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GLORIOUS GUIGAL
GLORIOUS GUIGAL
text DINA MYLORDOU
Marcel Guigal is the quiet force behind the award-winning Rhone Valley wine estate of the same name. The Four Seasons was delighted to host his presentation of the latest Guigal wines to charm connoisseurs in Cyprus and beyond.
Even if you believe managers are born, not made, it cannot be easy for any teenager to suddenly find himself in charge of an established wine house in France. Yet that is the story of Marcel Guigal.
ROOTED IN THE RHONE VALLEY
In 1961, when the French winemaker Etienne Guigal suddenly lost his eyesight, his 17-year old son Marcel dropped everything to take over the management of the House of E Guigal. Unexpected as it was to be in control of the Rhone Valley estate that was established in 1946, the young Guigal rose to the occasion like a duck takes to water. He clearly remembers: “When I was just seven years old, my father asked me what I wanted to be when I grew up. The answer was obvious to me; I told him I wanted to make the most exceptional wine – just as my father did.”
The rest is not only history, it is a dream come true for Monsieur Guigal. His wines have received the ultimate score of 100/100 a record-breaking 33 times. The leading wine writer and Financial Times columnist Jancis Robinson called him “simply the best winemaker on the planet”. Decanter magazine elected him Man of the Year in 2006, saying: “Guigal, for almost four decades, has not put a foot wrong; he never falters, never disappoints.” These and other accolades culminated in Drinks International’s annual classification of the top 50 most admired wine brands, which lists Guigal as ‘The World’s Most Admired French Wine Brand’ and the second most admired European brand.
Even when history doesn’t repeat itself, it rhymes. And so it was that Marcel Guigal’s son, Philippe, shared his passion for wine. After graduating in the field with flying colours, he joined the business and is now the House of Guigal’s third generation expert oenologist.
FOUNDATIONS OF SUCCESS
Success did not fall into Marcel Guigal’s lap. He says: “I’ve been working for 56 years, starting at 5am every day, either in the cellars or in the office.” So it’s not surprising that he is known as Mr Syrah and Mr Viognier, implying his powerful bond with the two key varieties that are at home in the Rhone Valley. Guigal says: “The three factors of success are quality, quality, and quality.” Although he has an eye on demand and an ear to the ground of the industry, business acumen can only go that far. Guigal insists: “It’s all in the bottle.” And what goes into the bottle comes out of the soil, the terroir, and the microclimate that surrounds it. “The key to quality is in the terroir. Without the terroir, even a magician cannot produce an exceptional wine. The best he can achieve is a good wine,” says Guigal, who can virtually look at the soil and envisage what it can produce. Such insight and expertise can be neither bought nor stolen; it is the result of a lifetime of wine making, wine learning, and accepting that there is always room for improvement – in the vineyard, the cellar, and the vinification process.
And then there is patience. “Our healthy growth is a result of wine ageing, which is absolutely necessary to achieve the desired quality. You cannot – must not – try to speed things up.” Upholding tradition and keeping the business safe in the hands of the family are trademark qualities of the House of Guigal. “In the Rhone valley, we are not the first in volume, but the first in value,” says Guigal. And everyone will confirm that the gentle power of the House of Guigal radiates from yet another woman behind her strong man – Madame Bernadette Guigal.
HOUSE OF TREASURES
Robert M Parker, a leading US wine critic whose opinion shapes trends around the world, was unequivocal when he said: “In the past 26 years I have spent visiting wineries and vignerons, I have never seen a producer so fanatical about quality as Marcel Guigal.”
Three single vineyard wines in particular top the ranks. Affectionately referred to as ‘La-La-La’, the three Guigal treasures are La Mouline, La Landonne and La Turque – and they are reserved for regular customers. In fact, buyers may not exceed a fixed quota of this treasured triad within their overall order of Guigal wines; and to offer even smaller buyers fair access to the Guigal treasures, the quota drops as the order volume increases.
Victor Papadopoulos, Managing Director of La Maison du Vin, the exclusive distributor of E Guigal in Cyprus says: “In the past I used to almost beg Marcel to sell me more of these outstanding wines, but he would never sell me even one bottle more than the quota. But as a friend, he has given me so many more, as a gift, for my personal consumption.”
THE CYPRUS CONNECTION
With Guigal wines sold in 127 countries around the world, it is flattering that M. Guigal should choose to personally present his new range of wines on the small island of Cyprus. Papadopoulos says: “Marcel is not just an amazing winemaker, but also an amazing gentleman who loves our country.”
The focal point of his visit was the wine tasting event at the Four Seasons. Organized by La Maison du Vin on 25 May 2017, it was followed by a gala dinner for some 120 guests, including the Ambassador of France, Cyprus sommeliers, hoteliers, F&B professionals, journalists and clients who enjoyed a 5-course meal, each course accompanied by a Guigal wine to match.
During their stay, Monsieur and Madame Guigal enjoyed touring Cyprus, with Papadopoulos offering them a cross section of local wines. Guigal’s advice to Cyprus winemakers? “Protect the original wines. Vines also have DNA; they know where they belong.” But that doesn’t mean that we cannot advance and improve. On the contrary: “Even in France where we produce the best wines, in winemaking you never come to an end. As in medicine, you keep learning. Because like the human body, wine is alive. And the more you know, the more you know what you don’t know. Most importantly, never look back; always focus on the future.” A votre santé!