Christmas in Krakow

Few places in Europe seem more suited for the holiday season than Kraków, a city which when donning a dusting of fresh snow and viewed through its own cheerful prism of holiday magic, quite convincingly transforms itself into an intricate village of gingerbread houses with candycane columns, gumdrop-topped gables and chimneys puffing cotton candy clouds over vanilla-iced rooftops. Give this snow-globe a shake and suddenly the sound of tourist trolleys zipping around blasting pop hits has been overcome by – what’s that on the horse carriages – sleigh-bells jingling? The smells of coal-smoke and pigeon dander have been replaced by caramelised sugar and hot spiced wine. The obwarzanki (Cracovian bagel) vendors are peddling toys and tinselly trinkets. The flower market is filled with wreaths and evergreens. Where that obnoxious guy used to shred guitar solos, costumed children are carolling. Where that gold-painted hobo used to stand motionless on a box all day for small change – why, it’s Saint Nicholas himself (doing the very same thing)!

Indeed, when Kraków decks its halls for the holidays it seems to rather effortlessly embody all the magic that Hollywood has taught us Christmas is supposed to have. It’s not all rum-pa-pum-pum and reindeer games, however. Poland has a full calendar of holiday customs and traditions, many of them Catholic in character, that stretch from early December all the way into January, and which will surely make your experience here a unique, and even at times completely foreign one. We help you get into the local spirit by detailing them below, so you’ll be wellread and ready when you find yourself smitten in mittens beneath the mistletoe.

THE MARKET SQUARE CHRISTMAS FAIR (NOV. 27 - JAN. 7)

Undoubtedly the highlight of the local holiday season, the tradition of this annual Christmas fair began before WWII, was paused during the PRL era and then rekindled after the fall of communism (you know, when people were allowed to buy and possess things again). Occupying almost half of the enormous Rynek Główny, the fair features stall upon wooden stall selling all kinds of folk art and Christmas ornaments, candies and sweets, regional products, knitwear, toys, souvenirs, jewellery, pottery, partridges, pear trees and more. Food vendors also dish up hot regional food, which families share over picnic tables, while keeping warm with hot mulled wine (called ‘grzaniec’) dispensed from enormous wooden barrels on the square. A cultural stage presents a nearly constant flow of carollers, folk acts, theatrical performances and random acts of holiday spirit. Integral to the holiday experience in Kraków, and simply impossible to miss.Q I-5, www.kiermasze.com. pl. Open 10:00-20:00.

The annual Kraków Christmas Market on Rynek Główny.

© Mariusz Cieszewski

SZOPKI KRAKOWSKIE

The creation of ‘Christmas cribs’ or ‘szopki’ is one of Kraków’s most unique and Christmas traditions. While many churches across the country display elaborate nativity scenes during the holiday season, ‘szopki krakowskie’ (as the local variety are called) are so idiosyncratic that they were just added to the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage List. Something of a strange and garish cross between a nativity scene, gingerbread house and dollhouse, szopki krakowskie are the bizarre result of a slowly evolving folk tradition that dates back to the Middle Ages. Originally used as puppet theatres for holiday morality plays, Cracovian szopki gradually became more whimsical, secular and satirical in nature, leading to a ban by the Church in the 1700s, and full prohibition in the 1800s due to their political use for criticising PL’s occupying powers. Upon Poland’s return to the world map after World War I, Kraków’s szopka tradition was re-embraced, becoming the celebrated custom it is today. Szopki are made by all walks of life, from preschool classes to expert craftsmen, with family dynasties even emerging. Using a variety of lightweight materials covered with coloured foil, ribbon and other shiny bits, a typical szopka is bright, flashy and festive. Though called ‘cribs’ in English, szopki look more like castles or cathedrals, incorporating recognisable characteristics from Kraków’s architectural monuments into the traditional Bethlehem nativity scene. Most are loosely-based off the design of St. Mary’s Basilica, but elements of other iconic buildings like Wawel Castle, the Cloth Hall and the Barbican are also commonly seen, as well figures from Cracovian legend like Pan Twardowski, Tadeusz Kościuszko or the Wawel dragon.

A Cracovian Christmas Crib in all its glory

SZOPKI EXHIBITION (DEC. 9 - FEB. 23)

To support this unique folk tradition, the city has sponsored a yearly competition since 1937, followed by the annual szopki exhibition. Visiting the exhibition is an essential part of the holiday season for local families, so don’t miss it.QL‐4, Celestat, ul. Lubicz 16, www.muzeumkrakowa. pl. Admission 9/7zł, Tue free. Open 09:00-18:00.

