The Mountain Times • May 10-16, 2017 • 29
Mounta in Times Volume 46, Number 19
I’m FREE - Pick me up and be prepared. Paper beats rock.
May 10-16, 2017
Grow more edibles
The “keyhole” gardening structure works with compost and debris to help your garden grow By Melinda Myers
Raise your gardening efforts to a new level with keyhole gardening. You’ll increase your garden’s productivity in a smaller space while using less water and fertilizer. This intensive technique was first used in Africa, where it’s hot and dry and the topsoil is shallow. Now gardeners growing in a variety of climates around the world are using this technique. You’ll even find keyhole gardens in urban and suburban backyards. Keyhole gardening grows abundant produce while composting plant-based kitchen scraps in one raised garden plot. Grow plants in the outer ring of a circular, six-foot diameter or larger raised bed. Create an inner circle for composting kitchen scraps, coffee grounds and garden debris. Design a small, pie-shaped notch in the circular bed. This provides easy access to the inner composting circle and gives the bed its distinct keyhole appearance.
INCLUDE HERBICIDEFREE GRASS CLIPPINGS, MANURE, KITCHEN SCRAPS, FRESH PLANT DEBRIS AND OTHER NITROGEN RICH MATERIALS FOR YOUR GREENS. Build the sides of your raised bed from stones, cement blocks, bamboo or any available materials that can withstand the rigors of your climate. Select a height that works for you and makes planting, tending and harvesting easy. It may be easiest to purchase a keyhole garden kit. Select a kit with all the basic building supplies made from long-lasting materials. Once the walls are built, create an inner compost basket. Use chicken wire or a similar material that allows moisture and nutrients to move from the compost basket into the surrounding soil. It should be at least 12 inches in diameter with the bottom anchored to the ground and top extending above the soil surface. Fill the bottom of your raised bed Courtesy of Gardner’s Supply Company with compostable materials. Start with The keyhole gardening technique allows gardeners to grow produce and compost plant-based kitchen scraps in one raised garden. a layer of cardboard on the soil surface. Then alternate 4” to 6” layers of brown and green materials just as you would when building a compost pile. Use twigs, straw, dried leaves, paper, cardboard and other carbon rich materials for your browns. Include herbicide-free grass clippings, manure, kitchen scraps, fresh plant debris and other nitrogen rich materials for your greens. Add kitchen scraps and garden debris Grow more edibles............................................................ 29 How to plant trees correctly................................................. 35 to the compost basket throughout the growing season. As these decompose, Vt’s greenest buildings awarded....................................... 30 Understanding hardiness zones......................................... 36 water helps move nutrients from the Tinmouth plant sale.......................................................... 30 Quartz vs. granite countertops............................................ 38 compost basket to the surrounding soil. Seed libraries..................................................................... 32 Keep animals out of your garden........................................ 39 Continue layering until three fourths Landscape drainage problems........................................ 33 Tips for novice composters................................................. 39 of the raised bed is filled. Top it off with Creating a safe, enjoyable backyard................................. 33 Real estate............................................................................. 40 compost-rich soil for plants to root and Spring has sprung. . ............................................................ 34 Did you know—aeration?.................................................... 43 grow in. Slope the surface so the highest
home & garden
Edible gardens, page 42
30 • The Mountain Times • May 10-16, 2017
HOME & GARDEN
Vt’s greenest buildings awarded at gala The Vermont Green Building Network (VGBN) recognized the most energy efficient buildings in Vermont at the Vermont Green Building Gala, held at Main Street Landing on March 30, 2017. VGBN’s Vermont’s Greenest Building Awards are a statewide competition that honors residential and commercial buildings that meet the highest standard of demonstrated building energy performance. Greenest residential building The 2016 Vermont’s Greenest Residential Building was awarded to the Dinnan/ Webster Residence designed and built by Fiddlehead Construction. This new singlefamily residence on the south slope of Mt. Philo in Charlotte reused a previously developed lot. The home was designed to be net-zero energy ready (this means it can meet all of its annual energy needs with renewable energy). This inspiring home won with a proven annual energy intensity of eight kBtu/sf/yr. This home consumes only 16 percent of the average consumption of a New England home (50 kBtu/sf/yr). Fiddlehead Construction used natural, durable materials for the home to increase longevity including salvaged sinks, boneyard slate and local maple counters. The home is an all electric home with a supplemental woodstove for heat and ambiance. Greenest commercial building The 2016 Vermont’s Greenest Commercial Building was awarded to Hartford Town Hall designed and built by Bread Loaf Corporation. The Hartford Town Hall, originally built as a school in 1895, was converted to town office in 1956. After years of deferred maintenance and minor remodeling efforts, the Town selected Bread Loaf
Submitted
Corporation to provide design and construction services for complete renovation of the existing facility. This net-zero ready building is consuming only 24 percent of the energy used by the average commercial building in New England (86 kBtu/sf/yr). The Hartford Town Hall is using only 21 kBtu/sf/yr. Other award winners The 2016 Vermont’s Greener Residential Building award was presented to Mills 21st Century Farmhouse designed by Albert, Righter & Tittmann (ART) Architects from Boston, Mass. This super insulated, passive solar Greek revival farmhouse won with a proven annual energy intensity of 13.76
kBtu/sf/yr. This home consumes only 27 percent of the average consumption of a New England home (50 kBtu/sf/yr). Coupled with a 5.8 kW array from SunCommon, this south facing home is close to net zero. The 2016 Vermont’s Going Green Residential Building was awarded to Pleasants Home designed and built by VERMOD. This high performance modular home uses about 44 percent of the average consumption of a New England home (50 kBtu/sf/ yr). All construction for this project occurred under factory-controlled conditions and included great attention to air sealing details. A six kW PV array complement the high performance envelope to bring the Green building award, page 42
Tinmouth Plant Sale has much to offer in “buy local” gardening Saturday, May 13, 8 a.m.—TINMOUTH—8:0010:00am. The 33rd annual Tinmouth Plant Sale returns Saturday, May 13, 8-10 a.m. The sale will take place next to the Tinmouth Fire Department on Mountain View Road in the center of Tinmouth. Viewing will be from 7:30-7:55 a.m., but no sales will be made before the big rush with the prompt 8 a.m. “Go!” Come early for the best selection. Stop by to purchase locally grown and dug perennials and shrubs from Tinmouth gardens. Local master gardeners will be on hand to answer gardening questions. This sale supports the Tinmouth Scholarship Fund for continuing education of Tinmouth students. There will also be a bake sale and other fun ways to support the elementary school. For more information call 802-446-3207 or visit tinmouthvt.org.
