Fashion Magazine by Henry Pascual

FASHION - LUXURY - LIFESTYLE

THE

FASHION

ISSUE

TRENDS OF THE FALL

CHANEL .COM

ANNA MOUGLALIS

THE NEW J12

IT’S ALL ABOUT SECONDS

New self-winding manufacture movement Highly resistant ceramic watch. Swiss made. 5-year warranty.

Editor’ s NOTE Dear Reader “Let’s go invent tomorrow rather than worrying about what happened yesterday.” Steve Jobs Our September issue is always one of the highlights of my year and this month we celebrate the anticipation of the future and the excitement it brings. Each time a new season arrives it’s like opening a new door and for me, the fall/ winter months are perhaps the most exciting time of the year in the Middle East. Summer is over, temperatures are cooling down and it’s time to get back outside as we celebrate a new wave of fashion. As Steve Jobs explained, dwelling on yesterday’s problems will not make tomorrow, what is important is to plan for what’s to come. Someone who has been doing that for two decades is entrepreneur Federico Marchetti, Chairman and Chief Executive Officer of YOOX NET-A-PORTER GROUP. As the founder of this global company, Marchetti has been ahead of the game when it comes to planning for the future since the first idea for his company almost twenty years ago. In our master interview with Marchetti, we discover more about his unique outlook on the future of the industry. Something else shaping up the future of fashion is the recent signing of The Fashion Pact, which brings together some of the world’s most well-known lifestyle brands as they plan their fight against climate change. Another industry insider who is inspiring us this month is fashion designer Alber Elbaz. The fashion veteran makes a return to the luxury industry through his new collection for Tod’s and we were lucky enough to meet with him as the project was revealed. We learn more about the Happy Moments collection and reflect on the past and look to the future. In this issue we also discover the latest season of Haute Couture – the shows that dreams are made of – with an indepth look at the latest collections. From couture, we move to ready-to-wear where we highlight the latest trends and collections for the coming months, such as our exclusive cover shoot for Celine as Hedi Slimane returns with his second collection for the Parisian fashion house.

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To close, we focus on some of the world’s most luxurious destinations to travel to in the coming months. So if you’re already dreaming of your next holiday, we have plenty of inspiration. Enjoy the read.

Lara Mansour Sawaya

Editor in Chief lara.m@amedadvertising.com

@aetv.me @aeworldmag

@lara_mansour

Adam&Eve (a&e) Magazine aeworld.com www.aeworld.com

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Issue 93 l September 2019

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Issue 93 l September 2019

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TRENDS OF THE FALL

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IN THIS

FASHION - LUXURY - LIFESTYLE

Cover: CELINE BY HEDI SLIMANE

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AMED Advertising - Dubai Contract Publisher Hisham Sawaya CEO hisham.s@amedadvertising.com

Lara Mansour Sawaya Managing Partner / Editor in Chief lara.m@amedadvertising.com Lindsay Judge Deputy Editor lindsay.j@amedadvertising.com Hayley Kadrou Online Editor - www.aeworld.com hayley.k@amedadvertising.com Henry Pascual Design

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112 JUST IN The Fashion Pact: Leading fashion brands come together to sign a pact in a fight against climate change as part of the G7 2019 summit. Point of View: We discuss the challenges that luxury brands are facing in China. Interview: Federico Marchetti, Chairman and Chief Executive Officer of YOOX NET-A-PORTER GROUP

HAUTE COUTURE

Haute Couture Report: Each season the Haute Couture shows are some of the most eagerly anticipated fashion moments of the year. In Focus: The Making of Valentino Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2019-2020. In Focus: The Making of Chanel Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2019-2020.

READY-TO-WEAR

Winter is Coming: Runway trends for the coming season. Fashion Editorial: Celine - Discover Hedi Slimane's A/W 2019 collection for Celine Wardrobe Investment Pieces Fashion Editorial: Wild & Free, Prada Fall 2019 Interview: Maxine Simoens, Artistic Director of French fashion house Paule Ka Fashion Editorial: Dior - Discover Maria Grazia Chiuri's A/W 2019-20 Collection

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Interview: Alber Elbaz "Changing the sole of the shoe without changing the soul of the company." Dolce & Gabbana presents its fall/winter 19-20 advertising campaign.

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ACCESSORIES

Attention To Detail: The latest accessory trends. The Making of the Dior Saddle Bag. Burberry's New Lola Bag In Focus: Sergoio Rossi rediscovers the beauty of its heritage. Interview: Fashion Designer Lorena Rivero.

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Menswear Trends Fall/Winter 2019-20 Fashion Editorial: Discover the Autunm/Winter 2019 collection by Emenegildo Zegna XXX. Sneaker Style: Versace's latest accessory.

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Time To Make A Change Editorial: Vacheron Constantin Overseas Collection. Interview: CEO of A. Lange & Söhne Wilhelm Schmid. Editorial: Excalibur Huracán by Roger Dubuis. Interview: Fendi CEO Chairman Sergr Brunschwig. Editorial: Breitling Super Ocean: Redefining The Classic Diving Watch

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Dior's Gem Dior collection. Editoiral: Bvlgari Cinnemaggia Collection. Interview: Valerie Messika Founder and Creative Director of Messika Paris. Interview: Caroline Gaspard, Founder of Akillis. Touch of Colour, Tiffany’s T collection.

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Autumn Beauty Trends. Interview: Dior Dreamskin.

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Falling Fom Fragrance: Louis Vuitton Coeur Battant. Mon Guerlain presents the newest chapter in its family. Maison Christian Dior fragrances.

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Clinique La Prairie, Switzerland.

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Al Baleed Resort Salalah by Anantara, Oman. Hôtel de Paris Monte-Carlo.

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BEST FOR LAST

The Givenchy Eden bag.

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FASHION

aeworld.com JEWELLERY

WATCHES

STELLA MCCARTNEY TEASES COLLABORATION WITH TAYLOR SWIFT INSPIRED BY HER LATEST ALBUM "LOVER" The two women are teaming up to work on a clothing collection to reflect their values but with an added sense of fun and feminine flair.

BEAUTY

LIFESTYLE

TINY BAGS ARE THIS SEASON'S RIDICULOUS YET ESSENTIAL ACCESSORY TREND How To Wear Micro bags were one of the stands out accessory trends on recent runways, and celebrities quickly adapted to the look.

aeworld.com FASHION

JEWELLERY

GET THE LOOK FROM GIVENCHY'S AUTUMN/ WINTER 2019 SHOW From the products to use to the techniques to employ, here’s how to ace Givenchy’s AW19 backstage makeup look.

WATCHES

BEAUTY

LIFESTYLE

RUNWAY MAKEUP ARTISTS TO FOLLOW FROM PAT MCGRATH TO PETER PHILIPS Get the best of backstage beauty as it happens by following these acclaimed makeup artists that create the looks for the leading names in high fashion.

NEMOZENA IS THE UAE'S NEWEST FASHION BRAND THAT HAS FOUND ITS HOME IN ITALY Born in the UAE but with production and design now based in Italy, this new and unique fashion brand is combining the influences of the East and West.

THERE'S A HUGE CHANGE HAPPENING TO LONDON FASHION WEEK THIS SEPTEMBER For the first time at the iconic event, members of the public will be able to attend certain runway shows.

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A NEW BRIDAL COLLECTION HAS LAUNCHED ON NETA-PORTER AND IT'S OH-SO DREAMY Originally created in New York, fashion brand Les Reveries made its way to the UAE thanks to its home on e-commerce powerhouse Net-A-Porter.

THE LONDON ACADEMY OF FREELANCE MAKEUP HAS LANDED IN DUBAI The world-renowned makeup artistry academy is due to make its way over to the emirate very soon, which is great news for budding makeup artists and industry insiders in Dubai alike.

VISTORIA BECKHAM HAS SHARED HER HOLIDAY SKINCARE ROUTINE AND IT'S IMPRESSIVE The mum of four took to her Instagram stories to let her 26.4 million followers in on how she looking after her skin when away.

SELENA GOMEZ IS LAUNCHING A BEAUTY LINE Another famous face is taking the world of beauty into their own hands as Selena

September 2019

JUST IN

THE FASHION PACT

LEADING FASHION BRANDS HAVE COME TOGETHER TO SIGN THE FASHION PACT IN A FIGHT AGAINST CLIMATE CHANGE AS PART OF THE G7 2019 SUMMIT

head of the G7 conference for 2019 which was held in Biarritz last month, 32 fashion brands and textile companies came together to create The Fashion Pact in order to combat climate change. The G7 conference – short for Group of Seven – sees some of the world’s most powerful and wealthy nations come together to discuss important global issues. This year’s event took place in France and was led by Emmanuel Macron, President of France. The yearly meeting focuses on global economic, political, social and security issues, it was climate control that inevitably became one of the key focuses. In particular, this year it’s the fashion industry’s commitment to playing their part to reduce climate change that has stood out, and 32 of the world’s brands came together to sign a pact that would ensure their commitment to the cause. ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA

Together, brands including Chanel, Prada and Burberry, Ermenegildo-Zegna and many more committed to achieving practical objectives in three areas: the climate, biodiversity (the variety and variability of life on Earth or on a particular habitat) and ocean protection. Sealing the deal, representatives of these companies made their way to the Elysée Palace upon invitation from President Macron to sign the pact. The incredible move came after an initial meeting in April 2019 within which the French President had tasked François-Henri Pinault – Chairman and Chief Executive Officer of Kering – with the mission to unite the key players within the industry. He worked with them to set goals that can make a difference on a global scale. It’s thought this deal will shine light and hope on more brands committing to helping climate change over the coming years. SIGNING OF THE FASHION PACT AT THE G7 SUMMIT, 2019

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CHANEL

September 2019

POINT OF VIEW

WHEN CULTURES COLLIDE THERE HAS BEEN MUCH TALK OF THE CHALLENGES THAT LUXURY BRANDS ARE FACING IN CHINA. WE INVESTIGATE WHAT'S HAPPENING IN THE MARKET AND DISCUSS THE FUTURE OF INTERNATIONAL BRANDS IN THE FAR EAST

s the world’s biggest luxury market it’s no surprise that fashion houses, watchmakers and jewellers are putting immense pressure on themselves to succeed in China. It is, after all, the most cash-rich market in the world with, according to McKinsey & Company, spending up to 770 billion yuan ($115 billion) on luxury goods at home and abroad last year, equivalent to a third of the world’s total, while a recent report by UBS reported that Hong Kong alone is responsible for 5 per cent of the world’s luxury sales.

While everyone wants to be in the country there seems to be a continuing struggle for brands to get it right in the region. In just the last few months, countless luxury brands including Dolce & Gabbana, Versace, Balenciaga, Burberry, Givenchy, Coach and more have all found themselves in situations where they have had to issue public apologies to China. Brands have cancelled shows, pulled products out of the region and even closed stores. We’re not talking niche about brands. Even huge global labels who have equally huge marketing and research teams are still sometimes getting it wrong. Stemming mostly from Chinese social media, there have been calls to boycott certain brands and demands for names to apologise both in English and Chinese. The issues in question ranged from mistakes in text on T-shirts, which were seen to be suggesting that regions of China such as Taiwan, Hong

This is not a new phenomenon, huge international luxury brands have been operating in China for decades, but the fast growing economy and increasing globalisation means the world is more accessible than ever, so the amount of brands and the speed they are opening in China is intensifying rapidly. But there is a problem.

who are paid by the state to comment and share the government approved version too, as well as bots too who are now also spreading onto other social media platforms,” says Radclyffe-Thomas.

Kong and Macau were actually different countries, to featuring these regions as separate entities on their online drop down menus, and even publicising advertising campaigns that were deemed offensive to Chinese people.

The timing of these recent incidents is also particularly bad as they come at a moment when China is experiencing political issues within its country. Protests in Hong Kong have been reaching boiling point. What started as a revolt against an extradition bill to transfer fugitives from Hong Kong to mainland China has now developed into a broader pro-democracy protest which has seen thousands of Hong Kong residents taking to the streets to stand their ground. So the Chinese government is particularly heightened to anything that may be deemed as disrespectful.

So in today’s industry how does this continue to happen? Brands would surely have done their research before entering the market, so why the errors? Luxury Fashion Consultant Babette RadclyffeThomas specialises in the Chinese market. “International luxury brands need to listen more to people on the ground, the people who are immersed in the culture and language,” she explains. “Often brands have headquarters in Hong Kong and China but a lot of direction still comes from New York or Paris. I honestly believe a lot of the recent incidents we have seen could have been avoided if the brands had run the designs or advertising campaigns past a locally based team or conducted a small focus group.”

The protests in Hong Kong are no laughing matter for luxury brands. According to a recent report by Forbes, Hong Kong accounts for 11 percent of Richemont’s total global sales, while the city accounts for 9 percent of sales at Burberry, and between 6 and 8 percent at Kering and LVMH. Brand’s like Tod’s and Prada also have around 6 per cent of their sales in Hong Kong alone. So they are looking at potential huge losses if things continue. So far, stores, shopping malls and even the airport have been forced to close and with protests erupting, shoppers are being put off visiting the stores that are open – after all, who would want to walk around with a designer bag when protests are taking place on the street? Many of Hong Kong’s sales are to those from mainland China who take day trips or holidays to the island to shop but with tensions rising between the island and the mainland, the amount visitors from there is likely to decrease.

And there’s something else intensifying the situation; social media. Chinese internet users – or as they are often referred to as ‘Neitizens’ are a unique breed. The internet in china is heavily controlled by the government and all information coming in and going out is filtered. This result is a tight knit internet-using community and information is shared and passed around within this community faster than probably anywhere else in the world. Chinese social media sites such as Weibo are the primary source of information for much of the younger generation and news spreads unbelievably quickly on these platforms. When an issue like this happens with a brand, this is where the calls to boycott certain companies will occur and stories will start circulating. “There has also been the rise of ‘wu mao’ (or The 50 Cent Army) online especially on Weibo,

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September 2019

POINT OF VIEW

understanding of the market. “Hire good people with inter-cultural communication skills who know the culture well, and then once hired actually listen to them. Send the campaign to your locally based team before it goes public to see their feedback” says Radclyffe-Thomas. If almost one third of the world’s luxury goods are purchased by Chinese consumers – why do we still see luxury brands with almost 100 per cent of their staff European? Something has to change. Radclyffe-Thomas highlights; “the Chinese luxury consumer is not one person or one target consumer. For example, there is a big difference between a Shanghainese design student who no longer shops in London as it’s not cool enough and prefers Berlin, compared to a retail magnate from a fourth-tier city – their tastes and expectations will be and are so different. So it’s really important for brands to recognise that there is no such thing as ‘the Chinese luxury consumer’ and instead diversify their understanding of this market.”

So where do we go from here? The demand for goods from international luxury brands is far from dead in China. What needs to be addressed is the ways in which these brands can do it better for the customer. There is no margin for error because when these incidents happen, savvy consumers will look elsewhere and before you know it, brands will have missed the opportunity. The key is diversity and localising content says Radclyffe-Thomas. “Diversity also needs to be reflected in the design and marketing teams and processes too. It is not enough to come to Shanghai or Hong Kong for two weeks of quick meetings and then direct the brand’s global vision from a New York base with a New York perspective.” This is what needs to be done internally, but marketing campaigns and the ways in which products are presented to the Chinese customer need to be looked at as well. “The use of models such as Gigi Hadid as a brand spokesperson seems quite out of touch as Hadid lacks cultural recognition here. Instead brands should look to more culturally relevant celebrities such as Asian stars (who might not be known in America but are huge in this market). Certain regions also have different notions as to who is perceived to be beautiful, as well as cultural notions in regards to behaviours and attitudes.”

The coming months will be crucial for brands – those who have already made errors will be working hard to rectify mistakes while others will surely be re-analysing and planning strategies going forward. There is a lot for some of the big players to consider as they put more focus on this huge, ever-changing market.

The bottom line is more research, more investment and more

It’s not just Hong Kong causing issues for multi-national brands. The economy in China as a whole has been slowing down recently – this is in part due to the ongoing trade war with the US. Going forward, many brands will likely need to raise prices in mainland China to account for a devalued yuan, which may or may not continue to decrease depending on whether the problems are resolved any time soon. This will also put off brands from investing further in a market that could ultimately make them lose money. This is especially the case for American brands such as Tiffany & Co, The Movado Group, Tommy Hilfiger and Ralph Lauren. With all this going on, Chinese shoppers are looking for other ways to shop – be it travelling elsewhere or turning to locally-based sites to buy their goods. The industry is seeing a younger generation of cash-rich shoppers who are travelling abroad to shop. The Middle East for example has seen an increase in Chinese shoppers while other markets such as the US and Japan are on the decline. The buying habits of the young Chinese generation is very different to their parents and grandparents because of the wider availability of access to the internet and social media. This is also allowing domestic brands in China to carve out their own industry. As the New York Times highlighted in its overview of Alibaba’s recent financial results “analysts say the trade war with the United States has prompted shoppers to become more selective, and many have switched to buying domestic brands that they feel are of high quality.” Particularly in the cosmetics and skincare market. China is building its own market and then of course you have the booming beauty market from Korea which could see Chinese residents shopping closer to home for beauty products rather than turning to western brands.

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September 2019

INTERVIEW

"The Middle East is definitely one of the most exciting markets for luxury."

NO LIMITS

Federico Marchetti, Chairman and Chief Executive Officer of YOOX NET-A-PORTER GROUP gives an insight into the future of the business and the plans to continue leading the market in online luxury fashion

s the world leader in online global luxury fashion, the YOOX NET-A-PORTER GROUP has become the go-to platform for luxury shoppers around the world. What started as one man’s vision 20 years ago has become a global online retail giant with a client base of over three and half million high spending customer from over 180 countries. Today the Group's multi-brand online stores include NET-A-PORTER, MR PORTER, YOOX AND THE OUTNET.

shopping experience, from start to finish. Our customers live on their smartphones, so we are obsessive about creating luxury experiences that make the most of mobility. Our family of multi-brand online shops offer a perfectly curated selection from the world’s leading luxury brands, whether the customer is shopping for the latest luxury creations straight off the runway, the most on-trend fashions from the previous season or even a piece of art to decorate their home. And we also power many of the online flagship stores of leading brands such as Valentino and Moncler. Behind the scenes, are our sophisticated technology and logistics platforms.

Federico Marchetti, Chairman and Chief Executive Officer of YOOX NET-A-PORTER GROUP founded YOOX in 1999. At that time most industry insiders and customers were still learning what the internet could offer when it came to fashion and luxury. Marchetti was ahead of the curve, managing to anticipate new customer trends and predict how markets would change and develop as the world of e-commerce grew.

What would you say is a challenge you face today and what are your plans to help you overcome that challenge? When we wanted to strengthen our offering in the Middle East, we knew we had to find the best possible partner in the region. That’s why we were eager to forge an alliance with Mohamed Alabbar’s Symphony Investments group. Now we are working to deepen our presence in China. Just as we did in the Middle East, we turned to the number one player. That’s why, together with Richemont, we established a joint venture with Alibaba to become truly unbeatable in China.

After successfully developing YOOX not only in its own right but also operating the e-commerce sites of some of the leading global fashion brands, Marchetti successfully struck a merger with NETA-PORTER founding YOOX NET-A-PORTER-GROUP in 2015. Four years on and the group is the world’s leading online luxury fashion retailer and is going from strength to strength. With over 5,000 employees around the world it is one of the fastest growing online companies in the world and in 2018 when YOOX NET-A-PORTER became part of Richemont, it was valued at six billion dollars.

In a market that is changing so quickly how does YOOX NETA-PORTER keep up with the latest technology?

Originally from Italy, Federico Marchetti now splits his time between Milan and London, overseeing the group. Marchetti graduated from Bocconi University in Milan with a degree in economics and after a short career in finance made the decision to pursue his entrepreneurial dream. Discovering the accessibility of the internet was the starting point of Marchetti’s idea to launch his own company YOOX which officially began in 2000. Almost two decades on and with a hugely successful business and more advancements in technologies than anyone ever thought possible, Marchetti is looking to new technology and artificial intelligence to help ensure YOOX NET-A-PORTER continues to be the leader in the market. Here we discuss the future of the company as it is today and what it is doing to incorporate the demands from global markets.

We’ve always been pioneers at the intersection of technology and luxury. My concern isn’t how to keep up with the latest technology as much as choosing what’s right for our customers. Back in 1999, I imagined YOOX as the shop of my dreams; I saw myself as the customer. That focus has always guided the business. That’s why so much of our innovation is focused on the mobile experience. We know that luxury customers live on their smartphones – all the more so in the Gulf region and in China, where sales via smartphones are significantly above the global average. Is Artificial Intelligence something YOOX NET-A-PORTER is working with and how do you think the business can benefit from this?

What is the main goal YOOX NET-A-PORTER is looking to achieve in the coming year?

Luxury brands have always aspired to give their customers an experience that is unique to them. AI opens up fabulous opportunities to take personalisation to a new level. Consider the online shopping homepage. No more will you see one page for our over three million customers. Instead, you’ll see three million pages crafted instantaneously for each customer, with a curated selection of luxury fashion, fine jewellery and watches, and editorial content that is suitable for their upcoming engagements. Data such as weather, location, purchase history and more could, at a customer’s request, be used to create the ultimate luxury shopping experience, all powered by AI. That said, it’s important to remember that in luxury the human touch will always be vital.

Today, we are the world leader in online luxury and fashion, with well over $2 billion in revenues. I want to ensure that YOOX NETA-PORTER GROUP is truly unbeatable for years to come. We’re doing this by offering the very best customer experience and by continuing to build a complete luxury ecosystem that is unique in the world. At YOOX NET-A-PORTER we create luxury stores that sit in the palm of your hand. We use a mix of technology and human touch to give the world’s most discerning customers a truly luxury

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September 2019

INTERVIEW

E-commerce has become such a big part of our lives, what does you foresee happening in the next five years? The future of online is all about the smartphone. Thinking forward you have to imagine how the luxury shopper of the future will engage on their personal device. Augmented Reality will bring the catwalk into each customer’s home, voice recognition will make online shopping incredibly natural, visual search will make it easy to see a piece on the street and instantly purchase it on your device. But I don’t believe in the death of the store. In fact, I see online and offline coming together to create a seamless luxury retail experience. We are developing this advanced omnichannel concept together with Valentino as one of our Online Flagship Stores. Customer service is such an important part of the customer experience – how do you ensure you excel in this when much of your company is digital? You need to strike the right balance between the human touch and the gains of technology. Our customers are very discerning but time poor. They look to us as a trusted source of style advice, inspiration and product selection. One of the ways we do this is through our Personal Shoppers, who work closely with customers. To assist them, we are harnessing artificial intelligence to build a giant database of taste that learns from 20 years of experience and recommendations of our stylists. With these insights at hand, our Personal Shoppers can offer an unmatched shopping experience to our top customers. As online and offline shopping merge together, there will be many more opportunities to balance human and machine.

NET-A-PORTER launched 17 capsule collections for Ramadan in 2019

Social media has become such a big part of consumers' lives, how does YOOX NET-A-PORTER use this to move the business forward?

