Porthole Cruise and Travel, December 2022 by ppigroup

MS Roald Amundsen Silent sailing … for science’s sake

12.2022

Cruising Saudi Arabia New visits to ancient cities

Houseboat Chic Luxury liveaboards

A Dom Pérignon Dinner Oceania’s haute cuisine

2022 Readers’ Choice Awards

THE REAL LOVE BOAT... QUESTIONS ANSWERED!

+10

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THINGS JUST GOT PERSONAL Experience Yacht-Style Cruising Aboard the New World Traveller

Atlas Ocean Voyages continues its ﬂeet expansion with the launch of yet another state-of-the-art small-sized ship. World Traveller is purposefully built for intimate, yacht-style cruises and expeditions traveling to remote, boutique, and marquee ports around the world. Its small ship design enables a highly personalized and all-inclusive experience with luxury accommodations, stylish social spaces, ﬁne dining, in-depth excursions, and small group excursions ashore.

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ALWAYS INCLUDED • Complimentary cultural immersion on every voyage

• Personalized in-room mini-fridge stocked daily

• Elegant main restaurant with ever-changing menus inspired by

• Luxurious L’OCCITANE bath amenities

global cuisines, a specialty chophouse, a cozy café, afternoon tea

• Gratuities for exceptional service

with light snacks, and room service

• Emergency Medical Evacuation Insurance

• Unlimited wines, premium craft cocktails, and brews • Chilled craft cocktail or sparkling wine welcome

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• Private Charter Jet Service, complimentary parka and more on Antarctica and Arctic expeditions

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NEW HORIZONS AT SEA

M S C S E A S CA PE This December, MSC Cruises’ brand-new MSC Seascape will set sail, offering an immersive experience that truly connects you to the sea. Her cutting-edge design features impressive outdoor spaces for unparalleled relaxation and stunning ocean views. Enjoy 11 dining venues and 19 bars and lounges, our signature aft Infinity Pool and waterfront promenade, world-class entertainment, an expansive MSC Yacht Club, and unmissable onboard amenities including cruising’s first Robotron at sea, an unprecedented thrill ride for adrenaline-seekers. MSC Seascape will offer Eastern and Western Caribbean itineraries, including calls on Ocean Cay MSC Marine Reserve, our exclusive private island in The Bahamas. Set sail for memorable experiences and discover new horizons at sea aboard MSC Seascape.

ON LY T HE SE A, ON LY MSC

VISIT MSCCRUISES.COM | CALL 877.665.4655 | CALL YOUR TRAVEL ADVISOR

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PUBLISHER’S LETTER

ISSUE 242 DECEMBER 2022

Every issue of Porthole Cruise and Travel is meant to dive deeper into that appreciation, to seek out your next favorite destination, or to share the inside information about your newest favorite cruise line. This issue is no different. You can review the Readers’ Choice Award-winners on page 26. But we’ve also supplied plenty of suggestions for new favorites!

Winners’ Circle The best cruise is always the one you’re about to board; the best destination is the one you’re about to set foot in. WELL, WE MADE IT THROUGH ANOTHER YEAR, and that means it’s time to look back at the best of the best. The most difficult and the most rewarding time of year for Porthole is always this year-ending issue, because this is when the Readers’ Choice Awards come out. We’ve spent weeks tabulating answers from our ballots and taking a long look at what each of you love best about cruising. Some love rivers. Some dream of a particular island on the Caribbean. Some look forward to the next adventure. Some have the fondest memories of a special meal or a particular cruise director. But all of you have something to say about seeing the world and enjoying the vessels that take us to faraway places.

You can savor the caviar dreams of Oceania’s Dom Pérignon Dinner on page 12. You can explore the newly opened cruise ports of Saudi Arabia on page 20, and Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way on page 23. You can experience what it’s like to do citizen science with an all-female research team on Hurtigruten’s hybrid ship MS Roald Amundsen on page 34, or weigh three very different boutique cruise experiences on page 48. You can discover 10 cruise ship surprises on page 42, or pick out the very best holiday gifts for your favorite travelers on page 15. And, on page 58, we chat with cruise director Matt Mitcham (a three-time former Readers’ Choice Award winner himself), about the new show The Real Love Boat and how it promises to bring a whole new generation of fans to the cruise industry. Whatever you like and wherever you’re going, may you find it somewhere out there. Happy travels!

Bill Panoff Publisher bpanoff@ppigroup.com

SEE YOU ON SOCIAL!  Facebook.com/PortholeCruise  Twitter.com/PortholeCruise PortholeCruise.tumblr.com

YouTube.com/PortholeCruise

Instagram.com/PortholeCruise  Pinterest.com/PortholeCruise YouTube.com/CruiseControlBP

Tiktok.com/@portholecruise

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CONTRIBUTORS Olly Beckett began his career working in the cruise industry and now writes for various publications about his experiences traveling through 85 countries and all seven continents by any means possible — trains or planes, bus or bike, cruise or camel.

ISSUE 242 DECEMBER 2022

A former TV reporter, Richard Varr has written for USA Today, the Dallas Morning News, Islands, Sydney Morning Herald, Highways, and Home & Away. He authored a DK Eyewitness guide to the Pennsylvania Dutch Country, and his Porthole story on Grenada earned first place in the SATW Central States international stories competition.

Judi Cuervo began her freelance cruise writing in 1998 with Porthole Cruise Magazine where, as J.C. Travell, she authored the Jane Q. Cruiser and horoscope columns as well as regular cruise and ship reviews. A New York City native, her cruise writing has appeared in regional, national, Canadian, U.K., and Australian publications. Jon Fleming lives in London, U.K., and has been traveling all his adult life — from a month-long roundEurope rail trip when he was 18, to a year-long round-the-world backpacking trip for his honeymoon. For the last 17 years, he has been traveling by cruise ship as a destination lecturer, visiting 130 countries and sailing on 11 world cruise itineraries.

Bill Panoff Publisher/Editor-in-Chief Linda Douthat Associate Publisher/Creative Director Grant Balfour Managing Editor Skip Anderson Art Director Sara Linda Proofreader Olly Beckett, Judi Cuervo, Jon Fleming, Lola Méndez, John Roberts, Richard Varr Contributing Writers Adobe Stock, Alamy Stock Photo, Judi Cuervo, Tracy Fleming, Lola Méndez, Unsplash Contributing Photographers

Sales Offices Corporate Headquarters/PPI Group 6261 NW 6th Way, Suite 100 Fort Lauderdale, FL 33309, USA (954) 377-7777 Email: sales@ppigroup.com William P. Jordan III Stephanie Davies Distribution Nationally distributed by Comag Marketing Group

Bill Panoff William P. Jordan III Audrey Balbiers-Panoff Piero Vitale Linda Douthat Stephanie Davies Soren Domlesky

President VP Digital Marketing

Lola Méndez is an UruguayanAmerican freelance journalist who writes about sustainability, travel, lifestyle, wellness, LGBTQ+, and Latinx topics for print and digital publications including CNN, USA Today, InStyle, ELLE, and Refinery29, in addition to her responsible-travel blog, MissFilatelista. com. You can follow her on Instagram, Twitter, and Facebook @ LolaAnnaMendez.

CEO/Chairman President Chief Operating Officer Chief Financial Officer SVP, Publishing VP Digital Marketing Director of Technology

John Roberts, operator of InTheLoopTravel.com, calls Colorado his home base while exploring destinations around the world in a fun, fit, and adventurous way. John has written for publications such as AARP The Magazine, Cruise Critic, World of Cruising (U.K.), Travel Pulse, Cruise Passenger (Australia), and TravelAge West.

Porthole Cruise and Travel ©2023 Porthole Magazine, Inc. ISSN: 1070-9479 POSTMASTER: Send address changes to P.O. Box 469066, Escondido, CA 92046. All rights reserved. Reproduction, either in whole or in part, is forbidden without written permission from the publisher. The magazine assumes no responsibility for the safekeeping or return of unsolicited manuscripts, photography, artwork, or other material. Porthole Cruise and Travel Magazine is published six times a year by Porthole Magazine, Inc. It is distributed on a paid basis to subscribers worldwide, including cruisegoers and cruise industry executives. It also is distributed on a controlled-circulation basis. Porthole Magazine Inc. shall not be held liable for claims made in advertisements. Address for all editorial and advertising correspondence: Porthole Cruise and Travel Magazine, 6261 NW 6th Way, Suite 100,Ft. Lauderdale, FL 33309. Phone: (954) 377-7777. Email: bpanoff@ppigroup.com. Visit our website: porthole.com. To subscribe: Call toll-free (800) 776-PORT or (760) 268-9594 (International) 8:30 a.m.- 5 p.m., Pacific time; email us at porthole@pcspublink.com; or write to Porthole Cruise and Travel Magazine, P.O. Box 469066, Escondido, CA 92046-9066, USA. Subscription rates: 1-year subscription (6 issues) USA: $24.99; Canada: US$29.99; all other countries: US$59.99 (first class); 2-year subscription (12 issues) USA: $34.99; Canada: US$39.99; all other countries: US$99.99 (first class). Florida residents, please add 7% sales tax.

For questions about your current subscription, call toll-free (800) 776-PORT or email porthole@pcspublink.com.

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ST.

C R O I X ST.

J O H N ST.

