4 minute read
A Rhône Pilgrimage: From Avignon to Lyon
By Mike Muirhead, ISG, CMS, Sommelier
It is a bit of a running joke between Gary Hewitt, our senior buyer, and me that we have travelled the world and seen some of the world’s most beautiful destinations with each other, rather than with our partners. Can I help it if serious wine-buying trips often mean travelling to amazing places? Of the many beautiful wine regions I have seen (with Gary), my visit to the Rhône Valley caught my attention for its confluence of food, wine, and scenery.
I knew before we arrived that the Rhône River is big, important, and has connected civilizations for centuries. I knew its wines. But it was incredible to see how these ancient civilizations still breathe life into the waterway and towns. I did not expect such fantastic cuisine with those wines, or that I would sit and stare at this river, like other wine tourists and river boat cruisers.
Gary and I drove the stretch of the Rhône between Avignon near the Mediterranean coast and the city of Lyon further north. The Rhône Valley wine region is actually two distinct parts: the southern Rhône that opens like a funnel with lazy, rolling hills as the river approaches its delta at the coast, and the northern Rhône, with steep carved riverbanks. The south is home to wine blends that include Syrah (up to 18 varieties can go into the famous southern Rhône wine Châteauneuf-du-Pape, for example), whereas in the north, Syrah is king, with Viognier and a few others playing small roles.
The Rhône has also been a major transportation route from prehistoric times to the present. The river passes through a region that has seen many leaders, lords, wars, and regime changes that have made this place of natural beauty also a place of cultural importance. With lots of advice from friends who know the area, Gary and I carved out our own wine and food path along the mighty Rhône.
Avignon
The oldest part of the medieval town of Avignon is still surrounded by ramparts. Known as home to the Papal Court when Pope Clement V moved the papacy from Rome to France in 1309, Avignon housed a total of seven popes in 67 years. Even after the court returned to Rome, a series of “antipopes” continued to rule here.
Passing through these stone gates truly feels like stepping back in time without leaving the present: modern coffee bars and Lacoste shops appear against a backdrop of cobblestone streets and medieval churches. Every resident and visitor seems to spend evenings into the early hours walking, eating, and just enjoying the beauty. Passageways and streets stretch out from the central square, leading to new sights, sounds, and smells. Getting lost in Avignon is on par with getting lost in Venice—easy to do, but something great is around every corner.
Wine Pick: Alain Voge 2015 Les Peyrouses Syrah Côte du Rhône, France ($41.99)
Le Pont d'Avignon over the Rhône
Orange
From Avignon, we drove to the small region of Châteauneuf-du-Pape (“New Castle of the Pope”). Pope Clement V’s court worked to improve the vineyards surrounding Avignon. These wines later became Vin du Pape, precursor for Châteauneuf-du-Pape, now the famous red blend dominated by Grenache, usually also including Syrah (white Châteauneuf-du-Pape is also produced, but in tiny quantities). Just north is Orange, a city that was originally modelled as a smallscale Rome by its conquerors. The impressive Roman Theatre off the main square holds music festivals every year. Walking down any street towards the Place du Republic offers options for an amazing meal.
Wine pick: Bosquet du Papes 2015 Tradition Châteauneuf-du Pape (Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre blend) ($64.99)
Chateauneuf -du-Pape
Wine Nerd Stops
There are a few iconic places to stop when travelling the Rhône.
• Trek up the Hill of Hermitage to Jaboulet’s famous La Chapelle vineyard (with its tiny church).
• Seeing the producers' signs on the Côte-Rôtie is the wine nerd equivalent of seeing the Hollywood sign. Here you will find vineyards that rank among the longest continuously run since the Romans first planted here.
Vienne
From Orange’s large, open vineyards we travelled to the steep-sided vineyards of the northern Rhône. The river road brought us to Vienne, once a “collection city” for Roman taxes. Vienne is endowed with architecture and artifacts of Roman times including the temple of Augustus and the Pyramid of Vienne, which legend states is the resting place of Pontius Pilate. Vienne had the favour of Rome and with that came riches, nurturing a well-heeled culture that loves great cuisine.
Wine pick: Bonnefond 2015 Colline de Couzou Côte-Rôtie ($82.99)
As work trips go, our travel in the Rhône Valley was successful: we came away with some great Syrah and Syrah-blend wines for the store. I also came home with a desire to return to explore the history, wines, and endless culinary offerings of this region. Hopefully this time with my wife.
Christopher Sprague's Lyon
When he heard that we were going to the Rhône, 529 Sommelier Christopher Sprague insisted we take time at the end our trip to visit Lyon, just north of the wine region. After having visited over a dozen times, Christopher considers Lyon something of a second home. “I am drawn to Lyon’s beauty, and the food really is the soul of the city. Lyon has it all: modern French, peasant food, and Lyonnaise style both classic and modern. It was the end of the Spice Route, so Lyon always had access to the newest and greatest spices and flavours arriving from the far east. The Lyonese exploited them all.”
Where to stay In the heart of the city: Mercure Lyon Centre Hotel Beaux Arts or Hotel Carlton Lyon Out of the way: Mama Shelter, a Philip Stark property (A Winnipeg connection: The General Manager, Arnaud, worked at 529 for a year to learn English!)
Where to eat La Mere Brazier: An homage to Madame Brazier who trained such chefs as Paul Bocuse, Alain Ducasse, Joel Robuchon Le Book-Lard: Chef Martin was sous chef at 529 Wellington in 2013/14 before returning to Lyon to start this highly acclaimed restaurant. Les Halles: By Paul Bocuse, this is the mecca for fine food in Lyon.
What to do Take in a concert at the Amphitheatre of the Three Gauls and the Festival of Lights in December.
