The Mayor’s Welcome Hello, As Mayor of London, I’m proud to welcome you to the latest edition of the Pocket London Guide. An invaluable source of information for all that’s going on in this fantastic city of ours and an essential pocket size insight to help you make the most of your visit. All the city’s best sights and attractions come with a handy map reference so you’ll never feel lost amid the bustling metropolis. In addition, maps of London’s most popular shopping streets are provided to ensure you’ll never miss an opportunity to visit your favourite store. We’ve got everything you could possibly want in this amazing city and in this guide we hope to be able to point you in the right direction for your specific needs. The story of London is the story of human civilisation and there’s something here for everybody. Enjoy, Boris
Boris Johnson. Mayor of London
Getting Around
Transport around London
Oyster Card
An Oyster card is a smartcard that can be topped up with pay as you go credit and is the cheapest way to pay for single journey’s on bus, tube, tram, DLR, London Overground and National Rail services in London. Adding credit: • Online at tfl.gov.uk/oyster • At Oyster Ticket Stops • At Tube and London Overground touchscreen ticket machines and station ticket offices • At London Travel Information Centres • At DLR touchscreen ticket machines • At some National Rail touchscreen ticket machines Underground signs are shown on maps and outside tube stations Oyster cards can be purchased (leaving a £5 refundable deposit) at Oyster Ticket Stops, from Tube and London Overground station ticket offices or London Travel Information Centres.
CYCLE HIRE
Barclays Cycle Hire
Take a cycle, ride it where you like, then return it, ready for the next person. Available 24 hours a day, all year round. It’s self-service and there’s no booking, best for short journeys, just turn up and go. Usage charges will be debited from your account at the end of your access period, monthly if you’ve got annual access, or when you reach the maximum usage charge of £50. When you return your cycle, make sure the green light comes on.
RIVER
Water Transport
Most river services operate every 20-60 minutes between 10.30am and 5pm but run more often and later in summer. Thames Clippers – Embankment Pier Westminster Passenger Service Association – Westminster Pier
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We Buy We have the world’s finest pre-owned wristwatches in stock, including rare vintage watches, fully serviced & guaranteed for two years. Part exchange welcome.
We Sell If you want to sell a watch, telephone now for an immediate cash offer, or visit our Royal Arcade shop. Premiums paid for watches with box & guarantee.
020 7495 4882 www.watchclub.com 4
4 Royal Arcade, 28 Old Bond Street London W1S 4SD
Editor’s Letter 2012 has been on Londoners’ minds for quite some time – ever since 2005 in fact, when the Olympic bid was confirmed. Since that time, huge swathes of East London have been transformed by star architects like Zaha Hadid, while the public has gone into a ticket swapping frenzy. Now, as the historic year stretches ahead, another milestone looms: Queen Elizabeth II’s Diamond Jubilee. There’s a whole series of cultural events planned, beginning in the first quarter of the year with Cecil Beaton’s show of portraits at the V&A. In other words, there’s rarely been a better time to visit London. In our What’s On guide you’ll find plenty of pleasures with a little less pomp – beginning with several festivals showcasing the best in dance. It’s hard to move for blockbuster exhibitions – Picasso, Freud and Hockney to name but three – while there’s a wintry-themed showcase of Captain Scott’s Antarctic journey. Meanwhile, our handy restaurant section has endless options for passing St. Valentine’s or Mother’s Day in style, or engaging in an exciting new foodie masterclass. Once you’ve achieved your detox, you can snap up a new wardrobe thanks to our shopping shortlists. So, without further ado, let 2012 begin. We hope you enjoy the capital as much as we do, and find plenty to discover in this 55th edition of Pocket London.
Clodagh Kinsella Editor
© English Heritage. Photo Sightlines.
Contents
Issue 55 January-March 2012
WHAT’S ON 8 The top events around town this season
FEATURES David Hockney 10 The Royal Academy’s latest blockbuster
Queen Elizabeth II by Cecil Beaton 13 Delve into Beaton’s celebrated archive
The Craic! 15 The capital celebrates St. Patrick’s Day
The Pocket London Guide
3 Stewarts Court, 218 – 220 Stewarts Road, London SW8 4UB. T: 020 7720 1166 E: info@pocketlondon.com Publisher Editor Design
Rupert Saunders Clodagh Kinsella - clodagh@pocketlondon.com Thomas Hawes
Whilst every effort has been made to ensure that the information in this guide is accurate the publishers cannot accept responsibility for any inaccuracies in the information provided. Copyright Pocket London Guides Limited 2011.
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The Great Pancake Race 20 How to see in Shrove Tuesday
Image: The Great Spitalfields Pancake Race
Gourmet Masterclass 22 Become a master of the kitchen in 2012
Winter Essentials 36 Top picks for your winter wardrobe
RESTAURANTS 16 New openings; shortlists by cuisine; a perfect day’s dining out
SHOPPING 32 Shopping maps and area guides from Mayfair to Pimlico Road
SIGHTS & MUSEUMS 49 New shows and historic sights 7
What’s on With the London Olympics and the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee on the way, 2012 is set to be London’s year in the sun. Fortunately, you don’t have to wait until summer to reap the benefits, as the first quarter of the year is filled to the brim with worthy distractions: major dance festivals from flamenco to mime, a new crop of blockbuster exhibitions on British icons, and some very seasonal shows marking the centenary of Captain Scott’s voyage to Antarctica. Whether you’re into dragon dances or pints of Guinness, there’s a public festival to match – and once you’ve recovered from all that fun, it’s time to ready your elbows for a serious hunt at the January sales…
Image © Cecil Beaton
What’s On January Until 25 February
NOISES OFF The Old Vic, The Cut, London SE1, £15-£44.50, +44 (0)844 871 7628, www.oldvictheatre.com Best known for his dab hand at directing David Mamet plays, Lindsay Posner should prove an ideal match for Michael Frayn’s breakneck comedy. The award-winning classic, featuring a play-within-a-play, follows the misadventures of a shambolic theatre group. January 11–29
LONDON INTERNATIONAL MIME FESTIVAL www.mimefest.co.uk Catch performance art, object theatre and acrobatics at Europe’s leading showcase for visual theatre. Hosted across six of the capital’s key arts’ venues, highlights of mime include Wales’ NoFit State Circus, acrobatillusionist Claudio Stellato and puppeteers Blind Summit. January 21–April 8
DAVID HOCKNEY: A BIGGER PICTURE Royal Academy of Arts, Piccadilly, London W1, £3-£15.50, +44 (0)844 209 0051, www.royalacademy.org.uk
An exhibition of new large-scale landscapes by the Royal Academician. See feature overleaf. January 20–September 2
SCOTT’S LAST EXPEDITION Natural History Museum, Cromwell Road, London SW7, £5.50-£9, +44 (0)20 7942 5000, www.nhm.ac.uk Following on from the recent publication of a book of his ‘lost’ photographs, a new exhibition re-examines Scott’s fateful final voyage. Casting new light on the familiar tale, highlights include objects used by the ‘Terra Nova’ team and a life-sized recreation of their Antarctic base-camp. January 29
CHINESE NEW YEAR www.chinatownlondon.org Usher in the Year of the Dragon as thousands flock to central London to celebrate the start of the Chinese New Year. Head to Trafalgar Square at noon for a launch featuring acrobats and live performers, and then join the Chinatown crowds savouring cultural displays and authentic cuisine. 9
What’s On March March 8-September 30
