Old Town Walking Tour

The Old Town

The Old Town Market Square (p.36); photo © City of Warsaw.

A labyrinth of winding cobblestone streets, ornate tenement facades and picturesque plazas, it’s easy to understand why the Old Town is Warsaw’s top tourist area.

A window into the ‘once-upon-a-time’ when Warsaw was a pearl of European architecture, the Old Town was actually entirely rebuilt after WWII. In the devastating aftermath of the Warsaw Uprising (p.60), 85% of the city’s left bank lay in ruin, half of its population had perished, and the Old Town was a smouldering wasteland. To their credit the Capital Reconstruction Bureau immediately started rebuilding the historic centre using pre-war sketches, paintings and photographs. The first phase of reconstruction was completed in 1953, but works continued in the following decades, finally concluding with the opening of the Royal Castle in 1984. Although what you see today is not strictly ‘original’ per say, it’s inclusion on the UNESCO World Heritage List speaks volumes of its authenticity and the effort required to recreate it. A stunning testament of the city’s rise from the ruins of WWII and of Varsovians’ great pride in their city, if you have only one day in Warsaw, you should spend part of it here.

WALKING TOUR

IYP’s Old Town Walking Tour leads you in and around the oldest part of the city, showing you its most important and interesting points, beginning and ending near Plac Zamkowy (Castle Square) - the traditional entrance to the district. The prescribed route covers only about 1.5km. If you’re only interested in the exercise, it could take less than 30mins, but we reckon for most, an exploration of Warsaw’s Old Town will take several hours ‘if done correctly’ - that is, with a couple of short culture, food and coffee/beer breaks. Make sure you’ve got a full charge on your smartphone or camera, some comfy shoes and off you go.

a stunning testament of the city’s rise from the ruins of WWII and of Varsovians’ great pride in their city.

1 Plac Zamkowy

Most visits to the Old Town begin on Plac Zamkowy (Castle Square), the busy plaza where Warsaw’s medieval centre (to the north), meets the thoroughfare of its Royal Route (to the south), in the shadow of the Royal Castle. More of a triangle than a square, there isn’t a more popular meeting place in the city, and not a minute of the day when the Ciasna steps of King Sigismund’s Column aren’t besieged by dating couples, schoolkids and skateboarders. A lot happens here, whether it’s a steady flow of locals and tourists out for a stroll, political demonstrations or street performers plying their trade. As for the famous column, it honours the man who in 1596 moved the Polish capital from Kraków to Warsaw - King Sigismund III Vasa. 22 metres tall, it was erected in 1664 by his son, Władysław IV. Local legend asserts that Sigismund rattles his sabre Sc h i llera whenever Warsaw is in trouble, an occurrence first reported during the 1794 Kościuszko Uprising and again during WWII. With the Warsaw Uprising in full swing the column took a direct hit from a tank shell and came crashing down. Amazingly Sigismund survived, losing only his sword, and was returned to his new perch in 1949. The remains of the original column can be seen nearby beside the Royal Castle. Also note that there is a tourist information office located here at number 1/13 (open everyday 10:0016:00).QF-4, Plac Zamkowy, MRatusz Arsenał.

NEW TOWN Stara BoleśćStara Prochoffnia

Maria Skłodowska Curie Museum

Freta

MostowaSt. Hyacinth

Asia and Pacific Barbican Wodna WYB . GDAŃSKIE Bulwar Karskiego

DługaChurch of the Holy Spirit

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Kilińskiego OLD TOWN Wąski Dunaj Nowomiejska 4 Rycerska

Brzozowa Bugaj Celna P odwale Świ ętojańska

Piekarska Piwna

Krzywe Koł o Jezuicka

Museum of Pharmacy DziekaniaArchdiocese Museum Dollhouses, Games & Toys Castle Inn

World of Illusion

Museum of Literature Heritage Centre Syrenka Jesuit Church 3 St. Martin's

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7 9 5 10 11

Miodowa Kap itulna P&O

AL. "SOLIDARNOŚCI" Kapucyńska

Nowy PrzejazdDaniłowiczowska Nike Podwale

Plac Zamkowy

1 2

Royal Castle

King Sigismund's Dom Column Grodzka Literatury Nowy Zjazd Senators ka BellottoKozi a

Museum of Caricature

Krak . P rzed mi eś ci e St. Anne's

MARIENSZTAT

2 Royal Castle

Once again the pride of Warsaw, this palace was reconstructed from a pile of rubble at incredible cost between 1971 and 1984. Much of the furniture was donated by communist-era cohorts such as the GDR and USSR, and much of the money came via generous donations from exiled Poles. Dating back to the 14th century, the castle has been the residence of Polish kings, presidents and the seat of Parliament. Some of the halls are purported to be haunted by a ‘white lady,’ whose ghostly appearance portends disaster.