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The Mountain Times • May 10-16, 2017 • 31
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32 • The Mountain Times • May 10-16, 2017
HOME & GARDEN
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Molly Kennedy holds a jar of donated flint corn. Seed envelopes are filed in alphabetical order in an old wooden card-catalogue case.
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Carefully labled seeds and a pamphlet about Killington’s seed library are on display at the Sherburne Memorial Library in Killington.
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BRANDON—The Brandon Free Library experienced gardeners or members who have taken the seed saving workshop she is entering its fourth season of collecting and lending seeds to patrons who want to offers. Beginners are advised to start with lettuce, tomatoes, beans or pea plants. get their fingers into the soil and contribAn important aspect of seed saving is ute to food sustainability at the same time. preserving the “lineage” of seeds. “Every Librarian Molly Kennedy told the jar [of seed] has a story,” Kennedy said. Mountain Times she got the idea from Some donors bring in seed from their public radio several years ago and implegrandparents’ generation. Kennedy hermented the program in March, 2013. Kennedy said, “I’ve been a seed saver for self still grows her grandfather’s cranberry years,” saving seed at beans. She held up a “EVERY JAR [OF harvest time, but the jar containing multiseed library has turned colored corn kernels: SEEDS] HAS A STORY,” into “more than just a the Vermont heritage KENNEDY SAID. hobby” for her and the “flint corn.” Flint corn library patrons. earned its moniker because a few plants She started out by consulting with a managed to survive the disastrous “year local farmer to decide how to present the without a summer” of 1816. That year program. She also consulted Emily MilMount Tambora, a volcano in the Dutch lard at the Middlebury Food Co-op, who East Indies, blew, sending a cloud of ash had attended a seed school in Arizona around the world and creating a “volcanic begun by Bill McDorman. winter.” In New England lakes and rivers The program is simple. Patrons fill out a iced over, there were hard frosts every membership form that asks for their garmonth and snow fell in June, resulting dening experience and their willingness in crop failure and the abandonment of to volunteer with sorting seed donations, many farms. Vermonters called it “1800 packaging seed for lending, and menand froze to death.” toring. The seed library currently has 50 Kennedy said that people who start members and new members are already seed libraries find that seed adapts to local signing up for this season, Kennedy said. environments. Seed savers capture seed Members “check out” presorted and from the plants that do the best, meaning labeled envelopes containing seed of their they can also select for certain traits such choice, plant their gardens or containers, as earlier ripening or hardiness. and save as much seed as they want, after Johnny Appleseed comes to mind, harvest. “Returning” seed to the library is seed-saver par excellence. Apprenticing optional. as an orchardist, he started apple tree The method of saving seed varies nurseries from seed throughout the upper depending on the variety of plant, and the Midwest and sold the trees at a reasonresults can be unpredictable. Seed that able price so settlers could get their start. is saved improperly can spoil. That’s why The seed he gathered was for the “spitter,” Kennedy only accepts seed gathered by an apple so bitter people spat it out, but it Seed library, page 43
The Mountain Times • May 10-16, 2017 • 33
Remedy landscape drainage problems Homeowners understand that reaping the rewards of beautiful lawns and gardens requires hard work. But sometimes even hard work won’t be enough to prevent problems in a lawn or garden. Drought can be very harmful to lawns and gardens, but so, too, can excessive amounts of water and precipitation. Soggy properties can make it difficult for lawns and gardens to thrive. According to Lowes, in addition to killing lawn and other plants, standing water on a property can be a health hazard. That’s because standing water makes a prime breeding ground for mosquito larvae and other pests. While homeowners cannot control precipitation, they can affect the impact that rainwater has on their properties.
