POLINA OLEYNIKOVA Fashion designer womenswear
CONTENT
three objects 4-5
CONCEPT/TEXTILE
6-7
DEVELOPMENT
THE FLYING DEMON
2
8-9
TECHNICAL DRAWINGS
10-11
LOOKS
14-15
COLLECTION CONCEPT
16-17
TEXTILE/SILHOUETTES
18-19
LOOKS
20-21
TECHNICAL DRAWINGS
PIÑATEX x RICHARD MALONE 24-25
RESEARCH/CONCEPT
26-27
DESIGN DEVELOPMENT
28-29
LOOKS
30-31
TECHNICAL DRAWINGS
3
COLLECTION CONCEPT
The inspiration for this collection were three objects: ancient vase made by my ancestor; doilies made by his wife and an icon made by their daughter. These objects inspired me with their meanings, silhouettes and textures. I wanted to convey the feelings that these stories evoke in me. The feelings of nativity, the uniqueness of each object, the natural beauty.
4
textile
I paid special attention to the fabrics. All materials are natural (linen, wool and cotton). Part of the collection consists of recycled tablecloths and lace, another is handmade by myself in wet felting technique. Each piece is special and made with an emphasis on quality and expression.
5
development
6
development
7
TECHNICAL DRAWINGS
8
TECHNICAL DRAWINGS
9
LOOKS
10
LOOKS
11
The flying demon COLLECTION
FALL 2020
COLLECTION CONCEPT
This collection was inspired by the work of M. A. Vrubel, his majolica and paintings. Vrubel’s fame began with his illustrations of Lermontov’s poem “The Demon,” which later became the main theme in his work.
14
COLLECTION CONCEPT
Vrubel’s paintings are deep and tragic, and I wanted to convey this drama. The color and semantic contrasts convey the duality of the Demon and find balance in the final image.
15
TEXTILE
The textures and colours of the fabrics also find their origins in the artist’s paintings. “Demon defeated” is the main print of the collection, creating a vivid contrast of colours. I hand-painted fabric of one part of the garments and used natural dyeing for the other part with materials working for larger productions (tea/ onion skins/turmeric).
16
SILHOUETTES
In the process of creating silhouettes, I used draping techniques on a mannequin for voluminous and expressive looks; tailoring techniques to create more graceful and austere accents of the collection.
17
LOOKS
18
“ДЕМОН ЛЕТЯЩИЙ”
19
TECHNICAL DRAWINGS
20
TECHNICAL DRAWINGS
21
PIÑATEX X richard malone
COMPETITION
The fashion industry is widely known for its polluting impact on the earth. For this competition brief I valued the opportunity to investigate and consider brands who create fabrics which minimize the environmental impact of their production. I believe that such companies are able to change our future of fashion. For this collection I have considered using fabrics that have found a way to keep the harmony with nature and develop innovative methods to control the ecological influence. The quality of the fabrics can not be substituted for sustainability, it is equally as important that the textiles feel and look beautiful. the fabrics I have chosen including Piñatex pineapple leather are often even more desirable than the fabrics were produced with no concern about being sustainable when used in an interesting way which is what I am trying to achieve.
reconstitutes pineapple leaf fibre into leather alternative. Discarded waste has been developed into a non-woven material. The process does not require surplus land, water or fertilisers.
24
This collection is inspired by the idea of strong woman. Loving, fearless, delicate, powerful woman, like my grandmother. Everything she got was gained by her passion for life and hard work. I believe that Piñatex can help to create strong look in this collection using such techniques as weaving and embossment as pattern. The embossment is inspired by fine wood carving, giving very comforting feelings. Supporting fabrics will come from sustainable suppliers who develop zerowaste and recycling processes in their fabric production industry such as Cocccoon silks, Bysshe Partnership and Simplifi Fabrics.
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26
27
28
29
30
31