TITANIC REMEMBERED National Maritime Museum, Romney Rd, London SE10, check website for pricing, +44 (0)20 8858 4422, www.nmm.ac.uk 100 years after the sinking of the Titanic, the National Maritime Museum highlights the stories of its survivors. The exhibition features letters, photographs and personal objects gathered by Walter Lord while researching his book A Night to Remember. March 10-September 22
SWEENEY TODD Adelphi Theatre, The Strand, London WC2, £20-£67.50, +44 (0)20 7907 7071, www.adelphitheatrelondon.com Stephen Sondheim’s gruesome musical (recently a Hollywood film) transfers to the West End after a successful run at the Chichester Festival. Michael Ball plays the Demon Barber of Fleet Street, set on revenge for his false imprisonment, and Imelda Staunton the pie-shop owner Mrs Lovett. March 15-April 7
THE MASTER AND MARGHERITA Barbican Theatre, Silk St, London EC2, £16–42, +44 (0)20 7638 8891, www.barbican.org.uk Simon McBurney’s award-winning physical theatre company Complicite proved a dab hand at adapting the surreally-minded Bulgakov with 2010’s A Dog’s Heart. Now they return with his most famous work, mixing the Devil’s visit to Moscow and the Jerusalem of Pontius Pilate. March 17
ST PATRICK’S DAY V&A, Cromwell Road, London SW7, £6, +44 (0)20 7907 7073, www.vam.ac.uk. Guinness sales in the capital spike during the annual
Irish festival. See our feature on the best ways to celebrate, right. March 21-27
BADA FINE ART AND ANTIQUES FAIR The Duke of York Square, London SW3, £10, +44 (0)20 7589 6108, www.bada-antiques-fair.co.uk From Chippendale to Cartier, all your antiques and art needs are accounted for at this prestigious affair featuring 100 sellers from the British Antique Dealers’ Association. Events include The House & Garden Style Report, covering major decorating trends, and a talk on the English Country House. 14
Restaurants During the cold months following the New Year, there are few better places to take refuge than one of London’s buzzing restaurants. Fortunately, the last months of 2011 saw a slew of new openings (see right), proving no recession is going to get in the way of Londoners’ appetites, so the choice is greater than ever. And, since it can be hard to navigate the endless sea of possibilities, in this section you’ll also find shortlists pinpointing the best places to eat select types of cuisine, from fusion to afternoon tea, along with our latest picks for a full day’s dining out in the capital in ‘Morning, noon and night’. Image: Nobu
Restaurants First Orders The key new openings that are rocking London’s restaurant and bar scene
The Delaunay – Opened December The Wolseley’s plush new sister restaurant is already attracting the capital’s movers and shakers. It must be the Chris Corbin and Jeremy King effect: the restaurateurs have done no wrong in rolling out the winning formula (all-day dining inspired by the grand café tradition) that made the Wolseley such a smash hit. Here the mittel-European bent is more apparent, so expect Wieners and Schnitzels, and coffee with lashings of whipped cream. Lucian Freud fans can enjoy the ice-cream coupé named after him for dessert – but beware, you’ll need a sweet tooth! www.thedelaunay.com
Novikov Restaurant and Bar – Opened December Famous Muscovite restaurateur Arkady Novikov has opened his first London outpost – or, rather, three of them: two modern Asian and Italian restaurants and a Far Eastern themed lounge bar. His vast empire of 50 restaurants back home had a tendency to attract supermodels and oligarchs in equal measure, so expect to see Naomi and Bill Clinton popping up at the Berkeley Street HQ soon. In case that all sounds like hot air, the head chef of the Italian restaurant (the other offers Asian seafood) is no less than Stefano Stecca from Zafferano. www.novikovgroup.ru
Low – January 2012 Mix the boutique chic of St. James with a dancing-friendly warehouse vibe, and you have the recipe for London’s hottest new members club. The minds behind it are the founders of Aura and the Brompton Club, and they’ve spared no expense kitting out the décor with padded leather banquettes and jars of confectionary. Boasting state-of-the-art VOID speakers, you can enjoy international star DJs, or get in the mood for a dance with contemporary cocktails like the Rum Raisin Martini. Membership is £500 p.a., but it’s also open to non-members with the requisite style and attitude. www.lowmembersclub.com
Restaurants
THE BEST Rooms With a View Skylon (Modern European) Taking its name from the 1951 Festival of Britain landmark, Skylon offers a spectacular panorama of the Thames. Choose between the destination restaurant and relaxed, informal grill. Two courses £40. Southbank Centre, Belvedere Road, London SE1, +44 (0)20 7654 7800, www.skylon-restaurant.co.uk
Coq d’Argent (French) Make like a hedge fund manager and head to No.1 Poultry, where two glass lifts whisk guests to the 6th floor restaurant. The remarkable roof garden enjoys views over the famous Square Mile and St Paul’s. Two course lunch £28. No. 1 Poultry, London EC2, +44 (0)20 7395 5000, www.coqdargent.co.uk
Roast (British) Set above Borough Market, Roast doesn’t have a view of the stars, but there’s something even more fascinating about watching the busy traders below. It’s renowned for fantastic breakfasts but with exquisite seasonal British ingredients, whatever the hour, you can’t go wrong. Mains £15-£22. The Floral Hall, Stoney Street, Borough, London SE1, +44 (0) 0845 034 7300, www.roastrestaurant.com
The Portrait Restaurant (British) Whitechapel Gallery, the Royal Academy… art gallery restaurants have seriously got their act together of late, but none boast the rooftop views of Trafalgar Square enjoyed by the National Portrait Gallery’s restaurant. Book 6 weeks in advance for Saturday evenings. Mains £8-£20.50. National Portrait Gallery, 2 St. Martins Place, London WC2, +44 (0)20 7312 2490, www.npg.org.uk
Restaurants
THE BEST Fine Dining The Ledbury (French) Tucked away in the affluent neighbourhood of Notting Hill, Brett Graham’s impeccable French cuisine with British ingredients has made it a go-to fine dining destination. In addition to boasting two Michelin stars, the restaurant is famed for the pitch-perfect service of its Antipodean front-of-house staff. 3 course set lunch £33.50. 127 Ledbury Road, London W11, +44 (0)20 7792 9090, www.theledbury.com
St. John (British) Fergus Henderson’s famous nose-to-tail philosophy divides opinion, but makes him the gourmet’s favourite. Although he’s been busy setting up the new St. John Hotel, the original HQ offers the true canteen-style experience, with classics like Welsh rarebit and whole suckling pig. Mains £13.80-£22. 26 St John Street, London, EC1, +44(0)20 7251 0848, www.stjohnrestaurant.com
Hakkasan (Chinese) Stunning interior design, impeccable service and the only Michelin star ever awarded to a Chinese restaurant keep Hakkasan at the top of the food chain. The interior, resembling a moonlit oriental night, is popular with celebrities seeking a flattering backdrop. Don’t miss the dim sum. Mains £9.50-£58. 8 Hanway Place, London W1, +44 (0)20 7927 7000, www.hakkasan.com
Pollen Street Social (Modern European) NEW
If you want fine dining sans the stuffiness, look no further than this delightful solo venture from Gordon Ramsay protégé Jason Atherton. Fun and informal, try tapas and cocktails in the bar, a slap-up meal in the open-plan dining room, or head to the pudding room for dessert. 3 course set lunch £23.50. 8 Pollen Street, London W1, Oxford Circus, +44 (0)20 7290 7600, www.pollenstreetsocial.com
St John Smithfield Exterior © Patricia Niven
Pancake Day! Tuesday 21 February
Perhaps because they’re particularly keen to indulge before Lent, Londoners love Shrove Tuesday. If it’s hard to move for TV chefs tossing pancakes, or townsfolk running amok with frying pans, just blame a housewife from Olney; apparently the tradition began when said lady forgot to set down her pancakes in her haste to get to church. So, how to see in the day?
