Mediterranean Concerto

MEDITERRANEAN CONCERTO

text YIOTA MALLAS

photography LOUCA STUDIOS

SEAFOOD SPECTACLES (top) A base of filo pastry infused with black Kalamata olive paste wraps around a colourful bouquet of grilled octopus resting on a reef of baked vegetables. (below) Prawn-stuffed celeriac ravioli are in orbit around the succulent herb-crusted roasted turbot. A sprinkle of lemon confit and the saffron bouillabaisse sauce add stardust to this delectable constellation.

Among the gastronomic elite of France, the name Mavrommatis is synonymous with Mediterranean fare of the first order. Marking a decade of collaboration with the Four Seasons, the new Vivaldi menu is quite possibly Mavrommatis’s finest tribute to Southern Europe yet.

EARTH’S ÉCLAIRA dish celebrating the beauty of Mediterranean foraging. Cannelloni with a smoky grilled aubergineand manouri filling is enhanced by a condiment of black truffle and parsley.

The culinary history of the Mediterranean is a cultural legacy shared across the region and envied by its aficionados further afield. Its joint ingredients and processes are at the epicentre of Europe’s food tradition and constitute a longstanding source of culinary inspiration around the world. In France, Cypriot chef Andreas Mavrommatis continues to reign as a leading symbol of Mediterranean gourmet creativity. “I like to classify my concept as Mediterranean food in an innovative, modern format, but with Greek DNA,” says Andreas jokingly. He has mastered the art of taking traditional recipes and adjusting the textures and tastes to suit today’s discerning palate. “Our dishes are light and beautifully balanced, but can trigger memories of the aromas and essences of a grandmother’s kitchen,” Andreas explains.

CYPRIOT CHEF ANDREAS MAVROMMATIScontinues to reign as aleading symbol of Mediterraneangourmet creativity in France.

MEDITERRANEAN MARVELS

Since the 1980s, Andreas and his family have established an empire of sorts, with their host of delicatessens and restaurants in Paris, Marseilles and Nice. The Four Seasons’ restaurant Vivaldi by Mavrommatis is Andreas’s culinary imprint in his hometown of Limassol. Unsurprisingly, the unrivalled standing of this culinary genius has long been revered on the island, having repeatedly earned the title of ‘Best Hotel Restaurant’ by TimeOut Awards Cyprus.

FOREST WHISPER Creamy chestnut cremeux lends its intensity of flavour to bitter chocolate mousse hidden beneath a sphere of cocoa crumble. Red fruit gelato and raspberry sauce complete the journey to this taste wonderland.

The new menu is a stunning interpretation of Mediterranean cooking, reflecting its harmonious union of flavours and the simplicity underlying their execution. “To me, the Mediterranean is a cultural entity itself. From Portugal to Cyprus, common values in the way of life and the approach to food create a strong link among the different countries,” says Andreas. “The generous use of olive oil, the adding of fresh tomato, limited use of cream and butter are some of the overarching principles, while gatherings are intimate and filled with emotion.”

TOUR DE FORCE

Upon the inception of new dishes, Andreas then guided Vivaldi’s Head Chef George Konstantinou in bringing the signature creations to fruition. George frequently visits Paris, where Andreas helps him gain insight into pioneering methods from the city’s leading Michelin star institutions. Mentors have included Alain Ducasse and Roberto Rispoli of the Hotel Le Royal Monceau. “I see chefs as authors of cuisine; they tell stories with every dish,” says Andreas. “For me, presentation amounts to ten percent of the experience; the lasting impression derives from the purity of ingredients and the perfection of cooking,” he says. While Andreas may argue that the visual quality of his recipes is secondary, the beautiful presentation of the dishes featured here prove otherwise.