You Think You Know Pinot Grigio?

By Tina Jones and Sylvia Jansen, DipWSET, CSW, Sommelier

Do you think you know Pinot Grigio? Everyone knows this white as an easy-drinking style, sure, but it is hardly a trend, right? You might be happy to know that Pinot Grigio is on the rise—and we are not talking about the well-known face of this variety.

Pinot Grigio has been both famous and familiar for a while, and oceans of straightforward, unpretentious Pinot Grigio are everywhere. Modest Pinot Grigio is easy: it is easy to quaff on its own, priced so it is easy to open on a Tuesday night, and easy to pair with everything from appetizers to popcorn. A big part of that charm is in its neutral character, made from earlier harvested fruit from easy-to-manage vineyards. As our Vice-President Mike Muirhead often says, Pinot Grigio is the Goldilocks wine—not too tart, not too aromatic, not too alcoholic, and not too sweet—juuuust right.

But what is trending is the classic style of this variety, which is full of incredible depth and a complexity that takes it from easy to extraordinary. Classic Pinot Grigio displays why this grape is a noble variety, with rich, ripe fruit character; softly balanced acidity; and a fuller body. These wines are worth our attention—and they are getting a lot of it.

Pinot Grigio is a mutation of Pinot Noir, the “grey” Pinot, making it Gris in French, Grigio in Italian, and Grauburgunder (“grey Burgundy”) in German.

In France, especially in Alsace, vignerons have long been planting Pinot Gris in some of their best vineyards. Here, the magical combination of steep, sunny hillsides, special soils, noble varieties, and climate contribute to wines of incredible harmony and elegance. Alsace Grand Cru Pinot Gris is an art form unto itself: rich, succulent, fuller bodied, and capable of drawing us into a conversation about its beauty.

For a lovely example, Zinck in Alsace farms organically on the estate vineyards that have been in the family for generations. Zinck Portrait Pinot Gris ($29.99) is ripe and juicy, reminiscent of Anjou pears, with a slightly smoky edge, beautiful weight, and a long finish.

Across the German border, Pinot Gris (Grauburgunder) is something special, particularly in the hands of the Lingenfelder family in the Pfalz. From a choice single vineyard, the Lingenfelder Grauburgunder ($33.99) shows lovely aromatics of ripe fruit with soft acidity, incredible balance, and impressive length.

In Italy, Pinot Grigio is not just everyday fare—it is also capable of elegance and complexity. In the north are the higheraltitude vineyards of Trentino-Alto Adige, where wines offer ripeness balanced by engaging vibrancy and palate-filling depth. Girlan, whose vineyards are south of Bolzano and the Alps, produces Pinot Grigio ($31.99) that is soft and aromatic with bright fruit, floral, and herbal tones. Further east, from hillside vineyards close to the Slovenian border, the Primosic family produce their Collio Pinot Grigio ($30.99). It is aged in old oak for a wine of weight as well as elegance. In the same region, Russiz Superiore Collio Pinot Grigio ($49.99) also shows off what is possible from these hillsides. This complex white is textured, with many international accolades to its credit. And even “everyday” Pinot Grigio can surprise us. Umberto Baccichetto makes a beautiful Pinot Grigio under their Berto & Fiore label. On our first taste, we expected the price to be double what it is (an incredible value at $19.99). It is a wine to love, every day.

This amazing Pinot Grigio is a trend worth chasing. A premium bottle is an affordable luxury, ready for the next dinner party to take you from easy to extraordinary.

Take the Trend to Dinner

Whereas everyday Pinot Grigio is a nice companion to popcorn and patios, these classic wines can be the star of the evening, beautiful with:

• Pasta with mushrooms, either with cream or white wine sauce

• Onion tarts and eggbased dishes

• Cheese dishes

• Seafood and shellfish, grilled or poached

• Grilled salmon

• Roast pork loin

• Indian cuisine

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