SZOPKI PO KRAKOWIE (DEC. 5 - FEB. 2)

In addition to the official exhibition in Celestat, the city has also placed glass-ensconced szopki from the collection of the Kraków Museum in public places all around the Old Town, from squares to shops to restaurants. Numbering 40 in total, keep your eyes peeled for them as you stroll the city centre during the holiday season.

© Robert Słuszniak

CHRISTMAS EVE (DEC. 24)

December 24th – or ‘Wigilia’ as it’s called in PL - is one of the biggest feast days of the year and an important time to be with family. As such, though Wigilia is not a work holiday you can expect virtually every shop in Kraków to close early and stay closed until the 27th, so arrange accordingly. On the afternoon of the Eve on Kraków’s main square, free food is given out to the poor and the length and composition of the resultant queues is a bit of a holiday spectacle in itself.

In the evening it’s tradition that those gathered to eat the vigil feast together first share the blessed Christmas wafer, called opłatek. In an intimate (and potentially awkward if you don’t speak Polish) moment, each person goes to the others in turn, making a blessing for their happiness in the coming year, breaking off a piece of the other person’s wafer and eating it, then sealing the deal with a kiss (or three) on the cheek. Once that formality is out of the way, and the kids have spotted the first star in the sky, the feast can officially begin. Traditionally, bits of hay are spread beneath the tablecloth in observance of Jesus’ manger pedigree, and an extra place is set at the table in case of a visit by the ‘hungry traveller,’ Baby Jesus himself or a deceased relative (whoever arrives first).

Dinner consists of a gut-busting twelve courses – one for each of Jesus’ disciples – and because it’s meant to be meatless, the main dish is traditionally carp, which apparently isn’t recognised as meat by Catholics (fish was Jesus’ favourite vegetable). In the days before Wigilia, large, writhing, mildly horrifying pools of carp can be found on the city’s squares waiting to be purchased and brought home for holiday dinner. During the scarcity of the communist times, it wasn't uncommon for the carp to be bought early and kept in the family bathtub for several days until it was time for the man of the house to clobber it, carve it and cook it. The dish was then served cold on Christmas Eve. ‘Smacznego!’ (Bon Appetit).

A Christmas carp during the communist era.

Other traditional dishes include żurek and barszcz – the traditional soups, poppy-seed pastries (makowiec), herring in oil (śledz), pickles and an assortment of other Polish salads and sides. The meal concludes with a round of belt-unbuckling, carol-singing and gift-unwrapping after the revelation that during the feast an angel has laid presents beneath the Christmas tree (St. Nick also gets an off-day for Wigilia). Alcoholic abstinence is the Wigila tradition most commonly overlooked, however, at midnight, most families head out in the cold to attend pasterka, or midnight mass.

TRADITIONAL NATIVITY SCENES (SZOPKI) (DEC. 24 - FEB. 2)

It is on Wigilia that Kraków's churches also debut their holiday 'szopki' - which unlike the rather bonkers local mutation ('szopki krakowskie' - see p.6), more resemble traditional nativity scenes centred around baby Jesus in the manger. As you wander the Old Town between December 24th and February 2nd, don't miss the chance to check out some of these elaborate displays. Of particular note are St. Bernard's Church (J-8, ul. Bernardyńska 2), which usually has the most expansive and extensively motorised nativity in town; the Pijarów Church (J-4, ul. Pijarska 2), which has developed a reputation for having each year’s most unconventional szopka on display in its crypt; and the Kapucynów Church (H-5, ul. Loretańska 11) where you can see one of the most popular szopki in Poland, dating back to the 19th century.

Crowd gathered around the nativity scene in St. Bernard’s Church

CHRISTMAS DAY (DEC. 25)

After another morning mass, December 25th is reserved for visiting family and friends and a continuation of feasting (this time including meat and alcohol). While Christmas Day holds less importance and symbolism for Poles than Christmas Eve, it is still a public holiday and a time for family. Despite the gradual moves by many, particularly the younger generation, away from the Catholic Church in recent years, Christmas is still viewed with more religious significance than you might expect in your own country and even those who might not attend mass on a regular basis still respect the traditions of the holiday period. As such, you can expect the vast majority of bars and restaurants to be closed on Christmas Day and the Second Day of Christmas (December 26th), though some businesses are beginning to break this Catholic code of conduct.

