All Saints Day in Kraków - November 1st

These two days of the calendar year are dedicated to prayer and paying tribute to the deceased by visiting their graves. In accordance with tradition, Catholic families all over Poland will make pilgrimages to the resting places of their relatives, tending the graves with a care that is truly touching, before laying wreaths, flowers and candles that will be kept lit throughout the length of the holiday. As night descends, the country’s graveyards are aglow with the warm light of literally thousands of flickering candles, creating an eerie, incredibly evocative atmosphere that should not be missed by anyone with a heart that still beats.

Like so many customs incorporated into Catholicism, this tradition actually has pagan roots, and was established as a holy day of obligation in 998 to replace the ancient Slavic tradition of ‘Dziady.’ During Dziady (literally, ‘Forefathers’), the living would prepare an elaborate feast to host the souls of those who had passed, believing that on this day they were able to leave the afterlife and return to their families. Places were set at the table for the ancestors and fires were often lit on the road showing them the way to the house. A soul forgotten at Dziady would bring on bad luck. [For this reason we challenge you to find an unloved grave, however unlikely, and light a candle there.]

As it happens, Kraków is perhaps Poland’s most evocative, ‘necropolitan’ city in which to witness the events. While visitors to the city may not have ancestors buried here, a trip to one of Kraków’s cemeteries during this unforgettable ceremony is, indeed, requisite. While we could wax poetic about the unearthly glow of the immense candlelight, the murmur of prayer and psalms, the subtle smells of the incense, fresh flowers and burning wax, the shades of ravens in the trees, the wet grass and mists, and the surreal duality of the supernaturally charged, yet tranquil atmosphere, we’d prefer you just experience it for yourself. Take a candle along with you.

Note that November 1st is a bank holiday (and falls on a Friday in 2019); only public transportation and emergency response employees are obliged to work this day, so don’t be surprised to find your favourite shop, restaurant or bar bolted shut. Kraków’s Catholic cemeteries, in contrast, will be open until last guest, with special trams running until late in the night; use krakow.jakdojade.pl to find connections, or simply follow the crowds. Don’t worry, candles of all varieties can be bought outside the cemetery gates, as well as flowers - fresh or fake, traditional sweets and raosted nuts.

RAKOWICKI CEMETERY

The largest and most important of Krakow’s cemeteries, Rakowicki is also its most moving site during All Saints’. Within the astounding candlelight you’ll find many fine examples of sepulchral art, as well as impressive memorials to Poland’s 20th century struggles. Across the street is Kraków’s Military Cemetery (M-1 ), and together they represent an important source of Polish patriotism. A twenty minute walk from the market square, or take a tram to ‘Cmentarz Rakowicki - the end of the line - and follow the throng from there.Q M-2, ul. Rakowicka 26.

NEW PODGÓRZE CEMETERY

This large, picturesque memorial park is our favourite cemetery to visit over the holiday thanks to its basin-shape which creates an amphitheatre of coloured candlelight. Located behind Krakus Mound (p.50), if visiting on All Souls’ Day (Nov. 2nd) don’t be surprised to find locals celebrating modern paganism on top of the mound around midnight, from which you can also catch views of every cemetery in Kraków glowing in the distance. To get there fetch a tram to ‘Cmentarz Podgórski.’Q N-12, ul. Wapienna 13.

SALWATOR CEMETERY

On the hillside beneath Kościuszko Mound (p.58), this cemetery lies in one of Kraków’s most beautiful districts. A more intimate affair than Rakowicki, souls that report here will enjoy spookier surroundings with grand views of the city and valley below. It’s also more of a pilgrimage: take tram number 1 to its terminus at Salwator and enjoy the picturesque 10 minute stroll uphill along tree-lined ul. Św. Bronisławy.Q C-8, Al. Waszyngtona 1.