IN ADDITION TO KILLING LAWN AND OTHER PLANTS, STANDING WATER ON A PROPERTY CAN BE A HEALTH HAZARD... [IT] MAKES A PRIME BREEDING GROUND FOR MOSQUITO LARVAE AND OTHER PESTS. Replace/repair downspouts Gutters and downspouts are designed to move rainwater away from the home. Too often, however, gutters and downspouts become clogged or do not work effectively. Overflowing gutters will transfer rainwater down the side of a home, where it can puddle at the foundation. This water can ultimately suffocate a lawn, and it may cause interior damage to the home as well. First, inspect and clean all gutters. Leaves, nests, sticks, and even dead animals can block the flow of water in a gutter. Test downspouts by running hose water from the top of the gutter. Downspouts should be pointed away from the home and may need to be extended so they direct water away from the dwelling. Plant water-loving trees or shrubs In some instances, whether it’s a byproduct of poor property grade or sloping land, water can pool regardless of how well the gutter system is working. Determine where the problem is and speak with a landscaper to see if there are any plants that thrive in moist conditions. The roots of these plants can protect against soil erosion and may absorb enough water to guard against puddling. In addition, amending the soil with organic matter, pea gravel or another coarse aggregate can prevent water pooling. Consider a drainage system When confronted with drainage issues that cannot be remedied by other methods, homeowners may need to install drainage systems. Such systems often employ French drains that are built through or around the perimeter of a property. French drains are typically a trench that contains perforated plastic pipe and is backfilled with gravel. Water runs into these channels and gets swept away by the piping. Do-it-yourselfers may want to try installing drainage systems themselves. However, because excavation is necessary, it’s often best to have the property inspected and marked for utilities, then have the drainage system installed by professionals. Landscaping does not need to be derailed by drainage issues. Explore the remedies that can easily fix the problems.
Submitted
Homeowners who must wear rain boots to traverse their lawns could benefit from a drainage overhaul.
Creating a safe and enjoyable backyard Homeowners often aspire to have attractive backyards that look like they belong in a magazine. While these can be picturesque and functional for adults, they may not be entirely practical for homeowners who have young children, especially when the majority of the yard is covered with paving stones or concrete. When young children are part of a household, homeowners may benefit by designing yards that are both functional and fun. Incorporating safe play areas for kids is one way to unlock the potential of both big and small yards. As children run off to enjoy a playground, safety is the last thing on their minds. Kids are most interested in scaling ladders to treehouses or coasting down slides. That’s why adults must take it upon themselves to keep injury prevention in mind. SafestPlayground.com indicates that playgroundrelated injuries routinely result in severe fractures, internal injuries, concussions, and dislocations. In the majority of playground injuries to children younger than age 5, the head and face are affected. Children age 5-9 experience more leg and arm injuries than younger kids. The Consumer Product Safety Commission states 70 percent of children’s injuries occur on home playgrounds. More than 28,000 children are injured each year on playgrounds across Canada, according to Parachute, a national injury prevention organization. When considering playground equipment for the yard, parents need to make safety a priority. The Canada Safety Society advises parents to follow the “5 S’s of Playground Safety:” Surface, structures, site, supervision, and safety. • Surface: Parents should assume that children will fall. To lessen the blow of falls, choose playground equipment with a perimeter of six feet of a softer surface. • Structure: The structure of the play equipment should be built from sturdy materials. Pressure-treated lumber was once the standard, but it’s not advisable for kids’ playgrounds, as the chemicals used in the lumber can leach. Use cedar or another wood that resists decay. • Site: Look around the landscape for an ideal place to locate the playset. There should be no obstacles that children can hit. • Supervision and Safety: Do not leave children alone while playing. Make sure all posts are anchored into the ground securely.
Submitted
Backyard playgrounds should be built with safety in mind. Learn the rules of play equipment and yard safety.
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34 • The Mountain Times • May 10-16, 2017
HOME & GARDEN
Spring has sprung It’s time to garden!
By Mary Ellen Shaw
It’s time to enjoy the marvelous color palette that flowers offer as well as their wonderful aroma. At this time of year the majority of flowers we are currently seeing are produced from bulbs that were planted last fall. The most popular choices by far are daffodils and tulips. The reason for planting them in autumn is because they need a “chill period” in order to bloom in the spring. As tempting as it might be to cut them back, these plants need to die off naturally so that they can absorb moisture, sunlight and nutrients for the bulb. Doing this allows them to greet you again next spring. So how can you hide the unattractive stalks once blooming is over? Planting other flowers in the area of your bulbs will take care of that. My tulips and daffodils are in a perennial garden. This garden began when a neighbor, EleaBy Mary Ellen Shaw nor DiSabito, introduced me to what I Pink Impatiens hang in a basket with Hosta blanketing the ground underneath. call the “basics” in my garden: yarrow, coreopsis and daisies. When they are in bloom the bulb stalks are hidden. coneflower (which oddly enough is that list the height of the plant. That Yarrow comes in multiple colors. My pink in color) and black eyed Susan. If way you can place the taller ones in the garden has both yellow and pink. When you don’t mind leaving these flowers back of your garden. it comes to coreopsis you will find that in your garden all winter, the birds will All of the plants mentioned