NET SUSTAIN is a platform to highlight and celebrate sustainable brands on NET-A-PORTER

Social media has changed luxury forever; now, everyone has a voice. You see this in our private label, 8 by YOOX. These collections are generated by data – gathered from social networks, the web and customer behaviour – to guide our product development team. Social media has also changed the way we interact with customers. We have over five million Instagram followers who can now shop with us without having to leave the Instagram app. At the same time, social media can be a very personal channel for our most valuable customers. Our personal shoppers regularly use WhatsApp, Facebook Messenger and WeChat to advise our clients. As a global company how do you focus on specific markets while keeping your overall goal and mission? A fully localised experience has always been important for our customers around the world. We want to provide an experience that feels close to our customers and is aligned with their culture and traditions. In the Middle East, NET-A-PORTER has produced exclusive Ramadan women’s collections since 2016, as well as featuring a modest dress section for customers in the region. We also offer a choice between our signature branded packaging or discreet boxes. A localised version of THE OUTNET site in the Middle East was our group’s first-ever duallanguage site. Later this year, we will unveil other enhancements to the customer experience in the Middle Eastern market. 8 by YOOX, classic Italian design powered by artificial intelligence

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Carine Roitfeld fragrances exclusive to NET-A-PORTER

September 2019

INTERVIEW

How do you think luxury products like high jewellery and watches can successfully translate to selling digitally? There are no limits. We’ve had customers spend over $220,000 (AED800,000) for a watch on MR PORTER and $180,000 (AED660,000) for a piece of jewellery on NET-A-PORTER. Hard luxury is now one of our fastest growing categories, and our customers in the Middle East are particularly interested in fine jewellery, often purchasing items alongside luxury fashion. NET-A-PORTER recently launched EIP Privé, our first invitationonly destination that brings the experience of the private jewellery salon to the digital realm for our top customers. Along with watch exclusives and private viewings of the newest and rarest jewels, EIP Privé will provide personalised services including customisation, bespoke requests and sourcing of one-of-a-kind pieces. How important is sustainability to you as a company and what are you doing to be sustainable? I have always put a great emphasis on sustainability. In 2009, YOOX debuted YOOXYGEN, one of the first online destinations for sustainable fashion. More recently, NET-A-PORTER launched Net Sustain to help customers identify sustainable brands more easily. As a group, 99 per cent of our plastics in operations are recycled and all our shipping boxes are plastic-free. Within the production of our own label 8 by YOOX, we are experimenting with bio fabricated leather and biodegradable nylons.

EIP Privé is the ultimate destination for high jewelry at NET-A-PORTER

THEOUTNET celebrates unique collections with globally renowned designers, such as Oscar de la Renta

What changes would you like to see happen in the fashion industry to support sustainable living? The pace of change needs to accelerate. There’s been a lot of progress in the past 10 years; the misconception that design, style and luxury could not co-exist with a positive social and environmental impact is a thing of the past. Still, I’d like to see a much broader offering of sustainable fashion. What are your thoughts on the growth and trends in the Middle East? The Middle East is definitely one of the most exciting markets for luxury. Our customers in the region are young, adventurous, mobile-driven and often purchase a broad range of luxury items every season. They really value exclusivity – we see this in the success in the region of our THE VANGUARD programme that leverages our expertise in scouting and cultivating emerging fashion designers. Across our platforms last year, we introduced 400 new brands and 135 exclusive capsule collections including partnerships with The Row, Tiffany T and Saint Laurent, as well as the debut of Carine Roitfeld’s fragrance collection. As an entrepreneur what advice would you give to others that are hesitant about following their dreams? If you believe in your project, you need to act with conviction. I launched YOOX just months before the dotcom bubble burst. If I had waited, it never would have taken off. Instead, I ploughed ahead and conveyed my dream to some of the biggest names in fashion, long before anyone believed that luxury and technology belonged together. What is the professional motto you live by? Be courageous. There are many traits that make a strong entrepreneur or leader. But you can’t succeed without courage. Interviewed by Lindsay Judge MR PORTER's global Spring Summer 19 campaign

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The Row capsule collection exclusively for NET-A-PORTER

September 2019

FENDI

Colle Palatino, Rome

Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2019-2020 Each season the Haute Couture shows are some of the most eagerly anticipated fashion moments of the year. From exquisite craftsmanship at Valentino, to innovation and modernism at Givenchy, to a new chapter at Chanel and Fendi and sheer elegance at Elie Saab, this season threw up incredible highlights and never-forget moments. We discover the latest designs from some of the world’s biggest fashion houses.

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September 2019

RUNWAY

FENDI At the Colle Palatino overlooking the iconic Colosseum in Rome, Fendi put on a show of 54 Haute Couture looks on the Palatine Hill in the Italian capital with a spectacular return to the couture schedule. The Couture collection titled The Dawn of Romanity served, in part, as a tribute to the late Karl Lagerfeld, who joined the fashion house in 1965, launching women’s ready-to-wear in 1977. Created by Lagerfeld’s former partner Silvia Fendi, the collection consisted of 54 looks in total – one for every year Lagerfeld served at the Italian fashion house. As well as the stunning setting, the clothes themselves were something to marvel at too. Seemingly taking inspiration from setting around them, the collection sported terracotta and creams, while patterns of marble and mosaic ran across the looks. In a fusion of modernity and the tradition of ancient Rome, the models wore breath-taking looks that were inspired by the city they were presented in. Geometric mosaic patterns were found on show stopping ball gowns that were constructed to float perfectly around the body. Delicate dresses were embroidered with raffia and flower details were inspired by a book to Silvia Fendi by Karl Lagerfeld. The day looks mirrored the columns in the surroundings and of course there was plenty of carefully crafted and dyed furs throughout the collection. The colour palette was soft and muted, fitting perfectly with the surrounding and the edgy hair and make-up look was cleverly inspired by the seventies.

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September 2019

RUNWAY

ARMANI PRIVÉ Armani Privé told the story of fantasy and folklore with its autumn/winter 2019 Haute Couture collection. Held at Paris’s Petit Palais, the show was a celebration of folk style which became popular in the late eighties and early nineties. It was of course, given the Armani touch of elegance with a collection that embraces the contrast of femininity and masculinity while bringing a new modern freshness to the style. Of course, it wouldn’t be a Armani Privé collection without perfectly tailored pieces. Long monochrome jackets were edged with metallic thread, while tapered and loose fitting trousers were paired with crystal embellished jackets. Sheer and lightweight materials including tulle mesh, tulle, organza and delicate silk create a sense of lightness, a romantic fairytale, like a lake reflecting a ray of sunlight. Pieces were finished with fully embroidered light-reflecting crystals that capture the light and emit an elegant sparkle, while fitted bustiers create a contrasting element. The polka dot was a prominent print as it was seen in various sizes and colours on day wear. Either all over on tapered trousers or as an accent on jackets and shirts. Eveningwear was flowy and feminine. A colour palette of pale pink, blue, green and yellow made for a playful collection that had a sense of youth about it, while the addition of black made a strong statement against the softness. Perhaps one thing Giorgio Armani prides himself on is the ability to create for women of every age and this collection surely did that. Accessories came in the form of delicate rose headpieces – the rose has shown itself to be a symbol of this Haute Couture week. While statement earrings and handheld clutch bags added some context and wearability to the looks.

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September 2019

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DIOR HAUTE COUTURE Dior’s Artistic Director Maria Grazia Chiuri recently told us that what she strives to achieve with her shows is for the audience to take away an emotion. This year’s Haute Couture 2019-2020 show created an emotion of the grace and strength found in women, brought to life inside 30 Avenue Montaigne – Dior’s historic Maison, evoking a feeling of sentiment and anticipation. Maria Grazia Chiuri was inspired by the Cariatides of Paris. These ancient female sculptures can be found within the architecture of Parisian buildings, sitting high above the city’s streets. No one knows how they came to be or what these women represent. Through centuries the caryatids – an Ancient Greek term for sculptures that are part female form, part column, have come to be a metaphorical illustration of the supporting role women play both in architecture and in society. It is with these concepts in mind that’s Chiuri’s vision for this collection is very closely tied to architecture. Chiuri worked with artist Penny Slinger who offered her interpretation of the Avenue Montaigne, bringing to life the show space with natural elements. The show was opened with a slogan dress reading “are clothes modern?” a question asked by the Artistic Director to set the mood of the show. There was a certain Ancient Greek influence thanks to the toga-style cuts and loose-fitting materials but it was somewhat ironic thanks to Maria Grazia

Chiuri’s chosen colour palette which mostly consisted of black. While it was a recognition of architecture, this collection also celebrated the beauty and versatility of black. As models were mostly all dressed in the universal colour, they represented columns – striking as they graced the runway. The pieces felt quite gothic but feminine at the same time thanks to the choice of lace, fishnet and tulle. Some looks were decorated with fringing and tassels, while others were studded or finished with feathers. Geometric lines represented architectural designs and made each piece striking and strong – perhaps a nod to the image of the modern woman? The classic Dior Bar jackets were accentuated with pleating, winged sleeves, and complemented with lace. There were forties inspired silhouettes with off the shoulder cuts. The one-shoulder dress made a strong return and ballet style dresses were still firmly placed within this feminine collection. The closing look – a model wearing nothing other than a golden building represented the essence of this collection and firmly concreted the designer’s inspiration.

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September 2019

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ELIE SAAB The Lebanese fashion designer headed to Palais de Tokyo to present his collection which was influenced by Chinese and East Asian symbolism and culture. The now iconic Arab designer chose the Palais de Tokyo – a modern art gallery that defines itself as anti-museum – to present a new twist on ancient styles and symbols from East Asian and Chinese culture. Elie Saab explained that a wealth of inspiration was found in the drawings, symbols and stories that have been passed on from generation to generation over time. Taking on traditional shapes such as the kimono gown, wide sleeves, waist shaping detail and haori jackets, Saab added his own flair with heavy embellishment, silk fabrics and a touch of sheer glamour. Shades of midnight black and cherry red began the show, while aubergine tones were teamed with murky silvers and hues of blue ranged from baby blue to sapphire. As well as reworking traditional East Asian clothing cuts, the designer worked its inspiration onto feminine ball gowns that didn’t hold back on any the embellishment detail. Belt-like details featured across many of the looks, too.

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September 2019

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GIVENCHY Clare Waight Keller picked out Paris’s museum of decorative arts and design – the Musée des Arts Décoratif located in the Palais du Louvre – to display her Haute Couture collection that brought a modern edge to historic noble styles. After a long career in Ready-to-Wear, Givenchy’s Artistic Director has in the last few seasons, explored new territories with her Haute Couture collections for the iconic fashion house. Waight Keller has been praised for her modern approach to Haute Couture, combining classic techniques with innovative materials and technologies. For her autumn/winter 2019 offering she presented a high volume collection with both timeless touches and newness, creating a theatrical feel. Dubbed the Noblesse Radicale collection, the 49 looks took inspiration from a mix of the aesthetic of the past of French nobility and a modern, rebellious edge. Givenchy took inspiration from the settings and environments of the past and gave it a deconstructed update. Traditional tweed was torn in full-length dresses, hound’s tooth was shredded and crossed over to take away from the order of pattern, while flyaway ribbons escaped from fitted bodices. Feathers created excessive volume on black and white gowns while rounded shoulders with hourglass waists accentuated shape. Undone glamour was the overall feel, still gothic and romantic but verging on organised chaos.

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September 2019

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VALENTINO Pierpaolo Piccioli’s autumn/winter 2019 Haute Couture show was always going to be one of the most talked about shows of the week but few anticipated the true emotion that would fill the beautifully lit, quintessential greenhouse at the French embassy in Paris. An emotional and colourful presentation celebrated inclusivity and the beauty of every woman (a soundtrack featuring Aretha Franklin’s Natural Woman cemented this), while the show line up itself included women of all ages, (including iconic model Lauren Hutton, aged 75), nationalities and skin colours. Much like last season, the autumn/winter collection embraced the true craftsmanship of classic couture. Hours of work were celebrated through feathered coats, floral appliqués (which reportedly took 990 hours to create), handwoven tassels, oversized bows, thousands of sequins and gauze squares sewn together by hand – these details showed the work of a team of true masters. The colour palette felt more springtime than winter. Soft pastel tones and strong statement colours were paired together while clashing prints were inspired by flowers. Two-piece loose-fitting trouser and top sets created the classic Valentino silhouette of clean geometric lines, while Red-Riding hood style capes brought a sense of fantasy to the runway. Accessories came in the form of tribal-style headdresses, inspired by the folk trend. Slouchy coloured boots added a pop of colour and heeled sandals with bow details made for a playful finish. The show ended with an emotional finale that saw Piccioli walk the runway with his entire team of seamstresses – a well-deserved moment of appreciation for these men and women who worked hours and hours to create a very special collection.

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September 2019

IN FOCUS

THE MAKING OF

VALENTINO HAUTE COUTURE AUTUMN/WINTER 2019-2020

It is no secret the pride Creative Director Pierpaolo Piccioli has for his team of seamstresses and ateliers. And it’s no wonder when you admire the attention to detail and incredible craftsmanship in each of the 71 looks. We discover a little more

ehind the scenes you could feel the love and time that had gone into making these pieces. On the wall, Piccioli’s moodboard which highlighted the diverse range of women that inspired this colourful collection which celebrates diversity and individuality. A moodboard which contained Avedon portraits, Guy Bourdin advertising shots, canvases by the Italian Renaissance mannerist Rosso Fiorentino, and paintings of Diana Vreeland was translated into a romantic and powerful show.

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September 2019

IN FOCUS

The hand-stitched details in each piece can be easily appreciated at closer look with hours upon hours going in to the finer details of the garments. Floral appliques, handmade tassels, woven headdresses, a gown made of rose gauze squares, the list goes on.

The beauty look was of course a big part of Piccioli’s vision. Created by make-up mogul Pat McGrath models were given bold glitter brows in colours that matched their chosen looks, while a dramatic winged eyeliner completed the look. Hair was worn in a low bun complete with elegant braids.

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September 2019

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SCHIAPARELLI A collection of contrasts that played out like a dream sequence made for a stunning autumn/winter offering from Schiaparelli. Since the appointment of new Artistic Director Daniel Roseberry, his first independent collection was highly anticipated. To firmly cement his new place within the brand, Roseberry took centre stage sitting at an art desk as the lights raised – headphones on and head down as models began to circle around him, moving as delicately as the music played gently. The collection mixed high glamour with formality, as models donned highly embellished caps and sheer bodies under black blazers buttoned half way up the chest. These were worn with ankle strap stockings in sheer, laced and gem-adorned varieties. With tight-leg trousers being teamed with billowing fabric cuts that tucked in at the waist and left a flowing train behind, and gem-encrusted bandeaus worn with off-shoulder puffed up sleeves, shapes were contrasted and unbalanced. But as the tempo of the dream-like sequence began, models picked up the pace allowing for more impact at the fabric of black silky gowns followed behind them. Glamour was added to dark-hued suits with embellished scarves and jewelled tassels, while model’s eyes were hidden under loose fabric hats. The show finished by bringing explosive colour onto the stage – from rainbow designs to neon yellow.

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September 2019

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CHANEL In her first Haute Couture show without Karl Lagerfeld new Creative Director Virginie Viard created a bookshop setting to display her 70-looks strong collection. With the passing of Lagerfeld in February this year, the fashion world is still adjusting to the loss – least not those at Chanel, for whom he served as Creative Director for some 35 years. But after a lavish exhibition in his memory during Men’s Fashion Week in June and as we explore his successor Virginie Viard’s first solo Couture collection – is it time to finally leave the Karl era of Chanel in the past? Well, according to the edit from the new Creative Director presented within the Rmn-Grand Palais Museum in Paris – yes and no. While, understandably, Viard didn’t try to reinvent Chanel’s couture aesthetic, there were some eye-catching pieces and evening wear that demonstrated the French designer’s worth. The show opened with a series of floor length coats with a familiar feel thanks to tweed textures and decorated oversized buttons, just the asymmetric cut throwing us off. Designs with detached pockets and accentuated shoulders followed in hues of purple, orange and (naturally) black, and looks were finished with a clean belt around the waist. Evening wear came in the form of velvet blazer jackets that morphed into full-length gowns to sleek silky halterneck likewise finished with a belt. A smooth transition for Viard, who we have no doubt will fully cement her own image of the brand in the coming seasons.

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September 2019

IN FOCUS

THE MAKING OF

CHANEL HAUTE COUTURE ALTELIERS

CHANEL

Back at the Chanel Haute Couture Ateliers, the pieces embroidered by the Lesage ateliers are sent to Madame Josette’s tailleur atelier so that the seamstresses can start assembling the bomber jacket and the bustier dress. During the assembly, the outfit is tried on to ensure the proportions are respected; then the necessary finishing touches are made and the pieces are sewn together. An ivory crêpe satin lining is added as well as press stud buttons for the jacket and a zip for the dress.

FALL-WINTER 2019/20 HAUTE COUTURE LOOK 41

We discover the savoir-faire behind this entirely embroidered outfit, featuring a bomber jacket and a bustier dress CHANEL HAUTE COUTURE ALTELIERS To bring her design for this look to life Virginie Viard, Artistic Director of Chanel Fashion collections entrusted the making of the jacket and the dress to Madame Josette’s Haute Couture tailleur atelier and to the House of Lesage for the embroidery. The Haute Couture ateliers start by making the pattern of the two constitutive pieces of the outfit. This pattern, made in an ecru cotton canvas, is used to create the “toile” of the silhouette. This is tried on and subjected to the approval of Viard.

HOUSE OF LESAGE ALTELIERS

CHANEL STUDIO

Using a sample validated by the Studio, an embroidery is made using the Luneville crochet hook from 200 grams of burgundy wool yarn, 300,000 copper and pink sequins, 100,000 steal beads and 8,000 rhinestones with a silvery reflection. The Luneville technique is executed on the underside of the fabric on an embroidery loom with one hand holding the hook and the other beneath the frame, moving the elements forward. The making of this embroidery, inspired by marbled paper, required 1,800 hours of work in the Lesage ateliers.

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The final fitting of the outfit and its accessorising take place in the Chanel Creation Studio under the close observation of Virginie Viard and her team. The outfit is accessorised with black patent leather loafers made by Massaro. Once completed the look was presented at Paris’ Grand Palais as part of Virginie Viard’s autumn/winter 2019/20 collection.

September 2019

RUNWAY

ZUHAIR MURAD Known for designs celebrating femininity and elegant glamour, Zuhair Murad didn’t disappoint with a princessworthy Couture collection for autumn/winter 2019. The designer, who started his label in Beirut in 1997 has been presenting his couture collections in Paris since 2001, and 18 years later he is continuing to fly the flag for Arab fashion. This season, he dazzled with the details as always with a collection that was a fusion of boho-chic and high glamour. Busy patterns were worked onto elegant silk fabrics, sheer embellishment, skin-tight gowns that were balanced out with flowing capes, feather hems and puffed hips to create volume. This collection was a true juxtaposition of contrasting elements – bringing together the high glamour and a care-free mood. When it came to the colour palette, scarlet red shades set a seductive glamour tone, as orchid purples, Champagne creams, vivid oranges and emerald green shades followed. The final look was nothing short of show-stopping, with the model donning a full-bodied strapless bridal gown with delicate silver embellishments, complete with a pulled back veil.

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September 2019

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GIAMBATTISTA VALLI In an unusual twist, Giambattista Valli skipped the runway this season in favour of an exhibition of his latest collection – presented in the most part, not on models but on mannequins. “I wanted the people finally to look at... the artwork of making Haute Couture — and not from far and not in movement,” Valli explained during the event. And he had a great point. This unconventional way of displaying couture allowed the audience to get up close and personal with the fabrics and really see the exquisite details on the clothes, which are often overlooked with the fast-paced movement of a runway show. In total, 30 dresses were on display for three hours allowing the audience to truly inspect the hundreds of hours of work that went into Valli’s creations. The dresses themselves stood true to the brand's aesthetic. Inspired by flowers – the pieces were reminiscent of an English garden in the summertime with floral embroideries of peonies, orange blossoms, dahlias and roses. There were peony prints too that were elegantly feminine and the material was manipulated to represent the rose in the most beautiful of ways. The colour palette was very pink – from bright fuchsia to soft blush, with the addition of gowns in subtle pastel tones of soft green, lilac and grey. This presentation provided a very unique opportunity to experience in true detail the work of an artist.

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September 2019

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RALPH & RUSSO Heading to one of the most famous streets in Paris, Ralph & Russo’s Creative Director Tamara Ralph presented an ArtDeco inspired Autumn/Winter Haute Couture collection in the grounds of the British Embassy of France, located in the Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré. The location is described as a romantic, architectural pearl, and the collection that followed from Ralph & Russo’s Creative Director was perfectly fitting. Tamara Ralph pulled inspiration from the Art Deco era of the 1930s, with a focus on the creative works of artist Erté, who captured the period within his work. Evening gowns accentuated an hourglass shape, and a touch of elegance was added with pearl jewellery and embellishment with a geometric feel – a characteristic of the aesthetic of the art and fashion movement. Majestic gold and silver details were worked over daring, show-stopping shades of pillar box red and vivid pink, sunshine yellow and sea blue. Meanwhile, sharp shapes on black and white ensured the neutral shades were just as impactful. The collection was a celebration of modern femininity, working classic looks onto new designs, and evoked the life and joy of the era.

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September 2019

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GEORGES CHAKRA This time it was the Hollywood Glamour of the 1950s that inspired the Lebanese designer Georges Chakra. With a showcase held at The Palais de Tokyo, Chakra paid homage to some of Hollywood’s most iconic leading ladies. He embraced the sophistication of Rita Hayworth, the glamour of Lauren Bacall, Olivia de Haviland’s blondness and Audrey Hepburn’s assured femininity. Each look was show-stopping and fit for a Hollywood award ceremony. Long dresses with sculptured waists, jumpsuits, flowing suits, corseted jackets with structured shoulders, strapless dresses with trains – these gowns are not for the underdressed. The details were expertly crafted. Handstitched sequins added sparkle, tassels, beading, embroidery, all added more glamour to the pieces. Materials were delicate; Chantilly and guipure lace, duchess satin, pleated and embroidered tulle laid on silk crêpe, organza or gazar. While the colour palette was a wash of cobalt blues, rich greens, deep red, Champagne and soft gold hues. A collection fit for a star.

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September 2019

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GEORGES HOBEIKA Lebanese designer Georges Hobeika created a colourful collection inspired by birds of paradise. If there’s one thing that people universally associate with birds of paradise, it’s high voltage colour. Which is why Lebanese designer Georges Hobeika’s collection (which was titled after the winged animals) was not only highly saturated when it came to the garments themselves, but was presented on a candy pink runway. A near quarter-century on from opening his label in Beirut, Hobeika still creates designs that are fun and full of life. The sleeves of grey button jackets were switched out for fullbodied yellow and black feathered sleeves, while pink blended into coral on a fully embellished gown that came complete with feather detail on both the shoulders and hem to match. A bold colour palette was completed with vivid pink, orange, blue and yellows. Accessories lived up to Hobeika’s theme, too. Handbags actually mimicked the bird of paradise that inspired the collection. The overall feel was of fun and vibrancy – more is more and nothing is too much.

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September 2019

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ALEXIS MABILLE For his autumn/winter 2019 haute couture collection Alexis Mabille aimed to celebrate the craftsmanship and beautiful materials that make up the essence of couture. “My work is to highlight a woman, to dress her in a way that transcribes her state of mind.” He said in a statement after the show. With this in mind the French fashion designer decided to link each of the looks in his new collection to an aspect of women’s personalities. From frivolous to thoughtful, wild to playful, sophisticated to confident, each of the looks resonates into one of these key personality traits. The collection itself was ultra-feminine – the kinds of pieces that would be worn to a glamorous evening soiree. Mabille chose his fabrics very carefully – silk faille, crepe, tulle, organza – all some of the most delicate of fabrics that signify the true essence of couture as the designer had wished. Each of the pieces took hours to create. Something that can be seen through the details of the creations. Fabrics were enriched through washes of plisse, lace inlays, other-of-pearl and crystal embroideries. Gold thread detailing on velvet and satin was an incredible attention to detail, all of which allow the wearer to express their personality through the clothes.