SPECTATE POULTER’S INTER-LIVERY PANCAKE RACE Watch dozens of teams representing the livery companies of Guildhall tossing pancakes in full regalia. Held since 2004, the traditional runningorder sees the Gunmakers starting each heat, the Clockmakers taking care of timing, and the Poulters providing the eggs essential in the making of pancakes. Crowds are welcome to come and cheer on their favourites. Guildhall Yard, Gresham St, London EC2, www.poulters.org.uk
TAKE PART THE GREAT SPITALFIELDS PANCAKE RACE Hip East End thoroughfare Dray Walk welcomes one of the wackiest events in town. If you want to participate, gather together a team of four and get creative with costumes – there are prizes for the best dressed. The organiser Alternative Arts prefers if you register in advance, but it’s also fine to turn up on the day and bring a donation for the charity London Air Ambulance. Old Truman Brewery, 91 Brick Lane, London E1, +44 (0)20 7375 0441, www.alternativearts.co.uk
PARTAKE MY OLD DUTCH Forget the acrobatics – Shrove Tuesday means getting down to some serious consumption before Lent begins. We suggest you head to London’s most renowned pancake restaurant, established in 1958. As suggested by the name, My Old Dutch has a particular national spin – and you can sample traditional pannekoek (served on delftware plates) if the sickly sweet maple syrup and cream option doesn’t tempt. 131-132 High Holborn, London WC1, +44 (0)20 7242 5200, www.myolddutch.com
Restaurants THE BEST British
Dinner by Heston Blumenthal NEW One of this year’s most anticipated openings, Heston Blumenthal’s first big venture away from the Fat Duck is inspired by historic British gastronomy. Each dish is dated, from meat fruit (c.1500) to savoury porridge (c.1660), albeit re-engineered for the 21st century. The dining room features floor-to-ceiling windows, and a glass-walled kitchen so you can watch the chefs create their magic. Mains £23-£36. Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, 66 Knightsbridge, London SW1, +44 (0)20 7201 3833, www.dinnerbyheston.com
Hereford Road West London restaurants can cause a huge dent in your wallet, but this classic British affair from chef-owner Tom Pemberton, very much in the St. John vein, represents seriously good value. We recommend snaffling a two-person booth overlooking the open kitchen. 2 course set lunch £13. 3 Hereford Road, London W2, +44 (0)20 7727 1144, www.herefordroad.org
Corrigan’s of Mayfair Top Irish chef Richard Corrigan is equally loved by chefs and critics. His ‘clubby’ Mayfair flagship presents gamey Irish flavours in an upscale brasserie setting, with a bullish and creative menu including the wildly popular Valrhona chocolate & tonka bean dessert. 3 course set lunch £27. 28 Upper Grosvenor Street, London W1, +44 (0)20 7499 9943, www.corrigansmayfair.com
Dean St TownHouse Old-school club room meets media rendezvous at this hip creation from the Soho House Group. The all-day menu spans everything from afternoon tea to fish and chips. Mains £13.50£34. 69-71 Dean Street, London W1, +44 (0)20 7434 1775, www.deanstreettownhouse.com
KITCHEN MASTER The New Year means making at least a few resolutions – even though for many they will remain hypothetical. But why kick off 2012 with ideas about self-abnegation, when you can instead direct your energies in a rather more fun direction? Whatever your taste, if you’re after a masterclass, London comes into its own. However, there can be few better ways to ward of the winter chill than jumping on the growing bandwagon for home cooking. So, if you’re looking to sharpen your skills in the kitchen, here’s our guide to the best masterclasses in town.
Atul Kochhar of Benares; Saf; 69 Colebrooke Road
RAW FOOD AT SAF Two-Day Raw Intensive Masterclass – 28-29 January (11-5pm) For the past decade, the worthy and hip Saf have been pioneering plant-based food. Saf stands for ‘Simply Authentic Food’ and also means ‘Pure’ in Turkish, so if the vegetarian brigade strike you with horror, this is probably not for you. If, however, you’re thinking of going on a detox, one of their masterclasses will make the process a whole lot more enjoyable – not to mention palatable. Both the Kensington and Shoreditch branches offer expert guidance across vegan food, wine tasting and cocktails, but we like the look of their two-day raw intensive masterclass, which will give you all the pointers you need to get the New Year off to a delectable start. £200 p.p.. To book, email events@safrestaurant.co.uk or call +44 (0)779 177 1489. Saf, 152-154 Curtain Road, London EC2, +44 (0)20 7613 0007, www.safrestaurant.co.uk
COCKTAILS AT COLEBROOKE ROW Definitive London Gin Masterclass – 11 February; Detox Cocktails – 14 January (2-4pm) Admit it: maybe it’s the lingering effect of Tom Cruise in Cocktail, or the new renaissance of mixology, but there’s nothing cooler than knowing your way around a cocktail shaker these days. If you’re gong to learn, seek out the best – namely pioneering cocktail creator Tony Conigliaro. At his 69 Colebrooke Row HQ, you can get hands-on with the finest tipples, and you receive a list of cocktails and recipes for everything you create. In the coming months, you can get to grips with the dangerous pleasures of gin, or get back in the pink with their first ever detox cocktail class. £40 p.p,. To book, email drinks@69colebrookerow.com. 69 Colebrooke Row, London N1, +44 (0)754 052 8593, www.colebrookerow.com
INDIAN CUISINE AT BENARES Advanced Masterclass – 22 January & 18 March Why order a takeaway when you can discover gourmet Indian cooking with Atul Kochhar, chef-patron of Michelin star Benares Restaurant in Mayfair? Participants are treated to a welcome drink before Kochhar and his team demonstrate key techniques and the secret of mixing Indian spices. After observing, it’s your turn to recreate three to four authentic Indian dishes, and you’ll receive individual attention as you go about your work. The class culminates with a meal in the restaurant, and includes a signed copy of Atul’s book, ‘Fish Indian Style’ and a selection of chutneys. £350 p.p,, To book, email events@benaresrestaurant.co.uk, or call +44 (0)207 629 8886. Benares, 12a Berkeley Square House, Berkeley Square, London W1, +44 (0)20 7629 8886, www.benaresrestaurant.com 23
Restaurants THE BEST Budget
Franco Manca (Italian) Slow-rising sourdough pizza baked in a brick oven made by specialised artisans from Naples make Franco Manca more than worth the trip to Brixton. There are only six pizzas on the menu, but with flavours like Old Spot Ham and Wild Mushrooms, no one’s complaining. There’s a new branch in Westfield Stratford. Pizzas £4.50-£6.95. Unit 4, Market Row, London SW9, +44 (0)20 7738 3021, www.francomanca.co.uk
Busaba Eathai (Thai) A handsome Thai fast food canteen with reassuringly solid communal wooden seating. The ambiance is dark oriental mystique, so you won’t feel penned up against your neighbours as can be the case with shared tables. There are seven branches in the capital but we like the Wardour St one for its Soho location. Mains £6.70-£12.40. 106-110 Wardour St, London W1, +44 (0)20 7255 8686, www.busaba.com
Polpo (Italian) This sweet Venetian-style bacaro (wine and tapas bar) occupies the ground floor and basement of an early 18th century building in Soho, once home to the painter Canaletto. Bookings are taken for lunch only and it’s popular so get there early if you want to dine. Dishes £1-£12.60. 41 Beak St, London W1, +44 (0)20 7734 4479, www.polpo.co.uk
Caravan (International) A happy addition to the great Exmouth Market dining scene, Caravan does industrial chic and fantastic International snacks with small and large plates designed for sharing. There’s a coffee roastery located in the basement providing that all-important post-meal kick. Mains £4.50-£15. 11-13 Exmouth Market, London EC1, +44 (0)20 7833 8115, www.caravanonexmouth.co.uk
Restaurants THE BEST Family
