’s round faced watch with black dial and copper accents, featuring a silver strap, numbered bezel, three-hand time and deployment clasp fastening.
Square faced men’s and ladies’ steel watch with silver numberless dial and sun rays pattern, featuring gold hands, bezel, and button.
P1200, tomato.ph
P1200, couples watch, tomato.ph
All Tomato Time watches comes with: 1 year warranty on mechanism and battery | Japan movement and battery | quality stainless steel buckle and case back | Silver plated quality metal case | stylish tomato time box or tin can. You can check all current designs at www.tomato.ph. 12 PREMIERE ISSUE | www.plusmagonline.com
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THE BOOK OF DECORATING Editor: Irish Degala
This book is powerhouse by its 272 pages, it goes through the basics sharing ways to find inspiration through magazines and finding out just what individual style is—how to think about the actual space one has, take an inventory of what to have, then to draw up a budget and come up with the items that will complete a room. A look book on creating beautiful home, giving how-to advices and insiders’ secrets from today’s premier tastemakers and style editors’ culling insights from their own experiences as they take readers room by room—tapping the best ideas.
Photographs by designsponge.com
Each chapter shares information about each room of a house that most apartments/homes have such as the foyer, living room, dining room, kitchen, bedroom and bath, office space, and kids’ room. The back of the book has a little handbook of useful information such as drapery styles and definitions, basic upholstery definitions and the basics of pillow design. With an eye to making design accessible and exciting, demystifying the decorating process and provides the tools for making spaces that are personal, functional and fabulous by loads of exciting photographs covering a wide spectrum of styles about designing living spaces. Domino: The Book of Decorating: A Roomby-room Guide to Creating a Home that Makes You Happy by Deborah Needleman, Sara Ruffin Costello, Dara Caponigro / Simon & Schuster, Oct 14, 2008
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bungalow 300 Editor: Irish Degala | Photograph from Bungalow 300
A mix of modern and traditional home pieces, Bunaglow 300 offers a wide variety of furnitures and decors perfect for any space at home or at the office. Above is an Acacia console buffet with ceramic vases on top, combined with an ottoma with Tinalak fabric cover. Painting by Allan Balisi. Bungalow 300 is located at No. 7 Buencamino Street, Alabang, Muntinlupa City; Contact (02) 519 3143 www.plusmagonline.com | PREMIERE ISSUE
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HUGO BOSS ART ASIA
Editor: Irish Degala
HUGO BOSS ASIA ART has been launched in the context of China and the company’s global arts program. The inaugural award is devoted to emerging Chinese artists, originating in or coming from Greater China. A full educational and research program has been drawn up to further explore the intellectual and social potential of the exhibit that reflect the current challenges, facing contemporary art in Asia. Some 400 international guests from all over the world attended the cocktail event in celebration of the exhibition opening at the NIB building which is situated close to the Rockbund Art Museum in the Rockbund area in Shanghai. Among renowned curators, like Alexandra Munroe from the Guggenheim Museum in New York, the guests included many renowned artists like Ding Yi. The finalists of the HUGO BOSS ASIA ART Award are: Birdhead, (Shanghai), Hsu Chiawei (Taipei), Hu Xiangqian (Beijing), Kwan Sheung Chi (Hong Kong), Lee Kit (Hong Kong, Taipei), Li Liao (Shenzhen), Li Wei (Beijing). They presented their works at the Rockbund Art Museum in a group exhibition which lasted until December 8, 2013. For more information, please visit www.hugobossasiaart.com On this page: Birdhead; Li Lao; Li Wei; LIght of a Thousand Autumns Opposite page: Break Up A Piece Of Short Thread by Kwan Shueng Chi; Li Wei’s piece; I’m Calm by Lee Kit 16 PREMIERE ISSUE | www.plusmagonline.com
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VIEWS INSIGHTS AND IDEAS
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A article on Hedi Slimane’s fashion rebellion as he reigned the empire of the new Saint Laurent Paris
23 Features Editor Francis Carandang discusses the trends of Spring/Summer 2014 as he picks the best collections from Milan, Paris and London Fashion Weeks.
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fashion or journ? PHOTOGRAPHS BY LJ PASION
Photographer LJ Pasion gives his insight on the relevance of both worlds - what does it take to be a good photographer and what are the odds of becoming a journalist or a fashion lensman.
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How did you get into photography? Why did you decide to pursue this? I first started taking pictures with a digital pointand-shoot camera back in 2006. It was mostly just to chronicle my travels inside and outside the country. They were mostly just touristy shots. In 2008, I got a job as a writer/photographer for a website dealing with poverty and disability issues, and that’s when I discovered photojournalism. I wouldn’t say I was already a photojournalist then, but the idea of telling stories about relevant issues through pictures really appealed to me. Around the same time, I was influenced by a friend who worked for an environmental organization and used photography to highlight the issues they are campaigning about. I knew then that I wanted to be a photojournalist. On Christmas that same year, I got my first DSLR, and started to research more about the basics of photography. The website I was working for shut down in early 2009. That was when I started pursuing photography full time. On July 2010, I landed a position as a photo correspondent for the Manila Bulletin, then became a staff member eight months later. Now I’m back to freelancing.The process wasn’t easy, for sure. It took a lot of practice and criticism for me to get better. Even now, I’m still learning.
