DAFERMOU UNCORKED

DAFERMOU UNCORKED

text Yiota Mallas

photography Dinah Kaprou

With Cypriot labels raising their international profile, the island’s relationship with wine is now one of tradition paired with innovation. Ktima Dafermou is a Four Seasons favourite that is best explored beyond your table, at their must-visit winery in the village of Lefkara.

© CHRISTOS PAPANTONIOU

Wine production has long been the preserve of the Paphos and Limassol regions; but a boutique winery in the highlands of the Larnaca district is breaking the mould. With the opening of Ktima (meaning Domaine) Dafermou, the picturesque village of Lefkara – long known for its lace and silver handicrafts – has become a hot spot for oenophiles. The winery lends its name to the house wines at the Four Seasons, offering aromas and flavours on a par with their counterparts on the wine list.

Savvas Fakoukakis is the heart and soul ofKtima Dafermou.

Twist of Fate

Owner Savvas Fakoukakis is the heart and soul of the winery; his drive and imagination direct all aspects of its operation. His connection to wine began by chance, but developed into a love affair that has been ongoing for the past 20 years. Originally from Crete, Savvas moved to Cyprus and worked in several industries before an employment opportunity at a Limassol winery introduced him to his calling. Savvas explains: “I soon became a partner in the company, and from the beginning I was keen to learn all about the process of winemaking through hands-on involvement. It was not long before I started contemplating the idea of creating a winery of my own.”

Examining the southern slopes of the Troodos mountains in Pano Lefkara, Savvas realized that the varying altitudes would be beneficial to the cultivation of different grape varieties. “Our vines are situated at heights ranging from 750 to 1150 metres in order to achieve optimum results for each type,” says Savvas. Gradually he acquired more land, and today the Dafermou estate covers 50.000 square metres across the picturesque Lefkara countryside.

KTIMA DAFERMOU supplies the Four Seasons with red, white and roséwines to match any dish.

Savvas’s vision also influenced the design of the state-ofthe-art winery, constructed inside the mountain in order to reap the benefits of biodynamic technology. The building has a tube shape with its ends oriented in a north-south direction allowing prevailing breezes to flow through and allow cooler temperatures. The mountain walls on the west and east of the building are reinforced with insulation to resist the gathering of heat, and the production of wine takes place in the cooler lower level, deep within the hilltop. A visit to the winery offers a sweet escape from the hot climate typical of the summer months.

Hellenistic Element

The pioneering dimension of the winery also applies to its viniculture, with a strikingly unique combination of indigenous and international varieties. Cyprus and Greece share an ancient history of wine production which dominated their commercial exchanges for centuries. Savvas wanted to celebrate that connection and chose to merge the indigenous types and create new blends. “It is common practice to take Cypriot varieties and join them with established ones originating in France,” says Savvas. “I chose to pursue a niche in the market by merging Mediterranean varieties into exciting new bouquets.” It has opened the gateway for Savvas to promote relatively unknown grapes from his homeland, and especially his personal favourites.

Aged for 12 monthsin French oak barrels, the red wine develops itscharacteristic velvety tannins.

There are currently four wines in the Dafermou collection, and all are available at Four Seasons restaurants, with the red and white labels chosen as the hotel’s official house wines. Dafermou red is a distinguished full-bodied nectar in crimson. It combines the famous Syrah variety with Lefkada, which is often referred to as indigenous due to its presence in Paphos villages, but is originally from Greece. Aged for 12 months in French oak barrels, its velvety tannins are perfectly paired with red meats. Also on the Four Seasons wine list is Dafermou’s oak-aged rosé, which sees the same varieties mixed with Maratheftiko to create a complex bouquet of berries, dark chocolate and spices.

The dry white is a triad of Chardonnay, Cypriot Xynisteri and Malvasia di Candia Aromatica, a grape variety from Crete, dating back to the island’s Venetian era. Its intense floral flavour and rich aroma helps to balance the strong acidity of the Xynisteri. Its notes of citrus fruit and vanilla make it a wonderful accompaniment to seafood, white lean meats and salads. A recent addition is the 2015 production of the Greek Assyrtiko, a white grape variety indigenous to Santorini.

The unique personality of Dafermou wines is what captured the attention of the Four Seasons committee when selecting the hotel’s house wines. Leonidas Leonidou, the hotel’s Food and Beverage Administration and Sales Manager explains the process: “Six members of the hotel’s management took part in a blind tasting session in order to pinpoint wines with the characteristics we were aiming for. The samples represented eight different Cypriot wineries, but Ktima Dafermou scored the highest.”

Savouring Cyprus

A journey to the winery will transport you to a visual paradise of mountainous landscape, meticulous cultivated vines and breathtaking architectural design. The Four Seasons has taken advantage of the unique setting for the past two years, by collaborating with Ktima Dafermou in organizing regular visits. On many occasions, Savvas welcomes the hotel guests and offers them a full tour of the grounds. He provides information about the vines, the winemaking process and a guide to wine selection and storage. A member of the hotel’s culinary team accompanies the group and conjures up an exclusive set menu of Mediterranean dishes to match the wines. The gathering is an elegant wine tasting experience in the cellar dining room, walled by oak barrels. “We are inundated with visitors driving through the area, but having guests over lunch offers moments that everyone enjoys,” says Savvas.

Ktima Dafermou blends Candia Aromatica, a grape variety from Crete, with Cypriot Xynisteri and classic Chardonnay to produce a crisp dry white wine.

Savvas is a master of many talents; the winery demonstrates his interest in architecture, his attention to detail and his knack for hospitality. He refers to Ktima Dafermou as another ‘creative passion’, though it might well be simply a case of genetics. “My grandfather learned first-hand the secrets of winemaking and produced a fine red from the family vineyard outside Heraklion,” says Savvas. Whatever led him to this venture, the winery’s success is not merely a stroke of luck. With Four Seasons giving its seal of approval, Ktima Dafermou promises a sensory experience of Cyprus well worth exploring.