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September 2019

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AZZIA & OSTA Azzi & Osta’s autumn/winter 2019 Haute Couture collection is a tribute to the golden age of couture, more precisely the vintage allure of the 1950s. The history of Haute Couture is intrinsically linked with the history of photography, and it is the work of Irving Penn that was inspiration for the two Lebanese Creative Directors. Entitled Through the Lens, the Paris show setting was a tribute to Penn’s photography studio and the designs were presented on mannequins so the audience got a closer look at the detail of the pieces. Silhouettes were of the times but in same way also timeless. Exaggerated concave waistlines provided a classic fifties look, while masculine cuts and tailored shapes put a modern twist on the style of the vintage era. Feminine sculpted gowns, exaggerated proportions and intricate tulle embroidered vintage style jackets evoked romanticism. The same thing that was the inspiration for the colour palette. Inspired by delicious floral notes the pieces were made up pf Rose pink, deep Orchid, crimson red, Gardenia, Pastel Lavender, grey Lilac and green Lily with the Tulip Sorbet featuring as the embroidery motif. The show’s piece de résistance was the Oyster - a breathtaking re-creation of Penn’s famous Aphrodisiacs image, crafted from exaggerated layers of tulle and Chantilly lace, adorned with hand-worked silk Gazar, thread embroidery and dentelle de Lyon. The back of the dress features an intricately detailed faux bow-tie, in the form of the $100 note featured in the photograph.

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September 2019

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RAMI AL ALI Dubai-based designer Rami Al Ali took inspiration from the elegance and style of Cafe Society fashion for his latest collection. From the first look to the very last showcased by Rami Al Ali, a seasonal collection was presented that was both glamorous yet incredibly wearable. The Syrian fashion creative looked to the 19th century society women – those who met in elegant cafes in cities from London to New York to socialise and organise glamourous balls and parties for those who moved in such circles. As well as their influential style, it was their nonchalant attitude that was also channelled in the collection. Working from a small palette of hues – Champagne, beige, olive green, copper orange and citron gold – the collection had an overall feel of chic elegance but with a distinct attitude. Al Ali worked with strapless designs, voluptuous ballgowns and cascading full-length cuts that worked modern twists onto timeless silhouettes – think delicate transparencies and radiant overlays. A traditional feminine form was highlighted with strong architectural shapes using fabrics such as satin, crepe, organza, tulle and chiffon to create softness and gentle movement. Another subtle nod to the effortless elegance of the decade was the use of translucent Swarovski crystals and pearls in the designs, which added another dimension and paid homage to the decadence of the era.

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September 2019

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RAMI KADI Rami Kadi's autumn/winter 2019 Haute Couture collection was a wash of rainbow tones as he brought some vibrancy to Paris Couture Week. Entitled The Temple of Flora, Kadi was inspired by Taschen’s reprint of The Temple Of Flora, a box set portfolio of illustrations by Robert John Thornton. The prints had such an impression on him that the next step was thinking of a contemporary response to them. This response became the collection. As well as colour this collection featured all the classic aspects that make up a quality couture collection. Feathers, embellishment, thousands of sequins flowing trains and Swarovski crystal-encrusted fabrics. The silhouettes were fitted and striking. Gowns were either strapless, halterneck or one shoulder. Short cropped dresses offered a more wearable option that still had a strong sense of glamour. All in all an collection that oozes sexiness yet keeps and elegant touch of femininity, expect to see many of the looks coming down many red carpets in the coming year.

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September 2019

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TONY WARD The Lebanese-Italian fashion designer is known for his feminine designs, but for this collection he took inspiration from the fruit of the earth, with fungi as perhaps a surprising muse for his designs. After teasing clips of different fabrics on Instagram – each with the hashtag #BlossomingFibers – in the days running up to the presentation, Tony Ward’s guests sat down in Paris to await his collection. And after followers of the Beirut-based designer had been guessing what his clips of mushrooms and paper mazes might mean, the light was shed as models took to the airy, bright runway. Both the texture and hues of the collection were reminiscent of the fungi. Post-show, the account revealed: “The infinite shapes of Fungi…” First came gowns in red and white – the colours that are often associated with the caricature image of a mushroom, technically the fly agaric variety. The rippled texture of the cup was utilised to create pattern and texture across the gowns. Mushrooms in the wild were imitated across the azure blue designs, with spontaneous clusters of fabrics protruding from the shoulders. Shades of taupe, beige and chocolate brown brought an earthy feel to the feminine gowns, while the show-stopping moment centred around the pristine white gown with a ‘cup’ shape to it. How the designer took such elegance inspiration from the earthy ingredient we’re not sure – but we are impressed.

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September 2019

STYLE

WINTER IS COMING... As we arrive at a new season it means the time has come for a whole new wardrobe. Credit cards at the ready, we round up the Autumn/Winter 2019-2020 ready-to-wear trends that you’ll be buying into this winter

Chanel Ready-to-Wear Autumn/winter 2019-20

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September 2019

STYLE

50 SHADES OF BEIGE

BOLD COLOURS

Ok so beige is not the most exciting of colours but it is the most versatile which was cleverly highlighted in many ways this season. From the classic trench to head to-toe beige, the key colour was seen on the runways at Chloe, Fendi, Max Mara and more.

Bright, strong, one-coloured looks will add a freshness to your winter wardrobe with primary colours such as blue and red, while strong shades of purple, orange and pink also made striking looks. Where with black accessories for a strong contrast.

MAX MARA

GIAMBATTISTA VALLI

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GIVENCHY

CHLOE

FENDI

BALENCIAGA

CHANEL

LOUIS VUITTON

EXAGGERATED SHOULDERS

CAPES

Taking inspiration from the eighties, this season was all about over exaggerated shoulders. Givenchy added bubble shoulder pads to its tailoring, while Louis Vuitton went for futuristic style shoulder pads and Giambattista Valli added a playful touch to its feminine dresses with puffed shoulder details.

Capes are the new coats and this season’s runway shows proved it. Opt for day wear pieces in prints and light tones as seen at Oscar de la Renta and Valentino, while Miu Miu put a glamorous evening wear feel onto looks with strong and long elegant capes.

GIVENCHY

OSCAR DE LA RENTA

LOUIS VUITTON

RICHARD QUINN

MIU MIU

LOEWE

MAX MARA

VALENTINO

September 2019

STYLE

FEATHER DETAILS

LUXE LEATHER

Feathers are the epitome of glamour and you can up the ante with your look this season by choosing pieces that are cleverly finished with feather details, or go for a full-on feather ensemble as seen at Saint Laurent for maximum impact.

Luxurious leather fabrics not only look chic but make a long-lasting wardrobe staple. From gothic black leather dresses at Alexander McQueen to soft blush pink head-to-toe leather ensembles at Tod’s the varieties were endless.

SAINT LAURENT

ALTUZARRA

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OSCAR DE LA RENTA

LOEWE

ERDEM

VALENTINO

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

GIVENCHY

BELIEVE IN GOLD

PREP SCHOOL

Dazzle in sparkling tones of gold that will have you party season ready this winter. Glamourous evening looks will be given some jazz as seen on the runway at Moschino, Celine, Alexander McQueen and more.

Take it back to your younger days with looks inspired by school uniforms of our childhoods. Button up shirts, mid-length pleated skirts, and sleeveless knitted jumpers were seen at Givenchy, Loewe, Fendi and Tod’s.

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

TOD'S

CELINE

MOSCHINO

LOEWE

GIVENCHY

TOD'S

FENDI

September 2019

STYLE

PURPLE

ROMANCE & ROSES

From soft lilac at Drires Van Noten and Givenchy to bold purple hues at Michael Kors the bold yet feminine colour was ruling the runways and will soon be the go-to shade in your wardrobe.

The rose has long been a symbol of love and this season designers including Prada, Valentino and Alexander McQueen brought romance to the catwalk by using the image of a rose as a key symbol to their collections.

TOM FORD

VALENTINO

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MICHAEL KORS

GIVENCHY

DRIRES VAN NOTEN

PRADA

VALENTINO

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

RAY OF SUNSHINE

POWER SUIT

Brighten up your usually mundane winter wardrobe with drops of sunshine yellow. The bright shade was seen at Marc Jacobs, Valentino, Roksanda and more. Pair with equally bold accessories for a high fashion look.

Release your inner confidence in a striking power suit. The masculine staple gets a feminine makeover for A/W19 with prints, creative colours and new softer cuts as seen at Chanel, Givenchy Alexander McQueen and more.

MARC JACOBS

OFF-WHITE

ROKSANDA

SAINT LAURENT

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

GIVENCHY

VALENTINO

CHANEL

September 2019

REGARDE PHOTOSHOOT MOI Celine

Discover Hedi Slimane's Autumn/Winter 2019 collection for Celine — a perfect harmony of pieces inspired by past decades and reimagined with a modern twist Fashion Director: Eliza Scarborough Photographer: Christian Geisselmann Hair and Make-up: Magalie Pilloux Model: Romane at Premium Location: Paris, France

PENDING

Fluid pleated dress with knotted belt in snake print georgette, long shearling gilet in tobacco, Claude boot in burgundy calfskin, Crecy camera bag in nude shiny lambskin All CELINE by HEDI SLIMANE

LEFT IMAGE: Fluid pleated dress with knotted belt in snake print georgette, long shearling gilet in tobacco RIGHT IMAGE:

Dress in leopard printed silk, belt ALL CELINE by HEDI SLIMANE

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Gathered blouse in striped silk poplin, mid-rise slim indigo union wash, overcoat with notched collar in camel cashmere pea coat wool, over the knee boot in calfskin and fur RIGHT IMAGE:

Medium 16 bag in black crocodile ALL CELINE by HEDI SLIMANE

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Loose shirt in striped black and white poplin, V yoke skirt in brown hunting checked, Sahara shearling bomber RIGHT IMAGE:

Loose shirt with "claudine" collar in navy and white classic stripes, mid-rise slim indigo, poncho with hood in brushed fair isle off-white/brown, belt in grey python with gold rounded buckle, over the knee boot in calfskin and fur ALL CELINE by HEDI SLIMANE

Turtle neck in iconic cashmere off white, straight pants in grey chalk striped wool, jacket in grey chalk striped wool, wallet on strap tassels in red shiny smooth calfskin ALL CELINE by HEDI SLIMANE

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Loose shirt in cotton with black and white stripes, Black crew neck in cashmere, Culottes in grey chevron tweed, jacket with stand up collar in beige checked, Triomphe in textile and black shiny calfskin RIGHT IMAGE:

Loose shirt in ivory silk, culottes with pleated sides in beige dogtooth check flannel, jacket in charcoal cashmere flannel, belt in ecorce watersnake with gold triomphe link, sunglasses butterfly ALL CELINE by HEDI SLIMANE

LEFT IMAGE:

Crecy camera bag in nude shiny lambskin, small triomphe bag in black watersnake patchwork RIGHT IMAGE:

Blouse in off-white silk, pleated culottes in charcoal flannel, terracotta long bolero in cashmere goat, corset belt in brown watersnake with gold chain on sides, Claude boots in brown python, Small triomphe bag in black watersnake patchwork ALL CELINE by HEDI SLIMANE

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Boule neck in shetland light grey, mid-rise slim indigo union wash, cream cape in cashmere goat, Claude boot in burgundy calfskin, Medium 16 bag in nude satinated calfskin RIGHT IMAGE:

Belt bag tassels in nude shiny calfskin ALL CELINE by HEDI SLIMANE

STYLE

WARDROBE INVESTMENT PIECES A guide to the essential pieces to invest in this season to see you through to spring

BURBERRY

BALMAIN

PRADA

SHARP BLAZER

PUSSY-BOW BLOUSE

Sharp shoulders, exquisite tailoring and clinched in waists make for the wear-with-everything perfect blazer for this autumn/winter.

Yes the classic seventies style is back. Wear your blouse with with a jacket and midi skirt for the full seventies look.

CLASSIC TRENCH

METALLIC DRESS

It never gets old and the classic trench is set to be this season’s go-to coat, especially in warmer climates, this wardrobe staple is great as a light extra layout to complete an outfit.

The little black dress has new competition. The LGD is set to become the must-have look in the lead up to the festive season. You’ll look as as cute as a gift wrapped present!

OFFICINE GENERALE AT MATCHESFASHION

VALENTINO

ZIMMERMANN

THE ROW X NET-A-PORTER

PLEATED MIDI SKIRT

FLORAL DRESS

Chic and simple the pleated midi skirt is a new wardrobe essential that doesn’t seem to be dying out any time soon. Be sure to invest in a quality one that will last you all season.

Florals, in autumn? Yes you heard us right. Invest in a floral dress this that will become your winter essential. If it’s cold pair with tights or stockings or layer this key piece with a jacket.

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LACE ESSENTIAL

From leopard print coats at Versace to spotted capes at Marc Jacobs, spots ruled the runway. Wear with classic simple separates to add some personality to your look.

Whether it’s a lace pencil skirt or a simple dress, lace is going to become an essential part of your wardrobe this fall so choose your piece wisely.

September 2019

WILD & FREE PRADA FALL 2019 Fashion Director: Eliza Scarborough Photographer: Carla Guler Hair and Make-up: Kenny at Carol Hayes Model: Edna at Select

Embroidered chantilly lace dress Popeline egypt shirt Prada Panier bag Suede sandals All Prada

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Red natté wool dress with pink duchesse draping and black satin bow Brushed calf leather boots with nylon details RIGHT IMAGE:

Printed embroidered popeline divisa dress Prada Matinee handbag All Prada

Embroidered dress in wool and lace with floral details Prada

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Shetland wool sweater Leather skirt with floral print Black lace cape Popeline egypt shirt

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White printed popeline shirt White printed popeline skirt with embroidery Monolith leather derby shoes All Prada

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Guipure lace cape White cotton skirt with rose print Popeline egypt shirt Shetland knitwear Crystal sandals

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Embroidered tulle dress Popeline egypt shirt Cotton shorts Prada Metropolis handbag All Prada

Printed embroidered popeline divisa dress Prada Matinee handbag Monolith leather derby shoes All Prada

INTERVIEW

A TOUCH OF FRANCE

AS DESIGNER MAXINE SIMOENS IS APPOINTED ARTISTIC DIRECTOR OF FRENCH FASHION HOUSE PAULE KA, WE DISCUSS HIS PLANS FOR THE FUTURE OF THE BRAND

rowing up in Lille, the birth place of Paule Ka, Maxine Simoëns was a fan of the brand from a young age. Inspired by its ability to support the diversity of women, the designer had this core value of the brand at the forefront of his mind when he took over the role of Artistic Director earlier this year.

Why did you decide to align yourself with a brand like Paule Ka? What I like about this new challenge is that I have the opportunity to create a global wardrobe for an elegant and feminine woman and the possibility to design day looks as well as cocktail dresses and evening gowns.

As the French house embarks on a new chapter, Simoëns is challenged with the mission of developing and enriching the brand’s stylistic vocabulary with the help of its workshop and teams in Paris. Paule Ka offers designs for every woman and every lifestyle which a diverse approach to cuts and styles that include something for everyone, no matter what her taste.

For you, who is the Paule Ka woman? The Paule Ka woman is independent and strong. She assumes her femininity. She loves fashion, but she is not a fashion addict. She appreciates French elegance and refinement above all.

A graduate of École de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne and the École des Arts Décoratifs, Simoëns showed his first creations at the Hyères International Festival of Fashion and presented his first collection at Paris Fashion Week in 2009. In 2015 he decided to focus purely on his menswerar line M.X Paris which he showcases every season. In 2011-2012 he also worked as Artistic Director at Léonard and, since 2017, has been at Azzaro, in charge of the ready-to-wear lines for men and women as well as the haute couture line.

What do you think women today are really looking for in fashion? Today, there are so many propositions that every woman can find her own style and universe through the brands that match her lifestyle. We are living in a relatively free time, where the diversity of styles has never been as strong as now, and that’s thanks to social media.

As he embarks on his latest challenge at Paule Ka, we talk exclusively to Simoëns on why he decided to take on this particular role and his plans for the future of the brand.

What can you tell us about the designs we are going to see from the brand going forward? I want to preserve the style of the maison, while adding my stylish touch of course! The graphism, the architecture of the clothes, the sensuality and the duality of colours will be obviously highlighted as they are our stylistic point of convergence. Also, I’ll try to bring fluidity, an embroidery game, and the french savoir-faire.

Congratulations on the new role, what are the main goals you would like to achieve? Thank you! It has been a new and exciting adventure, Paule Ka is a beautiful Maison with timeless archives and an image that never gets old. The challenge now is for me to bring a type of revival to the brand while remaining loyal to the clients. I want to maintain the effective relationship that the brand has created with its clients but give it a breath of fresh air.

You have a lot of experience designing menswear – how does this influence you or translate when you are creating womenswear? Men’s fashion doesn’t have the same demands as women’s does. The shapes remain relatively the same for men but the work is about the fabrics, the prints and the details. I developed and really deepened this sense of detail with my masculine brand M.X and inevitably this has an effect on my work for women.

Where do you see the brand heading over the next few years? I think that it is very important for Paule Ka to expand its clientele, like the Millennials for instance. I'l do this by reinforcing the e-commerce and developing communication on social media while keeping the luxury image that the brand has always had.

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then Balenciaga with the structure of clothes. I also discovered Courrèges and Cardin whose shapes strongly inspire me and I keep a great memory of all Alexander McQueen's collections who is for me one of the fashion geniuses.

We feel the brand has become a lot more visible in the last few years – is this something that is likely to continue? Nowadays, visibility in terms of communication is the main vector for the introduction of new brands, but also for the durability of those already present in the market. We must communicate with fashion specialists but especially with the final customer and that communication comes through magazines but also from websites and social networks. These new technologies and networks are having an essential impact on fashion brands these days and being left behind will inevitably condemn them.

Who would you like to dress that you haven’t had the chance yet to see wearing your designs? For me it doesn’t matter the type of woman more about whether I am affected and inspired. Whether she is an actress, singer or politician; From Nicole Kidman to Adele to Lady Gaga or even Michelle Obama. I love talented, generous women who inspire strength and confidence.

How does social media enhance or hinder the brand?

What are the luxuries in your life?

The advantage of social media is being instantaneous and having a relatively immediate impact on the buying decision process. But it is very important to know your target market and adapt yourself to it when using these platforms. For example, an image that speaks to a 20-year-old girl won’t be the same image that speaks to a 35-year-old woman, because their routines, wishes, lifestyles, and personalities differ. The purchasing power is also different, that’s the reason why it’s important to maintain Paule Ka’s image of accessible luxury that made it stand out in the fashion industry and was the origin of its success.

My ultimate luxury is to be with the people I love and spend simple moments in life with them. Things like going for dinner, going for a walk in Paris or travelling, allowing myself to discover new horizons. Sharing special moments with people who are close to me is my most precious possession.

What can we expect to see from Paule Ka in The Middle East? The Paule Ka woman I want to impulse is a woman of good taste that loves fashion, femininity, elegance and sophistication. I think these notions are the core of the Middle Eastern women's style. I hope then the Maison will get more visibility in this market.

What is your opinion on celebrity endorsements for fashion brands? Celebrities are a very important part of a brand. They allow the brand to associate the universe of an actress or singer with the values it wants to convey. Of course, it is a such honour to see many celebrities wearing Paule Ka at major industry events. What do you think it means for the brand to be made in Paris?

What is the professional motto you live by?

Paris is the capital of fashion. The greatest craftsmanship comes from Paris. The french ateliers have an exceptional hand and Paule Ka has been part of this french culture since the house has had the chance to have an in-house workshop with about forty modelist, dressmaker and patternmakers.

Do what you must, come what may. And your personal motto? What does not kill you makes you stronger!

How important is it to you to support and sustain traditional craftsmanship?

Are you reading a book at the moment? Yes I am. It’s called Goddess: The Secret Lives of Marylin Monroe by Anthony Summer.

The French savoir-faire is a luxury. It’s allows a mass market product to have attention to details, and the use of fabrics that will make it stand out from the others. It’s essential to be able to keep this culture to let the next generations appreciate the sense of scarcity.

What’s your favourite city to visit? Venice.

Who in the fashion world has been your biggest influence?

How would you describe Paule Ka in one word?

I wasn't influenced by only one designer. Jean-Paul Gaultier gave me the desire to do this job when I discovered the sketches he did for one of Madonna's concerts. Three years later I was lucky enough to work with him. But also, all the other professional experiences influence my work. Elie Saab and the sense of the exuberate femininity, John Galliano and his limitless creativity,

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Timeless. Interviewed by Lindsay Judge

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WE ARE FAMILY MARIA GRAZIA CHIURI’S FALL/WINTER 2019-20 COLLECTION FOR DIOR FALL CELEBRATES SISTERHOOD AND THE COMING TOGETHER OF STRONG, POWERFUL WOMEN Fashion Director: Eliza Scarborough Photographer: Carla Guler Hair and Make-up: Kenny at Carol Hayes Models: Inka and Neele at M&P

LEFT IMAGE: Hat, Jacket, Blouse, Necklace, Pants, 30 Montaigne Flap Bag, Pumps, Earrings, Rings RIGHT IMAGE: Hat, Bustier, Skirt, Saddle Belt, Dior Swing Monk Shoes, 30 Montaigne Flap Bag, Earrings, Rings All Dior

LEFT IMAGE:

Hat, Jacket, Shorts, Blouse, Boots, Earrings, Rings All Dior

RIGHT IMAGE:

T-shirt, Saddle Belt, Skirt, Earrings Right: Dress, 30 Montaigne Belt, Earrings, Rings All Dior

LEFT IMAGE:

Jumpsuit, Knit Top, Saddle Belt, Skirt, 30 Montaigne Box Bag, Strap, Rings Right: Jacket, 30 Montaigne Belt, Body Leather skirt, Dior Beat Low Boots, Earrings, Rings All Dior RIGHT IMAGE:

Hat, Jacket, Lady Dior Bag, Boots, Rings All Dior

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Hat, Dress, Belt, Earrings Necklaces RIGHT IMAGE:

Jacket, Earrings, Rings All Dior

LEFT IMAGE:

Dress, 30 Montaigne Bag, Shoes, Ring Right: Hat, Dress, Shoes, Ring All Dior RIGHT IMAGE:

T-shirt, Saddle Bag, Saddle Belt, Skirt, Earrings Right: Dress, 30 Montaigne Bag, Rings All Dior

Jumpsuit, Skirt, 30 Montaigne Bag, Shoes Necklaces, Rings All Dior

INTERVIEW

"Changing the sole of the shoe without changing the soul of the company." Alber Elbaz shares his vision

behind his collaboration with Tod's as the Happy Moments collection is unveiled

here’s no doubt he’s one of the most recognizable faces in fashion, but since parting ways with Lanvin in 2015, Alber Elbaz has been taking some time out of the limelight. Or so it seemed. It was recently announced that the outspoken designer has been working with Italian house Tod's on a collection that would combine the timelessness of the brand with his own unique style. And so the “Happy Moments” project was born. Tod’s and Elbaz realised that shoes are there at every happy moment in your life. Whether it’s your wedding day, the first day at a new job, your birthday, you never do anything without the perfect pair of shoes. Elbaz set out to create shoes for such moments, illustrating the joy Tod’s can bring to the life of the wearer. The starting point was the iconic Tod’s driving shoe, capturing and transforming its true spirit for the next generation and from this Elbaz put his own twist on the designs. He imagined new contexts for driving shoes, making them aerodynamic, bright, unstructured or mounted on sneaker soles either with logos or without. He also looked to new fabrics including neoprene that added a modern twist to the designs, and a metallic finish for a sprinkle of shine. As the collection recently launched in Paris, Elbaz was there to spread his own contagious happiness and energy. The designer has openly spoken of his turbulent time in the industry over the last few years but it seems he is back to doing what he does best and enjoying the moment. Here we discuss with him the collaboration with Tod’s and what other projects may be on the horizon. Tell us how this project came to life and what are the common codes that you share with a brand like Tod’s? I actually turned down working with them for two years. I was taking time out and I wasn’t sure I could do it, as it’s not my comfort zone. I’m not a shoe designer. So I asked: ‘why me? There are so many better people than me.’ But Diego Della Valle (Chairman of Tod’s group) insisted and so I did it. At first, I thought to myself ‘I have no idea what I’m going to do’, and then there’s a moment where you become very humble because you are almost lost in the forest and there and you don’t know which route to take. This is the moment when God helps you. All of a sudden you start asking questions and talking to people and you realise what you should be doing. In Paris and all over the world, so many roads are becoming pedestrianised, you see more and more people are walking and you see how shoes are becoming the new cars – everyone is using their feet again. So I started working on the collection. First, I took the sneaker that is the most important and fashionable of styles because it is a very pragmatic piece in the wardrobe. It has almost become more vital than the ‘It’ bag. Comfort is so important to women and in a moment when women are also fighting for equal rights

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INTERVIEW

and freedom it is even more crucial. When I was at Lanvin, we were the first ones to introduce ballerina shoes many years ago and we were the first ones to introduce sneakers because I have always believed in comfort. I think also as an oversized designer, comfort is something that I’m very aware of. Because I’m larger, I try to wear and design pieces that are very light because it creates a fantasy. If you see a designer that loses weight, they go from chiffon to heavy fabrics!