T H O M A S

THE PERFECT CRUISE STOPS HERE. Stop at any of our ports for unique culture, white sand beaches, turquoise waters, and picturesque towns with shopping and attractions that offer all the island experiences you are looking for.

visitUSVI.com

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FEATURES

ISSUE 242 DECEMBER 2022

26 The 2022 Readers’ Choice Awards All your favorites: the best cruise lines, best amenities, and best destinations!

34 Day @ Sea Electric Expedition Hybrid ship MS Roald Amundsen is an ecological triumph and a scientific treasure, bringing researchers and cruisers together in some of the world’s most fascinating destinations. by LOLA MÉNDEZ

42 10 Cruise Ship Surprises

Think you’ve seen it all in the world of cruise? Think again! by OLLY BECKETT

48 Cunard

Crowd-Free Cruising Boutique ships give you a trip the way you like it. by JOHN ROBERTS 7

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IN THIS ISSUE

ISSUE 242 DECEMBER 2022

Publisher’s Letter by BILL PANOFF

Contributors

PLANET PLAYGROUND page 58

Wine & Dine

The Dom Pérignon Experience aboard Oceania Marina by JUDI CUERVO

Shop Around

Your 2022 holiday gift guide by GRANT BALFOUR

Shore Leave

Jeddah and Yanbu possess an ancient beauty ready to be rediscovered. by JON FLEMING

Roads & Rails Ireland’s cliffs, rugged shoreline, and awe by RICHARD VARR

BEST LIFE

SHORE LEAVE Jeddah

Good Vibes

From saving the beach to tracking sustainable travel, we’re making our way to a brighter future. by ALEX DARLINGTON

Sailing with la dolce vita on Costa Cruises. by STEVE LELAND

Personal Touch

Dr. Austin Gallagher stands up for marine life — by diving deep. by ALEX DARLINGTON

Yacht Life

Luxury liveaboards are truly mansions on the water. by GRANT BALFOUR

Sail Away

Travel wishes for the new year

LELAND & SEA Costa Clockwise from top: Subair/Adobe Stock; Costa Cruises (x4)

Leland & Sea

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PLANET PLAYGROUND

ISSUE 242 DECEMBER 2022

Wine & Dine

Shop Around

Shore Leave

Roads & Rails

Top to bottom: barmalini/Adobe Stock, Adamov/Adobe Stock, Jonathan Nelson/Alamy Stock Photo, Dawid/Adobe Stock

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GO BEYOND FOR AN UNFORGETTABLE JOURNEY Our newest ship, Celebrity BeyondSM, takes your vacation to new incredible heights. Soak up the sun in newly expanded open-air spaces. Unwind in luxurious accommodations so stunning, you may never want to leave. Savor fine dining that rivals anything you’d find on land. And be pampered by a dedicated staff who deliver seamless service every step of the way.

CALL 1-888-245-4254

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WINE & DINE

Bubbly C’est Bon What it’s like to enjoy the Dom Pérignon Experience aboard Oceania Marina by Judi Cuervo

AFTER SEVERAL DAYS ABOARD OCEANIA CRUISES’ OCEANIA MARINA,

The Dom Pérignon Experience is the result of a collaboration between Oceania Cruises’ corporate chef Franck Garanger and the executive chef of Moët & Chandon’s La Maison Dom Pérignon, Marco Fadigo, who together

Left: Oceania Cruises Right top to bottom: Oceania Cruises; FV Photography/Adobe Stock; Judi Cuervo; Oceania Cruises; rosinka79/Adobe Stock

just when I was pretty sure I’d enjoyed the finest cuisine in the most sumptuous settings at sea, a small ad in the daily program catches my eye: The Dom Pérignon Experience. I was intrigued and more than a bit skeptical, believing that no dish could be more triumphant than the rich, gravy-drizzled foie gras encased in a flaky pastry crust that I enjoyed at Jacques, the glorious banana-leaf-wrapped sea bass at Red Ginger, Toscana’s tender tagliolini arrabiata with lobster or Polo Grill’s filet mignon with a pungent gorgonzola crust. Yet, human nature being what it is, I booked my spot and, the following evening, headed up to Deck 12 and the Dom Pérignon Experience.

ven the executive chef, head sommelier, servers, and chefs seem to struggle to suppress their excitement as our small group files into La Reserve by Wine Spectator, the sophisticated private venue that hosts this special event only once per cruise for a maximum of 24 guests. In the warm glow of La Reserve, surrounded by sparkling displays of fine wines set into wood-paneled walls dotted with artwork and tapestries, we settle at the elegant dining table adorned with floral arrangements and candelabras and find ourselves in a privileged world within a world aboard our ship.

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[ PLANET PLAYGROUND ] created dishes designed specifically to showcase the nuances of three outstanding Champagne vintages. The experience is so exclusive that it is available only aboard Oceania Cruises’ Oceania Marina, Oceania Riviera, and, soon, Oceania Vista, or at the Moët & Chandon property in France. I’m not usually a fan of education sprinkled into my dining experiences but tonight, I eagerly absorb the history of this fascinating bubbly that is widely acknowledged as the best in the world, and the fanatical precision that makes it so. Every bottle of Dom Pérignon contains only extraordinary pinot noir and chardonnay grapes harvested in a single year. If that particular year’s grapes are second rate, no Dom Pérignon vintage is produced at all. Now, that’s a commitment to perfection!

La Reserve

Brittany blue lobster swimming in a puddle of delectable yellow curry broth topped with airy coco foam; earthy and fragrant black truffle risotto; and tender seared sashimi-style Wagyu beef dressed with a generous portion of aromatic osetra caviar. A sophisticated selection of French cheeses with black currant-pepper paste and thyme flower leads to the grand finale: Sakura Geisha flower-tea ice cream resting on a bed of feather-light meringue and topped with a sweet and crispy tuile. I certainly don’t need the best Champagne on earth to devour every bite, but the presence of the Dom Pérignon vintage specifically selected to enhance each dish lifts the experience from magnificent to magical, with more than a few surprises along the way. Champagne with beef? Dom Pérignon Rosé 2006, we find, is intense, vibrant and penetrating with an unexpected hint of green citrus that perfectly complements our seared sashimi-style Wagyu beef, blood-orange soya jus, and osetra, taming the saltiness of the caviar and intensifying the lush flavor of the beef.

Tonight, I eagerly absorb the history of this fascinating bubbly that is widely acknowledged as the best in the world, and the fanatical precision that makes it so.

As one whose knowledge of Champagne is pretty much limited to celebratory toasts, I find The Dom Pérignon Experience to be a delicious eye opener: from the very concept of pairing champagne with food, to the unexpected trio of Riedel glasses, more wine glass than flute, arranged at each place setting. These glasses, specifically created for Dom Pérignon, feature a wider bowl and narrow top that captures the subtleties of the Champagne, perfectly delivering the different layers of aromas. Tonight we will sip Dom Pérignon 2009, Dom Pérignon 2006, and Dom Pérignon Rosé 2006 — quite a bit of each, in fact, judging from the attentive servers who have already begun circulating to generously refill glasses. Tasting notes guide us through the meal being prepared in the open kitchen and help novices like me identify and appreciate the characteristics of each vintage as it comes to life with each dish. And what dishes they are: briny scallops Rossini with a decadent touch of sauteed foie gras and a slab of sweet, smoky pineapple;

While the Dom Pérignon Experience is billed as a “tasting menu,” portions are quite generous and I try to eat mindfully so that I may enjoy all six courses. I manage to succeed, except when it comes to that rich black-truffle risotto — I devour every sensual grain. Like life’s other luxuries, the Dom Pérignon Experience doesn’t come cheap, with its price per person $295 plus 20 percent gratuity. Yet, with the average retail price of a bottle of Dom Pérignon being $170 (Dom Pérignon Rosé is priced even higher) and decadent ingredients like truffles, wagyu beef, and caviar among the standouts in the dishes featured, Champagne lovers or even just novices, are truly getting a bargain — and the meal of their lives.

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WINE & DINE

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10/20/22 10:01 AM

SHOP AROUND

[ PLANET PLAYGROUND ]

Ready for Wrapping YOUR 2022 GIFT GUIDE CELEBRATE THE LOVE OF FRIENDS AND FAMILY with a special something selected by Porthole Cruise and Travel editors for our annual gift guide. We’ve sampled the best goods, apps, and experiences out there, and found top-quality gifts perfect for whoever is on your “nice” list — whether they’re foodies, shoppers, adventurers, or hardcore cruise fanatics, we’ve found something that’s bound to bring delight. Top of the season, Porthole readers, to you and yours! by Grant Balfour

For the Cruise Fanatics Time Traveler A sturdy bag has the best of the past and the future to get you where you’re going next. The Vaan & Co. Hardy Duffle is built with foresight, thoughtfully engineered for maximum roominess using a unique technique of hand patching. But it’s also got a vintage style, handcrafted from 100 percent genuine leather that’s been upcycled from an earlier age. vaanandco.com

Clockwise from top left: Vaan and Co, Reimot, Anne Cate, EZ Packing

See What You Need Packing cubes can make it possible to fit a surprising number of necessities into a single suitcase. EZ Packing Cubes take away the mystery of what’s inside them. The sturdy see-through covers make instant organizing a snap, and come in sizes ranging from a TSA-approved toiletry bag up to a large cube that fits three to four full outfits.

ezpacking.com

Sip and Go Prepared for Anything Don’t let minor mishaps turn into major hassles when you’re at sea or on the road. The Anne Cate Emergency Kit, a vegan-leather mini-wallet decorated with the skyline of your favorite city, contains everything you need in a pinch, from bandaids to breath mints, safety pins to hand sanitizer. annecate.com

If you’ve ever wished for an extra hand to hold your coffee while waiting in line with your luggage, then here’s your answer. Riemot’s Travel Cup Holder adds bang to your pre-boarding by adding a secure spot for a latte (or whatever gets you going) onto your rollaway luggage handle. It’s actually got two pockets, and can fit anything from a smartphone, wallet, or drink cups from 8 to 24 ounces. riemot.com 15

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SHOP AROUND

For the Shoppers Party Down

More Precious than Gems Turn your memories into one-of-a-kind wearable art. Dune Jewelry takes sand and “earth elements” from their Sandbank of thousands of specific locations, and uses them to handcraft keepsake accessories that are personalized to your significant memories in special destinations around the world, from childhood beach homes to golf courses and vacation spots.

If you want to host a party that’s truly in a class of its own, check out the Under Water Entertainment Platform, or UWEP, from personal submarine maker Uboat Worx. It’s a 115-foot-long autonomous submersible that can take up to 120 guests, excluding crew, down to 600 feet underwater with enough room to stroll around. The 1,600-squarefoot space can be configured into an underwater restaurant with 64 seats, a subsea gym, or a deep-sea casino. Fourteen windows look out into the deep, and the all-electric motors can keep the UWEP going for 24 hours between charges. uboatworx.com

dunejewelry.com

Bright Idea Feeling sore after a day climbing steps or a night on the dance floor? The DNA Vibe Jazz Band “wellness wearable” is a form-fitting electronic pad that promises relaxation and relief from stiffness and pain through microvibrations and red light therapy that precisely targets specific effective frequencies. Past users report improvement in conditions ranging from postoperative recovery to neuropathy, arthritis, neck and back pain, tennis elbow, plantar fasciitis, and more.