above are easy to find at your local garden the varieties which are yellow in color thank you as they enjoy their seeds. center and can tolerate the cold winter work best in our climate. They range in Another option is to tie up the flower height from 9” to 18” and their flower stalks and hang them upside down on a temperatures of the Rutland area. In an unprotected area a Zone 3 perennial size can also vary. If you cut off the dead fence or trellis. I do that and have seen is a safe choice. If the area has some blossoms new flowers will soon follow. birds happily picking out the seeds in protection Zone 4 will work. Every garden can use a white flower to the winter. Another factor to consider is sun highlight the other colors. Shasta daiArrangement versus shade. All of the perennials sies work well with their yellow centers. If you are new to gardening you mentioned, thus far, need to spend the Since all of these flowers blooms bemight wonder the best way to lay out majority of the day in the sun. So what tween June and early September your the plants. Bulbs should be planted by garden will be flourishing. Dark color putting five or seven in a circle. This will do you choose for a shady area? One of flowers mingled in with the bright ones achieve a much more natural look than my early season favorites is lungwort. You will notice different colored flowers makes for a nice contrast. Purple salvia having them in a straight row. on the same plant. Bleeding heart and is a good choice. The same applies to setting out peA perennial garden also needs some rennial plants. Staggering them in small columbine will soon follow and astilbe will round out the season. Of course, plants that bloom later in the summer. groups is more pleasing to the eye. Also there is the ever-faithful hosta plants Two easy to grow choices are the purple pay close attention to the plant tags whose leaves, to me, are prettier than the flower. Choose a variety with cream colored margins in the leaves and they
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will brighten up a shady area. It’s almost impossible to not have some gaps in bloom times. To solve that problem simply place some annuals among your perennials. I always add pink or red geraniums, multi-color zinnias, blue ageratum and some marigolds. For the shady areas, impatiens fills in nicely. By the time fall rolls around perennials have “called it a season” and annuals are getting tired, too. Thank goodness the mum plants now arrive at the garden centers and color abounds once more! They are tolerant of the chill of autumn as long as they are covered at night. Mums can also be left in the garden throughout the winter under a mound of leaves. By late April you will see their green “shoots” popping through. If you cut the new growth back to about 3” around the 4th of July, you will have a nice full mum—home grown by you—in the fall. Container gardens If you don’t have a garden area, not to worry! Container gardening in urns and boxes will provide color wherever you need it and they can be changed throughout the season. My window box starts off with pansies, transitions to impatiens for the summer months and ends with mums. If you want to move your flowers to various locations you can purchase containers on wheels. How handy is that? Once you have placed your flower selections in the container, adding a vine that trails over the rim and down the container will offer a softening effect. You can even grow flowers vertically in containers. Placing a trellis inside will allow a morning glory vine to climb and give you some height and privacy. This is ideal for a patio or deck area. It’s time to get outside and “play in the dirt.” Not only is gardening fun but it is also a great stress reliever. Who couldn’t use some of that in their life? Happy gardening!
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The Mountain Times • May 10-16, 2017 • 35
HOME & GARDEN
How to plant trees correctly By Dr. Leonard Perry, Horticulture Professor Emeritus University of Vermont
Yes, there are right and wrong ways to plant a tree. By following correct planting practices, you can ensure trees will avoid a slow decline and possible death from several causes. This is especially important for trees, which can be a large, long-lasting, and worthwhile landscape investment. Choose the right tree for the right site, not just a tree you like. This means that it will be cold hardy in your area. It also means that it will be adaptable to your soils and site. A sugar maple near pavement and buildings may dry out with leaves turning brown, or show salt injury if near roads. A pine tree will grow poorly on a heavy clay soil. Consider trees for their function. Perhaps it is just the beauty of a spring crabapple in bloom, and the fall fruits it produces for birds. Native trees provide the thousands of insects that birds feed upon. Picking fresh fruits from your trees provides incredible taste and nutrition, plus saves money over buying them. Of course trees can be used for windbreaks and summer shade. Choose a healthy tree. This is one that has a good amount of roots in proportion to the tops. Beware of trees that have been recently dug from the wild with little or no preparation prior to digging. Often you get what you pay for. Obviously check for signs of leaf injury from pests or diseases, or trunk damage from mishandling. Local nurs-
eries with trained professionals are your best bet usually for buying healthy and appropriate trees. Beware of trees sold in many large national chain stores. These usually have been grown in distant areas, and may not be acclimated to our area. I have found ones at such stores with few roots, the pots containing stones to hold the plants upright. If in doubt, gently pull the plant out of the pot and look at the roots. If non-existent, too few roots, too small pot and root size for the plant top, or the plant is pot-bound, keep looking. Particularly early in the season, before trees are leafedout or in bloom, it is hard to tell if they are labelled properly. One time I saw a tree labelled as a crabapple at a chain store, only to see a few weeks later when leaves were out that it instead was a non-hardy peach tree! If you get home with a balled and burlapped tree and, once unwrapped, see girdling roots, either take the tree back or talk with your source. Girdling roots are those that are growing around the base of the trunk and, as they grow, basically end up strangling the tree over time. They are a sign of poor culture in the nursery. When digging the planting hole, measure the width of the root mass (root ball) and remove sod in an area three to five times the diameter of the root ball. Loosen this soil to a depth of about a foot, such as with a spading fork. Then dig
