A Sure Bet

Dinner as theater: starry night, starry restaurant.

BY COLIN W. SARGENT

It ’ s a perfect Saturday night.

ere are three of us tonight, one an electric motorcycle entrepreneur from Malawi, Africa, so we feel luck is with us when we sail into the Old Port and snag a Free Street parking spot (it’s a er 6 p.m.) directly opposite Sur Lie. is is a go-to ‘meet-you-at’ spot, dely and gracefully designed in warm earth tones. e mood and lighting are perfect to let our day unwind. What better place to eavesdrop in the Arts District? At the next table I hear a low voice: “I like the way you paint. And I like the way you look.” A sure lie? Of course it elicits an appreciative chuckle. Sur Lie refers to the aging of wine, but lines like this never get old.

We start with Blood Sweat & Tears ($14) and a Last Dance in Oaxaca ($15). e rst is a sweet and peppery gin shrub in a lovely warm tone. e second is smoky, mysterious mezcal with spiced pear and amaro. Our visitor chooses one of our local heroes, Gaze Red Ale ($9).

We discuss the menu, which is a friendly game in itself. We decide to forgo the four-course tasting menu at $75 a person because it comes with a whole-table requirement, and we long to sample from the full menu. More eavesdropping: “ ey actually had to remove the vampirism. It’s a truth. Look it up.” e Fromage ($19) knocks me out when I mingle luscious blue cheese with fragrant honey and wonder, loving it now, if it might have scared me as a child. Does cheese gain more appeal from age? e Chicken Skewers ($18) earn wows with a memorable dollop of avocado mousse. Scallops ($14) mesmerize with mirror-image shells lled with delicious, warm, extremely thin scallop slices and fresh peas. Mentis oculo, the Snap Peas ($14) shuttle avor between Mexico and ailand. e Lobster Popover ($26) with tarragon beurre monte is the largest and most dramatic presentation, like splitting a geode of mind-blowing avors. e wondrous Gulf of Maine Crab Dip ($24) with baked pimento, cream cheese, scallions, and cheddar travels with a thin-sliced baguette. But everything’s building up to Local Catch ($33), the so est, creamiest, most perfect-tasting cod I’ve ever had, paired with a savory olive tapenade. How could the cod be so great? According to NPR, “ e class of 2019 is already rebounding, already spawning a new generation.”

Dreamy tapas oat to our table as soon as they’re made, so it’s surprise a er surprise.

We’re not ready to leave yet, so we order dessert to linger. We’re already over the top, so where can the Chocolate Cremeux ($14) take us? Even higher. n

Select Area Restaurants

Brickyard Hollow Brewing Company offers unique craft pizza delivery, pickup, and dine-in from our new waterfront location at 9 Commercial Street in Portland. Featuring a diverse menu and our own craft beer, we were established by Mainers with a passion for community involvement and great experiences. Visit us in Portland, Freeport, or at our original Yarmouth brewpub. brickyardhollow.com

Anthony’s Italian Kitchen 30 years of Old World recipes. Best meatballs in town. Milehigh lasagnas, fresh-filled cannoli pastries, 54 sandwiches, pizza. A timeless great family spot. Beer and wine. Free parking. 151 Middle St., Portland, AnthonysItalianKitchen.com, 774-8668.

J’s Oyster Premier seafood destination & locals’ favorite w/indoor & outdoor waterfront seating on a scenic Portland pier. Since 1977, classic favorites, friendly service. Named by Coastal Living one of “America’s Best Seafood Dives 2016.” 722-4828.

Bandaloop has moved into a restored 1700s barn on Route 1 in Arundel. Since 2004 we have offered locally sourced, globally inspired, organic cuisine. Our new home has plenty of space, parking, outdoor seating, takeout, and an event space in the loft. We continue to offer something for every palate—from vegans to carnivores and everything in between. bandalooprestaurant.com

Authentic Thai Cooking

Hurricane Restuarant New England cuisine with an international twist. Lobster & blueberry pie! Local produce and seafood, full bar, award-winning wine list, in-house dessert chef. Sunday brunch. Live music Wednesday nights. Lunch and dinner seven days a week. Bar menu always available. Good restaurants come and go. Great restaurants get better and better. Reservations suggested. 29 Dock Square, Kennebunkport. 967-9111, hurricanrestaurant.com

The Corner Room features bright, wide-open space with towering ceilings complemented by handcrafted woodwork. Patrons can expect a warm, comfortable atmosphere, marked by the rich aromas of house-made pastas, pizzas, antipasti and artisanal breads. Come and enjoy the taste of Venice in the heart of Portland, ME! 879-4747, 110 Exchange Street. Visit thecornerroomkitchenandbar.com for more information.

Portland Lobster Company “Maine’s Best Lobster Roll,” lobster dinners, steamers, fried claims, chowder. Enjoy live music daily w/ ice-cold local beer or fine wine on our deck overlooking gorgeous Portland Harbor. 180 Commercial St., 775-2112, portlandlobstercompany.com.

Bruno’s Voted Portland’s Best Italian Restaurant by Market Surveys of America, Bruno’s offers a delicious variety of classic Italian, American, and seafood dishes–and they make all of their pasta inhouse. Great sandwiches, pizza, calzones, soups, chowders, and salads. Enjoy lunch or dinner in the dining room or the tavern. Casual dining at its best. 33 Allen Ave., 878-9511, https://www.restaurantji.com/me/ portland/brunos-restaurant-and-tavern-/

Maria’s Ristorante Portland’s original classic Italian restaurant. Greg & Tony Napolitano prepare classics: Zuppa di Pesce, Eggplant Parmigiana, Grilled Veal Sausages, Veal Chop Milanese, homemade cavatelli pastas, Pistachio Gelato & Maine’s Best Meatballs. See our own sauce in local stores. $11.95-$22.95. Open at 5 Wed.-Sat. Catering always avail. 1335 Congress Street 772-9232, mariasrestaurant.com.

Flatbread Company Portland Tucked between two wharves with picturesque waterfront views. Family-friendly restaurant w/ signature pizzas, weekly carne & veggie specials. Made w/ local ingredients, baked in wood-fired, clay ovens. Everything’s homemade, organic, and nitrate-free. 24 local drafts & cocktails showcase all-local breweries & distilleries. 72 Commercial St., 772-8777, flatbreadcompany.com.