13 minute read
TheStoried Van Campen Inn
THE STORIED VAN CAMPEN INN
By Marie Liu Photos Courtesy of Marie Liu
An elegant and austere home, fashioned from the stone and timber cleared from its surroundings and assembled by strong, determined hands of early Dutch settlers, the Van Campen Inn was one of the first permanent homesteads in the wild frontier that was Northern New Jersey in the early 1700’s. In its time it has played a role in two wars, saw the birth of a nation, pandemics, survived catastrophic hurricanes and floods, sheltered many who sought safety within its sturdy walls, witnessed births, deaths and all the joys and sorrows in between as they were played out under its roof. Pivotal to the growth of a community called Walpack Center, then bearing witness to the painful abandonment of that community and region. Like a sentinel it stands strong, and alone again, nearly three centuries later.
Located on Old Mine Road, one of the oldest commercial roadways in the U.S., which connected the Delaware River to the Hudson River at Kingston NY; the Shapanack Flats, made fertile by the flooding Delaware, would be settled by the Rosenkrans family in 1736. Leaving what seemed to be an established, comfortable life in the settlement of Kingston, the elderly Alexander, wife Marretjen (sister of Nicholas DePue), and their five offspring make the arduous journey with their belongings to this rough and wild territory to make a new start. Self-sufficiency was possible in the rich valley, but a hard task. Relocating to the heavily forested, sparsely populated Walpack would surely be an epic undertaking, and with three sisters and a young brother, the bulk of the work would be on the twenty year old son Harmen Rosenkrans.
Much about their beginnings in Walpack is shrouded in mystery and continues to be discovered. The following is what has been surmised by clues left in scant documents from that time and
revealed during the homes more recent renovations. In the years between arriving and building his own home, Harmen would have cleared enough land, built housing and outbuildings enough to settle the family. In about 1749 he embarked on the construction of his own large home for his growing family. The stone home would be impressive for its size, quality and attention to detail, which might have been expected in the city of Philadelphia, but even more amazing because of its remote frontier location, where log cabins would be the norm.
The basement of the two-story structure is built into the hillside giving the appearance of three stories from the front, which overlooks the Shapanack Flats, Delaware River and the Blue Mountains of Pennsylvania. Its design is a mix of Georgian and Dutch styles, with the Georgian influence evident in the symmetrical design of the front facade, center hall entry and staircase. The Dutch influenced roof design, called Dutch Kick, flares at the bottom. This element was not only decoratively elegant but served to discourage water flowing down the roof from soaking the limestone walls below. These stones walls were ‘nicely dressed’ (cut at precise angles) in front, but less so on the sides. The home also features some of the finest examples of mid 18th century woodwork and hardware in Sussex County of that period. The interior walls of the first floor rooms and one room on the second floor were completely outfitted with finely crafted wood panels, boasting inset cabinets, one of which opens to reveal a curved back wall, a very impressive feature in its day, as was the beaded (or quarter round) trim edging the massive, hand finished ceiling beams. These uncommon details were sure to capture the attention of its many visitors. A thick cast iron ‘fire back’ used to protect the back wall of fireplace and reflect heat out into the house was emblazoned with the crest of the Royal family of England.
> Hixon Spangenberg
One would assume that after all these years of hard work
establishing a proper plantation and a sturdy, roomy home for his
wife and children, he would spend the rest of his days enjoying
the fruits of his considerable labors here in Walpack alongside
his extended family. But shortly after the homes’ completion in
1754, the seemingly inexhaustible Harmen sells his property to
brother-in-law Isaac Van Campen, and moves further south to
Hunterdon County. Brother John stays on to become one of the
leading men of the Delaware Valley and pillar of his community
as a Captain during the French and Indian War and a Colonel of
the local militia in the American Revolution.
Called an Inn, it was not so in the traditional sense, but a ‘yaugh’
house, which was a residence that was obligated by law to
receive travelers as they made their way through this sparsely
1729 – Alexander Rosenkrans purchases property in Walpack 1736 – Alexander Rosenkrans, sons Harmen and John, and family relocate to Shapanack Flats (Walpack) in Northern NJ 1737 – Walking Treaty Around 1749 Harmen begins constructing his home (Van Campen Inn) 1754 – Harmen sells his home and property to Isaac Van Campen. French and Indian War begins 1775 – Revolutionary War begins 1786 – John Rosenkrans dies Editor’s Note: Some dates provided may be approximate.
