Jeżyce

Poznań’s Coolest Neighbourhood

A mix of architectural styles and street art in Jeżyce

Grungy and hip, Jeżyce serves as an alternative to the Old Town, offering good eats, cool street art, and a few historical attractions.

Almost all of Poland’s major cities seem to have a gravitational centre of charm in the beloved‘Old Town’ of each, and Poznań is no different. However, after a millennia of business-as-usual, the old school charisma will eventually be challenged by a grungier, cheaper and generally younger community somewhere further out. In Poznań, this area is Jeżyce - a happening neighbourhood to the west of the city centre and welldeserving of the ‘cool’ adjective! In the 21st century, Poznań’s increasingly hipster and food-obsessed district might not be much of a looker, but there’s plenty brewing under the surface if you’re interested in doing some more alternative sightseeing.

First mentioned all the way back in 1253 and believed to have been named after some guy called Jerzy (George), nothing would really happen here until the mid 19th century. The ‘foundation’ of the original village can be observed along today’s ul. Kościelna, which today functions like the district’s high street. The city’s first railway station was built here in 1848; however, it was relocated a couple of decades later to where it is now. On the older site, the city’s first zoo was founded in 1871. Those who are against animals in captivity can at least appreciate the old pavilion buildings and green parklands, though the site’s main purpose is hard to ignore! Further development in the early 20th century saw townhouses replacing farming infrastructure and the grounds of the all-important Botanical Gardens. If you look at the district on Google Maps, you’ll see that it is squarely-defined by the limits of the major roads to the west and south and the old fortifications and railway line to the north and east. These strict borders were part of a decision made in the 1890s to place limits on the district, which then defined Jeżyce Market Square as its centre. However, Jeżyce is typically associated with covering at least another couple of square kilometres to the west.

In addition to the neighbourhood’s trendy gastro points (see our favourites in the Eat & Drink box), Jeżyce is also a place to sample culture. Most notably, keep an eye on the schedule at the New Theatre (E-6, ul. Dąbrowskiego 5, teatrnowy.pl) and Rialto Cinema (p.51).

Getting There

Exceedingly easy to get to from the centre, take trams 2, 17 or 18. The ‘Rynek Jeżycki’ stop is the logical place to start, which puts you right on the neighbourhood’s market square, and at the bottom of ul. Kościelna - the district’s high street.

What to See

Jeżyce Market Square

For many, Jeżyce is synonymous with its market square, wherea daily open-air market still functions (open 06:00-20:00; closed Sun). Laid out in 1891, this was once one of the city’s finest public squares, as evidenced by the faded glory of some of the intricate Art Nouveau facades on the tenement buildings that surround it. Lately the area has been going through a bit of a resurgence, and though the market itself may be a bit tatty and you can hardly expect English to be spoken or understood, the 400 merchant stalls here are still a good place to pick up fresh fruit and vegetables, as well as peruse clothing and other random goods you might be wiser not to take home. You certainly won’t beat the prices.QC‑6, Rynek Jeżycki.

ul. Kościelna & WW2 Air Raid Shelter

Running north from Rynek Jeżycki, this is a good street to explore and get a vibe for the neighbourhood, as it features many cafes, restaurants, ice cream parlours and divey student bars, as well as several large murals. ‘Church Street’ takes its name from the Church of the Sacred Heart of Jesus & St. Florian - a red-brick beauty that squats on the southern end of the road and was consecrated in 1911.

Further on near ul. Kościelna 50 you’ll find the entrance to an underground WWII-era air raid shelter. Built by the Nazis in 1943, this was a civilian shelter that could hold up to 150 people and was for Germans only; Polish residents of Poznań were not admitted. As it happens, Poznań was the target of three Allied air raids, but the air raid alarm was sounded on at least 130 occasions, during which Germans living in the tenements nearby would pack into this underground bunker, which was lit with kerosene and carbine lamps and included a toilet

Eat & Drink

Jeżyce is all about those hipster eats, and you might do well to just wander around and see what catches your eye. That being said, here are a few of our favourite places to dine.