A watch is an accessory that does more than tell time. It makes a statement about engineering, durability, and style. Named for the pro surfer, Breitling's Superocean Automatic 42 Kelly Slater model brings back the retro lines, high-contrast ring, and chunky luminescent indexes of their 1960s Slow Motion dive watches, but adds a ceramic-inlayed bezel and brightly colored dials. It’s shock-, sand-, and saltwater-resistant, and operates down to 1,000 feet of depth. Plus, it just looks good.

breitling.com

dnavibe.com

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Clockwise from top left: Dune Jewelry, Uboat Worx, Patagonia, Blue Frog, opolja/Adobe Stock, LiliGraphie/Adobe Stock, Breitling; DNA Vibe

Time and Tide

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Nice is Easy Patagonia CEO Yvon Choinard made global headlines recently when he gave away his multibillion-dollar outdoor-wear empire to raise money to combat climate change. But he built that empire by selling stylish clothing designed to stay exquisitely comfortable yet rugged enough to survive surfing, skiing, and backcountry adventures. The Kamala Jumpsuit is a case in point: a lightweight blend of organic cotton, TENCEL™ lyocell and spandex cut into a flattering, flowing design with a scoop neckline and tie waistband, perfect for lounging by a campfire or at a sidewalk bistro. Plus, every penny of profit now goes to saving the planet.

patagonia.com

Luxurious Napping

Clockwise from top left: Dune Jewelry, Uboat Worx, Patagonia, Blue Frog, opolja/Adobe Stock, LiliGraphie/Adobe Stock, Breitling; DNA Vibe

Family Travel Pick your next destination based on your roots, and maybe run into some long-lost cousins on the way. The Ancestry DNA test lays it all out, revealing your origins in over 1,800 regions (not just countries, but specific areas inside each country) as well as the most connections to living relatives. A new ethnicity inheritance feature shows your ethnicity results by parental side, without your parents even taking a DNA test. Add an all-access account and you can trace your ancestors’ journey wherever they appear in over 3 billion international family records. ancestry.com

Make your next long layover miles more comfortable by arranging for hotel access that’s less than a room for the night. Swim laps for a couple of midmorning hours? A quick shower and a 20-minutelie-down? Need an office suite for an afternoon to dash off a work assignment? The Hotels By Day app lets you rest, recharge, and do what needs to be done for a low hourly rate.

hotelsbyday.com

Sharpened Focus Get the most out of your camera — and take truly memorable travel photos — with a Custom Creative Pro X Kit from Blue Frog Filters. Choose two of three Pro X neutral density or graduated neutral density filters, and get a landscape circular polarizer; a filter holder that fits 62mm, 67mm, 72mm, 77mm and 82mm lenses; a handy reference chart; and a sturdy storage case to keep everything tidy in your camera bag. bluefrogfilters.com

For the Explorers 17

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SHOP AROUND

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For the Foodies Sweet Smiles The Bake Me A Wish Holiday Bakery Boxes deliver cheerful tidings, hearty flavors, and do a good deed all at once. Each box comes with guaranteed next-day delivery, and sends five percent of proceeds to Bake Me a Wish Cares!, aimed at helping those less fortunate and giving hope to those in need. For instance, the elegantly packed Silver Boutique Bakery Gift Tower includes a dozen gourmet cookies, four Sweet Carolina snack mixes, and eight individually wrapped brownie bites including Chocolate Truffle, Chocolate Truffle with Walnuts, Marble Cheesecake, and Cookies and Cream.

Holiday Cheers Here’s to your favorite winelover this holiday season. The 2022 Wine Advent Calendar comes with 24 whites, reds, and rosés from around the world to enjoy along with tasting notes for each wine, virtual tasting videos, and a daily email with insights and tips, as well as wine recipes and suggested food pairings.

ingoodtaste.com

Say Cheese (and Nibbles) Serve snacks with natural flair. Cribsi’s Charcuterie/Cheese Board with Knife is built to show off the beautiful end-grain pattern of naturally renewable acacia wood, is easy to clean, and can be flipped over for use as a cutting board. The acacia-wood knife/spreader conveniently tucks away in grooves between the two sections.

cribsi.com

Clockwise from top: Bake Me a Wish, In Good Taste, Cribsi, Fuego Box

bakemeawish.com

Warm Wishes, Hot Sauces To heat up your holidays (and the whole of 2023), sample a new craft and small-batch hot sauce every month with one of the Fuego Box collections. Each selection is spicy, but many aim for flavor over heat, like the Blazing BBQ Gift Box, which has Born to Hula Imperial Apple BBQ Sauce and Da Kine Original Rub among its offerings, or the AllStar Crate, which contains sauces like Hoff Sauce Southern Stinger and Friendly Fire Guava + Habanero. fuegobox.com

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QUESTIONS: Call Kathleen Pendergast 214-891-2918

Crystal Caves, Grand Cayman. This is a creative representation; stepping in the water is not permitted.

AD NAME: Caves

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SHORE LEAVE

Calling on Arabia The Red Sea ports of Jeddah and Yanbu are new to cruisers, but possess an ancient beauty ready to be rediscovered. by Jon Fleming

And it was a good question — just three years ago, the idea of Western tourists walking freely around Saudi Arabia’s second largest city and its biggest port would have been unthinkable, never mind tourists who had arrived on a luxury cruise ship.

Tracy Fleming (x4)

hat are you doing here?” asked the boy playing on his scooter along Jeddah’s attractive waterfront corniche. It’s a question I was asked quite a few times in my visit to the Red Sea ports of Jeddah and Yanbu. The inquiries weren’t in any way threatening, they were genuine, good-natured expressions of surprise from a people who just aren’t used to foreign tourists who aren’t Muslims.

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[ PLANET PLAYGROUND ] Saudi Arabia has become one of the last frontiers of tourism — a newly-opened place that confounds many of your preconceptions of what we think visiting the kingdom is going to be like. Firstly, in spite of its ultra-conservative government and some extremely restrictive laws, there wasn’t an oppressive atmosphere when you were out on the streets. I can honestly say that I have never heard “Welcome to my country”, more often than I heard from the ordinary people I met in Jeddah, who, without fail, would give us a beaming smile, once they had got over their initial shyness. It did help that all the passengers sensibly respected the advice from the tourist authorities to cover up, and for the women generally to wear head scarves (although this wasn’t a legal requirement, and there was no need for veils or long abayas). Secondly, in spite of the incredible wealth of the country, this isn’t a gleam-

ing, high-rise, futuristic environment like Dubai or Abu Dhabi. In fact, Jeddah (and even more so, Yanbu) is a sprawling, dusty city that’s in the early stages of undergoing massive development plans. Saudi Arabia seems obsessed with the new. In Jeddah, we passed by neighborhood after neighborhood that was being bulldozed to make way for huge new urban projects. But, even though we scarcely saw anything over 30 years old in the kingdom, by far Jeddah’s most interesting aspect is AlBalad, the atmospheric Old Town — the one surviving district from the years before the petrodollars transformed this reclusive desert kingdom. Here, we crept around quiet, crumbling lanes lined with the old Tower Houses that made up the traditional architecture of the Red Sea coast 150 years ago. These evocative, whitewashed four- and five-story houses, with their latticework balconies and sturdy wooden doors, were

By far Jeddah’s most interesting aspect is AlBalad, the atmospheric Old Town — the one surviving district from the years before the petrodollars transformed this reclusive desert kingdom.

in varying states of repair — some derelict and leaning at precarious angles, others newly-restored and open as private museums that gave you an insight into the history of what has always been Saudi Arabia’s most cosmopolitan city. For centuries, Jeddah has been Saudi Arabia’s window on the world — the place where millions of pilgrims have passed through on their way to the holy city of Mecca. And, the city remains at the forefront of the kingdom’s ambitions to turn itself into a tourist attraction, as it has built such (dubiously interesting) attractions as the world’s tallest flagpole and the world’s largest fountain. And even if work on what’s intended to be the world’s tallest building has stopped for now, we were taken to see one of the city’s latest success stories, its impressive Grand Prix circuit that was going to be hosting the Formula 1 race a couple of days after our visit. Of course, being in the infancy of tourism meant that not everything went smoothly. The customs staff

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SHORE LEAVE

an enforced period off the booze was treated as a welcome break by some over-indulgers!). It must be said that Jeddah (and Yanbu) are intriguing places but not yet full of mustsee sights, so visits to more prosaic attractions like the incredibly colorful fish market help to bring you in touch with everyday Jeddah life. Side trips away from the coast to Taif, with its untouristy souks, or to the holy city of Medina from

Sometimes, part of the fun of travel is to go to totally alien environments and to find that they’re not as we expect them to be. To visit places where the locals are as curious about you as you are about them. There aren’t many cruise destinations where you can be right at the front of the tourist vanguard, but Saudi Arabia is one.

Tracy Fleming (x3)

I have never heard “Welcome to my country”, more often than I heard from the ordinary people I met in Jeddah.

Yanbu, make for interesting diversions. In Medina, we discovered that Saudi Arabia is much more international than you might think. We met pilgrims from all around Asia and the Middle East — all of them fairly astonished to be seeing us!

Jon Fleming (3)

at the port seemed woefully unprepared for the arrival of a few hundred impatient cruise passengers all at once. The tour guides were of varying quality, although all of them tried hard, and they assured us that they were going through heavy training to understand what we Western tourists want. Plus, the passengers had to “endure” a dry ship for the three days we were in Saudi waters (although

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ROADS & RAILS

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The Wild Atlantic Way Ireland's cliffs, rugged shoreline, and awe by Richard Varr

Cliffs of Moher

Dawid/Adobe Stock, Tommy Bond/Unsplash

unlight slowly pokes through the morning haze, casting wispy shadows on the steep cliffs curving in front of me. They’re rock-chipped and craggy, but at the same time majestic and breathtaking. Yet what stuns me the most are what look like tiny specks seemingly crawling along the flattened cliff tops — hikers, actually, putting the enormity of the mighty Cliffs of Moher into perspective. That’s because the cliffs, one of Ireland’s most-visited and most dramatic seaside landmarks, tower 702 feet at their highest point and stretch for 5 miles along the Atlantic coast below, receding into the horizon. They’re just one stop on my motorcoach day tour of County Clare, where some of Ireland’s most rugged landscapes along the country’s

so-called Wild Atlantic Way thrill visitors every day. “Ireland’s whole west coast is magical and the cliffs are just a highlight,” says driver Dermot Holmes, a guide with Paddywagon Tours. “In the west are glacial deposits from the Ice Age. The land underneath it is sheer rock, so there’s very little soil. So what the Irish did was clear the land as best they could and realized the best crop to grow in poor soil is the potato.” And sheer rock it is, outcropping from grassy patches within County Clare’s Burren, a region known for its karst landscape. So harsh, in fact, that a 17th-century surveyor with British General Oliver Cromwell’s conquest campaign once called the area “a savage land yielding neither enough water to drown a man, nor tree to hang him, nor soil enough to bury him.”

