The Porcelain Factory

If you’ve ever been to Łódź’s ‘Manufaktura’ or ‘OFF Piotrkowska’ then you’ll kinda get the idea of what this place is trying to be (no, there’s no large shopping centre, but the rest fits the bill). Here since the 1920s and originally the Giesche Porcelain Factory, the modern day ‘Fabryka Porcelany’ is now run by the Giesche Foundation (created in 2012) which has revamped the site to be a post-industrial and technological park housing design offices, art galleries, interior design shops and a concert/event venue known as P23 - any techno fiends among you will know this place means business, oh, yes! You will also find here the fantastic Prodiż Bistro & Prodiż Nero Restaurant - they’re easy to find, as they provide a warm welcome to all visitors at the entrance to the whole complex. Amazingly, the site has been creating porcelain since the 1920s and still has a working furnace involved with production! Even when you arrive, you will immediately spot the huge chimney stack, but if you look to your left (says the tour guide), you will see an odd looking mural. This piece was created by artist Artur Wabik in 2018 and represents porcelain cats that were once made here - to anyone with Polish roots, almost every grandparent in the land had these cats adorning their properties! There are a few porcelain shops here for you to check out (it feels like more than is necessary to epmhasise the site's porcelain roots), should you wish to see the many forms porcelain can be shaped into! A visit to Fabryka Porcelany is worth it, if even just to see this post-industrial plot, which is part of the Industrial Monuments Route (p.50) - a collection of over 40 of the most interesting industrial heritage sites found in 30 towns and cities throughout the Silesian region.

WHAT TO DO

P23

Remember you’re officially in a UNESCO: City of Music - with such an accolade, the city’s venues no doubt punch well above their weight. We guarantee they do. At Fabryka Porcelany, the post-industrial vibe is perfect for one of the top music venues in Poland to be located. Hello, P23. If you haven’t been, we recommend finding yourself an event via their Facebook page and getting some tickets! The interior is spartan, with a knock-up style bar, but with an awesome sound system, the shows that go on here are legendary. And if you’re a fan of techno, then wow, you’re in for a treat at this place. Need we say more? To do so would spoil the fun of going and seeing it all for yourself.

U‐13, ul. Porcelanowa 23.

WHERE TO EAT

PRODIŻ BISTRO

Hearing about this place had us excited for many reasons, not least because we were delighted when Fabryka Porcelany underwent revitalisation - we love old buildings that are given a new lease of life through a perfect blend of traditional elements mixed with modernity. And that’s exactly what Prodiż Bistro offers. A great place to come Mon-Fri for breakfast (until 12:00) and lunch (from 12:00). Choose from daytime favourites like omelettes, sandwiches, (special mention goes to their burgers!) with great coffees, but be aware, the menu changes regularly, so best check out their Facebook page for the latest offerings. One consistent element is the pizza, made in a woodfired oven (Poland’s tallest, apparently!), which gives that extra oomph to the taste. If you miss out on the daytime eating, no worries, for the new venture by the owners is Prodiż Nero, which raised our eyebrows even more - as if one good place wasn’t enough, huh? Enjoy both. We did.QU‐13, ul. Porcelanowa 23, tel. (+48) 667 16 21 05. Open 08:00-20:00; Fri 08:00-22:00; closed Sat, Sun. €€. T ­U ­6

PRODIŻ NERO RESTAURANT

Bistro by day, and Nero by...well, nero. Following on from the success of Prodiż Bistro’s rise in popularity after its opening in 2016 in the revamped Fabryka Porcelany, the owners have stepped up their game with their latest venture - the perfect blend from bistro to fine restaurant has culminated in the arrival of Prodiż Nero. If you’ve been impressed by Bistro, Nero offers up that little bit extra. Italian dishes, offered with the local flare of the chef, which to us perfectly sums up the impressive changes in gastronomy in Katowice over the last 10 years - traditional, mixed with a confident modernity. Nero serves up some fine pizzas from a wood-fired oven (ahem, the tallest in Poland, apparently!) and a frequently changing menu means you’ll always be surprised by each visit (best check their Facebook page for menu updates). The location is unique, the bistro is already awesome, and Nero just continues the good vibe of the area.

U‐13, ul. Porcelanowa 23, tel. (+48) 667 16 21 05. Open Sat 12:00- 22:00; Sun 12:00-20:00 only. €€. T ­U 6

Porcelain cats mural by Artur Wabik.

Photo: Fabryka Porcelany