Who are your favorite photographers? (local/ international)
Fashion photography is all about, well, fashion. Photojournalism is a lot broader.
International: John Stanmeyer, Michael Nichols, Alex Webb, Lynsey Addario; Local: Luis Liwanag, Veejay Villafranca, John Javellana, Jes Aznar, Little Wing Luna, and a bunch of others How do you perceive fashion? I really don’t have much of an opinion about fashion. Personally, my fashion sense is very simple and utilitarian. Of course, I know that for some people, fashion is a means of self-expression. Which is a good thing. A lot of our readers are more inclined into fashion, can you elaborate more what photojournalism is really all about? It’s basically storytelling through pictures. And by storytelling, I mean things that are actually happening around us. They can be photographs of big news events or simple human interest stories. Photojournalism isn’t staged. Truth and accuracy are important factors in photojournalism. Having worked with one of the country’s largest newspapers, you are exposed to both worlds. What do you enjoy doing more and why? My only experience in fashion photography is covering a few fashion shows back when I was with the newspaper. I have no experience in doing fashion shoots in studios or anything like that. So I don’t know much about fashion photography. My passion is really photojournalism, but fashion is another branch of photography that I wouldn’t mind exploring if given the chance. And I did enjoy covering those fashion shows. I like the colors, the flowing textiles, the lights... It was quite fun. And I’d certainly welcome the opportunity to do it again.
On this page: Metrowear Fashion Show, November 2012 Opposite page: Tondo, Manila, APRIL 2011; Little Nuns, Myanmar, March 2010
In some sense, both practices present what is current, relevant for the season. it represents the culture of the era we are in today. How do you differentiate these worlds? I think it’s like apples and oranges. Fashion photography is all about, well, fashion. Photojournalism is a lot broader.
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Like I said, it’s all about what’s happening around us. It may be about politics, crime, environment, culture, economy, health, or anything at all. I’m not saying one field of photography is better than the other. They’re just different. Given the superficial world of fashion, do you think it makes fashion photography less relevant than photojournalism? Why? Well, I think fashion photography has a particular target audience, and that is fashion enthusiasts. Photojournalism is aimed at the general public, and aims to educate them about current events (or sometimes even past ones). So if by “relevant” you mean helping in the development of society, then yes, I think photojournalism is the more “relevant” of the two. But like I said, they’re two different fields. People can be a fan of both at the same time, like different genres of music. What do you hate about these two? I don’t know. Dealing with deadlines, perhaps. Any advice to aspiring photographers out there (may it be in fashion or journalism)? I’m sure this is the most common advice of all, but I’ll say it anyway: shoot, shoot, and shoot some more. There’s really nothing that can take the place of practice. Share your work. No sense in keeping it in your memory card or hard drive. There are many ways to share your work online these days. Be open to criticism. Learn from your mistakes. Attending workshops are good, too. But it’s useless if you don’t keep shooting. There are a ton of other photographers out there now, whether in photojournalism, fashion, wedding or any other field. You have to look for a way to make your work stand out. Check out LJ Pasion’s works at www.ljpasion.com
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shoot,shoot and shoot some more! You have to look for a way to make your work stand out. This page: Fire, Manila, December 2010;
Islamic Fashion Festival, February 2012
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Best of the Fashion Weeks SPRING/SUMMER 2014
Features Editor Francis Carandang gathers all runway reports and picks the best of the three major fashion weeks in the world.
Milan : Prada
Photos from coolechicstylefashion.blogspot.com and senatus.net
Set in the grand murals of womanhood, Miss Prada has put upon herself to invite dialogue on “femininity, representation, power and multiplicity.” With the runway as her arsenal, she put forth arresting masterpieces that are indubitable statements on the current political landscape and the fashion industry. Not known to compromise aesthetic choices for the sake of commerce, Prada this season used the mural’s exact images to represent different women that, more than reflect the multicultural background of the muralists , brings about a sense of identity and community. This is carried on the eclectic collection comprised of pleated skirts, embellished shift dresses and brassieres, princess coats, and rugby socks — all conglomerated into confident fashion guerrilla looks. The strong contrast of the pieces is melded with a color palette reflective of the vibrant street murals. Through the inquisitive hands of Prada, the bold statement pieces have become her artistic canvasses for her perspectives on femininity and politics. The irreverence and power are imbued in the pieces themselves.