Burren Nationa

l Park

A 17th-century surveyor once called the area “a savage land yielding neither enough water to drown a man, nor tree to hang him, nor soil enough to bury him.”

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ROADS & RAILS Yet amid the roughness, a subtle and gentle beauty abounds with the blooming, surprisingly, of Mediterranean and alpine flowers including whitepetalled mountain avens and brown and red-streaked dense-flowered orchids. “Plants grow there that shouldn’t grow in Ireland, but they do,” explains Brian Nolan with Galway Walking Tours, in the nearby college town that’s often used as a base for exploring the area. “The limestone retains heat and creates a unique atmosphere.” Our motorcoach tour follows scenic route R477, hugging the Burren’s Atlantic coast. In the distance, I see silhouettes of the three Aran Islands, also a popular day trip. “There’s a saying here about the Aran Islands,” quips Holmes. “If you can see the islands, it’s going to rain. And if you can’t see them, it’s raining already.” At 8 miles long and 2 miles wide, Inishmore is the largest island, with its own cliffs and ancient forts. Residents there, like many in western Ireland communities, treasure their Celtic culture.

Dunluce Castle, a filming location for Game of Thrones

The Whole Way

Gallerus Oratory

My day trip to County Clare brought us to only a small area along the often dramatic coasts of the 1,500-mile-long Wild Atlantic Way. Itineraries traversing the entire route can run one to two weeks, stretching from County Cork to northernmost County Donegal and even beyond into Northern Ireland. From south to north, highlights include the 112-mile Ring of Kerry loop, passing through mountainous and boggy terrain along the Moll’s Gap mountain pass, by the Lakes of Killarney, and along ocean views of the rocky Skellig Islands. (These were recently made famous in Star Wars movies as the filming location for Luke Skywalker’s Jedi Temple.) Across Dingle Bay, the 25-mile Dingle Peninsula drive features sand dunes at Ventry Bay and the Gallarus Oratory, a well-preserved 6th-to9th century Christian church. North of the Cliffs of Moher, Galway is noted for its red-sailed traditional fishing boats known as “hookers.” Christopher Columbus is said to have

Left to right: Nadine/Adobe Stock; Dawid/Adobe Stock; Milan/Adobe Stock; Henrique Craveiro/Unsplash

The 25-mile Dingle Peninsula drive features sand dunes at Ventry Bay and the Gallarus Oratory, a well-preserved 6th-to-9th century Christian church.

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Itineraries traversing the entire route can run one to two weeks, stretching from County Cork to northernmost County Donegal and even beyond into Northern Ireland.

White-bellied Atlantic puffin

Cliffs of Moher

The cliffs, one of Ireland’s most visited and dramatic seaside landmarks, tower 702 feet at their highest point and stretch for five miles along the Atlantic coast below, receding into the horizon. visited here in 1477. Mountainous Achill Island, Ireland’s largest, can be reached by a road bridge. The peaks of the “Twelve Bens” dot the Connemara area along with the Maumturks range, some within Connemara National Park. County Donegal’s Slieve League seaside cliffs — some of Europe’s highest — soar to 1,972 feet, and on Tory Island, the Anvil Ridge slices 1,300 feet out into the North Atlantic. A mustsee is Northern Ireland’s Giant’s Causeway, with its hexagonal basalt columns clustered along the shoreline. Throughout their journeys, travelers can visit castles and see the narrow stone fences crisscrossing grassy pastures and farmlands. Many were built during the mid-19th century when residents cleared rocks from fields as the Potato Famine gripped the country. “Landlords decided to give a penny to build a wall a mile long and three feet high,” explains Holmes. “The people built the walls anywhere to get as many pennies as they could to feed their families.”

Edge of the Sea Atop the Cliffs of Moher, meanwhile, I stop in the Visitor Centre to learn how flocks of birds nest within crevices of the cliffs, in particular on the stratified rock island below known as the Branaunmore Sea Stack. White-bellied Atlantic puffins with orange-tinted beaks and feet swoop around the stone, as do varieties of seagulls and brown-backed guillemots. “I’m blown away by the fresh air and by the amount of bird life in the cliffs down below you,” says Nolan. “The views from the cliffs are stunning right across to the Aran Islands, six miles to the west. “The islands are spectacular and beautiful, and,” he adds, “they have the last vestiges of the ancient Celtic culture and language. The people there speak Irish as their first language. There’s stunning scenery, beautiful beaches and gorgeous cliffs as tall as the Cliffs of Moher.” 

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The 2022

READERS’ CHOICE Awards

HERE’S TO THE BEST OF THE BEST IN CRUISE!

MSC Cruises

Welcome back to the best, cruise fans. As Porthole Cruise and Travel has since 1998, we asked you, our readers, to tell the world what you thought about everything cruise: the best cruise lines, the best onboard amenities, the best destinations. This year, you voted in droves. You singled out the most singular specialty dining, tapped the most terrific onboard technology, rewarded the most righteous river destinations, and gave us the tops in dozens of other travel categories. The voting was very close this year, and thanks to a new ballot, we were able to learn a little more about why you made the choices you did, and what makes your favorites the very best in the world of cruise.

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Best Mediterranean Cruise Destination Barcelona 27

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Best World Cruise — Cunard

Best Luxury Line — Seabourn

Best Lines • Best Ocean Line

• Best Cruise Line for Families

• Best Shore Excursions

• Best River Line

• Best Cruise Line for Teens

• Best Multi-Generational Cruise Line

• Best Luxury Line

• Best Cruise Line for Solo Travelers

• Best Antarctic Cruise

• Best Expedition Line

• Most Romantic Cruise Line

• Best World Cruise

• Best Cruise Line for the Money

• Most Eco-Friendly Cruise Line

• Best Cruise Line Private Island

Norwegian Cruise Line

AmaWaterways Seabourn Cruise Line

Lindblad Expeditions

Carnival Cruise Line

Disney Cruise Line

Royal Caribbean International Norwegian Cruise Line

Windstar Cruises MSC Cruises

MSC Cruises

Princess Cruises

Viking Expeditions Cunard

Ocean Cay MSC Marine Reserve, MSC Cruises

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Voters Win Too! Lucky Readers’ Choice voter Mary Wolfe has won a 7-night cruise for two in a veranda stateroom on Celebrity Cruises after her name was drawn at random from the thousands of votes we received. “My husband and I began cruising in 2004. Since then we have been on about 19 cruises ranging from the supersized vessels to an UnCruise adventure,” says Wolfe. “We like cruises because we unpack once. (My husband doesn't unpack at all.) All our meals and transportation are taken care of. We like getting a glimpse of different venues, and if we like, we can return for a longer vacation. We also enjoy sea days. Just our ship on the vast ocean.” I’m sure that’s something every Porthole reader can understand. Thanks for voting, Mary, and we hope you have a great time on your cruise!

YOUR VOTES UNDERLINED THE GROWING popularity of expedition cruises and river cruising, with a surprising standout: Although AmaWaterways was first past the post in the river category, Viking Cruises — which started as a European river carrier — actually had the most votes spread across all of the cruise-line categories combined, with strong showings among ocean lines, luxury lines, and expedition lines. AmaWaterways won out among river lines because voters loved the shore excursions (especially on Danube cruises to Budapest and Vienna).

Best Antarctic Cruise — Viking Expeditions

For ocean-going cruises, voting was split much more evenly, with Norwegian, Carnival, Celebrity, and Princess getting almost equal shares of the vote. Among luxury lines, Seabourn took a slight lead over Oceania, Regent Seven Seas Cruises, and Cunard. Expedition lovers rallied around Lindblad Expeditions, overcoming excitement from UnCruise Adventures fans and enthusiasm for Viking’s new expedition ships, Viking Octantis and Viking Polaris. There were surprising showings lower down the ballot, like when Princess beat out Royal Caribbean, Carnival, Disney, and UnCruise for the best multi-generational cruises, and when MSC narrowly defeated UnCruise and Lindblad in the “Most Eco-Friendly” category (likely due to the impact of MSC’s popular marine reserve destination, Ocean Cay).

Best Shore Excursions — MSC Cruises

Best Ocean Line — Norwegian Cruise Line

Best River Line — AmaWaterways

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PRINCESS CRUISES AND ROYAL CARIBBEAN seem to have mastered technology at sea, with the best onboard tech and best wi-fi respectively. Small-ship lines did quite well at making guests feel cared for on board, with high showings across all three related categories (best accommodations, best service, best cruise director) for UnCruise Adventures and Avalon Waterways. But in each of those categories, a large ocean line came out on top, with Celebrity earning top marks for accommodations and service, and Carnival’s Lee Mason narrowly beating out UnCruise Expedition Leader Kelly Sutter for best cruise director.

Best Spa Facilities — Norwegian Cruise Line

In another surprise, voters cared more about main dining rooms than specialty dining, with a close contest breaking out between Oceania, Holland America, and Princess for top honors (Oceania eventually won).

