Tasting the Wines

What started as an altitude comparison of Howell Mountain’s high elevation versus the valley floor of the St. Helena AVA ended up being a tasting of Napa superstars who are each in their own league—regardless of elevation.

Moone-Tsai 2017 Howell Mountain Red ($299.99): In the glass, this blend is nearly opaque with a youthful garnet rim. The nose is intense and entwined with black current, fresh plums, dark chocolate, Earl Grey tea, pencil lead, and muted red flowers. This wine was aged 18 months (30% in New French Oak)—the vanilla and cigar box on the palate attest to this luxurious barrel program. Both gripping and supple on the palate, the wine is lovely to drink now but would benefit from 3–5 years of extra bottle time and could be enjoyed well past 2030.

Melka Estates 2018 Métisse Jumping Goat Vineyard ($349.99): From the St. Helena AVA on the valley floor, this wine shows Philippe’s depth and touch in winemaking. Dark with a deep ruby rim, aromas jump out of the glass on first smell: deep, concentrated fruit; dark blackberry; cassis; tobacco; and a hint of menthol on the end. The longer this wine spends in the glass, the more it opens up, with layers of sage, violets, and raspberries. The wine is lush on the palate with fine, silky tannins that will only become smoother with age. The palate is rich but not heavy, with a mouth-watering finish of layered perfume and fruit. With only 375 cases produced, it is a special bottle for any cellar. Enjoy it over the next 15 years.