The Diner (North American) With booths and ‘shakes aplenty, this award winning chain offers a nostalgic trip back into ‘50s America. The kids’ menu includes macaroni cheese and, naturally, burgers, while adults will love the all-day breakfasts including Mexican spreads and great pancakes. Mains £4.10-£7.70. 18 Ganton St, London W1, +44 (0)20 7287 8962, www.goodlifediner.com
Gourmet Burger Kitchen (International)
Founded by three Kiwis, GBK does exactly what it says on the tin: fantastic burgers with impeccably-sourced meat treated to classy combinations of ingredients. The kids’ offering includes pint-sized portions of Cajun chicken and a healthy puy lentil and potato curry. Junior set menu £6.25. 15 Frith Street, London W1, +44 (0)20 7494 9533, www.gbk.co.uk
Leon (Global) A brilliant chain serving organic, healthy options with a kids’ menu that mixes things they’ll want to eat (fish fingers, sweet potato falafel) with healthy vegetable sides, and comes with a LEON badge, sticker and activity sheet. The Bankside branch is handily located right by Tate Modern. Mains £3.95-£6.75. 7 Canvey Street, London SE1, +44 (0)20 7620 0035, www.leonrestaurants.co.uk
Sticky Fingers (American) Founded by Bill Wyman of the Rolling Stones, this Kensington gem is a draw for yummy mummies and their kids. There is memorabilia on the walls, but it’s not just for fans as the burgers and ribs are great. Kids’ menu (including spaghetti and organic meatballs), £7.95. 1a Phillimore Gardens, London W8, +44 (0)20 7938 5338, www.stickyfingers.co.uk
Restaurants THE BEST Global Yauatcha (Chinese) Alan Yau’s Michelin starred dim-sum and tea house is an oasis in the city, hidden behind blue glass walls. Fashionable and fabulous, the service divides opinion, but their inventive dim sum (roast duck and pumpkin, say) takes some beating. People come especially for the exotic macaroons that star in afternoon tea. Dim sum £3-£12. 15-17 Broadwick Street, London W1, Tottenham Court Road, +44 (0)20 7494 8888, www.yauatcha.com
Moro (North African) Sam Clark’s Moro is just as desirable now as it was when it opened 14 years ago. Diners enjoy a view of the kitchen’s big wood-fired oven, responsible for tasty grills, breads and Moorish cuisine. The sherry and tapas bar doesn’t require booking and for more tapas simply head to the adjoining Morito. Mains £14.50-£20. 34-36 Exmouth Market, London EC1, +44 (0)20 7833 8336, www.moro.co.uk
Nobu (Japanese) Nobu, London’s very glamorous younger sibling is all high-gloss – partly thanks to star designer David Collins, and partly the influx of beautiful men and women. This is one for spoiling someone: not hard when Nobu boasts impeccable king-crab tempura and the best black miso cod in the world. Set dinner £23£33.50. Nobu Berkeley, 15 Berkeley Street, London W1, +44 (0)20 7290 922, www.noburestaurants.com
Providores & Tapa Room (Fusion) Fine dining in the upstairs Providores restaurant and an all-day wine bar/café with one of the best brunches in town on the ground floor: no wonder the public love fusion chef Peter Gordon. During Chocolate Week (10-14 October) they’ll host two dinners with acclaimed chocolatier Paul A.Young. See website for details. Main courses £17-£25. 109 Marylebone High Street, London W1, +44 (0)20 7935 6175, www.theprovidores. co.uk
Restaurants
THE BEST Vegetarian - Friendly Ottlolenghi (Mediterranean) Yotam Ottolenghi’s flagship café is not strictly vegetarian, but then again, he did famously write the Guardian’s ‘New Vegetarian’ column, so non meat-eaters will be in heaven. Expect spectacular salads with an Israeli bent and sprinklings of za’atar and sumac. Branches (and new restaurant Nopi from the same team). Main course with salad £13.70-£16.20. 287 Upper Street, London N1, +44 (0)20 7288 1454, www.ottolenghi.co.uk
Momo (Morrocan) Momo made Algerian-born restaurateur Mourad Mazouz’s name and continues to tick along splendidly. With carved screens, low tables and tasselled cushions, it’s like stumbling into a fantastical Moroccan club. Which you can do: finish up your tagine on the alfresco terrace and head to the downstairs Kemia bar, renowned for its excellent music. Mains £17-£36. 25 Heddon Street, London W1, +44 (0)20 7434 4040, www.momoresto.com
Saf (Raw Food) Located in buzzing Shoreditch, Saf offers gourmet plant-based and raw food with no animal products, no dairy, and no refined or processed ingredients. So far, so hip – and indeed there’s a special cocktail menu by celebrated mixologist Joe McCanta. No wonder it’s always packed. Mains £7-£14.50. 152-154 Curtain Road, London EC2, +44(0)20 7613 0007, www.safrestaurant. co.uk
Manna (International) Still going strong after 40 years, Manna’s tiny conservatory and cosy snug make it the perfect choice for a romantic dinner à deux. The menu offers international gourmet food including thalis, fennel and pumpkin sausages and, naturally tofu. Even the wine menu includes vegan and kosher. Mains £14-£20. 4 Erskine Road, Primrose Hill NW3, +44 (0)20 7722 8028, www.mannav.com
Morning Breakfast at....
The Modern Pantry (Fusion) Head chef Anna Hansen was one of those responsible for the excellent brunches at Marylebone’s The Providores, and it’s the same story here with her latest Clerkenwell venture. Offering classic cuisine with added razzmatazz, expect French toast with Sir Lankan coconut rather than your usual cinnamon. If you’re on a health kick, there’s an impressive array of grains and fruit, including muesli with compote. Breakfast for two with service £30. 47-48 St John’s Square, London EC1, +44 (0)20 7553 9210, www.themodernpantry.co.uk
Night Dinner at....
Hawksmoor Guildhall (British) The third outlet of steak heaven Hawksmoor has been buzzing with happy City types since opening in October. The vast room (170 covers) continues the art deco feel of its sister restaurants, with lights modelled on the Titanic and huge chocolate leather banquettes. The star of the show is the eight-course beef tasting menu (think tea and macaroni). Tasting menu from £70; steaks £20-£32. 10-12 Basinghall Street, London EC2, +44 (0)20 397 8120, www.thehawksmoor.co.uk
Morning, Noon Night
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A heavenly day’s dining in London’s choicest eateries.
Noon
Lunch at....
The Riding House Café (International) This new all-day brasserie from the team behind The Garrison and Village East boasts reclaimed fixtures and quirky design touches aplenty – but don’t let that modishness put you off. Standouts on the menu (spanning Britain, the Mediterranean and the Middle East) include enticing small plates so you can mix and match. Small plates £3-£5; mains £10-£25. 43-51 Great Titchfield St, London W1, +44 (0)20 7927 0840, www.ridinghousecafe.co.uk
Afternoon Tea ‘There are few hours in life more agreeable than the hour dedicated to the ceremony known as afternoon tea.’
Henry James While traditionalists still can’t move for jam and clotted cream teas, these days the capital can indulge the most capricious whims, from fusion scones to high-fashion fancies.
The Foyer at Claridge’s Not only is it the place to see and be seen, but according to the Tea Guild, Claridge’s also offers the finest afternoon tea in town. Raisin and apple scones are a highlight, and for Valentine’s Day and Mother’s Day you can opt for champagne and heart shaped macaroons. £38-£55. 49 Brook St, London W1, +44 (0)20 7629 8860, www.claridges.co.uk
The Wolseley A trip to Corbin and King’s Piccadilly media mecca is a must, and afternoon tea is one of the cheapest ways to do it – particularly if you opt for the light cream tea. The full version includes finger sandwiches, scones and selected pastries from Battenberg to Sachertorte. £9.75-£29.75. 160 Piccadilly, London W1, +44 (0)20 7499 6996, www.thewolseley.com
The Parlour at Sketch Beloved by the It crowd, Sketch’s décor is suitably fashioned with clubbish Louis XV chairs, and finger sandwiches, scones and pastries ranging from the weird to the wonderful. If you’re after some peace and quiet, leave before it morphs into a cocktail bar at 6pm. £27. 9 Conduit St, London W1, +44 (0)20 7659 4500, www.sketch.uk.com 30
After Dark Our selection of sleek and seductive nightspots for continuing the fun after midnight.