a hole in the center of this area about a foot wider than the root ball. If planting a potted tree, of course remove the pot. If a fiber pot, you can cut it off with pruners or a knife. If planting a balled and burlapped tree, remove any strings holding the burlap, once the plant is in the hole. Remove any wire with wire cutters. Even though burlap will decompose over time, it won’t if it’s treated. Best is to remove any burlap, again once the plant is in the hole, cutting it off. If the soil on the outside of the rootball is compacted or roots are crowded, tease them loose with pruners or similar hand tool such as a planting knife. Cut away any roots circling the surface around the trunk. Planting depth is one of most important factors in planting. Planting a tree too deep can kill it. Figure the depth to plant by pulling any soil away from the trunk. What you are looking for is the root collar or root flare — the bulge just above the root system where the roots begin to branch away from the trunk. This root flare should be just above the soil surface, the base of the root flare at the soil surface. This often may not be the top of the root ball, hence the need to make sure. Measure from the base of the root ball to the base of the root flare. This is the depth to plant. Don’t dig the hole deeper, as some instructions in the past or older books Plant trees, page 42
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HOME & GARDEN
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Gardening benefits the environment in myriad ways. Maintaining natural landscapes and preserving green spaces can reduce the collective carbon footprint of the human race. Trees, flowers and other greenery filter the air and create welcoming habitats for all species of animals and insects. Many home gardeners set out each spring to create landscapes that cater to all of the senses. But choosing plants that are unlikely to thrive in certain climates can lead to dissatisfaction and premature plant demise and may require gardeners to use more fertilizers, pesticides and other not-so-Earth-friendly techniques to help plants thrive. One of the more important steps gardeners can take before spring arrives is to educate themselves about plant hardiness zones. Hardiness zones are defined by the average climatic conditions of the region and are broken down into various zones. The USDA Hardiness Zone map divides North America into 13 separate zones. Each zone is marked by 10 F incremental differences from the last zone. In some versions of the map, each zone is further divided into “a” and “b” regions. The National Gardening Association says the USDA Hardiness Zone Map was revised in 2012. The latest version was jointly developed by the USDA’s Agricultural Research Service and Oregon State University’s PRISM Climate Group. To help develop the new map, the USDA and Oregon State University requested that horticultural and climatic experts review the zones in their geographic areas. As a result, the zone boundaries in the 2012 edition of the map have shifted in many areas. Canada’s
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TownlineEquipment.com *$00% down, A.P.R. for up to 60 months on purchases of new Kubota SSVL39/L45/L47), Series equipment available to qualified *20% down, A.P.R.0% financing for financing up to 84 months on purchases new Kubota BX, B (excluding B26), L (excluding MX, M-SU,isM6060/M7060, *20% down, 0% A.P.R. financing forto qualified upofinventory to 84 months purchases of new BX, B (excluding M5 (excluding M5N/L), MH (M7) Series equipment is available purchasers from on participating dealers’ in-stock inventory through 5/31/2017. Example: An purchasers from participating dealers’ in-stock through 3/31/2017. Example: AKubota 60-month monthly installment 84-month monthly installment repayment term at 0% A.P.R. requires 84 payments of $11.90 per $1,000 financed. 0% A.P.R. interest is available to customers no B26), L (excluding L39/L45/L47), MX, M-SU, M6060/M7060,M5 (excluding M5N/L), MH (M7) Series repayment term at 0% A.P.R. requires 60 payments of $16.67 per $1,000 financed. 0% A.P.R. interest is available toif customers dealer documentation preparation fee is charged. Dealer charge for document preparation fee shall be in accordance with state laws. Inclusion of ineligible equipment if equipment no documentation preparation is charged. Dealer charge for document preparation fee shall be through inthrough accordance is available toand qualified purchasers from participating dealers’ in-stock inventory may result in a dealer higher blended A.P.R. 0% A.P.R. low-ratefee financing may not be available with customer instant rebate offers. Financing is available Kubota with Credit Corporation, U.S.A., 1000 Kubota Drive, TX 76051; to credit approval. Some exceptions apply. Offer 5/31/2017. See us84 for details state laws. Inclusion of ineligible equipment maysubject result in a higher blended A.P.R. 0%at A.P.R. and low-rate financing may on not be 5/31/2017. Example: An Grapevine, 84-month monthly installment repayment term 0%expires A.P.R. requires these andavailable other low-rate or go toinstant www.kubota.com for moreFinancing information. is **Only terms and conditions of Kubota’s standard Limited Warranty apply. For warranty withoptions customer rebate offers. available through Kubota Credit Corporation, U.S.A., 3401 Del Amo terms, seepayments Kubota’s Limited at www.kubota.com or authorized Kubota dealers. Optional equipment may be shown. © Kubota Tractor ofWarranty $11.90 per $1,000 financed. 0% A.P.R. interest is available to customers if Corporation, no dealer2017. Blvd., Torrance, CA 90503; subject to credit approval. Some exceptions apply. Offer expires 3/31/2017. See us for details on documentation preparation feegoistocharged. Dealer for charge for document preparation feemay shall be in these and other low-rate options or www.kubota.com more information. Optional equipment be shown.