When it comes to the media I don’t work on commission and I’m not selling anything. I believe that we have this kind of triumph of marketing and communication. Everything is everywhere all the time so as a journalist, you are being bombarded by everyone and it’s too much. A lot of journalists are women who are sensitive but also smart. So they know who is a key success and who pushes them and I think they are sensitive to that. I’m don't read articles about what I do because I don’t want to believe in it. I only read the bad ones! It’s almost like you want to learn from what didn’t sell. You ask yourself why? Sometimes it can depress you because you think ‘maybe I haven’t done a good job’. We’re living in a time of followers where people want to see what they know, almost like a DJ can design a collection today – he just has to express himself and say ‘this is me’. But sometimes, we have to have new ideas. We have to come up with innovations and statements and really change something and for me, this is the difference between a DJ and a composer. A composer has to start from scratch and come up with something completely new and different. This is the part that’s very difficult and that takes all the energy.

Personally, I don’t work with focus groups or marketing people, I work with what I love and I have a great team. There was one girl helping me in the factory – she ordered the fabrics, she helped me to choose the colours, she was there the whole time and I don’t want people like that to be forgotten. So I invited her here for the launch in Paris. Once I do a collection I don’t like to look at it because all I see is mistakes. And that’s a good thing because once you don’t like it anymore you know that you are ready to go to another project. If you like it too much then you’re stuck. I think mistakes are beautiful – I like people who make mistakes and have opinions.

What state of mind are you in when you are designing? You know sometimes when you wake up in the morning and you just have this feeling! My process starts with having an idea that is onedimensional, making it three-dimensional and then adjusting it to real life. Then you have to look at it with your eyes, in a mirror and in a photo and ask yourself what is more important – that it’s going to look good in a photo or on the body? There are some things that look great on a woman’s body but in a photo, they don’t look good. A corset can look good – but try to move in that, try to sit on 50 metres of tulle. Imagine when women wear gowns to the Oscars – they have to come in buses because they can’t fit in cars and they cannot sit! So you have to know what you are designing for.

January? How can people not see this? I am starting to see changes. The department stores are living a hard moment, digital is affecting stores and also print magazines. So I see that there are changes and I’m very optimistic about it. That brings me to myself and to my future. For me, I have to really fall in love with the people in order to say ‘I do’. I cannot fake a relationship – if I don’t like the people I cannot work with them. This can be a problem because I don’t know how to separate work from my emotions. I like to be very involved and I’m very much a people person. I met with some people recently that I used to work with at Lanvin – they are all working at different brands in high positions and I asked them how they are and they all said ‘we’re OK but it’s not the same’. I think that what I bring, because of my personality, is that people first like me, then they hate me, then they don’t like me, then they love me forever! Because at first, I’m nice and easy going so they like me, then they see that I’m to the point and I like perfection in work so it is tough, but then they see that I’m direct and

The media have always loved you for your honesty – what is your relationship with them now and your take on what is happening in the industry?

What can you tell us about the choice of materials in the products? First of all, I thought of neoprene – it reminds me of Spanx – so I thought since everyone wears Spanx and complains that they aren’t comfortable, I wanted to make Spanx for the feet! So I shared this with Diego Della Valle and he said ‘Oh it’s like eco-leather’. So in a time when we are thinking about sustainability, I was asking a leather company to have an open mind – and that’s what I like.

What is next for you? It’s a good question! I think that fashion today is moving very fast but the system is not very fast. So everything is new every season, six times a year now, but the system is not new. There are so many clothes and collections that women cannot digest it. Before you arrive at the store it’s already on sale and there’s already the next collection. I think that women are confused because there is so much.

You have spoken of how we are all seeking happiness – can you elaborate on this? I meet a lot of people and they tell me that things are so hard – and I question – ‘how are we, an industry that has to make everyone happy not happy ourselves?’ That kind of gave me the idea for this collection.

Also, you’re not going to go in December to try a bikini. But all the bikinis are there. If you go in summer to buy a summer dress, they’re all on sale. Why would you want to buy a summer dress in

What makes you happy? Moments and people.

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will never do anything behind anyone’s back. If I have something to say I will say it to you, and this is something that I bring to a company. I bring energy. This is what the people at Tod’s have said to me – that I bring great energy and it makes them feel really happy. I’m happy that I make other people happy. Is there anything in life you would have done differently or still want to achieve? There are two things. Firstly I want to be happy with myself. I think it took me some time to find myself again. I took some time to miss fashion; I was burned by fashion so I didn’t want to touch it for a while. I have a scar inside and I believed I didn’t want to come back. But when I recovered I remembered that I love fashion people, I love the industry and I love women. I am a Gemini so I’m always about contradiction. On one hand, I love to make beautiful clothes, really exquisite clothes – not for a photo but for women to really wear, for their bodies and for their needs but not like a couturier – I want to make them dream because what I sell is a dream, but I don’t want to do it too many times a year because then you lose the joy. Secondly, I always wanted to do some kind of project with technology because that’s what is changing the world. I think that if you take a piano you have just a piano, but when you bring a pianist with emotion and knowhow then you can create music. I have been offered many jobs and I have said no. Some jobs I wanted and they didn’t offer them to me, but many were very hard to say no to, but I did. Because as Nelson Mandela said ‘winners are dreamers that don’t give up’. I have my dream and I want to be able to help women with solutions. That’s my project and where the technology will come in, but it’s very hard for me to find people that understand what I’m doing because people only want to do what they’ve done. I’m meeting so many people around the world and I want to pioneer something that will be different for women but it’s very hard to find people who understand my vision. I think the biggest problem of fashion today is the lack of taking risks. People do not want to take

risks. That is probably why I took on this project with Tod’s as it was not like I had to answer to a board of directors – I asked Diego if he liked it, he said yes, I said ‘okay, we can do it’. I didn’t have to meet a board and a marketing team and a focus group. I respect people, I always have. When I went to Saint Laurent they loved me because I didn’t destroy what had been done for forty years, I did the same at Lanvin. I am a very respectful person to what has already been created. How would you describe the collection in one sentence? Changing the sole of the shoe without changing the soul of the company. How important is passion in what you do? For me, without passion there is nothing. Without passion, there is no relationship, no innovation, no project,no fashion. Passion is a very important thing. Sometimes over-passion can kill something but you need to know how to find the middle ground. Interviewed by Lara Mansour Sawaya

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IN FOCUS

VIVA ITALIA D

olce & Gabbana presents its fall/winter 19-20 advertising campaign. True to D&G style the latest campaign features multiple models, set amongst some of Milan’s iconic landmarks. The city, which has a special place in the heart of the brand, was the birthplace of Dolce & Gabbana as well as the place where the two designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana first met.

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The campaigns for men and women are shot in the fashion capital’s glamorous downtown by photographer Branislav Simoncik, someone who is no stranger to the house having previously shot the SS19 campaign. The women’s only campaign is shot in Piazza Duomo and embodies the glamour and elegance of the city while the men’s campaign is shot in Piazza San Babila. Both feature real life circus performers among the models. The fall/winter collection celebrates the signature styles and skills that the designers have developed over their 36 years of working together and in turn celebrates beautiful Italian craftsmanship – from brocade to men’s tailoring to sequins to leopard print, this season’s offering brings together all the signatures of the brand, so it makes perfect sense to shoot the campaign in the home of the house.

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ACCESSORIES

MAKE A STATEMENT WITH BAGS Louis Vuitton’s autumn/winter 2019/2020 show saw the introduction of a number of key new bag styles that won’t go unnoticed. Bold checks and monograms led the latest creations which were paired with colour clashing, printed looks. The collection as a whole was a dedication to the meeting of old and new and the accessories clearly expressed this with the classic Monogram and Damier juxtaposed against modern and futuristic shapes. The collection features four graphic twists on classic bags – the Twist bag is now available in a quilted leather Damier while the Dauphine bag features the hypnotic 3D-inspired Monogram Damier pattern. The new Monogram LV Pop starts a new generation of bag that counts down to the future, while the brand new LV Arch bag combines timelessness with a modern twist thanks to its unique shape with a distinctive cross-over handle.

ATTENTION TO DETAIL Accessories can make or break your look. Whether it’s your choice of handbag, jewellery or the style of shoes, we discover the latest styles that will add the finishing touches to your autumn/winter wardrobe

ALL LOUIS VUITTON

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ACCESSORIES

MARY JANE SHOES

PEARL EARINGS

Cute and feminine the Mary-Jane shoe is the mustinvest style this season, as seen on the runway at Dior, Dolce & Gabbana and Miu Miu. Choose from kitten heels, flats or the high chunky heel variety.

Nothing says elegance like a pearl earring, and this autumn it is going to be the go-to jewellery of choice for those looking for understated glamour. Take inspiration from the runway at Chanel, Givenchy and Prabul Gurung.

GIVENCHY

DOLCE & GABBANA

DIOR

MIU MIU

PRABUL GURUNG

CHANEL

FASCINATORS

SNAKESKIN DETAILS

Add some elegance to your look with elegant fascinators. Opt for feminine floral pieces as seen at Rodarte, while Michael Kors went for elegant understated styles with netting detail.

Snakeskin shoes and bags are the ultimate status statement. Opt for rich autumnal tones as seen at Celine and Chloe or light stand-out shoes as seen on the runway at Givenchy.

CHLOE

RODARTE

MICHAEL KORS

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ACCESSORIES

BOLD HATS Headgear came in all shapes and sizes but the one thing they all had in common was to make a strong statement. From Amish-style bucket hats at Valentino to slouchy caps at Marc Jacobs there was something to suit every taste.

MICHAEL KORS

VALENTINO

DIOR

OVERSIZED CHAINS Throw it back to the old school with oversized gold and silver chains. This costume jewellery piece isn’t for everyone but wearing it with something simple as seen at Bottega Veneta, Alexander McQueen and Balenciaga gives the style a whole new lease of life.

BALENCIAGA

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

BOTTEGA VENETA

CROSS BODY BAGS

LADYLIKE BAGS

The fuss-free convenient way to wear a bag is across the body. As function prevails over fashion for today’s modern woman this cross-body bag is the perfect solution. Take style inspiration from Fendi, Hermes and Versace.

Top handle bags are the most feminine of all – so much so even the Queen wears them. Elegant new bag designs were seen on the runway at Loewe, Prada and Salvatore Ferragamo to name a few.

VERSACE

HERMES

FENDI

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ACCESSORIES

DOLCE & GABBANA

PACO RABANNE

OTT JEWELS

FANCY FEET

Sometimes more is more, and this season’s jewellery trends embrace just that. Think OTT blingy matching necklaces and earrings worn together for a full sparkly look. Dolce & Gabbana, Paco Rabanne and Chanel perfectly embraced the style.

Add some personality to your toes with sparkly shoes that will make you feel a million dollars. Givenchy, Prada and Tom Ford all added glitter encrusted heels to their looks for a disco-fever feeling.

CHANEL

TOM FORD

PRADA

GIVENCHY

SOCKS & SHOES

RETRO SUNNIES

Once thought of as a fashion faux pas, socks and shoes have proved themselves to be more edgy than ever imagined. Court shoes or Mary Janes were paired with colour clashing socks or tights at Versace, Fendi and Dior and we think it’s catching on.

Sunglasses take a step back in time this season with oversized, colourful retro frames being the style of choice. Fendi, Max Mara and Gucci all displayed new and cutting edge vintage inspired styles.

DIOR

FENDI

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THE MAKING OF

DIOR SADDLE BAG THE ICONIC SADDLE BAG, WHICH WAS FIRST DESIGNED IN 1999 GETS A NEW LOOK FOR AUTUMN/WINTER 2019

n a design that mirrors its debut style in denim in 2000, Maria Grazia Chiuri has created a stylish denim edition for autumn/ winter 2019-20. The denim edition is both modern and timeless as it brings this classic accessory in line with today’s trends.

Then another craftsman places the two parts that comprise the flap on a form and shapes the material with his hands, aided by a roundheaded hammer to create the necessary undulation. Next, the front and back panels are placed on a second wooden form. There, the sides and base of the bag will be mounted and sewn to the two central parts. The craftsman works the leather to create the design’s two contoured gussets. Like a couture signature, the words “Christian Dior Paris” are heat-embossed with a gold ribbon on the inside pocket. The ensemble is then skilfully and precisely stitched with a sewing machine.

From the initial sketch, to the meticulous choosing of the perfect shade and textured denim, to completing the piece with the classic Christian Dior logo, the new ‘It’ bag was conceived through careful design and forward thinking style. “I wanted it larger and more robust, but also very colourful, embroidered or with beaded fringe because, like a chameleon, it adapts to all situations,” Maria Grazia Chiuri said of her re-design of this timeless classic. One of the specific things that sets it apart is that it is the only bag from the house that requires two separate oak wood forms to create its highly distinctive curves which recall those of a riding saddle. After having selected the best red supple calf leather, with a slightly glossy finish, Marco, a leather expert with forty-three years experience, cuts out the bag’s eleven elements using an especially sharp blade.

With the bag assembled, the metal pieces embellishing it are added: the “D” is sewn on the leather tab at the front, and the two “CD” buckles are set in place on the sides just before where the strap will be placed, specially conceived for optimal comfort, whether wearing on the shoulder or carried in the hand. These two attachments allow for the addition of a wide canvas strap decorated with metal medallions in order to personalize an outfit. In the final step, the Saddle is meticulously quality controlled down to the tiniest detail.

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LET IT SHINE BURBERRY'S NEW LOLA BAG DEBUTS A MIDDLE EAST EXCLUSIVE METALLIC COLOURWAY

First introduced as part of Riccardo Tisci’s autumn/winter 2019 runway collection, the Lola bag is the evolution of Burberry’s TB bag and is set to become the brand’s ‘It Bag’ of the season. Available in both men’s and women’s styles the Lola bag, which was part of the Tempest collection, features the TB logo in metal hardware, referencing the initials of the house’s founder Thomas Burberry and celebrating the history of the house. The Lola bag is available in various colourways and two sizes and includes an exclusive metallic version available only here in the Middle East which is perfect for the winter months and of course the festive season. The gold and silver bag comes complete with a gold cross body strap and three-dimensional details. The leather is quilted and padded to replicate the iconic Burberry check and features a hand-stitched gusset detail with special twisted thread technique. The Lola bag was made in Italy using fine grain soft lamb leather with an aniline finish for long-lasting natural colour. Available at Burberry stores throughout the Middle East.

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IN FOCUS

LIVING HERITAGE Sergoio Rossi rediscovers the beauty of its heritage with a unique project that celebrates some of the brand’s most iconic shoe creations

ith an incredible history spanning over 60 years, Sergio Rossi has a lot to look back on, but this luxury Italian brand is also planning for the future as it celebrates its heritage and DNA with a project that brings together the old and the new. Under the guidance of CEO Riccardo Sciutto, Sergio Rossi has a new motto; “think heritage, play digital” as it starts a new chapter that focuses on the company’s most genuine values of cult craftsmanship and devotion to tradition.

the world to experience this traditional Italian craft which soon overtook farming as the most popular industry in the region. Soon, San Mauro Pascoli became a large crafts centre that specialised in the making of sandals. This signalled the beginning of high end women’s footwear being made in the village. The industry grew and grew, with the first industrial-sized shoe factory; Mir Mar opening in 1958. Around the same time Sergio Rossi took over his father’s shoemaking business and began to develop this family brand into what we know it as today.

The Living Heritage project, which celebrates the history Sergio Rossi while embracing its position today, plays a key role in reviving the brand. Through recovering its history and heritage, Sergio Rossi has found a new inspiration for the creative and manufacturing processes. Through detailed research, the brand was able to create a physical and digital archive which has become the ongoing inspiration and a source of creativity for Sergio Rossi, allowing the shoemaker to share the memory of its founder and its history.

Under the guidance of new CEO Riccardo Sciutto, in 2017 Sergio Rossi began looking back at this history. This was done through analysing the heritage and sourcing original shoe models and other accessories produced by the house over a sixty year period, some dating back as far as the 1940s. The Italian shoe manufacturer restored, photographed, stored and catalogued some 3,250 vintage pairs and now there are 6,000 shoes and other accessories archived in a specially dedicated space at the brands new manufacturer in San Mauro Pascoli. At the same time over two thousand documents - drawings, lookbooks, advertising and editorial images - have been recovered and digitised. This project became known as The Living Heritage.

The history of the shoemaker is very closely linked to the history of San Mauro Pascoli. This small village in Emilia Romagna in Northern Italy was in a region that became known for its footwear industry after World War Two. The success of local cobblers working around villages and farms meant people travelled from all across

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The Living Heritage was imagined in collaboration with the Beyond Heritage team, which allowed for the creation of a physical Historic Archive (product and iconography), a digital platform dedicated to product history and the brand’s image, and an exhibition showing for the first time, the history of Sergio Rossi along a functional and emotional path. Visitors to the exhibition will be guided through an immersive experience in order to offer an interpretation of the world and the style of Sergio Rossi.

“To go back to the origins in a modern way, we worked on the product and spotlighted our historical assets, such as the San Mauro Pascoli factory, where our production is located, and this allows us to be quick and responsive towards the changing demands of the market.” Riccardo Sciutto, CEO of the Sergio Rossi Group

The exhibition is split into three categories. The first, The Gallery of Lasts, discovers the history of the brand reinterpreted through its distinguishing element: the last – a crucial wooden shape that takes shape during the development of a new shoe creation. The Living Archive is the heart of the project, where the vintage collection is conserved – but mainly a “living” area for consultation, research and work. In a custom-designed space visitors will find some of the most iconic shoes and packaging of Sergio Rossi’s history. The selection of styles does not follow chronological order but rather spotlights the values at the base of Sergio Rossi’s success: creativity and material research, imagination and innovation, attention towards shape and top quality. The drawers preserve the so-called “semi-finished” products and, specifically, the heel collection as well as the rich sampling of embroidery on fabric and leather, conserved over the years with passion and voluntary dedication, by the craftspeople. The Living Emotions section is an area with a strong visual and emotional impact showing the most iconic models and themes that have always represented the different aspects of the brand. Thi is where the world of Sergio Rossi can be experienced. The beauty of the models is displayed, leading the visitor to discover the identity of the brand - interacting with the varying shapes and materials that reveal four themes. A wall projection lets visitors discover and relive the most beautiful advertising shots and fashion shoots by famous photographers from the 60s to today and introduces the latest theme, which is also at the base of the Heritage project, namely the “Rebirth” of the brand.

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“Since the very beginning of our industrial activities, we focused all our efforts on shape: a key element of the shoe... After the shape, the other two important components completing the structure of a successful shoe are: style and quality. Once the three ingredients are perfectly dened, success is just a simple and logical consequence”. Sergio Rossi, 1988

Sergio Rossi’s current collections return to the brand’s essence by examining the archive and the brand’s pure DNA all the while restyling products according to contemporary codes. The recently introduced sr1 collection is the symbol of a new beginning, an act of devotion to brand’s heritage projected into the future.

“Today the most important thing we are all looking for is an emotional connection and a chance to experience the lifestyle behind the brands we love. This is why I am so keen at Sergio Rossi on creating real Moments Of Wonder in everything we do. It is crucial to stay true to the DNA of the brand and to the vision of its founder, which has historically always been very close to what a woman really needs and wants, with a product designed for the woman of today.” Riccardo Sciutto, CEO of the Sergio Rossi Group.

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INTERVIEW

MEDITERRANEAN FLAIR FASHION DESIGNER LORENA RIVERO BRINGS HER BRAND LORRIVE TO THE MIDDLE EAST

talian-born fashion brand LORRIVE is the brainchild of designer Lorena Rivero, so as she brings her stunning label to the region, we sit down with Rivero to discover more about the clothing line, her earliest fashion memories and the designer’s biggest achievement to date.

have an eye for the best designs, designs we incorporate to their high-standard tastes. I do not speak from a place of unfamiliarity. Most of the months of the year I live in Dubai. A fashion-capital where only the highest-quality succeeds. My own son calls this country his home and my exposure to Arab culture has given me a great appreciation for its values. An appreciation that has inspired our company to produce such elegant styles for the powerful Arab women.

Born with the influence of the five natural elements, Italian fashion label LORRIVE combines lightweight fabrics with vibrant amethyst tones to produce feminine pieces that have a touch of glamour.

What is your first fashion memory? With a focus on cocktail dresses, LORRIVE’s ready-to-wear pieces comprise of figure-hugging pieces that complement the female form. Rich jewel tones are elegant and striking and the use of real amethyst takes the pieces to another level. Lace, embellishment and print details all add a touch of elegance.

My first fashion memory was one I thank a special woman in my life for. It happened when I was 12 years old and was taken by my aunt to my first ever fashion show. Looking at the women, with all their confidence and elegance, I could not avoid being inspired. They came from different communities, they had their special beauties, and every single one possessed their own history. With this inspiration how could I do anything except aspire to take on a career in fashion? How could I do anything except create these fantastic pieces that highlight a woman’s background, showcase their exceptional beauty; and most importantly, tell their amazing stories.

Aside from evening wear, LORRIVE also features an extensive swimwear and lingerie collection. Each piece is designed to signify power and make the wearer feel her absolute best. Each piece is made in Italy under the guidance of Lorena Rivero. The French entrepreneur has a vision to empower women worldwide with the pieces she creates, bringing out the inner strength of each woman.

What do you consider your biggest achievement to date?

Spending many months of the year in Dubai, Rivero has a strong connection to the region and wants to spread the ethos of her brand within the Middle East. Here we meet with Rivero to discover her vision for LORRIVE and what inspires her to create her pieces.

Supporting my family and the passion I put into my business. I am proud of taking care of my family and children, instilling the best values and discipline into the people I love and who are my life. All of this in tandem with running a successful business and the community around it. I don’t prioritize one over the other and both sustain the well-being of each other. My greatest joy is seeing successful women all around the world take pride in my fashion, the designs that were inspired by my family at home and made into reality by my family at work.

Can you tell us a little about your brand and what makes it unique? I can actually tell you a lot about our brand and what makes it exceptional in the market. LORRIVE thrives on the energy within its work. We use the amethyst stone sourced straight from Uruguay. It’s a beautiful gem that is a source of comfort to whoever wears it as we believe it produces positive energy. Moreover, with the way we incorporate it into our elegant designs, the result is a unique layout best made to work in synergy with the body’s natural energies. If I may also add, the end-result of our work is something beautiful. A piece of art that will turn heads in any room.

What has been your biggest challenge? Where do I begin? This industry and business has so many challenges. Challenges I have already overcome, and challenges yet to come, only to be overcome like the others. But the biggest I would say is finding the right balance between taking care of my family and developing my business. It has not always been easy and still isn’t in some ways. Being a perfectionist and always striving for innovation, it was not so simple to manage a life at home and another at work. But I had the best team behind me; my children. They always supported and believed in me, knowing that I was capable of great success. With such love, how could I say no to achieving only the best? And with such precious people how can I do anything except persevere and grow?