For…sociable Sloanes Bunga Bunga NEW A self-proclaimed ‘Englishman’s Italian bar, pizzeria and karaoke den’ from the duo behind Chelsea speakeasy Barts bar and ‘80s-themed Maggie’s nightclub. Named after Silvio Berlusconi’s debauched parties, it’s fun, cartoonish (Italian kitsch lines the walls) and puts a smile on your face. 37 Battersea Bridge Road, London SW11, +44 (0)20 7095 0360, www.bungabunga-london.com
For…the old-fashioned The American Bar at The Savoy After a jaw-droppingly expensive restoration, The Savoy has regained its sparkle – including, naturally, its showpiece American Bar. Recently voted World’s Best, the jazz age joint boats a live pianist, while Head Bartender Erik Lorincz continues the stellar reputation of his predecessors, serving classic and American cocktails with an imaginative twist. The Savoy, Strand, London WC2, +44 (0)20 7836 4343, www.fairmount.com/savoy
For…lounge lizards Ronnie Scott’s Opened by British saxophonist Ronnie Scott in 1959, this was the first club to host American jazz musicians in the UK. It has welcomed the biggest names on the jazz scene over the years, and January promises Martha Reeves and the Vandellas, with Courtney Pine the month after. The slick Ronnie’s bar on the first floor is open most nights until 3am. 47 Frith St, London W1, +44 (0)20 7439 0747, www.ronniescotts.co.uk 31
Shopping Paris may boast its fair share of luxury boutiques, and Milan excel in heady glamour, but for its sheer range, London is hard to beat when it comes to shopping. So many options mean it’s hard to know where to start – but fortunately, we’ve provided handy shopping maps of key areas including the mighty Oxford Street/Bond Street/ Regent Street hub. There are moments to pause and savour lesser-known gems like Marylebone High St, essential shopping shortlists, and a guide to the season’s best shopping events to help you snap up the perfect winter wardrobe. Credit: London Fashon Week
Shopping Shortlist: Department Stores Selfridges The Edwardian great is still pioneering the art of consumption after 100 years. And with the new shoe galleries, bigger than the Tate’s Turbine Hall, and a plush range of accessories, it remains the go-to store for the best in current fashion. 400 Oxford St, London W1, +44 (0)800 123 400, www.selfridges.co.uk
Harrod’s Mohammed Al-Fayed sold it for an obscene amount of money in 2010, and it’s not hard to see why: 10,000 sq ft of heavyweight designer collections, a luxury pet department and endless food halls, including the tempting Ladurée. Until the end of January it hosts a Harry Potter pop-up shop. 87-135 Brompton Road, London SW1, +44 (0)20 7730 1234, www.harrods.com
Liberty Behind its unmistakeable Mock Tudor frontage, the eccentric Liberty offers Bazaarstyle browsing, with a great perfumery, artful window displays and edgy luxe labels. Their haberdashery is exquisite, and it’s worth checking out the Liberty sewing school for Saturday workshops. Regent St, London W1, +44 (0)20 7734 1234, www.liberty.co.uk
Harvey Nichol’s Perched on the corner of Knightsbridge and Sloane Street, it’s no surprise that West London’s finest flock to the Fifth Floor restaurant, or revive their locks in the popular Daniel Hersheshon salon. Fashion on Four does the British young designer thing, and there’s a huge array of key names like Chanel and Balenciaga. 190-125 Knightsbridge, London SW1, +44 (0)20 7235 5000, www.harveynichols.com 33
Shopping Shopping Shortlist: Multi-label Boutique and Concept Stores
Browns 40 years on, Joan Burstein’s fabulous boutique continues to keep one step ahead of fashion. It’s actually five interconnecting shops, with the main collection hosting key international designers, Browns Focus offering young, casual brands, and Labels for Less giving killer discounts on last season’s gems. 23-27 South Molton St, London W1, +44 (0)20 7514 0000, www.brownsfashion.com
Shop at Bluebird Lifestyle boutique meets design gallery in this King’s Road mecca, launched in 2005. The ever-evolving collections have expanded to include Alice Temperley and Chloe, new for A/W ’11, and the menswear range is particularly strong. It’s also a great place to pick up accessories, furniture, music and books. 350 King’s Road, London SW3, +44 (0)20 7351 3873, www.shopatbluebird.com
Dover St Market Comme des Garçons designer Rei Kawakubo’s beautiful, edgy sixstorey space is part indoor-market, part installation, with the world’s most cutting-edge designers from Azzedine Alaïa to Lanvin. Rose Bakery on the top floor does fantastic breakfasts and, like DSM, it’s now also open on Sundays. 17-18 Dover St, London W1, +44 (0)20 7518 0680, www.doverstreetmarket.com
MOOI NEW Just yards from Kensington High St, this new “boho luxe” concept store helps reprise the former glories of an area once home to the likes of Biba. The gallery-style space hosts essentials from Cacharel, and new collections for 2012 include former Vogue stylist Thierry Colson’s Elizabethan-inspired shirts and cover-ups. 2 Abingdon Road, London W8, +44 (0)20 7938 1534, www.mooilondon.com
Dover St Market; Mooi
Shopping Shopping Shortlist: Special events and seasonal fairs Harry Potter Pop-Up Shop Throughout January Over 4,000 square feet of Harrods has been transformed into a world of wizardry, with related goodies and a recreation of Diagon Alley sure to delight Hogwarts’ fans. For those who can’t wait for Warner Bros. London studio tours (www.wbstudiotour.co.uk) from spring, they’re also running a special preview. Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Road, London SW1, +44 (0)20 7730 1234, www.harrods.com
January Sales Throughout January Refresh your winter wardrobe as London’s best department stores and boutiques entice shoppers with some pretty major discounts. If you seek luxury labels for less, a trip to Selfridges, Harrods or Harvey Nichols is a must – with the greatest discounts at the end of the period (although stock is also more limited).
London Fashion Weekend 23-26 February If you can’t bag a ticket to February’s London Fashion Week, this 4-day shopping event provides the perfect consolation. Expect British brands and emerging designers selling at cut-down prices, alongside tips on hair and makeup and a catwalk show purveying the hottest S/S 2012 trends. Somerset House, Strand, London WC2, £16-£39.50, +44 (0)871 230 1558, www.londonfashionweekend.co.uk
Country Living Spring Fair 21-25 March This inspirational boutique interiors’ fair celebrates its twentieth anniversary by adding over 100 new independent designers to the line-up. Find inspirational ideas for your home, sample top British food or take in the fragrant spring show garden created by Van Hage. Business Design Centre, London N1, £12.50-£16, +44 (0)844 848 0150, www.countrylivingfair.com
Country Living Spring Fair
London Fashion Weekend
Shopping Shopping Shortlist: The Perfect Winter Wardrobe The object of desire Jonathan Saunders Soho Diary in Red Upper crust stationers Smythson have struck gold by teaming up with colour-blocking designer Jonathan Saunders for this limited edition 2012 diary. This red and taupe goatskin leather version features a flora and fauna-inspired lining. £295, www.smythson.com
The sheepskin coat Belstaff Mascalls Sheepskin Jacket For timeless jackets with urban cool, there’s nothing like iconic British brand Belstaff. This vintage-style sheepskin jacket hits the nail on the head, and boasts a stand-up collar with double buckle fastening and snug shearling lining. £1895, www.harveynichols.com
The statement knit Paul Smith Henley Jumper The Brit icon comes up trumps with this classic knit in an ohso-fashionable damson shade. Perfect for layering, it boasts a natty touch in the form of the contrast cotton elbow patches - perfect for your capsule wardrobe! £160, www.paulsmith.co.uk
The statement gloves The colour-block gloves Keep the winter chill at bay with these seriously stylish navy gloves from the fashion pack’s favourite label. Made from premium leather, we particularly love the on-trend detail, from an edgy zipped fastening to the contrast yellow trim. £315, www.matchesfashion.com
The gentleman’s hat Superfelt Trilby Limited Edition Established in 1676, the ‘best hatters in the world’ should be your default starting point for a winter-proof hat. This superfine black felt trilby with narrow brim and red lining is strictly limited edition, and you get a handsome box to boot. £525, www.lockhatters.co.uk
Shopping Area Guide: The Key Shopping Streets Oxford Street (see right) Since the introduction of a Shibuya-style diagonal pedestrian roundabout in 2009, crossing Europe’s busiest shopping street has become less fraught – but it’s still wise to avoid peak times, and head for late openings on Thursday nights. Oxford Street is famous for department stores like Selfridges, and you’ll also find House of Fraser, John Lewis and Marks and Spencer flagships on the stretch from Marble Arch to Oxford Circus. Towards Tottenham Court Road, big multinationals like Urban Outfitters, Uniqlo and American Apparel are the order of the day – although it’s hard to get past the giant Topshop on the corner of Regent Street. www.oxfordstreet.co.uk