There’s always sense of subversion found in Prada’s collections, but this season she has finally voiced out a rally cry that pushes fashion into the socio-political realm. Hence, a transcendental inclusivity is evoked in the runway, giving depth and a course for dialogue to an industry deemed detached and superficial. www.plusmagonline.com | PREMIERE ISSUE
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london : tom ford Tom Ford had a rich history on shaping fashion during his Gucci years. Reinventing the brand with each season yet maintaining its provocative design was the key to his success in its reinvigoration. There is, however, the question of whether he could keep up with the streaks of his successes after quitting the industry and maintaining a low profile away from the much publicized catwalk frenzy of the fashion months . With last season, his return has been heralded as a comeback on the runway, but instead, Tom Ford presented a blaring set of looks that, while showcased his talent for excess, appeared to be a discombobulated decadence more than anything. This only brought about questions on whether Tom Ford is prime for another streak at the runway. Fast forward to his Spring-Summer 2014 collection, Tom Ford proved that he’s a force to be reckoned with an all-glam, sexed up runway this season. Models strutted with brown leather cocoons, sleek monochromatic leather ensembles, bondage latticeworks, and show-stopping mirror mosaic pieces unequivocally effused with distinctive Tom Ford codes . There is a sense of boldness and seductive allure that’s reminiscent of his early years in Gucci . What sets this collection apart, however, from his earlier collections is the transformative influence of the collection. All looks forged a seductive magnetism that exude the otherworldly, almost to a point of transcendence. With Tom Ford, however, rooted in the idea of the unfettered feminine, the curves and very identity of women were maintained with this collection. The “alien” collection was grounded and shaped on a woman. It acted as reinforcement and armor rather than as a distraction. As this season is about the feminine identity , Tom Ford, on a parallel course, found himself again and was in control of the brand’s true roots and aesthetic. No longer plagued with identity crises , Tom Ford changed things up and envisioned spring 2014 for an assertive and empowered woman ready to conquer worlds. 24 PREMIERE ISSUE | www.plusmagonline.com
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paris : miu miu
Photographs by Monica Feudi, Feudiguaneri.com
Miu Miu always had the instincts and sensibility that seem to coalesce with the zeitgeist . Indeed as Miu Miu this season seized the opportunity to take part in the postmodern appropriation of the retro. However, rather than succumb to referential evocations, Miu Miu reinvigorates the yesteryear with the clash of styles and colors and deconstruction and reconstruction of the classic. It is ostensibly a collection hive full of contradictions, but under the intellectual craftsmanship of Miuccia Prada all seems to be in order, elusively so. It is perhaps most notable for its wallpaper/ origami paper prints that immediately capture this generation’s preoccupation with the retro heydays. The prints are composed of a zany cast of flora and fauna as if to suggest a certain naivetÊ and blown up to a high resolution and proliferated repetitively with gusto throughout its single breasted coats and knee-high cowboy boots. The collection is mainly composed of passive and dainty silk dresses, A-line skirts, and single breasted coats. These , however, are broken down with unconventional textures lined with vinyl and suede, beaded and fringed thoughtfully - bringing once again an indulgent combination of clothing antitheses. These are rounded up with cable knit leggings, Mary Janes, chunky heels, and cowboy boots as spirited as its clothing - bejeweled, multi-colored, with patterns and prints. There was a certain illusory quality to Miu Miu’s spring summer collection. The innocence of eras passed was evaluated to indulge in its uproarious elements . The collection was a restatement of the classic, the epoch of girlhood, a celebration of the fun that has been shoe-horned in favor of restraint and the minimal. There are blaring contradictions in the collection, but perhaps these was brought about by years of constrained and delimited point of view on fashion. With this collection, Miu Miu had to tear down classic and create chaos in order to rebuild it. In doing so, the collection, despite its subversion, vivifies the true essence of retro and fashion. www.plusmagonline.com | PREMIERE ISSUE
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the new saint laurent BY MARK FRANCIS CARANDANG For the second outing of his campaign, Hedi Slimane has set the world abuzz. From contentious provocateurs of 90’s rock the likes of Courtney Love and Marilyn Manson to the techno thaumaturge dyad of Daft Punk, Slimane shot these intransigent icons on his signature monochromatic imagery. Paired with them is current model cum it girl, Cara Delevingne, who has been tapped to listlessly sport his ensemble with the disheveled and catatonic look, mirroring the raucous played up by the artistes. Since then, Slimane has kept with his stoic aesthetic getting Sky Ferreira, Jeff Bugg, Natalie Westling, Nastya Sten, and Jeff Fribourg for his recent collections. This direction doesn’t necessarily hold back the brand. In fact, with his deft eye for images, he uses the same unsettling indifference to capture the nuanced intensity of youth in revolt. This is the present Saint Laurent with a fashion anarchist at the helm. With his incisive branding instincts, his campaigns matched the entire hubbub surrounding his collections for the rechristened Yves Saint Laurent, or rather Saint Laurent Paris. With their dressed-down grunge and punk outlook, the collections have become the object of vehemence for the fashion cognoscenti. A plethora of models slung with plaid overshirts, baby doll dresses, one shouldered asymmetrical dresses, and prints tinged with rebellious insouciance were sent down the runway. With nary a hesitation on his part, Slimane beckoned the return of grunge, of 80’s punk rock, and of his obstinate sensibilities and proclivities much to the chagrin of the fashion elite. Both collections proved to be divisive yet engagingly discursive for the industry. With most dismissing the grunge punk rebirth Slimane seem to be championing, while the others finding the collection to be reinvigorating, thought-provoking at the very least. Either way, Slimane has carved his own niche and established his perspective away from the establishment, an admirable undertaking considering that he just might alienate the few privileged who have access to his line.