Those who plonk down for admission will have plenty to see, beginning with the Kings’ apartments and chambers, heavily adorned with paintings of famous Polish moments and maps from the days when the kingdom stretched from the Baltic to the Black Sea. The apartments of Prince Józef Poniatowski (aka the ‘Tin-Roofed Palace’) are also open to the public, though a separate ticket is required (20/15zł, open Wed, Sat, Sun only), and a chapel boasts an urn containing the heart of Polish hero and freedom fighter Tadeusz Kościuszko. The Houses of Parliament can also be seen, as can the opulent Great Assembly Hall. The free basement exhibition ‘From Destruction to Reconstruction’ details the castle’s resurrection after WWII rendered the place a pile of rubble, while the east-wing also contains the Gallery of Masterpieces, which has works by Rembrandt (separate ticket required, 30/20zł). Lastly, if you aren’t in the mood to explore the interiors, you must at least check out the gloriously free French Baroque Royal Gardens behind the castle (open daily until 20:00). Visiting time: 2hrs. QG-4, Pl. Zamkowy 4, tel. (+48) 22 355 51 70, www. zamek-krolewski.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission 40/30zł; kids and students with valid ID, 1zł; Wed free. U 3 Jan Kiliński Monument

This huge monument honours Jan Kiliński, a Warsaw cobbler who became the unlikely hero of the 1794 Kościuszko Uprising. Despite being wounded twice, Kiliński and his troop of peasants captured the Russian Ambassador’s Warsaw residence - an action that ultimately led to his imprisonment in St. Petersburg. Said to embody the Polish virtues of bravery and patriotism, his statue was erected in 1936 and originally located on Plac Krasińskich. In reprisal for an attack on the Copernicus Monument, Nazi troops hid Kiliński inside the vaults of the National Museum. Within days, boy scouts had daubed the museum with the graffiti ‘People of Warsaw! I am here, Jan Kiliński.’ After the war the cobbler was returned to his rightful place, before being relocated here in 1959.

Kiliński’s comrade and superior Tadeusz Kościuszko himself once lived nearby at Szeroki Dunaj 5; this wide street was formerly home to Warsaw’s fish market, while the narrow street running at a 90-degree angle, Wąski Dunaj, was the town’s Jewish Quarter during the Middle Ages.QF-4, ul. Podwale.

4 Old Town Defensive Ramparts

The first sections of Warsaw’s defensive walls date back to the late 13th century, and by the end of the 14th century they stretched 1,200 meters, enclosing an area of about 8.5ha, and included 8 towers and 4 city gates. The most famous of these now non-existent structures was the Kraków Gate on Plac Zamkowy, and the Marshall’s Tower - the highest point in the defensive structures - near the corner of ul. Krzywe Koło and ul. Brzozowa. Already in the 15th century these defenses were deemed insufficient and a second, lower line of brick walls was built along today’s ul. Podwale at a distance of just 9-14m from the previous walls; a moat was dug in-between and the Barbican was built in 1548 as the final piece of the defenses. As Varsovians were already settling in numbers beyond the city walls, these fortifications quickly became obsolete and from the 17th century they were being demolished or incorporated into tenement buildings. Ironically it was the total destruction of the Old Town that allowed these walls to be rebuilt after WWII and today the space between the two historical brick ramparts forms a pedestrian promenade parallel to ul. Podwale known as ‘Międzymurzę.’ Along this pleasant route you’ll find many historical plaques and monuments, but you won’t see much of the Old Town centre, as the view is obscured by the high inner wall.QF-4, Międzymurzę Jana Zachwatowicza.

5 The Little Insurgent Monument

The communist authorities continually thwarted efforts to commemorate the Warsaw Uprising of 1944, though by the early 1980s cracks in their resolve were beginning to show. In 1983, this most poignant of all Uprising monuments was unveiled by the walls of the Barbican. Designed by Jerzy Jarnuszkiewicz and funded by collections undertaken by scouts, the bronze installation shows the figure of a boy soldier clutching a Sten gun and weighed down by an adult-sized helmet. Commemorating the children who served as messengers and frontline troops, the figure is inspired by the story of 13-yearold corporal Antek, himself killed in action close to the scene on August 8, 1944.QF-4, ul. Podwale.

6 Warsaw Barbican

Crowning the medieval defensive walls which once protected the northern entrance to the city, this fearsome rotund structure dates from 1548, and was built by architect Giovanni Battista Venetian on the site of an earlier city gate. Despite its intended use, the Barbican was only ever used in one fighting action when in 1656, during the Swedish deluge, Polish troops attacked to retake the city. In the 18th century, the Barbican was partially demolished and incorporated into new apartment buildings. As part of the Old Town’s reconstruction after WWII, the Barbican were restored. Today it serves as a bridge between the Old and New Town, and is also the hangout of choice for teenage drinkers, buskers and ‘artists’ selling their wares. Pop inside to see a small exhibition (open 11:00-18:00, closed Mon; admission 6/4zł). QF-3/4.

Eat & Drink

Warsaw’s Old Town is full of restaurants and bars, but as this is literally the most touristy part of the city, the quality varies. When it’s time to take a break, here are a few places that are worth the money and worth seeking out.