How do you think it will translate to the Middle-Eastern clientele? Simply put? Quite well! The Middle East is a place of luxury, beauty, and elegance. Being literally the middle of the world, its women are at the centre of all fashion. They know art when they see it and

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INTERVIEW

all for my loved ones. For them I excel in the work I produce and give pride in the accomplishments I am collecting. When you keep your family first in the business world, there is nothing you won’t do to ensure that you will do the best to provide for them. And what better way is there to provide for them than an extremely successful business? A company that will cater to their needs, show them the values of hard work, and encourage the formation of their successes. Money, luxury, fame; these are not the symbols of success but simple add-ons. The symbol of success is the impact your work has had on your family’s lives and others as well.

What would you still like to achieve? So much, but for now my goal is to reach women on an international scale. Have my fashion worn by confident ladies in all the contingents and have my brand recognized in the most elegant of groups. I will get there with the support of my family, and the work of my team. Each step taken today and going forward will be strategic, effective, and well-coordinated. There will be no mistakes or challenges that we cannot overcome and if any are made we will simply overcome them. This is because we believe that the positive energy given out by amethysts in our designs need to be shared and experienced. I know we will be the ones to achieve this.

If you could give your younger self one piece of advice, what would it be?

You travel a lot, what do you think travelling adds to your character?

When I was younger I always felt the pressure to conform and to follow others if I wanted to be successful. I compared myself to other styles and tried to come up with a blueprint for success. But now I have learned important wisdom from my years of success and of developing my business. Be natural, spontaneous, elegant. Be yourself. Others have made their own roads to good fortune, and you will not get much aside from leftovers by following them. All that you need is already in your hands. So be yourself, develop yourself, market yourself, and take pride in yourself. Do this, and others will follow.

Travelling is a wonderful thing. It exposes you to all the cultures and people of the world, while still keeping you connected to home. You experience new insights, gain new mindsets, and see life from the eyes of many. From travelling I lose all possible limits on my creativity and instead develop new perspectives. It fills me with positive energy that I am ready to share with the world around me. Moreover, visiting all these places allows me to build deep friendships and meaningful connections with communities I would never have had the privilege of knowing personally without travel.

How would you describe your design style? I am most fortunate that in the United Arab Emirates many cultures are brought together to relish the opportunities the country offers. But that still does not stop me from travelling the world whenever I can.

I do not have one fixed style, I change my style 2-3 times per day depending on what I am taking inspiration from. To have a fixed

style is very plain in my view, you have to spice it up from time to time. Instead what I have is a fixed standard. I only make the most stunning pieces, the ones that will have heads turning when you walk in the room and turning when you leave. But that’s not enough, my works also have to give out positive energy, they have to have a feeling of elegance and happiness. When people look at you, I am making sure that their days have been brightened and their minds occupied. These are the standards I stand by for the many styles I create.

Who is the person that inspires you the most? There is not just one, but many. I draw most of my inspiration from the elegant women of the 60’s 70’s and 80’s. Marilyn Monroe with her eye-catching yet innovative sense of fashion that inspires many women today. Bridgette Bardot and her iconic styles, considered too much by the society of her time but extremely beautiful today. And of course, Sophia Loren with her stunning beauty that captivated many. These are the incredible women I look up to, and these are the women who serve as an inspiration for all my work. They were not just beautiful, but intelligent. Not just stylish, but successful. Not lucky at all, but secured their fame. I dream to inspire the Marilyns, Bridgettes, and Sophias of tomorrow.

What do you say no to? Many things. Mostly vulgar ideas and crude behavior. In the world of fashion and with success, you will always have those who do not see the beauty and the elegance behind the styles this industry produces. Instead they encourage the more shallow aspects of this field. I will never compromise beauty just to have a gimmick and I will never introduce such low standards simply to turn over more inventory. The styles I produce are for the women first. They give confidence, they create pride, and they give off such positive energy. Everyone else can admire and appreciate, but when a strong woman puts on one of my pieces, it is her and the confidence that comes from within herself. No one else is involved; however, they are permitted to be inspired.

What is your personal motto? A woman has to always smile. To some it may not seem like such an inspiring statement, but to me it is my life rule. The world is already so full of stress and complications. The same problems that lead many to become sad. As women, we do not let the negatives of the world become the negatives of our lives. We keep our heads up and our smiles strong, showing everyone our strength and resilience. We exude positive energy with our work and creations, and in doing so, bring up the men in our lives who also deal with the same stresses and suffer the same problems. If the world gives me one problem, I’ll give it several solutions, all with a smile on my face.

How do you want the world to remember you? I would like people to remember me as a positive person who was full of goodenergy. Someone driven who was able to transfer both this energy and drive through the work I have done and the designs I created. Positive impacts have inspired me and that is what I wish to leave behind.

What is your professional motto? My professional motto may seem quite the opposite, but it is “keep family first”. When I started my company, I did so knowing it was

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HIS STYLE

Fall/Winter 2019-2020

Menswear

Trends

As men’s fashion weeks continue to set the tone for the upcoming season we discover the latest trends and looks in menswear that will define the coming months

Dior Men F/W 2019-20

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HIS STYLE

ALPINE ADVENTURE Inspired by ski seasons in Aspen add elements of winter sport attire to your wardrobe. Whether it’s a fairisle print jumper, winged hat or double layered coat. You’ll need to turn up the AC for this one however!

VALENTINO

PRADA

DIOR MEN

FEELING COSY Wrap up in oversized looks that will bring the warmth of a cosy winter’s day. Imagine sitting by a log fire when it’s cold outside – absolute bliss. Invest in chunky knits wraparound scarves and oversized jackets.

VALENTINO

BERLUTI

DUNHILL

ANIMAL INSTINCT

LOVE LEATHER All over leather looks are wearable for just about any man. While black is the simplest way to leather, why not experiment with colour as seen on the runway at Givenchy and Dunhill.

From subtle zebra at Dior Men to full on leopard at Versace, there was plenty of animal print on the runway. Wear with simple staples to complete the look.

CELINE

VERSACE

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HIS STYLE

MEN IN BLACK

POP OF PINK

With monochrome looks inspired by the classic film, designers took inspiration from Men in Black for this chic look.

Add some colour to your winter wardrobe with splashes of magenta and fuchsia as seen on the runway at Versace, BOSS and Alexander McQueen.

CELINE

DUNHILL

BOSS

SAINT LAURENT

VALENTINO

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ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

MUTED TUNES

PREP SCHOOL

Soft tones of beige, grey and pastel shades made for easy-on-the-eye ensembles which will be perfect for the grey skies of autumn.

Transport back to you high school days with logo jumpers, geek style sunglasses and oversized trousers.

LUIS VUITTON

VERSACE

DOLCE & GABBANA

PRADA

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COOL RIDER

DISCOVER THE AUTUMN/WINTER 2019 COLLECTION BY ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA XXX, A COOL MIX OF INNOVATION AND STYLE Starring Professional Skateboarder Ivan Federico Concept Creation: Lara Mansour Sawaya Photography: Pasquale Abbattista Styling and Direction: Lindsay Judge Shot on location in London, England

ON SET WITH IVAN FEDERICO I

van Federico is Italy’s name to know in the skateboarding world. At just 20 years old he has already won countless awards for his country and is on his way to the Olympics in 2020. He has been skating in his small Italian neighbourhood since he was a young boy and thanks his mum (who travels everywhere with him) for supporting him to achieve his dream. As well as being an avid skater, Federico is a strong supporter of fashion and his unique style has already got him noticed in fashion’s luxury circuit. Teaming up with Ermenegildo Zegna to present the fall/winter couture collection in this editorial shoot was the perfect pairing. Federico possesses the cool elegance that the brand is all about and his is only just beginning. Here we get to know this promising young man a little better as he talks us through his inspiration and dreams of making it to The Olympics. How has skateboarding been a part of your life since you were a child? Like every kid, all I wanted is to have fun. I used to play video games like Tony Hawk Pro Skater and I wanted to be like him, he was my first hero. What has your biggest achievement been so far? Getting to the point I am at now, but I don't feel totally fulfilled yet. What is your is your biggest motivation? To represent Italy in The Olympics and on the long term, live comfortably from skateboarding, but most of all to keep having fun. What would you still like to achieve? So many things, I’d like to push my goals even further, I am a person who is not easily satisfied. How would you describe your style of skating? Technical and smooth. What can you tell us about your training for the Olympics? I've been focusing on it for a few months now. I have an athletic trainer who is helping me become stronger and in better shape.

What does it mean to you to compete for your country? It’s mixed feelings. Representing my country is my motivation, but in Italy skateboarding is still up and coming as a sport and not yet properly supported. You have to leave the country to find challenging skateparks and inspirations. I don't have any proper skatepark for my level of skating near home, so I have to drive around 500km to be able to train seriously. I wish my own nation offered better conditions, not only for myself but for so many kids that could find skateboarding as a healthy way to be educated in sports and allow them to build friendships. But definitely representing my people is something I am enormously proud of. Skateboarding was only recently included in the Olympics - what does this mean for you? For Italian skateboarding it is positive, hopefully it will lead to more awareness and consequently more skateparks. Once people get to know the sport and its environment they will be able to become passionate and it will be a significant evolution for the Italian scene. For me particularly, it is a good chance to evolve my skateboarding and help inspire the future generations. What do you love about Ermenegildo Zegna? I have always liked fashion and Zegna is one of the most iconic Italian style brands in the world and I've always been a fan. It makes me really proud to represent Zegna! What would you say are the common codes between yourself and the brand? The unique and unrepeatable style of Zegna is similar to my skateboarding. My way of skating is recognisable among all. Being unique is perhaps the point that connects us. When you're not competing what's your go-to outfit? A mixture of fashion and streetwear, I always try to mix Zegna garments with my skate clothes, creating an unique blend. You have a distinct sense of fashion style, how would you describe it in one sentence? Unique and innovative.

Lambskin hoodie with graphic lettering intarsia in Warsaw grey with side pockets and elasticated bottom hem, flat front black trousers in wool with diagonal structure. Claudio sneakers. All Ermenegildo Zegna XXX

LEFT IMAGE Wool and cashmere suit in Syberian green, diagonal effect. D-neck in multicolour cashmere with stripes. RIGHT IMAGE Dark brown corduroy Iconic triangle bag. Dark brown peccary gloves. Mid boot with zip. Bag All Ermenegildo Zegna XXX

Single-breasted cotton and wool suit with printed shadow lettering, flat front trousers with side pockets and double hems with zip, shirt with graphic lettering. Metal sunglasses with vicuna lenses. High boot with zip. All Ermenegildo Zegna XXX

LEFT IMAGE One and a half-breasted pure wool black coat, diagonal diamond pattern. Shirt in jacquard with XXX monogram in recycled polyester. Flat front pant with XXX monogram in Syberian green recycled polyester. Grey felted hat with knit cashmere and shearling. Black belt bag. Claudio sneakers RIGHT IMAGE Wool and cashmere macro check bomber jacket and cargo pants in beyus felt and oxblood. Wool shadow printed shirt in Commissar grey, XXX logo on chest. Felted working hat in chocolate plum and sneakers. All Ermenegildo Zegna XXX

LEFT IMAGE Hooded over-the-head Cavallino leather outerwear with coulisse and zip. Cargo pants in chocolate plum with velcro straps. Mid boots with zip. RIGHT IMAGE Wool and cashmere half raglan one and halfbreasted coat in khaki. Solid turtleneck in steppe cashmere and silk. Flat front pant in steppe cotton and wool. Metal chain belt. Gloves in nylon and black lamb. Khaki felted hat with knit cashmere and shearling. Belt bag in citrine. Claudio sneakers. All Ermenegildo Zegna XXX

HIS STYLE

SNEAKER STYLE P

resented for the first time during the autumn/ winter show, the Versace Squalo sneaker is the new must have acessory for winter and is available for both men and women. Designed by Donatella Versace and inspired by the shark, with the idea of moving freely in the oceans, the sport shoe is a style statement but also promotes comfort and is meant for the urban environment of today. The eye-catching bi-color sole is intended to recall a shark’s tooth. Incorporating a wave message into its lines it is reminiscent of the movement of sharks in the ocean to symbolise freedom. The malleolus cushion, meant to protect from all the surroundings, is inspired by the shark’s eye, whose primary use is, in fact, the protection of the animal from any external threat. Details always play an important role: the writing on the toe reads “Love”, the same as the Chain Reaction; the top stitch is used in an effort to both honour the codes and DNA of the brand while injecting subtle Versace visuals into the shoes.

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TIME TO MAKE A CHANGE Worldwide charity auction Only Watch will be making a pit stop in Dubai later this year as it embraks on a global tour

ater this month a world tour will kick off in the lead up to Only Watch, one of the world’s biggest watch charity auctions that will take place this November in Geneva.

Only Watch is a bi-annual exhibition organised under the High Patronage of H.S.H. Prince Albert II of Monaco that this year will see 50 unique watches auctioned to benefit research on Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy. In the build-up to the final event the 50 watches will travel to ten different locations around the world, including to Dubai, as part of a travelling exhibition that will showcase to watch enthusiasts what will be on offer at the grand event.

The world tour will start in Monaco on 25th September and continue to Dubai where the pieces will be exhibited at Christie’s in association with Seddiqi, from 1st to 3rd October. The watch models on offer include pieces from 52 luxury watchmakers including Bovet, Piaget, Zenith, Ulysse Nardin, Jaeger Le Coulture and more. Two duos, De Bethune and Urwerk and L’epée and MB&F, will work together to present one watch. The pieces are one of a kind watches that cannot be brought anywhere else. Each specifically designed piece will showcase some of the world’s best watchmaking. Since its inception in 2005 Only Watch has raised around AED1.4 million, with 100 per cent of the proceeds being directly invested into scientific and medical research on neuromuscular diseases and specifically on Duchenne muscular dystrophy a disease that affects millions of children around the world. The exhibition will be at Christie’s Dubai, on 1st to 3rd, October, Gate Village, Building 5, Podium Level, Dubai International Financial Centre, Dubai.

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EXPLORATION VACHERON CONSTANTIN’S OVERSEAS COLLECTION TAKES US ON A PATH OF EXPLORATION, NEW HEIGHTS AND UNDISCOVERED LANDS

Concept: Lara Mansour Sawaya Photographer: Ziga Michecic Styling and Direction: Lindsay Judge Models: Lucas and Amanda at MMG Models Hair and Make-up: Manuel at Art Factory Location: Al Baleed Resort Salalah by Anantara

Lucas wears: Overseas dual time Vacheron Constantin Shirt, Mr Porter Amanda wears: Overseas self-winding watch Vacheron Constantin Dress, Elisabetta Franchi

LEFT IMAGE: Lucas wears: Overseas dual time,Vacheron Constantin Shirt, Mr Porter RIGHT IMAGE: Amanda wears: Overseas self-winding,Vacheron Constantin Dress, Elisabetta Franchi

Lucas wears: Overseas dual time, Vacheron Constantin Top, COS Amanda wears: Overseas, self-winding, Vacheron Constantin Jumpsuit, Iris & Ink at The Outnet

LEFT IMAGE: Amanda wears: Overseas self-winding, Vacheron Constantin Jumpsuit, Max Mara RIGHT IMAGE: Lucas wears: Overseas self-winding, Vacheron Constantin Top, Philip Plein Trousers, Paul Smith

Amanda wears: Overseas self-winding, Vacheron Constantin Dress and bag, Dolce & Gabbana Lucas wears: Overseas dual time, Vacheron Constantin Shirt and trousers, Mr Porter

LEFT IMAGE: Amanda wears: Overseas self-winding, Vacheron Constantin Dress, Marella Sandals, Tod’s RIGHT IMAGE: Lucas wears: Overseas selfwinding, Vacheron Constantin Shirt and jeans, Dolce & Gabbana Sunglasses, Cartier Shoes, Ermenegildo Zegna XXX

Amanda wears: Overseas self-winding Vacheron Constantin Dress, Marella

Amanda wears: Playsuit, Paule Ka Lucas wears: Overseas dual time, Vacheron Constantin Shirt, Dolce & Gabbana, Trousers, APC at MatchesFashion

LEFT IMAGE: Lucas wears: Overseas chronograph, Vacheron Constantin T-shirt, Hugo Boss RIGHT IMAGE: Amanda wears: Overseas self-winding, Vacheron Constantin Dress, Sportmax

LEFT IMAGE: Lucas wears: Overseas chronograph, Vacheron Constantin T-shirt, Hugo Boss Amanda wears: Overseas self-winding, Vacheron Constantin Dress, Sportmax RIGHT IMAGE: Lucas wears: Overseas chronograph, Vacheron Constantin

Amanda wears: Overseas self-winding, Vacheron Constantin Dress, Sportmax Lucas wears: Overseas Chronograph, Vacheron Constantin T-shirt, Aries at Matches Fashion, Trousers, Z Zegna

INTERVIEW

GUARDING A LEGACY With a rich history to maintain CEO of A. Lange & Söhne Wilhelm Schmid, has a big job on his hands – here he discusses his current challenges and what we have to look forward to from the brand in the coming months

here are few brands in the watch industry that can say they date back as far as 1845 and yet still have such a strong relevance in today’s environment. But A. Lange & Söhne is one of the few that prevails thanks to its clear focus and strong, timeless designs, using some of the world’s best craftsmanship. This year the German-born watchmaker is celebrating the 25th anniversary of its iconic Lange 1 watch with a special edition collection that was presented at SIHH in January. To talk us through this as well as the other launches that are happening throughout 2019 we met with CEO Wilhelm Schmid.

the use of a technicolour blue, it’s printed on the one hand but at the same time we refined the dial in a way using two different levels and surface treatments, and then if you open the case you will see the 25 engraved on the watch. After the engraving we used the same technique that we use to produce the moon disks, so we put the colour blue on and then the engraver polishes the top surface to create a mirror finish, but the blue will stay where the engraving is. So you have a beautiful 25 in blue. We changed the design of the rest of the engraving to accommodate and it looks very nice. The second thing is, believe it or not, ten years of the Zeitwerk watch. In the beginning we thought this would be a one-off watch because it had a very unusual dial design and a very unusual way of giving the time. That also meant that it would be very difficult to develop a family out of it because, if you have to respect and maintain the part on the front that carries the hours and the minutes, how do you get complications from that? So there were a lot of things that went into it.

Schmid took the lead role at the brand in 2011 and has been using his background in sales and marketing to take the watchmaker to the next level, communicating with new clientele while ensuring the existing customer base is maintained. Something that is not an easy challenge in today’s market. When we met with Schmid earlier this year, we found out more about the challenges he faces and what is being done to mark this year of celebration of the Lange 1. What is the story that A Lange & Söhne is telling this year?

Every year there must be new challenges – what is the challenge that A. Lange & Söhne faces now?

There are two main stories. The first is the 25th anniversary of the Lange 1. I’ve said it so many times but it’s still something that is very true; this watch is the backbone of our business. It epitomises what we stand for, probably better than any other watch. It’s now been 25 years and it’s still our best seller – how many watch brands do you know that can say that? Therefore we are also honouring, for the first time, the two gentlemen that were so instrumental not only in the rebirth of our company but also in the development of that specific watch. We are doing so in a special way because the Lange 1 was always all about details, so now we have a limited edition watch to honour these 25 years and this is also all about details. It’s

What we greatly emphasise on is to ensure that younger people specifically are interested in fine watchmaking and that they can find us. Of course, their behaviour of communication differs greatly to the older generation. I do think as an industry we have a duty here because regardless of how old you are, quality, craftsmanship, history and performance will appeal to you. But if you don’t know what’s on offer you will never be a buyer. So we have to ensure that we are visible in the right way and that people can find us if they are looking for us. I think that is a challenge that is not only linked to this year, but it is a journey we started a few years ago and that’s going to continue.

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It’s very challenging when you want to respect a legacy but at the same time be modern and attract a younger clientele – what do you think is the secret formula to doing this?

Where is A. Lange & Söhne on supporting sustainability? The great thing is we have been doing this since 1845, so I don’t need to create stories – it’s what we do. We opened our new manufacturer in 2015 and a lot of our investment went into the way we generate energy. We created a complete CO2 emissionfree building. Even the electricity we buy to run the water pumps, comes from a supplier who only uses renewable energy. So we really try to reduce our carbon footprint wherever possible. That’s the first thing.

I don’t believe there’s a golden recipe that works for everybody. I know for sure, that we don’t have to develop different watches to attract different age groups. That’s not the secret – what’s the difficult part is how to talk to them and communicate with them and how we give them access to the brand – this can be different. It’s not the product that we have to change – the trick is to give access to some people but not annoy others. For us at least, I can say we are confident that we can continue to do what we’re known for, which is pushing boundaries a little bit every year, and here we focus on giving the right sort of environment for whoever wants to come and get to know us better.

The other thing is, we have a school that trains young people to become watchmakers. I still believe that education is probably the best way to give back. This is where we have expenses – we have instructors, we have a building - and this costs money. But I think this is a very sustainable way of giving, and that’s what we’ve been doing for the last 18 years. Actually this is how the whole company started in 1845. So again, we do give back, but it’s really about the sustainability – not just giving money – we make sure that our carbon footprint is as small as possible, and we make sure that what we do will give work to people for the future.

In your opinion what are the prerequisites in creating an object of desire today? It all starts with awareness. If nobody knows, nobody will admire. That’s the first thing. I believe there are different motivations. I do believe that quality will always prevail. And in a world that is full of consumables, where we are so used to throw away things, I think it’s very attractive to offer something that will survive the odds of time. I think that’s at least what we want to create and what we want to stand for. I’m pretty sure if we do the job properly there will be enough people that are attracted to us.

What piece of advice would you give your younger self? Go through the lessons, make your mistakes and learn from them. What do you say no to?

What is your opinion on the discussion of e-commerce vs retail?

What does travel mean to you and how did it shape up who you are today?

I say no to many things. I hate disrespect. I hate discrimination. I have a very geared opinion about where my freedom starts and ends and somebody else’s freedom starts and ends.

It’s not a contradiction in my opinion. If there is a territory that is occupied by the customer it must be explored. Today, at least in our segment, I still see that people do their research online but then, what I call the last metre, is a very physical interaction in a physical world. Why? Because it adds value. You meet someone who you trust, who helps you, someone you can approach if there’s a problem. These are all things that add value to the customer relationship. If you don’t do that job, you’ll be replaced by something. Either by e-commerce or by somebody else because they can provide what the customer has requested. At the moment I am not seeing a huge change in requests for e-commerce at our price level. We are prepared, but I don’t see it as a necessity yet.

