Restaurant Review

It’s as snappy and spare as a David Mamet play, the playbill’s the talk of the town, and the parking’s fabulous. As you join the crowd walking in, the anticipation builds–now that Walter’s has completed a celebrated relocation to 2 Portland Square, will food still take the leading role on this new stage?

Chef/owner Jeff Buerhaus and his wife and business partner, Cheryl, raise the curtain perfectly. Soft amber lighting and an expansive, sleek dining room with tall windows provide depth and understatement to the metrosensual decor. Now mixologist Steven Lovenguth’s imagination lights the footlights with eyepoppers like Skyline (Eagle Rare bourbon, Luxardo maraschino, Vya sweet vermouth, cherries, $9) and Nutty Scotsman (Dewar’s, Frangelico, crushed hazelnuts, $9) while we tack into a bottle of Rock Rabbit Shiraz ($27).

Crusty, spongy sourdough bread, baked inhouse, whets our appetite for the all-the-way-tothrilling creamy wild oyster stew ($8) with boar bacon, sweet potato, and saffron. Have you ever tasted something so good you close your eyes to savor it?

Up next, an Asian twist on the popular 10th-century Sicilian treat, arancini ($5). These golden balls of crumb-crusted, deep-fried rice take a surprising turn, with pronounced flavors of scallion and ginger.

We swing back to the Mediterranean with a flawless Milano linguine ($14/21), tossed in tangy lemon butter with tender shrimp, spinach, artichokes, teardrop tomatoes, feta, olives, and capers. The perfectly seared gnocchi fungi ($9/19) is also an audiencepleaser, with an earthy cream sauce jumping with chanterelles, pine nuts, and fresh parsley.

In a devious gesture, I offer my partner (contentedly making a large dent in his gnocchi) a teasing taste of my filet mignon ($24) smothered in a pool of gloriously pungent English Stilton fondue. Purple Peruvian chèvre mash and king oyster mushrooms, both in a rich veal demi-glace, play pitch-perfect supporting roles.

Dessert here is a dramatic closing act. Starry encores include blueberry Guinness cheesecake ($7), chocolate soufflé tourte with brûléed bananas and peanut butter gelato ($9), and raspberry chocolate bundt cake with champagne sorbet and pistachio cigarillo ($8).

You won’t just love this grown-and-sexy Walter’s. Consider this a standing ovation. n

WALTER’S, 2 Portland Square, Portland Lunch M-Sa 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; Dinner daily 5-9 p.m., weekends to 9:30 p.m.; Bar menu Su 5-10 p.m., M-Sa 2:30-11 p.m., F-Sa to midnight 871-9258, waltersportland.com

Walter’s Walter’s Edge Edge

A new venue sets the A new venue sets the stage for a flawless, palatestage for a flawless, palatepleasing performance. pleasing performance.

