Porch + Prairie Fall 2023- Vermejo article

Magic in New Mexico: The Vistas of Vermejo

photo by Jen Judge

With over a half million acres, its hard to think that you could want there to be more, but that’s exactly what you get at Vermejo, the crown jewel of New Mexico, and one the shiniest pieces within the Ted Turner Reserve portfolio. Often thought of being a privately-owned national park because of its vastness and great beauty, Vermejo holds something for everyone regardless of the pursuit you choose. Nestled within the big country of northern New Mexico, Vermejo boasts a variety of landscape over the course of a 7,000 foot rise from its grassy plains to the summit of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains, whose peaks top out at over 12,900 feet. From those peaks, the entirety of northern New Mexico and certainly of Vermejo itself are a sight to behold.

Vermejo has a long and illustrious history with business icons spanning well back into the late 19th century when it was part of the Maxwell Land Grant, which at the time was one of the largest contiguous land grants in United States history at over 1.7 million acres. Throughout its history, Vermejo’s several owners and a host of celebrities and other well-known guests have taken in its beauty while steadily making improvements along the way. The main house, Casa Grande, was built under owner and Chicago businessman William Bartlett, who also re-introduced wild elk to the property and carefully maintained it until his death in 1918. Not long after, a membership club, owned by a consortium of businessmen, took hold of Vermejo until ownership changed to the hands of Harry Chandler, of Los Angeles Times fame. Chandler was well known for his media prowess and started his own club out of Vermejo, with the likes of Herbert Hoover and Will Rogers were a part. Over the next several decades, ownership continued to change until Ted Turner, known for his passion for the outdoors and wildlife conservation,

bought Vermejo from Pennzoil in 1996. As a landowner and wildlife manager, Mr. Turner’s holdings include over 2,000,000 acres of meticulously managed lands to foster wildlife sustainability, but none are as large as the Vermejo property. Within Vermejo’s boundaries are an estimated 8,000 elk, 3,500 mule deer, over a thousand bison, and a smattering of Rocky Mountain species such as the bighorn sheep, black bear, cougars, and pronghorn.

Today, Vermejo is open to guests who come in droves to experience the beauty of the land, but who walk away amazed by the hospitality, the accommodations, and the elite level of service that you experience the moment you set foot on the property. The main house, or Casa Grande, takes you back to yesteryear with a large piano, plenty of parlor seating, and the various pieces of furniture that speak of the property’s history. As the former private quarters of Mr. Turner, the 25,000 square foot home feels like something out of the early 20th century, adorned with marble columns and the sense of luxury that you’d expect of such a grand setting. Around the property, other, and no less grand, accommodations can be found to suit the guest perfectly. Cottages, meant to hold a family of 4-6, are set near the lodge and both the Turner House and Casa Grande, are right in the action but offer a level of privacy desired by some of Vermejo’s guests throughout the year. Lastly, less than an hour’s drive from the main headquarters lies the Costilla Fishing Lodge, a perfect escape for those desiring the access to world-class fishing and hunting.

With an eye set on seeing how Vermejo continues its development with a great steward like Ted Turner as its owner, we caught up with Jade McBride, President of Ted Turner Reserves, to talk about what each day at Vermejo entails, the many people who come to visit Vermejo each year and leave with wonder in their eyes, and to hear more about what might be the most scenic job in the country.

photos by Jen Judge

P+P: First off, how cool is it to be a part of Vermejo, a literal wonderland for anyone who appreciates life lived outdoors?

JM: It is truly a dream being a part of Vermejo and Ted Turner Reserves. Every once in a while, I step back in awe of the fact that this amazing property – 550,000 acres of rewilded land with unfettered access to nature – is my office. My wife, Deann, and I made a decision a long time ago to that we never wanted to live in a place where we had to lock our doors; the environment here is so remote you feel wonderfully protected within it and comfortable exploring it.

P+P: While the adventures are what initially drives someone to visit with you, it is perhaps the food and dining culture that keeps them coming back. Chef is constantly bringing new perspectives to the table in a decidedly Southwestern fashion. For those who’ve never visited, what can they expect to find with each meal at Vermejo?

JM: The culinary program at Vermejo is best described as, of the land. The protein includes wild fare like trout, quail, elk, antelope and bison, all from within the region, but prepared with Chef Lanzante’s international flare. We have a wonderful green house and garden onsite that supplies our kitchen with everything from microgreens and herbs to heirloom varieties of tomatoes, squash and melons. Perhaps the most surprising thing for visitors is that our dinners are a la minute, with a unique selection of elevated entrée options every night.

P+P: The accommodations include several options, from the

quaint and intimate setting, to larger venues for a greater party size. What are the different types of settings available?

JM: The variety of accommodations at Vermejo allow us to perfectly accommodate almost any party size. Individuals and couples can enjoy guestrooms and suites in Turner House and Casa Grande, families and friend groups enjoy our cottages, which range from 3 to 5 bedrooms. Larger parties can buyout Casa Grande mansion in its entirety for 7 rooms or the rustically-elegant, 8-bedroom Costilla Lodge in high-country, about 45 minutes from our main lodge; both of these accommodations offer a private chef co-curating all of the group’s menus with their unique preferences in mind.