I like being in places because I get to know so many different cultures and people and that’s something that’s a source of energy and knowledge. There is hardly a day that I go to bed and don’t feel a little bit richer than I did in the morning – I don’t mean richer in a monetary way, but in the way that I’ve learnt something that I didn’t already know in the morning or I’ve had a new experience. In that regard, I’m very privileged. Travelling in itself – sitting in planes, taxis etc – I’m reaching my limits! What is your biggest achievement so far? I am happily married and I have two wonderful children. What is a dream you would still like to fulfil? Only one?! My Dad once said ‘be careful with dreams when they are fulfilled.’ So I keep dreaming and I realise that my dreams do change, which is good. Complete the sentence; I am happy when… I’m with my family. How would you like the world to remember you? I don’t have an idea of what I should be known for. I try my best every day and I’m very happy with what I’m doing. What has been your biggest challenge and how did you overcome it? I would struggle with defining the biggest challenge because there have been many challenges in my life and at that moment it seemed to be the biggest challenge. I always tell myself if I face a challenge work through it. What is your professional motto? Be true to yourself. Interviewed by Lara Mansour Sawaya

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HIGH VOLTAGE Unleash your creativity with the Excalibur Huracán by Roger Dubuis; pushing the technological barriers of watchmaking with a design that expresses individual style and personality Photography: Ziga Mihelcic Styling and Direction: Lindsay Judge Grooming: Meagan at Art Factory Model: Rayan at Wilhelmina Dubai

Excalibur Huracán, Roger Dubuis Jacket, T-shirt and Trousers, Hugo BOSS

Excalibur Huracán, Performante, Roger Dubuis Jacket, Fendi

Excalibur Huracán, Roger Dubuis Jacket, Hugo BOSS

Excalibur Huracán, Roger Dubuis Jumper Helmut Lang at Bloomingdale’s Dubai

Excalibur Huracán Performante, Roger Dubuis T-shirt, Hugo BOSS

INTERVIEW

F IS FOR FOREVER

FENDI WATCHES PRESENTS THE FOREVER FENDI TIMEPIECE, A CREATION THAT BRINGS TOGETHER THE PAST, PRESENT AND FUTURE OF THE HOUSE. HERE WE DISCOVER WITH CEO AND CHAIRMAN SERGE BRUNSCHWIG WHAT THIS LATEST LAUNCH MEANS FOR THE FUTURE OF THE DIVISION AND THE HOUSE AS A WHOLE

endi Watches presented its latest launch the Forever Fendi watch in Rome earlier this year. This contemporary yet sophisticated timepiece perfectly represents the brand with the instantly recognisable FF logo, created from links on the strap and is elegantly finished with diamonds and mother-of-pearl. Forever Fendi is a tribute to the brand’s heritage and sits perfectly with the image of the house overall. While the watch is a statementmaker it has a soft and feminine side thanks to the polished lacquer and round curves that perfectly catch the light.

What do you think is a challenge you face with Fendi Watches? I think the challenge is to try to connect and produce something that’s much closer to our heart and I think this watch will produce fantastic results. Fendi Watches will have all the authenticity of a Fendi product. The universe of Fendi is proud and we must be sure to communicate this. The success of the Fendi Policromia is thanks to the bespoke option – to what extent do you think bespoke is relevant in the industry?

The watch was presented in Fendi’s home city of Rome earlier this year and was accompanied by a unique exhibition. The Shape of Water installation saw bespoke fountains created by designer Sabine Marcelis. Taking inspiration from, and pursuing the Design Miami project, the fountains and images were showcased with a modern and fresh take on the relationship between Fendi and Rome, as well as two of the most iconic symbols of the Maison – the FF logo and Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana – using water, an element that Fendi cherishes the most, as a design tool. Representing the fusion between the historical, creative and aesthetic legacy of Fendi, these special installations became the perfect frame to unveil the new collection.

I think it’s super relevant and I think we are really the leaders in it – we do it for bags, furs and watches. I think it’s great to have this expertise in watches. Policromia is Fendi's baby and we are super happy that it’s now a member of the family, and yes, it’s definitely something that we want to push. If you were to create your own Policromia watch, how would it look? If I had to design my own watch, my favourite colour would be red which is very inspiring for me. I think I would marry it with Fendi colours, maybe earthy colours, that would be quite beautiful. I would play with brown and all those earthy tones.

Presenting the Forever Fendi collection at the event was Fendi CEO and Chairman Serge Brunschwig. Brunschwig joined Fendi just over a year ago and was tasked with finding a way to bring the brand into the future whilst still retaining its legacy and heritage. Here we discuss the challenges he faces with Fendi Watches and the outlook for the future of the brand as a whole.

Fendi is celebrating the 20th anniversary of the Baguette this year - What else is coming up for the house during the rest of 2019?

What’s the message that Fendi is giving with Forever Fendi?

2019 started with the emphasis on the Baguette. We had a lot of campaigns and films and that will continue with more surprises. The Baguette is incredible and the response to what we have done this year has been great so far. We are in a stock shortage already in some of the designs! The Peekaboo will also continue its success and will remain a priority for us. We are one of the few houses to have two iconic bags which is a dream come true.

I think it’s super important to reaffirm that this watch is a real watch and that it is really part of Fendi. There is an emphasis on the word ‘real’ and we are mixing all the elements together. It’s our first time to do a presentation like this, and to me it made no sense to do anything else. We saw the birth of the product and clearly it looked simple but refined and really expressed the message of the brand.

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What is there you still want to achieve at Fendi that you haven’t done yet? I think we have built a lot of foundations in the past year including the revival of the organisation. There is a lot of new blood circulating within the company which is superb. I think I’m still a bit impatient to see our global performance. Then of course we have the new projects which will be the opening of extraordinary flagship stores and fantastic website – all of these are things that are going to make statements in the future. What one piece of advice would you give your younger self? To believe in yourself even more. At some point you discover your strengths and it would have been great to discover them a bit earlier! What do you say no to? To dishonesty and conflicts.

How would you describe Fendi in one word? Passion. Are you reading a book at the moment? Yes I am. It’s the story of a French journalist who escaped alive and wounded from the Charlie Hebdo magazine attack in Paris – it’s an incredible story. The way he recovered and found life again – it’s stunning. It’s called Le Lambeau by Philippe Lançon. What is your personal motto? Have faith. How would you like the world to remember you? As a giving person. Interviewed by Lara Mansour Sawaya.

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SUN, SEA & SURF ENCOMPASSING BREITLING’S SEA ELEMENT, THE SUPER OCEAN IS REDEFINING THE CLASSIC DIVING WATCH AND DEVELOPING A UNIQUE FOLLOWING AMONG MEN AND WOMEN WHO ENJOY AN ACTIVE LIFESTYLE Concept Creation: Lara Mansour Sawaya Photographer: Fares Jammal Styling and Direction: Lindsay Judge Hair: Ivan at Velvet Management Make-up: Bohdana at Velvet Management Location: Batroun, Lebanon

Featuring Emerging Surﬁng Talent Yasmiine Al Hasan

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Breitling Superocean II 36 Hurricane White, with Rubber Strap

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LEFT IMAGE: Superocean II 36 Hurricane White, with Rubber Strap RIGHT IMAGE: Superocean Automatic 36 in Steel - Blue With Rubber Strap All Breitling

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Breitling Superocean Automatic 36 in Steel - Blue with Rubber Strap

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Breitling Superocean II 36 Steel Mariner Blue with Rubber Strap

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Breitling Superocean II 36 Mariner Blue with Rubber Strap

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LEFT IMAGE: Superocean II 36 Mariner Blue with Rubber Strap RIGHT IMAGE: Superocean II 36 in Steel Black All Breitling

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Breitling Superocean II 36 in Steel Black

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JEWELLERY

Inspired by the architechture and culture of Paris, Boucheron's new high jewellery collection explores fresh perspectives with pieces inspired by the city's iconic landmarks. Stones are set to mirror the image of the Grand Palais from above, while others capture the cobbled stones of the Place Vendome, the heart of the house, and the magical streets of the French capital. Dream of beautiful summer evenings and romantic days with these delicately handcrafted pieces.

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GEM DIOR

THE NEW DIOR HIGH JEWELLERY COLLECTION MARKS THE BRAND'S 20TH ANNIVERSARY OF JEWELLERY PRODUCTION

ior Joaillerie Creative Director Victoire de Castellane has drawn inspiration from the Dior spirit and all of her collections since the beginning, to bring to life poetical and whimsical pieces that feature the most exquisite coloured stones. The Gem Dior collection is a declaration of love for gemstones and their beautiful colours and infinite hues glorified by intense monochromes and subtle shadings or by virtuoso visual impact. Exquisite jewels featuring diamond, ruby, spessartite garnet, pink sapphire, tsavorite, grenadine or cobalt blue spinel, tanzanite, Paraiba-type tourmaline are harmonized with carefully cut shapes including baguette, square, pea, marquise, cushion and oval. Stones are overlaid in a complex fashion that conceals their settings and makes the pieces look even more flawless.

The collection consists of ninety nine pieces – the biggest by far of any of the house’s high jewellery collections. The pieces are abstract yet geometric and express Victoire de Castellane’s universe and vision with their poetic settings, asymmetrical effects creative colourways and futurism. She spoke of the collection; "it’s as if I had put all my collections from the past twenty years into a shaker and what popped out were freeze-frames and very large pixelized close-ups, she explains. In the end, what’s left is material and colour.” She goes on to describe the rings to be “like a little packet of stones that have been placed on the finger. A throw of stones like a throw of the dice. They topple over one another and wedge together to create effects of volume and relief just like geological strata or certain minerals such as pyrite, which have very geometric constructions.” Behind this tribute to the gemstone is the exceptional know-how of the craftsman, stone cutters and polishers that come together to create these elegant pieces. The collection shows the finest in jewellery creation and highlights the attention to detail that goes into the production of high jewellery pieces.

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HOLLYWOOD GLAMOUR Discover the beauty of timeless elegance with the Bvlgari Cinemagia High Jewellery Collection. Celebrating the magic of cinema these statement pieces are made with the finest in craftsmanship and reflect the creativity that exists at the heart of film Photographer; Ziga Mihelcic Styling and Direction: Lindsay Judge Hair and make-up: Manuel Losada Model: Karina at Wilhelmina Dubai Location: Queen Elizabeth II - Dubai

Necklace in pink Gold with Onyx and Mother of Pearl, round Emeralds and Sapphires, pave-set of Diamonds and fancy intense yellow Diamonds, Mandarin Garnets and Rubies. Earrings in pink Gold with 1 round Emerald and Sapphire, pave-set of Diamonds and Fancy intense yellow Diamonds, Mandarin Garnets and Rubies. All Bvlgari Dress, Amur at Bloomingdale’s Dubai

Diva’s Dream Tourbillon Watch. 37mm white Gold case with 76 brillant-cut Diamonds. Skeleton dial decorated with a hand painted motif of peacock and stars. Pink Gold skeleton tourbillon movement. Total of 127 Diamonds. Limited edition of 50 All Bvlgari Dress, Milly

Necklace in pink Gold with Malachite and wood inserts, cushion shaped pink Tourmalines and pave-set Diamonds. All Bvlgari Dress with belt, Sachin + Babi at Etoile La Boutique

Necklace in yellow Gold with Chrysoprases, Amethyst and pink Tourmaline beads. Pave-set Diamonds, marquise and brilliant Diamonds cut. Serpenti Twist Your Time Watch in rose Gold and Diamonds with rose Gold interchangeable bracelet composed of four tiny chains. Quartz movement. All Bvlgari Dress, Bazza Alzouman

Necklace in white Gold with Mother of Pearl, Rubellite beads, pear shapes Sapphires, Emeralds and Diamonds All Bvlgari

Necklace in white Gold with Rubellite, yellow Tourmaline, Amethyst, Citrine, Tanzanite, Topaz, South Sea cultured Pearls and Diamonds.

Serpenti Sedutori Watch in pink Gold and Diamonds. Quartz movement All Bvlgari Dress, Oscar de la Renta

Earrings in pink Gold with pink Tourmanlines, Aquamarines, Tanzanites, beads of Emeralds and Diamonds All Bvlgari Dress, Oscar de la Renta

Necklace and Earrings in white Gold with Calcedony and Lapis Lazulis, round Sapphires and Diamonds. All Bvlgari Dress, available at Esposa Privé

INTERVIEW

A NEW ERA

VALERIE MESSIKA DISCUSSES THE WAYS THE LUXURY JEWELLERY MARKET IS ADAPTING TO A NEW GENERATION OF CONSUMERS

he recent Arab Luxury World Summit in Dubai had a strong focus on digital transformation and how it is affecting luxury companies in today’s market. The sector is going through a big change as new technology comes into play and a generational switch in consumer behaviour is resulting in a necessary overhaul of business models. Businesses must adapt to these changes quickly in order to survive in the competitive environment. Of course many will fail, but there will also be those who come out as leaders in this new era of the market.

as I want them to discover the world and share it with them, much like my experience when growing up. What makes your brand unique? When I launched my brand it was to break the codes of tradition in the diamond world. What people love about Messika is the fact that you can wear diamond jewellery every day and be cool, sexy and feminine all at the same time. It brings you light and completes your outfit. It’s more about having an allure or attitude, whereas traditional jewellery is more about heritage, something that you have for a special occasion. So I think that we break this code and we bring more of a fashion vibe to the diamond world and this is what makes people love the brand.

One of those leading the change is Valerie Messika. The Founder and Creative Director of Messika Paris started her brand in 2000 and it has become one of the fastest growing luxury jewellery brands in the world. Messika’s unique approach to jewellery design makes it feminine yet cool in a market that is often saturated with more classic, traditional pieces. This has seen Messika’s designs attract the attention of a young market including many celebrities who have helped to grow the brand’s profile.

How are new technologies revolutionising the face of your brand? For a brand like Messika that is luxury but also very contemporary and modern, we need to be constantly updating ourselves with new technology. Instagram for example is very strong for us because it is a new way of having a connection with our consumers. You can show them things that ten years ago you couldn’t. For a brand like Messika there is really an obligation to be at the forefront of using new technology.

As Valerie Messika visits the Middle East she discusses with A&E how the brand has grown so quickly and the ways in which it has adapted to meet the needs of today’s market and ensured the continual growth of the company. How has your experience being here in Dubai for Arab Luxury World been?

What do you do to ensure your brand stands out amongst others?

It’s a good experience. I’m challenging myself because I’m not great at speaking in front of a lot of people but it was a great opportunity and more of a friendly conversation so that was quite easy to be honest. I feel that there is a lot of warmth and love for the brand in the region. It’s a great region for Messika because it was the first place I opened a store outside of Europe and we are opening more stores here so it is a place that is really special to me.

My strategy is to always be in the mind of the people who are stylish. We are very lucky in the way that stylists love Messika because they think it’s very delicate and also very cool. We have a cool attitude and people love that. What is very powerful for the brand is that so many different types of women love wearing Messika because it gives them so many occasions to embody the brand in different ways. Which is a big gift for me.

What does luxury mean to you and your brand?

What aspects of the business did you focus on at the Arab Luxury World Summit?

There are so many different meanings behind luxury. When I talk about luxury for my brand it is about details. Details are very important in the luxury industry as people pay a lot of attention to them in the conception of the jewellery and the way it is presented in the stores. They are very sensitive to this and I think it is part of being a luxury brand. For me as a person, luxury is the freedom to do whatever I love during the day. My luxury is doing the thing that is my passion and combining it with the dedication to my children while developing my brand all over the world. I travel with them

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I think what I wanted to express was how such a young brand can have its own place in an industry that's so traditional. I wanted to express the way we just came up in an empty space in the luxury jewellery world and we are becoming a small phenomenon, gaining a legacy in such a short time. I think it is because we knew what women were expecting of the industry.

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What are the challenges you are facing when it comes to implementing the right technologies to reach your customers? We always need to be up to date. Things are moving so fast that even something that was up to date a year ago is out of date now. There are so many things that we need to keep up with and this is very challenging for the brand. At the same time we are still developing Messika and we are moving so fast – we are over 200 people now – so the growth is so fast and we need to continue to keep in line with the right trends, in the right direction and develop throughout the world. That for me is a big challenge and probably one of the most complicated parts in my business career. In your opinion what kind of brands will survive in this digital transformation? If you are not digital you cannot survive today because quite simply, the customers won’t see you. Customers are seeing so many brands and images and you can see from the way people use their phones, they see thousands of images every day. So we have to catch the right person in the right moment which is not always easy. The time concentration of people is decreasing so we have to change all of our communication to fit according to this and think in a totally different way. If you don’t adapt you won’t survive.

Do you think that globalisation and economic trends affect the luxury concept of the brand?

that is not respecting myself or it is becoming dangerous for me or my family. At that stage I become clear about saying no.

No because the success of Messkia is only one concept. Our concept is diamonds and being feminine and having an attitude. Whereas diamonds used to be a way to say to others how much money you have – the bigger the diamond would signify how rich you are, Messika is not about that, it’s about style, femininity and selfconfidence. When I am opening in the Middle East for example, I do try to create some products just for that region and the same for the United States or Europe. In any communication around the world you have to respect the tradition of the countries and this is what I love most about my job – understanding and respecting all the different cultures. I’m building my company very instinctively which gives me the right to adapt myself. The world is changing so fast that you can easily make mistakes, so I don’t plan too far ahead.

What are you working on for the coming year? We are opening in China which is really big, more than ten boutiques which is a huge development for us. My team is so exhausted from this fast development. I love them so much and I have to say thank you to them because they are doing their best, under pressure but full of love. Asia is a big challenge for me. I also have a new advertising campaign launching this month which will be another step forward in terms of the message we are trying to give. What is a book you’ve read that inspired you? The Little Prince. It is such a beautiful story with so many messages within it. My favourite message from the book is ‘you see not with your eyes but with your heart’.

What do you say no to?

Interviewed By Ruba Nesly

I’m very bad at saying no, I’m always saying yes! I am a very passionate person so when I do say no it is because it is something

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INTERVIEW

FIERCE & FEMININE AS THE FOUNDER OF AKILLIS, CAROLINE GASPARD IS HOPING TO CAPTURE THE SPECIAL MOMENTS IN A WOMAN’S LIFE WITH HER UNUSUAL CREATIONS. HERE SHE DISCUSSES THE VISION OF HER BRAND AND THE PLANS FOR EXPANSION IN THE MIDDLE EAST

rom a young age Caroline Gaspard knew she had a passion for all things jewellery and had a dream of creating her own unique style. When she unveiled her first collection for Akillis, she was just 25 years old and she was excited to bring something different to the market, combining the experimentation of fashion jewellery with the elegance and exclusivity of high jewellery. Twelve years on, her own line has grown and grown, and as Gaspard continues to develop new designs and stories, we look forward to seeing much more of her brand in the region.

What’s your most precious piece of jewellery? I’m actually wearing it today. It’s my Heartbeat earrings and ring with Paraiba stones which were a present from my husband for the birth of our kids. What do you think you’ve learnt since you first launched Akillis? I’ve learnt a lot! I think you must believe in your dreams and if you work very hard, you will succeed.

Here, Gaspard explains how each piece she designs is in some way a reflection of an aspect of her identity as a free-spirited woman, who stands outside convention and dares to live differently. She talks us through some of the personalities she likes to evoke through her jewellery and explains how her mother’s love of gemstones inspired her latest collections.

How important is storytelling in the pieces you create? It’s really part of the DNA of the brand. When I was a student I looked into why people buy luxury goods and in fact, it is to show a status to other people. So I thought – OK, so jewellery should be a way to show our state of mind and emotions. Every day you want to play a role and I wanted to create pieces to play these roles. For me, storytelling through a piece of jewellery is very easy. You have the Heartbeat collection for example – when I saw this Tourmaline Paraiba my heart stopped because it was so beautiful – so I had to create the heartbeat collection from it. I had the idea of bullets because when I lived in Russia it reminded me of a James Bond film so I was connected to bullets and there was so much adrenaline, so I decided to make the Bang Bang collection. The Puzzle collection was easy – the puzzle represents a link in life – the next pieces in your life that lead you to meet new people or experiences. For me it’s easy, there is no need to think about which story we are going to have, it is part of my creation process.

Can you tell us a little bit about your brand and what makes it unique? I created Akillis when I was quite young because I wanted to have something different that was bold and audacious with gold and diamonds. I thought there was already a big offering of classic gold and diamond jewellery and a large offering of fashionable and audacious jewellery, so I wanted to create a brand for young people who are looking for a different style, something that really matches with their own personality. In the morning, as I get dressed with my jewels and my clothes I like to decide who I’m going to be for that day. I could be a James Bond girl – very sexy – and wear the "Bullets" which are made of gold and diamonds. Then the next day I might want to be a very good girl with "Puzzles" or I might want to attract attention so I’ll wear the "Target". It’s not just a collection that looks like any other, it’s something much more personal.

How important do you think it is to preserve traditional craftsmanship? It’s very, very important. We are really investing in it. I actually bought a workshop in Lyon in the South of France. It was a great workshop but after the 2008 crisis they had financial problems. So the owner called me and said; ‘we have a very good relationship, would you be interested in investing in our workshop?’ So we invested in it ten years ago. Now it’s one of the biggest workshops in France.

What is your first memory of jewellery? My first memory of jewellery was with my mother because she really loves stones. A friend of my father used to sell precious stones, so every time my father came home he brought us little presents of small stones – often amethyst or tourmaline not very expensive stones. But it was like a game to create and design a jewel out of it.

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INTERVIEW

What do you love so much about the Guarani stone? The Guarani stones are Tourmaline Paraiba. It’s my favourite stone – I go crazy when I see them! There are some that are more green and others that are more blue – it depends on your taste but I personally love all of them! What do you still want to achieve? I would like to become a major player in the jewellery market. I think there really is a place for a bold jewellery brand. Can we expect to see more of Akillis in The Middle East? The Middle East region is our priority now. We really want to have more points of sale and be present in more countries. Who is the person that inspires you the most? It’s my dream double – so the kind of woman I would like to be. What’s your personal motto? Never give up.

Python Collection

Guarani Collection

What about your professional motto? Never be afraid to dream big and if you work enough you will succeed. Bang Bang Collection

If you could give your younger self one piece of advice what would it be?

What do you think brides are looking for in wedding jewellery?

To be able to compromise more. I am not that kind of person – I have my ideas and I really want them to be how I want, so I think I would tell myself to learn to compromise more.

I think they are looking for something that represents them. It’s the most personal jewel that you will wear your whole life. I really believe in love for the whole life. I think brides should get exactly what they want. I am a big believer in customisation. I have many customers that like really crazy things and it’s always a pleasure to meet them and to really understand what they want and don’t want – it’s a challenge for me.

We heard you had a very extravagant wedding can you tell us about it? I waited eight years to have my wedding so I decided to have eight weddings! My first one was at my parents’ house, just to get registered. It was in the countryside in the north of France with all the people I really love. It was a great moment. The second one was in a castle in the north of Paris. It was like a dream – I even had four white horses and a carriage! Then we had a wedding in Thailand according to Thai tradition. Then I had one in Bali and one in French Polynesia. We then had one in Las Vegas, one in Russia and one in Africa. I think for our ten year anniversary we will do something in Venice.

I think I would be a rock star! How would you describe Akillis in one word? Bold. Interviewed By Lindsay Judge Puzzle Collection

Guarani Collection

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If you weren’t a jewellery designer what would you be doing?

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ACCESSORIES

TOUCH OF COLOUR

The graphic, architectural lines of Tiffany T are reimagined to encircle colourful gemstones on 18k rose gold pendants. Illuminated by a halo of round brilliant diamonds, the black onyx, pink opal and mother-of-pearl become stunning centre pieces to the designs.

iffany’s T collection has been reimagined with a splash of colour this season, bringing the fashion forward collection to the next level with fresh colourways that allow the wearer to express her personality and complement her mood. Tiffany T is known for its bold graphic lines which are brought to life with touches of mother-of-pearl, black onyx, pink opal and turquoise. The collection embodies everything the Tiffany & Co. stands for: freedom, happiness, love and strength. The designs complement each other and can be worn alone or stacked ina stylish way. This modern collection allows to wearer to express herself with understated and elegant yet individual designs.

The iconic Tiffany T wire bracelet is reimagined with statement-making gemstones overlaying the iconic T motif. Mother-of-pearl, turquoise and black onyx accent these 18k yellow gold designs, giving them an updated and modern look and feel.

In these eye-catching Tiffany T square rings, the strong, clean lines of the letter T are overlaid with mother-of-pearl and round brilliant diamonds on an 18k rose gold band, black onyx on an 18k rose gold band and turquoise on an 18k yellow gold band.

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BEAUTY

PRETTY IN PINK When it comes to coating our eyes in colour, a flash of pink isn’t usually the first thing that comes to mind. But for AW19, makeup artists weren’t afraid to play with the feminine hue. And the best thing about the pink eye makeup trend for this season is that it can be worn any way you dare, be it a slight flick or a fully coated lid. Valentino opted for eyeshadow in a softer pink hue, while Guy Larache and Natascha Zinko added a small flash of colour deemed suitable for beginners.