Regent Street (see overleaf) A border between moneyed Mayfair to the west and edgy Soho to the east, Regent Street offers ¾ of a mile of delights as you head south from Oxford Circus. Mercifully, despite the presence of numerous chains, planning regulations mean that John Nash’s famous sweeping architectural design remains intact – and it’s worth looking around before diving into the many enticing shops. Of these, the idiosyncratic Liberty is justly famous, while every new launch sees a vast crowd of loyal fans gather outside the Apple Store. Other offerings include sophisticated high street womenswear including Zara, Mango and COS. www.regentstreetonline.com
Bond Street (see overleaf and our Mayfair guide) From New Bond Street in the north to Old Bond Street in the south, this heady stretch offers an unrivalled concentration of luxury fashion and fine jewels.. Since it was founded in 1700, the Mayfair mecca has been a stomping ground for society’s movers and shapers, and even housed Admiral Horatio Nelson. Today, if they’re not holed up in one of the many top hotels here, stars can take their pick from the most prestigious designers in the business: Armani, Asprey, Bulgari, Burberry, Chanel, Hermès, Louis Vuitton, Mulberry…nothing but the best on one of the most expensive strips of real estate in the world. www.bondstreet.co.uk 38
OXFORD STREET Shopping Map NORTH SIDE H &M
SOUTH SIDE
REGENT STREET
JOHN PRINCE’S STREET
BHS
HOLLES STREET
Ernest Jones Esprit Carpisa T-Mobile Garfunkel's Foreign Exchange Sketchers McDonalds HAREWOOD PLACE
John Lewis
OLD CAVENDISH STREET
House of Fraser
Swarovski Next
NEW BOND STREET
Zara Foreign Exchange Café Zeynah Vodafone WOODSTOCK STREET
O2 Thorntons
Jewellery
Debenhams
OXFORD STREET
VERE STREET
Lifestyle
DERING STREET
Starbucks Herbal Inn Carphone Warehouse Fossil Sunglasshut
Art & Antiques
Accessorize Tie-Rack Barratts Moss River Island Aldo Uniqlo Swatch Pull and Bear Massimo Dutti
Eating & Drinking
OXFORD STREET
Clarks Jane Norman Monsoon Geox The Body Shop Clinton cards Carphone Warehouse
United colours of Benetton 3 Store Pandora The Orange Shop Vision Express J-D Sports Surprise Surprise City Luggage
Fashion
Zara H Samuel
MARYLEBONE LANE
Boots Foot Locker The Belgian Food Co Foreign Exchange
MARYLEBONE LANE
Ernest Jones STRATFORD PLACE
DAVIES STREET
West one Centre The Orange Shop Boots T-Mobile
Forever21 Desigual H&M ST CHRISTOPHERS PLACE
Gap
BIRD STREET
Russell & Bromley GILBERT STREET
BINNEY STREET
DUKE STREET
Phones 4U Lloyds Bank Carphone Warehouse Camper Swarovski Watches of Switzerland Adidas
LUMLEY STREET
Waterstones 3 Store The Perfume Shop Starbucks BALDERTON STREET
HSBC Arabian Oud Scottish Collection Wasabi Crest of London Ecco
Selfridges
Marks & Spencer River Island Vodafone Clarks La Senza Claire's Boots Russell & Bromley Monsoon New Look Next Superdrug Dorothy Perkins Ann Summers Holland & Barratt Mothercare Barretts Wallis Evans
PORTMAN STREET
OXFORD STREET
ORCHARD STREET
Peach Gifts London Travel NORTH AUDLEY STREET
PARK STREET
Primark
Foreign Exchange Pizza hut
OLD QUEBEC STREET
KFC Foreign Exchange
Crest of London City Souvenirs MARBLE ARCH
Cashpoints
Accessorize Jane Norman French Connection
JAMES STREET
OXFORD STREET
O2 Aldo The Body Shop
Health & Beauty Department Stores
Ben's Cookies SEDLEY PLACE
The Disney Store
BOND STREET Shopping Map WEST SIDE
EAST SIDE
BLENHEIM STREET
DERING STREET
Leonidas Watches Basler Jil Sander
BROOK STREET
BROOK STREET
Fenwicks Bally Anya Hindmarch Porche Folli Follie Hugo Boss
Dolce & Gabbana
Burberry Louis Vuitton
GRAFTON STREET
CLIFFORD STREET
Watches of Switzerland Patek Phillipe Georg Jensen De Grisogono Adler Chopard Moira Longmire Breguet Van Cleef & Arpels Graff Ralph Lauren
BURLINGTON GARDENS
ROYAL ARCADE
STAFFORD STREET
BOND STREET
Gucci Rene Caovilla Vertu Marina Rinaldi Cartier Etro
CONDUIT STREET
BOND STREET
Rolex Akris Leviev Yves Saint Laurent
Avi Rossini Wempe Coach Smythson Ermenegildo Zegna Other Criteria Sotherby’s Richard Green Gallery Hublot Anne Fontaine Halycon Longchamp Jimmy Choo Lucy Campbell Russell & Bromley
BRUTON STREET
Dior Solange Azagury Church's Boucheron Asprey Bulgari Piaget Marcus Harry Winston Moussaieff Chanel Chaumet Cartier Boodles Mikimoto David Morris Tiffany & Co Chanel DKNY
MADDOX STREET
De Beers PICCADILLY
Salvatore Ferragamo Joseph Chatila Max Mara Prada Bottega Veneta Etro Daniel Katz Mont Blanc Omega Damiani Daks Gina Dolce & Gabbana Alexander McQueen Tod's Jaeger - Lecoultre Mappin & Webb
Cashpoints
Hermes Michael Kors Loro Piana
F Pinet
Jewellery
Missoni SJ Phillips Zilli Mallett Polo Ralph Lauren Halcyon Gallery Richard Green Gallery Fine arts Society Tory Burch Miu Miu
BOND STREET
GROSVENOR STREET
Diesel Corneliani Church’s Opera Gallery
Emporio Armani Mulberry
Lifestyle
LANCASHIRE COURT
Car Shoe Ermenegildo Zegna Pal Zileri Canali HSBC
Art & Antiques
Lungta de Fancy Calvin Klein Pellini Uomo
Eating & Drinking
BOND STREET
Victorianox Royal Bank of Scotland Bouda Robina Mephisto Bonhams RM Williams Haunch of Venision Gallery Ivory Core Spirit Kronometry Italian Suit Company Frost Russell & Bromley
Next Reiss Baroni Bateel
Fashion
Zara TM Lewen House of Labels Pronovias
REGENT STREET Shopping Map WEST SIDE
EAST SIDE
Itsu The Gallery café University of Westminster
La Bodega del Caffe Blacks Make Mine MacDonalds Boots
MARGARET STREET
MARGARET STREET
Phones 4U Joe and The Juice Paul Leon Caffé Nero GREAT CASTLE STREET
GREAT CASTLE STREET
United Colours Of Benneton French Connection
Topshop Nike Town OXFORD STREET
OXFORD STREET
Tenzenis Coast Omega Mama's & Papa's Accessorize Natwest
PRINCES STREET
Karen Millen Ted Baker Apple Store Lacoste Quicksilver
LITTLE ARGYLL STREET
MADDOX STREET
CONDUIT STREET
Gt MARLBOROUGH STREET
Cos Desigual Gap
FOUBERT’S PLACE
Jaeger Kurt Geiger Hamleys
NEW BURLINGTON PLACE
Hugo Boss Esprit Levis Reiss
NEW BURLINGTON STREET
HEDDON STREET
REGENT STREET
Crabtree & Evelyn L'Occitane
TENISON COURT
BEAK STREET
Brooks Brothers Timberland Tommy Hilfiger Mappin & Webb REGENTS PLACE
Russell & Bromley TM Lewin Folli Follie The Body Shop Zara Mango
HEDDON STREET
Zara Home Penhaligon's VIGO STREET
GLASSHOUSE STREET
Austin Reed Viyella Charles Trywhitt Moss Bross Uniqlo
Superdry Clarks London Textile Company SWALLOW STREET
National Geographic Caffe Concerto Barbour Royal China Shop Paris Miki Toni & Guy Whittard
Lush QUADRANT ARCADE
Sebago
REGENT STREET
AIR STREET
Campo Marzio Design Excellence Hawes & Curtis
Calvin Klein Jeans Guess Anthropologie Massimo Dutti
AIR STREET
The Sting PICCADILLY
Cashpoints
Jack Wolfskin Hawes & Curtis TM Lewin Foreign Exchange 7 for All Mankind Regents
Health & Beauty
Church's The Pen Shop Ferrari Store Gant Bose
NEW BURLINGTON MEWS
Jewellery
Furla Hobbs Barker Hoss Intropia Camper Clarks
REGENT STREET
Molton Brown Caffe Nero Michael Kors
Lifestyle
Armani Exchange All Saints H &M Banana Republic
HANOVER STREET
Hackett Oxfords Godiva Swarovski HSBC
Art & Antiques
Jeans West Garfunkel's H&M
Eating & Drinking
La Tasca Pret a Manger Bastyan
REGENT STREET
Timpson
Fashion
LITTLE PORTLAND STREET
All Bar One
Shopping Area Guide: Mayfair Nestled between the relentless bustle of Oxford St, Regent St and Piccadilly, Mayfair boasts luxury designers and historic tailors alongside top hotels and galleries. On Davies St, Gray’s Antiques (no. 58, www.graysantiques.com) is a charming covered market with 200 dealers in antiques, rare books and vintage fashion. Concept stores Browns is just a stone’s throw away on South Molton St. Head to nearby New Bond St for an It-bag from Mulberry (no. 50, www.mulberry.com), or Coach’s (no. 41, www.uk.coach.com) new flagship. After Prada’s visionary sibling Miu Miu (no. 150, www.miumiu. com) you’ll hit Bruton St; sample bespoke scents at Miller Harris (no. 21, www.millerharris.com) or buy a stylish kids’ number at Stella McCartney (no. 30). Continuing back on New Bond St, you’ll find Brit icons Burberry (no.s 21-23) and the wildly opulent Louis Vuitton Maison flagship (no.s 17-20, www.louisvuitton.com). Conduit St houses pioneering Brit Vivienne Westwood (no. 44, www. viviennewestwood.co.uk), royal corsetières Rigby and Peller (no. 22A, www.rigbyandpeller.com), and a brand new Nicole Farhi flagship
Clockwise from top: Gray’s Antiques Market; Sautter Cigars; Louis Vuitton; Nicole Farhi
42
(no. 25, nicolefarhi.com). Adjoining Savile Row offers contemporary joys at cutting-edge boutique b store (no. 24A, www.bstorelondon.com), but bespoke tailoring remains key. Try Gieves & Hawkes (no. 1, www. gievesandhawkes.com), Churchill’s tailor Henry Poole (no. 15, www. henrypoole .com), or, in the adjoining Old Burlington St, the stylish Anderson & Sheppard (no. 32, www.anderson-sheppard.co.uk). Pretty Victorian Mount St accommodates super chic Balenciaga (no. 12, www.balenciaga.com), Marc Jacobs’ first British boutiques (no.s 24-25, www.marcjacobs. com) and cheaper Marc (no. 44), Christian Louboutin (no. 17, www.christianlouboutin. com) and a five-floor Lanvin (no. 128 www.lanvin.com). The beautiful visit hairdresser Jo Hansford (no. 19, www. johansford.com), while the damned make to Sautter (no. 106, www.sauttercigars.com) for the finest Havanas in town.
