Poznań's Old Town Tour

While Poznań is relatively spread out, the bulk of its tourist attractions are located within its historical Old Town and west towards the train tracks, where the Imperial Castle resides. This is the area covered by this walking tour; for places of interest further away from the centre, including Ostrów Tumski and Citadel Park, see relevant sections up ahead, on pages 38-43. The tour is approximately 2km long and can take as little as half an hour if you dash through it, though for the more inquisitive tourist a few hours seems more likely. Meandering through the Old Town streets is encouraged, as are breaks for coffee, beer, or your poison of choice in the city’s many cosy cafes and beer gardens.

1 LESSER BASILICA OF ST. STANISLAUS

One of Poznań’s most impressive historic monuments, the Lesser Basilica of St. Stanislaus, which it became in October 2010, was created as a Jesuit temple in the 17th century. It boasts an interior by a veritable who’s who of Roman Baroque artists, with some fine period ornamentation found in the chapels of the Holy Cross (which features a 16th-century crucifix), and the Virgin Mary (which has a precious copy of the painting of The Mother of God of Incessant Help). The Basilica hosts organ concerts played on an instrument dating from 1876 on Saturdays at 12:15.

ul. Gołębia 1, tel. (+48) 61 852 69 50, www.fara. archpoznan.pl. Open 06:00-19:30.

Photo by Zbigniew Ratajczak. Courtesy of City of Poznań

2 UL. ŻYDOWSKA

Originally called ul. Sukiennicza (Cloth Hall Street), this unassuming lane became the de facto centre of Jewish life as early as the 13th century, when the first Jewish settlers in Poznań were given plots of land here. Eventually renamed Judenstrasse and later ul. Żydowska (both meaning simply Jewish Street), it retained this character until the tragedy of the Holocaust.

ul. Żydowska

While here, keep an eye out for the former Salomon Beniamin Latz Home for the Elderly and Infirm (ul. Żydowska 15/18). Established in 1908 after the Latz foundation swapped properties with the Jewish Community, the home took the place of three synagogues that used to exist at the address; meanwhile, the foundation’s former hospital at ul. Wroniecka was torn down to make room for the New Synagogue. If you manage to get in (the building is currently residential), traces of the in-house synagogue’s balcony can be seen in the stairwell. Another building of note is the former Jewish Library at ul. Żydowska 32, founded in 1904.

Closer to the market square, the unassuming Church of the Most Holy Blood of Jesus (ul. Żydowska 34) is a testament to the vicious anti-Semitism that plagued the city for much of its history. As the sordid story goes, in 1399 several local Jews managed to get ahold of Christian sacramental bread and desecrated it by placing it on a table and stabbing it with a knife, whereupon blood burst from the wafers. Terrified, the Jews attempted to bury the hosts, only to find that the stubborn things would magically unbury themselves and float about in the air. Lesser Basilica of St. Stanislaus

When a young shepherd found them floating above the marshes, a chapel was erected at the site - later rebuilt as the Corpus Christi Church - and the perps were harshly punished. This fabulous yarn was passed down among the city’s Christian populace for centuries, and when a mysterious blood-stained table was found hidden in the building at ul. Żydowska 34 in the 17th century, it was immediately deemed to be the piece of furniture involved in the infamous act of sacrilege and carried to the Corpus Christi Church in a procession of several thousand. The building itself was transformed into the Church of the Most Holy Blood of Jesus; dare to venture inside and you’ll be greeted with an 18th-century fresco portraying the Jewish trio at their nefarious task assisted by none other than the devil. The only good thing we can say here is that an antique plaque referring to the profanation of the hosts, which used to adorn the church’s facade, was taken down in 2005 by the archbishop; better late than never.Q I‑6/7, ul. Żydowska.