AUTUMN BEAUTY TRENDS FROM THE EVERYDAY TO THE OUTLANDISH, THE AUTUMN/ WINTER RUNWAYS WERE FULL OF A WHOLE HOST OF AESTHETICS. NUDE MAKEUP OVER DEWY SKIN AND DRESSED DOWN SMOKEY EYES FEATURED FOR MORE UNDONE, LAID BACK BEAUTY WHILE BRIGHT PINK EYESHADOW AND GLITTER-ADORNED POUTS WERE A MORE PLAYFUL TAKE

NATASCHA ZINKO

GUY LAROCHE

VALENTINO

GIVENCHY

ELIE SAAB

EARTHY EYES The way to do a smokey eye this season is to follow the less-is-more approach. The look should be undone and worn in for an overall softer, more relaxed finish, skipping mascara for a more gentle finish. Givenchy and Max Mara both softened the look even further by opting for an earthy brown shadow when coating the eyes.

MAX MARA

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BEAUTY

GENTLE FLUSH

DEWY SKIN

While it sometimes may seem juvenile in comparison to its much more worldly big sister – a touch of bronzer – runway models this season have proved that a gentle brush of blush can be sophisticated, too. The girlish beauty trend dominated the Chanel runway, complimenting the chalet-inspired collection. Aigner ditched subtlety when applying the look while D&G worked blush into cheekbones for a sharp silhouette.

Not all makeup styles this need to be so vivacious and colourful. The artists who opted for barely-there makeup this season balanced the look with dewy, radiant skin. Ralph & Russo, Stella McCartney and Balmain all championed the natural approach, and the key is to hydrate the skin as much as possible. A moisturising cream should be followed up with a liquid highlighter to accentuate where the light hits – from cheekbones to the forehead centre.

AIGNER

CHANEL

MAX MARA

ASAI

STELLA MCCARTNEY

PRADA

RALPH & RUSSO

GIAMBATTIISTA VALLI

GRAPHIC EYES

RODARTE

Maybe for the more artistically gifted among us, but the graphic eye trend is fun and versatility for the daring among us. ASAI, Giambattista Valli and Dior experimented with the look. One of the most striking yet wearable finishes came from the latter, of which Creative and Image Director for Dior Makeup Peter Philip said: “I was inspired by the sassy style of English Teddy Girls in the late 1950s. Their avant-garde style, very Londoner. The result is a very graphic and intense black eye, in a rock style reinterpreted with a bit of a punk feel.” DIOR

GLITTER LIPS If a flash of bold colour on your lips wasn’t attention-grabbing enough, for the upcoming season pouts have been adorned with a layer of glitters to draw all eyes in. Rodarte went all out the playful trend, making glittering eyelids match bold shimmering lips in shade – just the final touch of the fantastical aesthetic of the AW19 collection, while Ashish channelled a similar aesthetic.

RODARTE

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EXCLUSIVE

THE SCIENCE OF SKIN As Dior Skincare launches its latest addition to the Dreamskin family, A&E delves into the scientific formula and the psychological significance of these complicated products as we talk exclusively to Edouard Mauvais-Jarvis, Environmental & Scientific Communications Director at Parfums Christian Dior and neuroscientist Dr Arnaud Aubert

ior’s Dreamskin is among the most sought after of cosmetic formulas. When it first entered the market in 2014, the agedefying product had one main goal – to give women perfect skin and it was tremendously received. Then in 2016 Dior created an advanced version of the product for an even more natural look. Now in 2019 the Dreamskin story continues.

terms of perceived perfection, so we said ‘Okay, we need to have something that is extremely healthy and is a product that is more focused on caring about the skin and giving long-term correction from the inside as well as keeping a natural look.’ We wanted to work on specific drawbacks of the product that meant when the skin was darker or more pigmented it had a tendency to look bit ashy or greyish when the product was on the skin. This was linked to the technology that we were using for the blurring. So this is basically what we improved – the care part and the perfection part. This is how we came to decide on the name of the product.

After over 800 formula tests that combined the latest in technology and the most recent scientific advances, Dior presents the third generation of this special product in the form of Dreamskin Care & Protect. This active emulsion has an ultra-fluid texture that is more comfortable on the skin’s surface, will improve quality and texture when used every morning. With more natural-origin ingredients, the active formula is fully-functional and gentle on the skin. A two-part formula is completed with a gel-cream peeling mask, reformulated to create a “new skin” effect in just 60 seconds.

What can you tell us about the ingredients that were added to the formula for this new updated edition? Edouard: We have added Shea butter – more than five per cent – which is very important as it really brings nutrition and long-term hydration to the formula. We have replaced all of the water with an ‘active’ water that comes from The Alps that not only reinforces in terms of minerals but has an impact on circulation. We have added four per cent of vitamin B3 which has multi-benefits – it really is a true health ingredient. It works on the regularity of the skin texture, the colour of the skin, it is anti-ageing and also increases the plumpness of the skin.

The formula is enriched with a patented complex of ulta-mirconized mother-of-pearl for radiance, pigments for colour correction and micro-powders for a blurring effect. The synergy between the ingredients allows the fluid texture to act as an optical veil so that, even make-up free, the skin looks touched up, luminous and with a matte finish. Under foundation the cream provides and instant filter that blurs imperfections. New ingredients include Shea butter from West Africa which strengthens the cutaneous barrier and acts as a booster upon contact with the skin. Another is soothing anti-oxidant vitamin B3, which helps to counterbalance the harmful effects of toxins and boost radiance. It also neutralizes both redness with its soothing power, and yellowing thanks to its anti-glycation action. Marine sugar meanwhile reinforces the skin’s natural defense mechanisms, while French Alpine water recharges the skin with minerals and activates hydration. To discover more about the research behind Dior’s latest skincare revelations, including the psychology involved in creating the latest and most relevant products for the market, we talked exclusively to Edouard Mauvais-Jarvis, Environmental & Scientific Communications Director at Parfums Christian Dior and neuroscientist Dr Arnaud Aubert. What can you tell us about this product, what makes it unique and what has been adapted for the this year’s addition to the range? Edouard: I think we basically wanted to go one step further with what the product was, so we started by making our own diagnosis of what could be the weaknesses of the existing product. We knew that one of the things that could be improved was this notion of real skincare and caring about the skin in an in-depth way. We knew that the quality of healthy looking skin is extremely important in

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Edouard Mauvais-Jarvis Environmental & Scientific Communications Director at Parfums Christian Dior

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When we look at the skin it looks like all the colours are located on the top – the red, yellow and brown tones. But it is the blue undertones that are compensating and creating a more whitish colour. This comes from the dermis, (the thick layer of the living tissue below the epidermis which forms the true skin, containing blood capillaries, nerve endings, sweat glands, hair follicles, and other structures), and it is very important to maintain the right proportion of light diffusion elements in the dermis, as this is responsible for radiance. If the dermis was completely flat there would be no radiance and you need a good colour combination to create this. The Invention of the blue LED light allowed us to have white LEDs. Before this it was very easy to make green or red but blue was missing so it wasn’t possible to create white. It’s exactly the same with the skin, you need to be able to reinforce everything, and to create light, you need to work on all the aspects and regulate what we do. In this product we also have an action on the micro-circulation to avoid unevenness in colour. The Vitamin B3 also works on this aspect. It is also very important to have an anti-ageing aspect not only for the sake of anti-ageing but for the sake of the skin. We notice in skincare that there are a lot of ingredients used that aren’t necessarily natural. Of course they can be more powerful on the skin with faster results, but to what extent do you think it’s crucial to have natural ingredients in skincare products? Edouard: I think natural is something that’s very important but you must understand that there are pros and cons to natural products. A natural ingredient can be a composition of many molecules coming from a natural plant. Sometimes it’s the natural combination of the right levels of different molecules that are present in a vegetable source for example, that will bring a real efficiency. The drawback of this is that in a plant you might

extract 200 different molecules and you have ten that are useful and from the rest, some are completely neutral but some can be harmful and this is where the problem lies. When you go for something that is synthetic – Okay, yes it’s synthetic but it’s also extremely pure so you know exactly what you have. So natural is good but it can have its drawbacks. Synthetic also has drawbacks and positives so sometimes they complement each other. It is often good to have something synthetic that is extremely safe rather than something that is natural. It seems paradoxical but it is the truth. I think it is a trend to source more and more things naturally. How do your roles compliment each other when you are bringing a product to life? Dr Arnaud: There is a saying, ‘the beauty is in the eye of the beholder’ so one of the questions I ask is ‘how does the brain of the beholder work and what matters to them?’ And once you understand the roots of the problem you have the tools to develop new approaches and products. For example, when you develop such approaches using psychology you discover that wrinkles are not such a big deal. We find from a scientific and psychological point of view that being skinny isn’t perceived as beautiful for example – this is something that comes from mass media and isn’t universal, it is in fact a stereotype of mass marketing. What I mean is that body shape doesn’t matter at all – you can be beautiful by being slim or beautiful by being bigger – what is a common point in the body shape is the optimal ratio between the hips and the waist. This optimal ratio is 0.7 between the size of the waist and the hips. Many studies have been done on this. So whatever your weight or size it is all linked to this ratio and this is completely universal. Edouard: This is crucial for us because it helps in understanding the relevant cues on which we need to act. So when we look at a face and we say it’s young or old or attractive or non-attractive, it’s completely instinctive, but you have no idea where it comes from. So by helping us develop these cues that are innate, it helps us to develop a more relevant product. If we understand what people are looking for we can understand what these changes mean in terms of biology and we can find the active ingredient that will reflect on the surface as something that is visible and deeper than that and make a real change. In the past few years we have noticed that Dior's products are answering to customer needs. What can you tell us about the skincare universe of Dior - how do the ranges complement each other and what should we be looking for from skincare products? Edouard: This is why we need to have people to give advice on our products because people need guidance on what they should be using. Actually the geography is quite simple. You must have a key product that is a starter or essential and it must be a product that is detoxifying. When you have toxins in your skin it tends to cripple the system so if you try to do anything before removing the toxins it’s like trying to accelerate with the handbrake on. So first you need to remove the handbrake before starting to drive and you can do this with a detoxifying product. Then we enter the part where you can have aspects that are preventative – this can be anti-ageing or correcting – so this is why we have developed creams that capture youth. And then we know that everybody is different and will age differently depending on their skin type, the reason why we have added serums that allow the cream to work more efficiently on the system. We also have Capture Totale which is more for correction which means that it integrates all the signs of ageing through a broad spectrum approach working on stem cells. Each of the products in the Dreamskin range can be used either alone or as part of a complete routine. Personally, I like to layer different products but I’m maybe not the average male user! We get very interesting demands from clients and we want to make sure we offer something that has a large enough offering to answer to the needs of everyone. No one is the same, some people will have the tendency to age with more signs than others and

Dr Arnaud Aubert Neuroscientist

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they will feel more concerned. Wrinkles are not necessarily the issue. What people see in their mirror is a change. The person I see in the mirror is not the person I feel I am and this is where the discrepancy creates a tension. Ageing is not a problem in itself, what is the problem is that at some point you don’t recognise yourself. Blaming the wrinkles is a simple solution but it is more complicated than that, you need to address the real problem. This is what we try to do – understanding what the problems really are and helping people to make a change that is really noticeable. We are reaching an era where women are being trained on acceptance. Do you think this is playing a role in the way beauty is being perceived? Dr Arnaud: Yes and what he [Edouard] said is very true. The problem is when you are looking in the mirror and you see changes, the changes are automatically a problem and from this you fear rejection. The issue is social acceptance – what you are seeing in the mirror isn’t a problem at all – wrinkles are a sign of ageing – but the issue is not to look younger it’s that when you are younger statistically you are healthier so we don’t connect wrinkles with health. It’s not really about beauty, the point is that you can be beautiful at any age. You are on the constant quest for solutions, anticipating what is needed in skincare, how do you start working on this and how do you solve upcoming problems? Edouard: Everything comes down to understanding – understanding the real cues and drives of what we perceive. Cosmetics have a role in changing the interface that we have with others. Our skin is the first social interaction with others so it’s crucial. This is why trying to gather new methods, either with artificial intelligence or science, could help us find ways to understand the real relevant driving forces behind what people are looking for. Once we understand this, maybe we don’t find the solution immediately, but we have some understanding and an idea of what we need to correct. Another big subject is the understanding of the optical behaviour of the skin. So on one hand we understand how the skin is analysed and we ask when we see a visible change, what could be the origin of this visual change at a biological level? Visual cues are usually correlated to some changes at a microscopic level and sometimes we need to find out what is the mechanism at the route of this change. From there, we try to find ways to study it and if we can study it we can find ways to correct it. I cannot tell you what the subject will be in two, three or five years. We try to put our knowledge back on the table and study groups of people to try to gain a new understanding, but it’s not always from what people express. If someone tells us ‘I need an anti-wrinkle cream’ great we will make an anti-wrinkle cream, but the cream won’t only be focused on the immediate problem but on the real problem behind wrinkles, that's what changes the person’s perception. From a distance you wouldn’t be able to notice if a woman’s wrinkles are reduced by 30 or 40 per cent, for example, but on the contrary what you could notice is the smoothness of her skin and you would be able to perceive a difference in visual radiance. These visual cues are so important when we are working with products because these are the ones that are really changing the impact it has on the woman. This fear of rejection and isolation is the problem not the problem of ageing itself.

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You recently launched the Capture Youth Intense Serum which we love - what was the difference in the formula between this and your previous serums?

As they continue to grow in popularity to what extent do you think sheet masks and face masks are effective? Edouard: The function of a mask is to put a product in a thick layer on the face so that you can leave it on your skin for a longer amount of time. If you try to put a serum on your skin for a period of time for example, it’s difficult because it’s a liquid and it will slide off, so masks transform something liquid into something that you can leave on and allow you to bring a larger quantity of active ingredients to your skin and this is why masks can be very useful. We tend to put a high concentration of active ingredients in our serums which allows our products to be more effective and so you are not necessarily going to need masks, but sometimes what you can do is to apply serums with a brush and leave it to penetrate on the skin. This will give you an experience that is very close to the experience that you have with a leave-on mask. If you have your usual day cream and apply it in a thick layer before going to bed it will have a different performance to what you are used to usually.

Edouard: The magic is the richness of this product. We wanted something that was extremely nourishing and repairing and it is an intense rescue. This product is really an SOS system that is repairing all the little cracks in your skin. It is kind of a cloak that will repair everything on your skin and maintain the water while not being suffocating. It is made only with vegetable oils that are extremely penetrating. It has nothing to do with the other serums, it’s much richer. What would you tell the women of today? Edouard: I would say take care of your skin and be confident. Your first asset in life is your face and you need to take care of it because it’s essential. Dr Arnaud: You can be beautiful at any age and you need to be confident. Interviewed by Lara Mansour Sawaya

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FRAGRANCE

FALLING FOR FRAGRANCE With a new season we see the launch of fresh exciting fragrances - here we handpick our selection of the the latest perfumes that will evoke your senses this fall

Louis Vuitton Coeur Battant This autumn Louis Vuitton expands its Les Parfums family with a new exquisite scent. Coeur Battant is a celebration of energy. Created in perfumer Jacques Cavallier Belletrud’s creative atelier in Grasse, Coeur Battant is a fresh and fruity edition to the brand’s fragrance family which consists of nine key scents. When it comes to the flavours of this scent, imagine biting into a delicious juicy pear. This cool crisp note is prolonged by ambrette seed and Cascalone adds a distinct freshness. Coeur Battant celebrates Egyptian jasmine; a sensual, radiant flower whose freshness is preserved within the elegant bottle. Jasmine’s humid note becomes even richer with the addition of narcissus, a wildflower with green and animalistic facets. A chypré base of pure patchouli and moss elegantly illuminates the perfume’s generous floral heart. This fruity fragrance is for those craving freshness with an edge – undeniably craving fresh, clean air. Presented in a refillable bottle which is also refillable, Coeur Battant comes in two sizes of 100ml and 200ml as well as a compact travel bottle. Available at Louis Vuitton stores nationwide.

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WILD THING

The inspiration for this particular fragrance comes from Guerlain’s muse Angelina Jolie. A woman who represents many of the same values as the house and this fragrance in particular. Jolie worked closely with the Guerlain team on this scent and the meaning of the fragrance, even granting the team access to her own home in Cambodia to shoot the stunning campaign film and stills that accompany the launch. Directed by Emmanuel Lubezki Jolie appears free and wild in the stripped-back shots that show her for the real woman she is. Featuring the natural landscape, the film highlights the connection Angelina has with this country that has become very close to her heart.

Mon Guerlain presents the newest chapter in its family and enrolls Angelina Jolie as the inspiration and muse

Emmanuel Lubezki, Film Director

Mon Guerlain Eau De Parfum Intense is now available in stores.

Angelina has developed a special connection to Cambodia and her Foundation project helps to make rural areas of remote Cambodia safer for the residents by removing landmines and building schools for local communities. The foundation is also dedicated to helping he environment and endangered animals in the tropical rainforest surroundings something Angelina is keen to reinforce through her partnership with Guerlain.

on Guerlain presents the newest perfume in its collection. Mon Guerlain Eau De Parfum Intense is a tribute to women who are, or want to be free wild and open. It is for women who are comfortable in their own skin, who follow their own path and embrace all the aspects of their femininity from their strength to their softness. The new blend is more unique and fearless and aims to inspire and empower women to take life by the horns and embrace everything they possess as a woman. This scent encourages the wearer to reveal something more about themselves to others and it is unique to the person who wears it, adapting its scent to the body of every woman. Designed by Thierry Wasser, Guerlain Master Perfumer and Delphine Jelk, Guerlain Perfumer, the fresh oriental scent embraces notes of French lavender, woody sandalwood from Australia and jasmine Sambac from India, while the star ingredient; Tahitian vanilla adds a sweetness to the sensual fragrance. While it embraces the signature Mon Guerlan scent, Mon Guerlain Eau De Parfum intense takes it to the next level with carefully hand-selected ingredients that make a lingering and captivating scent that signifies freedom and femininity. Thierry Wasser, Guerlain Master Perfumer

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SOFT BLOOMS Combining the most treasured of ingredients, the Maison Christian Dior fragrances will touch your emotions with a scent to match every personality Styling and Direction: Lindsay Judge Photography: Henry Pascual

From left: Gris Dior, Jasmin Des Anges, Purple Oud, Oud Ispahan All Maison Christian Dior All PARFUMS CHRISTIAN DIOR

LEFT IMAGE:

Gris Dior Maison Christian Dior RIGHT IMAGE:

Jasmin Des Anges Maison Christian Dior All PARFUMS CHRISTIAN DIOR

LEFT IMAGE:

Oud Ispahan Maison Christian Dior RIGHT IMAGE:

Santal Noir Maison Christian Dior All PARFUMS CHRISTIAN DIOR

LEFT IMAGE:

Purple Oud Maison Christian Dior RIGHT IMAGE:

Spice Blend Maison Christian Dior All PARFUMS CHRISTIAN DIOR

TRIED & TESTED

ME TIME

As wellbeing becomes the true luxury in the lives of consumers, A&E Editor in Chief Lara Mansour Sawaya discovers Clinique La Prairie, one of the world’s leaders in finding the healthy balance between luxury and wellbeing

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n my role as an Editor in Chief of a luxury lifestyle magazine, I am privileged to be on a constant journey of discovering amazing locations and live unique experiences, at various places around the world to share them after with my readers and people around me. Travel will always be my main source of inspiration and cultivation as it keeps me on a constant learning curve. Lately a new sector has emerged, creating a big hype around wellbeing destinations. It was only natural for such a sector to develop so rapidly as today many of us lead fast-paced and hectic lifestyles, where dedicating time ourselves and our own wellbeing has become a precious commodity, in other words, a true “luxury”. I was invited to Clinique La Prairie last September, but only this summer was I able to dedicate almost a entire away from everything and everyone I know to focus on me. I rarely get those moments – the moments where you are only in the company of your thoughts and listening to no one but yourself – it was much needed. This uber-exclusive health and wellbeing establishment is the only one of its kind in the world and is the pioneer in the development of cell therapy and research into vitality, enhancing the immune system and slowing down the ageing process. With a special scientific approach to wellness, Clinique La Prairie supports the wellbeing of its clientele using intimate and bespoke treatments that really look into the genetic make-up of each and every guest. The intimate 35-room property offers one of the most exclusive experiences in the world and attracts some of the most demanding clientele looking for visible, positive results.

Chateau Tsar Suite

Clinique La Prairie Chalet Verbier

Residence Junior Suite

The clinic provides a number of tailored and bespoke programs that attend to the individual needs of the clients – whether it’s weight loss, detoxing, dietary problems or general wellbeing for example – while the Medical Spa of Clinique features over 50 result-orientated treatments carried out by professional doctors. I managed to fit five days in between my work trips, to discover the Master Detox Program. This experience usually requires seven days. I was only able to stay for five yet despite this I really felt like a different person the day I left… read on to discover more about my experience. Garden

Spa Pool

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Day 1 - The arrival. Discovering how what we eat affects our body I have always considered Switzerland among the most beautiful countries in the world. Its nature, its colours, its weather all this blended together has an instant, natural therapeutic effect. Montreux, the beautiful town overlooking Lake Geneva and the iconic Alps mountain range was around an hour drive from Geneva airport. It was raining heavily that day and all that was on my mind was, what if I get bored? What if it is too strict? The thought thread went on... I arrived and checked into my suite which had a terrace with the most amazing view, despite the fact that it was raining. I prayed for better weather and rushed back down to the lobby where I was welcomed by Christine, my Dietician, who looked after my food program during my stay. We sat in the lobby lounge and the first thing she said was: ‘you will be on a vegan diet!' Of course, I smiled and said ‘okay’ out loud, while in my mind I thought: ‘worst case scenario if I ever wanted to cheat I can’. Christine went on to say that I also wouldn’t be allowed to have any coffee, sugar, or any food with gluten. Here’s when I forced a smile and said ‘let’s see’. I selected a few dishes from the menu that looked interesting. The way it works is that you select your lunch and dinner every day from a designated menu that supports your program.

Restaurant Terrace

After my treatment, I went to the medical spa lounge and met a great person that I now consider a friend, Nigel Franklyn, Spa Consultant at Clinique La Prairie and a world traveller who is on a constant quest to find the latest innovations and solutions to add to the offerings of the clinic. Nigel took me through the clinic’s unique offerings and shared a bit of what is in the pipeline.

After setting my food program I rushed to have the “Visia Test.” This is where a device analyses how the skin is ageing and exposes any damage on the skin that the naked eye can’t see. Luckily, my skin wasn’t too bad for my age, however there was obvious sun damage detected. So, it is more sunscreen and less sun exposure for me.

The highlight of my day was what was exactly needed after a long flight, a body treatment. It was only then that I discovered the magical effect of the seaweed detoxing body wrap.

Treatment Room

Manuela, my therapist, explained the healing powers of seaweed and the relaxing effect it has on the body, as it is known to take all the stress away. And indeed after this 90-minute treatment I felt so relaxed that I wanted nothing but to sleep.

be honest, it wasn’t bad, the taste is weird at first but in a way it quenches your caffeine craving, in other words, it tricks your brain and gives the illusion of having coffee. The treatments of the day started with a deep cleansing facial using the signature products of Clinic La Prairie and it left my skin radiant, fresh and bright. Next I went to have my medical consultation with Dr. Magali Flot, the Medical Nutritionist, for what they call “metal and mineral” test.

Dinner was at 7pm, my choice was pumpkin soup for starter and gluten-free pasta with mushrooms for my main dish which later became my favourites and on repeat. But before I ate any of my meals I was always given a glass of hydrogenated water (meaning it has been infused with extra hydrogen gas) to drink.