Best Service— Celebrity Cruises

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• Best Accommodations

Celebrity Cruises

• Best Casino

Best Signature Cocktail — Cucumber Sunrise, Carnival Cruise Line

Norwegian Cruise Line

• Best Spa Facilities

• Best Cruise Ship App

• Best Wellness Program

• Best Wi-Fi At Sea

• Best Fitness Facilities

• Best Nightlife

• Best Medical Facilities

• Best Service

• Best Onboard Shopping

• Best Theme Cruises

• Best Onboard Technology

• Best Onboard Enrichment

Norwegian Cruise Line Seabourn Cruise Line

Best Specialty Restaurant —Pinnacle Grill, Holland America Line

Celebrity Cruises

Holland America Line

Best Onboard Amenities

Princess Cruises Princess Cruises

MSC Cruises, MSC for Me Royal Caribbean International

Celebrity Cruises Celebrity Cruises Carnival Cruise Line Cunard

• Best Cruise Director

Lee Mason, Carnival Cruise Line

• Best Onboard Activities

Royal Caribbean International

• Best Main Dining Room Cuisine

Oceania Cruises

• Best Specialty Restaurant

Pinnacle Grill, Holland America Line

• Best Facilities for Guests with Disabilities

Holland America Line

• Best Children’s Programs

Disney Cruise Line

• Best Cruise Ship Entertainment

MSC Cruises

• Best Signature Cocktail

Cucumber Sunrise, Carnival Cruise Line

Best Onboard Activities — Royal Caribbean International

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Left to right: Val Traveller/Adobe Stock; Anjelika Gretskaia/Adobe Stock; Arcady/Adobe Stock; bomboman/Adobe Stock

Best Asian River Cruise Destination — Shanghai, China

Best Destinations • Best European River Cruise Destination

• Best Caribbean Beach Port

• Best American River/Great Lakes Cruise Destination

• Best Alaska Cruise Destination

• Best Asian River Cruise Destination

• Best Canada/New England Cruise Destination

• Best Caribbean Cruise Destination

• Best Hawaii Cruise Destination

• Best Caribbean Shopping Port

• Best Mexico Cruise Destination

Budapest (Danube) Lower Mississippi

Shanghai (Yangzi)

United States Virgin Islands St. Maarten

St. Kitts

Ketchikan

Quebec City

Maui (Lahaina)

Cozumel

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Best Northern Europe Cruise Destination — Copenhagen, Denmark

• Best Central America Cruise Destination

Puerto Limón, Costa Rica

• Best South America Cruise Destination

Buenos Aires, Argentina

• Best Northern Europe Cruise Destination

Copenhagen, Denmark

• Best Mediterranean Cruise Destination

Barcelona, Spain

• Best Asia/Pacific Cruise Destination

Singapore

• Best South Pacific Cruise Destination

Bora Bora, Tahiti

Best South Pacific Cruise Destination — Bora Bora, Tahiti

• Best Middle East/Indian Ocean Cruise Destination

Jeddah, Saudi Arabia

• Best Africa Cruise Destination

Cape Town, South Africa

• Best Australia/New Zealand Cruise Destination

Auckland, NZ

NO ONE IN PORTHOLE’S EDITORIAL OFFICES EXPECTED QUITE SO MANY Mediterranean fans to turn up for the voting, but about 20 percent more voters flocked to the Mediterranean ports than voted in the “Best Caribbean” categories. Barcelona was the clear victor for Mediterranean cruisers, who valued history, architecture, and cuisine over days at the beach. For the first time, we split Middle Eastern and Indian Ocean destinations into a category of their own, with the newly opened port of Jeddah, Saudi Arabia, getting top honors by squeaking past Petra, Jordan, and Colombo, Sri Lanka. Given the number of river-cruise enthusiasts, we also thought it only right to single out different river-cruise regions. Voting got hottest among the European inland cruise fans, who honored Budapest above Amsterdam and Vienna. Shanghai, at the mouth of the Yangzi, got top honors among Asian river destinations, and America’s Lower Mississippi (New Orleans to St. Louis) edged out itineraries along the Columbia and Snake Rivers and cruises of the Great Lakes. But wherever you’ve been — and wherever you’re planning to go next — we at Porthole hope it’s an award-worthy trip. The best vacation is the one you’re on right now! Best Canada/New England Cruise Destination — Quebec City

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ELECTRIC EXPEDITI

Oscar Farrera/Hurtigruten, joopie82/Adobe Stock

Hybrid ship MS Roald Amundsen is an ecological triumph and a scientific treasure, bringing researchers and cruisers together in some of the world’s most fascinating destinations.

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IC TION by Lola Méndez

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The engine’s hybrid operation has lowered CO2 emissions by 20 percent. Water used to cool the engine system is then upcycled to heat the ship's showers, hot tubs, and infinity pool. As with all Hurtigruten ships since 2018, the vessel is also free of single-use plastic. MS Roald Amundsen made its maiden voyage, an Antarctic expedition, in 2019. While the ship’s capacity is 528 people, voyages to Antarctica that include shore visits are allowed a maximum of 500 people on board. Those trips stopped during the COVID-19 pandemic and resumed in 2022.

Science-First Voyages The Norwegian company, which currently visits 250 destinations in over 30 countries, has a rich expedition heritage dating back to 1896. Part of that maritime legacy includes providing transportation to scientific researchers. The stateof-the-art Amundsen Science Center on Deck Six features high-tech gadgets and equipment including microscopes for analyzing field samples of rocks, fossils, and biological specimens. Scientists actively conduct research in the center and, as a part of the citizen-science program, they welcome guests to observe and discuss their findings. The center features museum-style exhibits on Antarctic wildlife and daily educational lectures from scientists covering a diverse range of topics. “As a leader of responsible tourism, we bring travelers to various parts of the world in the most sustainable way to increase awareness of unique and critical environments while also allowing scientists to conduct their research free of charge and do scientific dissemination at the same time as guests on board get to learn from this research,” says Dr. Verena Meraldi, the cruise industry’s only chief scientist. “The research we’re supporting will contribute to creating new guidelines and regulations to protect wildlife in remote and fragile environments.”

Wildlife Observation The Expedition Team is made up of scientific researchers, marine biologists, ecologists, glaciologists, and nature guides who linger on the two-level, indoor/outdoor observation deck accessible from the science center. They’re happy to share their wildlife and geological expertise with curious guests and thrilled to share information about aquatic life such as penguins, seals, and whales in real time while observing them in their wild habitat from the deck. The hybrid engine generates less noise pollution, thus reducing the negative impact on marine animals and fostering better wildlife observation.

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Left from top: Oscar Farrera/Hurtigruten, Hurtigruten Right: Andrea Klaussner/Hurtigruten

urtigruten’s MS Roald Amundsen is the world’s first hybrid-batterypowered cruise ship. The ship is named after the Norwegian explorer who became the first person to cross Antarctica and reach the South Pole. In 1882, at 10 years old, Roald Amundsen daydreamed about electric ships. Today, his namesake ship honors his pioneering legacy by being the most sustainable ship to offer voyages to Antarctica. The Rolls Royce engine switches between lowsulfur diesel and battery power that provide a combined power of 1.35 MWh. While the lithiumion battery, developed by Corvus Energy, could operate the ship for about 30 minutes, it isn’t utilized alone. Instead, the batteries are used for “peak shaving” to get the maximum amount of power from the fuel. The ship’s innovative pointed bow and wave-piercing narrow hull also decrease drag, making MS Roald Amundsen more fuel efficient. Designed by Espen Øino, it’s one of the most eco-friendly cruise ships in the world.

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MS Roald Amundsen made its maiden voyage, an Antarctic expedition, in 2019.

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The scientific research reveals whales’ behavior near ships and provides critical information to cruise lines on how they can adapt to minimize interference with whales.

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FIRST OF ITS KIND RESEARCH to evaluate the animals’ health, population growth rates, food sources, and stress levels. Lew is a bioacoustic marine researcher who places an acoustic buoy in the water, which is attached to a hydrophone which sinks 10 meters (33 feet) deep. “We’ve recovered humpback whale contact calls and moans. They’ll call one another when they're coordinating foraging. Those calls travel far because of the low frequency,” she says. The scientific research reveals whales’ behavior near ships and provides critical information to Liah McPherson

Kiirsten Flynn

Aboard the 18-day sailing to Antarctica in February 2022, an allfemale team of California Ocean Alliance (COA) research biologists was conducting the most robust marine sound research to date in one of the most fragile ecosystems on Earth. “With COA we’re working on finding solutions to minimize the impact on wildlife,” Dr. Meraldi says. Kiirsten Flynn, Chloe Lew, and Liah McPherson collected acoustic data of baleen whales singing, drone photography, and biopsy samples of whales’ skin and blubber

cruise lines on how they can adapt to minimize interference with whales. “We collect acoustic data of ambient noise levels in the soundscapes in the Antarctic which is a critical environment marine mammals use to carry out foraging, breeding, navigation, and communication. The environment is changing due to climate change and increased human activity. These baseline measurements of ambient noise are crucial in establishing the correct management decisions for ocean

noise and sea policies,” Lew says.

Chloe Lew

Photos (x7) Lola Méndez — Permits NMFS 23095, ACA-2021-006, ACA-2021-016

Collecting biopsy samples

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Flying drones

Placing sound devices

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Top to bottom: Lola Méndez; Hurtigruten

The sleek ship embodies luxurious Scandinavian design using regional granite, oak, birch, and wool rooted in the Scandinavian concept of hygge — comfort and coziness.

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SHIP DETAILS

Lola Méndez (x5)

Top to bottom: Lola Méndez; Hurtigruten

The sleek ship embodies luxurious Scandinavian design using regional granite, oak, birch, and wool rooted in the Scandinavian concept of hygge—comfort and coziness. The ship’s carpets feature patterns of ancient Viking runes. Nordic dining options include the Lindstrøm fine dining restaurant on Deck Nine and both Aune the main dining hall and casual dining at Fredheim on Deck Six. After-dinner drinks can be enjoyed in the Explorer Lounge with panoramic views on Deck 10. The spacious cabin suites have comfortable beds, lounge areas, generous closet space, and bathrooms. All cabins are outside and half of the accommodations have private balconies. The Aft Corner Suite offers a private hot tub on a wrap-around deck and the XL suite is a one-bedroom with a separate living room. On Deck Seven is the wellness center, a respite for guests between excursions, with a selection of salt scrubs, facials, and massages. It’s located across the hall from the gym equipped with free weights, yoga mats, and cardio machines. A running track is on Deck 11, CULTIVATING THE MIND which also serves as AND THE BODY an observation platTwo hot tubs and an form. Deck 10’s large infinity pool allow co-ed sauna boasts expedition guests to go floor-to-ceiling winfrom hot to cold ... cozy dows allowing guests cabins and calming art to enjoy Antarcticreate Nordic comfort ... ca’s epic landscapes and the sauna's as they relax in the panoramic windows warmth. Just outside allow for epic views are two hot tubs and during a soothing schvitz. an infinity pool.