Lubię To: Just steps north of the Barbican, this small cafe is the perfect place to stop for a coffee or something sweet, and they serve breakfast all day.Qul. Freta 8.

Ciao Napoli: Authentic Neapolitan pizza (the best in town?), fresh seafood and happy hour specials make this affordable franchise deservedly popular. More on p.85. QWąski Dunaj 4/6/8.

Gościniec Polskie Pierogi: Borderline kitsch

and touristy to be sure, but the traditional Polish food hits the mark and the portions are immense. More on p.85.Qul. Podwale 19 and ul. Piwna 14.

U Barssa: This classy restaurant brings a refreshing refinement to the Old Town and traditional Polish cuisine. Try their signature ‘duck a la Barssa.’ More on p.86.QRynek Starego Miasta 12/14.

Bar & Books: Open after 17:00, drop in this sophisticated, dimly-lit cocktail and whisky bar for an evening drink, and maybe catch some live music on weekends.Qul. Wąski Dunaj 20.

7 Old Town Square

Measuring 90 by 73 metres, the Old Town Square is Warsaw’s defining highlight, lined with richly decorated burgher houses whose design dates back to the 17th century. The facades hide a treasure trove of decorative elements - keep an eye out for our favourite, the ‘House Under the Lion,’ which features frescos by Zofia Stryjeńska (our big interwar Polish artist crush - look her up) at the southwest corner leading onto ul. Świetojańska. Today these tenements host numerous museums and cultural institutions - in fact the Museum of Warsaw occupies the entire northern side of the square - plus souvenir shops, restaurants and cafes, with ample outdoor seating in the spring and summer. At number 27 you’ll find Warsaw’s oldest and most prestigious restaurant, U Fukiera (p83).

During the 15th century the centre of the square was home to Warsaw’s Town Hall, though this was pulled down in 1817 and never replaced. Today, it’s most famous feature is Warsaw’s best-loved monument and the city’s defining symbol - Syrenka, aka the Warsaw Mermaid. Cast in 1855, this busty vixen’s form graces every bus, tram and coat of arms you’ll find in the capital.QF-4, Rynek Starego Miasta.

Old Town Museums

When it was rebuilt in the postwar years, Warsaw implemented a vision of its resurrected Old Town as a place of culture. Today it harbours a remarkable number of museums, so instead of just staggering around, gawking at the architecture - go inside and learn something. The two largest, most significant and most worth-visiting museums (in our opinion) are the Royal Castle (p.34) - where you’ll get a feel for the city’s lost grandeur, and the Museum of Warsaw, where you’ll learn its history. Depending on your interests, however, you may be interested in one of these smaller, more niche museums nearby.

Archdiocese Museum: Displaying both the sacred and profane, this surprising and underrated art museum has several creepy Beksiński paintings. More on p.62.Qul. Dziekania 1.

Museum of Dollhouses: Over 150 highly

detailed historical dollhouses, plus various other minature settings, and antiquated toys. More on p.63.Qul. Podwale 15.

Pharmacy Museum: Travel back in time to a charmingly antiquated interwar ‘apteka.’ Nominated for ‘European Museum of the Year 2022.’ More on p.64.Qul. Piwna 31/33.

World of Illusion: More attraction than museum, but a nice reward for the kids, the exhibits will fool your eyes and you’ll go home with lots of fun photos. More on p.71.QRynek Starego Miasta 21. 8 Museum of Warsaw, Main Branch

Found inside 11 conjoined historical tenements on the Old Town Square, this revamped museum’s permanent exhibit, ‘The Things of Warsaw,’ presents the city’s cultural history via 7,000 objects displayed over 21 thematic rooms. Included are portraits, postcards, souvenirs, packaging and other items with representations of the Polish capital or symbols like the Warsaw Mermaid - all of which contribute to a better understanding of the events that have shaped the Warsaw we know today. The history of the buildings themselves, which still retain many original elements, is also presented, and there’s also a bookstore, cafe and fabulous viewpoint overlooking the Old Town Square. Visiting time: 2-3hrs.QF-4, Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42, www.muzeumwarszawy. pl. Open 11:00-18:00; Thu, Sat 11:00-20:00; closed Mon. Admission 25/18zł; Thu free. U6

9 Gnojna Góra (Dung Hill)

Demonstrating how every word sounds exotic when you don’t know the language, Gnojna Góra may sound like another charming stop on your tour. And it is for the views over the Vistula River, but not for the name, which literally translates as Shit Hill (Dung Hill, if you wish to be more polite). For centuries, this was the dumping ground for all of the Old Town’s waste. As you can imagine, it grew over time and the distinctive shape can best be seen from the bottom. At one stage it was actually renowned for its healing properties - people with obscene amounts of money would come here to be buried up to their necks in rubbish in a supposed cure for syphilis (doesn’t work, we’ve tried). From here head back towards the centre via ul. Dawna, whose trademark blue archway is one of the most picturesque sights in the city, then swerve onto ul. Kanonia.QG-4, ul. Brzozowa.