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There is the case, however, of his influence as a photographer and designer. He has an entire rolodex to herald in the new Saint Laurent. Enter Christopher Owens, Love, Manson, Ariel Pink, Daft Punk, and Jeff Bugg all musicians who have garnered notoriety and accolades for being authentic rock stars. The reactions have varied from admirers promoting the brand for tapping them for his campaigns, regardless of his collection, to cynics decrying the move as a cheap publicity ploy. It certainly struck a chord as cacophonous plaudits and criticisms came flooding in beating other brands with social buzz. It doesn’t hurt that his collection is selling well because of these. Hedi Slimane is not the only one who seems to value reactions more than his aesthetic choices. Tom Ford in his first runway collection in years sent down dissonant and disparate graphic prints and a hodge-podge of colors that invoke an ethnic lysergic trip, but more importantly puts into question his tastes as a designer. It didn’t get much reaction as Saint Laurent did, but in an interview, Ford might have insinuated that his collection, like Slimane’s, is all about the reactions it generates. With social networking media at its height, focus has shifted away from the construction, detail, and workmanship of clothing and now has been diverted and debased to mere social media semantics. From comments to a meager page view, these constructs have become seemingly the sole basis from which a brand’s worth and value is gauged. Savvy man that he is, Slimane has taken advantage of this and has been reaping the benefits however dissenting the opinions for his collections are.
His collections are not without their merits though. Given his complicated relationship with critics, Slimane overturned the dynamics from the elite and created a fashion revolution, a mighty statement from a man who just started his reign just a season ago. More than just bring back the grunge and punk rock, Saint Laurent is about the democratization and accessibility of fashion, however facile the statement is. The prices of course are still sold at exorbitant prices despite their ostensible “accessibility.” Or perhaps, he just wanted to re-assert an anti-“fashion” stance that muffles the establishment’s voice and control of an industry that is not without politics. With that, he might have succeeded. What’s interesting about Slimane’s rebellion is that it seems to come at a right time when the industry has started a debate on the viability and strength of street fashion. With his innate styling sensibilities, he seems to have captured the young contingent of street fashion bloggers who all have a knack for combining vintage clothing and prints from common thrift stores to high street labels. This trend has become worrying for industry heavyweights as the legitimacy of fashion has become diluted with them surging through runway shows and with self-styled blogs becoming the bases for taste. All of these are echoed in Slimane’s creations, mixing simple silhouettes and prints with luxe materials and harkening back to his love of vintage YSL and the heydays of grunge and punk. This move has allowed him to create an alternative platform for the section of fashion long deemed negligible and giving voice and strength to a whole new perspective in fashion. With the notoriety and reputation he has established for himself and Saint Laurent, it’s now up to Slimane to live up to the promise of his revolution or become complacent with the comforts of social media hype. Whatever the perceived vision of Saint Laurent is, Hedi Slimane is without a doubt changing the landscape of the fashion from the ground up, just as much as he’s changing the well-known YSL to Saint Laurent Paris.
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PROFILES PEOPLE YOU NEED TO KNOW
42 BJ Pascual takes us to his world of fashion photography as he shares in experiences and inspirations.
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30 Let’s get to know one of the rising local indie band We Are Imaginary (formerly known as Your Imaginary Friends).
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Samantha Sales of Dreamlist.ph shares the inspiring story Marco Lobregat, on how he evolved from modeling to being the owner of Ministry of Mushrooms.
WE ARE IMAGINARY Photographs by Mawhi Ballen Styling by Benjo Billones
Indie pop band Your Imaginary Friends had to change their name due to some copyright issues. Of course, the simplest and most cost-effective way to deal with this is just change the band name and start fresh! Now officialy known as We Are Imaginary, they are set to offer new sound to their fans and followers. Let’s get to know the band more, their challenges, and what is their creative process like. How will you describe your music? Eric: It’s music for the post-fight make-out sessions. But it has to be a big fight, where lovers are crying buckets of boohoo and whatnot. Ahmad: It’s the best soundtrack for hazy morning afters. Eric: And the make-out session during hazy morning afters. 30 PREMIERE ISSUE | www.plusmagonline.com
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You’ve been in the industry for quite a while now, how is it like starting? How did you become a group? Eric: We have been in the industry? Ahmad: You have to start from scratch. There is more openness to all music here in Manila, compared to Bicol, where we come from, so our music easily finds its niche here. People who are looking for their new personal theme songs find us serendipituously. And that’s braving a scene that at times can be overly saturated with a lot of bands that it’s pretty hard to get heard. Thankfully, we slowly rose from obscurity out of hard work and plain joy of writing and playing our songs. Tell us, what are the struggles of starting in such a competitive industry? Ahmad: The struggle is to be different without being too self-indulgent. You have a lot of great bands that can have the same derivative sound as you guys have, so what can you offer that will make you stand out? Those are serious questions that every serious band should answer without citing “just having fun” as their default defense. Anyone can start a band, but longevity always depend on how passionate you are. And how creative you can be. Eric: I guess, it’s initially getting our music out and finding the ears and hearts that would actually like what we came up with. Then the long road to a wider audience follows. “Your Silence is a Villain” has been out for quite some time now (more than a year). What did it take so long for the new EP to be released?
