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Alentejo Wines The Alentejo is famous for easy drinking, full-bodied, fruity red wines.
Story and photos by Rosanna Bucknill
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The Alentejo covers a vast area of land, almost one-third of Portugal, comprising eight sub-regions: Reguengos, Borba, Redondo, Vidigueira, Évora, GranjaAmareleja, Portalegre, and Moura. Portalegre is the most northern of the sub-regions, with a higher average rainfall, producing wines with more elevated acidity. Soils vary within the sub-regions, with areas of granite, limestone, schist, and clay. The region of Borba has an unusual marble bedrock which leads to its particular wines having a slight mineral element. As well as wine, the Alentejo produces large quantities of cork, olive oil, wheat, and livestock. For this reason, it is often referred to as the “breadbasket” of Portugal. Generally, the Alentejo is very dry and hot—its highest temperature—47.4 degrees Celsius— was recorded in Amareleja. Alentejo is famous for easydrinking, full-bodied, fruity red wines. Rather than being called quintas, Alentejo wineries are often called herdades. The main red grape varieties include Aragonez (also known as Tempranillo), Alicante Bouschet, and Castelão. Alicante Bouschet produces wine with a deep intense colour and bold tannin. Similarly, Castelão offers strong tannic structure and powerful red berry flavours. Trincadeira (also known as Tinta Amarela), is another common grape variety found in Alentejo blends. Trincadeira grows well in hot and dry conditions, producing wines with full body and good acidity. My initial suggestion for a good, affordable Alentejo red is EA Cartuxa. The letters EA stand for Eugénio Almeida, who organised the vineyards in 1936. The wine has a pleasant, medium body with flavours of plum, blackcurrant, and rhubarb. Whilst the Alentejo predominantly produces red wine, white is also produced. Antão Vaz is a popular white grape
variety which offers wines with tropical notes, good body, and— when well matured—floral and perfumed characteristics. Arinto is grown widely throughout the Alentejo and is often blended to produce wines with a good level of acidity. Roupeiro (also known as Siria) is a variety with high yields of grapes and characteristics of citrus and stone fruits. My recommendations for white Typical Alentejan cork trees: the bark wines include the Esporão Monte is harvested every 9 years during the Velho Branco, a blend of Antão summer months Vaz, Roupeiro, and Perrum. It’s full-bodied, high in alcohol (14%), with notes of peach, pineapple, apricot, and melon. The wine also has a high acidity, with some salinity and hints of minerality. A second suggestion would be to try the Herdade das Mouras-Tapada das Lebres de Arraiolos Premium Blanco made from Arinto and Antão Vaz. This great-value wine enjoys notes of grapefruit, and its medium body cuts, refreshingly, through salty food. A unique trait in the Alentejo is the practice of making wine using clay amphorae known as “vinhos de talha.” Introduced by the Romans, this method dates back around 2,000 years. The pressed grapes ferment for 8-15 days with their Locals pair their wines with traditional Alentejan black pork who graze on acorns skins in large clay plots; the wine is stirred twice daily, using a large wooden stick to help extract a deep colour. Eventually, the skins deposit at the bottom of the pot and the wine can be filtered. Traditionally, these amphorae wines are enjoyed in November during the Festival of São Martinho. Wine tourism master, writer, and sommelier Rosanna Bucknill studied at the Universidade do Porto and University of Edinburg.