Shopping Area Guide: Marylebone Village Bounded by Oxford Street and Regent’s Park, and boasting an appealing crop of independent stores, genteel Marylebone Village has it all: no wonder Madonna numbers among its famous fans. Pretty Marylebone High St has two furniture staples: the Conran Shop (no. 55, www.conranshop.com) and Scandinavian design emporium Skandium (no.s 85-86, www.skandium.com). Nearby there’s classic French icon Agnès b (no.s 40-41, www.agnesb. com) and a men’s shoes outlet of Paul Smith (no. 33, www.paulsmith. co.uk). Matches Fashion (no. 87, www.matchesfashion.com) and By Malene Birger (no.s 28-29, www.bymalenebirger.com) offer the best international designers; the former provides justly rated personal shopping services. Daunt Books (no.s 83-84, www.dauntbooks.co.uk) proffers endless tomes and a much-loved specialist travel section. On Devonshire St, there are bespoke perfumes from stylish Le Labo (no. 28A, www.lelabofragrances. com). On Moxon St, La Fromagerie (no.s 2-4, www.lafromagerie.co.uk) attracts top chefs. For the cheese board, head across the High Street to famous kitchenware shop Divertimenti (no.s 33-34, www.divertimenti. co.uk).
Clockwise from top: Daunt Books; Monocle Shop; Skandium; VV Rouleaux; Le Labo
On Marylebone St, William Banks-Blaney (no. 2, www.williamvintage. com) is a starry stylist with an incredible vintage and haute couture archive, while Thayer St gem The British Invisible Mending Service (no. 32, www.invisible-mending.co.uk) is loved for its painstaking hand reweaving. The mini George St Monocle Shop (no. 2A, www.monocle. com) has gentleman’s travel accessories. Cute Marylebone Lane has two unmissables: vast ribbon retailer V V Rouleaux (no. 102, www.vvrouleaux.com) and beautiful handmade shoes from Tracey Neuls at TN_29 (no. 29, www.tn29.com). Take Wigmore St for classic separates at Margaret Howell (no. 34, www.margarethowell.co.uk), then recuperate on Portland Place at The Langham’s new Traditional Chinese Medicine Chuan Spa (no. 1c, www.chuanspa.co.uk).
Shopping Area Guide: Pimlico Road This unique quarter, formed by various streets converging on the Pimlico Road, has long enticed International designers and bon viveurs. It’s just off Sloane Square, but alas, the first time tourists usually see it is from the window of a taxi making the return trip to Heathrow. In this circumstance, stop the cab and miss the flight: here you’ll find the building blocks of a luxury lifestyle you’d otherwise only dream about while skimming the inflight magazine. Most of the forty-something antiques and art dealers here set up and never leave; their premises become extended living rooms, albeit resembling stately homes. Mark Boyce from Ross Hamilton Antiques (no. 95, pictured) is delighted to invite you into what does indeed seem to be his home. Offering 17-19th Century furniture, he too is endearingly old fashioned - not possessing a mobile phone. As he explains, Pimlico Road is like a village, and lo, when we wander on, he greets everyone we meet by name. Those who leave are tempted to return. Howe Leather & Fabric (no. 36 Bourne St, www.howelondon.com) has reopened after a decade’s absence; arriving in sync with hand knotted rug specialist Luke Irwin (no. 22, www.lukeirwin.com), leading interior designer Michael Reeves (no. 30, www.michaelreevesassociates.co.uk) and mid-twentieth century furniture purveyors, Talisman (no.s 190-192 Ebury St, www. talismanlondon.com). The Tomasso Brothers (no. 107b, www.tomassobrothers.co.uk) are Internationally renowned dealers in European sculpture and the decorative arts; their array of major European statuary has been surveying the quarter for just a year, making it a relative novice. Meanwhile, bespoke British designer David Linley (no. 60, www.linley.com) caused a buzz when he opened his newly redesigned premises last October. And, lest we forget, art and antiques only make up one third of the road. The Sloane Square set certainly wouldn’t overlook the fine organic meat, biodynamic wines and bakery at Daylesford Organic (no. 44, www. daylesfordorganic.com). And who could overlook Pimlico Road itself? It’s a jewel without bling: chic, yet unpretentious, sophisticated and dare we say a little, gloriously, eccentric?
Pimlico Road: Shopping Map
SHOPPING Focus: Watch Club Four leather chairs, two chandeliers and a desk make up the minimal-chic interior of Mayfair’s Watch Club. “No distractions”, explains elegantly dressed and modest Justin Koullapis, one of the shop’s two founding partners. Instead, customers can concentrate on a vast array of eyewatering timepieces, including classics like the Rolex Daytona ‘Paul Newman’. And the customers are loyal – helped by a fantastic website. Indeed, since the pair started in 1996, they have become market leaders in the buying and selling of new, vintage and pre-owned models. Each is minutely examined by the two resident experts; Justin, originally a watchmaker, and currently technical editor of the Horological Journal, is the technician, whilst his partner Danny Pizzigoni is the vintage expert, having collected antique watches since the age of 12. Their enthusiasm for the trade coupled with an encyclopedic knowledge of brands commands respect, not to mention the fact that they are the official UK agent for the exclusive Pro-Hunter. So, if you want the same customized Rolex as Bill Clinton or Norman Foster, there’s only one place to go. 4 & 5 The Royal Arcade, 28 Old Bond Street, London W1, +44 (0)20 7495 4882, www.watchclub.com
4 & 5 The Royal Arcade, 28 Old Bond Street, London W1, +44 (0)20 7495 4882, www.watchclub.com
Sights and Museums Blockbuster exhibitions and blockbuster sights… with the Olympics and the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee on the way, 2012 is set to be London’s year in the sun. Our tour begins in The City, the capital’s historic and financial heart, moving on across Millennium Bridge, where artistic powerhouse Tate Modern looms large over the South Bank’s touristic two-mile stretch. The West End abounds with world-class museums and blue chip galleries; Westminster & St James’s Houses of Parliament and Westminster Abbey - bordered on the east by the National Gallery. South Kensington & Chelsea, land of plenty, means heavyweight collections like the V&A, fragranced by rarefied Kensington Gardens. Or is it the whiff of money? © Succession Picasso - DACS 2011
South Bank You can bank on showpieces south of the Thames… Cross the ‘wobbly’ Millennium Bridge by St Paul’s for the most scenic route to Tate Modern. Enjoy the modern art collections for free, and check out Tacita Dean’s monolithic silent film installation, which decorates the turbine hall until March 11. One of the UK’s largest ever Yayoi Kusama retrospectives is a must-see from February 9. (Still not had enough? take the Tate-to-Tate boat outside for a leisurely glide to Tate Britain.) Bankside, London SE1, exhibition £9.50-£11, +44 (0)20 7887 8752, www.tate.org.uk Nearby, Shakespeare’s Globe tempts tourists and thespians to its faithful reconstruction of the legendary open-air playhouse from 1599. An exhibition explores the Bard’s London life, with a guided tour giving the lowdown on the theatre’s reconstruction and how the ‘wooden O’ works today. 21 New Globe Walk, London SE1, £8-£12.50, +44 (0)20 7902 1400, www.shakespearesglobe.com The cool Design Museum marks founder Sir Terence Conran’s 80th birthday with the exhibition The Way We Live Now. Following his entrepreneurial and design work, it moves from the post-war period through pop culture to today. You can also scope the entries for ‘Design of the Year’ from February 8. Shad Thames, London SE1, £7-£11, +44 (0)20 7403 6933, www.designmuseum.org Back west and creative arts’ hub Southbank Centre, home to the
© Shakespeare’s Globe. Credit: Linda Nylind