P+P: The hunting is world class and loaded with trophy game across the sprawling landscape, which attracts hunters from all over the world to Vermejo, yes?

JM: The Vermejo hunting experience offers sportsmen and women conservation-minded hunting on a spectacular landscape due to the thriving ecosystem, and as such, hunting Vermejo is a highly sought and coveted experience. Our longtime clients hold this opportunity dear and are not seeking a tag, but the enjoyment and tradition of returning to Vermejo year after year.

P+P: Most avid hunters are aware that responsible hunting is a key part to a well-planned conservation program. How are those two viewed symbiotically at Vermejo?

JM: Ungulate management is vital for a healthy ecosystem. On Vermejo, our hunt program is guided by science. Wildlife biologists provide key data on the appropriate carrying capacities of antelope, bison, deer and elk, to ensure all species – including key predators like bear and mountain lion - have the opportunity to thrive.

P+P: The owner of Vermejo, the iconic Ted Turner himself, is one of the largest landholders in America with roughly two million acres in the portfolio, but Vermejo represents a large portion of that with its 550,000 acres. How does Mr. Turner’s love of the outdoors and of protecting lands come to life at Vermejo?

JM: There are some large land owners who buy up property for financial gain or for status. Ted believes that these beautiful, wild places can change people for the better. Can inspire us to do more to save the planet. That is why our mission at Ted Turner Reserves – Connecting People with Nature – supports this in our guest experience. You can visit and enjoy the land in whatever way you are passionate about: hikers trek Vermejo’s peaks and trails to enjoy the beauty and solitude, hunters and anglers enjoy the world class experience offered by a healthy natural environment, equestrians awe at the sight of free roaming horses while riding the diverse terrain, ranchers visit and marvel at how bison positively impact the North American landscape by their grazing patterns. . . all of these guests come for their own unique reasons and engage in their own passions, but all walk away with an appreciation for the work Ted has done to protect Vermejo for future generations.

P+P: At Vermejo, guests can get up close with animals and game who were once a key part to the American West, but have seen a

photo by Lindsay Curry

photo by Sean Fitzgerald

dwindling in their numbers such as Pronghorn and Bison. What has Vermejo done as a property to continue to manage these herds back to good numbers?

JM: Vermejo is a perfect example of how the health of each species depends on the health of the whole. With Ted focusing on bring back the bison after years of cattle operations, the health of the soil – which had been decimated from overgrazing of the grasses that protect it– began to return. Riparian areas, where erosion was rampant, improved, providing an improved environment for native fish species, such as the Rio Grande cutthroat trout, which was saved from endangered status by the efforts on Vermejo. Just last year we saw beaver return to our rivers. All of this leads to abundant food and water sources for pronghorn on Vermejo, despite the droughts the Western US has seen. It is all interconnected and each species of flora and fauna pays its own unique role in the overall strength of the ecosystem.

P+P: What the animals are specifically under strict management programs across the property?

JM: We are careful to monitor the populations of most species, again with the overall health of the land in mind. We manage bison, elk, mule deer and pronghorn on an annual basis.

P+P: Of course the land and the hunting is a draw, but what is there for those who prefer water adventures instead?

JM: Vermejo is an anglers paradise, with 19 fishable lakes and over 30 miles of pristine streams. Fly fishing for the Rio Grande cutthroat trout is an excellent way to witness the conservation efforts that have taken place on Vermejo. We also offer ice fishing in the winter – a fantastic opportunity for those who have never experienced it.

P+P: I envision many of the guests are couples looking for that perfect retreat, but is there a draw for families as well? What are some of the activities you see the families that are visiting engaging in most?

JM: Families love our Wildlife Drives and Bison Expedition.

It is magic to see a child beholding the great American bison for the first time. Our Via Ferrata, which is a system of ladders and cables built into the natural rock faces, is exhilarating and something most families experience for the first time together on Vermejo. Fishing and Shed Hunting are also enjoyable way for families to connect with one another and the landscape.

P+P: While much of the experience near the lodge and accommodations is more modern, are there elements of Vermejo and the experience that allow guests to go back in history a bit to touch the past?

JM: The accommodations themselves are turn-of-the-century stone manors, elegantly built over more than 100 years, and always updated with appointments that honor the past. Casa Grande is a wonderful example of this – entering into this manor, one feels the mystique of the past when the Vermejo Club hosted Hollywood’s silent picture and golden age elite. Vermejo features many historical sites, such as the impressive Catskill Kilns - remnants of the once thriving Catskill frontier logging town, and the dilapidated cabin of Elliott Barker, the conservationist who made the Smokey the Bear part of American lore. The property is also bordered by the historic town of Cimmaron, and runs parallel to the Santa Fe Trail, providing stories of wild west legends who once road through.

P+P: How have you made it so that the entire experience integrates so seamlessly with the surroundings and in such a way where it doesn’t unnecessarily disturb the flora and fauna of the area?

JM: With the same care we take to ensuring appropriate carrying capacities of animals on Vermejo, we also respect the human carrying capacity and constantly monitor the impact of our operation to ensure Vermejo continues to thrive. What’s more, the revenues generated from our guest operations fuels the greater conservation engine. This is us playing our role in the harmony of a healthy landscape. P+P

photo by Lindsay Curry