Courtesy of the USDA
*$0 down, 0% A.P.R. for up to 60 and monthsthe on purchases of new Kubota SSV to qualified warmest zones in dark orange atfinancing the bottom coldest zones in Series lightequipment pinkisatavailable the top. purchasers from participating dealers’ in-stock inventory through 3/31/2017. Example: A 60-month monthly installment
zones before planting
repayment term at 0% A.P.R. requires 60 payments of $16.67 per $1,000 financed. 0% A.P.R. interest is available to customers if no dealer documentation preparation fee is charged. Dealer charge for document preparation fee shall be in accordance with state laws. Inclusion of ineligible equipment may result in a higher blended A.P.R. 0% A.P.R. and low-rate financing may not be available with customer instant rebate offers. Financing is available through Kubota Credit Corporation, U.S.A., 3401 Del Amo Blvd., Torrance, CA 90503; subject to credit approval. Some exceptions apply. Offer expires 3/31/2017. See us for details on thesemap, and otherupdated low-rate optionsin or 2010, go to www.kubota.com for more information.zones. Optional equipment may be shown. Hardiness Zone uses nine different
Zone maps are tools that show where permanent landscape plants can adapt. Home gardeners who are looking for shrubs or perennials to last year after year should recognize that such plants must tolerate year-round conditions, including the lowest and highest temperatures and the amount of precipitation. Snow cover and humidity also can impact a plant’s propensity to thrive. While zone maps are not perfect, they can be useful in planning and ensuring the survival of future gardens. Plant and seed manufacturer Burpee says that other factors to consider that also affect the viability of plants include wind, moisture and soil conditions. The company offers an interactive zone finder on their website that will indicate the hardiness zone as well as average first and last frost dates. Visit burpee. com/findgrowzone to enter a zip code. Learn more about plant hardiness at planthardiness.ars.usda.gov/PHZMWeb. In Canada, visit the site planthardiness.gc.ca/?m=1.
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© Kubota Tractor Corporation, 2017
accordance with state laws. Inclusion of ineligible equipment may result in a higher blended A.P.R. 0% A.P.R. and low-rate financing may not be available with customer instant rebate offers. Financing is available through Kubota Credit Corporation, U.S.A., 1000 Kubota Drive, Grapevine, TX 76051; subject to credit approval. Some exceptions apply. Offer expires 5/31/2017. See us for details on these and other low-rate options or go to www.kubota.com for more information. **Only terms and conditions of Kubota’s standard Limited Warranty apply. For warranty terms, see Kubota’s Limited Warranty at www.kubota.com or authorized Kubota dealers. Optional equipment may be shown. © Kubota Tractor Corporation, 2017.
38 • The Mountain Times • May 10-16, 2017
HOME & GARDEN
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Courtesy of Cabinetry Concepts
Quartz countertops make for a great option in the kitchen, as they are non-porous, which works well for food preparation.
Exploring quartz vs. granite countertops: pros and cons By Ro Wyman, Cabinetry Concepts
Vision
ion is Your vis ion our miss
When renovating a kitchen or bath, one is faced with so many choices; aesthetic, financial, and practical considerations go into every detail. When it comes to countertops, customers looking for the highest quality and best value material often choose between granite and quartz. Both provide a gorgeous look and sturdy surface, but which is the better choice? Some benefits to quartz include easier installation, as it is a more flexible stone than granite while remaining equally strong, along with the ability to hide seams more easily. Quartz countertops are also non-porous, so unlike granite they do not need to be periodically sealed, and they make a great food preparation surface since there is no risk of bacteria absorption. When it comes to repair, however, granite is a bit easier for do-it-yourselfers with color-matching epoxy from most any hardware store, while quartz
is a bit trickier and best done by a professional. While quartz countertops are predictable and uniform in appearance, unlike granite, it is helpful to note that quartz surfaces may discolor if exposed to direct sunlight regularly. Pricing varies with both granite and quartz products (engineered stone). Granite pricing varies based on source, porosity and availability of materials. Engineered stone’s price variability is driven by the manufacturer and complexity of producing colors and patterns. So if you’re looking to update your kitchen, quartz countertops are definitely worth considering. Cambria, a family-owned, American quartz surface manufacturer, is an excellent place to start your search for the perfect look. They are the only engineered stone priced the same for all patterns, and their website has helpful information about their many options.
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• Rot & Split Resistant • Insect Proof
The Mountain Times • May 10-16, 2017 • 39
HOME & GARDEN
How to keep animals out of your garden Many gardeners understand the frustration that stems from seeing a garden destroyed by wildlife. While protecting wildlife is a cause that’s near and dear to many gardening enthusiasts, even the most ardent wildlife supporter does not want to see his or her garden trampled, eaten or adversely affected by animals. Safeguarding gardens from local wildlife can require some trial and error. Animals may find ways to circumvent gardeners’ initial efforts to protect their gardens, but the following methods might just do the trick. • Erect physical barriers around gardens. Barriers may not be gardeners’ first choices, as some people feel barriers such as wire cages or mesh coverings make it more difficult to tend to gardens and rob gardens of some of their aesthetic appeal. But coverings and wire cages can effectively prevent wildlife from trampling or eating plants while still allowing the gardens to get adequate sunlight. • Fight intruders with odor. Stray cats may mistake gardens for litter boxes and enter them to relieve themselves. Preventing such intrusions can be as simple as placing items around the garden to reduce the likelihood that gardens will be mistaken for litter boxes. Peels from oranges and lemons or coffee grounds can be placed in the garden and can emit odors strong enough to deter cats. • Install motion detecting lights around gardens. Motion detection technology might be enough to deter nocturnal wildlife from trampling or eating gardens. Animals might be spooked and run away when lights suddenly turn on. A similar approach can be taken using noise instead of lights. Much like light, noise can be enough to deter animals. • Consider raised garden beds. When small critters, such as moles, are the main problem, then raised garden beds with wood or plastic bottoms and sides can be enough to safeguard gardens. Raised garden beds might not be accessible to small critters, though such beds likely won’t deter larger animals from getting into gardens that are not barricaded. • Erect fencing around the yard. Though fencing is expensive, fencing in a backyard or side yard where gardens are located can deter wildlife big and small from trampling or eating gardens.