ALEkosmos

Awesome breakfast and coffee spot featuring a lush tangle of houseplants planted in a bathtub. See p.60.QB‑6, ul. Jackowskiego 43.

Falla

This hip Jeżyce bistro turns out falafel bowls so delicious and beautifully presented it’ll make you want to weep for joy. See p.63.QB‑6, ul. Wawrzyniaka 19.

U Aipo

A delightful hole-in-the-wall serving authentic Kyrgyz cuisine. See p.64.QC‑6, ul. Szamarzewskiego 8.

Wypas

Widely regarded as Poz’s best vegan haunt, this underground restaurant is known for heaping portions of international dishes. See p.64.QB‑6, ul. Jackowskiego 38.

and sink. After the war the shelter was used to store municipal waste, and later as a homeless shelter. Since 2019 it has been maintained by a passionate group of locals who have installed artefacts and exhibits about the site’s history and it is open to the public as a small museum every Sunday from 14:0019:00; to inquire about visiting other times email robmenesiak@gmail.com.QC/D‑4/5.

Curiosity Crossroads: Sołacz

Photo by W. A. Jóźwiak. Courtesy of City of Poznań

This lush green district just north of Jeżyce might be small, but it is a lovely place for a walk if you do find yourself in this area. Originally its own village located outside of Poznań, Sołacz took on its current shape and character at the beginning of the 20th century, when architect and urban planner Josef Stübben oversaw its evolution into a luxury villa district. The neighbourhood is bisected by the Bogdanka Stream, running through two parks: Park Sołacki (B/C-2/3) and Park Adama Wodziczki (D/E-3). Park Sołacki is the bigger of the two and occupied by two ponds in addition to a 1911 pavilion housing the Port Sołacz restaurant (p.66). With no fence hemming it in you’re free to wander the more than 14 hectares it covers and enjoy the peace and quiet anytime you like. Just steps away is a 4-hectare arboretum with over 800 kids of trees (A-2, ul. Wojska Polskiego 71E; open 10:00-18:00 Mon-Fri), and, beyond that, the peaceful Lake Rusałka (p.54). The Old Zoo

One of Poland’s oldest zoos, the Old Zoo dates to 1874 and still has some picturesque old pavilions, but most of the critters have been carted off to the New Zoo on the other side of the city, and the Old Zoo has largely been reshaped as a public park. There is, however, a modern Reptile House here, where you can watch Komodo dragons strutting their stuff, pythons slithering, and caimans splashing around. It’s worth the admission price, and enjoyable to visit without the exhaustion and crowds of the New Zoo.QD‑7, ul. Zwierzyniecka 19, tel. (+48) 61 848 08 47, www.zoo. poznan.pl. Open 09:00‑17:00. From April open 09:00‑ 19:00. Admission free; 8/6zł for the Reptile House.

Botanical Garden

Located just below the southeast shore of Lake Rusałka, Poznań’s pretty but somewhat neglected Botanical Garden boasts a vast 22 hectares and over 7,000 varieties of plants from various climates and ecosystems. Free to visit and open year-round, the garden is a recreational and educational park owned by the Adam Mickiewicz University in Poznań, and its history dates back to 1922 when it was only a 6 hectare plot. The park includes several greenhouses (not open to the public), a large Alpinarium, a snazzy two-storey exhibition pavilion with an art gallery and cafe, several enormous standing stones that look like they took great trouble to bring here, and a lovely ballerina fountain designed by Margaret Węcławska - a graduate of the Poz Academy of Fine Arts. Worth visiting on a nice day, though note that it is quite popular on weekends. To get here, take tram no. 17 from Plac Ratajskiego to Ogrody, or consider renting a city bike - it’s a 4 km trip from the Old Town. Qul. Dąbrowskiego 165 (Ogrody), tel. (+48) 61 829 20 13, www.obuam.robia.pl. Open 09:00‑19:00. From May open 09:00‑20:00. Admission free. UL