Eric: It’s just over a year. Does that make it old? Updharma Down’s releases are, like, 5 years apart or something. But I believe we have enough stop gap measures that fill the void. We are still an interesting act, I believe. Ahmad: It is easy to record and release songs if you don’t have other priorities like jobs and children. Songs are piling up, but we can’t automatically release them as much as we want to because there are financial constraints. That’s the price of being an unsigned band. On the other hand, it does help in letting the songs mature naturally so there won’t be any regrets when it is put out. You recently launched the music video of Baby You’re Going to Hell. Tell us more about the song and the video. Ahmad: The song has been written in Bicol years ago even before the band was conceptualized. It was my unsuccessful attempt to do a Graham Coxon. Eric: Unsuccessful because he’s already Damon Albarn. Ahmad: A Damon Albarn doing a barn dance in a cheerleader’s suit. What is your creative process like? Who writes the songs? Ahmad: We are sort of like a songwriter’s band. Eric or I would normally write the lyrics and basic melody then we will present it to the band where we’ll jam it over and see if the tempo and progression fits. We are planning to do more songs inspired by jamming though and see if it can elicit the feel that we are looking for.
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+ PROFILES
How do you see your music evolving? What will YIF be like in 5 years? Ahmad: If you listen to our 1st EP (One Dreamy Indeterminate Hum, under Lilystars Record) and compare it to our latest EP (Silence is a Villain), you will notice the sudden shift in terms of mood and overall sound. Our songs revolve around the basic spectrum of the “Pop” genre, but we do not limit ourselves to one “feel”. That said, the new songs are happier. And we hope that when we release a new album, it can reach new ears from far-away places too. This music is meant to be heard, man. Eric: In five years, we will still be playing music. That’s for sure. Our shoot was kind of different from the usual “fun-pop” image that you have. How do you feel about it?
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Ahmad: It feels good to look good. Everyone in the band has their ideal “fashion” look, and I think you guys did an awesome job pulling them up and capturing them in static. You make us look magazine-worthy. Eric: I am actually incorporating the learnings I had into my OOTD. I now have the gall to say OOTD. Shameless, you made me. What can you say to aspiring musicians out there? Any advice? Ahmad: Know your strengths and take it from there. Don’t try hard to please anyone because it can compromise true creativity. Your passion will reflect on the way you write and the way you perform. It will be your meal ticket. Eric: Keep practicing. And don’t do drugs.
+ PROFILES
RISING BEAUTY ARTIST
BENY REGINALDO Photograph (left) by Benjo Billones
Beauty stylist Beny Reginaldo gives us an insight on his life as a young makeup artist who tries to get into the industry of fashion and arts with his ability to transform “ordinary-looking” individuals into dazzling gorgeous personas.
How did you start as a makeup artist? It was in our photography class back in college. During that time I really don’t have that enough budget to get my own makeup artist, so I tried doing make up on my own and putting it on my blockmates before taking their photos. Since then my interest with makeup grew until now. Do you have any formal training in a makeup school? I am a self-thought makeup artist. I learn doing makeup from video tutorials and trying those out when I have a friend who is willing to be my subject and doing it during our free time in our college days. As a kid, did you see yourself doing this craft? I really didn’t see myself as a makeup artist and maybe because back in the days, people usually stereotype someone who does makeup as
“parlorista,” but now lakas maka sosyal pag tinatawag ka ng MUA, haha! But I never really planned this, so I believe God has a plan for me. Who’s your beauty icon? Well I idolized those international beauty gurus/ Youtubers and celebrity makeup artists who are really nice and not afraid of sharing their tips and techniques to everyone (e.g. Michelle and Promise Phan, Wayne of gossmakeupartist, Mally Roncal, Mario Dedivanovic and local Gurus like Noe, Ana Patricia and Say Tioco etc.), and Filipino makeup artists like Fanny Serrano and Anton Patdu. Well in my opinion they are all my beauty icons for they really strived hard to be where they are right now.
I find both of them really stunning and very pretty. But right now I am very thankful that I am able to do the makeup of normal and e eryday people, transforming them into their celebrity style looks. Do you see yourself doing the same craft in the future? Yes, I really see myself doing this craft for as long as my hands are working. I guess this is one of the things that will never ever bore me.
Photograph above by Mark Chito
Given the chance to do someone’s makeup, who would it be? I guess I would love to do Kim Kardasian and Miranda Kerr’s makeup. www.plusmagonline,com | PREMIERE ISSUE www.plusmagonline.com
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Interview by Samantha Sales Photographed by Filbert Kung Styled by Roko Arceo Grooming by Diana Santos
MARCO LOBREGAT
There are people who prefer to learn by experience. They dare to leap, they take risks, they learn from failure and they succeed big time. People like Marco Lobregat of Ministry of Mushrooms is one of those who are simply driven by passion. After college, I had so many options. I was doing modeling at that time, and if I wanted to pursue that, I could have gone down that path. But If you look at the world, I felt like, there were so many things to explore. I’m a very experiential person. And I realized, it depends how At 21, 22.. I had no clue what I wanted you learn. As for me, there’s nothing like to do. I wanted to leave. I just wanted to traveling to teach me about life. leave the country that time, just because for 8 years, I didn’t leave. But I had so You don’t have to think of your career as many things in mind. I wanted to do a one track. Like for me, I did modeling, I went into Journalism, and I studied sales. lot of things. If there’s one thing that you learn from my experiences, it is that you have to learn how to roll with the punches and create your own destiny. You are the product of the choices that you make and the actions that you take.