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sports bar with excellent food! Catch the season’s most exciting games on multiple wide screen flat panel TVs. W/ homemade pasta & bread, classic appetizers, soups, sandwiches, burgers; & homemade, handtossed dough for fantastic pizza. M–Sa 11 a.m.-11.p.m., Su noon-8 p.m. grdimillos.com, 699-5959 the Good table “Honest food, honest prices.” Made-from-scratch brunch, lunch & dinner. A well-rounded menu with choices to please every palate. W/ inspired blackboard specials, the kitchen always takes advantage of locally-grown produce & seafood. Full bar with seasonal cocktails. 527 Ocean House Road on Route 77 in Cape Elizabeth. [Check for seasonal hours.] thegoodtablerestaurant.net, 799-4663 Grace A 160-year-old Methodist church. Engulfed by huge cathedral ceilings & beautiful stained-glass windows, our eclectic menu & houseinfused cocktails provide a perfect atmosphere for any occasion. Located at 15 Chestnut St., Ptld, we are open Tu–Sa evenings at 5 p.m. Reservations are recommended with ample seating at our circular 30-seat bar or in our comfortable cocktail lounge. 828-4422 the Great Impasta, long-standing restaurant located on Maine St., serves Mediterranean-inspired food with a concentration on Italian dishes. This restaurant is a favorite of both locals & those from away. Incredible, fragrant aromas from the open kitchen hit you the moment you walk through the door. Vegan & gluten-free menus available. 42 Maine St., historic Brunswick. 729-5858, thegreatimpasta.com Great lost Bear, 540 Forest Avenue in the Woodfords area of Portland. A full bar with 70 beer taps w/ Maine & American Craft breweries & a large Belgian selection. Menu features salads, burgers, a large vegetarian selection & the best nachos & buffalo wings in town. Discover where the natives go when they’re restless! Every day 11:30 a.m.-11:30 p.m. greatlostbear.com, 772-0300 Jacqueline’s tea room & Gift Shop Authentic afternoon tea in an exquisite English setting. Over 70 of the finest quality loose-leaf teas to accompany your four-course luncheon of scones, finger sandwiches of all kinds & desserts. Great for intimate conversations & parties. 10:30 a.m.3 p.m. Tu-F & alternating weekends. 201 Main St., Freeport. Reservations only (not required for shopping). jacquelinestearoom.com, 865-2123 Jameson tavern, with a casual bar, lounge & dining room. The building is the site of the signing of the Constitution for the state of Maine when it broke away from Massachusetts. Classic preparations served in a graceful & elegant setting make this a fine retreat from frenzied outlet shopping. 115 Main St., Freeport. 865-4196 * Jpthornton’s Bar & Grille 740 Broadway, S. Ptld, offers upscale, fresh cuisine in a casual pub setting. Known in the Ptld area for having a “Cheers-like” atmosphere, locals & those who stumble across this hidden jewel of Foodie favorites can enjoy hand-cut grilled steaks, fresh seafood & house appetizers with a great selection of microbrews & specialty cocktails. 799-3100 Konasian Bistro & Hibachi Bar Inspired by the senses. Décor & music invigorate the international essence of taking you to a different land. F–Su evening a DJ will transform the bar into an Asian night club. Experience the world-class New York chefs prepare you a fresh, succulent dish. 1140 Brighton Ave, Ptld. konasianbistro.com, 874-0000 linda Bean’s perfect Maine lobster roll is coming to Ptld! The new location on Exchange St. will include the sweetest Maine lobster with the company of a full-service bar. Using a ¼ pound of Maine lobster fresh from her own wharves & adding her special mix of herbs earns it the right to be called “Perfect.” lindabeansperfectmaine.com lotus Chinese & Japanese restaurant, 251 U.S. Route 1, Falmouth (Falmouth Shopping Plaza). We feature full-service bar & lounge area, sushi bar, Chinese traditional food not available outside of Boston, friendly atmosphere & courteous service. 781-3453 Margaritas Mexican restaurants & Watering Hole! At 242 St. John St., Union Station Plaza, 874-6444 & 11 Brown St. near the Civic Center in Ptld, Lewiston, Augusta, Orono & Portsmouth. Always free hot chips & salsa, legendary margaritas & the house specialty, the sizzling fajita. Happy hour M-F, 4-7 p.m., free hot appetizers. 774-9398. Maria’s ristorante, est. 1960. 337 Cumberland Ave, Ptld, one street down from Congress. Ptld’s finest Italian cuisine. Maine Sunday Telegram’s four-star restaurant. Homemade sausages & finest meatballs around, thick Veal Chops a la Maria, Zuppa De Pesce Fradiavolo, homemade gelato & Italian-style cakes. Lunch & dinner Tu-Sa, $13-$25. “Preserving the authentic Italian dining experience.” mariasrestaurant.com, 772-9232 Miss portland diner A Portland original. Visit the famous 1949 Worcester diner car serving breakfast all day & homemade diner classics. Open daily from 7am to 9pm. Beer, wine & liquor. Located at 140 Marginal Way in Ptld. missportlanddiner.com, 207-210-6673 Mousse Cafe & Bakeshop Monument Square. Breakfast & lunch all day & a weekend brunch. Casual atmosphere with a full bakery, homemade ice cream & outside dining on the patio. Favorites include huevos rancheros, eggs benedict, scones, herb focaccia paninis & award-winning turkey meatloaf sandwich. Open M-F 7 a.m.-5 p.m.; Sa 8 a.m.-3 p.m.; & Su 9 a.m.-2 p.m. One Monument Way, Ptld, 822-9955 moussecafebakeshop.com. one dock Creative, contemporary, New England Cuisine & traditional Maine favorites in a relaxed setting overlooking the Kennebunk River. The menu offers “small plates” such as duck spring rolls, flatbread signature pizzas, pan-seared scallops in a maple glaze & the lobster & chipotle cheddar macaroni & cheese, proving to be fan favorites. W-Sa 6-9 p.m. 967-2621 onedock.com pats pizza Old Port offers a full bar & family dining experience in the heart of Ptld’s Historic District. Pat’s offers a full menu of appetizers, entrees, desserts & of course, pizza! We also have a large selection of salads & sandwiches for lunch. Large parties welcome, please call ahead. Located at 30 Market St. patspizzaoldport.com, 699-4455 the pepperclub is a prize-winning restaurant (“Best Vegetarian” & “Best Value” in Frommer’s Guide to New England) with creative world cuisine. Blackboard menu lists five vegetarian, three fish & three meat entrées, incl. an organic beef burger. Relaxed, affordable dining on the edge of the Old Port w/ free parking. Open nightly at 5 p.m. 78 Middle St. pepperclubrestaurant.com, 772-0531 pier 77 & the ramp Bar & Grill are owned & managed by Kate & Chef Peter Morency. Pier 77 has a formal dining room with stunning views of Cape Porpoise Harbor & live music each weekend, while The Ramp is more casual, with its own bar menu at hard-to-beat prices. pier77restaurant.com has all the details. 967-8500 * pom’s thai taste restaurant, noodle House & Sushi Bar at 571 Congress St. in Ptld, 772-7999, voted “The Best of Portland ‘09” by Phoenix readers. W/ vegetarian, wheat-free, kid’s menu, made-to-order noodle soup, and $1 sushi every M & Tu. Also in S. Ptld: Pom’s Thai Restaurant at 209 Western Avenue, 347-3000, & Thai Taste Restaurant at 435 Cottage Road, 767-3599. thaitastemaine.com the run of the Mill brewpub is in a restored mill building on Saco Island, offering quality food at reasonable prices; 24 beers brewed in-house throughout the year are rotated through seven taps. Sample 3 oz. of all beers on tap for just $5. Wine list & full bar. Trivia Mon, Open Mic Tues & live music Thurs. 571-9648, therunofthemill.net Saeng thai House Authentic Thai food. With an upbeat tempo & tantalizing dishes, zesty flavor awaits you. Entrees include crispy noodle pad Thai, house specialty seafood choo chee, pad Thai, ginger fish, Sushi & much more. Eat in, take out or delivery available. 267 St. John St. in Ptld, 773-8988, Saeng Thai House 2 at 921 Congress St., 780-0900. the Salt Exchange American-style tapas, local, organic & sustainable ingredients. Extensive beer & wine list. Wine tastings Wed 5-6:30 p.m. include complimentary canapés. Open for lunch T-Sa 11:30 a.m.-3:00 p.m. & dinner 5:30-9 p.m. (F-Sa, until 10 p.m.) Lounge open Tu-Sa11:30 till close. 245 Commercial St., Ptld. thesaltexchange.net, 347-5687 Stockhouse restaurant & Sports pub The best place to catch all of

