Algarve’s Road Less Travelled Heading down to

Algarve’s Road Less Traveled

Story and Photos (unless noted) by Nancy Whiteman

When we headed down to the Algarve in late November, we decided to select “Avoid Toll Roads” on Google Maps. Not because I am frugal, but rather to enjoy the views of Portugal’s southwestern coast. We found pleasure in this more leisurely route and we found the Fisherman’s Trail.

Portugal’s Coastal Roads

One of the things I have noted since moving to Portugal is that the Portuguese don’t offer one continuous road along their magnificent coastlines. There isn’t an A1A like in Florida or a Pacific Coast Highway like in California. Instead, when traveling from Cascais to Nazaré, for example, you are forced to travel inland for significant sections. Likewise, there is not a single road that runs along the southern, Algarve, coast. Instead, you have to exit N125 at one of its many roundabouts and follow the signs to the praia (beach). Generally, that road will take you directly to the beach and back. Occasionally, it will travel along the beach for a few blocks but then return you to N125. When we chose the non-toll road route from Lisbon to Sagres, many times the coastline was not in sight. This also extended our drive time by over two hours, but we didn’t care. We are retired, i.e., on a perpetual vacation.

First Stop, Sines

Denise had read about Sines, the birthplace of Vasco da Gama, and insisted we make it our first stop. A chance to stretch our legs and take Onix, who occasionally complained about being tethered in the back seat, for a walk. We quickly found a free parking lot adjacent to the castle and took a stroll. Workers were installing Christmas lights and decorations for what we believe is going to be a Christmas Market inside the castle walls. Steep steps lead you to the top of the castle walls and provide a nearly 360-degree view which includes armaments and the Praia Vasco da Gama. Off in the distance, we saw a very large port and oil refineries. Further research led me to understand that Sines is among the largest maritime-industrial complexes in Portugal and is home to Electridade de Portugal, National Petrochemic Reginery, and Repsol. If you have been following the news, you know that China has made significant investments in Portugal including these areas. As such, I was not surprised to learn that Sines is a key port that links Africa, and North and South America to China’s New Silk Road initiative. (Why do I find this unsettling?) The morning we visited, the Museu de Sines was not open. However, after a brief stroll around the town, we were returning to our car when we came upon a pavilion protecting unearthed ruins. We learned the area dates back to the Visigoths (410-700AD) and was discovered when renovating the castle.

Sagres Lighthouse—a morning meet-up spot for local cyclists

Continuing South

We traveled south, occasionally following signs for the beach when we decided to take a look. During one of these diversions, we happened upon a small cafe perched on the top of a cliff. After ordering two lattes, we struck up a conversation with two women who had stopped for lunch. We learned that these Canadian sisters try to sneak away each year for an active vacation. This year to Portugal’s Fisherman’s Trail, the Rota Vicentina. The entire trek is 226.5km and is considered to be among the best coastal trails in the world. Well-marked, the route is intuitive, allowing for independent travel. I asked the Canadians if they were camping, and they instantly said “No!” A company had picked them up at Lisbon airport and driven them to their first hotel. From there, each day the company picked up their suitcases and deposited them at their next hotel or Airbnb before they arrived. On the last day, they would be returned to the airport. Even better than glamping, it reminded us of a luxury bike trip we took in Southern Italy … albeit without the SAG van. We arrived in Sagres later that day and found a sign with a map of the Fisherman’s Trail near the lighthouse. We have a friend who ventured off onto the Camino de Santiago several years ago. And we have an American friend, here in Cascais, who muses about doing the same. While that pilgrimage is more well-known, I am certain we will be spending a few days on part of the Fisherman’s Trail next spring … albeit with luggage movers and hotel accommodations.

Published by permission of Nancy Whiteman, whose “American Expat in Portugal” blog provides information on the process she and her partner went through to get here. Offering photos and information on the places they visit, Nancy writes a bit about the differences between living in the States and in Portugal. Read more of—and subscribe to—American Expat in Portugal at https:// expatinportugal.substack.com/.