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Before, I was working for Japan Times and China Daily, I had to stay at one place for four months at a time, and I was doing it for 5 years, to create country reports. I went to Kuwait, India, Hong Kong, Dubai, Czech Republic, Macau, Australia, Ukraine, and Japan. In one whole year, I was out of my home and living somewhere else. You have to be flexible with your decisions in life, but you also have to learn to commit and stick to it. I’ve always been entrepreneurial. Through my work, I learned the value of corporate social responsibility. So when you sell your products, you don’t sell for the sake of it. If you are, then you’re selling them a sham. Instead, you should sell them something that can be actually useful to society. Ministry of Mushrooms is really my passion. It’s a passion, deep deep within me. And my passion will continue. It’s very important that you know who your partners are. For those who want to pursue entrepreneurship. I didn’t know back then that I was going to grow mushrooms. I just know before that I wanted to put up a business. And I have a friend who has experience in growing them. But you know, you got to listen to the signs. One of the things I would like to accomplish is to build a mushroom industry here in the Philippines, that is world class. And to harness the potential of that industry, to change the world and make it more positive. I have a knack for getting up. Whatever the risk is, I take it. Even when the numbers don’t seem to work, I tell myself, I will make it work. I take big risks, but I have big failures also. But at the end of the day, I know better. I just can’t accept not going with something that feels right.
Special thanks to Dreamlist.ph for this interview www.dreamlist.ph/words-of-wisdom/marco-lobregat
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There’s a trend nowadays that everyone is ME ME ME. MY destiny. MY decisions. MY goals. They’ve forgotten about the company that they’re working for. You want to apply for a company where you can make a difference. If you can’t bring anything to the table, then why the hell are you gonna work with them? And why the hell do you want to be enslaved by work you don’t enjoy? It is sad because they’re gonna try to continue making you try to do something you don’t want to do anyway. So think about what you’re gonna be doing. When you’re in a job, try to take something from it but always try to give something back. Do that before you ever consider leaving. For some people, it’s okay for them to push paper, and there’s nothing wrong with that. A position where you don’t have to make decisions, you just have to coordinate. It’s your choice. But make it an active choice. Don’t apply for a job just because that’s the easiest or that’s available. If it feels right, if it looks right in paper, if you feel like you can do something for them, then why not?
The bigger the failure, the bigger the lesson it brings and themore I can move forward.
On this page: Photographed by Filbert Kung Styled by Jhobes Estrella Grooming by Carla Gumin
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e h t f o t uc d o r p e h t e h t “You are d n a e k a m u o y s e choic ” . e k a t u o actions y
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I think the younger generation is more passionate. People at my age, 30s and 40s, we are a generation that is trying to gap an old school of doing things and the new way of doing things. We went through rapid changes. From no cellphone, to having a cellphone, to getting an iPhone. The difference that it makes is tremendous. It changes the mindset of people. The way they think and process information. You can even say that people are much nicer nowadays. They’re more connected, even in the workplace. Not to say that it’s no longer formal, but it is much nicer to work in a place where people are more positive and more passionate, that they want to make a difference. Listen to your family. Even if what they’re saying does not support you, understand that they’re always coming from a place of wisdom and genuine concern. Try to see their perspective, but don’t let it stop you. If you’re in a relationship, it doesn’t mean you don’t get to pursue what you want. If those two things are important to you, you can make it work. It’s not an either, or. You can always figure something out. Reaching your goal and doing your passion doesn’t always have to be right away.But you have to keep moving towards your passion and keep trying. All your efforts should be geared towards that, even when you start from the very beginning. More than passion. It’s the attitude that matters. Anything that’s important to you, take time to do it. Take time to continue it no matter how hard it is. If it’s something you love, there’s no reason that you should not go for it.
Special thanks to Dreamlist.ph for this interview www.dreamlist.ph/words-of-wisdom/marco-lobregat www.plusmagonline.com | PREMIERE ISSUE
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WHAT DOES IT TAKE TO BE A GOOD PHOTOGRAPHER? TALENT + HARD WORK + GOOD WORK ETHICS
The man behind the camera who shoots cover after cover of the leading magazines here in the Philippines Crispulo Pascual Jr. more known as BJ Pascual tells us his story, how he started as a fashion stylist, his experience as a student in New York, and what does it take to be one of the most sought-after fashion photographers in the country.