The Danforth

A stylish boutique in Portland Maine

Recommended in GQ, August 2010 | Recommended in New York Times, August 2010

163 Danforth Street Portland Maine 04102 800.991.6557 | www.danforthmaine.com

your favorite games. Fun, family-friendly atmosphere offers a game room, 21 TVs, 16 beers on tap & large party accommodations. Daily food & drink specials & a menu w/ everything from pub-style appetizers to homemade entrees. Open daily at 11 a.m. 506 Main St., Westbrook. 8545600, thestockhouserestaurant.com Stonyfield Cafe (formerly O’Naturals) serves natural & organic flatbread sandwiches, tossed salads, rice & noodle bowls, soups, kids’ meals, organic tart frozen yogurt & Sunday Brunch. Quick service for people on the go…but our leather couches, wireless internet & comfortable atmosphere entice you to stay. Chicken, roast beef, wild bison meatloaf, wild Alaskan salmon, many vegetarian items–something for everyone. Falmouth, 781-8889, stonyfieldcafe.com Twenty Milk St., Ptld Regency Hotel, U.S.D.A. prime & choice steaks & the freshest seafood, combining award-winning classic American cuisine with fine wines in a warm & inviting atmosphere. W/ crab cakes with lemon shallot mayonnaise, baked escargot, charbroiled chili-lime scallops & sumptuous desserts. Dinner daily; also breakfast, lunch & brunch. Complimentary valet parking. theregency.com, 774-4200 Varano’s Italian Restaurant–food so good, you may never cook again. W/ stunning views of the coast & the Rachel Carson Wildlife Refuge. The best Italian food north of Boston. The menu offers signature Italian dishes & special family recipes & the comprehensive all-Italian wine list is a Wine Spectator award recipient since 2002. 60 Mile Road, Wells. varanos.com, 641-8550 Walter’s One of Maine’s most popular restaurants. Chef/owner Jeff Buerhaus is inspired by global influences. Seasonal menus are accented by creative daily specials. Extensive wine list & inventive cocktail creations complement menu offerings. M-Sa: lunch 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m., dinner from 5 p.m., bar menu 2:30 p.m.-midnight. Su: brunch 10 a.m.-2:30 p.m. 2 Ptld Square. waltersportland.com, 871-9258 Wells Beach Steakhouse & T-Bone Lounge serves prime & all-natural steaks, fresh seafood & delicious salads, w/ Kobe sirloin steaks, set in a plush atmosphere. Enjoy a selection from the highly allocated new world wine list, or a signature Wells Beach martini under the starry ‘sky’ of the lounge. 73 Mile Road, Wells. wellsbeachsteakhouse.com, 646-2252 * Yosaku, 1 Danforth St. Authentic Japanese culinary experience, designed by owner Sato Takahiro & chef Matsuyama Masahiro. Premium sushi, sashimi & rolls, incl. Yosaku, Ptld Pirates & traditional cooked Japanese cuisine for the sushi-shy. Enjoy a bento box beside a tranquil Japanese waterfall. Lunch: M-Fr11:30 a.m.-2 p.m., Sa-Su noon-3 p.m. Dinner: 5-9:30 p.m., F-Sat 5-10:30 p.m. 780-0880 *reservations recommended 18 monument square portland, maine 04101

ph 207.772.2626 fx 207.772.4861 www.shaysgrillpub.com

private functions • take-out happy hour • lunch • dinner

Portland’s only independently owned and family operated funeral home.

172 State Street, Portland • 773-6511 • ctcrawford.com

Dinner | Lunch | Brunch

Latin flavors infused with New England Charm

• Holiday Parties • Gift Certificates • Special Events • Private Event Space

44-50 Wharf St. Portland

207.772.9988

havanamaine.com

graduate & professional studies saint joseph’s college of maine