Wilanów � � � � � � � � � � � � � �

Every winter Wilanów’s gardens are illuminated with thousands of lights. See p.11.

It's very easy to visit Warsaw and imagine its history stretches no further than WWII, when the city was effectively wiped from the map of Europe� But that would be to only understand a small part of this city’s history� The nation’s capital has been in Warsaw since the late 16th century and at one time was the centre of the vast Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth, a union which lasted over 200 years, stretching from the Baltic to the Black Sea (incorporating much of modern day Poland, Ukraine, Belarus and the Baltic States)� With so much of pre-war Warsaw destroyed there are few places to experience what this must have been like more than at Wilanow’s palace and gardens�

The ‘Polish Versailles’ is just one of the many fitting monikers applied to this splendid late 17th-century palace which can be found in the Warsaw district of Wilanów, 10km south of the centre� Essential visiting for all who come to soak up the capital’s culture and wish to understand a little more about ancient Poland, Wilanów is more than just a palace – it represents an era from which much has been lost� The palace, park and surrounding ensemble of buildings (45 hectares) represent the height of Polish Baroque and is one of Poland’s greatest national treasures� If the weather’s good and you’ve got time to spare, it’s easy to spend an entire and thoroughly rewarding day here� Wilanów Park & Gardens

The 45 hectares that make up Wilanów Park developed over the centuries according to the particular fancies of its owners� The park’s present form dates from the extensive and mostly faithful renovations made during the 1950s� Comprising a two-level Baroque garden, a NeoRenaissance rose garden, a classical English landscape park and the so-called English-Chinese landscape park, recent revitalisation works and archaeological digs discovered several artefacts, including ceramics dating from the 12th century�QP-2, ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 10/16, tel. (+48) 22 544 27 00, www.wilanow-palac.pl. Open 09:00-18:00. Admission 7/4zł, Thu free. Note that an obligatory 0zł ticket is still required on Thursdays. Really.