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CRUISE SHIP SURPRISES There’s a world of weird and wonderful watercraft cruising our oceans. You may have heard of the world’s largest cruise ships, or maybe the fastest, but those listed below have features that make them stand out from the crowd in the most fascinating ways. by Olly Beckett

Left: Brandi Nellis/Adobe Stock Right: Ian Goodrick/Alamy Stock Photo

THINK YOU’VE SEEN IT ALL IN THE WORLD OF CRUISE? THINK AGAIN!

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Tall Twins

● Club Med 2 and Windstar’s Wind Surf are the world’s largest passenger sailing ships. They carry almost 400 guests each. Five huge masts stretch up to 262 feet high — that’s the height of a 20-story skyscraper — and supplement the power provided by diesel/electric engines. You won’t find sailors rushing around trying to control those sails, though, as they’re all powered by motor and adjusted by computer.

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03 Ice and Fire ● It could be -31°F outside with National Geographic Endurance plunging through sea ice up to 50 inches thick, while in the sauna, passengers watch the journey through uncharted waters in 175°F heat, smooth and steamy. This extraordinary vessel (and newly launched sister-ship Resolution) has an inverted bow, making it energy efficient and better able to slice through waves and ice, which means more stability and less sea spray for those on deck.

● Launched in 2002, The World has spent its life continually circling the planet, carrying permanent residents in 165 apartments and studios. Some choose to live year-round on the ship, others choose to make occasional visits to their wandering properties. The World’s itinerary is constantly changing, and its concept seems to be a popular one, with up-and-coming rival Storylines now selling residences from $616,005 aboard MV Narrative, set to launch in 2024/25

FRO M SPIES TO PENGU IN S

● MV Ushuaia wa launched in 1968 as an "ocean survey ship" before going into service for America’s National

Oceanic & Atmospheric Administration under the snappy name NOAAS Researcher (R 103). Though built with an ice-strengthened hull, it allegedly began life tracking Soviet activity off Cuba and was then kitted out to conduct oceanographic and atmospheric research before being sold to the Argentinian company Antarpply Expeditions and refitted to run Antarctica cruises.

Left: Nature Picture Library/Alamy Stock Photo Opposite: Norwegian Cruise Line (x2)

The Never-ending Cruise

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A MERICA N PRIDE ● The first American-flagged cruise ship in

nearly 50 years, Norwegian Cruise Line-owned Pride of America had to earn those Stars and Stripes by being partially built in the USA (it had to be completed in Germany) and employing a mostly U.S. crew. The hull is resplendent with iconic American images and that theme continues inside. Because it's American-flagged, this is the only ship that can offer Hawaii cruises without leaving U.S. waters.

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EARNING ITS STRIPES ● The Sea Cloud has lived many different lives. Launched

as the world’s largest sailing yacht for a Wall Street broker in 1931, it was filled with antiques and sailed as far as the Galapagos Islands. When the broker divorced his wife, she got to keep the ship, which was when it gained its current name. Passengers can still pretend they’re a 1930s mogul in the ship’s oak-paneled restaurant, housed in what was originally the salon. This historic yacht was called into service for WWII, stripped of its masts, painted gray, and fitted with weapons. This was how Sea Cloud earned the five stripes which can now be seen under the wheelhouse — one for each 6 months of service.

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Eye Spy ● Sure the view across the ocean can be breathtaking, but what about all there is to see beneath the sea? Ponant’s incredible Le Laperouse features an underwater ‘eye’ built into the hull of Deck 0, through which you can see aquatic life. Because this is a Ponant ship, you won’t experience the view from cramped conditions, but rather in a sumptuous lounge which enhances the underwater experience thanks to hydrophones transmitting the ocean’s sounds from a 3-mile radius. Ponant has recently launched Le Bougainville on which you can also find this extraordinary feature.

Left: Sea Cloud Cruises. Right, Clockwise: Royal Caribbean International, Cunard (x2)

Counting Countries ● Although Serenade of the Seas is itself a lovely ship, it’s the journey it’s embarking upon next year that provides the biggest surprise. Those who step aboard this Royal Caribbean ship in December 2023 have the choice of not disembarking for 274 nights. It’s billed as the Ultimate World Cruise and there will, of course, be many good reasons to disembark along the way, not least the opportunity to visit about one third of the world’s countries (65 in total), plus 11 World Wonders.

Inking Ship

Those who step aboard this Royal Caribbean ship in December 2023 have the choice of not disembarking for 274 nights. It’s billed as the Ultimate World Cruise.

● Virgin Voyage’s Scarlet Lady features a place for those looking for a more permanent reminder of their cruise: a tattoo parlor. Unlike in the sailors’ dives of the Bay of Biscay, the artists’ hands in the Squid Ink parlor are perfectly steady and you can choose your own art or from a book of unique Virgin Voyages designs.

KENNEL CLU B

● Undoubtedly one of the most stylish ways in which to cross the Atlantic, cruising on Cunard’s Queen Mary 2 is also popular with those relocating their lives from America to Europe (or vice versa). And, of course, many of these people also want to bring their pets along with them, which is why this ship offers kennel facilities for dogs and cats. Pampered pooches from the U.K. will be delighted to find a lamppost taken from the Cunard building in Liverpool, and furry friends from the U.S. will no doubt be attracted to the New York City fire hydrant.

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Hemis/Alamy Stock Photo

B OU T IQUE SHIP S GI V E YOU A T RIP T HE WAY YOU L IK E I T

Crowd-Free Cruising by John Roberts

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Star Clipper

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123 THREE SHIPS YOUR WAY

Observation Lounge, Silver Origin

Silversea (x3)

In a world of ever-bigger cruise ships with more and more audacious features, many world travelers still prefer a voyage designed to provide a mix of relaxation, adventure, and cultural immersion — away from the crowds. They want a boutique cruise experience during which they can craft their day their way. Fortunately, there’s a growing lineup of spectacular little vessels offering highly curated, intimate voyages. In an effort to explore the range of options, I sailed three distinct small cruise ships this year: Silversea’s Silver Origin in the Galapagos, Star Clippers’ Star Clipper in France, and Emerald Cruises’ Emerald Azzurra in the Mediterranean. None of these ships carries more than 170 people, and they all venture to small ports, visiting charming spots around the globe. You can seek out days at beaches playing in the blue waters or sitting among the locals in town squares or at pretty marinas while sipping a beer or coffee and people-watching over lunch. Or, you might have a program offering interaction with animals, challenging hikes, bike rides, or snorkeling. With the curated-cruise experience, you can enjoy your own idea of the ideal day in port.

Explorer Lounge, Silver Origin

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There were marine lizards piled up at the seashore, Sally lightfoot crabs dancing on the rocks, and flightless cormorants and Galapagos penguins splashing in the surf.

luxury suites with balconies, a large marina that makes Zodiac launching a breeze, and gourmet dining at two restaurants featuring wonderful Ecuadorian seafood specialties alongside classic favorites. With an onboard spa, fitness center, hot tub, Observation Lounge, and splendid service shipwide, this is a way to see a dream destination in complete comfort and style.

one

Sally lightfoot crabs dancing on the rocks, and flightless cormorants and Galapagos penguins splashing in the surf. The itinerary visited mostly small islands, but we also went ashore to see giant tortoises at Montemar, and an eco-resort and coffee farm on Santa Cruz Island. The Silver Origin expedition team led the program with informative talks on board, and the ship features

SILVER ORIGIN IN THE GALAPAGOS: BETTER THAN ADVERTISED Silver Origin first sailed in 2021. Built by Silversea, it offers luxe-adventure cruises in the Galapagos for up to 100 passengers per voyage. I sailed in June on a week-long voyage roundtrip from San Cristobal Island. Not many destinations are as hyped up as the Galapagos. Travelers return with amazing tales of up-close wildlife encounters. The Galapagos was everything you can imagine. The expedition was even better because of the all-inclusive luxury offered on the ship. The animals are the stars, of course, and we saw them all — up close! Blue-footed boobies, red-footed boobies, and even Nazca boobies. All the boobies! We snorkeled with sea lions and wandered paths past hundreds of nesting frigates and dozens of finches. There were marine lizards piled up at the seashore,

Albatross, Española Island, Galapagos

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STAR CLIPPER IN THE FRENCH RIVIERA: MAJESTIC SAILS AND SOAKING UP SUN

This is actual sailing on a fourmasted clipper ship. Star Clipper holds up to 170 passengers, and we sailed with just 122 others as we explored the coastal waters and small ports in the south of France. This is one of three sailing ships in the Star Clippers fleet. The line launched its first clipper ship, Star Flyer, in 1991, and boasts the largest squarerigger operating in the world, the company’s flagship, Royal Clipper. This is a cruise line built on the sailor spirit, and it gets in your blood when you cruise on Star Clipper. During my week in France, we departed Cannes in late afternoon and found ourselves in

a mix of international travelers (more German- and French-speakers than English) who were ready for a freestyle week in the sunshine and fresh air. Passengers were happy to spend their days barefoot roaming the teak decks and relaxing by the pools, and everyone gathered up top to watch the crew set the ropes and raise the sails during sailaway each day. Indeed, the sails of Star Clipper were as much an attraction as the itinerary. Cruisers eagerly lined up to pitch in and hoist them, and many of us took a turn at climbing the mast to the crow’s nest to take in the awesome views some 60 feet above the deck.

Everyone gathered up top to watch the crew set the ropes and raise the sails during sailaway each day. Indeed, the sails of Star Clipper were as much an attraction as the itinerary. We cruised to the ports of Portofino, Italy, and L’Ile Rousse, Calvi, and Plage Saint Antoine on Corsica, as well as Cavalaire sur Mer and Saint-Tropez. We tendered ashore to marinas and beaches to wander the cobblestone streets of these idyllic places, with many of them fairly crowd-free. 52

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Many of us took a turn at climbing the mast to the crow’s nest to take in the awesome views some 60 feet above the deck. The Star Clipper activities staff set up toys at the beaches or just off the side of the ship for passengers to use, and we joined others for turns at sailing, kayaking, and paddleboarding. At the beaches, there were spots for great swimming, snorkeling, or just relaxing in a lounger with a frozen cocktail or cold beer. The ship features basic cabins, with barebones amenities and one restaurant with buffet breakfasts and lunches and plated

Clockwise: Star Clippers, Image Professionals GmbH/Alamy Stock Photo; Star Clippers (x3)

Star Clipper

dinners. The food was hearty and catered more to German tastes. I’d call it adequate but not a highlight. We opted for a few meals off the ship, including a nice dinner in SaintTropez when the ship stayed late in port. The top deck areas are where you want to be. This is for true sailors, after all, and we had a great time with cruise director Carlos and musician Kirby leading theme parties, contests and dancing late into the nights.