LIVE NATIVITY AT ST. FRANCIS' BASILICA (DEC. 24-25)

While most of the city is shut down over Christmas as people spend time with their families, there is one event to get out into town for. Beginning late on Christmas Eve (22:30-24:00) and then occupying most of Christmas Day (14:00-19:00)​, St. Francis’ Basilica (I-6) hosts an annual ‘live nativity scene’ in the field behind the church featuring large crowds, lots of singing children, a raging bonfire and live animals. [Though according to legend animals acquire the ability to speak during Wigilia, as far as we’ve observed it’s back to barnyard banter with this lot the following days.] Free food and drink (tea and bread) is served within one of the church buildings, and just about everyone in town will be stopping by at some point over the holiday.

Paid actors in the annual Live Nativity at St. Francis’ Basilica.

SAY IT LIKE A LOCAL

“Wesołych Świąt i Szczęśliwego Nowego Roku!”

Ve-so-wick Shvee-ont (“Merry Christmas...”) ee Shchen-shlee-vay-go No-vay-go Row-koo! (“...and happy New Year!”)

NEW YEAR’S EVE (DEC. 31)

December 31st is known locally as Sylwester, and on this last night of the year every bar, club, restaurant and hotel in town will be hosting an all-night New Year’s Eve bash. Unfortunately, you have to pay to play and it’s wise to plan where you want to spend your evening since expensive tickets are required to enter most venues, and therefore pub crawling is not an option. Your celebratory options are literally limitless, but if it's the last night of the year and you're still at a loss, you can always join the masses taking part in the free shenanigans the city has organised.

The ball drops on Rynek Podgórski. Happy New Year!

© Robert Słuszniak

In keeping with the city’s steady battle against smog, this year’s festivities will again be without fireworks, opting for confetti instead (less noise, less smoke, more cleanup). When it comes to entertainment, there will be three stages: the main market square (I-5), Rynek Podgórski (K/L-10) and Aleja Róż in Nowa Huta (R-3). On the market square stage adjacent to the Town Hall Tower performers will include Polish stars Jan Rapowanie, Andrzej Dąbrowski, Krystyna Prońko, Ten Typ Mes, Ralph Kaminski (project Albo Inaczej), Paulina Przybysz, and Tetris; just after midnight, electro-pop duo The Dumplings will give a farewell concert. The largest party may be in Nowa Huta, just off of Plac Centralny, where legendary DJ Hirek Wrona and local DJ Mazubar will help the district celebrate its 70th anniversary. Meanwhile, the Podgórze Market Square will be transformed into a large ballroom straight from the past, where you will have an opportunity to learn 19th century dances. For updates and exact details, check out the online programme on the city's dedicated website: sylwester. krakow.pl/en.

THREE KINGS DAY (JAN. 6)

The spirit of the holiday season is kept strong across the country until January 6th – Three Kings Day or Dzień Trzech Króli. On this day mass is compulsory, of course, and with the Parliament making Three Kings an official work holiday again in 2011, there’s no longer any excuse for missing church. After prayers, it's time join in a Three Kings Day procession - a merry parade of costumed carollers passing out candy, which honours the three wise men who visited Jesus at his birth. This year in Kraków you have three processions to choose from, each led by a different king, or magi. The Red Procession, symbolising Europe, will depart from Wawel Castle at 11:00, after a 10:00 mass in Wawel Cathedral (I-7); the Blue Procession, symbolising Africa, will start depart from Plac Matejki at 11:00 after a mass in St. Florian's Church (J- 4); and the Green Procession, symbolising Asia will depart from ul. Konferedecka in Dębniki (G/H-9) at 10:30. All three processions will make their way to the Main Market Square (I-5), arriving around 11:45 for a bit of baby adoration during a live nativity, and plenty more carolling.

Another tradition associated with Three Kings is writing the initials of their names – Kaspar, Melchior and Balthazar – in chalk on the front door or above the threshold of the house. In Kraków this honour is reserved for a priest who visits during the holiday season, blessing the house for the coming year by inscribing the commonly seen ‘K + M + B 2020’ (for a small donation of course).

The Three Kings Day Procession leaving Wawel Castle.

© Anna Kaczmarz9

The decorations actually stay up and the Polish holiday season doesn’t officially expire until February 2nd when we suppose Saint Nick sees his shadow and it’s generally agreed that every family should toss their Christmas tree to the curb. For more holiday happenings around this merry ‘miasto’, including other holiday markets and the Great Orchestra of Christmas Charity, head to our Events section (p.12), and have yourselves a merry little Christmas, one and all.