3 NEW SYNAGOGUE

New Synagogue

Roweromaniak CC BY-SA 2.5

Consecrated on September 5, 1907, the New Synagogue on ul. Wroniecka was once a much more lavish structure. Designed by Berlin architects Cremer & Wolfenstein at a cost of one million marks (to put things in perspective, the cost of the Imperial Castle came to five million), the synagogue boasted a floor plan based on the Greek cross, space for 1,200 worshippers (600 men, 600 women), and originally included a copper-plated dome. Following the outbreak of WWII the building was commandeered by the Nazis and redeveloped into a swimming pool and rehabilitation centre for Wehrmacht soldiers. After the war the synagogue continued to function as a municipal pool - leading some to jokingly brand it the ‘swimagogue’ - until the poor state of the building forced its closure. Returned to the Jewish community in 2002, a gallery was opened instead, sporadically hosting free exhibits. Though plans have been raised to adapt it into a community centre complete with prayer halls, kosher restaurant, and conference facilities, the small problem of raising what was once estimated at $50 million USD (the number may be higher now) proved too large an obstacle. More recently, plans have been made to convert the building into a commemorative museum, with or without an upscale hotel attached, but for now the synagogue continues to stand empty. ul. Wroniecka 11A.

4 CITY FORTIFICATIONS

As a typical central European city, Poznań of course was once snugly encircled by city walls and a moat, with four gates guarding the passage into the narrow streets. Along the walls rose a number of defensive towers named after the guilds who were normally responsible for manning them: there was the Wheelwright Tower, Butcher Tower, and Cloth Tower, to name a few. Originally built sometime in the 13th century, the fortifications were unfortunately largely destroyed during the Swedish Deluge in the 17th century and later invasions of the city, and what was left was almost completely taken apart by the Prussians in the 19th and early 20th centuries to make room for new building projects. One of those was a rather splendid neo-Gothic fire station, which - lovingly refurbished - survives to this day at ul. Masztalarska 3. Passing through its courtyard is a stretch of reconstructed city wall and two rebuilt towers: Baszta Strażacka (Firefighter Tower, not the original name), and Baszta Katarzynek, once part of a convent inhabited by Dominican nuns (then known as ‘Katarzynki’). Part of a third tower, Baszta Armatnia (Artillery Tower) stands on the Roman Wilhelmi Square. Completed in 2008, the resurrected city fortifications are a lovely place for a (short) stroll north of the main square.

H‑6, Between Skwer Rabbina Akiwy Egera & Skwer Romana Wilhelmiego. The Old Fire Station on ul. Masztalarska 3 (H-7).

5 ROYAL CASTLE

Royal Castle

Photo by Diego Delso, CC BY-SA 4.0

Every European city worth its salt has a castle, and Poznań actually has two. Indeed, the 20th century ‘Zamek’ west of the Old Town is neither Poznań’s oldest, nor most important castle. Wander just one block west of the market square and you’ll find yourself at the foot of Góra Przemysła, crowned by Poznań’s former Royal Castle. Once the pride of Poznań, the original construction was begun approximately 1249 by Przemysł I - Duke of the Piast dynasty who had chosen Poz as his capital. Work on the royal residence was continued by his son, and by the time Kazimierz the Great (a prince at the time) moved in in the early 14th century, Poznań’s Royal Castle was the largest non-ecclesiastical building in Poland. Its fortunes took a serious turn for the worse in early 18th century when it was sacked several times in quick succession by the Swedes, the Russians, and then disgruntled nobles. Governor General Kazimierz Raczyński restored the medieval buildings and created a state archive here in 1783 - a function it would serve until WWII. During the Siege of 1945, the castle had the misfortune of being in the line of fire with the Nazi stronghold on Citadel Hill and that was that. In 1959 the decision was taken to rebuild Raczyński’s contribution to the hill, which today houses the Applied Arts Museum. Until recently, the Castle’s rich historical value as the seat of early Polish royalty, numerous royal births, weddings, and treaty signings seems to have been undervalued, but that’s in the past now. Between 2010 and 2016 the castle underwent a total restoration, and is now fully open, including the castle tower, observation decks, and Prince Przemysł I Hall.

Góra Przemysła. Admission 12/8zł. Tue free.