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three

EMERALD AZZURRA IN THE MED: A BOLD LUXURY SUPERYACHT This new 100-passenger yacht is the first ocean ship for Emerald Cruises, known for its delightful river itineraries. Azzurra sails in the Caribbean, the Red Sea, and the Med, where we joined for a week-long cruise from Dubrovnik, Croatia, to Rome. I have sailed this Med itinerary a few times, and the beautiful and historic ports speak for themselves; Emerald offers a fantastic range of tours and ways to experience them. The difference here is how you get around. On Azzurra, which has a stunning profile with an eye-catching bow, you feel as if you are cruising around on your own private megayacht enjoying a taste of the lavish lifestyle with a batch of close friends.

On Azzurra, which has a stunning profile with an eyecatching bow, you feel as if you are cruising around on your own private megayacht enjoying a taste of the lavish lifestyle with a batch of close friends. Sky Bar, Emerald Azzurra

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Emerald Cruises (x3)

The seven-deck ship slices through the blue waters quietly and smoothly. It features 50 staterooms, a modern, stylish décor and open spaces for fully enjoying the outdoors. Azzurra has a marina, and when the vessel is at anchor, cruisers enjoy water sport toys like Seabobs, kayaks, and stand-up paddleboards. The Sky Deck offers a spa pool, loungers, and Sky Bar at the very top, and you’ll also love the infinity pool and the Aqua Café, serving light bites for breakfast and lunch. Pro tip: This venue offers tasty flatbread pizzas at lunch, too. The Observation Lounge offers a quiet retreat, serving as a library that leads outdoors to a viewing deck at the bow. The spacious main dining room, La Cucina, has indoor and alfresco seating, where you can enjoy all your meals and settle in for sunsets and a cocktail. Azzurra’s Amici Lounge and Bar is the main indoor gathering spot and social hub, and the ship even features amenities like a fitness center, spa, and infrared sauna. Each cruiser is unique. The great strength of boutique ships is in crafting unique experiences to suit every one of us. 

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GOOD VIBES

Getting Better All the Time From saving the beach to tracking sustainable travel, we’re making our way to a brighter future. by Alex Darlington

BALI SPA OFFERS HARMONY WITH NATURE The tourism industry continues to find ways to allow environmentally aware travelers to enjoy the wonders of Mother Earth while leaving a minimum “footprint” on our favorite destinations. Indonesia is particularly conscientious about preserving the planet while pleasing visitors. And no place is more dedicated to the all-natural idea than The Puri Dajuma Cottages and Spa in Bali. Puri Dajuma draws from its immediate surroundings to ensure that both visitors and island residents reap the benefits of their stay at the 18-cottage, family-run eco-resort. Almost all employees come from the surrounding villages. The workers are specially trained to promote community initiatives that involve working in

Indonesia

harmony with nature, and the resort management relies exclusively on service providers from the immediate area. The delicious food is prepared from seasonal products provided by local farmers and fishermen using ingredients purchased from local markets. Even the essential oils used in the spa are made from regionally grown products like coconut oil, jungle honey, lemons, cucumbers, and bananas and are skillfully blended using ancient knowledge passed down for hundreds of years — without the pollution of longdistance delivery or plastic packaging.

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[ BEST LIFE ]

REVOLUTIONARY NEW CRUISE TOOL MEASURES SUSTAINABILITY Cruise Baltic, in partnership with the Danish consulting giant COWI, has developed a brilliant method of measuring environmental sustainability which could revolutionize the world of travel. No issue is more important to the cruise industry and those who use and depend on it than the concept of “sustainable tourism” (ensuring that customers needs are met, while doing minimum harm to the Earth). Measuring how well a cruise line or destination is doing could be difficult — until now.

Clockwise opposite: Puri Dajuma Cottages and Spa (x3); bogdanserban/Adobe Stock Clockwise right: gt29/Adobe Stock, Anze/Adobe Stock, ilynx_v/Adobe Stock.

The online system, known as a “Sustainable Cruise Indicator Tool” makes it possible to measure how sustainable a particular region or cruise network is using a score from 0 to 100. Various parts of the globe can be compared using key indicators, which include things like emission reduction and making a written statement supporting sustainable travel. Cruise Baltic gives themselves an 82.2, meaning even they have some room to improve. “By developing a tool like this, we hope to encourage destinations and cruise lines to be ambitious and strive to be as sustainable as possible,” says Clause Bodker, director of Cruise Baltic.

SENEGALESE ISLANDERS PIONEER NATURAL TACTICS AGAINST BEACH EROSION Beach-lovers in the West African nation of Senegal are fighting dangerous erosion in a simple, all-natural, but effective way. These days, no one has to be told that climate change is causing sea levels to rise, devastating shorelines worldwide. Scientists with the U.N.’s global panel report that southern Senegal’s Diogue Island is being particularly hard-hit, as the out-of-control tides are causing low-lying deltas that make its coastal ecosystems vulnerable, and beaches to simply wash away with the tide. But residents of the island are determined to stop the destruction. They’re doing it by creating what are known

AFRICA Atlantic Ocean as “groynes.” They drive stakes made from locally grown trees into the sand and wrap them with palm fronds. The groynes form semipermeable barriers that trap and hold the sand in and stop the waves from carrying it out to sea. While the idea may seem crude and primitive, experts say some areas have expanded by 98 feet since 2019. The cheap, natural technique could be adapted to other beaches in danger of washing away around the globe.

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CRUISE CULTURE

An Open Smile on a Friendly Shore A Porthole Readers’ Choice Award-winning cruise director shares the real romance of cruising on The Real Love Boat. by Grant Balfour

Matt Mitcham

What makes cruise ships a perfect place for starting romance?

“I feel like people on a cruise leave their inhibitions at home,” Mitcham says. “There’s so many dramas that come with life stress and with work stress, and when you come on a cruise ship, you can be whoever you want to be! I think that’s the joy of finding love on a ship.” But despite his high-seas wisdom, Mitcham has gotten some winning advice from co-stars O’Connell and Romijn. “They told me to always talk — open communication is key — and make sure you keep an eye on the … you know, make sure the bedroom stuff stays fresh! Yeah!”

What’s the difference between Princess and Carnival? “I feel like Princess appeals to a different clientele out there, but now they’re looking to kind of mold their clientele with Carnival. Their ships are stunning now, so yeah, they’re looking for a little Gen-Z to give a really nice mix on board the ships.” How do you stay fit on board? “It’s actually easier to stay fit on board ship. It’s easier to walk up to the Lido Deck and get a salad and some protein than resisting all these takeaways you’ve got on land.” Did you give romantic advice to Rebecca and Jerry? “No! They’ve been married for 15 years! I took advice from those two!” What’s the best thing in Barcelona most first-time visitors miss out on? “You have to get the food. The paella. I’m a foodie, right? So when I go to any of these ports, I don’t want to see anybody go to McDonald’s or KFC because you’ve got to eat the local cuisine.”

“And love… won’t hurt any more.” Not if charismatic cruise director Matt Mitcham has anything to do with it. The three-time winner of the Porthole Readers’ Choice Award for Best Cruise Director (from 2018 to 2020) has brought his nautical charm to the small screen, filling the shoes of the world’s most famous cruise director, Julie, on the newest show to carry the name “The Love Boat.” Unlike its predecessors, 2022’s The Real Love Boat is non-scripted. It debuted in October and plays every Wednesday night on CBS as part of the network’s lineup of reality shows. In this new show, five couples have been looking for lasting love aboard Discovery Princess. As they cruise the Mediterranean, visiting locations like Barcelona and Istanbul, the hopeful romantics are steered by real-life Captain Paolo Arrigo in the Merrill Stubing role, and Princess Cruises’ Resident Guest Entertainer Ezra Freeman as “your bartender,” though she does get some onscreen pointers from Ted Lange, the original Isaac. The reality show even has its own answer to Vicky, originally played by Jill Whelan. Says Mitcham: “Vicky would have to be Sara — that’s Captain Paolo’s little girl. She’s a stunner.” The hosts are well-known actors (and real-life married couple) Rebecca Romijn and Jerry O’Connell, who dish out love advice — and romantic challenges — to the hopefuls on board. But Mitcham gives the guests guidance of his own, based on his many years of experience in one of the most romantic occupations of all: cruise director.

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[ BEST LIFE ]

Jerry O’Connell

Ezra Freeman

Rebecca Romijn

Captain Paolo Arrigo

The hopeful romantics are steered by real-life Captain Paolo Arrigo in the Merrill Stubing role, and Princess Cruises’ Resident Guest Entertainer Ezra Freeman as “your bartender,” though she does get some on-screen pointers from Ted Lange, the original Isaac.

WATCH NOW CLICK HERE!

Airs WEDNESDAYS on CBS ... check your local listings.

THE COUPLES

Ted Lange, the original Isaac

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LELAND & SEA

“C” Things Differently …

with Costa’s International Spirit

by Steve Leland

Steve Leland wanders the world in style. Now, he’s sailing with la dolce vita on Costa Cruises.

deck. The sight of Francois from Paris dancing alone becomes a nightly spectacle in the atrium. Felipe from Seville expounds on everything you didn’t know about Spanish flamenco over a cappuccino.

Let Yourself Go

Inhibitions disappear in this international experiential world. Strap on headphones for a silent disco night. Encouraged by an energetic animation team and an engaging DJ, you can party into the wee hours with guests that range from mid-30s to young-at-heart seniors. I was fortunate to recently experience this international approach on three of the company’s newer ships, each with a distinctive identity that reconfirmed my attitude about cruising with today’s Costa. It’s different, and that’s a good thing.