EPA offers tips for novice composters
The United States Environmental Protection Agency notes that food scraps and yard waste account for between 20 and 30 percent of what we throw away. But thanks to composting, such waste can be put to work rather than discarded. Compost is organic material that helps plants grow when added to soil. Benefitting the planet in myriad ways, compost enriches the soil by helping it retain moisture. The EPA notes that composting also reduces the need for chemical fertilizers while also suppressing plant diseases and pests. In addition, when homeowners compost, they inadvertently reduce methane emissions from landfills, thereby lowering their carbon footprints. Homeowners who do not know how to compost can consider the following tips as they start compost piles on their properties. • Choose an accessible spot on your property. When looking for a spot on your property for your compost bin, choose a location that’s easily accessible. The less accessible the bin is, the less likely you are to stick with composting over the long-term.
The EPA also recommends placing a compost bin or pile in a dry, shady spot near a water source. • Add the appropriate materials. Animal waste, cooked foods, diseased plants, and fresh weeds from perennial plants should not be added to a compost pile. The EPA recommends moistening dry materials as they’re added and adding brown and green materials as they are collected. Examples of green waste include grass clippings, weeds from annual plants and plant trimmings. Brown materials include dead leaves and shredded cardboard. Chop or shred large pieces before adding them to the pile. • Give the pile structure. Layering materials can give compost piles better structure. The EPA suggests burying fruit and vegetable waste under 10 inches of compost material, including brown and green waste. • Turn and aerate the pile. Using a garden fork, periodically turn the compost pile. This aerates the heap and provides oxygen that can accelerate the decomposition of the pile. Piles that are not periodically turned and aerated
Submitted
Composting is a great way to turn food scraps into rich organic material that can help gardens grow. may grow malodorous, which can be unpleasant for homeowners who hope to add materials to their piles on a regular basis. In addition, without the heat produced by aeration, composting piles will break down very slowly. • Recognize when the material is ready. The EPA
notes that compost is ready to use when materials at the bottom of a pile are dark and rich in color. According to the EPA, this can take anywhere from two months to two years, so composters must be patient. More information about composting can be found at epa.gov.
THANK YOU RUTLAND COUNTY SOLID WASTE
IN 2016:
9,810
2,161
pounds of batteries
gallons of flammables
1,947
1,066
49,821 gallons of paints, stains & pesticides
37,000
propane tanks
tons of trash processed at Gleason Road
appliances
8,682 lightbulbs with & without ballast
2,000 35,000 gallons of oil
For more information residents can contact
Jim O’Gorman at 770-1333.
Or check our website at www.rcswd.com
tons of recycling
40 • The Mountain Times • May 10-16, 2017
real estate
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Wonderful, well maintained & Spacious 2 Br 2 Ba Telemark Village Townhouse, cathedral ceiling, brick fireplace, deck, tiled entry mudroom, master bedroom, master bath, whirlpool tub, sauna, loft area, skylights, finished walkout lower level, large family room, additional sleeping, wood burning stove. Close to both Killington & Pico ski areas. $239,000
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The Mountain Times • May 10-16, 2017 • 41
42 • The Mountain Times • May 10-16, 2017
SERVICE DIRECTORY
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Planting trees:
Soil, water, sun and other successful tips for successful plantings
continued from page 35 may indicate. Either the tree will be too deep to start or, if you backfill with soil, the tree will settle lower and end up too deep. Don’t mistake the root flare with the graft union on some trees, particularly many fruit trees. This is the point at which two different trees are spliced together, the desired tree on an “understock” to provide traits such as vigor and hardiness. If you suspect a graft union, but aren’t sure, again check with your source or a local nursery with trained professionals. A graft union will resemble a swelling or bump on the stem, compared to the flared base of a standard tree trunk. Plant grafted trees with the graft union two- to four-inches above the soil surface. Absence of a root flare near the soil surface is a sign the structural roots are too deep and need to be planted nearer to the surface. Structural roots are the large woody roots from which all the finer roots branch. Measured about four inches from the trunk, these should be no more than three
inches deep. You can find these by probing with a long thin object. Many nursery trees have few structural roots, and these may be much deeper than three inches in the root ball. Another misconception from the past is that you should amend the backfill soil. This promotes roots staying in the better environment you’ve created in the planting hole. This in turn promotes girdling roots. The recommendation now is not to amend the backfill soil, choosing the right tree for the right soil instead. Amend only if the soil is very poor, such as severely disturbed soils with rubble from construction. If you have removed soil from the trunk base to expose the root flare, this trunk tissue may be more susceptible to cold or sun injury. If such is the case, replace with a mulch but do not mulch too deep. This is another cause of tree injury, and is often referred to as “volcano mulching” from its appearance. If you haven’t excavated near the trunk, keep mulch away from it. Only mulch about two inches
Green building award:
deep, uniformly around the planting. When planting, you may create a shallow basin away from the trunk to hold water, and water well. Keep the tree watered well for the first season if there isn’t sufficient rain. It is better to water deeply, less often such as once a week, than just a little every day. If it is difficult to get water to trees, you can use a tree watering bag or “donut” ring that you fill with water, fit around the tree, and they release water slowly. You often see these in commercial landscapes, and can find them for sale at complete garden stores or online. Other practices to follow: • Don’t fertilize at planting time. • Prune only injured branches. Don’t paint tree wounds. • Remove any tree wrap or tape around trunks. • Don’t stake trees unless necessary in very windy areas, or to prevent vandalism. If you do stake, use sturdy stakes and attach the tree with wide strapping or tree roping.