STARY BROWAR

© Michal Gabryelski

Housed in an old brewery dating from 1844, the awardwinning Stary Browar complex has been dubbed an art, leisure, and shopping extravaganza, and its success a sign of Poznań’s economic renaissance. Its opening in 2003 also marked a successful move away from out-of-town developments, and a new trend for inner-city regeneration projects. Originally home to the Huggerów Brewery, the building produced beer until 1980, then mineral water until 1998, when it was bought by the Fortis Group and a $66 million USD investment transformed it into the shopping and entertainment Mecca it is today. Home to tonnes of art and outstanding design details, Stary Browar also features a 5-star hotel, cinema, fitness club, dozens of restaurants, cafes, and bars, and over 200 retail spaces, in which you’ll find both name brands and popular chain stores.Q G‑9, ul. Półwiejska 42, tel. (+48) 61 859 60 50, www.starybrowar5050.com. Open 09:0021:00; Fri, Sat 09:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-20:00.

BOOK A TOUR bit.ly/PoznanWalkingTour

6 FRANCISCAN CHURCH

Franciscan Church

Photo by Mikołaj Borowicz. Courtesy of City of Poznań

Built in the years 1674-1728, there’s seemingly not much to this church just off the market square. Hidden behind the bland exterior, however, is an absolute explosion of Baroque over-indulgence, with colourful carved wood, stucco, and paintings by local monk Adam Swach. His brother, Antoni, designed the high altar and ornamented stalls, which literally jump out at you in their bright flamboyance. It’s a spectacle worth seeing, but visitors also flock to this church to see the Marian shrine, which has housed a famous picture of the Miracle-Working Virgin Mary, also known as the Lady of Poznań, for 300 years.

H‑7, ul. Franciszkańska 2, tel. (+48) 61 852 36 37, www.poznan.franciszkanie.pl. Open 06:30-19:00.

7 PLAC WOLNOŚCI

Plac Wolności

Photo by HRS Poland

Though it is difficult to imagine now, Poznań’s large and typically empty ‘Freedom Square’ was once the heart of the city - a favourite spot of the upper classes for strolls and coffee. Originally named Wilhelmsplatz (William’s Square) in honour of King Frederick William III of Prussia, it was demarcated by the city’s new Prussian authorities at the very end of the 18th century, soon after Poland was wiped off the map by the three partitioning forces of Prussia, Russia, and Austria-Hungary. The main reason for a square this large? Big-headed higher-ups needed a representative space capable of containing an entire infantry regiment during military parades. In the years leading up to the Great War the square underwent numerous changes, as Polish and Prussian institutions vied for space and influence, encircling the space with buildings designed according to the latest architectural fashion; those included St. Adalbert’s Publishing House (now St. Adalbert’s Bookstore aka Księgarnia Św. Wojciecha, no. 1), the Haase Department Store (no. 4), the Brandt Department Store (no. 8), the Raczyński Library (no. 19), the Provincial Museum in Posen (now a National Museum building, Al. Marcinkowskiego 9), and Bazar Hotel (Al. Marcinkowskiego 10). A monument to the 1866 PrussoAustrian Battle of Nachod popped up, as did a figure of King Wilhelm III; both were torn down triumphantly when Poznań returned to Polish hands following WWI, and the square was given its current name. It wouldn’t last; after a blissful 20 interwar years, during which the square functioned as the cultural centre of Poznań, the square was dug open with trenches in preparation for WWII, and soon German forces once again marched in, renaming the square - you guessed it - Wilhelmsplatz. After the war (and another name change), Plac Wolności was rebuilt according to the concept of Milewski and Skupniewicz, with trees cut down and a Hygieia statue (which had been placed on the square in 1908 to commemorate the expansion of the city waterworks) moved in front of the Raczyński Library. In 2005 a large underground parking lot was added, and in 2012 Freedom Square’s most recognizable landmark was unveiled - the Freedom Fountain (Fontanna Wolności), a geometric structure with two 10-metre wings (or sails) made out of glass. Nowadays the square is the go-to for protests and demonstrations.

8 OKRĄGLAK

Okrąglak

Photo by Przemysław Turlej

Looking for remnants of the People’s Republic? Cast your camera to the western end of ul. Grudnia (A-2), where the imposing Okrąglak (Rotunda) presides over a four-point intersection. This cylindrical marvel is one of Poznań’s defining icons and has been a listed building since 2003. Constructed between 1948 and 1954 this beast is a leading example of Polish modernism, built to a blueprint by Marek Leykam. Originally slated to be ten storeys, this eight floor masterpiece once housed Poznań’s top department store, and it was here that during the lean years of communism locals would queue to buy ‘luxury’ products unavailable elsewhere. After years of abject neglect, in 2011-2012 the Okrąglak was restored and converted into 51,000 square metres of A-class office space.

ul. Mielżyńskiego 14, www.okraglakpoznan.pl.