An early rise with a body coordination class with my Trainer Guillaume. It was a bit tough as he insisted I do planks and highlighted the great effect it has on our core’s strength. I will admit that it took me a while to do it right but eventually it worked out. Little did I know that later that night my muscles would be so sore that I couldn’t turn while sleeping in my bed.

This happens with a device that they simply cross over the four parts of your palm in order to read and detect the average of the metals and minerals in your body. My result was shocking, as I had a very high aluminium count in my body. Dr. Flot even asked me to wash my hands just in case there was any cream left over on them and he then repeated the test. The result remained the same, so I was advised to check my cooking utensils at home and make sure nothing contains aluminium, check my deodorant and body care products and make sure they are aluminium free and restrict any use of aluminium foil in cooking, as she knew that that was a common method when people cook. The rest of the analysis looked good. I can’t hide the fact that I was a bit preoccupied but she assured me that, with taking the above precautions, levels should regulate again.

Okay so back to my day. My breakfast consisted of a selection of fruits, hazelnuts, raw almonds and fresh juice. Of course, I was longing for my cappuccino but no I wasn’t allowed. So they suggested I try chicory, which looks like coffee in colour and has a certain toasted taste to it but is basically a plant-based drink. To

That afternoon the weather got better and I sat on the outdoor terrace looking at the stunning views and wondering in my thoughts about how our hectic lifestyles divert our attention from really checking ourselves and always listening to our body to know when it is time to slow down.

Relaxed, sleepy and after what was a not-so-bad vegan dinner, I was ready to sleep. 9pm lights off.

Day 2. A new substitute for coffee and a not-so-bad feeling

Spa Lounge

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The day ended with a Visceral Massage with Manuela who explained the importance of this treatment. The techniques used restore normal visceral (organ) movement and function and help to integrate the function or movement of the body as a whole. It's a very gentle abdominal massage that can be performed by massage therapists, osteopaths, allopathic physicians, and other practitioners to treat things such as constipation, post-surgical adhesions, back pain, and even stress, mood and sleep issues. Manuela used her hands to assess tense spots and gently compress and move certain soft tissues, feeling out for tender spots and scar tissue. What I recall was that she was focusing on my stomach, and the next thing she was waking me up at the end of our treatment!

production. The means smooth skin which regains elasticity and density, and therefore having an anti-ageing effect. During the treatment, you have your eyes covered and all you can feel is the strong light of red, green and white consecutively. The treatment takes around 15 minutes. Another relaxing afternoon followed until it was time for my highly anticipated Thai Massage. Nithaya, the lovely Thai Therapist who has been performing these treatments for 15 years as not only a certified massage therapist, but also a medical one as she used to work in a hospital and is a physiotherapist. So could you imagine the mix in her technique?

Day two ended over a quiet dinner. At the restaurant, you have the same designated table prepared daily according to your programme. At mine, a detox herbal tea was always keeping me company. I had my soup, my main dish and my dessert (of course no sugar or dairy products) but it tasted great.

I arrived to the treatment room and was greeted by her. She asked me to sit on the edge of the treatment bed where she started examining my posture, my shoulders, even the spine alignment. To her, my body was tense (no wonder) and this was negatively affecting my posture and blocking the energy channels in the body.

That night I couldn’t sleep well as I was sore from the morning workout.

I laid down and she started the treatment. I won’t hide the fact that I was in pain most of the treatment and she was saying it is normal and to breathe out when I feel discomfort. 90 minutes after this intense massage (yes intense as at one point she was walking on my back), she applied a muscle relaxing cream and asks me to slowly stand up. And here is when I have to tell you that it was the first time since I had both of my kids that I could stand straight! (Did I mention the numerous times I heard my bones crack?) Well, at the end it felt great and I just felt that I wanted to sleep!

Day 3. A colourful day Early rise, feeling light and so peaceful, the weather was amazing as the sun came out again and the view out of my terrace was simply divine. I went out to enjoy a morning walk around the lake. It was so refreshing. The colours of Montreux are just beautiful.

Early dinner and a very delicious pumpkin and passion fruit soup was waiting for me, followed by a plate of grilled vegetables and hummus dips that really looked great visually and didn’t taste that bad. I then treated myself with my favourite fruit watermelon and called it a day.

My day continued with a colour and a photo-stimulation session, which is a kind of anti-ageing treatment also known as light therapy. Photostimulation uses light to artificially activate biological compounds, cells and tissues. Skin cells can be photo-stimulated in the same way as plant photosynthesis to improve oxygenation and stimulate the skin cells responsible for collagen and elastin

Relaxation Room

Day 4. Mixed feelings of pain and relief

The agenda that followed had two interesting treatments; the first was Cryotherapy, which literally means “cold therapy”. This is a technique where the body is exposed to extremely cold temperatures for several minutes. The theory for whole-body cryotherapy (WBC) is that by immersing the body in extremely cold air for several minutes, you could receive a number of health benefits.

Not a great feeling, I tell you! I woke up super sore from the Thai massage and the muscle stimulation it involved and I was barely able to walk. It reminded me of the last month of my pregnancy, but it seems at Clinique La Prairie they know and expect these post-treatment symptoms, that’s why I had a planned early session of “Yogalates” with Guillaume, my trainer. An hour of what is to be a mix of yoga and Pilates movements with stretching techniques outdoors in the open air and under the beautiful blue skies. Honestly, I enjoyed it so much and it felt so good afterwards as it released all my muscle discomfort. Breathing had a lot to do with that since, according to Guillaume, many of us (including me) breathe in the wrong way. Learning how to inhale and exhale properly and deeply soothes pain, relaxes muscles and most importantly brings in the oxygen to all your organs in the right amounts.

Despite the freezing -192 C that you are exposed to, there are numerous benefits such as reducing migraine symptoms, numbing nerve irritation, reducing arthritic pain, combating stress and reducing inflammation in the body. Following this refreshing treatment, it was time for a relaxing massage that included what they call a “singing bowl’. The so-called Tibetan singing bowls are wonderful instruments made of an alloy of metals that have been used for sound healing and sound therapy for centuries. They are believed to originate in India and its neighbouring countries, although the history does not provide a clear-cut answer to their origins. The special thing about these bowls is that they produce a rich variety of harmonics and vibrations that have the capacity to stimulate us on a physical (relaxes the muscles, increases bowel movement, etc.), energetic (increases our vital energy, harmonises our personal resonance, etc.) and mental level (induces us to a meditative state, opens emotional blocks, etc.).

Relaxed and happy, I headed to my planned treatment – a body wrap that helps with firming and detoxing the skin. Lunch was followed by a very interesting workshop with Olga the Dietician who took me through all sorts of healthy food components and recommendations for healthy, balanced eating. Olga had a prepared a special table set up at the spa café where she displayed all kinds of important foods with rich sources of minerals and vitamins so I could learn about each one and make sure to eat what is needed for my body.

It was indeed a much-needed treatment to end my day.

Thai Massage

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Day 5. My last day at the clinic

future, we have to keep this idea of exclusivity and a customized, tailored service. As you can imagine we always have customers asking “why don’t you create somewhere for two hundred women in the United States?” for example. We are not interested in this.

Adopting a vegan and caffeine free diet wasn’t bad after all! And sugar free as well! By the fifth day, I felt so relaxed and energetic, but most importantly so much at peace. My skin was seriously radiant and I was totally convinced on how the food we eat and the lifestyle we lead affects our body and our wellbeing.

What we envision in terms of development is basically explained in three different steps. The first is what we call City Hub – once they are back in their own city, we would like our guests to be able to find a place where they can continue to follow the programs from Clinique La Prairie under the guidance of our doctors, coaches, nutritionists etc. We know that despite us trying to do our best in the week while you’re here, in order to sustain it you need to be following a program throughout the year until you come again. So we are building City Hubs all around the world – this is the first step and we are hoping it will help people live a longer and more healthy life. The second step is that there are technologies that we have developed at La Prairie that you can take with you. So we have created a holistic health campaign, which makes some of the technology that you experience here, available after your stay. The third step is that there are programs that you might want to do more regularly. So we are thinking about opening three more clinics – one in the United States, one in South East Asia and one in the Middle East. Hopefully this will allow some of the programs to be available locally to our clients who don’t want to come all the way to Switzerland so regularly.

I enjoyed a morning swim at the iconic indoor pool that has a panoramic view of the beautiful Alps and thanked myself for giving my body and wellbeing such a personal treat. After checking out and before heading to Milan – my second destination – I had a nice chat with Simone Gibertoni, CEO of Clinique La Prairie. He is tasked with the mission of growing this luxury clinic and its philosophy by continuing to maintain its exclusivity and unique approach to wellness. Wrapping up my bespoke experience and discussing the future of the destination and its unique approach to wellness and its expansion into the rest of the world, I ask him:

Do you think you will grow the concept of Clinique La Prairie around the world? That’s a very important question and in fact something we are working on. You told me you found this a very exclusive place and you tried treatments that you haven’t found anywhere else in the world and this is true. We have only 35 rooms but 350 staff, so on average six or seven staff for each guest – you don’t find this anywhere else in the world. So whatever we are going to do in the

That’s it – we don’t want to open 200 clinics and the ones we do open will have the same set up – very exclusive and around 40 rooms. This is the only thing we are good in doing and we don’t want to change that. What you receive here cannot be commercialised because the cost is so high and we cannot be anything but exclusive.

Spa & Residence

but there are people who cannot drink even one because their system is not built for it. So you can’t tell everyone that to detoxify they shouldn’t drink coffee because that is not true. I believe the future of wellness is going to be more about the customization of the program, starting from the genetics. That’s why we are acquiring a genetic company and why all of our programs include a genetic test. The human touch is super important for us so that’s something that will be very difficult for us to balance in the future because many people want to experience technology and artificial intelligence within wellness.

What do you think are the main challenges that you face? In terms of challenges the first one we have is how can we make potential clients understand what we are. If you look at communication it may seem that we are more or less the same as others, but we know that we are different so we would like to improve the way we tell our clients, or potential clients, that what we do is very different. The second challenge we have is that with our system you have to care about the medical aspects. Whatever we do, even if you want the most spiritual treatment it has been chosen because of the science behind it and it has to be proven to work. That is how we challenge ourselves with any treatment we provide. It’s about research, development and investment. The other challenge for us is to promote to people that we are very serious and everything is scientifically proven and our doctors are always behind the work we do. The majority of our clients will have a house bigger than the clinic with a private chef and a private doctor, so when they come here they need to find something unique otherwise they can stay at home. Our challenge is to make these people understand our value and comeback to us.

Do you think the fast-paced lifestyle of today is meaning people are missing connecting back to the human touch? What we often see here is actually people wanting to get away from all this technology and social media that will ruin their lives. So it is true that the human touch should be more and more important. The market would like us to create clinics of 200 or 300 rooms but we do the contrary, we are creating clinics with fewer rooms. This is also why we created the Private Retreat. This Private Retreat is the concept of having a private doctor, chef and nutritionist only for you. This can be for one week or two weeks but it means that all Clinique La Prairie services are available only for you. It is the ultimate in bespoke service and wellness.

You have customers coming from all around the world – how do you offer something that will cater for everyone? I always use a matrix of countries and age when I talk about wellness, so the wellness request of someone from China in his thirties is very different from the request of an American of the same age. So we have three big chunks of wellness philosophy – Asian, American and European – they are very different. So the question is how can we ensure these people buy our philosophy and trust us? Skincare is all about credibility our business is even more about how good we are at building this credibility and the fact that we have been here for 90 years shows this.

How would you describe Clinique La Prairie in one sentence? This best way to describe the uniqueness is that it is a perfect fusion between medical, wellness and luxury experience. You won’t find this kind of experience anywhere else. What is the message you want to spread? The message for us is really our vision and mission. We would like to help our clients live a longer, healthier and better life. We are seeing a lot of people who have everything they want but they are not happy and healthy and so not living the life they want to lead. So when they come here we encourage them to step into a different life. That’s our dream.

The bespoke approach is very important to you what can you tell us about that? There are a few trends in wellness as you know, but for me the most important is the bespoke approach, which is more and more linked to genetics. I always say that the future of wellness is going to be a deeper, customized program because we know very well that in genetics there are people that can drink ten coffees for example,

Reviewed byLara Mansour Sawaya

Simone Gibertoni, CEO, Clinique La Prairie

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A&E RECOMMENDS

AL BALEED RESORT SALALAH BY ANANTARA, OMAN

ust a two-hour flight from Dubai you’ll find the magical oasis that is Salalah. Situated on the south coastline of Dhofar, Oman, this heavenly resort feels a million miles away from the desert with lush greenery, tropical scenes, freshwater lagoons and coconut-fringed beaches. Salalah really is a surprisingly breath-taking destination that’s closer to home than you would ever imagine. As the oldest independent state in the Arab world, Oman is defined by a rich history, with a wealth of archaeological sites, imposing forts, frankincense trees and vibrant souks for those looking to tune into the spirit of old Arabia.

For those seeking the luxury lifestyle, there is only one place to stay. Al Baleed Resort Salalah by Anantara is situated in the heart of the resort, a luxurious haven with uninterrupted panoramic views of the Indian ocean. The resort embraces the culture of this unique destination. The hotel itself boasts striking and authentic architecture, surrounded by lush tropical gardens and an Instagram-worthy infinity pool at the centre. The resort was designed with the region’s beauty in mind. Whitewashed facades and clean lines complement the blue skies while Arabic lanterns create a magical evening atmosphere.

With the monsoon season turning the landscape green there are many good times to visit this scenic destination. From June through to August Salalah is at its greenest, waterfalls flow into the freshwater lagoons and the temperatures are warm but not overwhelming – a perfect escape from the UAE's hot summers. For those looking for something slightly cooler, visit between September and November when temperatures will drop and you’ll experience scattered showers and light wind, while the spring offers a more humid heat that’s still great for sun worshippers.

For a personal touch, guests can benefit from the knowledge of the resident Salalah Guru. The Omani local grew up in Salalah and is an expert in the region with unsurpassed knowledge of the area and is on hand to guide and show guests the local sites and give them a glimpse into the local life, culture, history and landscape. There are also plenty of activities to keep guests busy including mountain hiking, visiting the local waterfalls, discovering the Al Baleed Archaeological Park - a 60 hectare UNESCO World Heritage Site, jet skiing, kayaking, fishing trips and so much more.

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ROOMS & VILLAS The resort comprises of 136 rooms and villas, all designed with handcrafted furnishings and rich textures providing a subtle Middle Eastern ambience. Overlooking either the Arabian Sea, lagoon or picturesque gardens, each room is equipped with modern comforts. The resort’s 40 Premier and Deluxe Rooms all feature a spacious bedroom, en-suite bathroom with rain shower and separate bathtub, walk-in dressing room and media hubs with portable Bluetooth speakers alongside a terrace or balcony. Meanwhile, eight one-bedroom Villas and 88 one and two-bedroom Pool Villas entice guests with personalised services and separate living areas, with Pool Villas benefiting from private temperaturecontrolled swimming pools, the first of their kind in Salalah. The largest of all the rooms is the exclusive three-bedroom Royal Beach Pool Villa is the epitome of luxury, boasting commanding views of the sandy bay and idyllic lagoon.

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FOOD & DINING Al Baleed Resort Salalah offers three dining venues all completely different and unique. Each dining destination embraces both local traditions and ingredients as well as international recipes. The all-day dining restaurant Sakalan (translated to The Land of Frankincense), offers international cuisine served in open kitchens. For something a little more specialised visit Mekong – the resort’s signature restaurant sends guests on an Asian adventure with Thai, Chinese and Vietnamese cuisine served in a stylish setting. If the weather allows, guests can dine on the outside terrace next to a peaceful lagoon and decorated with lanterns – the perfect setting for a romantic evening. Meanwhile, relaxed beachside dining restaurant Al Mina offers Mediterranean treats and shisha. Anantara’s ‘Spice Spoons’ experience allows guests to discover the secrets of cooking Thai or Arabic cuisine. Upon departure, each guest is provided with a certificate and recipe cards, allowing them to recreate their dishes at home.

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SPA & WELLNESS The Anantara spa takes guests on a holistic journey offering the only luxury hammam in Salalah as well as rejuvenating treatments that use natural ingredients inspired by the region including frankincense, coconut and pomegranate. The spa has a focus on restoring a radiant sense of wellbeing and rejuvenation with feelgood treatments that are balanced with the region’s ancient rituals and indigenous ingredients. The spa features five treatment rooms as well as separate male and female wet areas, relaxation areas, Thai massage room and nail spa. The spa’s signature treatment; The Frankincense Ritual is a unique massage experience that sees two therapists perform a fourhand synchronised full body massage. The treatment embraces the local treasured ingredient of Frankincense which has healing benefits. The Coconut Indulgence treatment is another highlight. The replenishing experience begins with a full body brush using coconut shells, guests are then wrapped in fresh banana leaves to detoxify and re-energise, followed by a relaxing massage using warm coconut butter. The treatments are available for solo visitors and couples.

If you are looking for something truly special visit the traditionally inspired hammam. The only one of its kind in Salalah, the old age ritual purifies the body, cleansing it from toxins and stimulating the immune system. In the marble designed Hamman visitors will be scrubbed thoroughly to increase blood circulation and awaken the senses before relaxing with a cleansing olive foam soaping, nourishing mask and massage. The rasul treatment room also allows guests to apply natural mineral mud to their face and body before relaxing in steam to ensure the skin is left silky smooth after their treatment experience. If you’re looking for something more than just a beauty treatment The Anantara spa also offers a wellness experience that is designed as a way to balance the body and mind. Consultants and alternative health practitioners create three, five and seven-day packages targeting weight management, revitalisation, relaxation, de-stress, detox and rejuvenation. The spa’s experts can design bespoke wellness programmes that cater to each guest’s specific needs. To complete the experience guests can benefit from the use of a fullyequipped gym, yoga classes and beach boot camp sessions. For more information visit https://www.anantara.com/en/al-baleed-salalah

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TRAVEL

LUXURY ON THE RIVIERA ONE OF MONTE CARLO'S MOST ICONIC DESTINATIONS, HOTEL DE PARIS IS BORN AGAIN WITH A NEW LOOK AND NEW VISION, A&E DISCOVERED MORE THIS SUMMER

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Rooms and Suites With the modernisation of the hotel’s rooms and suites Hôtel de Paris Monte-Carlo is able to provide larger and more spacious rooms for its guests. There are now 207 rooms in total of which 60 per cent are suits and almost all feature a balcony or terrace. The rooms keep the classic and timeless feel of the property but are light and airy through their modernisation and choice of luxury interiors. The rooms are more colourful than previously with a splash of colour adding personality and more of a homely feel to the spaces. Within the rooms you’ll find sleek wooden furniture with gilded brass or glass paired with Louis XVI style pieces. Bronze fabrics add a shimmer in the bedrooms lounges and soft precious fabrics give a homely feel. All of the materials were carefully chosen from around the world to create a the perfect mix of luxury. Aside from the standard rooms and suites Hôtel de Paris MonteCarlo’s three new suites are something to marvel over. The MonteCarlo Suite is designed with casino-goers in mind. Complete with its own exclusive gaming experience this suite is for the biggest game players in the city. At 525 Square metres the Price Rainier III Suite is the one of the largest suites in Monte-Carlo. Guests can benefit from their own shower and sauna, private bar in the launch, office space and a terrace with infinity pool and wave system.

ôtel de Paris Monte-Carlo is one of the city’s most historical and recognisable properties. With a 150-year history the iconic hotel has welcomed some of the world’s most esteemed guests including celebrities, kings and queens, heads of state and some of the world’s top business men, and it has been the film set of choice for many of Hollywood’s top movies. Founded in 1864, Hôtel de Paris Monte-Carlo has stood the test of time and continued to be one of the city’s most popular destinations. But in 2014 the decision was taken to renovate this iconic property and modernise it in a way that embraced its history and further defined the founder François Blanc’s dream of creating “a hotel that surpasses everything”. While modernisation has been done in the past, this would be the biggest project the hotel has undertaken since its creation. In January 2019 the renovation entered its final stages with much of the vision complete and A&E was lucky enough to discover the ways in which the hotel has become even more of an icon that it already was. The overall objectives of the restoration project were partial deconstruction, reconstruction the harmonisation of spaces, the design of new areas, the creation of exclusive suites and the evolution of gastronomy. With this in mind the hotel was entrusted to architects Richard Martinet and Gabriel Viora, who were given the huge task of enhancing and preserving the spirit of the building, but modernising it in a way that met the needs of today’s demanding hotel guest. The hotel restoration includes the creation of two brand new suites as well as the renovation of the Rotunda and Alice wings, the Beaux-Arts wing, Casino wing, Lobby and Bar Américain and more.

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The third and newest suite is the Princess Grace Suite. Inspired by the timeless elegance of Princess Grace of Monaco. This extravagant suite is split over two floors and even includes 440 square metres of outdoor space with panoramic views of the ocean and the Prince’s Palace. The outdoor area includes a heated infinity pool, lounge area and jacuzzi. Inside guests will find everything they need so that they never have to leave this luxury oasis. Two bedrooms complete with walk-in wardrobes, dining room, lounge area and so much more. Guests staying in this suit will also receive a private Meet & Greet service at the airport or heliport, a dedicated room at the Thermes Marins Monte Carlo spa in winter and a tent at the Monte-Carlo Beach hotel’s private beach during the summer. This is the ultimate in luxury. Food and Dining Hôtel de Paris Monte-Carlo has a history of fine dining. It was in fact the first place in the world to be awarded 3* in the Michelin guide in 1990 for the Alain Ducasse restaurant and it’s new addition is set to continue the reputation as it opens its latest additions. At Le Louis XV-Alain Ducasse à l’Hôtel de Paris, Alain Ducasse and his Executive Chef Dominique Lory present “essential cooking”, paying homage to local ingredients and cuisine. Up to 50 guests can enjoy intimate dining with a menu of carefully prepared Mediterranean haute cuisine dishes. On warmer summer days the restaurant opens out onto an elegant ground-level terrace which overlooks Place Du Casino.

For more casual dining guest can visit ÔMER, which offers Mediterranean creations by Alain Ducasse. This restaurant overlooks the beautiful hotel gardens with the sea in the distance and the décor is fittingly inspired by that of a boat. The menu offers dishes created from ingredients of the land and sea – creating a complex and unique cuisine. The menu is inspired by the cuisines of Greece, Lebanon, Turkey, Morocco and Tunisia with a hint of Spain and France. You’ll also find Le Grill on the 8th floor, offering marine-inspired décor in a new modern setting. This is the place to come if you are looking for spectacular evening views. Shopping Experience If you’re planning a trip to Monte-Carlo the chances are you’ll be wanting to experience the vast shopping opportunities. From the High Jewellery boutiques at some of the city’s leading hotels to the new Monte-Carlo shopping Promenade which features brand new luxury boutiques. Presented by the Monte-Carlo Société des Bains de Mer, this promenade is the newest must-visit to the city. Located close to the hotel and near the Place Du Casino, the Shopping Promenade features forty high end boutiques from international fashion brands, watch and jewellery houses, perfume makers and more. The open air promenade features boutiques from brands including Audemars Piguet, Celine, Bvlgari, Chanel, Dior and lots more meaning you can shop ‘til you drop then head back to the nearby hotel for some well-needed recovery time!

For more on all of Monte-Carlo’s attractions visit montecarlosbm.com

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BEST FOR LAST

THE EDEN BAG T

his fall Givenchy introduces a new ‘it bag’ to its offering. After the recent introduction of the Mystic Bag for Pre-Fall 2019, Clare Waight Keller is back with this geometric design. Already spotted on the Instagram account of current Givenchy muse Ariana Grande, the Eden bag is both a shoulder and belt bag and comes in a variety of shapes, colours and materials in a variety of sizes. Eden combines functionality with a sleek, smooth design and the thick strap means in can be worn comfortably in a number of ways. This musthave high fashion accessory will be your go-to autumn/ winter companion.

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