BFI, has a very visible new addition in the form of A Room for London. Created by Living Architecture, the one-bed installation ‘Roi des Belges’, referencing Conrad’s Heart of Darkness, perches on the Queen Elizabeth Hall’s roof. Half artwork, half hotel, it hosts artists’ performances and even guests – with booking for the latter half of the year opening on January 19. South Bank, London SE1, room from £120, www.aroomforlondon. co.uk; www.southbankcentre.co.uk The neighbouring Hayward Gallery hosts a tempting double-bill. From February 1, comic illustrator and artist David Shrigley gets a full survey of his work in Brain Activity, while from February 22, Jeremy Deller: Joy in People showcases all the major works to date of the influential Turner Prize-winner. Belvedere Road, London SE1, ticket for both exhibitions £10, +44 (0)844 875 0073, www.southbankcentre.co.uk
Clockwise from top left: Tacita Dean; Design Museum © Luke Haynes; A Room for London; Turbine Hall © Tate Photography
The West End Blue chip bravado and British bombast in the city centre… The Royal Academy’s vibrant new exhibition David Hockney: A Bigger Picture (from January 21) focuses on the artist’s Yorkshire landscapes including images made via iPad and iPhone. Burlington House, Piccadilly, London W1, £3-£15.50, +44 (0)844 209 0051, www.royalacademy.org.uk The rich Wallace Collection slips under the tourist’s radar – incredible when it houses work by Titian, Rembrandt, and Frans Hals’ The Laughing Cavalier. Bequeathed to the public, the collection can never be altered, so you run no danger of finding your favourite Old Master out on loan. Hertford House, Manchester Square, London W1, free, +44 (0)207 563 9500, www.wallacecollection.org From Egyptian mummies to the Elgin Marbles, The British Museum is steeped in history. Until 19 February, though, they’re joining the very contemporary Grayson Perry on a journey to the afterlife in The Tomb of the Unknown Craftsman. Great Russell Street, London WC1, free-£10, +44 (0)20 7323 8181, www.britishmuseum.org Rituals make another appearance as the curious Wellcome Collection shows Miracles and Charms, with Mexican Miracle Paintings and amulets from Henry Wellcome’s fascinating archive. Until February 26. 183 Euston Road, London NW1, free, +44 (0)20 7611 2222, www.wellcomecollection.org
Image: Hertford House
The British Library stores every publication produced in the UK and Ireland, and in the Sir John Ritblat Gallery you’ll find a permanent display of the Library’s greatest treasures from the Magna Carta to the Gutenberg Bible. Until March 12, it hosts Royal Manuscripts: The Genius of Illumination, featuring outstanding medieval and Renaissance treasures. 96 Euston Road, London NW1, £3.50-£9, +44 (0)843 2081144, www.bl.uk Hot new arrival Shizaru, founded by the Khalili brothers, sons of the Islamic art tycoon, features an Art Rocks exhibition until January 28. The fashion-friendly show displays jewellery from exciting designermakers including Daphne Guinness-collaborator Shaun Leane. 112 Mount Street, London W1, +44 (0)20 7499 2266, www.shizaru.com London: The Mystery of Appearance (until February 18) takes over the newly renovated Haunch of Venison, offering a fresh appraisal of ten post-war artists form Frank Auerbach to Francis Bacon and Richard Hamilton. Charting their personal relationships, it includes major loans like Bacon’s Pope I. Haunch of Venison, 6 Haunch of Venison Yard, London W1, free, +44 (0)20 7495 5050, www.haunchofvenison.com
Image: The Laughing Cavalier
Westminster and St James’s
Member’s clubs, MP’s and military might…
The next Fourth Plinth commission in central Trafalgar Square arrives this year, so make sure you catch current incumbent Yinka Shonibare’s Nelson’s Ship in a Bottle – a symbolic work referencing Britain’s colonial history. Trafalgar Square, London WC2, +44 (0)20 7983 4750, www.london.gov.uk The neighbouring National Gallery honours Leonardo da Vinci in its blockbuster exhibition (until February 5), while the National Portrait Gallery charts the stylistic development of one of Britain’s best-loved artists in Lucien Freud: Portraits (from February 9). National Gallery, Trafalgar Square, London WC2, £8-£17.60, +44 (0)20 7747 2885, www.nationalgallery.org.uk; National Portrait Gallery, Saint Martin’s Place, London WC2, £12-£14, +44 (0)20 7306 0055, www.npg.org.uk Head south down the Haymarket to contemporary arts’ hub the ICA, in recovery from its near-collapse. They’re running an Artists in Cinema season (January 13-19) with works by Steve McQueen and Miranda July, and In Numbers: Serial Publications by Artists Since 1955, tracing ‘zine culture and correspondence art. The Mall, London SW1, free; films £8-£10, +44 (0)20 7930 3647, www.ica.org.uk Beautiful St James’s Park is just across The Mall, with a central lake revealing wildfowl and views of the London Eye and Buckingham Palace. The monarch’s home is mostly closed post-summer, but you can visit the Queen’s Gallery for the Royal collection and Antarctic photography. The Mall, London SW1, £4.50-£9, +44 (0)20 7766 7300, www.royalcollection.org.uk
Image: The Last Supper
Elbow fellow tourists out of the way for a glimpse of poets’ and royals’ tombs in the pageantry-filled Westminster Abbey. It’s particularly atmospheric on bell-ringing days like St. David’s Day (March 1) and St. Patrick’s Day (March 17). 20 Dean’s Yard, London SW1, £6-£16, +44 (0)20 7222 5152, www.westminster-abbey.org Time your trip with care and Big Ben will just be tolling as you pass along Millbank to Tate Britain, home to the largest collection of British art in the world - with paintings by Gainsborough, Millais and JMW Turner. As part of its Picasso and Britain exhibition (from February 15) the English national Ballet will be dropping in for a residency based on the artist’s work with the Ballets Russes (February 27-March 4). Millbank, London SW1, exhibition £15.50, +44 (0)20 7877 8888, www.tate.org.uk
Top left: © Lucian Freud; top right as you have it already; bottom © Tate Photography
The City Money, museums and milestones from Holborn to Hoxton…
Beyond the walls of Somerset House, you’ll find mighty Impressionist and Post-Impressionist works from Manet to Gauguin in the permanent collections of the Courtauld Gallery, while from February, Mondrian || Nicholson: In Parallel tells the story of the relationship of the two avant-garde greats during the 1930s. Head over to the Terrace Rooms for a retrospective of style bible Dazed and Confused until the end of January. Strand, London WC2, free-£8, +44 (0)20 7845 4600, www.somersethouse.org.uk Just north up Kingsway, Sir John Soane’s Museum offers curiosities aplenty. A leading architect in his day, his home is stuffed with art and antiquities, including an ancient sarcophagus in the basement. Don’t miss monthly candlelit tours. 13 Lincoln’s Inn Fields, London WC2, £5, +44 (0)20 7405 2107, www.soane.org Until February 19, Brutalist masterpiece the Barbican lays bare Rem Koolhaas’ adventurous architectural practice in OMA/Progress. You can catch sculptor Antony Gormley’s collaborative work Survivor (January 12-14), a residency by the New York Philharmonic including soloist Lang Lang (February 16-18), and select shows during the London International Mime Festival (January 17–28). Silk Street, London EC2, prices vary, +44 (0)20 7638 4141, www.barbican.org.uk The revamped Museum of London tells the story of the capital through an amazing array of objects, and is particularly strong on fashion. Its current exhibition Dickens and London, until May, celebrates the novelist’s bicentenary. 150 London Wall, London EC2, free-£8, +44 (0)20 7001 9844, www.museumoflondon.org.uk
Left: Sir John Soane’s Museum; right: The Courtauld Gallery, © Richard Bryant
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