The Lens Man
Photographs by Benjo Billones Styling by Mark Francis Carandang Grooming by Beny Reginaldo Sittings Editor Irish Degala Special thanks to Adefuin Design Studio for the location of this shoot
We read in one of your features that you actually started as a fashion stylist freelancing in some magazines, how did you get into photography? What inspired you to pursue it? Photography is my first love. I was just offered a styling gig because I and a few friends had a tshirt business that did well back then. I thought it wouldn’t hurt to try styling. Plus it was how I made my initial connections in the industry. You studied fashion photography in New York (Parsons, FIT, and ICP), how was the experience like? What was your greatest lesson that you learned from there? New York, in general, opened my eyes to a lot of new things. I think the greatest lesson that I learned from studying there is that your ideas are your most important asset. It’s one thing to know how all the technical stuff, but there are a million other photographers who know all lighting theories and techniques. So it’s really one’s ideas, concepts, imagination that will set one apart from the rest. Who are your favorite (local/international) photographers? Among the greats, I love the powerful simplicity of Richard Avedon’s work, Helmut Newton’s hypersexy images, Peter Lindbergh’s narratives, and Bruce Weber’s spontaneity. My current favorites are Daniel Jackson, Will Davidson and Benny Horne.
“Your ideas are your most important asset.” It’s one thing to know how all the technical stuff, but there are a million other photographers who know all lighting theories and techniques.
How would you describe your style in photography? I wouldn’t know! How would you describe it? Haha Where do you get your inspiration? Anywhere, really! Inspiration can come from a line in a self-help book I just read, characters from random movies, or even a color of a wall that i see while walking down the street. It could really be from anything and anywhere. 44 PREMIERE ISSUE | www.plusmagonline.com
Opposite Page: DU Manille Jacket, Margiela Silver Top, Tomato Time Watch, Tomato Boots, Levis Black Pants
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Dunk & Stylish Brown Trench, Tomato Black Buttoned Shirt, Dries Van Noten Suede/ Leather Brogues, Levis Black Pants, Tomato Time Watch 46 PREMIERE ISSUE | www.plusmagonline.com
Assymetrical knitted sweater by Margiela
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What is your creative process? For editorials, when an idea pops up I would usually pitch it to a stylist that I know could execute the idea(or the stylist can come up with an idea and pitch it to me) then we exchange ideas and solidify the concept. I usually make a moodboard before the shoot so everyone gets the vibe that I want for a particular shoot. After shooting, I usually lay the pages out myself, it’s up to the magazine if they want to follow my layout or not. I usually put a mock title on the sample layout instead of a “lorem ipsum” lately my fake titles have been making it to print so I’m happy about that haha!
Among all of the photos that you’ve taken, what is your most favorite? Why? It’s so hard to choose just one. But I think one of my absolute favorites is a photo from a series I did for a my friend, designer Ciege Cagalawan (who’s now based in New York),Oddly enough, the shot is completely out of focus, and so you can only see a blurred silhouette of the model, wearing a voluminous shift dress, and her afro shaped like a cylinder. I love the shape it created, it made her head look almost like an alien’s. To me the photo just seems so quiet and serene, even if you can’t figure out what it is at first glance.
At such a young age, you are one of the most sought-after fashion photographers in the country, do you consider yourself successful? Or is there anything else that you are aspiring for? I think success will ultimately be determined by one’s longevity in the industry and the quality of work one produces. I haven’t been in the industry for a very long time, so we’ll see!
What’s the greatest advice that you would like to give to any aspiring fashion photographers out there? Work hard and never lose sight of your vision, at least in terms of your editorial and personal work.
What does it take to be a good fashion photographer? Of course talent is important, but it wouldn’t mean anything without hard work, determination, and a good work ethic. One might be super talented, but if he is always late, isn’t willing to work long hours, and lazy, your talent becomes useless. How do you handle criticisms? Take everything with a grain of salt. Know who you are and what you want. Cause if you just follow every criticism you hear, you will end up with no identity. What was the worst shoot that you have ever done? I honestly can’t remember! Or maybe I choose to forget them cause they’re bad! Haha!
How do you see yourself in 5 years? In 5 years I’ll be 30! I can’t imagine it just yet! I guess we have to wait and see!
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A IN N’S A M D A M ORLD W Style Editor of the leading fashion and lifestyle magazine (for men) in the Philippines, Garage, Edlene Cabral started as a style assistant in the local franchise of reality show Project Runway Season 1. Now that she works not only for the magazine but for various brands and celebrities as well, how does she keep her aesthetic for men’s style given that she’s a female stylist. Let’s get to know the makings of a Style Editor. Photographs by RONAN CAPILI Interview by IRISH DEGALA
+ PROFILES
I just think of it how I want my man to look like. It should be appealing but not trying to overdo it.