The top Vt. residential and commercial buildings
continued from page 30 home close to net zero energy usage. This project was also awarded the 2016 People’s Choice Award voted by Gala attendees. The 2016 Going Green Commercial Building awards were given to Middlebury College’s 3 South Street designed by Smith Alvarez Sienkiewycz (SAS) Architects and Vermont Land Trust Headquarters submitted by Maclay Architects. The mixed-use Middlebury College 3 South Street building involved renovation and restoration of a historic building with extensive consideration for sustainable design. This LEED Platinum project uses about 30 percent of the average commercial building in New England (86 kBtu/sf/yr). The Vermont Land Trust began working with the Maclay Architects design team to develop a redesign of their headquarters that included preserving the buildings historic character, ensuring occupant health, and promoting energy conservation. This building now uses about 35 percent of the average commercial building in New England (86 kBtu/sf/yr).
Edible gardens: Use compost in raised beds to enhance your edible garden continued from page 29 point is next to the compost basket. Allow the planting area to settle for several days. Then fill your garden with your favorite vegetables. Leave just enough space between plants so they can reach their mature size. Water new plantings thoroughly. Mulch the soil with shredded leaves, evergreen needles or other organic material to help conserve moisture and continue to add organic matter to the soil. Check the soil moisture and water the garden bed and compost basket as needed throughout the season. Soon you’ll be enjoying the convenience of harvest-
www.washburnandwilson.com
ing and composting in one bed. And you just might find yourself looking for another sunny spot to add an additional keyhole garden or two. Melinda Myers has written more than 20 gardening books, including Small Space Gardening. She hosts The Great Coursewwews “How to Grow Anything” DVD series, including the latest Food Gardening For Everyone DVD set. Myers also hosts the nationally syndicated Melinda’s Garden Moment TV & radio segments. She is a columnist and contributing editor for Birds & Blooms magazine and was commissioned by Gardener’s Supply Company for her expertise to write this article. Myers’ web site is www.melindamyers.com.
The
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The Mountain Times • May 10-16, 2017 • 43
Seed library:
Submitted
One, albeit old-fashion way, to aerate your lawn.
Did you know?
One of the ways homeowners can keep their lawns looking lush and green is to aerate the turf when the need arises. Aerators perforate the soil with small holes. These holes allow air, nutrients and water to penetrate all the way to the roots, helping them grow deep and strong. Deep, strong roots are essential to healthy, lush lawns. While aeration can help many lawns, not every lawn will necessarily need to be aerated. Lawns that get heavy use, such as those that are often played on by children or pets, will likely benefit from periodic aeration. Feeling the lawn also can help homeowners determine if it needs to be aerated. Lawns that dry out quickly or feel spongy may be overcome with thatch, which can prevent lawns from getting the air, water and nutrients they need to thrive. Lawncare professionals recommend aerating lawns that contain thatch that is more than one-half inch. Thatch also can foster grub infestations, providing another benefit to removing it and aerating a lawn. When to aerate depends on the type of grass. Homeowners should consult with a lawncare professional about the best time to aerate their particular lawns, but it’s generally recommended that cool-season grasses be aerated in early spring or fall, while it’s best to aerate warm season grasses in late spring.
Use your library card
continued from page 32 made good cider, a staple alternative to potentially unsafe drinking water. During Prohibition many of the orchards were destroyed, but one tree known to be a Johnny Appleseed tree remains in Nova, Ohio. The seed library helps to remind us where our food comes from, teach children to be good to the land, and bridge the “generational gap between the Vermont farmers who built up the state’s agriculture industry and today,” said Kennedy. Most commercial seeds are grown by a handful of companies, which removes choice and narrows the gene pool, she added. And while homegrown seed may experience pollination from neighboring GMOs or accidental hybridizing, this can be avoided by pollinating by hand to keep plants “true.” Each spring the library hosts a special weekend workshop when members can plant all of last year’s leftover seed in planters to take home. Seed is also donated to local community gardens. Other seed libraries operate on a smaller scale. Jessica Langlois, the children’s librarian at the Sherburne Memorial Library in Killington, maintains a box of seed packets from High Mowing Seed organic company in Wolcott, Vt. She has already received phone calls requesting seeds. Langlois admitted she is not a professional gardener but just wants people to enjoy planting in a garden. Favorites include nasturtiums, sweet and hot peppers, beets and snow peas. Librarian Jeanette Baird in Rochester is a master gardener but she does not encourage “borrowing” because of the potential for returning unhealthy or hybridized seed. Instead, she makes seed available freely to anyone in the community, using Botanical Interests heirloom and organic seeds.
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44 • The Mountain Times • May 10-16, 2017
If this looks familiar, a heat pump might be right for you. Like you, GMP is always looking for ways to save money. That’s why we offer the hyper-efficient heat pump. It not only saves money and energy, it greatly improves the comfort of your home with heating and cooling. We call it a win-win-win. With a heat pump, you can save hundreds of dollars because it is more than twice as efficient as traditional oil or propane systems. If you’re like a lot of Vermonters and saving money wherever you can – even on tea – is important to you, let us show you how to save so much more.
For details, visit www.GreenMountainPower.com or call 888-835-4672.