> Original door hinge
> Original dutch door
> Original beam
Delaware Indian resentment had reached its peak after the final blow of the Walking Treaty of 1737, which unfairly drove them from their sacred Minisink homeland. Serious aggression toward the Minisink settlers began around the time Isaac took possession of the property. Armed by the French in the French and Indian War, the Delaware and Shawnee Indians waged warfare up and down the Delaware Valley on the vulnerable immigrant settlers, who were often unaware their lands were of questionable title. It was as extremely violent time for the colonists of the region. When threatened by attacks, this stone home became a safe fortress for locals, if they were lucky enough to get there in time. Many were not.
In November of 1763, during the height of the French and Indian War, Captain Lemuel Bowers of the British militia reported:
“I arrived here (at Isaac Van Campen’s) with my detachment of 90 men, by order of His Excellency, William Franklin, Esq. [son of Benjamin Franklin], where I found 150 persons, men women and children, who were driven to this station by the cruel savages of the wilderness. Of these, at least 50 lodge every night in one small room, in a very uncomfortable and confused manner. In the morning they throw what beds and covering they have out of doors in one heap...” Responding to this desperate situation, forts were built along the river in New Jersey, Pennsylvania and New York. Fort Johns (or Fort Shapanack) was the designated military headquarters for the region. Located just up the hill from Van Campen’s, the fortress was built around the home of John Rosenkrans. Military Road was built as a supply route from Elizabeth NJ to Fort Johns, the distribution hub for the other forts. Now this section of the road from Van Campen’s to Walpack Center is a hiking trail. An NPS brochure is available and will point out the various sites of interest along the way. The footprint of Fort Johns, a slave graveyard in the woods, and farmstead sites line the old road trail.
Near the terminus of Military Road and Old Mine Road, Van Campen’s would also see plenty of activity during the Revolutionary War. Isaac and Mary would graciously receive dignitaries, Generals and troops, but one should also ponder their risk for lending support to the rebel forces during a revolutionary war whose end would more likely favor British victory. Some of the homes significant guests during that time were the following:
In 1776, General Horatio Gates, Benedict Arnold, Brigadier General John Stark and 600 troops were halted by a blizzard as they traveled to join General George Washington at the Battle of Trenton, staying several days at the Shapanack Flats in front of Van Campen’s.
> Allyson Schwab Miller
In 1778, Brigadier General Casimir Pulaski marched his Legion of 250 cavalrymen and horses down the Old Mine Road to winter at Van Campen’s for several months. He was on route to Lancaster and ultimately South Carolina, after being stationed at Fort Cole in Port Jervis NY to defend settlers of the Minisink from Indian attack. In a letter to John Laurens, President of the Continental Congress, Pulaski, who is itching to be placed on the battle lines writes:
“I demand to be employed near the Ennemies Lines, and it is thought proper to place me in an Exile which even the Savages shun, and nothing remains but the Bears to Fight with.”
Washington writes to Pulaski from his headquarters in Poughkeepsie NY, when Pulaski was ordered to that post:
“I must beg you to use all of your means to keep your Corps from marauding or in any way distress the Inhabitants, who will cheerfully contribute everything to your support if properly demanded. There are two Gentlemen of particular influence in that Country, Mr Depui and Mr. [Abraham] Van Camp, who will assist you very much in procuring forage and other necessaries.”
Shortly after, having both been stationed at Fort Cole in Port Jervis, Colonel Van Cortlandt led the 2nd NY Regiment past this place on their way to Decker’s Ferry to cross the Delaware River
to Stroudsburg, and General Hand traveled Old Mine Road with his regiment to join General John Sullivan’s march to Wyoming Valley. Both were likely to have spent some time refreshing themselves at Van Campen’s. Also, a possible guest was John Adams, during his numerous trips from his home in Massachusetts to attend the First Continental Congress in Philadelphia.
