Women’s Nepal

An “adept” (novice) will cultivate Buddha-like qualities through visualization techniques – meditating on the deity that manifests a particular quality, while chanting the mantra and performing the mudra (hand gesture) associated with that deity. The Tibetan Buddhist path also involves numerous rituals, such as prayer, offerings, circumambulation and other meritorious acts; committed followers will take vows, too. Kathmandu has several centres offering introductory courses (see p.100).

A big part of Tibetan Buddhism is the teacherdisciple relationship. More advanced students of the dharma will want to study under one of the lamas at Boudha (see p.130), some of whom give discourses in English. Nepali massage is a deep treatment that works mainly on the joints. It’s not all that relaxing, but it can be just the job after a trek. Nepalis themselves rarely receive massages after the age of about three, but numerous masseurs ply their services to foreigners. Many practitioners also offer shiatsu, Swedish or Thai massage, reflexology and so on. Others, especially in Thamel, are actually (or additionally) offering sexual services; the best advice is that if it looks or feels dodgy, it probably is.

Ayurveda

Ayurveda (often spelled “ayurved”) is the oldest school of medicine still practised. It is a holistic system that assumes the fundamental sameness of self and nature. Unlike the allopathic medicine of the West, which identifies what ails you and then kills it, ayurveda looks at the whole patient: disease is regarded as a symptom of imbalance, so it’s the imbalance that’s treated, not the disease.

To diagnose an imbalance, the ayurvedic doctor investigates the physical complaint but also family background, daily habits and emotional traits. Treatment is typically with inexpensive herbal remedies designed to alter whichever of the three forces is out of whack. In addition, the doctor may prescribe some yogic cleansing to rid the body of waste substances.

You’ll find ayurvedic doctors and clinics throughout the Hindu parts of Nepal, but those who are able to deal with foreigners are confined mainly to Kathmandu (see p.101).

In most parts of the country, women will be of interest mainly as foreigners rather than for their gender, but a few specific tips are given below.

Tibetan medicine

Medicine is one of the traditional branches of study for Tibetan Buddhist monks. Like ayurveda, from which it derives, Tibetan medicine promotes health by maintaining the correct balance of three humours: beken, phlegm, which when out of balance is responsible for disorders of the upper body; tiba, heat or bile, associated with intestinal diseases; and lung, meaning wind, which may produce nervousness or depression.

Recommended clinics specializing in Tibetan medicine are listed in the Kathmandu (p.101) and Boudha (p.134) sections.

For women travellers, most parts of Nepal are relatively easy: the atmosphere is tolerant and inquisitive rather than threatening or dangerous. Nepali society is on the whole chaste, almost prudish; men are mostly respectful to foreign women. Sexual harassment is unlikely to upset your travels: you may encounter staring and catcalling or rarely, an attempt at groping, but it’s not as bad as in India, or indeed most of the rest of the world, and seldom goes any further than words. The chief danger comes from the rare predatory trekking guide (see p.311). Wearing revealing clothing will up the chances of receiving unwelcome advances. That doesn’t mean you have to wear Nepali clothes (though it may help); just keep legs, breasts and shoulders covered and avoid skin-tight garments. A woman travelling or trekking alone won’t be hassled so much as pitied. Going alone (eklai) is most un-Nepali behaviour. Locals (of both sexes) will ask if you haven’t got a husband – usually out of genuine concern, not as a come-on. Teaming up with another female stops the comments as effectively as being with a man. If you find yourself on a public bus, you can make your way to the front compartment, where preference is usually given to ipi8hfBu+Fu1Tqp6g5eaALs= women and children. Terai cities and border towns are another matter, unfortunately. As in North India, misconceptions about Western women mean men may try for a surreptitious grope or even expose themselves. Travelling with a man generally shields you from this sort of behaviour. Don’t be afraid to make a public scene in the event of an