Costa Cruises (x4)

ruising under the giant blue “C” that adorns every Costa cruise ship comes as second nature to me. Having sailed for 42 years as a cruise director for Costa, it’s only natural that I developed an affinity for their uniquely Italian style of cruising. The line’s history as a Mediterranean leader has evolved with magnificent new ships and energized concepts that attract a diverse international audience. The smiling faces of crew members eager to speak English and mingling with European guests are all part of the Costa experience. Exploring the world in this multi-cultural mix you won’t be just another passenger among 3,000 other Americans; instead, you’ll enjoy a dedicated hostess assigned to a small group of English-speaking guests. Visualize initiating a hybrid English/Italian conversation with Pasquale from Rome while enjoying an Aperol spritz on

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[ BEST LIFE ]

Costa Venezia

Il Bacaro

Constructed in 2019, she initially sailed in the Far East until the pandemic dropped anchor on cruising. Fast forward to early 2022 and the ship has been repositioned to Istanbul. In the spring of 2023, parent company Carnival will reposition the ship to New York to create Costa by Carnival, a joint initiative specifically designed for the North American market that integrates Carnival’s “Choose Fun” mantra with Costa’s iconic Italian touch. Venezia displays significant flair in the public rooms with brilliant white-marble columns in the multi-story atrium, Piazza San Marco, and vibrant red colors and opulent chandeliers adorning the Teatro Rosso. Specialty restaurants serve an eclectic selection of cuisines, including the Asian Lu Hot Pot cafe, Dim Sum Noodle Bar, and a sushi bar; La Fiorentina Steakhouse; Lobster Café; and the entertaining tableside Teppanyaki. For gourmands, a Michelin-style tasting menu designed by three renowned chefs is featured in the elegant Casanova.

Art and design throughout the ship depicts Venetian scenes, including tucked-away lounges that replicate those found in St. Mark’s Square. Dine alongside a faux canal and a full-size gondola in the Canal Grande. Venetian decor surrounds the solarium pool with retractable roof. A hallway of life-sized celebrity mannequins leads to the trendy Delle Stelle Lounge with oversized white wicker seating and cabanas making it the perfect place to take in the sunsets over cocktails.

Bellavista

Costa Smeralda

One of the newer vessels in the fleet, Costa Smeralda sails the Emerald Coast in hallmark Italian style. Nothing defines it better than its centerpiece, the multi-deck Colosseo, which serves as a theater, lounge, and activity center. Eating, in the Italian way of life, is not just sustenance; it’s an international epicurean adventure carried out in four fullservice restaurants as well as the buffet style Ristorante La Sagra dei Sapporo, “the festival of flavors.”

Laboratorio Del Gusto

The trend of specialtyrestaurant dining carries through several venues but gastronomy hounds will really relish the opportunity to be tutored by one of the ship’s celebrated chefs as you prepare culinary creations in the high-tech kitchen of the Laboratorio Del Gusto as well.

The trend of specialty-restaurant dining carries through several venues but gastronomy hounds will really relish the opportunity to be tutored by one of the ship’s celebrated chefs as you prepare culinary creations in the high-tech kitchen of the Laboratorio Del Gusto, followed by a dining extravaganza in the exquisite setting of this intimate restaurant. Il Bacaro is an upscale Italian version of Spain’s tapas-bar concept. Sushi lovers will relish the allyou-can-eat selections from the bounty of the sea at Sushino. The exclusive restaurant Bellavista features a premium menu and wine list highlighted by intimate personal service. Archipelago explores three differing tasting menus, each curated by a different renowned chef, intended to capture the spirit of the cruise itinerary. Tutti a Tavola is for families with children who wish to dine together in a casual setting. The outdoor Salty Beach Street Food kiosk offers light bites for noshing poolside. Innovative café stations offer opportunities to create custom-made poke bowls or healthy wraps. As would be expected, Costa offers a journey into Italian authenticity in the Pizzeria Pummid’oro, with freshly prepared pizzas and trattoria-influenced pastas.

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LELAND & SEA

[ BEST LIFE ]

Costa Toscana

As the newest ship in the fleet, this beautiful masterpiece of ship design offers all of the iconic features and amenities found in the Costa sisterhood but on a grander scale. The color scheme is more playful and trendy accoutrements furnish the spacious lounges and public areas. Make no mistake, Toscana is big, VERY big! Once I set aside my personal, flawed aversion to mega-ships, I developed a deep appreciation for the plethora of attractions, pools, showrooms, and lounges. In spite of a 6,600-passenger capacity, there’s no shortage of space. Encircling the entire ship, the Infinity Walk offers sea views graced with lounge chairs, sofas, and tables with a secluded, adult-only section offering soul-soothing solace. For families, the Squok Club fulfills a child’s dreams of sailing the ocean. A dedicated deck of facilities provides childcare and daily organized activities, along with a special Squok menu designed especially for young ones. Costa has increased its emphasis on engaging entertainment aboard Toscana. Evenings are packed with creatively choreographed shows in the Poltrona Frau Arena, cirque-style performances and concerts in the grandiose Colosseo, and extremely talented musicians performing all genres of music in the numerous lounges. Participate in game shows, fly down twisting water flumes in the aqua park, challenge Lady Luck in the casino, or work out in the gym. There’s no shortage of things to do. Of course, visiting the intriguing ports of Spain or the French and Italian Rivieras is an important element of cruising, but the onboard Solemio Spa, one of the largest at sea, offers an opportunity to reflect on things that are important … namely yourself. Sixteen trained therapists offer the latest techniques in massages and facial treatments. The Thermal Wellness Suite — with its bubbling, mineral-enriched thalassotherapy pool, heated loungers, Hammam steam room, dry sauna, Himalayan salt room and even a snow room — provides a blissful afternoon of personal pampering. The round-trip 7-day itinerary allows for the choice of embarkation in Marseille, Valencia, Rome, or Naples making for convenient regional pre- or post-cruise vacation planning. Regardless of where you begin, it’s an international adventure in a world of its own. Ciao!

Costa Cruises (x3)

The color scheme is more playful and trendy accoutrements furnish the spacious lounges and public areas.

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PERSONAL TOUCH

[ BEST LIFE ]

Beneath the Waves, Fearlessly Dr. Austin Gallagher stands up for marine life — by diving deep. by Alex Darlington

Austin Gallagher (x2)

harks aren’t the most cuddly and lovable creatures on the planet. But they’ve got at least one loyal, dedicated pal: Dr. Austin Gallagher. And they could do worse. Gallagher, an award-winning marine biologist and environmentalist, has published more than 100 peer-reviewed articles in prestigious scientific journals. His research on these mysterious, misunderstood denizens of the deep has earned him countless honors including The Fullbright Distinguished Scholar Award. His writings have been — and are being — applied to policies that have protected not only sharks, but also other threatened marine animals. But Gallagher isn’t some bookish scientist who hangs out in laboratories all day. He’s a National Geographic Explorer and Fellow of the Explorer’s Club, and is often seen on Discovery Channel’s “Shark Week,” where he presents empirical biological reporting in a colorful and entertaining way. He’s given a well-received TED talk and speaks at venues around the world. But one of his most significant contributions to the environment is his founding of the highly respected non-profit research institute Beneath the Waves, which works on critical ocean-conservation projects worldwide. Gallagher heads up the organization’s impressive research team which includes such experts on marine biology as Dr. Brenden Shea, Dr. Brennan Phillips, and Dr. Nicholas Payne.

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YACHT LIFE

Mansions on the Water These luxury liveaboards combine all the comforts of home with all the adventure of an ocean-crossing and all the beauty of the beach. by Grant Balfour

nyone who has spent time aboard a ship has daydreamed about what it must be like to live there year-round. Sure, there are some lifelong cruise fanatics who manage to spend their retirement on a non-stop cruise. But others choose a more personal path, pulling up stakes on land to set down roots somewhere that floats. Houseboat living isn’t just for beach bums and wharf rats. In port cities and lakefronts around the world, you can find floating homes every bit as grandiose as the most luxurious country estates. Only the view is far wetter. Here are some of Porthole’s favorites.

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[ BEST LIFE ]

“43 ISSAQUAH DOCK” Sausalito, California In a town famous for its dockside life, this modern floating home stands out. It has artistically designed railings, vaulted ceilings, wooden floors, and, in the main level, an open floor plan that gives way to a deck and floating dock. The third story consists of a large loft that could serve as an office, a family room, or a spacious third bedroom with views of the community lagoon, Angel Island, and, in the distance, the San Francisco skyline.

“QUEEN OF LAKE UNION” Fremont, Seattle, WA This 4,850-squarefoot dream home anchored underneath Seattle’s Aurora Bridge was modeled after the iconic Gamble House in Pasadena, California. With three bedrooms, three bathrooms (including a jetted bath) and several rooms with wallto-wall windows, the Queen offers a balance between cozy living and spectacular views.

“ANTJE”

LEFT: Jay Kipp (x4), RIGHT, CLOCKWISE: Compass/Steve Sekhon, RiverHomes (x3)

Cheyne Walk, London

Cheyne Walk, Chelsea, SW10

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The barges of the Thames have a storied history, and this home highlights the best of it. The address is an upscale part of the city, but it’s really the open floor plan with the emphasis on natural light that makes this three-bed, two-bath home seem so elevated. And then there are the city views from the open-air lounge and sun deck.

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YACHT LIFE

[ BEST LIFE ]

“THE FLOATING SEAHORSE VILLAS” Heart of Europe, The World, Dubai

The Heeart of Europe (x3)

Advertised as “the world’s first floating villas,” these unique resort residences have a sea-level deck and upper-level sundeck with Jacuzzi and outdoor dining across from the Dubai skyline. The living quarters, though, are located under the waterline. Picture windows look out on teeming schools of fish and the tranquil beauty of the undersea world. https://thoe.com/ projects/ 

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SAIL AWAY

[ BEST LIFE ]

Cruise A laska!

Hong Kong on Seabourn

l ex t F a l n n a Ja p

Travel wishes for the new year. We've seen so many dream destinations in 2022, we could barely wish for anything more. But a new year is coming, and with that, 12 more months of places we could be ... from Tahiti to Tokyo, Ketchikan to Hong Kong, Montenegro to the Maldives. The best trip is always the one you're about to take next, so here's our wish for you: May 2023 be filled with new best trips for all our readers!

# F ou r Seaso ns Maldives . .

Clockwise from top: sodawhiskey/Adobe Stock, Seabourn, Four Seasons Hotels and Resorts, Roger Pimenta/Scenic, f11photo/Adobe Stock, BlueOrange Studio/Adobe Stock

ta ke a wa rm win te r ge ta w a y!

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11/22/21

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Best North American Home Port

2016

2019

Cruise Critic

CMY

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10/19/22 10:12 AM