9 IMPERIAL CASTLE

More a palace than a ‘castle,’ work began on Poznań’s fearsome ‘Zamek’ in 1905 to serve as the provincial residence of Kaiser Wilhelm II. Designed in the neo-Romanesque style by Franz Schwechten, the west wing held Wilhelm’s living quarters, the east wing his immaculate throne room, with the northern part of the complex consisting of service rooms and beautiful gardens based on the Alhambra’s Courtyard of the Lions. The Kaiser got the keys in 1910 but didn’t stay long before WWI and the following Wielkopolska Uprising resulted in a Polish Poznań once again. Between the wars the Zamek became the seat of Poznań University, before the Third Reich swooped in and Albert Speer, Hitler’s pet architect, transformed the tower chapel into the Fuehrer’s office, and the second floor into the residence of Arthur Greiser (Nazi governor of the district). The castle was badly damaged during the Soviet liberation and there was even a post-war campaign to have the structure bulldozed. In the end the drastic measures stopped with reducing the principal tower to a third of its original height.

Imperial Castle

Photo by Radomil, CC BY-SA 3.0

Used by the University in the two years following the war, and then as the seat of local government, the Zamek has operated as a cultural centre since 1962, hosting hundreds of theatre performances, concerts, film screenings and other events in its palatial halls each year. The basement houses the 1956 Uprising Museum, and throughout the large complex visitors will find several restaurants, cafes and bars, including the popular Dubliner Irish Pub. Guided tours of the castle in English are available for 150zł but must be booked in advance by calling +48 61 646 52 88.Q F‑7, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82, tel. (+48) 61 646 52 60, www.ckzamek.pl. Open 10:00-22:00. Free admission without tour.

ALPHAS

Photo by Radomil, CC BY-SA 3.0

Widely considered the buildings that ruined ul. Święty Marcin, the ‘Alphas’ are an architectural nightmare from the deep People’s Republic, more due to their current dishevelled state and unfortunate contrast with neighbouring townhouses than due to the actual design. These five modernist high-rises connected by a sprawling two-level gallery with shops and services are actually very similar to the Hötorget buildings in Stockholm and high-rises along Prager Straße in Dresden. Born a bit later than their counterparts in other countries, they were built between 1965 and 1972, designed by Poznań architect Jerzy Liśniewicz. To make room for this new ‘cosmopolitan’ complex, 19th century houses had to be torn down, but the end result fulfilled its goals – it modernized the street and drew communist-era masses, impoverished and longing for more consumerist options, to its relatively well-stocked shop windows. Recently, the stretch of ul. Św. Marcin along the Alphas underwent a major overhaul, and is now a more welcoming, pedestrian-oriented area with outdoor art installations and a modest amount of greenery, if the visualisations are to be believed. The Alphas too are set for renovation, though complicating matters is the fact that each has a different owner. We‘re keeping our fingers crossed for results, as - for better or worse – the Alphas remain one of Poznań’s most characteristic structures.QF/G‐7, ul. Św. Marcin 40-72.

NEON ART

POZNAŃ NIGHTINGALES NEON

This playful neon art, portraying a flock of colourful nightingales sitting on a five-line music staff and lighting up in rapid succession, has been installed on the facade of the Philharmonic to honour its “Poznań Nightingales” choir. Founded in the early days of WWII by a nineteen-year-old named Stefan Stuligrosz, the men’s and boys’ choir initially staged underground performances in Poznań churches as an act of resistance against Nazi occupation. After the war they were taken under the wing of the Philharmonic, with Stuligrosz acting as the choir’s artistic director as well as the president of the Poznań Music Academy. The neon was created in 1974 by Antoni Rzyski and symbolises Stuligrosz (the yellow nightingale at the bottom of the staff, whose light doesn’t flicker off ) and his singers. It’s worth to note that the Poznań Nightingales are of no relation to the Polish Nightingales, another Poznań choir which has been implicated in a horrific child abuse scandal - just in case you were wondering. ul. Św. Marcin 81.