Restaurant Review

Italian Escape

Now, that’s amore.

BY COLIN W. SARGENT

Via Sophiabythe Sea has opened in Kennebunk’s Lower Village. Its sister restaurant in Washington, D.C. just won Wine Spectator’s Award of Excellence. But why have the swells landed here?

Its northernmost location at 27 Western Avenue is as beautiful and tragic as an Italian opera. e ghosts of Café Topher, Grissini Trattoria & Pani cio, Abbondante Trattoria and Bar, and Rebecca Charles’s Pearl Kennebunk & Spat Oyster Cellar still whisper their lost menus to us.

We’re nestled outside, embraced by the fragrance of a miniature lemon tree’s delicate owers. Everything and everybody seems new, including our charming server, who’s from Ocho Rios, Jamaica, and has never been to the D.C. Via Sophia. is is his rst visit to Maine.

WAY OF WISDOM

We start with a glass of red blend ($13) and the cocktail Sophisticata (limoncello, gin, Salers, Cocchi Americano, orange bitters, $15), in honor of our citrus table companion. Just days into the launch, it’s lovely here under the strings of lights as the moon rises, the vibe exciting though uneven . We thoroughly enjoy the Caprese (heirloom tomatoes, a glistening orb of fresh mozzarella, pesto, $18) in a de ly curved lunar crescent on the edge of a generous white plate, but what really knocks us out are the Fried Squash Blossoms (prosciutto, fontina, romesco, $18). Gorgeous to the eye, lighter than air, with the most delicate tasty crunch, they call us to return for themselves alone. It’s like sampling a work of art.

We choose the tangy Sword ($39), and its background of olives, fregula, fava beans, and pepperonata absolutely satis es and transports us to Italy. e Lobster Agnolotti is another straight-up winner from executive chef (and native Mainer) Luke Sibley. Luscious packets of ricotta cheese are accompanied by, rather than lled with, perfectly cooked prize lobster tails and claws, medallions of zucchini and yellow squash, and asparagus tips in a sherry and cream sauce. At $42, it belies the notion of osteria rooted in hospitality and low prices, but that eeting thought is dispelled by the experience.

Dessert? Oh, we couldn’t possibly! We order two espressos and share the Panna Cotta ($15), a rich whirl of caramel, ricotta cream, and pistachio gelato with mixed berries. Total bill: $255 including tip (yes, they charge for the San Pellegrino ).