Isaac lived out the rest of his day in his home until his death in 1801. He lived a life of notable public service as Elder of the Walpack Church, Freeholder, Justice of the Peace, Associate Judge of the county and State Legislator. Through the proceeding years, many other families called this place home, including the Dewitts and Berks, plus an array of tenant farmers until the late 1960’s, when the
infamous Tocks Island Dam Project saw the expulsion of nearly the entire population of Walpack. By the time the project was abandoned and the National Park Service charged with management of the area, the home was in great need of attention and repair.
The National Park Service authorized a substantial restoration of the Van Campen Inn in 1981. This restoration involved dismantling and reconstructing two-thirds of the front and side walls of the house, constructing new foundations, stabilizing the rear walls, and replacing interior wood structural beams. It was completed in 1984 with the help of local stonemason Clarence Sharp. The outline of an additional structure (destroyed in 1917) which was attached to the main house was kept intact and can be seen on the North facing exterior wall. That small, far less elegant portion had previously been thought to be the original home built by Harmen, with the larger, grander home being built onto it by Van Campen. But evidence turned up during reconstruction indicates the smaller structure was added after the large home was built, thereby upending the old assumption. What was long assumed to have been built by Van Campen was actually built by Harmon Rosenkrans, and vice versa.
AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2020 The Pocono Mountains' Magazine Complimentary Pocono Living MAGAZINE
Robert L. Williams was integral to the preservation and reconstruction of the Van Campen Inn as a historic landmark. He founded the Walpack Historical Society in the mid 1980’s out of concern for the cultural resources of the area and future of the Van Campen Inn. The Society actively promotes learning about the home and surrounding area through on-going research, lectures, tours, publications, special events, hikes and exhibits at countywide events. It facilitates the collection and preservation of artifacts of the Walpack area, and maintains a small museum/bookstore in Walpack Center. In my opinion they are one of the most relevant, active and exciting historical societies around. Their band of enthusiastic volunteers continue to lovingly care for and celebrate the history of the Inn, opening it to the public in partnership with the Delaware Water Gap National Recreation Area. They conduct tours of the house on certain weekends from spring through fall, with the grand finale being the annual Van Campen Day in October. This year I attended the first ever Cabin Fever event at Van Campen Inn in February 2020, and it was a great success. At both events visitors were treated to a realistic experience of how life was in the 1700’s. Docents in period dress informed about the architecture, demonstrated domestic arts such as the spinning
wheel, quilting, cooking, chair caning, as well as blacksmithing, and historic weaponry, helping us to appreciate the lifestyle of a self-sustaining agrarian existence on the frontier of early America that is likely unimaginable to most folks today. The highlight of Van Campen Day is when the Colonial Musketeers, an authentic Fife & Drum Corp, starts up its lilting flute and percussive sounds to lead the visitors down Old Mine Road where talks are given along the way to point out and explain places of historical significance. It is an experience that truly makes one feel that they
SHOP NEW. SHOP VINTAGE. SHOP LOCAL.
> Jen Wycalek
are transported back to a different time.
The Rosenkrans Chapter of the Sons of the American Revolution gives a presentation at the monument which pays honor to Colonel John Rosenkans (close to his final resting place). He served in the French and Indian War and Sussex Co. militia of the Revolutionary War, where he received a bullet in the shoulder and would never recover from it. Several of those Chapter presenters were descendants of Colonel Rosenkrans, who live in the area and are Walpack Historical Society members, adding to the richness of the whole day’s experience. What an amazing tribute to one’s ancestor. I can’t help but think how proud Colonel Rosenkrans would be.
Personally, I am fascinated by people who continue living in the area of their ancestry and are so connected to their family’s story. Their curiosity, reverence and respect for their own and their region’s past is a quality I find admirable – the region’s history courses through their veins, especially today when ‘going somewhere else’ is the fashionable thing to do. The Van Campen Inn symbolizes that rock solid foundation, carried through many generations, embodied in its sturdy walls that were fashioned from the very timber and rock around it.
www.walpackhistory.org (973) 948-4903 Facebook: Walpack Historical Society
It’s not just a day of shopping here in the Pocono Mountains—it’s an experience. Wander our historic streets. Explore our art galleries. Find unique local goods. And stop for a bite at one of our top-rated neighborhood restaurants along the way. Discover all of our shopping and sights now at PoconoMountains.com.