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How did you get into styling? I took a short course in fashion merchandising at SOFA. On our last day of class, my friend (Kate Paras) and I were asked to be stylist’s assistant to Bea Ledesma who was the head stylist of Project Runway Philippines Season 1. Then Bea asked me to apply to his friend, Rey Ilagan, who was at the time building his editorial team for Garage magazine. And fortunately, I got the job as style assistant and the rest is history. How long have you been styling? Garage is on its ‘ 6th year, so it’s going 6 years already. How has your fashion aesthetics and perspective in styling changed since you started? When I started though I had this idea in mind, my vision is not that solid. Basically I’m just exposed into trends, and after for all the latest ITstuff. But later on I got to know myself more. I did try to experiment, try this, and that. Well it’s really like a trial and error thing. Once you got the right formula, you stick to that. And of course, learning should not stop from there. I’m still exploring other horizons up to now. Also, my aesthetic changed because my influences had gone broader and deeper. You often used male models in your fashion editorial shoots? How do you manage to style them given you are a lady? Since I work for men’s fashion magazine, I learned to deal with it. Styling guys is less complicated than girls. It’s just a matter of knowing the basics of it and then injecting of trends follows. And as much as possible I try to make it close to reality. I mean close on how the guys are really dressing up. I just think of it how I want my man to look like. It should be appealing but not trying to overdo it.
o x xo
STYLING 101 KNOW THE BASICS + INJECT THE TRENDS
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+ PROFILES
“As a fashion stylist and an editor, I would love to give great contributions to our country’s fashion industry.” Who are my favorite photographers? I don’t want to give names but obviously the photographers who I always get booked in my shoots. How would you define your personal style? Definitely, I am a minimalist. But I’m also drawn into other style. I’m also into rock and roll chic, military and the so-called laidback disheveled look when I’m feeling lazy. We’ll since I style guys most of the time, I can also tell that I also adapt the masculine look in my personal style. How do you prepare for a men’s fashion shoot? Describe your mood during typical men’s fashion editorial shoot. We’ll it’s the same with styling girls. It’s same work, you pullout clothes, you edit, you style them, then shoot. Maybe preparations are less complicated with girls since guys does not require a lot of accessories compared to girls. When shooting, I’m just pretty normal. Guys are easy to approach. Maybe because they are professional enough to respect and follow on to whatever you asked them to do. So I don’t find it hard to deal with them. What do you hope to do with your career as a fashion stylist? And what have you done so far? I am grateful with my job being an editor, and as a freelance stylist. I’m fortunate to a lot of fashion editorials, and styling projects from different clients. I just want to continue doing it and of course, do better each time. And I also as a fashion stylist and an editor, I would love to give great contributions to our (country’s) fashion industry.
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What are your favorite spots to shop? I do shop anywhere from malls even to thrift shops. There is always good finds its just that you have patience to explore. Who and what inspires you in fashion styling? Inspirations came in a random way. It can be anything like a certain event, an artwork, a fascinating location, or an interesting person. Well interesting person including my favorite people in fashion whom I look up to like Carine Roitfeld, Emmanuelle Alt, Anne-Marie Curtis, Christine Centenera and Grace Coddington. They are all editors and stylists who have great means on how to convey their strong vision on which I truly adore. Why you chose to style men? To be honest I did not choose to style men. I just landed on this job and eventually fell in love on it. And when it comes to styling them it is important to find balance on what you’re going to offer. It is good to go aspirational, but also as much as possible I want them to give them the look which that is easier to achieve and much close on to how a real guy dress up. What you have achieved so far with your work? And what else you would sill like to achieve? I am very grateful that I can share my vision and I am given freedom to give creative input through my magazine. And I’m thankful that I did styling projects to different brands, advertising and some celebrities and personalities. Though I can say that I’m still in the work in progress state but little by little I am realizing my dreams now. And I would love to stay on this platform for more years or even forever if I am still capable to do so.
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EDIT CURATED FASHION
58 Local retail brand Sune presents it’s latesT collection for Summer 2014.
32 Our take on Joseph Aloysius menswear collection worn by rising female model Althea Siapno.
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S Teal Estella Midi Dress, P1700 www.shopsune.com
Sune “For this collection, we were drawn to the colder, deeper side of nature – the darker blues of the ocean, shades of the sunset, and the mix of light and shadow. In keeping with the Sune aesthetic, the pieces remain light and comfortable but with a more polished feel. Each style is transitional, easily worn from day to night, which is a philosophy we always try to keep in mind.” - owners Bea De Jesus and Debbie Deborah P h otographs by Ge ri c Cruz M ode l e d by J ul i ana Cruz M ake up by Be a De J e sus
Mia Curved Hem Top, P1050 www.shopsune.com
Assymetrical Halter Dress, P1850 www.shopsune.com
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Matilda Layer Skirt, P1450 www.shopsune.com
Teal Lea Halter Cami, P950 www.shopsune.com
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Teal Estella Midi Dress, P1700 www.shopsune.com
Oversized embroidered vest with matching pants, Joseph Aloysius, price available upon request
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, unum vocibus mentitum sit in, ullum forensibus efficiantur eum te. Et eirmod signiferumque usu.
JOSEPH ALOYSIUS
MONTELIBANO We present to you the creations of Fashion Designer and Project Runway Philippines alumnus Joseph Aloysius Montelibano. PLUS interprets his creations, originally made for men, through rising female model Althea Siapno, photographed by PLUS’ Benjo Billones.
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Emroidered baroque tank top with matching pants, Joseph Aloysius, price available upon request
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Assymetrical satin top with vneckline , Joseph Aloysius, Price available upon request
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Emroidered baroque tank top with matching pants, Joseph Aloysius, price available upon request
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DESIGNER NAMES 101
Typography layout by Byron Santiago PLUS Magazine’s cheat sheet to help fashion fans pronounce designer names.
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